I machined flats on my bars. Before I did that, I had a lot of trouble removing the bar from the head. The setscrew raised a small burr, and I couldn't pull the burr past the setscrew holes.
Dave Breggin This is an excellent comment I agree that flat Set screws Can be problematic to the move after mushrooming from the radius of the cutter This is an excellent reason to put flats on the bars never thought of it should’ve added it to the video Thanks for your comment dave
Great video! I noticed on the first setup that you were boring to a shoulder instead of thru. Do you have any advice on reducing/eliminating the ridges that are left on the bottom of that bore? You can see them on the "face" of the external setup. If it were a lathe, you would just move your cross feed to face them off, but that doesn't work on a mill. Again, great video!
If I needed to get a good finish on the bottom of a counterbore, I would set my speed and feet a little bit faster When I bottom out, I would hold my feet on the bottom face for at least five or six passes, then stop the machine and move the table away and lift up the boring bar This generally works well It is also possible to Polish boar, which I don’t have a video on how to take a rod with a slit in the side and in the bottom and you insert a 3M Brillo pad or polishing pad and basically bore with a polishing pad. This is a little bit advanced, and is a little bit more risky
Great video. I learned something from it. One thing I learned about a year ago is when you run the spindle in reverse, as in external boring, some boring heads are threaded on to the spindle adapter. When you run the machine in reverse the boring head can come un-screwed. Ask me how I know this. Pretty messy. Thanks for your work.
You’re right that can happen If you know it’s a possibility it’s easier to avoid Thanks for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment much appreciated Ray
I learned the same lesson. What I ended up doing is buying a left hand lathe tool, so it has the cutter on the opposite side and you run the motor in the normal direction which keeps the arbor from unscrewing.
Would have been wise to mention....Take care running the boring head in reverse for the external setup. It's possible to unthread the head off the arbor. A better option would have been to use a LH boring bar and run the head in forward.
I really don’t know where to start I never ran a lathe or a mill so I don’t even know how to turn them on what’s dangerous to do with them etc. I think what would be helpful for me is a real good video on safety for Mills and lathes. And then a video on a progression of skills that you can develop by building something that you can use to move on to more difficult projects. Thank you for answering me and trying to help
@@shopandmath on a mill Sir..to be specific how to rebore engine cylinders if you may a complete tutorial from measurement to setups and operation of entire boring procedures I'm sure we your subscribers will be glad like to learn.
was the boring head a direct reading- .001 per division is diameter? is the .001 on radius type adequate? i ordered on from msc and they sent the .001 on radius type- can you split a division to move .0005?
the diameter or radius is just space on the dial what you need to look for is smoothness of the mechanism and rigidity and firm locking without that you will not have repeatability I hope that this helped Ray
Hi could u pls correct me if I'm wrong for my feed rate calculation I use when I rough bores using milling machine exm. 200 RPM For single rough boring bar 200×.005=feed and for twin rough boring bar 200×.010=feed Other words ×2 the feed per tooth for twin boring bars pls correct me if this is not the way feed suppose to be when boring with single and twin rough boring bar thx.
if I understand the question you are asking is single tip 200 RPM and feed 0.005 per rev is the save amount of material removed as 2 tipped 180 degrees from each other spinning at 200 rpm and 0.01 feed will have the same chip per tooth yes
Yeah so if it's only single tip boring bar the feed should be 200×.005=1 and with twin bars 200×.010=2 this way I can cut time in half using twin bars feed for roughing
Why don't I ever see people taking a flat bar stock, too align boring tools in their downward position? Or a cut angled stock, for the side mounted position for that matter. You have a perfectly good and usable straight edge, going along the boring bar axis side mount option. Put the flat bar against the edge of the boring bar, and the lower cutting edge of the boring tool. It should form an angle similar too \. No need to squint your eyes going back and forth.
I machined flats on my bars. Before I did that, I had a lot of trouble removing the bar from the head. The setscrew raised a small burr, and I couldn't pull the burr past the setscrew holes.
Dave Breggin
This is an excellent comment
I agree that flat Set screws
Can be problematic to the move after mushrooming from the radius of the cutter
This is an excellent reason to put flats on the bars never thought of it should’ve added it to the video
Thanks for your comment dave
Good starter video for me. Watching from North Bay Ontario, Canada.
thank you
and thank you for taking the tome to comment
Ray
Love it a now i know i need a boring head thanks you cleared up all my questions
Thanks Ray.
Thanks, I've run a wood products manufacturing operation for a long time. I know all about what employees can do to equipment!!!
Great video!
I noticed on the first setup that you were boring to a shoulder instead of thru. Do you have any advice on reducing/eliminating the ridges that are left on the bottom of that bore? You can see them on the "face" of the external setup. If it were a lathe, you would just move your cross feed to face them off, but that doesn't work on a mill.
Again, great video!
If I needed to get a good finish on the bottom of a counterbore, I would set my speed and feet a little bit faster
When I bottom out, I would hold my feet on the bottom face for at least five or six passes, then stop the machine and move the table away and lift up the boring bar
This generally works well
It is also possible to Polish boar, which I don’t have a video on how to take a rod with a slit in the side and in the bottom and you insert a 3M Brillo pad or polishing pad and basically bore with a polishing pad. This is a little bit advanced, and is a little bit more risky
@@shopandmath Thank you! I never thought of polishing a bore like that. If you ever did a video on that, I'd watch the heck out of it.
Great video. I learned something from it. One thing I learned about a year ago is when you run the spindle in reverse, as in external boring, some boring heads are threaded on to the spindle adapter. When you run the machine in reverse the boring head can come un-screwed. Ask me how I know this. Pretty messy.
Thanks for your work.
You’re right that can happen
If you know it’s a possibility it’s easier to avoid
Thanks for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment much appreciated
Ray
I learned the same lesson. What I ended up doing is buying a left hand lathe tool, so it has the cutter on the opposite side and you run the motor in the normal direction which keeps the arbor from unscrewing.
Would have been wise to mention....Take care running the boring head in reverse for the external setup. It's possible to unthread the head off the arbor. A better option would have been to use a LH boring bar and run the head in forward.
thank you this was an oversight on my part
Good Video
I liked to take apart the Criterion Head and apply fine grease to the precision threads.
Keep coolant out.
Great tip!
Thank you for sharing
Thanks I am 70 years old and have decided to start this as a hobby. Any suggestion on a RUclips video of lathe safety and beginner lessons
tell what you are looking for and I might make it
I really don’t know where to start I never ran a lathe or a mill so I don’t even know how to turn them on what’s dangerous to do with them etc. I think what would be helpful for me is a real good video on safety for Mills and lathes. And then a video on a progression of skills that you can develop by building something that you can use to move on to more difficult projects. Thank you for answering me and trying to help
@@santopezzotti730 I recommend taking a machine shop class at a local community college for any beginner.
Maybe mention any tricks like using it to be a ball turner in a lathe, helps think outside of the box..
Sir can you please do a tutorial on the steps and procedures and setups for boring cylinders.?Thankyou.
in a lathe or mill ?
@@shopandmath on a mill Sir..to be specific how to rebore engine cylinders if you may a complete tutorial from measurement to setups and operation of entire boring procedures I'm sure we your subscribers will be glad like to learn.
@@Mewanrahnam575
I will keep that in mind for a future video
was the boring head a direct reading- .001 per division is diameter? is the .001 on radius type adequate? i ordered on from msc and they sent the .001 on radius type- can you split a division to move .0005?
the diameter or radius is just space on the dial
what you need to look for is smoothness of the mechanism and rigidity and firm locking
without that you will not have repeatability
I hope that this helped
Ray
@@shopandmath ok, thanks
Hi could u pls correct me if I'm wrong for my feed rate calculation I use when I rough bores using milling machine exm.
200 RPM
For single rough boring bar 200×.005=feed and for twin rough boring bar 200×.010=feed
Other words ×2 the feed per tooth for twin boring bars pls correct me if this is not the way feed suppose to be when boring with single and twin rough boring bar thx.
if I understand the question
you are asking is single tip 200 RPM and feed 0.005 per rev is the save amount of material removed as 2 tipped 180 degrees from each other spinning at 200 rpm and 0.01 feed
will have the same chip per tooth
yes
Yeah so if it's only single tip boring bar the feed should be 200×.005=1 and with twin bars 200×.010=2 this way I can cut time in half using twin bars feed for roughing
"Keep in mind, this kind of machine isnt that rigid" As I look over at my Grizzly g0704.. tears..
I don’t recommend doing the external boring. It’s best to be done on a CNC machine.
Why don't I ever see people taking a flat bar stock, too align boring tools in their downward position? Or a cut angled stock, for the side mounted position for that matter.
You have a perfectly good and usable straight edge, going along the boring bar axis side mount option. Put the flat bar against the edge of the boring bar, and the lower cutting edge of the boring tool. It should form an angle similar too \. No need to squint your eyes going back and forth.
Lots of people have boring heads, because they were not set up properly... 😉🤣 Wrong nature, wrong nurture...
thank you for your funny comment
Ray