Good stuff Joe! Back when moldmakers used rotary cross slides, I was taught to find the center of rotation by placing a magnet base and indicator on the turntable and then indicate a pin held in the spindle. This method produces the true center of rotation, as opposed to relying on the accuracy of the center hole which may be obscured by a cross slide or fixture plate. An easy way to save time (and a lot of cranking) is to disengage the worm gear and spin the turntable by hand for this operation.
Joe, I found your channel by accident and am glad I did. I am a gunsmith , and when I went to school for it ,we did have a class for machining of course. But, there were things we were not taught . You have broadened my knowledge that I can use to do more custom work and also to make and improve tools. Thank you for sharing your experience.
In just a few seconds you hammered the reason I built a small shop to do machining. Having done software and related engineering/science pursuits most of my life - much of which becomes ephemeral pretty quick (and no one would believe you or care if you told them your stuff was making their phone work), I felt a need to have some things I could point to and say "I did that". Even if no one else cares, I still do. Bingo.
Joe thank you so much for these videos. I have the same rotary table and it’s really confusing for an old grunt. I’ve learned so much from you. Thank you again!
Great video Joe. Would have messed up the first part without the, (keep the center line) lesson. As always thanks for your great teachings. You are making many of us better machinist.
Home machinist and always had trouble with my rotary table . Now I understand what I was doing wrong . Great video give use more and thanks for keeping simple for us self learners
Joe, thank you for video. I am looking forward to this series of videos. I have only used my table in the flat position on the mill but would love to see some information about using it in the vertical position.
Indicate the flat edge, then turn your slots until they line up on x axis and put your own marker where ever the 0 is. Try to indicate the slots and get that zero mark where it is convenient for you. Just like those pcs of tape, but mark it permanently or drill and tap a hole directly under the zero, and move that adjustable marker to that position. I hope I said it right, or I’d have to draw pics. I enjoy your teaching and work. I started machining in the early 70’s like you. My expertise is mainly milling on large horizontal boring mills, huge planer type mills, and jig bore machines, and larger lathes. I did start in some small shops on Bridgeport’s and lathes too. Keep on teaching my friend, I do learn some nice tidbits here and there.
Joe, I am looking forward to the this series - A LOT. The only other one I have seen on rotary table is Mr Pete, but that was years ago. I don't know why, but most creators just don't use a rotary table that I have seen. Thanks for the series !
Having a CNC mill, I don't use this one very often. But my cannon wheels just scream...Dont use the CNC. Good timing to shoot some material for you guys.
Very timely, I need a rotary table for a job I’ve committed to have done by the end of the month. I wouldn’t have thought to look for the zero orientation. I hope I can find one with the tee slots in the perpendicular orientation. Thanks for yet another awesome tutorial.
thanks for describing the offset of half the diameter of the cutter needing to be taken off again before doing a radius, as in centre of the cutter needing to be level with the centre of the table because that little gem would have me confused 👍
Great video- loved the tip about moving in half the diameter of the cutter; that didn't naturally occur to me. I would love to see an explanation for using the rotary table to make a "lightbulb" shape. Basically a circle with a handle on it.
Yo, Joe!... I had the same concern [6:00 mark] ie; slots not aligned with the axis of the table. It bugged me so much, I re-located the pointer. Now I smile! Thx again for your content.
Hi Joe. I bet you could eliminate the 12 degree offset between the T-slots and the zero degree mark on the dial. You could disassembe the table and shift the clocking of the worm gear on the dial by three teeth, with respect to the gears on the table. I bet it was not properly assembled in the first place. 4 degrees on the dial (worm gear) times three teeth on the table will give you the twelve degrees.... Thanks for another good video!
nice math but i believe the marks are on the side of the table (which has the t-slots). if one could only realign the indicator on the base or the table had a movable marking ring.....
VERY NICE! It just hit me as I watched your video - I've been thinking on how to make wood wheels for my own cannon build. Now my lathe (unimat SL1000) holds up to 2" of work - and the wheels need to be 3" or so - but I do have a 3" rotary table... err..."light bulb"! That is going to be shear FUN! Thank you for sharing the wonderful tips and ideas. Love your work - It's legant, very accurate and smart... what else can one ask for? Saar
???? Mount the rotary table on an angle plate mounted to the top slide (or cross slide) and use a milling cutter in a headstock collet to mill the outside of your wheels?
I was given a John Stevens Inc. 18" rotary table and that thing is a beast. You aren't kidding these things can weigh a ton. It's quite a bit bigger than I'll ever need. I may look for a smaller one, but I'll wait until I need one for sure.
@@joepie221 yeah it definitely is, I have a hyd lift arm on the corner of my work bench and with that I can put it on my cart to get it to the mill. There was a time I could lift it on the mill by myself, but this cancer crap has destroyed my body and what strength I used to have, so I just get creative to move heavy stuff.
Very Informative video Joe very clear and to the point. I'm kind of old school, I like using the rotary table as much as I can or when I can, this way it will keep your mind thinking I use an advanced cross slide rotary table, so I can unusually do some unusual stuff on a mill. Yes, a CNC is faster, but like I said I'm old school . I usually put the rotary table's center at 0,0 on the DRO's Absolute, and the normal X,Y movements on Incremental, this way you can always jump right back to the center of the rotary whenever you need to. Sorry for the long-winded message Machining has been a passion of mine for years, and once I get started I have a tough time stopping.
just love what you do. clear as mud. well not really. from an old grader driver, this is relevant in road work or you can't do anything but go straight! , maybe a poor choice of word these days.
Good advice I got as an apprentice was to centre the part on the table off the mill, then centre the spindle to the part, rather than picking up on the table, then tapping the part true while the table is on the mill. It's a lot easier. I was also taught to rough out slots and arcs by plunging every 1°, then take a finish pass, to avoid having the table/part shift under the cutting forces.
Thanks Joe - 90% clear. Just a dummy question- what are the additional two marks to the left and right of zero and 60 ......? Everything else got through my thick skull on the first pass. That is a real accomplishment Joe! LOL! _Dan_
Notice that there are always *two* pairs of lines lined up when you're using the vernier if you have the extra lines. It's a lot easier to be sure you're right on the line that way, and not being fooled by parallax (the angle you're viewing the scale from).
Haha! I just went from "Yeah, yeah, I already know how to use a rotary table and I don't have no time to watch no video today" to "Oh! So THAT's how the seconds calculation works!" (that I had never bothered to really understand); and then to "Oh yeah, so THAT must be why the radius of that part was mysteriously slightly larger than it should've been!" (when I had never thought about the need to re-establish the radius over the zero between a linear cut and a radius cut. Just like you show, if you don't, your "new" radius of tool edge to part center is related to the length of the hypotenuse of a triangle whose adjacent side is the radius you 'want' and whose opposite side is the radius of the endmill. You really could do the trig and see *exactly* how many mils you'd be off if you forget). Thanks for another great video that has (once again) made me slightly less dumb. :-)
Once again some great educational content. I just got one question to the bonus part of the video... Is the GoPro support made of some commercial available coolant hose or did you manufacture these hose segments by yourself.
Excellent video Sir. I’m in for the rotary table series. Question, are you going to show something with a surface grinder and rotary table. Not sure if it’s practical or not. I just have some round pieces I would like to play with on the surface grinder in practice servicing them similar to a fly wheel. I’m only a beginner in machining so don’t laugh too hard. Most likely have to cover the rotary table to keep out the grit Only an idea Joe. Thank you so much for sharing You are appreciated.👍👍👍
Happy New Year Amigo!! Joe, could you possibly do a instead and outs, do's and don'ts on that brown and sharpe test indicator one day? I think that would be a great way to cover error on how different angles of contact can have some cosine error. Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for covering the rotary table. I am toying with the idea of getting a 6" table that includes index wheels. It would be nice if you could cover using those attachments. I would appreciate a video for typical setups and a video covering just the math for converting back and forth from degrees to minutes as well. I'm not sure why, but it seems all tables have a 90:1 ratio, forcing you into minutes and seconds of arc (most drawings I have seen use degrees). Sherline has nice 4" table (a bit small though) that has a 72:1 ratio. One turn is 5 degrees. It uses a 0-50 wheel where each mark is 1/10 degree. That would seem to be the perfect ratio for a rotary table. If you really wanted, you could add a verier to 0.01 degree resolution. Thanks again and keep up the great videos.
You'll feel better about it if you do make it operable joe! and it would be cool to do the due diligence of the details that go into getting it to work. besides the noise if fun !
Nice video Joe! Did you know that Phase II has an adapter kit for their rotary table converting the hand wheel to a dividing head style? I have one for my 8".
@@joepie221 You're welcome. They also sell a full size diameter plate that has a center locating pin. I machined mine to accept all of my lathe chucks.
Many thanks Joe, I've had a 10" rotary table a few years but never come close to using it anywhere near it's potential. Only ever used it for basic (table scale) degree hole making. (just like the 4" Made in India I had before it) I knew it had vernier scale for minutes but the hand-wheel markings always confused me (1,2,3,0?) Watching video and it makes super easy sense. With quadrant 'exercise' oops, I'm guilty of remembering tool offset one direction but not the other. I think I may now be ready to try some of the projects I didn't know how to divide up accurately.
Gday Joe, have you thought ( if you already haven't) about making a new location for the adjustable zero plate so that the slots are perpendicular to the table. Cheers Jason
Awesome content. The locating of parts onto the rotary table will be very helpful, as I haven't seen any one else make a multi part series just on this topic. Thanks.
To me degrees, minutes, seconds makes as much sense as pounds, shillings, pence. Someday I will make a new dial in decimal degrees. Dyslexics of the world untie!
If you think about a single degree as one complete 360 degree sweep of a second hand on a clock face, things may start to get clearer. Just pretend, one degree = one hour. For every degree, there are 60 minutes. If you could have a really big clock face and fit 60 lines in between each of those 60 minute lines, you would now have the seconds. 60 seconds to every minute. Everything is just a smaller part of the group before it. Just like telling time. Decimal angles can get confusing and will always need conversion before a machine can be adjusted to position correctly. The error is usually in the interpretation. 20.3 degrees, is not 20 degrees, 3 minutes. Hows that for a clear explanation??
When you made the slot wider, the ends of the slot would not be parallel with the sides of the part but would follow the radius line from the center of the rotary table, correct? How would you make it parallel with the straight sides of the part? Great videos, by the way. Thanks Joe.
Thats a common misconception. Use the X and Y cranks on the mill to keep the slots parallel to the part sides. Just be sure to get the part back to zero, and go at it like any other vertical or horizontal slot. Then use the rotary to connect everything.
Joe, you are the ONE-STOP-SHOP for all things machining info! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us that are still learning the ins and outs of proper machining!
Hi Joe, I sincerely appreciate your taking the time to explain the nuances of degrees, minutes, and seconds. I haven't worked with these measurement units since school so the refresher is appreciated!
I plan to build a shop hoist (A-frame) to lift things like this onto the mill so I don't hurt myself or drop and damage these expensive things. The vice and materials can easily get too heavy to safely lift. Likewise with larger lathe chucks and bigger shafts. I'm not getting any younger. Looking forward to the next vids.
Barry Gerbracht None of us are. If you figure that out, let us know:) All I did was make/fab/weld up a tool cart for the heavier stuff and lower the table of the mill to height and lock the wheels and slide it over. Teflon or any kind of high density plastic works great. I have a hydraulic hoist to lift the heavier stuff onto the table. Obviously It needs to be not top heavy. I have the lower shelves with enough items to keep it in check. It obviously can then be rolled out of the way and allow more room for work space that’s non confining.
Hey Joe, I love your videos and have been following for a while. I have been doing machine work for years and am not at your level by any means but am always interested in doing things on a manual mill. I have both manual and CNC but always wonder how they did things in the old days. I have been playing around with building a cycloid drive and have no problem making the cycloid on the CNC mill with the part being designed in Solidworks. Was wondering if you had any insight on how they might have done these in the old days with out CNC. Possibly some sort of rotary table setup??? Thanks!
Hey Joe love your videos they have been very helpful to guy who pretends to be a machinist.......I ve got probably a stupid question for you.....I have the same rotary table as you ) phase 2 10 inch) what would you use the morse taper hole in the middle for? Is it just for centering the table?
@@joepie221 I have put 3MT drill chuck in it, and used it to cut slots in spur rowels. Probably not what you would do, but worked rally well for me. Love your videos, Thanks for the effort to teach.
Hey west Weld ,I use mine for a quick alignment of a 3 jaw chuck. Slide the chuck on add fixings , place taper with additional parallel length say a lathe tail stock alignment tool tighten the chuck to the taper tool and tighten the chuck fixings. and wallah centered chuck.
@@joepie221 Hi Joe, I have a cheapo Chinese rotary table with an MT2 hole down the centre.....And I'm currently making a 1" ID clamp out of a 1.5" x 2" piece of 6mm cold rolled MS. This is to secure the slide of a digital scale to the lathe tailstock barrel to give me DRO on its travel. I have a damaged memory and am so fed up with getting lost trying to remember how many turns I've turned the handle on the 8TPI screw! So far, I've machined the ID on the lathe in the 4 jaw chuck, and have a blank MT2 arbor with a 1.5" end. I'd previously used it for something or other, so it already had a clamp washer and 8mm thread. So today I machined a 1" boss on it, and installed it on the rotary table with a small drawbolt up the bottom. I centred the 1" boss OD to the mill spindle just as per your video and have rough sawn the bulk of the waste out of the clamp workpiece and mounted it on the arbor. I'm now just trawling your videos for machining tips when using a rotary table. But hopefully from my description, you can imagine what my workpiece looks like, and I'm thinking an MT centre bore seems perfect for tasks such as this where 360 degree machining of a perimeter is needed ....mostly 1/4" wide strap, but with an 'excursion' on the X & Y axes to do the lugs for the clamp bolt, and DRO slide attach point. Like you say...lots of maths & dimensions, so with my bad memory.....one slip up and it's a scrap bin filler! But I've done one of your great tips and put a sharpie mark on the X & Y carriages for the centre point, so if I get lost, I can quickly get back to a good reference point. So West Weld......for this sort of task I think the MT bore is good to have, otherwise I'd have to mount a chuck on the rotary table, use the inner jaws to hold the workpiece, and it all 'wedding cake layers' up to leave no Z height left on the mill to get a cutter in! BTW I'd also previously made a short MT2 plug, with a centre drilled top, so can use this to quickly centre the table to the mill spindle. Couldn't do that today because I had to tighten the drawbolt on my arbor BEFORE mounting the rotary table on the mill table. Stay safe everyone. Cheers, Allan
Not the most rigid setup, but it worked out pretty well on my little mill until I started printing gears. The cut gears are still better, but printing takes less work. www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?338827-Do-it-myself-focus-gears
I just recently got a rotary table and just stumbled onto this video so it was very interesting to me thanks again you are my go to youtube channel for machining info before I check any others out
One fix I found for helping with chatter in my rotary table is using heavy lucas oil in the perimeter bearing surface. It produces a dampening effect that cuts down on chatter. That's weird about the offset on your rotary table. I have a 4 slot and the 0 degree lines up when the slots are parallel with the ways. Cool camera mount, that would be great for coolant also.
Those things are heavy, and I hated weighing my mill table down, so I rigged springs from the ceiling to relieve it some. Desperate and goofy, but it worked better than it sounds.
BRASS CANON..... yeah we know , we only been waiting 2 years . :))) I Just bought myself a rotary table so I will be watching these videos with eagerness. Thanks.
Thank you! I have learned so much from you. You and Mr Pete are the best teachers on RUclips.
Good stuff Joe! Back when moldmakers used rotary cross slides, I was taught to find the center of rotation by placing a magnet base and indicator on the turntable and then indicate a pin held in the spindle. This method produces the true center of rotation, as opposed to relying on the accuracy of the center hole which may be obscured by a cross slide or fixture plate. An easy way to save time (and a lot of cranking) is to disengage the worm gear and spin the turntable by hand for this operation.
Thats a great tip, ill probably do that going forward!
I'll show that in an upcoming video. It does establish true rotation if the hole is out. Excellent comment.
Joe....having spent 40 years as an engraver and now doing machining....i find your vids very interesting and informative.....keep up the good work
Joe, I found your channel by accident and am glad I did. I am a gunsmith , and when I went to school for it ,we did have a class for machining of course. But, there were things we were not taught . You have broadened my knowledge that I can use to do more custom work and also to make and improve tools. Thank you for sharing your experience.
In just a few seconds you hammered the reason I built a small shop to do machining. Having done software and related engineering/science pursuits most of my life - much of which becomes ephemeral pretty quick (and no one would believe you or care if you told them your stuff was making their phone work), I felt a need to have some things I could point to and say "I did that". Even if no one else cares, I still do. Bingo.
You get it.
Nice shot of the dial, thank you for taking the time to set it up. It made your explanation very good.
I lost count of how many useful details you squeezed into this one, great job Joe, I'm really looking forward to the rest of this series!
Joe thank you so much for these videos. I have the same rotary table and it’s really confusing for an old grunt. I’ve learned so much from you. Thank you again!
This Dude is a absolute genius! I learn so much from him. Thanks Joe!
Great video Joe. Would have messed up the first part without the, (keep the center line) lesson. As always thanks for your great teachings. You are making many of us better machinist.
This is all new to me and something I have always wanted to learn more about, starting with the basics thank you Joe.
Joe Pie... knocking it out of the park... year after year!
@joepieczynski great explanation of the degrees,minutes, seconds. I understand it now . thanx
You demonstrated and spoke, I learned. Thank you very much.
Got more coming. It gets better.
Home machinist and always had trouble with my rotary table . Now I understand what I was doing wrong . Great video give use more and thanks for keeping simple for us self learners
I'm looking forward to getting stuck into to this series with you Joe on Rotary Tables.
Great stuff Joe, always enjoy your "no nonsense" explanations. Best wishes from the UK.
Thanks man.you just keep dropping little gems for helping me remember/understand
Thanks for watching.
I cannot believe I have only just discovered this channel. Fantastic !
Thanks. I hoped I earned a subscription.
Absolutely
I have one as a hobbyist, used on my mill drill. You certainly have cleared up some of the features and use of the rotary table.
Joe, thank you for video. I am looking forward to this series of videos. I have only used my table in the flat position on the mill but would love to see some information about using it in the vertical position.
Thank you for all your videos and the time you put in to explanation.
Greetings from Sweden
Thanks for checking in.
Indicate the flat edge, then turn your slots until they line up on x axis and put your own marker where ever the 0 is. Try to indicate the slots and get that zero mark where it is convenient for you. Just like those pcs of tape, but mark it permanently or drill and tap a hole directly under the zero, and move that adjustable marker to that position.
I hope I said it right, or I’d have to draw pics. I enjoy your teaching and work. I started machining in the early 70’s like you. My expertise is mainly milling on large horizontal boring mills, huge planer type mills, and jig bore machines, and larger lathes. I did start in some small shops on Bridgeport’s and lathes too. Keep on teaching my friend, I do learn some nice tidbits here and there.
I made a new offset index plate. Problem solved.
Joe, I am looking forward to the this series - A LOT. The only other one I have seen on rotary table is Mr Pete, but that was years ago. I don't know why, but most creators just don't use a rotary table that I have seen. Thanks for the series !
Having a CNC mill, I don't use this one very often. But my cannon wheels just scream...Dont use the CNC. Good timing to shoot some material for you guys.
Very timely, I need a rotary table for a job I’ve committed to have done by the end of the month. I wouldn’t have thought to look for the zero orientation. I hope I can find one with the tee slots in the perpendicular orientation.
Thanks for yet another awesome tutorial.
They may have done that so you can use the vertical real estate for pins and screws in a fixture plate ???
thanks for describing the offset of half the diameter of the cutter needing to be taken off again before doing a radius, as in centre of the cutter needing to be level with the centre of the table because that little gem would have me confused 👍
Can't wait to start using the rotary table next semester! Joe you are the best!
Great video thanks
Would love to see in the next video some jigs to hold small parts that need a corner radius
Its planned.
I think your rotary would suit me just fine! All I have is a beat up old one.
This is all good stuff Joe - thanks for doing it. :)
I been waiting on this one! Excited to watch Joe!
Been flying lately ??
@@joepie221 as much as time allows!
Great video- loved the tip about moving in half the diameter of the cutter; that didn't naturally occur to me. I would love to see an explanation for using the rotary table to make a "lightbulb" shape. Basically a circle with a handle on it.
Hey Joe, move the zero indicator by drill & tap new hole. Tslots now perpendicular.
Bingo.
Joe, clamping is always problematic with rotary tables, for me.... :-) any tips?
This will be a good review, after learning in the 60's and not using the table for 40 years.
Yo, Joe!... I had the same concern [6:00 mark] ie; slots not aligned with the axis of the table.
It bugged me so much, I re-located the pointer. Now I smile!
Thx again for your content.
I moved mine too.
As always great video !!! I enjoy the info as I have 2 rotary tables and I find them very useful..
Tell now there is 8unlike to this awesome and great video,,, my, question is why?????? Thanks a lot Mr Joe a video with a million,,, thanks,
Hi Joe. I bet you could eliminate the 12 degree offset between the T-slots and the zero degree mark on the dial. You could disassembe the table and shift the clocking of the worm gear on the dial by three teeth, with respect to the gears on the table. I bet it was not properly assembled in the first place. 4 degrees on the dial (worm gear) times three teeth on the table will give you the twelve degrees.... Thanks for another good video!
nice math but i believe the marks are on the side of the table (which has the t-slots). if one could only realign the indicator on the base or the table had a movable marking ring.....
VERY NICE!
It just hit me as I watched your video - I've been thinking on how to make wood wheels for my own cannon build.
Now my lathe (unimat SL1000) holds up to 2" of work - and the wheels need to be 3" or so - but I do have a 3" rotary table... err..."light bulb"!
That is going to be shear FUN!
Thank you for sharing the wonderful tips and ideas.
Love your work -
It's legant, very accurate and smart...
what else can one ask for?
Saar
???? Mount the rotary table on an angle plate mounted to the top slide (or cross slide) and use a milling cutter in a headstock collet to mill the outside of your wheels?
Thanks Joe!
Love your Playland, Rye, NY sign! I grew up near there. Good video. Can also be used in a CNC lesson on how to use G40, G41, G42.
I was given a John Stevens Inc. 18" rotary table and that thing is a beast. You aren't kidding these things can weigh a ton. It's quite a bit bigger than I'll ever need. I may look for a smaller one, but I'll wait until I need one for sure.
Wow. An 18" is a 2 person job.
@@joepie221 yeah it definitely is, I have a hyd lift arm on the corner of my work bench and with that I can put it on my cart to get it to the mill. There was a time I could lift it on the mill by myself, but this cancer crap has destroyed my body and what strength I used to have, so I just get creative to move heavy stuff.
Nice job on the camera mount too.
great intro for the novice, thanks!
Love your videos! If possible I would give them all my 10 thumbs up.
Very Informative video Joe very clear and to the point.
I'm kind of old school, I like using the rotary table as much as I can or when I can, this way it will keep your mind thinking
I use an advanced cross slide rotary table, so I can unusually do some unusual stuff on a mill.
Yes, a CNC is faster, but like I said I'm old school .
I usually put the rotary table's center at 0,0 on the DRO's Absolute, and the normal X,Y movements on Incremental, this way you can always jump right back to the center of the rotary whenever you need to.
Sorry for the long-winded message
Machining has been a passion of mine for years, and once I get started I have a tough time stopping.
Many thanks for the tip. The test part looks a lot like part of a reversing gear for a steam engine.
Thank you Joe. I appreciate your sharing
Thanks Joe - much appreciated.
That GoPro mount was pretty slick.
flexible coolant conduit pieces yeah nice idea
Thanks for your videos... You have taught me a lot of cool tricks...
Awesome vid. Am looking at buying my first rotary table and mill drill in my workshop.
just love what you do. clear as mud. well not really. from an old grader driver, this is relevant in road work or you can't do anything but go straight! , maybe a poor choice of word these days.
Good advice I got as an apprentice was to centre the part on the table off the mill, then centre the spindle to the part, rather than picking up on the table, then tapping the part true while the table is on the mill. It's a lot easier. I was also taught to rough out slots and arcs by plunging every 1°, then take a finish pass, to avoid having the table/part shift under the cutting forces.
I like to nibble for slot work. Its really quick. About your setup technique, I'd have to see it, or get more details.
Thanks Joe - 90% clear. Just a dummy question- what are the additional two marks to the left and right of zero and 60 ......?
Everything else got through my thick skull on the first pass. That is a real accomplishment Joe! LOL!
_Dan_
Notice that there are always *two* pairs of lines lined up when you're using the vernier if you have the extra lines. It's a lot easier to be sure you're right on the line that way, and not being fooled by parallax (the angle you're viewing the scale from).
Thanks, Joe. Nice camera mount at the end and really looking forward to your next installment.
Cheers, Gary
Haha! I just went from "Yeah, yeah, I already know how to use a rotary table and I don't have no time to watch no video today" to "Oh! So THAT's how the seconds calculation works!" (that I had never bothered to really understand); and then to "Oh yeah, so THAT must be why the radius of that part was mysteriously slightly larger than it should've been!" (when I had never thought about the need to re-establish the radius over the zero between a linear cut and a radius cut. Just like you show, if you don't, your "new" radius of tool edge to part center is related to the length of the hypotenuse of a triangle whose adjacent side is the radius you 'want' and whose opposite side is the radius of the endmill. You really could do the trig and see *exactly* how many mils you'd be off if you forget). Thanks for another great video that has (once again) made me slightly less dumb. :-)
Fantastic info, Sir! I love all your videos, keep 'em coming⚡
Once again some great educational content.
I just got one question to the bonus part of the video...
Is the GoPro support made of some commercial available coolant hose or did you manufacture these hose segments by yourself.
The flex part is LocLine brand coolant hose. 1/2". Its available all over the place and on my website store. I made the aluminum end plates.
Loved the close view of the dial/graduations - very helpful 🍺
Hey Joe, as a proud Ruger collector, I noticed the epitaph 4-16-18 on your board. What happened? 3 screw flattops forever.
Ruger was my bulldogs name. he passed away on that date. I really enjoyed his company. tough loss.
Excellent video Sir. I’m in for the rotary table series. Question, are you going to show something with a surface grinder and rotary table. Not sure if it’s practical or not. I just have some round pieces I would like to play with on the surface grinder in practice servicing them similar to a fly wheel. I’m only a beginner in machining so don’t laugh too hard.
Most likely have to cover the rotary table to keep out the grit Only an idea Joe. Thank you so much for sharing
You are appreciated.👍👍👍
The gopro mount is brilliant.
Thank You Sir!!!
Loved this video, just got a Vertex 6" with divider plates and the tail stock... Maybe you could go over the divider plates? Thanks man great channel
Thanks for this Joe
Thanks Joe. Very good explanation for a rotary table. I am surprised I have never heard one word on this before. As always great hanging out with you.
Thanks Joe, great explanation of vernier scale. Also have you made a Tee Slot mount for you flexible camera arm yet?
Happy New Year Amigo!! Joe, could you possibly do a instead and outs, do's and don'ts on that brown and sharpe test indicator one day? I think that would be a great way to cover error on how different angles of contact can have some cosine error. Thanks for the great video!
Look back in my catalog. Cosine error video.
@@joepie221
Will do!
Thanks for covering the rotary table. I am toying with the idea of getting a 6" table that includes index wheels. It would be nice if you could cover using those attachments. I would appreciate a video for typical setups and a video covering just the math for converting back and forth from degrees to minutes as well.
I'm not sure why, but it seems all tables have a 90:1 ratio, forcing you into minutes and seconds of arc (most drawings I have seen use degrees). Sherline has nice 4" table (a bit small though) that has a 72:1 ratio. One turn is 5 degrees. It uses a 0-50 wheel where each mark is 1/10 degree. That would seem to be the perfect ratio for a rotary table. If you really wanted, you could add a verier to 0.01 degree resolution. Thanks again and keep up the great videos.
You'll feel better about it if you do make it operable joe! and it would be cool to do the due diligence of the details that go into getting it to work. besides the noise if fun !
Nice video Joe! Did you know that Phase II has an adapter kit for their rotary table converting the hand wheel to a dividing head style? I have one for my 8".
Thanks for the info!
@@joepie221 You're welcome. They also sell a full size diameter plate that has a center locating pin. I machined mine to accept all of my lathe chucks.
@ 6:35, could you pull the hand wheel (worm ?) gear, and turn it one tooth, to align ?
Many thanks Joe,
I've had a 10" rotary table a few years but never come close to using it anywhere near it's potential. Only ever used it for basic (table scale) degree hole making. (just like the 4" Made in India I had before it) I knew it had vernier scale for minutes but the hand-wheel markings always confused me (1,2,3,0?) Watching video and it makes super easy sense. With quadrant 'exercise' oops, I'm guilty of remembering tool offset one direction but not the other. I think I may now be ready to try some of the projects I didn't know how to divide up accurately.
Gday Joe, have you thought ( if you already haven't) about making a new location for the adjustable zero plate so that the slots are perpendicular to the table. Cheers Jason
Yep. Already done.
Joe, master machinist awesomeness. You keep sharing the most amazing information and detail. Thank you.... thank you..... thank you. 👍 😁
Fantastic Joe, thank you very much. This is just the instruction I want. I am looking forward to further videos. Best wishes. Andy
Very informative, thanks. I look forward to more rotary table vids. A rt is on my want list.
Machine a new notch in the body and move the pointer 10 or whatever degrees.
Awesome content. The locating of parts onto the rotary table will be very helpful, as I haven't seen any one else make a multi part series just on this topic. Thanks.
Ha. I discovered the vernier markings on mine. Score Joe 1, Wes 0!
Joe, thank you so much for going these videos! I have learned so much, these are all things i have always wanted to learn to do probably.
thanks keep up the good work
To me degrees, minutes, seconds makes as much sense as pounds, shillings, pence. Someday I will make a new dial in decimal degrees. Dyslexics of the world untie!
If you think about a single degree as one complete 360 degree sweep of a second hand on a clock face, things may start to get clearer. Just pretend, one degree = one hour. For every degree, there are 60 minutes. If you could have a really big clock face and fit 60 lines in between each of those 60 minute lines, you would now have the seconds. 60 seconds to every minute. Everything is just a smaller part of the group before it. Just like telling time. Decimal angles can get confusing and will always need conversion before a machine can be adjusted to position correctly. The error is usually in the interpretation. 20.3 degrees, is not 20 degrees, 3 minutes. Hows that for a clear explanation??
Thumbs up for the "Playland, Rye, NY" . . . . old license plate topper?
Yep. Just did a job for their resident machinist and he gave me that as swag for the effort.
When you made the slot wider, the ends of the slot would not be parallel with the sides of the part but would follow the radius line from the center of the rotary table, correct? How would you make it parallel with the straight sides of the part? Great videos, by the way. Thanks Joe.
Thats a common misconception. Use the X and Y cranks on the mill to keep the slots parallel to the part sides. Just be sure to get the part back to zero, and go at it like any other vertical or horizontal slot. Then use the rotary to connect everything.
Joe, you are the ONE-STOP-SHOP for all things machining info! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us that are still learning the ins and outs of proper machining!
Glad to help
Hi Joe,
I sincerely appreciate your taking the time to explain the nuances of degrees, minutes, and seconds. I haven't worked with these measurement units since school so the refresher is appreciated!
Good info! Now slap an xy table on top of the rotary and compound it. I did some of that years ago, a real head scratcher!
I plan to build a shop hoist (A-frame) to lift things like this onto the mill so I don't hurt myself or drop and damage these expensive things. The vice and materials can easily get too heavy to safely lift. Likewise with larger lathe chucks and bigger shafts. I'm not getting any younger. Looking forward to the next vids.
Not as much fun but I suspect a commercial hydraulic engine hoist would be cheaper and will fold up for storage.
Barry Gerbracht None of us are. If you figure that out, let us know:) All I did was make/fab/weld up a tool cart for the heavier stuff and lower the table of the mill to height and lock the wheels and slide it over. Teflon or any kind of high density plastic works great. I have a hydraulic hoist to lift the heavier stuff onto the table. Obviously It needs to be not top heavy. I have the lower shelves with enough items to keep it in check. It obviously can then be rolled out of the way and allow more room for work space that’s non confining.
Hey Joe, I love your videos and have been following for a while. I have been doing machine work for years and am not at your level by any means but am always interested in doing things on a manual mill. I have both manual and CNC but always wonder how they did things in the old days. I have been playing around with building a cycloid drive and have no problem making the cycloid on the CNC mill with the part being designed in Solidworks. Was wondering if you had any insight on how they might have done these in the old days with out CNC. Possibly some sort of rotary table setup??? Thanks!
Hey Joe love your videos they have been very helpful to guy who pretends to be a machinist.......I ve got probably a stupid question for you.....I have the same rotary table as you ) phase 2 10 inch) what would you use the morse taper hole in the middle for? Is it just for centering the table?
To be honest, I have never used it for anything, but I am open for suggestions.
@@joepie221 I have put 3MT drill chuck in it, and used it to cut slots in spur rowels. Probably not what you would do, but worked rally well for me.
Love your videos, Thanks for the effort to teach.
Hey west Weld ,I use mine for a quick alignment of a 3 jaw chuck. Slide the chuck on add fixings , place taper with additional parallel length say a lathe tail stock alignment tool tighten the chuck to the taper tool and tighten the chuck fixings. and wallah centered chuck.
@@tonyhughes7056 And the 12" rotary table comes with an MT#4 taper.
@@joepie221 Hi Joe, I have a cheapo Chinese rotary table with an MT2 hole down the centre.....And I'm currently making a 1" ID clamp out of a 1.5" x 2" piece of 6mm cold rolled MS. This is to secure the slide of a digital scale to the lathe tailstock barrel to give me DRO on its travel. I have a damaged memory and am so fed up with getting lost trying to remember how many turns I've turned the handle on the 8TPI screw! So far, I've machined the ID on the lathe in the 4 jaw chuck, and have a blank MT2 arbor with a 1.5" end. I'd previously used it for something or other, so it already had a clamp washer and 8mm thread. So today I machined a 1" boss on it, and installed it on the rotary table with a small drawbolt up the bottom. I centred the 1" boss OD to the mill spindle just as per your video and have rough sawn the bulk of the waste out of the clamp workpiece and mounted it on the arbor. I'm now just trawling your videos for machining tips when using a rotary table. But hopefully from my description, you can imagine what my workpiece looks like, and I'm thinking an MT centre bore seems perfect for tasks such as this where 360 degree machining of a perimeter is needed ....mostly 1/4" wide strap, but with an 'excursion' on the X & Y axes to do the lugs for the clamp bolt, and DRO slide attach point. Like you say...lots of maths & dimensions, so with my bad memory.....one slip up and it's a scrap bin filler! But I've done one of your great tips and put a sharpie mark on the X & Y carriages for the centre point, so if I get lost, I can quickly get back to a good reference point. So West Weld......for this sort of task I think the MT bore is good to have, otherwise I'd have to mount a chuck on the rotary table, use the inner jaws to hold the workpiece, and it all 'wedding cake layers' up to leave no Z height left on the mill to get a cutter in! BTW I'd also previously made a short MT2 plug, with a centre drilled top, so can use this to quickly centre the table to the mill spindle. Couldn't do that today because I had to tighten the drawbolt on my arbor BEFORE mounting the rotary table on the mill table. Stay safe everyone. Cheers, Allan
Joe, Thanks for the clear explanations. I am looking forward to the rest of this series and am eagerly waiting for the tangent cutting episode. :D
Not the most rigid setup, but it worked out pretty well on my little mill until I started printing gears. The cut gears are still better, but printing takes less work. www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?338827-Do-it-myself-focus-gears
I just recently got a rotary table and just stumbled onto this video so it was very interesting to me thanks again you are my go to youtube channel for machining info before I check any others out
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks, for teaching us noobs😂
Appreciate it👍
Glad to help.
One fix I found for helping with chatter in my rotary table is using heavy lucas oil in the perimeter bearing surface. It produces a dampening effect that cuts down on chatter. That's weird about the offset on your rotary table. I have a 4 slot and the 0 degree lines up when the slots are parallel with the ways. Cool camera mount, that would be great for coolant also.
Those things are heavy, and I hated weighing my mill table down, so I rigged springs from the ceiling to relieve it some. Desperate and goofy, but it worked better than it sounds.
BRASS CANON..... yeah we know , we only been waiting 2 years . :))) I Just bought myself a rotary table so I will be watching these videos with eagerness. Thanks.
The wheels are 14 spoke 7 segment assemblies. Intricate.
Awesome as always Joe. How about a short video on a 5c spindexer?
OOOOH. How about a spin indexer on a rotary table?? Now you're talking.
@@joepie221 why do I feel your crazy and smart enough to make that work