Mr. Pete, I'm somewhat of an old dog but I really enjoy watching and learning from you and your videos. It's very generous of you to share your knowledge with us. Thank You,Jim
Thank you for a great video on the rotary table, Professor. I have mounted my 14” rotary hunk of metal onto my mill and loved seeing the precise and the quick approach to finding concentricity. That was another great insight regarding the removal of backlash. Thank you.
Great video thank you for all the effort you take to teach us young generation valuable trade skills. My Grandpa is a mentor for me and I appreciate everything he teaches me.
Hi Mr. Pete aka tubalcain. Great video. I just bought an FAM model number 103, made in California. It s a pretty new manufacturer, so unlikley to show up on any google search. Your instruction is sure helping me to turn this pile of metal rubble into something Great! Thank You!
Slightly over 40 years ago I was A Quartermaster in the US Navy so I am somewhat familiar with where the different degrees point, even though I was never a machinist. I do really enjoy your teaching sessions!
Great video. You continue to pack more than twice the instruction into each minute than any of the other youtube machinists except maybe Toms Techniques, he may be a tie. Keep on making the great videos.
Good video. I like machining and wanted to become a machinist when I was a kid, but I found they dont pay well overall in the industry to have what I call a good life with a good sized house, new cars and such. Still like machining though, something cool about taking a raw material and transforming it before your own eyes into something precise and useful.
Great video! I needed this! Now I need to watch #156 since I don't have a mill yet, the layout method will probably work better in my drill press. Thanks!
great to see how effortless you make all this look, when can we get to see the other two vids of this series? can't wait to see them. thanks for the upload and keep up the good work
Hi brother, I noticed that the spacers under your two clamps were lower than the height of the work piece. May I suggest that you use a spacer which is slightly higher (+- 0.5 mm) than the work piece which will give you a positive down force instead of tending to tip the work piece using a lower spacer.
Great video. Rotary tables were one of my favorite tools along with indexing heads. not sure why you didn't cut the recess on the table while it was setup, would have only taken a few minutes.
Better to return the table to zero before going on to the next hole i.e 0 to 60 ,return to zero then 0 to 120,return to zero then 0 to 180 and so forth always going in the same direction to eliminate backlash.If you go 0 to 60,then 60 to 120,then 120 to 180......errors will accumalate.Yes it does take longer and can become tedious.Thanks for your tips.
Nice video on rotary table operation. With respect , I was wondering if you would also show how these holes can be put in not using a table but with trig. I have been a toolmaker for forty years and have used this method for uneven locations as well.
It may be worth noting that your DRO (at least for the x axis) is reversed! When you moved the tool to the right it read out -.625 it should have read +.625! While it would be easy enough to use it this way on a manual mill it might be best to follow the conventions of the Cartesian coordinate system to avoid confusion for your viewers and to be better prepared for CNC programming and operation... Love the videos-Thanks!
Idea, If you would have made the aluminum backer plate the same size as the metal plate, you could have finished it with holes and chamfers later to make a lathe handle for a cross slide on another machine.
Mr. Pete. I have a question. Using the rotary table. I have a work piece that has radius mill at specific locations at a specific depth. I think I have to set up the center of the rotary to each center point. Is there a different techniques. Thanks.
if you need any products realted machine tolos as like rotary table, dividing plate, clamping kit, taper turning tailstock, adjustable swivel angle plate, tilting vertical slide, boring head and professional forming kit so please contect me on my email : ajay9811112567@gmail.com skype id : ajay sharam100 And you will be available at very good prices
Can you reduce the size of a radius by using some locking nut etc on the center hole, then slowly take off the side of the wheel to your tolerance? I am working on sizing a piece of round stock to fit/plug off the end of a thick walled pipe. I don't own a lathe. trying to slowly turn a piece on a rotary table. Is this workable or not very safe. Needing to lift up the piece to not to cut into my rotary table.
Instead of recessing the flywheel after drilling the holes would it not be better to recess the flywheel first and then drilling the holes to avoid the interrupted cuts?
That's funny... you've got a Metric table (that seems to be a bit annoying to you). Here I am in Europe and it seems that my new rotary table is all Imperial and that's annoying me just as much. ;)
Mine is made in Germany, I do not remember the make. It's in one of my videos. I do not have a particular recommendation. It's whatever you can find used in good condition
great well done I would like to know how to convert degrees in to fractions say I had a 2'' circle and I wanted to mark a line 3/.8 of a inch from zero on the degrees on the rotary table how do I figure that out I making sense thank you Richard Westerfield
Convert to metric by multiplying by 25.4, imagine your 2" circle to be a straight line 50.8mm in lenght and your hole is 9.525 [3/8] along it.Take your 50.8mm and divide by 360 degrees to determine how far along the line each degree will take you-50.8/360=.141mm.So each degree is ''worth'' .141mm.Take your distance along the line,9.525,and convert it to degrees by dividing .141mm into it.9.525/.141=67.553degrees.I am not a machinist but have used this method to convert degrees to distance along a circumference.Find your circumference by the formula pi times diameter [ 3.14 x D]
Why didnt you just push an endmill through to make the holes? Its not really the "right" way to cut holes, but the work you're doing is just for show and plunge cutting with an endmill is one step for each hole.
ajju poku I agree, you don't want to use endmills for this job, they're not pockets, they're pass-thru holes, you wouldn't use endmills for this unless you had a money growing tree. My 4 fluted mills do not clear very well on aluminum, they do OK-ish with steel on a dry / limited lubrication setup like this. Sharpening twist drills is childs play compared to endmills, You can always drill undersize and ream if you want a better finish, at the cost of reamer life and your time of course.
gushhnet Why are you even bothering with using a 4 fluted endmill on aluminum? They just gum up and dull out. Use a 2 fluted mill with some alum-cut and it will cut like butter. My high speed steel end mills get thrown out after they are sharpened once or twice. I pretty much use carbide mills for everything nowadays, they hold up much better and the generally cut better, even plunge cutting. Like I said before, the job he is doing isnt really precision work, so save yourself the time.
ajju poku Yup, but most of us use what we have, I hardly buy tooling specifically for a project, unless there's no way around it. Most of my tools are used, as NOS is hard to come by where I live and the prices of new endmills are too high for a hobby. It is what it is.
ajju poku I have never used a 3 fluted mill, never saw a reason to. Then again, Im on a Bridgeport mill using carbide tooling on everything so I never worry about dulling mills or speeds for the most part. I run almost all my carbide tools at 1400 rpm, unless its a special tool, such as a roughing mill. I do this for a living, not a hobby.
Non-coated mostly, its what my company buys cause they are cheaper. Coated I run about 2200rpm, thats still slow in some cases but im machining delicate components for fixtures. I build fixtures for plastic injection molded components for the auto industries.
I don't care for the imperial system myself, but there's no arguing it exists. I switch back and forth seamlessly, the problem is when they both collide, which they shouldn't, but ask NASA!
gushhnet I won't argue that the metric system works well, but I'm used to the inch system and my machine tools are all in inch. What is really frustrating is when a tractor or piece of equipment has both inch and metric bolts, I have to own two complete sets of tools.
Mr. Pete, I'm somewhat of an old dog but I really enjoy watching and learning from you and your videos. It's very generous of you to share your knowledge with us. Thank You,Jim
+Jim Whitaker Thanks for watching
Thank you for a great video on the rotary table, Professor. I have mounted my 14” rotary hunk of metal onto my mill and loved seeing the precise and the quick approach to finding concentricity. That was another great insight regarding the removal of backlash. Thank you.
Great video thank you for all the effort you take to teach us young generation valuable trade skills. My Grandpa is a mentor for me and I appreciate everything he teaches me.
Hi Mr. Pete aka tubalcain. Great video. I just bought an FAM model number 103, made in California. It s a pretty new manufacturer, so unlikley to show up on any google search. Your instruction is sure helping me to turn this pile of metal rubble into something Great! Thank You!
Good luck on that, my restoration was quite a long job
I think the best tip on this video is your hand countersink tool, I really like that
great video. but I was thinking of a different type of drink LOL!!! thanks for passing this info to the younger generation!!!
Slightly over 40 years ago I was A Quartermaster in the US Navy so I am somewhat familiar with where the different degrees point, even though I was never a machinist.
I do really enjoy your teaching sessions!
Thanks you
Ahh some good old fashioned engineering skills. Thank you for sharing your skills, very enjoyable.
Thank you so much for all your videos but especially this series. I just got a small mill in order to do this type of machining. Thanks again
I need a counter sink hand tool like you have for sure because I really like and need one of those. I will be keeping my eye out for one now.
This is another Great how to video series I am still waiting at the sixth hole for that Drink !!!
Hi mrpete,
Good tutorial, well detailed. I guess we could even do the recess with an end mill while we are on the rotary table.
Thanks,
Pierre
MrPete, I don't believe you've made a video that is useful to someone. Keep them coming please.
Great video. You continue to pack more than twice the instruction into each minute than any of the other youtube machinists except maybe Toms Techniques, he may be a tie. Keep on making the great videos.
WOW-that's quite a complement-Thanks.
Agree As a neophite, old guy with no shop training, these are just immensely informative. Thanks very much for the effort
One small tip.
Drill a tiny dimple with the centre drill and check with a steel rule before committing to a fully drilled centre.
Thanks
Good video. I like machining and wanted to become a machinist when I was a kid, but I found they dont pay well overall in the industry to have what I call a good life with a good sized house, new cars and such. Still like machining though, something cool about taking a raw material and transforming it before your own eyes into something precise and useful.
I tell you this is one good video on rotary tables. Thank you!
Thank you very much
I love your down to earth videos
Great video! I needed this! Now I need to watch #156 since I don't have a mill yet, the layout method will probably work better in my drill press. Thanks!
+Dustin Masters Thanks for watching
Great rotab demo Mr Pete!
Colin
great to see how effortless you make all this look, when can we get to see the other two vids of this series? can't wait to see them. thanks for the upload and keep up the good work
Hi brother, I noticed that the spacers under your two clamps were lower than the height of the work piece. May I suggest that you use a spacer which is slightly higher (+- 0.5 mm) than the work piece which will give you a positive down force instead of tending to tip the work piece using a lower spacer.
thanks mr. pete your a great teacher.
great teacher. greetings from Brazil
Great video. Rotary tables were one of my favorite tools along with indexing heads. not sure why you didn't cut the recess on the table while it was setup, would have only taken a few minutes.
Better to return the table to zero before going on to the next hole i.e 0 to 60 ,return to zero then 0 to 120,return to zero then 0 to 180 and so forth always going in the same direction to eliminate backlash.If you go 0 to 60,then 60 to 120,then 120 to 180......errors will accumalate.Yes it does take longer and can become tedious.Thanks for your tips.
Yes
Nice video on rotary table operation. With respect , I was wondering if you would also show how these holes can be put in not using a table but with trig. I have been a toolmaker for forty years and have used this method for uneven locations as well.
Très très bonne explication !!!
Merci !
Georges
It may be worth noting that your DRO (at least for the x axis) is reversed! When you moved the tool to the right it read out -.625 it should have read +.625! While it would be easy enough to use it this way on a manual mill it might be best to follow the conventions of the Cartesian coordinate system to avoid confusion for your viewers and to be better prepared for CNC programming and operation... Love the videos-Thanks!
Thanks--will try to fix.
Thank-you!
Mike.
So interesting, keep up the videos please
More to come!
How would you go about centering a workpiece on the rotary table if you didn't have a hole drilled in the part? Thanks for the video
That was a pretty high spindle speed for the final drilling operation, no?
mrpete222 Thanks for showing,Got all that many years ago.Really interested in the cutting oil can.What can you say about it?
Idea, If you would have made the aluminum backer plate the same size as the metal plate, you could have finished it with holes and chamfers later to make a lathe handle for a cross slide on another machine.
Mr. Pete. I have a question. Using the rotary table. I have a work piece that has radius mill at specific locations at a specific depth. I think I have to set up the center of the rotary to each center point. Is there a different techniques. Thanks.
Good job love watching. Do you do lath work ? Can you explain the degrees for the cutting tools? Pleas thank you
Great job!
thanks from Portugal ........ nice video !
👍
At 9:57 - When storing your dividing head on the floor next to your Bridgeport, do you ever worry about tripping over it?
Frank
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
Hey man, how would you hold the material if the holes where to be placed around 1mm to the circumference?
New subscriber, enjoy your videos....thank you much
Brilliant video
👍
Lots of good information thank you
another great video. How about cutting a radius on a flat bar on a rotary table without a DRO?
if you need any products realted machine tolos as like rotary table, dividing plate, clamping kit, taper turning tailstock, adjustable swivel angle plate, tilting vertical slide, boring head and professional forming kit so please
contect me on
my email : ajay9811112567@gmail.com
skype id : ajay sharam100
And you will be available at very good prices
Can you reduce the size of a radius by using some locking nut etc on the center hole, then slowly take off the side of the wheel to your tolerance? I am working on sizing a piece of round stock to fit/plug off the end of a thick walled pipe. I don't own a lathe. trying to slowly turn a piece on a rotary table. Is this workable or not very safe. Needing to lift up the piece to not to cut into my rotary table.
I think it is very doable
enjoyed the video.
Un-patiently waiting for the layout video.
I hear you mention your brother from time to time,is he still living and if so does he do RUclips videos?
Mr. Pete, what kind of cutting fluid is in your TIPS 135 can? It looks thick. Yes, I'm guilty of using oil or gear oil sometimes....
Instead of recessing the flywheel after drilling the holes would it not be better to recess the flywheel first and then drilling the holes to avoid the interrupted cuts?
Thank you, many ways to skin a cat
That's funny... you've got a Metric table (that seems to be a bit annoying to you).
Here I am in Europe and it seems that my new rotary table is all Imperial and that's annoying me just as much. ;)
What rotary table make and model do you own? New ones I've seen are made overseas. Any recommendations? Thanks!
Mine is made in Germany, I do not remember the make. It's in one of my videos. I do not have a particular recommendation. It's whatever you can find used in good condition
i enjoy them all, could we have a "scotch key" episode?
Thanks
Good info .. I enjoyed it !!
Does [private video] mean it has not yet been completed? . . . or is there a secret handshake I missed?
not completed
Need to find me an affordable rotary table. Will be handy.
Great Video
The rotary table must be from Canada. Is everything metric the T- nuts and ever nut and bolt. It's looks old.
great well done I would like to know how to convert degrees in to fractions say I had a 2'' circle and I wanted to mark a line 3/.8 of a inch from zero on the degrees on the rotary table how do I figure that out I making sense
thank you
Richard Westerfield
Convert to metric by multiplying by 25.4, imagine your 2" circle to be a straight line 50.8mm in lenght and your hole is 9.525 [3/8] along it.Take your 50.8mm and divide by 360 degrees to determine how far along the line each degree will take you-50.8/360=.141mm.So each degree is ''worth'' .141mm.Take your distance along the line,9.525,and convert it to degrees by dividing .141mm into it.9.525/.141=67.553degrees.I am not a machinist but have used this method to convert degrees to distance along a circumference.Find your circumference by the formula pi times diameter [ 3.14 x D]
Good job
Very Kool!
how did you do the recess? Did you use rotory table for that?
He put it back in the lathe.
Sounds like it's turning too fast for the larger drill bit.
thank you
+ELSDP-45 Thanks for watching
👍
Your a fan of stubby drill bits. Who doesn't know that?
Why didnt you just push an endmill through to make the holes? Its not really the "right" way to cut holes, but the work you're doing is just for show and plunge cutting with an endmill is one step for each hole.
ajju poku I agree, you don't want to use endmills for this job, they're not pockets, they're pass-thru holes, you wouldn't use endmills for this unless you had a money growing tree. My 4 fluted mills do not clear very well on aluminum, they do OK-ish with steel on a dry / limited lubrication setup like this. Sharpening twist drills is childs play compared to endmills, You can always drill undersize and ream if you want a better finish, at the cost of reamer life and your time of course.
gushhnet Why are you even bothering with using a 4 fluted endmill on aluminum? They just gum up and dull out. Use a 2 fluted mill with some alum-cut and it will cut like butter. My high speed steel end mills get thrown out after they are sharpened once or twice. I pretty much use carbide mills for everything nowadays, they hold up much better and the generally cut better, even plunge cutting. Like I said before, the job he is doing isnt really precision work, so save yourself the time.
ajju poku Yup, but most of us use what we have, I hardly buy tooling specifically for a project, unless there's no way around it. Most of my tools are used, as NOS is hard to come by where I live and the prices of new endmills are too high for a hobby. It is what it is.
ajju poku I have never used a 3 fluted mill, never saw a reason to. Then again, Im on a Bridgeport mill using carbide tooling on everything so I never worry about dulling mills or speeds for the most part. I run almost all my carbide tools at 1400 rpm, unless its a special tool, such as a roughing mill. I do this for a living, not a hobby.
Non-coated mostly, its what my company buys cause they are cheaper. Coated I run about 2200rpm, thats still slow in some cases but im machining delicate components for fixtures. I build fixtures for plastic injection molded components for the auto industries.
j can't even figure out how to mount the rotary table to the mill table, LoL
I don't know about you but I don't care much care for the metric system. Jumping between metric and the inch system is a real hassle.
I don't care for the imperial system myself, but there's no arguing it exists. I switch back and forth seamlessly, the problem is when they both collide, which they shouldn't, but ask NASA!
gushhnet I won't argue that the metric system works well, but I'm used to the inch system and my machine tools are all in inch. What is really frustrating is when a tractor or piece of equipment has both inch and metric bolts, I have to own two complete sets of tools.
That was a pretty high spindle speed for the final drilling operation, no?