Ivan, your use of electronics in this video is very impressive, and I found the info put forth very helpful and very educational. Thank you, my friend, for posting.
I didnt realize you have a channel! This is great!!! Remember the DEBOK is a registered trademark- I normally get significant royalties for its use, but I'll give you a pass for doing a great job! Seriously- great job bro. This one reminds me of one of my favorite viewer comments: "You know you're a 2%er when you get frustrated at an intermittent problem fixing itself instead of being happy about it like everyone else does".
Schrodingers Box Hey Matt, thanks for the feedback! Yeah just testing the RUclips waters at this point. What's the DE in DEBOK?? It's definitely tough with intermittent issues sometimes. I spent three days once getting a Kia Amanti throttle body to act up and go into limp-home mode, driving around with an amp clamp under the hood. Finally caught the current spike on the screen; had to be 100% on that one since a new TB cost $1000!!
motoYam82 It's the Dry Erase Board Of Knowledge lol. Keep up the good work- get a few more vids on here and I'll give you a shout out- seemed to help for your buddy Eric!
Oh yeah duh lol...maybe I should go with WBOD: White board of Diagnostics? Appreciate the support; going to make the channel a bit more "official" once I get the website up and running. Should happen very soon!
I should have looked at comments earlier. Great video, but unfortunately when I went to BBB industries, I found this message-"BBB no longer offers TSBs and wiring diagrams. We apologize for the inconvenience. " I'm looking for another source to continue the repairs
AFTER ALL THE VERY USEFUL INFORMATION :) "YOU FOUND", THE ISSUE, IT STEMMED FROM THE CONNECTOR IN THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE AT THE MODULE... MAYBE A LITTLE DIELECTRIC GREASE WOULD HELP TO KEEP THE CONNECTIONS CLEAN AND DRY... MY PROFESSION IS VEHICULAR ELECTRIC, YOUR TECHNIQUE IS VERY SIMILAR TO MINE... EXCELLENT JOB!!!!
Fixed my Duramax today. 1’airbag sensor on middle of radiator bracket. Not 2 like the 1500 models. B0103 code. Both batteries died also today. Bought new interstate brand. so replaced sensor while batteries were out of truck. Truck runs better with new batteries and lights are brighter and truck has more power.
I know this is an old video. But I heard you should never test airbag squibs with an ohm meter. The dvom uses a low voltage to test for ohms and the current being passed through the squib can be enough to detonate the air bag. A safer test is to put four 10 ohm resistors in parallel (just an easy way to make 2.5 ohms), jump the pins on the module side, and the code should go away. Then you can just remove the air bag from the steering wheel and put the same four 10 ohm resistors into the wires, plug the connector back in, and if the code comes back you know there is an open between the connector and the airbag (99.9% clockspring). If the code is still gone, you know the squib is open circuited.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I don't know to be honest as I am not specialized in airbag systems and I only heard the tip from a forum that you should not use a dvom, because even a AAA battery with 1.5V apparently can blow the airbag, so I've heard, and most dvoms use around 1-2 volts to measure resistance, meaning a dvom can theoretically blow an airbag. The air bag modules must send either lower voltages or lower currents in order to check for circuit resistance, but since the engineers building the srs module know how much current is needed to blow the bag, and the dvom manufacturers do not know, it is better to be safe than sorry. I am by no means criticizing your work or telling you what not to do, but just sharing my background knowledge.
Just unplug your impact sensor modules. Spray a little contact cleaner, and put some dielectric grease on the connector. Saves about $150.00 for sensors and several hours of diagnostic repair. 😊
Thanks Currently diagnosing exactly the same issue on same city fleet truck Previous technician threw a bunch of parts at it, 6mos ago Naturally it didn’t fix it Honestly thinking SRS module
Good morning Terry. What's your thoughts on using a low amp clamp with your scope to monitor a wire upstream during a wiggle test vs back probing for voltage at the connector ?
Steve Rob Good morning back to you Steve and hope you're doing well! In Ivan's case, an amp clamp would be pretty much useless because the amperage would be so LOW. Most of the amp probes wouldn't be sensitive enough to measure such a low amperage. But there are specialty amp probes that can measure accurately in the low milliamp range. The drawback is that those jokers are very expensive. Here is an example of one from fluke and it runs close to $600. www.fluke.com/fluke/vnen/Process-Calibration-Tools/Loop-Calibrators/Fluke-771-772-773.htm?PID=56128
stuzman52 Terry is right on the ball here :) Wouldn't use a traditional amp clamp for anything lower that 500mA, which is most sensing circuits (most can't flow enough current to even light a test light!) So voltage measurements with a graphing meter are definitely the way to go for finding intermittent wiring breaks.
I wish you were in NYC. I got B0081_00 on my Cadillac escalade 2010 and it appeared one day after I left vehicle with lights on and battery died. After I changed battery and installed terminals I got a code. I don't know what should I do.
I have a 2013 Silverado that shows an intermittent airbag light/service airbag. I have seen problems with connectors on the front of this truck. Pulling the connector apart, making sure it is clean and then using silicone grease to repel any moisture may correct the problem and would be the first thing I would try before easter-egging parts. This should also prevent moisture from being an ongoing issue.
Been 7 years. Did you ever figure it out? I had the same codes but had nothing to do with wiring or driver side. Message back if you want to know what problem I found and, although haven't fixed, but know what the issue is.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics . My 2003 silversdo has the same air bag codes. Skipping ahead to the problem was this: while re-upholstering the passenger seat, I found there was a clear oily substance all over the underside. Long story short, there is an airbag weight sensor that had cracked and leaked out. Looks similar to bubble wrap with clear oil inside. Anyway, the end of it (where passenger thighs would sit), was cracked all the way across. In addition, I noticed that my airbag message would not appear if there was a passenger in that seat. I haven't been able to find the part although I do have a picture of it and the part number on the air hose that connects to an electrical connector.
Thanks brother for showing us your knowledge, hey I have a 2017 Ford F-350 6.7 and I have this code U0557 and do you have any idea what can be, or what I have to check first, thanks again for your wonderful videos,
I've never had to do an airbag diagnosis. I was under the impression doing resistance tests and in fact even voltage tests might cause deployment. What is the actual combination of events that would cause deployment?
Schrodingers Box Hah yeah it can be a bit unnerving if you listen to all the horror tales. Airbag systems have many fail-safe mechanisms. The only way to deploy the airbag is to short out the two wires going to an impact sensor (simulating an impact). Reading service data, in general the deployment current is >10 amps, and more importantly the deployment voltage is either 24 or 42V, which is why the module uses capacitors in series to deliver the sudden rush of current at the higher voltage. So careful probing with a voltmeter isn't going to set anything off. Still, you have to think about what you are probing and use your head :)
Hahaha I say Let Ivan do it! I know full well that I'll only end up with the most viral automotive repair video in RUclips history if I cover airbags!!
+motoYam82 You're right. Airbags are not bombs just waiting to go off at the slightest hair trigger. I've worked with many airbags, testing the with DVOM,s and connecting/disconnecting them without even having the battery disconnected. I have also deployed a couple of them intentionally just for fun :-) And FYI, they will deploy from just 12 volts with high amps.
We are at 3 generations of airbags. It is my understanding that the first and second can be deployed at 1.6 amps and will NOT deploy at . 800 mA .Connectors, used to be only yellow and that is now gone,.. they can be any color and no longer bundled separately. They are now wrapped in the standard looms. I would like to know more and be comfortable servicing these units.
Ivan, I have an 04 Escalade I believe has a similar issue, unfortunately I do not have a scope but I measured the voltage at the connector for the left front impact sensor, grey wire (high side) is 8v or so (not accurate I know) and the yellow only shows .04v. Only code is for sensor performance B0100, i had tried swapping the sensor with another used one. Resistance is only .1 ohms from front connector to c204 behind the kick, and voltage is the same with c204 unplugged. I used wd40 on the connector to the srs module under the seat, I'll be ordering some deoxit soon! My question is do the impact sensors see a similar signal as the pins you checked in these videos? (Didn't think to check the pins to the right sensor yet🤷♀️) thank you for the awesome videos!
Not sure, but definitely compare to the right sensor; they should be the same. Swap sensors left to right, reset the codes, and check again. Impact sensor is a common failure on those trucks.
I'll try when I get home tonight thanks for the reply! Love the video on the pressurized air bleed also I just replaced all the brake lines and the ABS unit so I'll definitely be using that as well!
Ivan I forgot to tell you I work with a air bag place out of Dallas and they told me the shorting bars get weak and they tell me to remove them I remove a lot of them I always thought you needed them and they tell me to remove it
Im having the same issue. 2005 silverado airbag light stays on. I need a vin inspection done. They wont do it with that light on. B0044- B0101 codes came up. Took it to 2 different mechanics. They had the truck for. Month. Came back supposedly fixed. Was working until i was going to take it to get inspected. Then bam the light stayed on. And this is how i came across u channel lol looking for answers and fixes
Hi Ivan, this video and the part 2 is amazing, it's just what I was looking for to have an idea about it. I have a Chevy TrailBlazer 2007, 5.3L and I have these codes B0042 and B0022. Do you have any idea what is happening.Apparently is a circuit issue. I used a contact cleaner and nothing, and the mechanic put a resistance to prove and nothing.If you have any advise I will really appreciate your help my dear friend.
Smart ass comment # 14574 Ck gas cap, opened gas door yep gas caps there. Ck engine light Opened hood yep engines there. Ck airbag. Looked in passanger set yep wife's there.
OK Ivan this one is bugging me so basically I have seen diagnostic stradegys from manufacurer saying unplug and plug it back in was this a situation where the circuit is so sensitive the line just creates a problem for certain circuits like the air bag circuit basically what you did to fix it was go down and mess with connectors unplug and plug them back in the regain proper continuity where you should have had proper continuity I stand still inmtimitaded by air bag circuits DAM IT
Hi Do have any idea how to fix the issue with 05 Yukon traction control kicking in all the time for no reason, and also activating abs , Causing the car to not move in middle of an intersection
I removed my steering wheel airbag to access the wiring for my SWC I don’t think it shows the airbag light but i do have the. Service air bag on the screen. I had the battery disconnected about a day before removing and the same when installing. Never been deployed and plugged in. Same order I took out with 2 the two connects. Could it be a fuse I blew causing it to trigger if anyone has experience. It’s a 2006 Sierra.
I have a 2007 Chevy Cargo Van. No loos wires or connections. The airbag blinks and then it stays on. The drivers seat recognizes me sitting in it with the seat belt unbuckled . The passengers seat does not recognize me. I can sit in passenger seat and seat belt light will not come on. I pulled the seat out and unplugged it and same problem, airbag light on and no seat belt light. I pulled back the vinyl seat covers and see a module with a ribbon cable going to a pad. Could the seat module/ribbon cable pad be open??
I have a 99 chevrolet blazer airbag light on I've tested through airbag system getting 2.5ohms on airbag with shorting bar disengaged reading volts from sdm is 9volts with airbag unplugged code was passenger loop open I show no circuit problems at connectors behind glove box
I have a 2004 subaru forester that had been backed into hard enough to deploy both air bags, I replace the bags and the light is still on, do you think something other than the bags could have been damaged, I also had to replace the connector on the steering wheel bag wire,
You would have to scan for body trouble codes and go from there. Often you have to replace and/or reset/reprogram the main airbag module as it is a one-time use module.
I thought the air bag system was not serviceable I got that problem on my 08 impala reset the computer half a dozen times and I do not know what to do dealer can not find the problem I think my car has a serious electrical problem can you help
When electronics where Japanese made I only ever replaced them if customers wanted upgrades or broke it, then the chinese landfill started to swamp everything and nothing worked right and failed in less than a year. Decades of rubbish and getting to the norm of junk out of box now.
I have a similar problem, and have replaced the sensor with no resolution..now what wise ass! This guy isbtrying to help because it's not always that simple!
The sensor is under the radiator behind the bumper. There is one for each side. They are held on with one bolt and a clip that holds the wires. There is a safety on the clip that prevents it from coming undone un-intentionally. They are pretty expensive considering that they are just a little part.
I spent 37 years repairing electronics and I must say you're very good at what you do. Great troubleshooting technique!
Ivan, your use of electronics in this video is very impressive, and I found the info put forth very helpful and very educational. Thank you, my friend, for posting.
My pleasure, Harold. Glad you found it useful!
Another great diagnostic channel. Found your channel following South Main Auto Repair, wasn't disappointed. Brilliant video!
I didnt realize you have a channel! This is great!!! Remember the DEBOK is a registered trademark- I normally get significant royalties for its use, but I'll give you a pass for doing a great job!
Seriously- great job bro. This one reminds me of one of my favorite viewer comments: "You know you're a 2%er when you get frustrated at an intermittent problem fixing itself instead of being happy about it like everyone else does".
Schrodingers Box Hey Matt, thanks for the feedback! Yeah just testing the RUclips waters at this point. What's the DE in DEBOK?? It's definitely tough with intermittent issues sometimes. I spent three days once getting a Kia Amanti throttle body to act up and go into limp-home mode, driving around with an amp clamp under the hood. Finally caught the current spike on the screen; had to be 100% on that one since a new TB cost $1000!!
motoYam82 It's the Dry Erase Board Of Knowledge lol.
Keep up the good work- get a few more vids on here and I'll give you a shout out- seemed to help for your buddy Eric!
Oh yeah duh lol...maybe I should go with WBOD: White board of Diagnostics? Appreciate the support; going to make the channel a bit more "official" once I get the website up and running. Should happen very soon!
6 people are bad mechanics! Good Job Ivan! Great Video as always.
BBB no longer offers TSBs and wiring diagrams. We apologize for the inconvenience.
I should have looked at comments earlier. Great video, but unfortunately when I went to BBB industries, I found this message-"BBB no longer offers TSBs and wiring diagrams. We apologize for the inconvenience. " I'm looking for another source to continue the repairs
AFTER ALL THE VERY USEFUL INFORMATION :) "YOU FOUND", THE ISSUE, IT STEMMED FROM THE CONNECTOR IN THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE AT THE MODULE... MAYBE A LITTLE DIELECTRIC GREASE WOULD HELP TO KEEP THE CONNECTIONS CLEAN AND DRY... MY PROFESSION IS VEHICULAR ELECTRIC, YOUR TECHNIQUE IS VERY SIMILAR TO MINE... EXCELLENT JOB!!!!
It's a clock spring ! Not a coil lol you make great videos man
In many cases the airbag light comes on because of the connection under the seat. I cleaned mine and never another problem.
Which wire do you clean?
@@picturemerollin21401 yellow connector , make sure battery has been disconnected for at least 15 minutes prior
Fixed my Duramax today. 1’airbag sensor on middle of radiator bracket. Not 2 like the 1500 models. B0103 code. Both batteries died also today. Bought new interstate brand. so replaced sensor while batteries were out of truck. Truck runs better with new batteries and lights are brighter and truck has more power.
Hi Ivan - hey nobody in Avoca NY told us you were making vids :) nice vid look forward to more.
Ivan is the man ,don't worry he will fix it
Great job explaining everything but what was your over all diagnosis to fix the problem
I know this is an old video. But I heard you should never test airbag squibs with an ohm meter. The dvom uses a low voltage to test for ohms and the current being passed through the squib can be enough to detonate the air bag. A safer test is to put four 10 ohm resistors in parallel (just an easy way to make 2.5 ohms), jump the pins on the module side, and the code should go away. Then you can just remove the air bag from the steering wheel and put the same four 10 ohm resistors into the wires, plug the connector back in, and if the code comes back you know there is an open between the connector and the airbag (99.9% clockspring). If the code is still gone, you know the squib is open circuited.
Interesting. How does the module itself test the resistance of the airbag?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I don't know to be honest as I am not specialized in airbag systems and I only heard the tip from a forum that you should not use a dvom, because even a AAA battery with 1.5V apparently can blow the airbag, so I've heard, and most dvoms use around 1-2 volts to measure resistance, meaning a dvom can theoretically blow an airbag.
The air bag modules must send either lower voltages or lower currents in order to check for circuit resistance, but since the engineers building the srs module know how much current is needed to blow the bag, and the dvom manufacturers do not know, it is better to be safe than sorry. I am by no means criticizing your work or telling you what not to do, but just sharing my background knowledge.
BBBind no longer offers TSBs and wiring diagrams. Just in case anyone sees this video
Just unplug your impact sensor modules. Spray a little contact cleaner, and put some dielectric grease on the connector. Saves about $150.00 for sensors and several hours of diagnostic repair. 😊
great video .great work!big thumb up!
Thanks
Currently diagnosing exactly the same issue on same city fleet truck
Previous technician threw a bunch of parts at it, 6mos ago
Naturally it didn’t fix it
Honestly thinking SRS module
As Eric would say, "There's your problem right there!" as you point to the bow tie on the front grill. 😁
Nice work Ivan and it does look like you have a pin to pin issue inside the connector since it went away. Keep up the good work.
Good morning Terry. What's your thoughts on using a low amp clamp with your scope to monitor a wire upstream during a wiggle test vs back probing for voltage at the connector ?
Steve Rob Good morning back to you Steve and hope you're doing well! In Ivan's case, an amp clamp would be pretty much useless because the amperage would be so LOW. Most of the amp probes wouldn't be sensitive enough to measure such a low amperage. But there are specialty amp probes that can measure accurately in the low milliamp range. The drawback is that those jokers are very expensive. Here is an example of one from fluke and it runs close to $600. www.fluke.com/fluke/vnen/Process-Calibration-Tools/Loop-Calibrators/Fluke-771-772-773.htm?PID=56128
stuzman52 Terry is right on the ball here :) Wouldn't use a traditional amp clamp for anything lower that 500mA, which is most sensing circuits (most can't flow enough current to even light a test light!) So voltage measurements with a graphing meter are definitely the way to go for finding intermittent wiring breaks.
Wow that fluke is the ticket for someone that's into diagnostics , down to 4 ma. I like everything from fluke , pricy but safe and dependable.
GREAT information! thanks for that site. I saved that!
I wish you were in NYC. I got B0081_00 on my Cadillac escalade 2010 and it appeared one day after I left vehicle with lights on and battery died. After I changed battery and installed terminals I got a code. I don't know what should I do.
Nice work! Hope my issue is the same fix!
I have a 2013 Silverado that shows an intermittent airbag light/service airbag. I have seen problems with connectors on the front of this truck. Pulling the connector apart, making sure it is clean and then using silicone grease to repel any moisture may correct the problem and would be the first thing I would try before easter-egging parts. This should also prevent moisture from being an ongoing issue.
Been 7 years. Did you ever figure it out? I had the same codes but had nothing to do with wiring or driver side. Message back if you want to know what problem I found and, although haven't fixed, but know what the issue is.
The truck in this video is still on the road, no Airbag light 😉👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics . My 2003 silversdo has the same air bag codes. Skipping ahead to the problem was this: while re-upholstering the passenger seat, I found there was a clear oily substance all over the underside. Long story short, there is an airbag weight sensor that had cracked and leaked out. Looks similar to bubble wrap with clear oil inside. Anyway, the end of it (where passenger thighs would sit), was cracked all the way across. In addition, I noticed that my airbag message would not appear if there was a passenger in that seat. I haven't been able to find the part although I do have a picture of it and the part number on the air hose that connects to an electrical connector.
great video Ivan..where do you get your multimeter leads and backprobing accessories?
Ivan I fix a lot of them by removing the shorting bar the shorting bar is for shipping so they don’t deploy
what version is verus snap on -i want one?you are my inspiration!
Gm has a tsb about terminal fretting which may be the issue here. Don't ya hate when your trying to diagnose something and the problem disappears!
Thanks brother for showing us your knowledge, hey I have a 2017 Ford F-350 6.7 and I have this code U0557 and do you have any idea what can be, or what I have to check first, thanks again for your wonderful videos,
I've never had to do an airbag diagnosis. I was under the impression doing resistance tests and in fact even voltage tests might cause deployment. What is the actual combination of events that would cause deployment?
Schrodingers Box Hah yeah it can be a bit unnerving if you listen to all the horror tales. Airbag systems have many fail-safe mechanisms. The only way to deploy the airbag is to short out the two wires going to an impact sensor (simulating an impact). Reading service data, in general the deployment current is >10 amps, and more importantly the deployment voltage is either 24 or 42V, which is why the module uses capacitors in series to deliver the sudden rush of current at the higher voltage. So careful probing with a voltmeter isn't going to set anything off.
Still, you have to think about what you are probing and use your head :)
+motoYam82 good to know... maybe one of you guys can do a more in depth coverage...
Hahaha I say Let Ivan do it! I know full well that I'll only end up with the most viral automotive repair video in RUclips history if I cover airbags!!
+motoYam82 You're right. Airbags are not bombs just waiting to go off at the slightest hair trigger. I've worked with many airbags, testing the with DVOM,s and connecting/disconnecting them without even having the battery disconnected. I have also deployed a couple of them intentionally just for fun :-) And FYI, they will deploy from just 12 volts with high amps.
We are at 3 generations of airbags. It is my understanding that the first and second can be deployed at 1.6 amps and will NOT deploy at . 800 mA .Connectors, used to be only yellow and that is now gone,.. they can be any color and no longer bundled separately. They are now wrapped in the standard looms.
I would like to know more and be comfortable servicing these units.
Ivan, I have an 04 Escalade I believe has a similar issue, unfortunately I do not have a scope but I measured the voltage at the connector for the left front impact sensor, grey wire (high side) is 8v or so (not accurate I know) and the yellow only shows .04v. Only code is for sensor performance B0100, i had tried swapping the sensor with another used one. Resistance is only .1 ohms from front connector to c204 behind the kick, and voltage is the same with c204 unplugged. I used wd40 on the connector to the srs module under the seat, I'll be ordering some deoxit soon! My question is do the impact sensors see a similar signal as the pins you checked in these videos? (Didn't think to check the pins to the right sensor yet🤷♀️) thank you for the awesome videos!
Not sure, but definitely compare to the right sensor; they should be the same. Swap sensors left to right, reset the codes, and check again. Impact sensor is a common failure on those trucks.
I'll try when I get home tonight thanks for the reply! Love the video on the pressurized air bleed also I just replaced all the brake lines and the ABS unit so I'll definitely be using that as well!
Ivan I forgot to tell you I work with a air bag place out of Dallas and they told me the shorting bars get weak and they tell me to remove them I remove a lot of them I always thought you needed them and they tell me to remove it
Im having the same issue. 2005 silverado airbag light stays on. I need a vin inspection done. They wont do it with that light on. B0044- B0101 codes came up. Took it to 2 different mechanics. They had the truck for. Month. Came back supposedly fixed. Was working until i was going to take it to get inspected. Then bam the light stayed on. And this is how i came across u channel lol looking for answers and fixes
I know you did resistance checks but I could not asertain wether those values where cuasing the code or the natuaral state of connectors and wiring
Nice vídeos 👍🏻
Hi Ivan, this video and the part 2 is amazing, it's just what I was looking for to have an idea about it. I have a Chevy TrailBlazer 2007, 5.3L and I have these codes B0042 and B0022. Do you have any idea what is happening.Apparently is a circuit issue. I used a contact cleaner and nothing, and the mechanic put a resistance to prove and nothing.If you have any advise I will really appreciate your help my dear friend.
I have a 2003 Monte Carlo ss 3.8 and my air bag light stays on how can I turn it off with out doing any damage cause I have no scan tool
I hav no codes on scan tool but airbag light is on. Any fix?
Same
Smart ass comment # 14574
Ck gas cap, opened gas door yep gas caps there.
Ck engine light Opened hood yep engines there.
Ck airbag. Looked in passanger set yep wife's there.
So what did you really do turn the light off, you lost me with all the volts stuff
Ramiro Martinez no.prenden.lad.fel.tableto
He moved the connector pins around. Apparently there was a bad connection.
OK Ivan this one is bugging me so basically I have seen diagnostic stradegys from manufacurer saying unplug and plug it back in was this a situation where the circuit is so sensitive the line just creates a problem for certain circuits like the air bag circuit basically what you did to fix it was go down and mess with connectors unplug and plug them back in the regain proper continuity where you should have had proper continuity I stand still inmtimitaded by air bag circuits DAM IT
Hi
Do have any idea how to fix the issue with 05 Yukon traction control kicking in all the time for no reason, and also activating abs ,
Causing the car to not move in middle of an intersection
Ha I have a video on that exact problem...here ya go ;) ruclips.net/video/9Isdiqu_gK4/видео.html
Man. BBB Industries no longer offers TSBs and wiring diagrams 😢
My 03 silverado 1500 is doing the exact thing same codes popping up and disappearing
What is the link to get wire diagrams?
I removed my steering wheel airbag to access the wiring for my SWC I don’t think it shows the airbag light but i do have the. Service air bag on the screen. I had the battery disconnected about a day before removing and the same when installing. Never been deployed and plugged in. Same order I took out with 2 the two connects. Could it be a fuse I blew causing it to trigger if anyone has experience. It’s a 2006 Sierra.
09090 make sure stop at front office I miss you in love u
so were was the problem under the seat.
sorry no quick message radio matched description 93 stolen Chevy on 11/24/2020 no Triton or 412 on any swaps wipde
Hi & where can I buy an scanner like that
Hello. I have a 2008 GMC Savana 2500 6.0. It has a code B0091 front end sensor 3. Do you know the physical location of this sensor? Thanks.
I have a 2007 Chevy Cargo Van. No loos wires or connections. The airbag blinks and then it stays on. The drivers seat recognizes me sitting in it with the seat belt unbuckled . The passengers seat does not recognize me. I can sit in passenger seat and seat belt light will not come on. I pulled the seat out and unplugged it and same problem, airbag light on and no seat belt light. I pulled back the vinyl seat covers and see a module with a ribbon cable going to a pad. Could the seat module/ribbon cable pad be open??
scan for codes.
yeah we all have 5000 snap on scanners lmao
I have a 99 chevrolet blazer airbag light on I've tested through airbag system getting 2.5ohms on airbag with shorting bar disengaged reading volts from sdm is 9volts with airbag unplugged code was passenger loop open I show no circuit problems at connectors behind glove box
Check the resistance of the entire circuit from the airbag module as shown in this vid...
You MF Rock Fuck all the negative comments 👍
bbb no longer offers wiring diagrams
that truck has the shitty plastic Pro-Tec bed on it. its a composite plastic. if it breaks you wont be able to get a new one as they are discontinued
Save all the hastle.....if you ever see a service airbag light on a chevy its the sensor dude LMAO. :P
Rusty Nail just changed my sensors and it came right back on
My 2006 GMC Sierra has the same problem . Service airbag for 4 years now 👍🇨🇦
BBB Industry no longer has wiring diagrams. Sad update.
I have a 2004 subaru forester that had been backed into hard enough to deploy both air bags, I replace the bags and the light is still on, do you think something other than the bags could have been damaged, I also had to replace the connector on the steering wheel bag wire,
You would have to scan for body trouble codes and go from there. Often
you have to replace and/or reset/reprogram the main airbag module as it
is a one-time use module.
I thought the air bag system was not serviceable I got that problem on my 08 impala reset the computer half a dozen times and I do not know what to do dealer can not find the problem I think my car has a serious electrical problem can you help
Sure, bring your vehicle to me for a diagnosis! I'm located in State College, PA.
bbb industries is now gone. any alternative
When electronics where Japanese made I only ever replaced them if customers wanted upgrades or broke it, then the chinese landfill started to swamp everything and nothing worked right and failed in less than a year. Decades of rubbish and getting to the norm of junk out of box now.
My light is on right now
my service air bags is on & on my truck 04 Silverado what is the problem
Sorry I'm not magician lol
That's like saying your check engine light is on and you have an 04 Silverado, what's the problem? So little info, it's not even funny.
Don’t waste your time replace the sensor underneath the truck. Wow really all that bs for no answer wow.
Wheres that sensor location
I have a similar problem, and have replaced the sensor with no resolution..now what wise ass! This guy isbtrying to help because it's not always that simple!
Where is that sensor?and how do you remove alarm code after you replace it ?
The sensor is under the radiator behind the bumper. There is one for each side. They are held on with one bolt and a clip that holds the wires. There is a safety on the clip that prevents it from coming undone un-intentionally. They are pretty expensive considering that they are just a little part.
@@chrisphillips3354
How do you remove warning light after you replace and how expensive are they?
Surprised it dont say service 4wd
Just a small critique next time blur out the legitimate vin number
Great fucking video THANK YOU
Waist of time 😢 too much dragging out how to fix it an everyone don't have all that equipment to test
This was from 9 YEARS ago...like my first video haha!
Have become much more efficient in diagnostics since the early days :)
Too much useless information about computers
@@kenbabcock252 it's useful if you actually want to fix the problem 😜