Anyone who needs bolt size just did it today. I used a m6-1.0 and 60mm long. You can use longer but 60mm was plenty for me it doesn't stick out and will sit almost flush with the tensioner all the way out. Only cost me $1.11 at ace hardware for bolt and nut. & make sure you get a bolt that has threads all the way to the head.
+shandon williams hey shandon...you successfully did this mod? i'm about to do it myself. i would assume after removing the spring, you don't need to put the small rubber plug back in?
+wbrudi28 I put the plug back in but its not really necessary. When its mounted back up you dont need to worry about the plug, its more for the spring.
+Tepco Cycle Repair thank you both for the quick help...brought it to a backyard mechanic since i was weary doing it alone. turns out my valves were out at .007 & .010, and that quieted the motor down to where it should be! thank god. but i will definitely keep this mod in mind! thanks again
+shandon williams thank you both for the quick help...brought it to a backyard mechanic since i was weary doing it alone. turns out my valves were out at .007 & .010, and that quieted the motor down to where it should be! thank god. but i will definitely keep this mod in mind! thanks again
My motorcycle is CB400SS, one of the JDM.And XR400 is the ancister for this model. This video is the one of the most informative vid for me because I had changed this week parts twice already in 50,000km. Thank you!
Mate, i owe you a beer or 2. Took tensioner out and found it was stuffed. Went down to local harware store and bought a m6x75mm bolt and nut($5). Followed your easy instructions.Started the bike and turned bolt till rattling noise dissapeared then locked the nut. Job done! You saved me alot of dramas. Was going to pull head off till i seen this vid.It actually cost me $2.40 not $5
Haven't had a single issue with it since I turned it into a manual adjuster. I kept the o-ring that sits behind the phillips head screw that covers the flat head locker and put a washer over it behind the nut that locks the whole screw shaft in place. Because I was getting quite a bit of oil leaking from around the lock nut.
Looks like a good fix. I’m going to add a flat washer and original oring back, sandwiched between the jam nut and the tensioner to simulate the screw head/oring combination that was there to seal in oil, seal out dirt and water
Thanks for vid, worked well! I also had an issue with the tensioner not pushing back in. I had to put in a few more washers to prop the cylindar sleeve up a bit more so tensioner didn't rest on the sleeve lip after being fully extended.
Hi tepco1, I just had the same issue. My F4i (same year as the XR) had the exact same CCT problem and I replaced that one with a manual CCT. The rattle in the F4i was just some vibration on releasing the throttle but on the XR it was as if the bike was about to rattle apart at any RPM. And the cam chain would hammer the crap out of the CCT... that's what was making the huge noise on the XR (awkward when I'm in the CBD... it's a motard). Anyway... I'm about to try this mod out. I'll have to take it to the shops and find a bolt with the right thread. Cheers.
Excellent tip! Thanks! I just did mine and it took 10 minutes.. Do I have to worry about oil leaking out where I removed the phillip screw and replaced with my new "adjuster" bolt?
The year wont determined if it needs a belt or not. Its the wear and tear bassed on hrs and riding style. But I will say its common for the auto tensioner spring to break as it did on this unit, so I would start by pulling your tensioned out and looking at it. When you pull it out the spring should push the tensioned all the way out. If it doesn't and the tensioner is in the body, the spring is broken.
This is also the same for all the crf bikes alteast the early models(the later models are similar yet) also-you could even reuse the remaining broken coil spring by kinking the ends and coil it to proper tension(in a bind)
Awesome video bro. This will help me out for sure on my 07 400 ex. When the quad is running there is a slight rattling noise and i believe it is the cam chain tensioner. This should save me around 60 bucks. 1 questiong though... what about the O ring that you took out at the beginning of the video? Will that not need to go back on?
awesome video buddy,ur the man....my trx is a 2005 and making that timming slapping sound,do u think since its a 2005 i should just buy a new timming chain & tensioner or just the tensioner?...i apprciate ur help buddy.godbless u
Sorry I don't have the bike anymore so I cant check the threads for you. I remember it being a pretty standard metric bolt, like 8mmX1.25 pitch, but not completely sure.
also, I purchased a new tensioner (HONDA xr400), and it has a blue dot on one of the side. I do not think /know, should that be aligned to any side of the bike or not important?
how to tell that NOT the timing chain is "stretched" but maybe the tensioner is worn/spring broken etc? I also have ticking noise, also on idle, and I hear the tempo of the ticking "not" like the tempo of the valves, but at the tempo of the main shaft... :-(
John Huston it can, if it jumps enough the piston will hit and bend the valves. A leak down test is the best way to check, without disassembling. If they are bent bad, check your valves the gap will be extra large because the valve can't close all the way.
If you cam chain got very loose and skipped a tooth, yes. If your ATV has spark and the carb is clean (especially the pilot jet) and has good compression, it may be your timing is off.
With the original screw in there (the one i remove) it would be difficult if not impossible to find the right spring size/tension. If you take the screw out and just put in a spring, it will bounce and not work.
With the original screw in there (the one i remove) it would be difficult if not impossible to find the right spring size/tension. If you take the screw out and just put in a spring, it will bounce and not work.
if the spring too big get a knot or washer just put in the top of the spring.. and if the spring too long just cut it ive read some modding tensioner with pressure spring in other bikes
Anyone who needs bolt size just did it today. I used a m6-1.0 and 60mm long. You can use longer but 60mm was plenty for me it doesn't stick out and will sit almost flush with the tensioner all the way out. Only cost me $1.11 at ace hardware for bolt and nut. & make sure you get a bolt that has threads all the way to the head.
+shandon williams hey shandon...you successfully did this mod? i'm about to do it myself. i would assume after removing the spring, you don't need to put the small rubber plug back in?
+wbrudi28 I forgot what's all in side. but you can send me some pics of all the pieces you have and I'll tell you how to put it together.
kik-shan243
+wbrudi28 I put the plug back in but its not really necessary. When its mounted back up you dont need to worry about the plug, its more for the spring.
+Tepco Cycle Repair thank you both for the quick help...brought it to a backyard mechanic since i was weary doing it alone. turns out my valves were out at .007 & .010, and that quieted the motor down to where it should be! thank god. but i will definitely keep this mod in mind! thanks again
+shandon williams thank you both for the quick help...brought it to a backyard mechanic since i was weary doing it alone. turns out my valves were out at .007 & .010, and that quieted the motor down to where it should be! thank god. but i will definitely keep this mod in mind! thanks again
My motorcycle is CB400SS, one of the JDM.And XR400 is the ancister for this model.
This video is the one of the most informative vid for me because I had changed this week parts twice already in 50,000km. Thank you!
Mate, i owe you a beer or 2. Took tensioner out and found it was stuffed. Went down to local harware store and bought a m6x75mm bolt and nut($5). Followed your easy instructions.Started the bike and turned bolt till rattling noise dissapeared then locked the nut. Job done! You saved me alot of dramas. Was going to pull head off till i seen this vid.It actually cost me $2.40 not $5
Haven't had a single issue with it since I turned it into a manual adjuster. I kept the o-ring that sits behind the phillips head screw that covers the flat head locker and put a washer over it behind the nut that locks the whole screw shaft in place. Because I was getting quite a bit of oil leaking from around the lock nut.
+Jason Axford yes good idea to add the oring and washer as long as the lock nut is tight.
+Tepco Cycle Repair just answered my question i just posted. Thanks! Sorry i didnt read before I posted. Either way, great simple fix!
Looks like a good fix. I’m going to add a flat washer and original oring back, sandwiched between the jam nut and the tensioner to simulate the screw head/oring combination that was there to seal in oil, seal out dirt and water
Perfect, that should work great!
Thanks for vid, worked well! I also had an issue with the tensioner not pushing back in. I had to put in a few more washers to prop the cylindar sleeve up a bit more so tensioner didn't rest on the sleeve lip after being fully extended.
Hi tepco1, I just had the same issue. My F4i (same year as the XR) had the exact same CCT problem and I replaced that one with a manual CCT. The rattle in the F4i was just some vibration on releasing the throttle but on the XR it was as if the bike was about to rattle apart at any RPM. And the cam chain would hammer the crap out of the CCT... that's what was making the huge noise on the XR (awkward when I'm in the CBD... it's a motard). Anyway... I'm about to try this mod out. I'll have to take it to the shops and find a bolt with the right thread. Cheers.
Thank you for the video. Been through 2 tensioners this year already.
Excellent tip! Thanks! I just did mine and it took 10 minutes.. Do I have to worry about oil leaking out where I removed the phillip screw and replaced with my new "adjuster" bolt?
Thanks for posting this video. Very helpful.
The year wont determined if it needs a belt or not. Its the wear and tear bassed on hrs and riding style. But I will say its common for the auto tensioner spring to break as it did on this unit, so I would start by pulling your tensioned out and looking at it. When you pull it out the spring should push the tensioned all the way out. If it doesn't and the tensioner is in the body, the spring is broken.
This is also the same for all the crf bikes alteast the early models(the later models are similar yet) also-you could even reuse the remaining broken coil spring by kinking the ends and coil it to proper tension(in a bind)
Awesome video bro. This will help me out for sure on my 07 400 ex. When the quad is running there is a slight rattling noise and i believe it is the cam chain tensioner. This should save me around 60 bucks. 1 questiong though... what about the O ring that you took out at the beginning of the video? Will that not need to go back on?
Thankyou sir, you are a legend. Great video
awesome video buddy,ur the man....my trx is a 2005 and making that timming slapping sound,do u think since its a 2005 i should just buy a new timming chain & tensioner or just the tensioner?...i apprciate ur help buddy.godbless u
No need to take the head off. Just the two bolts that hold the tensioner on. GL
thanks for video, it works on my honda crf saving me £80 .
Great glad it helped!
Great idea - thanks for sharing 👍
also, where you put in a threaded bolt into the tensioner, there was a "cap" on that with a rubber seal, will some oil not come out there???
You can put a o-ring and washer if oil leaks.
Sorry I don't have the bike anymore so I cant check the threads for you. I remember it being a pretty standard metric bolt, like 8mmX1.25 pitch, but not completely sure.
Had the same problem with mine and this did work but it was hard as hell trying to get my hand in there to adjust it
also, I purchased a new tensioner (HONDA xr400), and it has a blue dot on one of the side. I do not think /know, should that be aligned to any side of the bike or not important?
It shouldn't matter,
blue dot up so the oil will go into the tensioner and stay there, so spring slot in housing is UP
So this is a common failure on a 2000 xr400r?
On all the engines like this when they get old.
I can hear it on my 2000 currently. Gonna do this instead of replace with another $115 automatic tensioner that'll eventually fail anyways.
how to tell that NOT the timing chain is "stretched" but maybe the tensioner is worn/spring broken etc? I also have ticking noise, also on idle, and I hear the tempo of the ticking "not" like the tempo of the valves, but at the tempo of the main shaft... :-(
Best to pull the head to look at the tensioner if you feel its broken.
When it jumps time does it warp the vavles. How do I check
John Huston it can, if it jumps enough the piston will hit and bend the valves. A leak down test is the best way to check, without disassembling. If they are bent bad, check your valves the gap will be extra large because the valve can't close all the way.
Can this prevent your bike from starting?
If you cam chain got very loose and skipped a tooth, yes. If your ATV has spark and the carb is clean (especially the pilot jet) and has good compression, it may be your timing is off.
where is this on the bike and do you have to drain the oil to remove it?
No need to drain the oil. Its on the back of the cylinder you can get to it from the right side of the atv.
+Tepco Cycle Repair okay thanks, would you say the engine has kind of a ticking noise when the tentioner isn't working
+Charlie Wirtz yes it will tick sometimes mistaken as a valve tick. It will be obvious if its broken when you take it out.
+Tepco Cycle Repair okay thanks again, your video helps a lot btw
Can u make a video of how to replace the timeing chain for me please
Sorry, I no longer have that ATV. I was working on it for a friend.
ok thank u
The stock end cap had a o ring in it i'd think it would weak oil without it.
Bond james bond Yes I spoke about it in an earlier post. You can add an oring under the nut.
Good one bro
Very goodd!!
just put a pressure spring inside the tensioner.. solve😊
With the original screw in there (the one i remove) it would be difficult if not impossible to find the right spring size/tension. If you take the screw out and just put in a spring, it will bounce and not work.
With the original screw in there (the one i remove) it would be difficult if not impossible to find the right spring size/tension. If you take the screw out and just put in a spring, it will bounce and not work.
if the spring too big get a knot or washer just put in the top of the spring.. and if the spring too long just cut it ive read some modding tensioner with pressure spring in other bikes