Love the way this recipe was delivered with options for hops and yeast. This is so helpful in understanding how each modification would impact the final brew. Thanks!
David. Love your videos. I named my 5 month old son David as well, and as it happens our last name is Heath. Now, before you get any ideas I named him before I started watching your videos. But I can say I hope he finds the love of brewing as much as you and his father, Jeff.
Great recipe! Love all those hops in there. Very interesting choice that I like you chose some classic less expensive hops. These varieties often get overlooked for the latest greatest hops when some of the classic hops produce great flavors and aromas. Great video and recipe! Cheers David! 👍🍻
Hey Brian, thanks glad you enjoyed it. Yes I really wanted to get back to the classics. In all honesty I much prefer them. Same with classic American IPA styles also. I think its easy to lose sight of the real champions amongst all these new styles. Looking forward to your next video by the way!
Still working on it..had a little delay in getting to the plumbing but should be wrapping that up soon. Then it will be faster progress with insulation and framing etc..thanks for asking! 👍🍻
Thanks for another great video David, it's really helpful especially with the demonstration on how to resolve common issues. Also, being very new to all grain I'd never heard of this hoping method but I am very keen to try it out.
Another great video David. I learn so much from your videos, and have put into practice a lot of your advice, which is helping me produce better beer. 🍻
Hi David. I very much enjoy your videos! Thanks a lot for your work. I just brewed this recipe. I split the wort into two fermenters with one with M44 and the other with Nottingham. I just finished fermentation in the primary and I planning to dryhop the second fermenter differently. Therefore I do with one the original receipe and the other will be my freestyle :-) Will be fun tasting them side by side. Cheers Lukas
Thanks for another great video, David! I can’t wrap my head around how you can throttle the pump on full speed NOT getting wort flow down the overflow pipe... I think I’ve tried it all, but I always have to throttle back a bit to keep it under the overflow level. And also my mash efficiency is a real roller coaster as well. Me and Grainfather isn’t really best friends so far.. ;)
I think you will find that if you adjust your grain crush this will change. Try drilling slower. There is a fine line here and its hard to get it perfect every time :)
Last brew I drilled really slow and crushed the grains as coarse I could without getting whole grains trough the mill. But still I needed to throttle down the valve.. Also got 10 points lower pre boil gravity than expected with a estimated 73% BHE.. A little bit disappointing I must say. ;) Can I ask what equipment profile you are using? Would you mind sharing it? Perhaps my volumes are off or something. Thanks again!
Do not forget that there are many variables in brewing. Beer calculators only provide estimates. Different calculators will give you different results also. I have recipes in beer smith but I do not use it for calculating anything else. For that I use the GF recipe tools.
Excellent! After the Christmas stout I want to make a hoppy American beer so I ordered tons of American hops, Simcoe, Mosaic, Citra, Columbus, Cascade, Warrior and Chinook. Then I figured I'd find some tips how to combine them and all of them recommended to combine with... Amarillo! The one I didn't order of course! So I'm glad to see your recipe doesn't use it. And I even ordered the M44 yeast, lucky me :) I used all my Munich malt for the stout though and I have no Carapils but I have Aromatic malt, Pilsner malt and Cara Gold. I think I'll experiment a little with those.
Sounds good! Be careful with that aromatic malt...Mostly its 5-10% of the grain bill max. This can vary depending on the malt producer. Its better less than 5% usually. It can easily overtake a beers flavour. For an IPA its probably best to stick with the Pilsner and cara gold and get some munich if you want to try the Hop Head.
David: thanks for the tip CMDR: I hear people raving about Galaxy, I have to pick that one up at some point but my homebrew shop is all out of Australian hops at the moment. El Dorado I considered too, I guess I'll get that one the next time I order stuff.
I love El Dorado, its tricky to get at times here in Norway though. Carapils is indeed a brand but its one I really like, so I suggest it. I did add into the video about using low ebc crystal if you cannot get it though :)
Hi David I have just bought myself a whirlpool paddle and intend to use it on my next brew. I notice in this video you pause the timer to sterilise the counterflow chiller. Do you turn off the heat at this point or let it continue to boil? If you do turn off the heat do you bring it back to the boil before adding flameout addition? Thanks in advance.
I am new to homebrewing and have trouble understanding some terminology. I cannot understand what mash in, mash out, and recirculation means. Please clarify those words for me. I plan on doing BIAB because cleaning becomes easier. How does that choice change the procedure for me?
Nice to hear from you Hirdesh. Mash in is effectively an early stage of the brewing process where the milled grains are mixed into your brewing water either within a pot or brewing system. With BIAB this is a bag. The process it made at a set temperature. Recirculation can take place during this time (usually 1 hour) to assist with efficiency. After the time “mash out” is finished. This is putting the sugars into your wort via a chemical process. Mash out takes place after this usually for 10 minutes. This lossens the grain ready for the next step. Usually in BIAB this next step is skipped as is mash out. Hope this helps. I have many videos on this channel that show this process and well as other related information. I hope it also helps you :)
I might not know what I am talking about but I thought you want to add the hops @60 min to get the maximum possible extraction. I thought that if you perform late additions or dry hop then you lose extraction efficiency.
By the way, I had a smashing result with the stout! I used all your tricks: add grains slowly and work it in properly at first, at half time I stopped the timer and moved the grain around a bit. I sparged slowly and then I did a proper whirlpool at the end of the boil and let it stand for a while. I forgot to take pre-boil gravity so I don't know my mash efficiency but I scaled up the recipe on the grainfather site to 24L but I got 24.5 liters in the fermenter with at least another liter left in the Grainfather, at 1.066 OG, even though I used less lactose than suggested, I only had one 250gr bag but the Grainfather site said to use 341 grams.
Sounds like you are taking to this well , good result! Really its easy once you know how. The main problem is there is so many people giving bad advice out there. This was the main reason I started this channel.
Yes, and I thank you for that :) You have some great recipes on here and good tips too! I also concur with the other commenters that the quality of the videos have really improved over the years!
My Stout has been in primary for 8 days now so I just transferred into a carboy for conditioning. It stopped bubbling after just a couple of days and when I took a gravity reading just now I got 1.032! Why so high? I used Liberty Bell and the basement it's fermenting in is at a constant 18 degrees C, which the yeast is supposed to like. It doesn't taste bad or anything. Why won't it ferment properly?
8 days is very short. Its best to take a gravity readings before transfer to conditioning. Best thing now is to get everything sanitary and clean again and transfer it back into a fermenter. You really should leave it at least 10 days before taking the first reading. Then take 2 further readings on the next two days. If there is no change then its ready to transfer. You need 3 consistent days FG wise before its done :)
So you think it will go down further? That's good to hear. I put it in a 23L carboy filled to the brim (almost) with an air lock and I intend to let it sit there until the first week in december as a secondary fermentation/conditioning when I'll bottle it.
Hi David....thanks for sharing this recipe, and your experience on cont hop additions...sounds delicious.... I used to live very close to dogfish brewery and must say that them and Sam Adams are the culprit of me growing as a ipa lover.....I remember still when they introduce the called 90 min continuos addition....David in this recipe did you add any fining agents ...and if yes which one good old gelatin or any other beside the Irish moss or Whirlfloc....thanks
I would suggest starting at 18C and then after a week raise at 1C per day until you reach 21C . Once you have a stable FG for 3 days then consider it done.
I am curious if you are using a higher power level (leaving all elements on) after hitting the boil or if you are getting enough boil off in 30 minutes normally to eliminate DMS?
The heating elements are used at the standard power level and remain on during the boil. DMS from malt is not much of a concern these days as SMM levels in malt are at very low levels due to advancements in the malting process. So a 30 minute boil is a really of no issue. You are far more likely to pick up DMS from fermentation, if a diacetyl rest is not used.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew interesting, I was not aware that DMS was less of a concern these days from the malt/mash. I have never detected it in my own beers but always ensure I am getting at least a 10% boil off rate so I assumed it was my process :). Thanks for your response, I don't know why I didn't know about your channel until a couple weeks ago but I have been enjoying and learning from your back catalogue. It's pretty rare at this point in my brewing career (trying to open a craft brewery) that I come across a home brew channel where I am getting more than entertainment from it. Thank you.
Great. Yes things just keep moving forward, the advances are staggering in so many areas compared to when I first started. Good luck with the brewery, as things stand in most places I should think timing will be key. I know a lot of out of work brewers right now sadly.
Hi, The process of stirring is a case of stirring the top protein to encourage that protein to drop down. I use a backwards and forwards motion mostly and within some minutes its dropped. You will probably see more come duing the boil, so be ready to stir this back in also. Some brewers believe that removing the protein is better, generally they feel they get a cleaner wort this way. Ive tried both ways and prefer the result with the protein still in taste wise. I would urge you to do your own tests and see what you prefer, its a question of taste but also environment. Brewing is made up of so many variables after all.
Hey David, do you keg or bottle this. I generally bottle and I don't seem to get very juicy IPAs, they can be bitter, yes, but juicy no. I am going to give this recipe a shot and see what happens.
Great Video, so very helpful, I've just had 2 stuck mash's and was at wits end with my Grainfather! I was unaware of rice husks what a great fix! Anyway just by stirring I still managed to get 70% efficiency and the same gravity figure as predicted. How do you measure the amount of rice husks to add, is there a rule of thumb or a ball park figure? It'd be great if there was an inclusive index of your videos so helping to fill the gap with the rather scant instructions provided by GF.
Great to hear Eve, thank you. Rice or oat hulls are very light and as such it is hard to give you a suggestion by weight.I measure out my rice hulls by the handful. Its not very precise but it doesn't really need to be. My rule of thumb for a regular full sized batch is as follows:- 1 handful will be enough for a minor issue like a mash or sparge that just needs a little helping hand. 3 Handfuls - this is a more extreme measure and I would only use this if the mash is sticking badly, meaning there is little hope for the sparge. 2 handfuls - a good happy medium amount to use that will cover everything in between. Naturally the trick is to avoid the need for this from the start by having a graincrush that is not too fine. Naturally with brews with lots of high protein content like wheat and rye you may need hulls no matter what the crush is like. I tend to add rice hulls with brews that have 60-70% of this type of grain. Hope this helps :)
Thanks David, I've purchased a 25kg sack of Simpsons crushed Pale Malt and don't want to waste it, my supplier doesn't do rice husks but supplies oat husks, so I'll give that a go, if they're no good, I might have to import. Any chance of an inclusive video index? Cheers.............. @@DavidHeathHomebrew
@@eveannwallis4939 I believe that Oat husks will do the same job. Ive had positive feedback from others in this respect but I have never tried them myself. I have set my videos into playlists that cover various headings like recipes, brewing techniques, reviews and so on. You can view these playlists if you go into my channels main page. Does this cover what you have in mind index wise? Any suggestions much appreciated on how I might take this further, there are so many videos on my channel!
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I was thinking along the lines of an index or reference, listing topics covered, such as Stuck Mash, Fermentation etc., and where to find your advice ie a hyperlink. Perhaps this could be done as a slide-show video on your home page?
Quick question, was reading some old mate had added raisins to his boil. You ever tried that. Is it a worthy experiment or would I be heading down some sort of rabbit hole only to find myself adding half a watermelon at some point in the future...? (looking stupid)
Thanks again for a great video! learning so much every time you post something! With all the hops covering the filter, how long did it take for you to transfer the wort to the conical?
David Heath Yeah I’ve went through the grainfather cleaning every nook and cranny. I’ve tried a hop spider. Whirlpool. I think I might just have a faulty pump. Thanks for the response. Great videos by the way I am new to the grainfather and your videos truly help. Cheers
Thx for another great video! I very much liked the extra in-depth explications in this one! Is unclear wort during the mash only because of too fine a crush? In my last smash ipa the maris otter gave a very unclear wort.. probably because of the cheap corona mill.. anyhow, i luckily added some fists of ricehulls, and thanks to you, stirring the mash 2-3 times became a holy routine 😁
Hey Nick :) Certainly it can be a factor but as you saw this one cleaned up well enough. Using irish moss in the boil and whirlpooling with a stand can work wonders :)
I will certainly give the moss a try (should've started using it ages ago!) After seeing this video, i realised im probably whirlpooling too slow as well... Any more kveik videos in the pipeline? I recently fermented a belgian style Dubbel grain bill with Midtbust, which made me very happy :D
I use Irish moss in every brew, it works well. Get the super version if you can. Yes, a fast whirlpool can for sure get better results. I am experimenting with Stalljon kveik at the moment. I am thinking about a video but also perhaps a recipe in that video also. My next video will be my Christmas brew :) Its not brewed yet but Ive started planning out the script. Just looking for an open time to brew it now!
Hi @David Heat, Maybe this is a newbie question, but i just thinking of it now. How do you do with the increase of the fermetation temperature if you increase the temperature with 1 degree per day, (18 - 22 celsius), do you start the increase at day 10 of the fermentation, and then increase it in 4 days, and then do the dry hopping, and ferment another 4 days after that? what is best practice here? Thanks for your great effort :)
I generally wait 7-10 days before increasing temperature. Dry hopping is separate and done within the predicted last 3-5 days. Many ale yeasts will usually be done in 14 days total. Hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the quick reply, it really helped a lot. I did brew this today, with some problems at mash in, when stirring the mash I saw that the silicon ring popped up in the mash :) Now I will follow your advise and buy a mash rodder made of wood to avoid popping off the silicon ring. After fixing the mash problem everything went well, and I was very surprised when the OG was 1.093. Dont know if this was good or bad or if I just did something wrong when taking the OG sample. Any thoughts about that?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I took 3 samples and they did show the same results (1.093) :) Also had a fermentation lag of 48 hours. After careful shaking my conical fermentor and raising the temperature to 19 celsius it started bubbling frenetically. Now (12 hours later) i have a reading of 1.080. so lets see what this goes :D.
Hi David, a question for you about the ingredients. Actually, just about your use of the term ‘pale ale malt’. Here in North America, and maybe where you are, we have what’s usually known as ‘pale malt 2-row’ which is the everyday go-to base malt. ‘Pale ale malt’ is slightly richer than ‘..2-row’ in colour and flavour. MO and GP would belong to the latter category as would some particular American and Canadian malts. Do you make this same distinction when you use the term pale ale malt?
Hi, I go with the definitions generally used world wide. So in the case of Pale ale this would be American 2 row, though no reason to not step this up a level or 2 if you find this improves things for you. If I deviate from this then generally I will list as Maris Otter.
Hi David. Thanks for all your videos they are of great inspiration. I would like to brew your Hophead IPA and would like to use the Loki kveik yeast. how will you seize the fermentation. - Michael (Danish amateur brewer)
Hi David first off I watch most of your videos really great & helpful I have brewed a few of your recipies & they always turn out great. The Mango one is a favourite with the wife & I A couple of questions for you. Do you have a blood orange IPA recipie ? Or could I use the Mango IPA recipe ? Also do you have a Hazy IPA recipie they seem to be the current beer of the moment here in New Zealand Regards
Hi Andrew, great to hear :) You could simply replace the mango with blood orange. How much to use is the real question but I guess you will find suggestions online for that. I have not tried it, it is not so easy to get over here :)
Hey David, great work as usual. I am about to buy a grainfather and I am skeptical of the filter helpfulness. How often do you do the bicycle pump thing? do you do it with every brew? or just the heavily hoped ones? I've seen other videos in youtube where people seem to get hop blockage with just a couple ounces.
Many thanks Robero, I hardly ever have issues personally and I believe that is typical. Things do work more smoothly with a false bottom. So Know use the Robobrew false bottom with my GF for faster transfer times. Here is a video showing this:-ruclips.net/video/dwUptHvFK78/видео.html
+Roberto Vigil You should consider the Robobrew also as an option. I have a comparison video here:- Robobrew Brewzilla 3.1 vs Grainfather Full comparison 4K HD ruclips.net/video/SCfTs-j5iQU/видео.html
I did explain this in the video. Try it :) It works very well with certain recipes. Also try a no boil saison, very nice. I have a video for that also :)
Hi David, great video as usual!! Im having a slight issue though as I have tried putting your recipe into brewers friend and beersmith but the ibu’s seem to be way off compared to the grainfather s recipe creator. I have changed aa values etc but the grainfather recipe creator seems to underestimate the ibu’s by over half in some cases compared to the other two. Just for example 6g simcoe 11.4aa for 30mins in beersmith calculated 14.1ibu but the grainfather creator calculated 5ibu. Have you ever noticed this before between to different recipe creators? Cheers
Thank you for conducting your experimental “common error” - the visual demonstration allows a beginner to be able to spot the signs of impending problems and take preventative steps before it turns into a inefficient result (with a lot of head scratching at the end). On a lighter note, pronunciation is pronounced with a “nun” in the middle, not a “noun”.....🤓 Many thanks for sharing your life’s experience with the community - much appreciated.
I am now brewing my American hoppy IPA. I took some inspiration from this video but I didn't have enough hops to do the full hop sequence so I started with some Warrior for bittering and then do a series of later additions with Cascade, Simcoe and Columbus. I am also experimenting with shortening the boil to compensate for the whirlpool as I read on brulosophy.com that the whirlpool period does the same thing to the hops as a regular boil. Also, I'm adding the protafloc at flameout as I read on the manufacturers website that it loses effect if it is boiled for too long. It really only needs to be dissolved in the wort so the 10 minute whirlpool should be enough. Recipe here: brew.grainfather.com/recipes/96514.
I would like to see the finished product next time, as these are great videos.
Cheers James. This is quite an old video made at the start of my channel. All my recipe videos now include a look at the end beer and tasting notes.
Love the way this recipe was delivered with options for hops and yeast. This is so helpful in understanding how each modification would impact the final brew. Thanks!
Thanks Maxwell, glad you enjoyed it. More coming soon :)
Very clear explanation! Thanks
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
David. Love your videos. I named my 5 month old son David as well, and as it happens our last name is Heath. Now, before you get any ideas I named him before I started watching your videos. But I can say I hope he finds the love of brewing as much as you and his father, Jeff.
Hey Jeff, haha what a coincidence! The Heath name in my experience gives him a great bonus % chance to love brewing! Thanks for sharing this :)
Great recipe! Love all those hops in there. Very interesting choice that I like you chose some classic less expensive hops. These varieties often get overlooked for the latest greatest hops when some of the classic hops produce great flavors and aromas. Great video and recipe! Cheers David! 👍🍻
Hey Brian, thanks glad you enjoyed it. Yes I really wanted to get back to the classics. In all honesty I much prefer them. Same with classic American IPA styles also. I think its easy to lose sight of the real champions amongst all these new styles. Looking forward to your next video by the way!
How is you new setup going
Still working on it..had a little delay in getting to the plumbing but should be wrapping that up soon. Then it will be faster progress with insulation and framing etc..thanks for asking! 👍🍻
Thanks for another great video David, it's really helpful especially with the demonstration on how to resolve common issues. Also, being very new to all grain I'd never heard of this hoping method but I am very keen to try it out.
Thanks Joel, great to hear that it was helpful :) I really love this beer.
Great video, great humour, nice to introduce experimentation. Fresh!
Thanks Sylvain, your feedback is much appreciated :)
I love the new video format
Thank you, I am really pleased to hear that :) Thanks for the feedback!
You have me some good ideas if ever I get a stuck mash.
Great, I highly recommend this recipe also :)
Another great video David. I learn so much from your videos, and have put into practice a lot of your advice, which is helping me produce better beer. 🍻
Thank you, your feedback is much appreciated :)I am so glad the videos are helping :)
Thanks for another great video David. Really enjoying the new format.
Thank you, I am really pleased to hear that :)
Nice clear explanations - just subscribed, thanks! (would love to know how the final product tasted)
Thank you. The end beer is very tried and tested. Very good stuff for sure :)
Hi David. I very much enjoy your videos! Thanks a lot for your work. I just brewed this recipe. I split the wort into two fermenters with one with M44 and the other with Nottingham. I just finished fermentation in the primary and I planning to dryhop the second fermenter differently. Therefore I do with one the original receipe and the other will be my freestyle :-) Will be fun tasting them side by side. Cheers Lukas
Many thanks :) Sounds like a fun experiment. I imagine both will taste good :)
David Heath Hi David. The beers came out very well. But I think I will add more hops next time for dryhopping. I think I can double the amount...
Great to hear. Yes keep experimenting, thats where the real fun is :)
Thank you for sharing this recepe David. Fore sure I will try it!
Go for it Yannick, hope you enjoy the results :)
Sounds like. a plan for next brew! Thanks David
Thanks Sebastian, I do hope you enjoy this one as much as I do :)
Any plans brewing decent Kölsch or Alt David ? I’d love to make one with ur guidelines.
Kolsch would be fun to do for sure, I will add it to my list :)
David Heath cheers mate :)
Thanks for another great video, David! I can’t wrap my head around how you can throttle the pump on full speed NOT getting wort flow down the overflow pipe... I think I’ve tried it all, but I always have to throttle back a bit to keep it under the overflow level. And also my mash efficiency is a real roller coaster as well. Me and Grainfather isn’t really best friends so far.. ;)
I think you will find that if you adjust your grain crush this will change. Try drilling slower. There is a fine line here and its hard to get it perfect every time :)
Last brew I drilled really slow and crushed the grains as coarse I could without getting whole grains trough the mill. But still I needed to throttle down the valve.. Also got 10 points lower pre boil gravity than expected with a estimated 73% BHE.. A little bit disappointing I must say. ;)
Can I ask what equipment profile you are using? Would you mind sharing it? Perhaps my volumes are off or something.
Thanks again!
Do not forget that there are many variables in brewing. Beer calculators only provide estimates. Different calculators will give you different results also. I have recipes in beer smith but I do not use it for calculating anything else. For that I use the GF recipe tools.
Excellent! After the Christmas stout I want to make a hoppy American beer so I ordered tons of American hops, Simcoe, Mosaic, Citra, Columbus, Cascade, Warrior and Chinook. Then I figured I'd find some tips how to combine them and all of them recommended to combine with... Amarillo! The one I didn't order of course! So I'm glad to see your recipe doesn't use it. And I even ordered the M44 yeast, lucky me :)
I used all my Munich malt for the stout though and I have no Carapils but I have Aromatic malt, Pilsner malt and Cara Gold. I think I'll experiment a little with those.
Sounds good! Be careful with that aromatic malt...Mostly its 5-10% of the grain bill max. This can vary depending on the malt producer. Its better less than 5% usually. It can easily overtake a beers flavour. For an IPA its probably best to stick with the Pilsner and cara gold and get some munich if you want to try the Hop Head.
David: thanks for the tip
CMDR: I hear people raving about Galaxy, I have to pick that one up at some point but my homebrew shop is all out of Australian hops at the moment. El Dorado I considered too, I guess I'll get that one the next time I order stuff.
Nice, thanks!
I love El Dorado, its tricky to get at times here in Norway though. Carapils is indeed a brand but its one I really like, so I suggest it. I did add into the video about using low ebc crystal if you cannot get it though :)
Ahh ok sure. Thats good :)
Hi David I have just bought myself a whirlpool paddle and intend to use it on my next brew. I notice in this video you pause the timer to sterilise the counterflow chiller. Do you turn off the heat at this point or let it continue to boil? If you do turn off the heat do you bring it back to the boil before adding flameout addition? Thanks in advance.
Hi Lawrence, Let it continue to heat, the reason to pause the timer is that usually the temperature will drop a few deg c some minutes.
Thanks for the video David, I will brew this on saturday :)
Great to hear Benny :) This one always hits the spot for me.
What is the water profile? Great videos! Thank you!
Great to hear Andrew, thanks. I used the profile I shared in my most recent video here:- ruclips.net/video/sH4BEyKPtwU/видео.html
Got it! Thanks!
Entered all the other details in Brewers Friend. Quite the job adjusting everything based on % and ibu's! Cheers!
I am new to homebrewing and have trouble understanding some terminology. I cannot understand what mash in, mash out, and recirculation means. Please clarify those words for me. I plan on doing BIAB because cleaning becomes easier. How does that choice change the procedure for me?
Nice to hear from you Hirdesh. Mash in is effectively an early stage of the brewing process where the milled grains are mixed into your brewing water either within a pot or brewing system. With BIAB this is a bag. The process it made at a set temperature. Recirculation can take place during this time (usually 1 hour) to assist with efficiency. After the time “mash out” is finished. This is putting the sugars into your wort via a chemical process. Mash out takes place after this usually for 10 minutes. This lossens the grain ready for the next step. Usually in BIAB this next step is skipped as is mash out. Hope this helps. I have many videos on this channel that show this process and well as other related information. I hope it also helps you :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew yes that is helpful thanks very much! ^_^
Great to hear :)
I might not know what I am talking about but I thought you want to add the hops @60 min to get the maximum possible extraction. I thought that if you perform late additions or dry hop then you lose extraction efficiency.
Hi Toby, its not as cut and dry as you believe. This technique works great for extra hop flavour. Bitterness is just one aspect.
Woooow that hops deposit is crazy!😂
Haha ive done 500g before :)
Why do you use rice hulls?
They allow filtering within a stuck mash.
By the way, I had a smashing result with the stout! I used all your tricks: add grains slowly and work it in properly at first, at half time I stopped the timer and moved the grain around a bit. I sparged slowly and then I did a proper whirlpool at the end of the boil and let it stand for a while. I forgot to take pre-boil gravity so I don't know my mash efficiency but I scaled up the recipe on the grainfather site to 24L but I got 24.5 liters in the fermenter with at least another liter left in the Grainfather, at 1.066 OG, even though I used less lactose than suggested, I only had one 250gr bag but the Grainfather site said to use 341 grams.
Sounds like you are taking to this well , good result! Really its easy once you know how. The main problem is there is so many people giving bad advice out there. This was the main reason I started this channel.
Yes, and I thank you for that :) You have some great recipes on here and good tips too! I also concur with the other commenters that the quality of the videos have really improved over the years!
My Stout has been in primary for 8 days now so I just transferred into a carboy for conditioning. It stopped bubbling after just a couple of days and when I took a gravity reading just now I got 1.032! Why so high? I used Liberty Bell and the basement it's fermenting in is at a constant 18 degrees C, which the yeast is supposed to like. It doesn't taste bad or anything. Why won't it ferment properly?
8 days is very short. Its best to take a gravity readings before transfer to conditioning. Best thing now is to get everything sanitary and clean again and transfer it back into a fermenter. You really should leave it at least 10 days before taking the first reading. Then take 2 further readings on the next two days. If there is no change then its ready to transfer. You need 3 consistent days FG wise before its done :)
So you think it will go down further? That's good to hear. I put it in a 23L carboy filled to the brim (almost) with an air lock and I intend to let it sit there until the first week in december as a secondary fermentation/conditioning when I'll bottle it.
Hi David....thanks for sharing this recipe, and your experience on cont hop additions...sounds delicious.... I used to live very close to dogfish brewery and must say that them and Sam Adams are the culprit of me growing as a ipa lover.....I remember still when they introduce the called 90 min continuos addition....David in this recipe did you add any fining agents ...and if yes which one good old gelatin or any other beside the Irish moss or Whirlfloc....thanks
Glad you enjoyed it. Must be awesome living in such an area :) I just used irish moss in the boil.
David Heath Homebrew thanks David......
:)
Hi David, how long You fermented and on what temperature.
Thank You
I would suggest starting at 18C and then after a week raise at 1C per day until you reach 21C . Once you have a stable FG for 3 days then consider it done.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank You
🍻🍻🍻
🍻🍻🍻
I am curious if you are using a higher power level (leaving all elements on) after hitting the boil or if you are getting enough boil off in 30 minutes normally to eliminate DMS?
The heating elements are used at the standard power level and remain on during the boil. DMS from malt is not much of a concern these days as SMM levels in malt are at very low levels due to advancements in the malting process. So a 30 minute boil is a really of no issue. You are far more likely to pick up DMS from fermentation, if a
diacetyl rest is not used.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew interesting, I was not aware that DMS was less of a concern these days from the malt/mash. I have never detected it in my own beers but always ensure I am getting at least a 10% boil off rate so I assumed it was my process :). Thanks for your response, I don't know why I didn't know about your channel until a couple weeks ago but I have been enjoying and learning from your back catalogue. It's pretty rare at this point in my brewing career (trying to open a craft brewery) that I come across a home brew channel where I am getting more than entertainment from it. Thank you.
Great. Yes things just keep moving forward, the advances are staggering in so many areas compared to when I first started. Good luck with the brewery, as things stand in most places I should think timing will be key. I know a lot of out of work brewers right now sadly.
I liked it
Thank you :)
Can you explain, why scaling a recipe is not simple math on the hop side? Thanks.
Sure. It is down to hop utilisation which changes over scale. Yeast is the same also. The good news is it means less of each the larger you get.
Error in the batch size graphic (and notes). Should be 5.28 US Gal, not 2.26
Thank you so much for pointing this out...much appreciated :)
Great video but why you leave the cap open on the airlock @ 15.15min of this video? Just asking 😊
Thank you. It kept blowing off! I ended up switching the airlock for a blowoff
Hi David, what's the exact thought process behind stirring the protein back in at the hot break? I've seen brewers skim it off as well
Hi, The process of stirring is a case of stirring the top protein to encourage that protein to drop down. I use a backwards and forwards motion mostly and within some minutes its dropped. You will probably see more come duing the boil, so be ready to stir this back in also. Some brewers believe that removing the protein is better, generally they feel they get a cleaner wort this way. Ive tried both ways and prefer the result with the protein still in taste wise. I would urge you to do your own tests and see what you prefer, its a question of taste but also environment. Brewing is made up of so many variables after all.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the answer
Hey David, do you keg or bottle this. I generally bottle and I don't seem to get very juicy IPAs, they can be bitter, yes, but juicy no. I am going to give this recipe a shot and see what happens.
I bottle and keg them. Make sure your hops are fresh and all should be juicy and fresh.
Great Video, so very helpful, I've just had 2 stuck mash's and was at wits end with my Grainfather! I was unaware of rice husks what a great fix! Anyway just by stirring I still managed to get 70% efficiency and the same gravity figure as predicted. How do you measure the amount of rice husks to add, is there a rule of thumb or a ball park figure? It'd be great if there was an inclusive index of your videos so helping to fill the gap with the rather scant instructions provided by GF.
Great to hear Eve, thank you. Rice or oat hulls are very light and as such it is hard to give you a suggestion by weight.I measure out my rice hulls by the handful. Its not very precise but it doesn't really need to be. My rule of thumb for a regular full sized batch is as follows:- 1 handful will be enough for a minor issue like a mash or sparge that just needs a little helping hand. 3 Handfuls - this is a more extreme measure and I would only use this if the mash is sticking badly, meaning there is little hope for the sparge. 2 handfuls - a good happy medium amount to use that will cover everything in between. Naturally the trick is to avoid the need for this from the start by having a graincrush that is not too fine. Naturally with brews with lots of high protein content like wheat and rye you may need hulls no matter what the crush is like. I tend to add rice hulls with brews that have 60-70% of this type of grain. Hope this helps :)
Thanks David, I've purchased a 25kg sack of Simpsons crushed Pale Malt and don't want to waste it, my supplier doesn't do rice husks but supplies oat husks, so I'll give that a go, if they're no good, I might have to import. Any chance of an inclusive video index? Cheers.............. @@DavidHeathHomebrew
@@eveannwallis4939 I believe that Oat husks will do the same job. Ive had positive feedback from others in this respect but I have never tried them myself. I have set my videos into playlists that cover various headings like recipes, brewing techniques, reviews and so on. You can view these playlists if you go into my channels main page. Does this cover what you have in mind index wise? Any suggestions much appreciated on how I might take this further, there are so many videos on my channel!
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I was thinking along the lines of an index or reference, listing topics covered, such as Stuck Mash, Fermentation etc., and where to find your advice ie a hyperlink. Perhaps this could be done as a slide-show video on your home page?
@@eveannwallis4939 Thanks Eve, I will give this some thought :)
Quick question, was reading some old mate had added raisins to his boil. You ever tried that. Is it a worthy experiment or would I be heading down some sort of rabbit hole only to find myself adding half a watermelon at some point in the future...? (looking stupid)
Haha, plenty out there to experiment with. People even add cucumbers and glitter! Just draw your own line to avoid the rabbit hole :)
Thanks again for a great video! learning so much every time you post something!
With all the hops covering the filter, how long did it take for you to transfer the wort to the conical?
Thanks Jason, great to hear. I guess it took 15 minutes or so. No stress.
Hi David. How much rice hulls did you add. My wort never seems to clear in the GF. Cheers
2-3 handfulls depending on severity. If you add too much then it can work against you.
When you say rice hills, do you literally mean normal rice like basmati or white?
No, rice hulls are actually a waste product that homebrew stores will sell for filtering of the grain bed. Oat hulls work also :)
Have you ever had issues with the grainfather pump? It seems that every brew day is the same for me. Pump starts off fine then gives out. Cheers
No, I haven’t. It could be that you have a fault there? Have you seen if its due to a block or clog?
David Heath Yeah I’ve went through the grainfather cleaning every nook and cranny. I’ve tried a hop spider. Whirlpool. I think I might just have a faulty pump. Thanks for the response. Great videos by the way I am new to the grainfather and your videos truly help. Cheers
Thanks :)
Thx for another great video! I very much liked the extra in-depth explications in this one! Is unclear wort during the mash only because of too fine a crush? In my last smash ipa the maris otter gave a very unclear wort.. probably because of the cheap corona mill.. anyhow, i luckily added some fists of ricehulls, and thanks to you, stirring the mash 2-3 times became a holy routine 😁
Hey Nick :) Certainly it can be a factor but as you saw this one cleaned up well enough. Using irish moss in the boil and whirlpooling with a stand can work wonders :)
I will certainly give the moss a try (should've started using it ages ago!) After seeing this video, i realised im probably whirlpooling too slow as well...
Any more kveik videos in the pipeline? I recently fermented a belgian style Dubbel grain bill with Midtbust, which made me very happy :D
I use Irish moss in every brew, it works well. Get the super version if you can. Yes, a fast whirlpool can for sure get better results. I am experimenting with Stalljon kveik at the moment. I am thinking about a video but also perhaps a recipe in that video also. My next video will be my Christmas brew :) Its not brewed yet but Ive started planning out the script. Just looking for an open time to brew it now!
Hi @David Heat, Maybe this is a newbie question, but i just thinking of it now. How do you do with the increase of the fermetation temperature if you increase the temperature with 1 degree per day, (18 - 22 celsius), do you start the increase at day 10 of the fermentation, and then increase it in 4 days, and then do the dry hopping, and ferment another 4 days after that? what is best practice here? Thanks for your great effort :)
I generally wait 7-10 days before increasing temperature. Dry hopping is separate and done within the predicted last 3-5 days. Many ale yeasts will usually be done in 14 days total. Hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the quick reply, it really helped a lot. I did brew this today, with some problems at mash in, when stirring the mash I saw that the silicon ring popped up in the mash :) Now I will follow your advise and buy a mash rodder made of wood to avoid popping off the silicon ring. After fixing the mash problem everything went well, and I was very surprised when the OG was 1.093. Dont know if this was good or bad or if I just did something wrong when taking the OG sample. Any thoughts about that?
No problem :) That was high! I would suggest trying 3 samples to check such results :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I took 3 samples and they did show the same results (1.093) :) Also had a fermentation lag of 48 hours. After careful shaking my conical fermentor and raising the temperature to 19 celsius it started bubbling frenetically. Now (12 hours later) i have a reading of 1.080. so lets see what this goes :D.
Very nice, sounds like this is going to be a strong one :)
Hi David, a question for you about the ingredients. Actually, just about your use of the term ‘pale ale malt’. Here in North America, and maybe where you are, we have what’s usually known as ‘pale malt 2-row’ which is the everyday go-to base malt. ‘Pale ale malt’ is slightly richer than ‘..2-row’ in colour and flavour. MO and GP would belong to the latter category as would some particular American and Canadian malts. Do you make this same distinction when you use the term pale ale malt?
Hi, I go with the definitions generally used world wide. So in the case of Pale ale this would be American 2 row, though no reason to not step this up a level or 2 if you find this improves things for you. If I deviate from this then generally I will list as Maris Otter.
Hi David. Thanks for all your videos they are of great inspiration. I would like to brew your Hophead IPA and would like to use the Loki kveik yeast. how will you seize the fermentation.
- Michael (Danish amateur brewer)
.
Echo SCB's sentiments below. Question - is there any difference in the effect on stuck mash between rice hulls v oat hulls please David?
Thanks Peter :) I have never used oat hulls personally but as I understand it they do a very similar job to rice hulls.
That's what I wanted to hear, thanks David.
Hi David first off I watch most of your videos really great & helpful I have brewed a few of your recipies & they always turn out great. The Mango one is a favourite with the wife & I
A couple of questions for you.
Do you have a blood orange IPA recipie ? Or could I use the Mango IPA recipe ?
Also do you have a Hazy IPA recipie they seem to be the current beer of the moment here in New Zealand
Regards
Hi Andrew, great to hear :) You could simply replace the mango with blood orange. How much to use is the real question but I guess you will find suggestions online for that. I have not tried it, it is not so easy to get over here :)
Going to make this one this week mate. Stand by for a photo
Great, sounds good to me :) I need to brew this again, almost zero stock left!
Hey David, great work as usual.
I am about to buy a grainfather and I am skeptical of the filter helpfulness. How often do you do the bicycle pump thing? do you do it with every brew? or just the heavily hoped ones? I've seen other videos in youtube where people seem to get hop blockage with just a couple ounces.
Many thanks Robero, I hardly ever have issues personally and I believe that is typical. Things do work more smoothly with a false bottom. So Know use the Robobrew false bottom with my GF for faster transfer times. Here is a video showing this:-ruclips.net/video/dwUptHvFK78/видео.html
+Roberto Vigil Hope this helps :)
+Roberto Vigil You should consider the Robobrew also as an option. I have a comparison video here:- Robobrew Brewzilla 3.1 vs Grainfather Full comparison 4K HD ruclips.net/video/SCfTs-j5iQU/видео.html
Have you ever made a whet wine
A wheat wine? Yes I sure have. Long time ago now though. Hmm could be something to look at for the future!
@@DavidHeathHomebrew i can't wait to see you make one this is one i am thinking about making
byo.com/article/wheatwine/
I will look to do it :)
why did you hold the boil for 30 min only?
I did explain this in the video. Try it :) It works very well with certain recipes. Also try a no boil saison, very nice. I have a video for that also :)
I think you should narrate the next installation of the Planet Earth series
Haha thanks :)
Hi David, great video as usual!! Im having a slight issue though as I have tried putting your recipe into brewers friend and beersmith but the ibu’s seem to be way off compared to the grainfather s recipe creator. I have changed aa values etc but the grainfather recipe creator seems to underestimate the ibu’s by over half in some cases compared to the other two. Just for example 6g simcoe 11.4aa for 30mins in beersmith calculated 14.1ibu but the grainfather creator calculated 5ibu. Have you ever noticed this before between to different recipe creators? Cheers
Yes. You will note a difference between all calculators. They are all prediction tools and they all have their own variables.
Good job getting that damn yeast to start in less than 48 hours :]
Aeration and nutrition are key to reducing lag time. Naturally some yeasts are going to have more lag than others though.
Thank you for conducting your experimental “common error” - the visual demonstration allows a beginner to be able to spot the signs of impending problems and take preventative steps before it turns into a inefficient result (with a lot of head scratching at the end). On a lighter note, pronunciation is pronounced with a “nun” in the middle, not a “noun”.....🤓 Many thanks for sharing your life’s experience with the community - much appreciated.
Thanks James, yes, I hope it did help. As for pronunciation that varies with dialect in all languages :)
I am now brewing my American hoppy IPA. I took some inspiration from this video but I didn't have enough hops to do the full hop sequence so I started with some Warrior for bittering and then do a series of later additions with Cascade, Simcoe and Columbus.
I am also experimenting with shortening the boil to compensate for the whirlpool as I read on brulosophy.com that the whirlpool period does the same thing to the hops as a regular boil.
Also, I'm adding the protafloc at flameout as I read on the manufacturers website that it loses effect if it is boiled for too long. It really only needs to be dissolved in the wort so the 10 minute whirlpool should be enough.
Recipe here: brew.grainfather.com/recipes/96514.
Great, all sounds good. Hope you enjoy the end result :)
I just did the pre-boil measurement: 85% mash efficiency! I used all your tricks and they paid off handsomely!
Great to hear :)
FYI... Your info music it much too loud. On your next video can you turn down the volume on your into music. Thanks, and keep up the good work.
Thanks for the feedback. Odd you get this, I balance the sound all together in a final mix.
Kveik is another one. Americans say "Kveek" as in creek.
I am saying it the Norwegian way as it is the only way I have heard it pronounced. It is a Norwegian word though of course :)
Any person who has time to critisise the pronounciation of trub is a genital-wort.
Yup :)