Hi, David, and thanks for many excellent and inspiring videos. Wondering about boil time. As this is a four year old video; would you if brewing this recipe today boil for 30 minutes? If not; why?
I just brewed this beer :) I have a question. Is it StarSan foam on top of the wort when you film in the fermenter? How long should i let it lager in the fermenter after fermentation is done?
Congrats David on reaching 32K subscribers. Your videos are very informative and I can see, a lot of effort is put into producing them. I have learnt so much as I'm sure other people have. Thank you for all your efforts in sharing your vast knowledge. Cheers Craig
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I'm just waiting for my Brewtools B80 to come into Australia in a couple of weeks time. Your 'old speckled hen' recipe is 1st 'cab off the rank'
Thank you so much for this one, David! Brewed it recently and even a bit young it's fabulous! It will be devastating when it's had time to mature a bit. If it lives that long... Happy redhead with her favorite blonde moments here 😁
what to replace the a bitter orange peet? this item is not for sale in our country. Maybe just replace it with orange peel? The crust is slightly bitter.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Will do! Also, do you have a recipe for a weissbierbock / weizenbock? I recently tried one and loved it but can't find any good recipes out there.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks! I'll check it out. The Weissbierbock I tried was the Bischofshof Heller Weissbierbock at 7.1%. It brought together my love for wheat based beers and a higher abv - win win situation ;)
Made the Leffe Blond last 2017 April. After the hotel I was staying for the whole month of March had it in the minibar. And agree with you David, it is typical one that just gets better over time. Stashed away some bottles and almost forgot them. If the beer was good, it was awesome after a few more month's. Almost regretting I did not stash the whole lot. Thanks for again an awesome video and most certainly will try your recipe and the bulk conditioning.
Hola me encantan sus recetas. Me gustaría hacerle una consulta, cuando acondiciona esta cerveza durante meses , a que temperatura se puede poner.un saludo.
Hi David, I just brew this receipe last night, the only thing a changed was the Biscuit Malt for Carared Malt and Mangrove 31 for Safale T58 cause I didn't find those over here in my small town in Brazil, however some websites say they are equivalent. In 3 weeks I'll get back here to say if the beer is ok.
Talk about timing David! Tasted the Leffe for the first time last weekend, and while I searched for recipes JUST NOW, I thought I would check my supscriptions on youtube for some background fun... Scary almost. :)
planning to brew this beer soon and once again will be replacing all hobs with South African hops (Southern Aroma) in this case. I just have a quick question regarding step 1 of fermentation. You mention 18 degrees starting temp and then to leave it for 7 days and not control the temp. It is really hot in Europe at the moment so I was thinking of placing my probe for the first 7 days in a 1l bottle of water in the fridge to at least keep the fridge temp constant. The yeast is thus free to do its magic in the fermenter while the fridge temp is kept at a standard 18 degrees. Thanks for the great videos and keep them coming ;)
I would be very interested to hear your thoughts on how well the SA hops worked with this recipe. Yes, that should be ok temps wise. Which ever way you cool. I feel like jumping in a fridge myself right now :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Measured my Micro Brewery (Garden Shed) temp yesterday and it got up to 48Degrees C. That is pretty hot even for a South African, however both my current fermenters held their temps 1 x 18 degrees (conditioning) and 1 x 4 degrees (carbonating). Will feedback to you on the SA hops as my first IPA is just conditioning as we speak.
I've returned to this video for another look as I'm intending to brew now as we head into the winter (Southern Hemisphere) to be ready for some warmer weather in October. Would you update the information to show your carboy conditioning steps and the yeast addition for carbonation? Thanks.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Can't wait to have a go. The ingredients were delivered this morning. I can't get clear candi sugar so will be making my own. Thanks David.
282 comments wow. I’m keen to try! Quick questions: could you share it on brewfather? Secondly I have no carboy so I’d consider bottle condition in 0.75 l bottles either priming or after force carb. What are your thoughts? Cheers. Pascal
Hi Pascal, It would take me hours and hours to add all these recipes into BF. I have enough to do already!! You can bottle condition , it will just take longer to hit prime state.
sure looks great, I`ve really gotten into Kveik yeast and wonder if you have tried this recipe with Kveik? It will probably speed everything up. Is it possible to make a (pseudo) Belgian Blonde with kveik? I often experience that kveik seldom comes below 1.012 FG, so the ABV would of course be lower.
I'm brewing this one today with my new false bottom in place. I've brewed this before and very nice too. My last brew was Biere de Garde, and before that Dunkelweizen, and before that 60-minute IPA.
I enjoyed this video and wonder how you keep and control your fermentation temperature as accurately as your instructions say. I currently use a Fast Ferment with the insulated enclosure and either ice bottles or heating pad. It’s not bad, but I would like a more accurate system without breaking the bank.
I use 2 methods currently. Firstly I have a colder room where I have plastic fermentation vessels equipped with temperature controllers just with heating from heatbelts. Cheap set up and effective. Ive also got a GF conical with a glycol chiller in a warmer area. Not cheap but effective also.
My coolest room in the winter is about 64 f and about 75 in the summer. At some point I’d like to try a lager and figured a keezer might be the most economical.
Hi David Loving your videos thanks. I am lining up some brews for my new Brewzilla and Belgian beer has some of my favourite styles. Looking forward to trying out this recipe. Q. I have not come across such a vigorous whirlpool using a drill and paddle. So, you have not had a problem with hot side aeration? I believe its meant to affect beer stability & shelf life ? Cheers
Great to hear Paul. No, there is no issue with HSA in homebrew. Its an old myth. Having said this, seeing as you are using a Brewzilla that has a false bottom, you need not bother with a whirlpool.
I tried a single-malt recipe found on the GF community site called "Duvel Moortgat" which I adapted to use Fermentis Safale yeast. The OG was 1.073 with pH of 5.4 and the FG is 1.009 with pH of 4.7 (the ABV is about 8.5%, I think). After 90 days of fermentation and keg conditioning at 35 degF, the beer came out beautifully golden, highly carbonated and clear-as-a-bell. However, and this is where I need help, the beer has a very complex taste. At first blush, it is sweet and malty, but then immediately goes to a distinctly sour taste. I don't find this sour taste off-putting (in fact, I like it), and I realize that likes are very personal, but I am trying to understand if this sourness is expected or not, and what is the source (the 4.7 pH?). Do you have any comments here?
Great, thank you. I would say this is a matter of taste. Personally I notice the difference but some others say that they do not. I would suggest trying both ways in time to experience the difference.
Hello David, I'm Italian and I understand English very little but I often follow your videos. I have a two questions ask you, in the video I don't understand two things well: the first is when you insert the orange peels and the second is if when you put in the bottle you make a priming ... It is not clear to me how you make carbonation. Thanks.
Hi :) I add the orange peel usually with 5 minutes left in the boil. To have carbonation in the bottle you must use sugar. Here is a website that lets you calculate how much:- www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/
Hi David and thank you for this recipe! Just tasted this last week after brewing it at the beginning of the summer and it's a great beer. Maybe next time I brew this one I might try to give it a little more orange peel and coriander to move it a bit more towards Grimbergen Blonde. Any thoughts on this?
Great to hear Hendrik. Sure you can, generally things like this are more background for the wider taste but with homebrew you can dial in to what ever you like. I would go easy though, 25% increase is quite a lot in extra flavour.
Thanks again for all the great information and content. Can't wait to brew this one next! I don't have any biscuit malt though. Was wondering what could be a good substitute? I have aromatic malt which is the same EBC as biscuit. I could also just sub in more munich malt and / or use Maris Otter in place of some of the pilsner malt. What do you think would work best?
@@DavidHeathHomebrewUnfortunately don't have any victory and I'm trying to use up malts that I've got on hand. I've got carafa special 2 as a chocolate malt...I'm assuming to add enough of that to get the correct color and the rest extra Munich?
This looks great! Leffe Blonde is one of my favourites. I’ll definitely try this version, but If I wanted to make a close clone of Leffe Blond would I follow this recipe and leave out the coriander and orange?
Hi David, I enjoy your videos and particularly your attention to detail. I have been brewing a series of Belgian Pale Ales with a simple grist and slight variations to perfect a dry, fruity, hoppy and crisp beer. I have used a combination of T58 and BE256 to get it fruity and dry. It has worked (1.004 on average) but I get some variation between fermentations and wanted a single yeast that would do the job. M31 sounded like a good choice, but I have hit a snag. I held it at 18 for 4 days in a ferment chamber as you suggested, but it didn't like being held back and stalled at about 1.020. It had sulfur and diacetyl and has gone into a kind of slow motion for over a week now at 22-23 degrees. The sulphur has cleared, but the diacetyl is still bad. Have you had similar experiences? Should I hold the chamber temp at 20 and let the yeast heat itself up next time? The ambient temperature as I brewed this was 36 degrees C, so I have to have some kind of control. Thanks for your time and videos.
Hi Robin, Many thanks for the positive feedback :) I have changed the format of my new brew videos to include even more information :) I have a Belgian Quad video coming next that you should find interesting, especially if you are looking to write your own recipes. M31 is one yeast that I never had stall. What I do though is gradually increase its temperature over time. It can go up to 28 deg c plus. I would start raising your current fermentation by 1 deg c per day and give the yeast a rousing by gently rocking the fermenter to wake the yeast back into suspension. This yeast can go down to almost neutral. Hope this fixes things :)
Hi David! I could only get orange peel (both sweet & bitter) in powder, also the coriander is in powder, is it safe to assume that i should use the same amount as stated in the recipe? or because is powder i should allow more (or less) volume? Thanks in advance!
Hi Edgar. Impossible to say in all honesty. Personally I would suggest buying some fresh oranges and using their peel. Powder never tastes as good. I would return it.
Ha! My own 'Leffe Blonde' is almost identical to yours. I just used the Mangrove Jack's Belgian Abbey M47. Worked great, but I'll try the M31 next time. Thanks David!
Depends on the effect you want. Crush it for the maximum effect. Leave it whole for minimum. This recipe is written on the basis that you crush it. The effect is nice and not overpowering.
Hi David, I'll be brewing this to your exact recipe next week - using a Brewzilla and upscaled to 21 litres in to the FV. Firstly do you think just one sachet of M31 will be enough? - I've had repeated good results / hit the numbers with a 23 litre Leffe clone using one SafBrew T58 in the past. Secondly, I normally use a hop spider, mainly from an easier clean point of view, any thoughts on that, especially with the peel / coriander additions? Cheers.
Hey David, thank you for the wonderful video. I have one question, if I want to condition this one in a keg, do I force carbonate first and then put it away for a few months, or would you naturally carbonate it?
Thanks Bas. You can do it either way really. As long as you purge the keg and keep it at good ale conditioning temps at around 14 C. You can go a little either way of this temp. Just not too cold or hot.
Hi David, Thank you for another intresting video! I have a question a step away from these one, but do hope that you can help me out: I'm working on brewing something like Kronenbourg 1664 Blanc for summer, and struggling with choosing the right yiests. It seems that Belgian Wit Ale Yeast WLP400 would do the job, but from the place where I live there is no way to buy them : ( My lack of knowledge does not let me to choose a good replacement. What would you suggest? Mangrove jack's , Fermentis and Lallemand are quite well presented in local shops. Thanks
As I understand it that beer would require an in house yeast to clone properly. WLP400 is commonly used but Safeale T58 or MJ Belgain wit will both work well.
Hi David What is the main reason for scraping the bottom during boil? Is this because you did not have a false bottom with this brew? Cheers and great video as always
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the reply David. can i ask one more thing so i have just fermented a 21L batch of this under pressure at 10psi Will this still be ok to transfer to a secondary for conditioning or should i keg it and let it sit in the keg (not my first choice as it would be taking up valuably keg space) cheers
Hi David, thank you for so many great videos. I’ve done five GF brews now and your videos have definitely helped clean up some process. I can’t find the hard candy sugar here in New Zealand but can get candi syrup would the weights be a 1:1 substitute?? Cheers and thank you in advance
Hi, Thats great to hear. Candi sugars are always hard to predict unless the manufacturer states the amount the liquid is equivalent to. Many do this but some do not. If it isn't listed on the packaging then I would advise you to find one that does.
David Heath great thank you David keep up the great work and inspiration. Loving your recipes your Belgian blonde is on the to brew list very soon. Have you ever brewed a beer similar to the Mc chouffe beer? Any pointers on where to start on something similar
You talk about bulk conditioning then pitching more yeast of carbonation, I am interested just unfamiliar with how to do that, is it another complete packet?....at room temp?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Yeah but there is chinese and indian coriander also aparently. I was told by a swedish brewery that the indian variety is the one you need to use for brewing. The seeds are bigge and more of a rugby ball shape than round.
Hiya David! Thanks for another inspirational recipe. Again I have taken your advice and brewed this today being January with the intention of drinking it in the summer. Just a few questions is that's okay? 1.Following your schedule, how long does it usually take to ferment out before transferring it to the carboy for conditioning? 2. Should I condition it cold in the shed, at room temperature or in a warm place? 3. Would you use the same stain of fresh yeast for bottling? 4. How long should I give it in the bottle before drinking? Thanks in anticipation for your valuable advice! I'm now going to celebrate a successful brewing day with a delightful bottle of your Monk's Beer. It is sensational!
Hi Joachim. Sure, no problem. 1) about 14 days 2) 14C is perfect but normal room temps (20C) will work, just not hot or cold. 3) You can, though any yeast that has the alcohol tolerance will be fine. 4) If you add this to bottles then it could take more than 6 months. If you add it into a carboy then it will be faster in bulk. I hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David, Your speedy reply and advice is really appreciated. I'm planning to use an 18 Litre Carboy for 15 Litres of beer. As I have 3 Litres of head space I was thinking of adding a tad more conditioning sugar at this stage to purge the carboy of air? Do you think this would work, or should I just bottle it? Wish I had made 17.5 Litres instead!
Thank You David!! You are indeed my favorite BrewTuber!! I follow you on RUclips & FaceBook. Wife & I been brewing 1 year & just took 1st place at brew competition. Mexican Lime Lager. We wanted honest feedback on our brews. Of course our friends are supportive & encouraging but don't want to hurt our feelings. We were stunned when 2 of our beers took 6th place in our 1st competition so as you can imagine we were over the moon with 1st place. I've learned so much by following you. Thank you from your biggest fan in Missouri USA
I have some videos on Belgian styles. Nothing specific to Duvel but in the same family. Just search for my name and Belgian. This should help narrow it down.
Just brewed this one and on the way of fermentation. I am keen on tasting it soon! Thanks David. By the way: During the mash the circulation almost stuck. I then added rice huls. I don’t think that my grain crush was to fine since I never had problems with that so far. It looked the same as yours in the video.... what do you think could have went wrong?
Hi David, enjoyed your video once again. I'm gonna try and brew this soon! I wanted to ask you something though, it's more a general question than really specific to this video. Hope you can answer! #1: I see you're using the stainless steel stirrer, I'm considering getting it since my plastic stirrer is bending when stirring bigger grain bills. Does this not scratch the inside and/or bottom plate of the GF? Especially when scraping the bottom while boiling? #2: I read different opinions on how to use the top plate. Some people say push it down, some say let it just touch the water. Can you share your view on this with me? Thanks again, you're a big help to me!
Sorry for the late reply, YT has some errors with message reporting recently so I only just got to see this! Here are some answers for you:- 1) I use a wooden mash paddle for this purpose, works well :) 2) For the best results I have found pushing it to the grain and then adjusting it just above brings the best efficiency.
Hi Dave, thank you for sharing this recipe. I have been wanting to try this for a while but my local homebrew store just can't get stock of the bitter orange, only sweet. Should I substitute this for something else? Any suggestions?
David thanks for all your videos, they are of extraordinary quality! Question: I've been using a hop spider and havn't been making a strict habit of a vigorous whirlpool. Have you found that the excellent whirlpools your do with the drill bit are the key step to being able to throw in the hops without a bag/spider and avoid pump filter clogs? Do you reckon a cheap paint stir drill attachment would do the same job?
Thanks Mark, much appreciated :) Yes the whirlpool will certainly help with this for sure. Though its primary function is clarity of wort. I seldom use a hop spider even for huge hop monsters. Cheap paint paddles will usually not be foodsafe and could be a hazard. Stick with stainless steel. The GF paddle isnt that expensive but any ss paddle will do it.
Hello, I allowed the beer to ferment at temperatures above 25 degrees and overfermented, the beer turned out to be very sour. How to get out of the situation? can I add some syrup? density is 2
Hi David. I’ve just brewed this today and and keen to get a better understanding of the conditioning process. You say that this will need a few months for this to be at it’s optimum but how do you maintain a constant conditioning temperature of say 14 degrees for 3-4 months? With changing seasons, the temperature fluctuations would vary considerably over time. I was thinking of trying to store in kegs in my fridge set to it’s maximum temperature setting of 10 degrees for this period. Would this lower temperature have a negative affect on the beer? My other thoughts were either a wine fridge ($$) or a Rapt fermentation chamber. Am I over thinking this??
14C is the optimum temperature. All we can do at home is get as close to this as possible. So if you can manage 10C or 18C then there will be no harm done. The harm is done when you exposure the conditioning beer to temperatures that are either too cold or are too hot. Luckily these are not liveable temperatures for us either, so generally homes will provide an area that is suitable. Temperature fluctuations are also fine, as long as you avoid the extreme.
Thanks David. No problem. Being fairly new to Homebrewing I was concerned that I have put a lot of effort into this brew and potentially ruining it and waiting 3 months later to taste would have been disheartening. Will sure to post on your FB page once it’s ready for drinking! Cheers 🍺
Hi David! Just a great video. Will brew this today...Think I have everything now, last ingredients was purchased this morning... At what temperature are you storing the beer ( for several months ) after the fermentation ? Most say your videos are the best when it comes to home brewing! Very instructional. Keep up!
Great to hear Rickard :) Try to store ales as close to 14C as you can. Main thing is not much colder or hotter. 21 is fine but much hotter will not be good for example.
David Heath Homebrew Thanks David! Was a long brew day. As Im unused to this type of beer. Had to dry my sweet orange peels in the morning , as I could not find any in the local brew store. But worked out nicly,internet is great :-). Did a doubble batch in my Braumeister. Got a OG 1070 ( pre boil and pre candi at 1056), a bit suprised about that. I heard your comments about the cooling spiral stopping the boiling process. I have the same problem, and I feel the Braumeister is a bit weak in heating. I think it is a bit irritating to get the boil process to stop..So I started to use my sparge water heater and ’pre heat’ my spiral in that. I fill the heater (16L ), use the needed sparge water and then fill it (if neded)so the sprial will be covered. And put the heater at 98C. Drop the sprial in the heater. By that my sprial doesnt stop the boiling process as Its boiling hot when i drop it in the wort. Thanks again for great videos!
David Heath Homebrew Hi David! Looks like we have the same Grainfather fermenter. Yon mention not cap the temp in start of the fermentation process. Can you do that in the Grainfather fermenter? I havent found that function. And when using the steel ’paddel’ , are you just making sure to keep it high enough in the wort, to not hit the ’pin’ that stand up from the bottom of the fermenter? Just curious how you do..Just bought a paddel, and would like to use it in the fermenter as you do. Before I used a platic bucket (shake..) beteewen the Braumeister and my steel fermenter . My ‘Leffe’ SG currently at 1013. Btw, Humlegården is my go to shop here in Sweden, nice guys. Take care! Rickard
Great video but I have a couple of questions. First did you use an entire packet of M31 for your fermentation? Second what’s your opinion of bottling after fermentation rather than conditioning in a carboy? I’ve never done the later option and had good results is all. Keep up the great work.
I’m new to AG homebrewing and because of you I’ve just bought a Brewzilla 🤣 living close to Belgium I’d like to start with something like this. PS. Did you filter the orange peels at the end or they stay in the fermenter?
Hi David. Please can you advise me? I’m going to make this beer next and have upscaled it to 23l using the Grainfather app. But here in Australia I could only get powered bitter and sweet orange peel. Should I use the same quantity that you used as, this won’t get filtered out? Cheers David, love your videos.
Hey, Hmmm I've never used powdered, so its really hard to know what to advise you here. I suspect that if it is a 100% powdered product then the result would be the same. Perhaps a post on an Australian forum would be best for a quick and relevant answer?
Welshie Metalhead hi there, I am in New Zealand and brewing this recipe next weekend. I have the same problem here I can only get powdered orange peel. Did you ask the question on an Aussie page regarding powder vs dehydrated peel if you did what answers did you get? Cheers
Luke Robertson Hi Luke. I ended up just using the powered peel in the same quantities that David used. Tasted great and ended up being the clearest beer I’ve made with the Grainfather so far.
Welshie Metalhead thank you for your reply. great news, I have the peel all ready for action have made candi sugar as it’s bloody hard to come by here in nz. Did you bulk age the brew or age it in the bottle? I am planning on bulk aging in a 23l carboy
David, I’m sure someone has asked it before. At 6:20 you store your sanitizer solution in a jug. How many times do you re-use the solution and how long can you keep it for?
Brewed on Sunday Sept 1st 2018 Yeast: MJ Belgian Triple M31 Post Boil SG: 1.070 / overshot my efficiency Post Fermentation FG: 1.006 Est ABV 8.40% 1st week of fermentation @ 65° Let it free rise to room temp indoors to 74° held there for another 14 days Terminal gravity reached after 21 days into fermentation Racked to clean secondary on Sept 22nd purged w/CO2 and sealed Held @ 45° for 6 weeks Bottled November 3rd @ 2.8 volumes of CO2 and conditioned for 28 days @ 72° December 1st placed bottles into refrigerator @ 45° for additional lagering December 14, 2018 opened a bottle for tasting Notes: Slightly sweet/malty with hints of fruit, spices and very effervescent with a nice creamy head and good lacing. Clean on the nose with slight hint of hop aroma still needs more conditioning as the bitterness hasn't balanced yet.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I was watching your videos before I ever brewed my first batch of beer. This month I am 1 year into brewing and just bottled my 18th batch a Munich Helles. Each brew day I try to improve my process and just let the fermenting wort do it's thing giving it time to finish. Following your guide lines and using a good recipe editor to scale for my equipment has made every beer a success.
Hey David! Iwe just started out and im wondering as for my.first brew i took a hydrometer reading post boil due to adding honey to the brew on flame out! Was it wrong of me to not take a pre boil value? Cant seem to wrap my head around why and why not to take the reading pre boil contra post boil?
It really depends what numbers you have access to. Some brew calcs give more than others. For most people its a case of using a refractometer 10 minutes before the end of the boil to see that all is about right before concluding the brew. The hydrometer is then used at the end to confirm. On a side note I would never boil honey, it kills the flavour. Check this video out for more information on honey:- ruclips.net/video/-W9Y5kH-TJg/видео.html and this one for brewing measurements:- ruclips.net/video/WZgmTy_nDqs/видео.html
Hi again David. I'm getting ready to brew the Belgian Blonde, but have a question I hope you can answer. When bulk conditioning this beer. What temperature should I store the beer at? can it be stored in a fridge at 5-6 degrees C?
It is best to store it as close to 14 deg c as possible. This is the best temperature for ales to condition at. Lagers styles enjoy fridge temperatures. Only add ales to the fridge when you planning to drink them in the next 30-60 minutes.
Thanks again for the quick reply. I don't have a basement, so 14 degrees could be difficult during the summer. I have a room that the sun doesn't heat up. It usually is about 17-18 degrees in that room. This will not ruin the beer I hope.
Great. It is important to add the recipe into a recipe calculator. The grain will be double but the hops will not be. Plenty of free options out there :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew got my ingredients for 24 liter batch today, got the numbers corrected by grainfather site scale option. You mentioned in video you bulk age it and then add fresh yeast - could you share some information on that subject ? Since it's a big batch i will bottle some once i hit fg and some i will transfer to carboy for aging.
Hi David, is there any harm in bottling with a champagne yeast and then leaving for a few months rather than putting in a carboy? What temp would you keep the bottles? I'm in Brisbane so the warmer the better.
Hi Tom, no harm at all but it will condition slower than in bulk. Temps in the 20s will be fine. Check out the max temp on the yeast. I use Larvin 1118 personally.
Hi Kamil, Ive noted a marginal improvement using 2L growlers compared to 500ml bottles. The best gains though, by far are 15L plus. I think beer like this are better off in smaller bottles in the end really.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the response! So this seems to be so-called secondary fermentation. Correct me if I'm wrong:) Is this a procedure you apply to every other ales (except for kveik and hoppy beers maybe)? Or is it suited for this particular recipe? Cheers!
If you intend to keg a beer then bulk conditioning is still relevant, you can use the keg for the bulk conditioning. The same temp rules and time guides apply though. I do mine in carboys because I do not wish to tie a keg up for such a long period.
Hey David, great video. I just brewed a Belgian Blonde and had some good fermentation for the first 24 hours. From 24 hours onwards, the bubbling almost came to a standstill but still seeing some good head/foam on the wort. How long did your vigorous bubbling continue for? Is it normal for it to reduce significantly from day 2 onwards?
Ok, I started at about the 15 minute mark, as I had to dissolve 530 grammes for scaled version. Surprisingly I hit the predicted numbers, except, I got about 21.5 litres in then FV instead of 23, so pretty happy with the end result thus far.
Hi David, great video as always! If I may, I have a question: I will be using BIAB to brew this recipe. Could you please tell me how much strike water I should start off with (for a 12L batch?)? I've just recently started homebrewing and I am still a bit unfamiliar with water to grain ratio and how to covert Grainfather recipes to BIAB. Thanks!
Thank you. I would suggest that you look at brewing software to work all of this out for you. I would recommend Brewfather highly. Within this software you can then add in your equipment details. Then save recipes (up to 10 I believe in the free version) and it will calculate water for you. In this video I have a guide to using Brewfather and mention another channel that has made an equipment set up guide:- ruclips.net/video/5U0Hama2NwM/видео.html
You will find that my more recent recipe videos share a link to the recipe in BF. All you need to do then is select your equipment and balance the hops to your own.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Quick question: I uploaded this recipe on to Brewfather with your system and the software suggested 24.11L of mash water and 0.19L of sparge water. Is this right? When I convert it to BIAB, the software suggests 7.61L of mash water and 10.38L of sparge water. Just wanted to know what you think about this. Cheers.
Hi David. If I wasn't able to get hold of candi sugar and used dextrose instead would any adjustment be worthwhile to add body? I seen to recall you commented that this beer would be better in smaller bottles, rather than bigger ones. Why is that? Would that hold true if I aren't able to age it in bulk, and age in bottles? Many thanks.
Candi sugar is more about adding something fermentable with flavour. So if you cannot obtain it then syrup would be a better substitute. These are made for homebrewers and have clear instructions as to how much to use compared to candy sugar. In terms of sizing, this is the opposite :) This is from a conditioning perspective. Best to use a carboy for conditioning in bulk before transfer into bottles or a keg. Anything with alcohol conditions faster in bulk.
Sounds like a great recipe, David. I will scale this to 23L, but wondering whether that would mean two sachets of M31? Also you might want to change the category of your recipe from "18A Blonde Ale" to "25A Belgian Blond Ale" in Grainfather Recipe Tools.
This looks delicious, David! I love Leffe Blonde, and I've been looking for a recipe just like this. I have a question. When I scale the recipe up to 23 liters in the recipe tool, the extras stays at 15g bitter, 15g sweet and 10g coriander. Is this right? Lars
Hi Lars, No these also need to be upscaled also. Kind of weird that they arent upscaling! So at 23L for the two peel additions this would be 28,75g of each and for the coriander this would become 19.16g.
Dave, I just brewed the Belgian blonde! Had to go with the Belgian Strong ale yeast because the brew shop had no Belgian trippel. I noticed in your video you say to allow fermentation temp to rise naturally. But I have mine in a temperature regulated ferm chamber that holds a specific temp. Is that still ok? Great video!!
Hi David. I'm planning making this in near future, but was a bit surpriced by the relatively high mashing temperature. Are there any risks with this, i.e. too high FG?
Hi Håvar, This recipe and its calculations are based on the best end result for the style. If you would prefer a lower FG then you can mash at a lower temp but this will take the end beer away from its intended balance.
Thanks David. I have the same yeast and will follow your procedure. Belgian Blonde is one of my favourites. Having said that, that list seems getting just longer and longer.
I use the mash temperature. This is common in countries with 220-240v when using electric brewers. Only those in low voltage countries need a higher temperature due to the less powerful heating.
Thanks, that was a very useful information for me....can you wirlpool several times during the boil, or just at the end? (bought the GF Brewing Paddle)
Great. Some brewers do a "mini whirlpool" when adding large amounts of hops before the end of the brew. Be careful with this, its best to stop when you see that your temperatures are starting to drop. Hope this helps.
Not to a 100% authentic level no if you want the spice but if you simply want fruity flavours then sure. Commericial kveik wise Omegas Hothead would probably work well for you. It is based on Hornindal kveik.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your thougths. Belgian Blonde is easily the style I and my wife tend to drink and enjoy the most. So for next year; I will be sure to start early in the year to brew a well matured original style beer more to be more authentic. For now I am just looking for something that resembles it and can be brewed and matured faster. Omega hothead doesnt seem to be much available in the Netherlands. What about Opshaug (Whitelabs) or Voss (Lallemand)? Or should it try my best and get a Hothead?
Thank you for sharing this, I will surely try it soon! On another totally unrelated note, do you happen to be this David Heat en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gangrel_(wrestler) (professional wrestler)
Only if you are using pilsner malt that has been produced in very basic old traditional ways. Modern malt from mainstream maltsters will not require 90 minutes and a modern 30 minute boil can be used.
Depends on the brewing system you are using. The easy way is to use brewing software like Brewfather, which can be free with limitations that may not bother you. This will give you all water info for each brew.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Usually, according to a specific recipe, they write how much water is needed for the main and rinse mash, in your case, how much water was needed for 12 liters of beer? So that I can calculate my volume and get the given beer density.
Ok, I can show you what I used but it will vary depending on your equipment. I used a Grainfather G30. Mash volume 11.11L, sparge volume 9.64L. This gave 12L.
Your videos are simply fantastic. I can't get enough and whenever one of yours pops up in my feed, it's an insta-watch.
Many thanks Travis, that is great to hear :)
David I brewed this on Sept 9th 2018 just opened the last 12 oz bottle tonight to share with my wife and @ 17 months old it was just amazing!!
Great to hear Mark :) I should imagine after that amount of time this beer would be glorious :)
This looks like a serious candidate for my second brew. Love all kinds of Belgian beer. Thanks for sharing
Great stuff Graham. I do love this one, hope you do also :)
Great video Dave. I like the pause sections you added on your video. It answers many questions that people have. Can’t wait to brew this beer
Thank you :) Its one of my favourites hope you enjoy it also :)
Hi, David, and thanks for many excellent and inspiring videos. Wondering about boil time. As this is a four year old video; would you if brewing this recipe today boil for 30 minutes? If not; why?
Sure, reduce it to 30 mins and adjust using these instructions:- ruclips.net/video/JI4XVtGdbo4/видео.html
I just brewed this beer :) I have a question.
Is it StarSan foam on top of the wort when you film in the fermenter?
How long should i let it lager in the fermenter after fermentation is done?
Great 🍻🍻🍻. Yes the foam is sanitiser.
No need to lager but you should give it time to condition of about 2-3 months for the best state. Enjoy 🍻🍻🍻
Congrats David on reaching 32K subscribers. Your videos are very informative and I can see, a lot of effort is put into producing them. I have learnt so much as I'm sure other people have. Thank you for all your efforts in sharing your vast knowledge. Cheers Craig
Many thanks Craig that means a lot to me :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I'm just waiting for my Brewtools B80 to come into Australia in a couple of weeks time. Your 'old speckled hen' recipe is 1st 'cab off the rank'
Very nice Craig. Sure is an awesome system :) Sounds like a great first brew choice also :)
I've brewed it 3 times before from a different recipe. looking forward to "your take" on a classic english ale. 😉
Great, that is coming pretty soon :)
Thank you so much for this one, David! Brewed it recently and even a bit young it's fabulous! It will be devastating when it's had time to mature a bit. If it lives that long... Happy redhead with her favorite blonde moments here 😁
Great to hear Vanda :) Yes, I love this one myself :)
what to replace the a bitter orange peet? this item is not for sale in our country. Maybe just replace it with orange peel? The crust is slightly bitter.
Yes, just regular orange peel will work :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Will a regular orange peel change the bitter orange peel? plus the sweet orange peel
Did you use extract of bitter orange peel?
I tend to buy peel that has been dried. Easy enough to find in homebrew stores in Europe usually.
Just made this yesterday, very excited to see how it turns out. It smelled fantastic.
Great to hear, I am sure you will enjoy it. Let me know 🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Will do! Also, do you have a recipe for a weissbierbock / weizenbock? I recently tried one and loved it but can't find any good recipes out there.
Actually no, I should fix that at some point. I do have this, quite an old video but a really nice recipe:- ruclips.net/video/qf7IvsdsCIQ/видео.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks! I'll check it out. The Weissbierbock I tried was the Bischofshof Heller Weissbierbock at 7.1%. It brought together my love for wheat based beers and a higher abv - win win situation ;)
I am sure you will enjoy this one too 🍻🍻
Made the Leffe Blond last 2017 April. After the hotel I was staying for the whole month of March had it in the minibar. And agree with you David, it is typical one that just gets better over time. Stashed away some bottles and almost forgot them. If the beer was good, it was awesome after a few more month's. Almost regretting I did not stash the whole lot. Thanks for again an awesome video and most certainly will try your recipe and the bulk conditioning.
Great :) Let me know what you think once its brewed and ready to drink :)
Hola me encantan sus recetas. Me gustaría hacerle una consulta, cuando acondiciona esta cerveza durante meses , a que temperatura se puede poner.un saludo.
Hi, Sorry but I do not speak Spanish, can you ask in English please? 🍻🍻🍻
Looks like a nice beer David. I'll definitely give this one go in the future. Many thanks.
Hey Tim, Yes it sure is :) Hope you enjoy it once you have brewed it.
Thanks for the video recipe. It looks somewhat similar to one of my Belgian Witbier recipes. I may have to try this.
Do that Larry, you could split it into 2 and use wit yeast and M31. Same wort, two quite different beers by the end :)
Hi David, I just brew this receipe last night, the only thing a changed was the Biscuit Malt for Carared Malt and Mangrove 31 for Safale T58 cause I didn't find those over here in my small town in Brazil, however some websites say they are equivalent. In 3 weeks I'll get back here to say if the beer is ok.
I should imagine that those changes will work out well. Let me know:)
Looks good this recipe I have lined it up to brew soon - thank you for sharing David.
Go for it :)
Talk about timing David! Tasted the Leffe for the first time last weekend, and while I searched for recipes JUST NOW, I thought I would check my supscriptions on youtube for some background fun... Scary almost. :)
Oh wow, you have a lot of catching up to do! Better brew this quickly! :)
planning to brew this beer soon and once again will be replacing all hobs with South African hops (Southern Aroma) in this case. I just have a quick question regarding step 1 of fermentation. You mention 18 degrees starting temp and then to leave it for 7 days and not control the temp. It is really hot in Europe at the moment so I was thinking of placing my probe for the first 7 days in a 1l bottle of water in the fridge to at least keep the fridge temp constant. The yeast is thus free to do its magic in the fermenter while the fridge temp is kept at a standard 18 degrees. Thanks for the great videos and keep them coming ;)
I would be very interested to hear your thoughts on how well the SA hops worked with this recipe. Yes, that should be ok temps wise. Which ever way you cool. I feel like jumping in a fridge myself right now :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Measured my Micro Brewery (Garden Shed) temp yesterday and it got up to 48Degrees C. That is pretty hot even for a South African, however both my current fermenters held their temps 1 x 18 degrees (conditioning) and 1 x 4 degrees (carbonating). Will feedback to you on the SA hops as my first IPA is just conditioning as we speak.
Pal, this is amazing. You should be honorary professor at the World Beer University. This is master class stuff.
Many thanks Jacob. I have guides to many styles on my channel and the content on the newer ones has expanded this further :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew So, count on at least one more view on every other video in your channel!
Thank you Jacob. I hope you enjoy it all, there sure is a huge library of them now :) I add a new video every Sunday :)
Thank you :)
I've returned to this video for another look as I'm intending to brew now as we head into the winter (Southern Hemisphere) to be ready for some warmer weather in October. Would you update the information to show your carboy conditioning steps and the yeast addition for carbonation? Thanks.
From memory I bulk conditioned this one for 9 months. I added US05 to the bottling bucket for carbonation :) Hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Can't wait to have a go. The ingredients were delivered this morning. I can't get clear candi sugar so will be making my own. Thanks David.
Great, hope it goes well for you Morgan.
282 comments wow. I’m keen to try! Quick questions: could you share it on brewfather? Secondly I have no carboy so I’d consider bottle condition in 0.75 l bottles either priming or after force carb. What are your thoughts? Cheers. Pascal
Hi Pascal, It would take me hours and hours to add all these recipes into BF.
I have enough to do already!! You can bottle condition , it will just take longer to hit prime state.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew do you want me to add it 1:1 and send you the link? I’ll modify it for myself in a copy
Hi Dave!
I assume a 30 minute boil is ok with this one too?
Can you tell us why you mash at a high temp only to bring it down with sugar again?
Yes, no problems doing 30 mins at all.
This is about flavour / residual sugars.
sure looks great, I`ve really gotten into Kveik yeast and wonder if you have tried this recipe with Kveik? It will probably speed everything up. Is it possible to make a (pseudo) Belgian Blonde with kveik? I often experience that kveik seldom comes below 1.012 FG, so the ABV would of course be lower.
Thanks Fredrik. Yes, I sure have :) Naturally it is not the same but I have had nice results using Voss kveik at 35C.
I'm brewing this one today with my new false bottom in place. I've brewed this before and very nice too. My last brew was Biere de Garde, and before that Dunkelweizen, and before that 60-minute IPA.
Great stuff Thomas :)
Love your videos, mate. Keep up the good work.
Thanks alot Gary :) More coming soon!
I enjoyed this video and wonder how you keep and control your fermentation temperature as accurately as your instructions say. I currently use a Fast Ferment with the insulated enclosure and either ice bottles or heating pad. It’s not bad, but I would like a more accurate system without breaking the bank.
I use 2 methods currently. Firstly I have a colder room where I have plastic fermentation vessels equipped with temperature controllers just with heating from heatbelts. Cheap set up and effective. Ive also got a GF conical with a glycol chiller in a warmer area. Not cheap but effective also.
My coolest room in the winter is about 64 f and about 75 in the summer. At some point I’d like to try a lager and figured a keezer might be the most economical.
Hello, thank you for the recipe. If a scale up the recipe for 20 liters what would change to colander and peels grams? Is there any rule for gr/lt?
Thanks Nick. On this basis you can just use regular math for scaling. Most brewing software will do this for you also in a click or two.
Hi David Loving your videos thanks. I am lining up some brews for my new Brewzilla and Belgian beer has some of my favourite styles. Looking forward to trying out this recipe. Q. I have not come across such a vigorous whirlpool using a drill and paddle. So, you have not had a problem with hot side aeration? I believe its meant to affect beer stability & shelf life ? Cheers
Great to hear Paul. No, there is no issue with HSA in homebrew. Its an old myth. Having said this, seeing as you are using a Brewzilla that has a false bottom, you need not bother with a whirlpool.
I tried a single-malt recipe found on the GF community site called "Duvel Moortgat" which I adapted to use Fermentis Safale yeast. The OG was 1.073 with pH of 5.4 and the FG is 1.009 with pH of 4.7 (the ABV is about 8.5%, I think). After 90 days of fermentation and keg conditioning at 35 degF, the beer came out beautifully golden, highly carbonated and clear-as-a-bell. However, and this is where I need help, the beer has a very complex taste. At first blush, it is sweet and malty, but then immediately goes to a distinctly sour taste. I don't find this sour taste off-putting (in fact, I like it), and I realize that likes are very personal, but I am trying to understand if this sourness is expected or not, and what is the source (the 4.7 pH?). Do you have any comments here?
Sounds to me like you picked up some wild yeast there. Can be good or bad but its unlikely to be repeatable sadly.
Hi David, thank you for the recipe. Can I use table sugar and get the same results as Belgian Candi sugar?
Great, thank you. I would say this is a matter of taste. Personally I notice the difference but some others say that they do not. I would suggest trying both ways in time to experience the difference.
Hello David, I'm Italian and I understand English very little but I often follow your videos. I have a two questions ask you, in the video I don't understand two things well: the first is when you insert the orange peels and the second is if when you put in the bottle you make a priming ... It is not clear to me how you make carbonation. Thanks.
Hi :) I add the orange peel usually with 5 minutes left in the boil. To have carbonation in the bottle you must use sugar. Here is a website that lets you calculate how much:- www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/
Hi David, this one looks awesome! I will put it on my list of brews to do in December/January. Do you have the recipe in Brewfather?
Hi, Sounds good to me :) This one was before my Brewfather time but it is quick to add :)
Hi David and thank you for this recipe! Just tasted this last week after brewing it at the beginning of the summer and it's a great beer.
Maybe next time I brew this one I might try to give it a little more orange peel and coriander to move it a bit more towards Grimbergen Blonde.
Any thoughts on this?
Great to hear Hendrik. Sure you can, generally things like this are more background for the wider taste but with homebrew you can dial in to what ever you like. I would go easy though, 25% increase is quite a lot in extra flavour.
Thanks again for all the great information and content. Can't wait to brew this one next! I don't have any biscuit malt though. Was wondering what could be a good substitute? I have aromatic malt which is the same EBC as biscuit. I could also just sub in more munich malt and / or use Maris Otter in place of some of the pilsner malt. What do you think would work best?
Hi Alex, can you get victory malt? It is very close. Munich with a small amount of chocolate malt can work to. Aromatic is very different.
@@DavidHeathHomebrewUnfortunately don't have any victory and I'm trying to use up malts that I've got on hand. I've got carafa special 2 as a chocolate malt...I'm assuming to add enough of that to get the correct color and the rest extra Munich?
Ok. Go with munich and a very small amount of chocolate. Not quite the same but it will work well. Keep EBC the same.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew great thanks! Will try that 😁
🍻🍻🍻
This looks great! Leffe Blonde is one of my favourites. I’ll definitely try this version, but If I wanted to make a close clone of Leffe Blond would I follow this recipe and leave out the coriander and orange?
Thank you. Yes, that would get you closer :)
Hi David, I enjoy your videos and particularly your attention to detail. I have been brewing a series of Belgian Pale Ales with a simple grist and slight variations to perfect a dry, fruity, hoppy and crisp beer. I have used a combination of T58 and BE256 to get it fruity and dry. It has worked (1.004 on average) but I get some variation between fermentations and wanted a single yeast that would do the job. M31 sounded like a good choice, but I have hit a snag. I held it at 18 for 4 days in a ferment chamber as you suggested, but it didn't like being held back and stalled at about 1.020. It had sulfur and diacetyl and has gone into a kind of slow motion for over a week now at 22-23 degrees. The sulphur has cleared, but the diacetyl is still bad. Have you had similar experiences? Should I hold the chamber temp at 20 and let the yeast heat itself up next time? The ambient temperature as I brewed this was 36 degrees C, so I have to have some kind of control. Thanks for your time and videos.
Hi Robin, Many thanks for the positive feedback :) I have changed the format of my new brew videos to include even more information :) I have a Belgian Quad video coming next that you should find interesting, especially if you are looking to write your own recipes. M31 is one yeast that I never had stall. What I do though is gradually increase its temperature over time. It can go up to 28 deg c plus. I would start raising your current fermentation by 1 deg c per day and give the yeast a rousing by gently rocking the fermenter to wake the yeast back into suspension. This yeast can go down to almost neutral. Hope this fixes things :)
Hi David!
I could only get orange peel (both sweet & bitter) in powder, also the coriander is in powder, is it safe to assume that i should use the same amount as stated in the recipe? or because is powder i should allow more (or less) volume?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Edgar. Impossible to say in all honesty. Personally I would suggest buying some fresh oranges and using their peel. Powder never tastes as good. I would return it.
Ha! My own 'Leffe Blonde' is almost identical to yours. I just used the Mangrove Jack's Belgian Abbey M47. Worked great, but I'll try the M31 next time. Thanks David!
Awesome :) I do much prefer the M31 :)
Do you need to grind the carian completely to dissolve it, or remove it by filtering like an orange peel?
Depends on the effect you want. Crush it for the maximum effect. Leave it whole for minimum. This recipe is written on the basis that you crush it. The effect is nice and not overpowering.
Hi David, I'll be brewing this to your exact recipe next week - using a Brewzilla and upscaled to 21 litres in to the FV. Firstly do you think just one sachet of M31 will be enough? - I've had repeated good results / hit the numbers with a 23 litre Leffe clone using one SafBrew T58 in the past. Secondly, I normally use a hop spider, mainly from an easier clean point of view, any thoughts on that, especially with the peel / coriander additions? Cheers.
Great :) It could be enough but 2 would be safer due to the gravity here.
Hey David, thank you for the wonderful video. I have one question, if I want to condition this one in a keg, do I force carbonate first and then put it away for a few months, or would you naturally carbonate it?
Thanks Bas. You can do it either way really. As long as you purge the keg and keep it at good ale conditioning temps at around 14 C. You can go a little either way of this temp. Just not too cold or hot.
Hi David,
Thank you for another intresting video!
I have a question a step away from these one, but do hope that you can help me out:
I'm working on brewing something like Kronenbourg 1664 Blanc for summer, and struggling with choosing the right yiests.
It seems that Belgian Wit Ale Yeast WLP400 would do the job, but from the place where I live there is no way to buy them : (
My lack of knowledge does not let me to choose a good replacement. What would you suggest?
Mangrove jack's , Fermentis and Lallemand are quite well presented in local shops.
Thanks
As I understand it that beer would require an in house yeast to clone properly. WLP400 is commonly used but Safeale T58 or MJ Belgain wit will both work well.
Thank you David for prompt reply and for your help!
Anytime :)
Hi David What is the main reason for scraping the bottom during boil? Is this because you did not have a false bottom with this brew? Cheers and great video as always
Many thanks Jason. Yes, this was before I got the false bottom. GF strongly suggest doing this to avoid build up problems on the bottom.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the reply David. can i ask one more thing so i have just fermented a 21L batch of this under pressure at 10psi Will this still be ok to transfer to a secondary for conditioning or should i keg it and let it sit in the keg (not my first choice as it would be taking up valuably keg space) cheers
Thanks Jason. Either way will be fine :)
Look nice, im gonna try do this. i just order my Grainfather, love your videos
Thanks Richard, great to hear :) Yes many people have been very happy with this recipe : )
Love the video, definitely going to be the next brew I do. Any thoughts on doing a leffe brun type beers?
Thank you. Quite an old video now :) Actually ive not covered any Belgian Brown style as yet but ive added it to my list.
Why not using M41 belgian golden strong ale? I've used it and had pretty good results with this style
Personal taste really. They are both good yeasts, I just prefer this one :)
Hi David, thank you for so many great videos. I’ve done five GF brews now and your videos have definitely helped clean up some process. I can’t find the hard candy sugar here in New Zealand but can get candi syrup would the weights be a 1:1 substitute?? Cheers and thank you in advance
Hi, Thats great to hear. Candi sugars are always hard to predict unless the manufacturer states the amount the liquid is equivalent to. Many do this but some do not. If it isn't listed on the packaging then I would advise you to find one that does.
David Heath great thank you David keep up the great work and inspiration. Loving your recipes your Belgian blonde is on the to brew list very soon. Have you ever brewed a beer similar to the Mc chouffe beer? Any pointers on where to start on something similar
Thanks Luke. I cannot say that I have. Sounds like its one to look at in the future! :)
David Heath cheers and thanks for your help 🍻🍻👍
You talk about bulk conditioning then pitching more yeast of carbonation, I am interested just unfamiliar with how to do that, is it another complete packet?....at room temp?
Yes, add another packet to your bottling bucket. I show this in this video:- ruclips.net/video/hyCNxiSFARo/видео.html
Nice recipe. What kind of coriander do you use?
Thank you. Coriander is best used in seed form.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Yeah but there is chinese and indian coriander also aparently. I was told by a swedish brewery that the indian variety is the one you need to use for brewing. The seeds are bigge and more of a rugby ball shape than round.
Hiya David! Thanks for another inspirational recipe. Again I have taken your advice and brewed this today being January with the intention of drinking it in the summer. Just a few questions is that's okay? 1.Following your schedule, how long does it usually take to ferment out before transferring it to the carboy for conditioning? 2. Should I condition it cold in the shed, at room temperature or in a warm place? 3. Would you use the same stain of fresh yeast for bottling? 4. How long should I give it in the bottle before drinking? Thanks in anticipation for your valuable advice! I'm now going to celebrate a successful brewing day with a delightful bottle of your Monk's Beer. It is sensational!
Hi Joachim. Sure, no problem. 1) about 14 days 2) 14C is perfect but normal room temps (20C) will work, just not hot or cold. 3) You can, though any yeast that has the alcohol tolerance will be fine. 4) If you add this to bottles then it could take more than 6 months. If you add it into a carboy then it will be faster in bulk. I hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David, Your speedy reply and advice is really appreciated. I'm planning to use an 18 Litre Carboy for 15 Litres of beer. As I have 3 Litres of head space I was thinking of adding a tad more conditioning sugar at this stage to purge the carboy of air? Do you think this would work, or should I just bottle it? Wish I had made 17.5 Litres instead!
I would get some glass marbles, clean and santised and fill the space with them. This works very well.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Genius!
Its a nice trick :)
You said before bottling you added some yeast. Was that prebottling the same as you used for fermentation & how much??
Yes, the same amount for bottling as for fermentation.
Thank You David!! You are indeed my favorite BrewTuber!! I follow you on RUclips & FaceBook. Wife & I been brewing 1 year & just took 1st place at brew competition. Mexican Lime Lager. We wanted honest feedback on our brews. Of course our friends are supportive & encouraging but don't want to hurt our feelings. We were stunned when 2 of our beers took 6th place in our 1st competition so as you can imagine we were over the moon with 1st place. I've learned so much by following you. Thank you from your biggest fan in Missouri USA
Awesome to hear! Its always great to have great feedback for all of us 🍻🍻🍻
Do you have any video on golden strong ale (Duvel)? My fan of that style is Lucifer but cant really get it anymore. :(.
I have some videos on Belgian styles. Nothing specific to Duvel but in the same family. Just search for my name and Belgian. This should help narrow it down.
Just brewed this one and on the way of fermentation. I am keen on tasting it soon! Thanks David.
By the way: During the mash the circulation almost stuck. I then added rice huls. I don’t think that my grain crush was to fine since I never had problems with that so far. It looked the same as yours in the video.... what do you think could have went wrong?
Great , thanks.
Hmm ok, did you add the grain stirring as you added and then spent time breaking it up more?
Yes I add grain in 1/5 portions, stir for 30seconds and then add an other portion...
Once all is added I would suggest that you spend 3-5 mins stirring and breaking it up more.
Hi David, enjoyed your video once again. I'm gonna try and brew this soon! I wanted to ask you something though, it's more a general question than really specific to this video. Hope you can answer!
#1: I see you're using the stainless steel stirrer, I'm considering getting it since my plastic stirrer is bending when stirring bigger grain bills. Does this not scratch the inside and/or bottom plate of the GF? Especially when scraping the bottom while boiling?
#2: I read different opinions on how to use the top plate. Some people say push it down, some say let it just touch the water. Can you share your view on this with me?
Thanks again, you're a big help to me!
Sorry for the late reply, YT has some errors with message reporting recently so I only just got to see this! Here are some answers for you:- 1) I use a wooden mash paddle for this purpose, works well :)
2) For the best results I have found pushing it to the grain and then adjusting it just above brings the best efficiency.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew No problem. Happy you managed to reply to me! Thanks again for the advices. Still getting to know my GF system! :)
Thanks for your understanding. I like to reply quickly to people, so this YT fault came as a shock!
Hi David sounds good,where can I find a 23ltr recipe
You can quickly scale it yourself after watching my guide video here:- ruclips.net/video/EiGUQgW2xmI/видео.html
Hi Dave, thank you for sharing this recipe.
I have been wanting to try this for a while but my local homebrew store just can't get stock of the bitter orange, only sweet. Should I substitute this for something else? Any suggestions?
Hi Clayton, I prefer this as a mix but you may enjoy all as sweet orange. The bitter orange is a tricky thing to sub.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks Dave, I will give it a go
Great :)
David thanks for all your videos, they are of extraordinary quality! Question: I've been using a hop spider and havn't been making a strict habit of a vigorous whirlpool. Have you found that the excellent whirlpools your do with the drill bit are the key step to being able to throw in the hops without a bag/spider and avoid pump filter clogs? Do you reckon a cheap paint stir drill attachment would do the same job?
Thanks Mark, much appreciated :) Yes the whirlpool will certainly help with this for sure. Though its primary function is clarity of wort. I seldom use a hop spider even for huge hop monsters. Cheap paint paddles will usually not be foodsafe and could be a hazard. Stick with stainless steel. The GF paddle isnt that expensive but any ss paddle will do it.
Hello, I allowed the beer to ferment at temperatures above 25 degrees and overfermented, the beer turned out to be very sour. How to get out of the situation? can I add some syrup? density is 2
The best way would be to blend the beer with another for balancing.
Hi David. I’ve just brewed this today and and keen to get a better understanding of the conditioning process. You say that this will need a few months for this to be at it’s optimum but how do you maintain a constant conditioning temperature of say 14 degrees for 3-4 months? With changing seasons, the temperature fluctuations would vary considerably over time. I was thinking of trying to store in kegs in my fridge set to it’s maximum temperature setting of 10 degrees for this period. Would this lower temperature have a negative affect on the beer? My other thoughts were either a wine fridge ($$) or a Rapt fermentation chamber. Am I over thinking this??
14C is the optimum temperature. All we can do at home is get as close to this as possible. So if you can manage 10C or 18C then there will be no harm done. The harm is done when you exposure the conditioning beer to temperatures that are either too cold or are too hot. Luckily these are not liveable temperatures for us either, so generally homes will provide an area that is suitable. Temperature fluctuations are also fine, as long as you avoid the extreme.
Thanks David. No problem. Being fairly new to Homebrewing I was concerned that I have put a lot of effort into this brew and potentially ruining it and waiting 3 months later to taste would have been disheartening. Will sure to post on your FB page once it’s ready for drinking! Cheers 🍺
Great, yes would be awesome to see an update :)
Hi David! Just a great video. Will brew this today...Think I have everything now, last ingredients was purchased this morning... At what temperature are you storing the beer ( for several months ) after the fermentation ? Most say your videos are the best when it comes to home brewing! Very instructional. Keep up!
Great to hear Rickard :) Try to store ales as close to 14C as you can. Main thing is not much colder or hotter. 21 is fine but much hotter will not be good for example.
David Heath Homebrew Thanks David! Was a long brew day. As Im unused to this type of beer. Had to dry my sweet orange peels in the morning , as I could not find any in the local brew store. But worked out nicly,internet is great :-). Did a doubble batch in my Braumeister. Got a OG 1070 ( pre boil and pre candi at 1056), a bit suprised about that. I heard your comments about the cooling spiral stopping the boiling process. I have the same problem, and I feel the Braumeister is a bit weak in heating. I think it is a bit irritating to get the boil process to stop..So I started to use my sparge water heater and ’pre heat’ my spiral in that. I fill the heater (16L ), use the needed sparge water and then fill it (if neded)so the sprial will be covered. And put the heater at 98C. Drop the sprial in the heater. By that my sprial doesnt stop the boiling process as Its boiling hot when i drop it in the wort. Thanks again for great videos!
Great :) Yes, the heating of the spiral is a smart way to go to get around this :)
David Heath Homebrew Hi David! Looks like we have the same Grainfather fermenter. Yon mention not cap the temp in start of the fermentation process. Can you do that in the Grainfather fermenter? I havent found that function. And when using the steel ’paddel’ , are you just making sure to keep it high enough in the wort, to not hit the ’pin’ that stand up from the bottom of the fermenter? Just curious how you do..Just bought a paddel, and would like to use it in the fermenter as you do. Before I used a platic bucket (shake..) beteewen the Braumeister and my steel fermenter . My ‘Leffe’ SG currently at 1013. Btw, Humlegården is my go to shop here in Sweden, nice guys. Take care! Rickard
Hi David, What water profile would you recommend for brewing this
A balanced profile is usually to the majority of peoples taste for this kind of style.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you for the quick reply
Enjoy 🍻🍻🍻
Great video but I have a couple of questions. First did you use an entire packet of M31 for your fermentation?
Second what’s your opinion of bottling after fermentation rather than conditioning in a carboy? I’ve never done the later option and had good results is all. Keep up the great work.
Thank you :) Yes I used the entire packet, no issues at all. You could simply bottle it and wait but the end result will not be as good.
I’m new to AG homebrewing and because of you I’ve just bought a Brewzilla 🤣 living close to Belgium I’d like to start with something like this. PS. Did you filter the orange peels at the end or they stay in the fermenter?
Great to hear Stefano, welcome to the best hobby :) The orange peel is left behind when you transfer into the fermenter from the brew.
Due to a stuff up I didn't get my EKG hops, out of magnum, hallertauer and tettnang which is what I have on hand what would be best. Cheers
Hi Adam, either of the last two or a mix if you like :)
Thanks David 👍
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David. Please can you advise me? I’m going to make this beer next and have upscaled it to 23l using the Grainfather app. But here in Australia I could only get powered bitter and sweet orange peel. Should I use the same quantity that you used as, this won’t get filtered out? Cheers David, love your videos.
Hey, Hmmm I've never used powdered, so its really hard to know what to advise you here. I suspect that if it is a 100% powdered product then the result would be the same. Perhaps a post on an Australian forum would be best for a quick and relevant answer?
Welshie Metalhead hi there, I am in New Zealand and brewing this recipe next weekend. I have the same problem here I can only get powdered orange peel. Did you ask the question on an Aussie page regarding powder vs dehydrated peel if you did what answers did you get? Cheers
Luke Robertson Hi Luke. I ended up just using the powered peel in the same quantities that David used. Tasted great and ended up being the clearest beer I’ve made with the Grainfather so far.
Welshie Metalhead thank you for your reply. great news, I have the peel all ready for action have made candi sugar as it’s bloody hard to come by here in nz. Did you bulk age the brew or age it in the bottle? I am planning on bulk aging in a 23l carboy
Luke Robertson I ballsed it up a bit and ended up ageing it in a keg. It tasted great though, so happy days.
Have you made any changes to this recipe in the past two years?
No, none at all. The recipe took some time to tweak but it is finished. I only share recipes that are tried and tested.
David, I’m sure someone has asked it before. At 6:20 you store your sanitizer solution in a jug. How many times do you re-use the solution and how long can you keep it for?
I find it lasts for some months. Just make sure what you sanitise is clean and that the ph is below 3.5 and all will be good for reuse.
I find it lasts for some months. Just make sure what you sanitise is clean and that the ph is below 3.5 and all will be good for reuse.
I find it lasts for some months. Just make sure what you sanitise is clean and that the ph is below 3.5 and all will be good for reuse.
Brewed on Sunday Sept 1st 2018
Yeast: MJ Belgian Triple M31
Post Boil SG: 1.070 / overshot my efficiency
Post Fermentation FG: 1.006
Est ABV 8.40%
1st week of fermentation @ 65°
Let it free rise to room temp indoors to 74° held there for another 14 days
Terminal gravity reached after 21 days into fermentation
Racked to clean secondary on Sept 22nd purged w/CO2 and sealed
Held @ 45° for 6 weeks
Bottled November 3rd @ 2.8 volumes of CO2 and conditioned for 28 days @ 72°
December 1st placed bottles into refrigerator @ 45° for additional lagering
December 14, 2018 opened a bottle for tasting
Notes: Slightly sweet/malty with hints of fruit, spices and very effervescent with a nice creamy head and good lacing. Clean on the nose with slight hint of hop aroma still needs more conditioning as the bitterness hasn't balanced yet.
Thanks Mark, very nice account :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I was watching your videos before I ever brewed my first batch of beer. This month I am 1 year into brewing and just bottled my 18th batch a Munich Helles. Each brew day I try to improve my process and just let the fermenting wort do it's thing giving it time to finish. Following your guide lines and using a good recipe editor to scale for my equipment has made every beer a success.
That is a great track record. I am very glad that my videos have proven useful for you :)
Thanks David , I didn't realise you needed to age these beers. I will have another go as the last one was a flop
Yes, its key for these styles for sure.
Hey David! Iwe just started out and im wondering as for my.first brew i took a hydrometer reading post boil due to adding honey to the brew on flame out! Was it wrong of me to not take a pre boil value? Cant seem to wrap my head around why and why not to take the reading pre boil contra post boil?
It really depends what numbers you have access to. Some brew calcs give more than others. For most people its a case of using a refractometer 10 minutes before the end of the boil to see that all is about right before concluding the brew. The hydrometer is then used at the end to confirm. On a side note I would never boil honey, it kills the flavour. Check this video out for more information on honey:- ruclips.net/video/-W9Y5kH-TJg/видео.html and this one for brewing measurements:- ruclips.net/video/WZgmTy_nDqs/видео.html
David who were the authors you recommend for recipes and general learning? Thanks mate. Looking for some good beer books.
Hi Nick. I would suggest John Palmer and Randy Mosher. Quite different writers for sure but both great writers.
Thanks David. It's people like you that restore faith in humanity. Cheers.
Hi again David. I'm getting ready to brew the Belgian Blonde, but have a question I hope you can answer. When bulk conditioning this beer. What temperature should I store the beer at? can it be stored in a fridge at 5-6 degrees C?
It is best to store it as close to 14 deg c as possible. This is the best temperature for ales to condition at. Lagers styles enjoy fridge temperatures. Only add ales to the fridge when you planning to drink them in the next 30-60 minutes.
Thanks again for the quick reply. I don't have a basement, so 14 degrees could be difficult during the summer. I have a room that the sun doesn't heat up. It usually is about 17-18 degrees in that room. This will not ruin the beer I hope.
No, that will be fine. 14 is optimal but not essential.
Very interested to make this. I would like to make 24 liters, is it safe to multiply ingredients by two ?
Great. It is important to add the recipe into a recipe calculator. The grain will be double but the hops will not be. Plenty of free options out there :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I do own a paid version of newest BeerSmith, but unfortunately don't have much experience using it :-) some day
@@DavidHeathHomebrew got my ingredients for 24 liter batch today, got the numbers corrected by grainfather site scale option.
You mentioned in video you bulk age it and then add fresh yeast - could you share some information on that subject ? Since it's a big batch i will bottle some once i hit fg and some i will transfer to carboy for aging.
which color has Melano? we have melano 40 melano 60 and 75
I would suggest the lightest one in colour.
Hi David, is there any harm in bottling with a champagne yeast and then leaving for a few months rather than putting in a carboy? What temp would you keep the bottles? I'm in Brisbane so the warmer the better.
Hi Tom, no harm at all but it will condition slower than in bulk. Temps in the 20s will be fine. Check out the max temp on the yeast. I use Larvin 1118 personally.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew great thanks for the advice. That's what I have got, some EC1118. P.s. thanks for the raspberry sour recipe. Tastes great.
Great :)
is the preconditioning in growler any better than when just refermenting in a bottle and leaving for a couple of months/weeks?
Hi Kamil, Ive noted a marginal improvement using 2L growlers compared to 500ml bottles. The best gains though, by far are 15L plus. I think beer like this are better off in smaller bottles in the end really.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the response! So this seems to be so-called secondary fermentation. Correct me if I'm wrong:) Is this a procedure you apply to every other ales (except for kveik and hoppy beers maybe)? Or is it suited for this particular recipe? Cheers!
Hi David. How about a video on bulk conditioning? Thanks👍
Check this out:- ruclips.net/video/hyCNxiSFARo/видео.html :)
Thanks David. Does the same go for keg conditioning?
Or would you condition prior to putting in the corney?
If you intend to keg a beer then bulk conditioning is still relevant, you can use the keg for the bulk conditioning. The same temp rules and time guides apply though. I do mine in carboys because I do not wish to tie a keg up for such a long period.
Hey David, great video. I just brewed a Belgian Blonde and had some good fermentation for the first 24 hours. From 24 hours onwards, the bubbling almost came to a standstill but still seeing some good head/foam on the wort. How long did your vigorous bubbling continue for? Is it normal for it to reduce significantly from day 2 onwards?
Thank you. Fermentation can take different twists and turns. Keep an eye on it and see how the gravity goes.
How did it turn out? Mine went great for acouple of days and stalled at about 0014. I ramped up the temp and its off again.
That can happen. Good that you got it restarted :)
Hi David. I’ll be trying a scaled up version of your recipe tomorrow. What is the timing of the sugar addition?
Hi, I usually add them within the last 15 minutes but the timing is very open as long as its in the last half of the boil.
Ok, I started at about the 15 minute mark, as I had to dissolve 530 grammes for scaled version. Surprisingly I hit the predicted numbers, except, I got about 21.5 litres in then FV instead of 23, so pretty happy with the end result thus far.
Great. Thats the issue with sugars, they can be within a range of gravity. I am sure you will love this beer :)
Honestly cant wait ti try it in a couple months time for my 50th!
Great :)
Could I age this in a corny keg until ready to add co2?
Yes 🍻🍻🍻 But flush with co2 right from the start to remove oxygen.
Hi David, great video as always! If I may, I have a question: I will be using BIAB to brew this recipe. Could you please tell me how much strike water I should start off with (for a 12L batch?)? I've just recently started homebrewing and I am still a bit unfamiliar with water to grain ratio and how to covert Grainfather recipes to BIAB. Thanks!
Thank you. I would suggest that you look at brewing software to work all of this out for you. I would recommend Brewfather highly. Within this software you can then add in your equipment details. Then save recipes (up to 10 I believe in the free version) and it will calculate water for you. In this video I have a guide to using Brewfather and mention another channel that has made an equipment set up guide:- ruclips.net/video/5U0Hama2NwM/видео.html
You will find that my more recent recipe videos share a link to the recipe in BF. All you need to do then is select your equipment and balance the hops to your own.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you! :)
:)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Quick question: I uploaded this recipe on to Brewfather with your system and the software suggested 24.11L of mash water and 0.19L of sparge water. Is this right? When I convert it to BIAB, the software suggests 7.61L of mash water and 10.38L of sparge water. Just wanted to know what you think about this. Cheers.
Hi David. If I wasn't able to get hold of candi sugar and used dextrose instead would any adjustment be worthwhile to add body?
I seen to recall you commented that this beer would be better in smaller bottles, rather than bigger ones. Why is that? Would that hold true if I aren't able to age it in bulk, and age in bottles?
Many thanks.
Candi sugar is more about adding something fermentable with flavour. So if you cannot obtain it then syrup would be a better substitute. These are made for homebrewers and have clear instructions as to how much to use compared to candy sugar. In terms of sizing, this is the opposite :) This is from a conditioning perspective. Best to use a carboy for conditioning in bulk before transfer into bottles or a keg. Anything with alcohol conditions faster in bulk.
Sounds like a great recipe, David. I will scale this to 23L, but wondering whether that would mean two sachets of M31?
Also you might want to change the category of your recipe from "18A Blonde Ale" to "25A Belgian Blond Ale" in Grainfather Recipe Tools.
I would just use one sachet still for 23L. Thanks on the category, I will fix that.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Why is this David?
One sachet is enough :)
when is nessesary to add sugar?
As long as you add it during the boil then all good :)
David what is the ideal sulfate to chloride ratio for this style? Brewfather gives a ratio of 0.5 and says too full or malty?
Perhaps you have too little of the two for it to make a difference.
This looks delicious, David! I love Leffe Blonde, and I've been looking for a recipe just like this.
I have a question. When I scale the recipe up to 23 liters in the recipe tool, the extras stays at 15g bitter, 15g sweet and 10g coriander. Is this right?
Lars
Hi Lars, No these also need to be upscaled also. Kind of weird that they arent upscaling! So at 23L for the two peel additions this would be 28,75g of each and for the coriander this would become 19.16g.
Thanks a lot. Can't wait to give this a try!
BTW. I've tried to scale multiple recipes now (just to test), and the extras always stays the same. Bug?
No problem. Yes I believe it must be. I will report it to them.
I was looking for a different style beer to brew. Thanks for the inspiration David.
My pleasure :)
Dave, I just brewed the Belgian blonde! Had to go with the Belgian Strong ale yeast because the brew shop had no Belgian trippel. I noticed in your video you say to allow fermentation temp to rise naturally. But I have mine in a temperature regulated ferm chamber that holds a specific temp. Is that still ok? Great video!!
Yes, though it can mess with yeast health if the yeast is by nature a hot strain.
Hi David. I'm planning making this in near future, but was a bit surpriced by the relatively high mashing temperature. Are there any risks with this, i.e. too high FG?
Hi Håvar, This recipe and its calculations are based on the best end result for the style. If you would prefer a lower FG then you can mash at a lower temp but this will take the end beer away from its intended balance.
Thanks David. I have the same yeast and will follow your procedure. Belgian Blonde is one of my favourites.
Having said that, that list seems getting just longer and longer.
Great and yes, this is my problem too :)
I just made this beer and my after boil Gravity is1065 for a 5 gallon batch
🍻🍻🍻
what temperature should the water be when you need to add malt before the first pause
I use the mash temperature. This is common in countries with 220-240v when using electric brewers. Only those in low voltage countries need a higher temperature due to the less powerful heating.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I mean the temperature of the malt filling
Yes, So do I :) I add the malt at the starting mash temp. The brewing system is fast to heat it as needed.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Does this mean that when the temperature reaches 70 ° C, you add malt? or early ?
Usually the first mash step with be 65 C
Hi. I see you dont use the hop strainer in this process. What is the reason for that? Do you normally use it?
Hi Lars, Not very often no! They help with clean up but mean you need to add 10% more hops. As long as you whirlpool then you will have no issues.
Thanks, that was a very useful information for me....can you wirlpool several times during the boil, or just at the end? (bought the GF Brewing Paddle)
Great. Some brewers do a "mini whirlpool" when adding large amounts of hops before the end of the brew. Be careful with this, its best to stop when you see that your temperatures are starting to drop. Hope this helps.
OK, I understand, can do a mini whirlpool during and a full whirlpool at the end, just be careful not to hit the bottom strainer. Thanks
Yup thats it :) I just dip the main part of the paddle in and that works well and with no issues.
David do you think a Belgium blonde style can be achieved with a kveik yeast? And if so what yeast?
Not to a 100% authentic level no if you want the spice but if you simply want fruity flavours then sure. Commericial kveik wise Omegas Hothead would probably work well for you. It is based on Hornindal kveik.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your thougths. Belgian Blonde is easily the style I and my wife tend to drink and enjoy the most. So for next year; I will be sure to start early in the year to brew a well matured original style beer more to be more authentic.
For now I am just looking for something that resembles it and can be brewed and matured faster. Omega hothead doesnt seem to be much available in the Netherlands. What about Opshaug (Whitelabs) or Voss (Lallemand)? Or should it try my best and get a Hothead?
Both of those are clean fermenting. Naturally you can add in flavours by adding in spices and things like orange and lemon peel. This would work :)
Thank you for sharing this, I will surely try it soon!
On another totally unrelated note, do you happen to be this David Heat en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gangrel_(wrestler) (professional wrestler)
Great hope you enjoy it :) Yes, thats me :P Haha :)
Would you still recommend 90 minute boil?
Only if you are using pilsner malt that has been produced in very basic old traditional ways. Modern malt from mainstream maltsters will not require 90 minutes and a modern 30 minute boil can be used.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew cheers! I'll give this one a go and enjoy it during the Midsummer Fest
What profile would you suggest David?
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
I prefer a balanced profile for these personally.
Which grain mill you are using?
Ive got a Monster mill 3 roller pro.
Nice recipe. I didn't knew you were from Norge. :)
Thanks :) Yes I live in Bergen :)
what is the volume of the main mash and rinsing water?
Depends on the brewing system you are using. The easy way is to use brewing software like Brewfather, which can be free with limitations that may not bother you. This will give you all water info for each brew.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Usually, according to a specific recipe, they write how much water is needed for the main and rinse mash, in your case, how much water was needed for 12 liters of beer? So that I can calculate my volume and get the given beer density.
Ok, I can show you what I used but it will vary depending on your equipment. I used a Grainfather G30. Mash volume 11.11L, sparge volume 9.64L. This gave 12L.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I'm using nordsteam 160L, you can see it in my video. It's steam boiler
I would suggest making an equipment profile for it on Brewfather.
Can i just double this beer recipe to make 5 gallon batch
Sadly not, you will need to convert it in a beer calculator. Check this out:- ruclips.net/video/EiGUQgW2xmI/видео.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew do you have this in a 5gal recipe
No :) but you can easily convert it. Here is a video guide:- ruclips.net/video/EiGUQgW2xmI/видео.html
Can you do a step mash
Yes, I suggest that in the video :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew my math may have been wrong on up Up scaling the adjuncts