Wow, this is probably the most professionally explained video I've ever seen. It's extremely precise from start to finish. I have so much respect for you and your team right now, you have no idea! If everyone took as much pride in their work as you, we'd have had world peace 1,000 years ago.
I have 20 years carpentry experience, 10 years electrical, 12 years as a locomotive technician, but I could never understand concrete. Just never figured it out.
@@krakenwoodfloorservicemcma5975 I’ve never heard of a locomotive technician, what did you do exactly? Did you fix mechanical problems or deal with electronics or something?
Yes I dealt with all the locomotive electrical systems and software.. those machines are rolling power plants basically so they are a pain the ass to keep running. Completely trouble free.
Hands down...the amount of information you shared in real time was excellent!! Also, the side by side as you explained everything. This video is worth more then it's weight in gold. Thank You
I've watched about a hundred vids on concrete floors and toppings. You sir have done the best at explaining the process. Thanks. I was being to think folks were purposely leaving it out so the public wouldn't do it themselves.
@@nicholaswirth1011 thanks so much. Appreciate the compliment. The ones I’ve seen from your area really do look like solid craftsmanship at work. Thanks again-
Thanks for sharing this very informative video. I plan doing the whole floor of my new house with a concrete slab and wasn't sure which way to finish it. Polished concrete is now my preferred finish.
You’re welcome. Thank you for the positive comments. If you have any questions as you proceed to finish your new home’s floor, please don’t hesitate to contact me. Thank you again. Josh151@me.com
I second Mr. Furley's accolade...! 5 min 32 sec of absolute knowledge, likely the best and most informative concrete flooring resurfacing video on YT. Anyone you know (trust) in Colorado that can do this type of quality work?
Wow! Thank you so much for the kind words. You made my day. Colorado...definitely know a few good people out that way. If you wouldn’t mind sending me your city, I can send you a few contacts. Pls feel free to email me anytime- josh@substratetechnology.com Thank you again.
Josh this was a great video. Everything needed for both systems was nice to see. Plenty of years with epoxy but never had the chance to work on the polished floors. Lot's to learn so I'll look forward to seeing more of your expertise.
Thanks so much, Steve. I really appreciate the compliment. Polished concrete is similar to coatings in that the education never ends.😂 Thanks again, bud. I appreciate it.
First off, super informative video. There were a lot more steps, especially for a polished look, than I expected. In terms of the polished concrete process, if you were starting with a relatively new and defect free machine troweled smooth surface, where in your extensive process would you likely begin?
Thank you very much. If the slab is done well, then I would start with a 100 or 200 grit copper pad. This would only expose the fine sand, but that’s the best way to avoid grouting, and preserve the dense matrix created by proper slab placement. Thank you again for the compliment. I appreciate it.
Excellent presentation , high communicative skills . I´ve learned technics that I could never imagine that exist for terrazzo floor. Thank you and cheers from Helsinki , Finland. Here HTC and other Swedish companies monopolize floor preparation systems.
Thank you very much. Your words are very kind. I appreciate the positive feedback from a professional. Thank you again and best wishes for a prosperous new year.
Love to see the difference! Is there such thing and clear epoxy? I love the look of the polished with the raw concrete. But I feel epoxy is a more durable finish?
That’s a good point. Epoxy is a more chemically resilient surface (when topped with a urethane or Polyaspartic). Polished is better for abrasion resistance but has little to no chemical resistance. The choice of which is better relates directly to how the floor will be used. Thanks for the helpful input. It is appreciated.
@@joshjones8047 Would Polished concrete do ok with something like pet urine? Thinking of doing this on the interior of my home but want to make sure the occasional dog accident won't be a problem. thank you in advance.
@@THANOS_Disciple that’s a good question. For people who own pets, it would be my choice to finish a slab with a high wear urethane. It’s abrasion resistant and also chemically resilient. There are different qualities and styles of these coatings. Whatever one is chosen, the technical data sheet should show test results of the coating’s ability to resist damage caused by common chemicals like urine.
I just got schooled. Awesome video. I need to watch this a few times to absorb all. Certainly a different approach to a “polished” concrete. I’m thinking it as a hybrid because of the two skim coatings.
Thanks so much. Probably start with a google search and then ask whoever is chosen for their references. Social media is loaded with contractors posting some really nice work. If the service provider is experienced, he or she will be happy to provide past clients as references.
Great video. At 1 min you say because the holes were large you decided to seal it with epoxy and marble powder. Is that correct? You mixed marble powder with the epoxy? Would silica sand done the same?
@@michaelpechbrenner614 Thank You. The epoxy and marble powder are used because they polish well enough to blend with the concrete. Silica sand tends to stay dull despite the polishing. It would be durable but not reflective. Thanks again-
This is a tough one to address since there are different conditions that will make one a better candidate over the other. Excluding the aesthetic differences, the primary difference between each is chemical resistance. A coating system can be formulated to resist a harsh acid. Polished concrete, by contrast, will etch from pro longed exposure to orange juice or ketchup. As for abrasion, either can be damaged if they aren’t kept clean. Dry storage and/or limited exposure to chemicals- either will work. Expected exposure to acidic chemicals- a coating is the best choice. I hope this helps to clarify what was omitted.
Truest professional and I am impressed with this video and just subscribed. Thank you for a video that actually showing all aspects of this. Great video!
This is a VERY interesting video. While I find the differences in the techniques of polishing vs epoxy covering fascinating, I would be even more interested in your takes on the reasons for selecting one over the other. In essence, I would like to hear your take on the pros and cons of polishing and sealing vs epoxy coating. I would like to have my 2 car garage floor either epoxied or polished. Thank you for the video, and in advance for any reply!!
Thank you. Polished concrete is considered a high traction surface when clean. If it gets wet while dirty (dust or dirt is all it takes), it will be very slippery. Another drawback to use in a garage is exposure to oil or whatever else may fall off a vehicle. My choice for a garage would be a coating. It’s resilient and able to be made slip resistant, clean or dirty. Polished concrete is perfect for dry areas. It’s a durable surface as long as it’s kept clean and not subject to chemical attack. If the area is expected to be spilled upon, a coating is the best choice.
@@joshjones8047Thanks. I have a bicycle shop with old concrete floors and previous owners tried carpet and linoleum which both failed. I've considered coating the concrete. Is there anything I should consider in an epoxy?
@@slackjaw4270 I think your choices are pretty open for an epoxy floor surface. There’s the option of opaque coatings such as a solid color, decorative quartz, or flake floor. The durability of each will be acceptable for that environment and traffic type. There’s also the option of what’s called a ‘grind and seal’. This is s durable system as well, provided the resin type is one that’s appropriate to the traffic. Coatings options for your shop are pretty open and more up to you for the aesthetic benefit a specific system will support.
I am a pro when it comes to cedar decks. Concrete , well, I'll probably just wheel pressure it , maybe add a simple sealer which will need to be repeated yearly
That’s a good question. Either process is pretty involved. A two-car (400SF) being polished takes a day if appropriate sized equipment is used. This assumes the floor does not require repairs or grout as was shown. If a coating is being done, it’s a two day (faster reacting chemicals allow it to be done in a day) process if the floor requires no repairs. To clarify about the demonstrated coating system, this one is more appropriate for an industrial application. A residential appropriate system is only two or three total coats.
Excellent video !! You present it so clear and concise easy to understand !! I was wondering which one would be considered a healthier floor to breathe & less toxic and which one would be stronger last longer ? Any recommendations for companies in the Temecula Ca area ? 👍👍
Thank you so much for the kind words. I appreciate it. Either surface can be maintained using water and a microfiber. I like an epoxy for its resilience and ease of cleaning should oils or acidic compounds be dropped. Polished concrete is abrasion resistant. Epoxy systems are chemically resistant. It’s really more a matter of what the area use will be that should determine the flooring type. About Temecula, I’ll ask at our office who we might know in that area. Thank you again for the compliment.
Thanks so much. The grinder/polisher is a Prep/Master: substratetechnology.com/product/prep-master-2807-floor-grinding-machine/ The shotblaster is an IMPACTS: substratetechnology.com/product/impacts-s210e-shot-blaster-8-inch/
Thank you very much. I would be happy to give you some local contractors that can provide floor coating or polishing. Please email me at prepmaster75@gmail.com and I’ll send you the contacts that way. Thank you again.
Thank you for the positive input. Polished concrete does look good when done correctly. As far as longevity, it all depends on the environment. Thank you again.
Thanks so much for the compliment. The question is difficult to answer precisely because labor rates vary by region. I think it’s a safe generalization to make that polishing will be more expensive than the coating system shown because of the steps (labor) required to do it. Where the polish has a potential for being a better value is in its abrasion resistance and related maintenance costs. Still, the choice of polish or coating should be first made for its ability to withstand the expected traffic. Cost would be a factor in the decision but only after determining what system the floor needs. Thanks again.
Which do you like better for an automotive shop floor? I have a hobby shop where I maintain 10 cars. My 80x40 shop has a sealed floor, but it stains from all the oils over the years. It's a working shop, so it will take a lot of abuse. I like the ability of the epoxy to repel oils, but don't like it's propensity to chip and mar. The polished floors I've heard stain.... Where is your business located?
@@davidedwards3052 thanks for the request. For a shop and chemical repellency, I’d choose for a coating. Regular maintenance and correct cleaning chemicals will help to extend the coating’s appearance but they will eventually need to be replaced. Our business is located in Morris IL.
great video but the cost is never mentioned. cost of polished vs epoxy.. i know it costs between 2-4k for most garages to epoxy with lifetime warranty but your company has not mentioned it even once.
Thanks for the input. The cost varies for either process based upon market and system. Also, this video is a few years old and prices have gone up. Thanks again-
Is the polished concrete slippery? - I'm converting my garage to a rental unit. Demolition the old slanted concrete and after plumbing and radiant heat tubes installed - a new concrete pour. I really like the look and (non)maintenance of the polished floor - but I'm concerned about potential slips and accidents.
Thank you so much for your informative video. From your video, it looks like the polished concrete has a much nicer look-is that correct? Do you provide service in the Metrowest Boston area? Best to you.
Joshua Grant you’re welcome. Thank you for the kind words. The polished concrete appearance is certainly unique. A coated surface is more utilitarian to provide chemical resistance that a polished floor cannot. For service, I represent a manufacturer but am happy to send your inquiry to a local service provide. Please feel free to email me at josh@substratetechnology.com and I’ll connect you with a company that can do the work. Thank you again.
Thanks so much. To answer your question, epoxy doesn’t do well outdoors. Polyaspartic and urethane based products are more appropriate for exterior applications.
I've watched so many concrete prep videos in preparation for epoxying my floors, and no one has done anything even close to this. Terrifying to think how underworked my floor is, but I don't have access to one of these machine, much less the multiple (I imaging thousands of dollars worth of) diamond bits. Hope my floor doesn't peel up in a year.
Simple and all basic information about the processes love this video... Epoxy vs polished, mechanic home shop... Work on diesel trucks etc... I'm worried about chipping, does the densifier help strengthen the concrete? Expoxy brand recommendation, also does gasoline effect either of them? Your recommendation for my scenario.
Thank you very much for the compliment. With regard to the polished surface and its ability to resist chipping, it all depends on the force of dropped tools or metal parts. Densifier makes it more difficult to scratch the surface, but does not affect its ability to withstand impact. An impact resistant coating can withstand dropped parts, but the system’s performance is largely based upon thickness and type. As the system becomes more thick, of course, the cost to install rises too. For resistance to gasoline, a coating is the only way to prevent surface stains or absorption. Polished concrete will have little ability to hold back any chemical. Thanks again for the positive response and the great questions.
@@joshjones8047 Josh, do you have any experience with penetrating sealers like Dayton Superior PentaGuard or Ameripolish SR 2? They say they are oleophobic but it also sounds like maybe eventually oil will get through (like if there is a car leaking oil little by little over a number of months.
@@jeffa847 thanks for the good question. I have used SR2. It’s a fantastic product. As you point out, though, it only buys time for the spill to be cleaned. If oil or other stain creating liquids are left to dwell, they will eventually get through the protective layer. Thanks again.
Thank you for the compliment. A polished floor wouldn’t be slippery wet or dry when clean. If it’s anticipated that chemicals (soap) and water will regularly be on the floor, then a coating with an anti slip additive would be better. It wouldn’t have to be as involved a system as shown in the video. It could be a one or two coat aliphatic urethane system.
Haha! I’d love to have a respite behind a grinder and working your floor. If you do need a service provider, I’m happy to make a recommendation for your area. My email is prepmaster75@gmail.com. Feel free to contact me there and I’ll help if I can.
Thank you very much, Marcin. Thanks, too, for the advice about enhancing the content. I’ve been doing flooring work for a few decades, but still very novice when it comes to RUclips. Thank you again.
Have you ever done an exposed aggregate floor and clear epoxy and added the grit clear sand? I love the look of the exposed aggregate but need some grip when garage floor gets wet, Thanks.
I have not done this personally, but that type of floor can be done quite easily. I would suggest you consult your epoxy supplier about clear coatings that are made to be slip resistant. Many industrial applications require a slip resistant clear coat for their floors, so your requirement should be easy to meet. For creating your own system I would recommend that you follow a reputable supplier’s system. The concept of adding sand to a coating is quite easy, but some coatings will actually fail sooner because they do not have the ability to encapsulate an added material. Thank you for the great question.
Hey Josh! I'm constructing a multi floor building for Car service center. Right now I'm preparing for slab(still concrete has not been filled). Can you recommend best concrete flooring where oil/chemicals/grease can be cleaned easily and enough grip for cars to move. Thanks!
Thank you for the request. My advice is a coating that is chemically formulated to resist damage or staining from the chemicals you expect to be present. For abrasion resistance and grip, it’s also something to verify in the coating’s formulation and design. If it were my floor, my choice would be an epoxy and urethane system (like in the video). While it’s not the hardest wearing surface, it’s one that can be any color of the rainbow, is easy to clean, has good surface traction, and will be plenty durable for low speed vehicle traffic. As always, surface preparation is most important to any product performing to its full potential. Your choice of product and installer is also important so that the quality of placement and chemistry provides you a durable surface.
Hello Josh, enjoyed your video , a lot of good information you have shared. I want to do my basement flood. I am here in Ellenwood Ga. outside of ATL. Can you give please me a POC who can provide this service? I am thinking about doing it polish. Thanks!
Thank you very much, Calvin. I really appreciate the kind words. My email is prepmaster75@gmail.com. If you could email there, I will send you a few contacts in your area.
Thank you, Lamaur. For a laundromat I would recommend a coated system. Basic chemicals such as bleach and detergent could easily damage a polished floor.
@@lamaurprice7756 either can “work”. Polished concrete would be more apt to be etched by the chemicals whereas a coating would not. As far as traffic, mostly foot traffic I assume, this is not enough to wear either surface excessively.
Hi,Josh i have been in this business for awhile and I am impressed with the knowledge and your attention to detail. Do you have a program to enroll in to learn from you personally? Thanks amazing!!!
Thank you very much, Robert. I really appreciate your compliments. About any kind of program, I regularly share what I’ve learned on social media and sporadically upload content to RUclips. If there is any topic you would like to see covered, I am always happy to receive suggestions. Please feel free to email me anytime. Josh151@me.com. Thank you again for your kind words. You made my day.
Great video. I want to do polished concrete in my garage at home. If you were doing polished concrete in your own garage what grind level would you stop at? And if you were to use a clear sealant, would you choose polyurethane, polyaspartic or epoxy? Thanks in advance for the reply.
Thanks so much, Greg. A floor that’s been ground and sealed is a great look. Polished concrete is one that has no topical sealer that can wear. This means it is still prone to staining by oil, road salt, etc. Your idea of a floor that looks like natural concrete, but is protected by a chemically resilient top coat, is a good one. My preference is to grind the floor to expose the sand and then topcoat with an aliphatic urethane. There is the matter of best surface preparation practices to remove all dust prior to coating, but an aliphatic urethane is the most user friendly coating there is to apply. It’s a durable commercial grade product that can be incorporated with anti-slip additives (recommended for a garage). Your local SW store can offer suggestions about their aliphatic urethane or you can feel free to email me for more specific instructions. I will plan to shoot a video detailing this same process. I’ll shoot it and post it for you. Thank you again.
Haha! Thanks I think.😄 It’s not an easy question to answer. I look at it like this, polished concrete is abrasion resistant, requires only regular washing and/or dust mopping, and is moisture tolerant. Coatings provide chemical resistance that polished concrete cannot and offer a more diverse range of color choices. They can be made slip proof too. To me it’s all about the environment which floor choice is the most appropriate. I hope this was helpful, but I’m also happy to discuss further as needed. Thank you again.
@joshJones My husband is been very resistant about this flooring because of ECHO. We had a small party in our basement for my daughter and it was so Loud with echo with the plain concrete floor that he doesn't think we can keep a concrete floor. How can we make that work? I like the look and I really do not want carpet down there. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
That’s a good question. The epoxy is applied first to fill the surface pores. The marble powder is applied second and pressed into the wet epoxy. This sequence fills the fine pores with wet epoxy. The pushing of flour into wet epoxy combines the two.
If the epoxy and PU are removed and expose a good concrete slab, it is possible to polish this. A mock-up would need to be performed, but it’s theoretically possible to do this. It all depends upon the concrete quality.
Thanks for the great videos! I’ve been out of the polishing side of things for awhile now and have never grouted a floor. Do you have a recommendation on an epoxy or urethane grout product? Also, how concerned with floor moister do i have to be when applying a solvent product over a floor that was just ground with water. Thanks again for the very informative videos!!
Thanks so much for the compliment, Ryan. If I’m filling larger pin holes, then I’d use a 100% solids epoxy and marble flour. The two I’ve used that polish well and don’t leave shadows are GP3520 and Smith Paints U100. If the holes are smaller, more like excessive porosity, then I’ll use Smith Paints PCF45. As far as the moisture from wet cutting and cleaning, it would need to be given enough time to dry or be force dried. Thanks again for the kind words. They are appreciated.
That’s a good question. Testing of polished concrete has proven it can pass OSHA and ADA coefficient of friction minimums. This is true when wet or dry as long as it’s clean. The short answer is no, it’s not any more slippery than waxed tile. Because it’s so smooth, though, a dirty and wet floor will be a hazard.
Thank you for the video! I have a quick question i was hoping you may help. We are currently dealing with a bit of a botch applying a Poly top coat over our clear sealer coat. We tried to stretch out our Poly Top Coat too thin resulting in squeegee marks/roller marks. There are also some blotches of Poly in certain areas of the floor that started to harden before we were able to spread it. What would be your best recommendation for fixing these issues? I assumed we would sand out the areas where we have roller/squeegee marks to the best of our ability and then reply a Top coat. Can you help us solve this nightmare?
Happy to help. It seems to me the first thing to do would be to sand down the areas where the dried poly has created elevation inequalities. Once that’s done, the only way to not see the treatment there would be to overcoat the whole floor with another poly top coat. This probably means sanding the rest of the floor to prepare for the new overcoat, but I can’t see another way to hide the area that needed help to be smoothed. Hopefully this helps.
That’s a great question. My preference is a resilient coating because it’s chemical/stain resistant. It can also be made slip resistant with a topcoat additive. For the welding, a protective shield would be needed for either surface. Potential exposure to that amount of heat will damage a coating or polished concrete.
@@seanfaulk8641 it all depends on the look that’s preferred. A flake floor and solid color epoxy will both perform the same way. The only thing that’s different is the appearance. Flakes are popular because they offer a little more interest than a basic one color floor. Still, the topcoat that protects either type is a system’s workhorse. This is usually a urethane, but that all depends on the installer’s preference.
Great question. Polished concrete is usually more expensive because it involves more labor. In countries where labor is cheaper, coatings are more expensive.
That’s a good question. Polished concrete usually starts at $4/SF, but that’s more along the lines of commercial spaces exceeding 10,000SF. To coat a floor with a single component, clear, aliphatic urethane, it’s maybe around $3/SF. These numbers will be very different based upon local labor rates. In terms of performance and environment, polished concrete is a poor choice where chemical exposure (including oils) is expected. Coated concrete is a poor choice where abrasive surface traffic is expected.
I am using Densifier on a new pour where it has been mechanical troweled . I just wanted it hard for a hobby auto shop . Lithium densifier any options .
That’s a good question. Densifier will help as long as the surface is not covered by any membrane forming sealer. As far as benefit from the treatment, it will help to make the bonds between hard aggregates more complete. If it’s well consolidated as a product of good placement, the only other concern would be stain resistance. There are penetrating sealers that can help to limit staining. As far as polishing, there is always the option to do that in areas where more reflectivity is needed/wanted.
Thank you so much, Bob. The urethane grout is called PCF45 by Smith Paints. Its information can be found here: www.smithpaints.com/?ae_global_templates=poly-pcf-45
@@joshjones8047 Thanks Josh. Again, great informative video. You touched on some elements and descriptions that the other videos left out. Keep up the great work!
I sanded some wooden floors recently and it was horrible and boring to do, I can't imagine doing any of those type of sanding /grinding jobs for a living, it'd be hideous. Polished concrete looks good tho.
Thank you for doing this video. I have a 40yr old house and the basement concrete floor was colored enhanced applied when built. I thought an epoxy was the way I would be going until I contacted a flooring company and they recommended polished concrete would do better inside the basement of a house. Sighting it would hold up better. I like the cinnamon color of my concrete but would like to see it slightly lighter if possible. Even a gray concrete color would be desirable. Is polished concrete advisable on an existing color enhanced concrete floor?
Thank you for the request. It’s hard to say if your floor will polish to your satisfaction. The only way to know how it will look is to do a mock-up. Of course this means time and expense to do the work, but it’s all that can be done to provide a representative sample. As far as the color or overall shading, it’s been my experience that a polish will make a floor darker as it is refined. For the environment, there’s not much there that can damage a polish. It’s breathable and abrasion resistant. It’s only weakness is damage that can be caused by chemical attack. Orange juice, ketchup, soda (a few examples) can all etch the reactive surface. Some extra protection can be applied to minimize damage caused by incidental exposure to acidic compounds , but regular exposure can cause surface damage. Thanks again for the comment and request.
This is why most homeowners can't do it themselves, you have to spend 20k on equipment & all the different diamond grits.. I'm just going to buy the cheap diamond infused scrubbing pads & rent a 17" machine from home depot for my basement laundry room. It definitely won't look as good as this but I'm not to picky & it should be pretty Shiny after a coat of sealer & 3 coats of wax
Josh A very informative video and educated me a lot. I am looking to do my Garage floor and came across this video. I have sent you an email with some of the questions I had. I am posting here as well. I saw in a forum post shared by one of the Car Garage shop owner and he recommends polished concrete along with dye (if need for color) and sealing vs using epoxy. Is that a better alternative than epoxy? For epoxy, what top coat is the most durable and prevents yellowing over time? - Polyurethane or Polyaspartic? Thanks again for the great video!
Thank you very much for the kind words. If a floor is going to be colored and sealed, we call that a stain and seal. I prefer to use stain (mineral pigment) rather than dye because stain will not fade from sunlight, it is permanent its color. For the top coat, I would recommend either a polyaspartic or polyurethane. Epoxy will scratch too easily, but polyaspartic and polyurethane were made to bear traffic. Thank you again.
That’s a great question. Polished concrete containing fibers might be a little less clear in shine, but it can still look quite good. As far as coating a fiber reinforced slab, it’s a bit more tricky. The fibers can be torched, but the remaining ones will absorb the first resin coat and stick up. I’ve been told that they can be sanded after the first coat, and then should not be a problem again.
Thought you were mad to start with, then realised you were talking in milli-inches. When you first said 7 mill I thought you were using the international standard millimetre, I thought he's crazy 7mm of any resin coating will be super expensive. Then remembered you talkin in milli-inches in North America.
This is a good question. The beginning step and ending step depends upon the terrazzo’s current conditions and any sealer that may be present. Terrazzo floors are traditionally honed to a 100 or 200 and sealed. In the case of polishing, some can be specified to have a polish to 3,000 grit. Common Diamond progression can be: copper 50, 100, 200, resin 400, 800, 1800, 3000. There could be seven steps possible or maybe only two or three. It depends upon current condition and final surface requirements.
That’s a good question. Polished concrete has been tested using a dynamic slip meter to verify it can meet OSHA and NFSI standards. With this said, it’s my understanding that actual testing of a polished floor is only able to be certified when tested at each location it’s installed. So, yes, it meets the standards. Each location where installed, though, would have to be tested to protect the property owner if litigation were to occur.
Informative video Josh thank you. I am about to build a 50 x 50 4 bay garage Man Cave. On new concrete that will have moderate traffic and a wash bay what would you suggest? I really like medium gloss finish and want it to last and be durable. Just found your channel.
Thank you very much. It’s hard to say what your best choice will be. Polished concrete is a great floor for durability. Our polished shop floor sees decent traffic and is holding well. When oil or anything acidic is spilled, it does get stained or damaged, but that’s not a regular occurrence. If you like the look of polished concrete, then the only concern will be its nature of being damaged by any acid that’s left long enough to etch it. Your traffic shouldn’t cause any issues as long as you keep up with regular sweeping/dry mopping/auto scrubbing. A coating is nice (maybe a good idea in the wash bay) because it resists all chemical attack, and regular foot traffic will probably leave it looking good for at least five years. Just like the polished concrete, your regular maintenance of the surface will limit abrasion damage by dust and dirt being left on the surface. You have lots of options that might best be narrowed by budget and the look you would like.
My advice for that environment would be a coating system. The chemical attack from the dogs and subsequent cleaning would quickly degrade a polished surface. Polishing might be cheaper than a high performance coating, but that savings would be quickly lost as the polish is eaten away. You might check the web for case studies that mimic the space you have. I know of a few contractors who do kennels regularly and they install a coating system. It’s the best way in my opinion.
Good video, but I was a bit confused: you are using an Epoxy coating on BOTH samples ... not just "polished." (Yes, I understand "epoxy coating on polished floors.") Still, the issue is always "using dissimilar materials." For example, all those beautiful wood tables with poured epoxy (or polyester) resin inlay designs? Wood expands and contracts and eventually those beautiful designs will come lose. It's always a gamble when you "mix" your mediums. Even fiberglass will eventually de-laminate if not properly maintained. At that point there is no reasonable "fix."
Thank you for the compliment. You are right about dissimilar materials and the way that each will age. For epoxy grout in polished concrete, it’s longevity will depend largely upon the maintenance of the surface. If dust and sand are not regularly removed, it will start to wear the surface in an irregular way. Maintenance is very important to keep the polished look. Thank you again.
For a bus stations waiting room (foot traffic), which one would be better in terms for durability? Epoxy/polished concrete? Which one is more slip resistant when wet?
Thank you for the question. I think a polish would be very durable, but slip resistance will rely upon the floor being kept clean. A polished floor is a high traction surface wet or dry, but if dirty will be slippery. A coating would be fine for durability as well, but this also must be kept clean. The biggest mistake with floor choices is still remembering that no floor can be attractive and safe if it is not clean. Thank you again for the request. Please revert if you need further advice.
Wow, this is probably the most professionally explained video I've ever seen. It's extremely precise from start to finish. I have so much respect for you and your team right now, you have no idea!
If everyone took as much pride in their work as you, we'd have had world peace 1,000 years ago.
Wow! Thank you so much for the compliments. They are very much appreciated.
All the steps come at a cost, which most people don’t wanna pay for.
@@cryptocrush-823 very true
It's too bad the average person has no idea how much work and professionalism goes into the beautiful floors they see everyday. Great video!
Thank you very much for the compliment. I appreciate it.
This is a great video and it reinforces my belief that I should NOT redo my concrete myself.
Thank you very much, Adam, for the positive comment. I really appreciate it.
I have 20 years carpentry experience, 10 years electrical, 12 years as a locomotive technician, but I could never understand concrete. Just never figured it out.
@@krakenwoodfloorservicemcma5975 I’ve never heard of a locomotive technician, what did you do exactly? Did you fix mechanical problems or deal with electronics or something?
Yes I dealt with all the locomotive electrical systems and software.. those machines are rolling power plants basically so they are a pain the ass to keep running. Completely trouble free.
@@krakenwoodfloorservicemcma5975 Cool. Thanks for replying.
I would have never thought this would be this technical. It's pretty amazing. You are a true concrete craftsman
Thank you for the compliment. I appreciate it.
Hands down...the amount of information you shared in real time was excellent!! Also, the side by side as you explained everything. This video is worth more then it's weight in gold. Thank You
Thank you so much for taking the time to pay the compliment. I really appreciate it.
Holy crap. The potential for mistakes on every step of this is staggering. I have a whole new respect for finished concrete floors now!
I've watched about a hundred vids on concrete floors and toppings. You sir have done the best at explaining the process. Thanks.
I was being to think folks were purposely leaving it out so the public wouldn't do it themselves.
Thank you. I really appreciate the feedback that it explained the process. It was the video’s primary purpose.
As a concrete polisher in Australia it’s cool to see how others from other parts of the world do it.
Nice work man!
@@nicholaswirth1011 thanks so much. Appreciate the compliment. The ones I’ve seen from your area really do look like solid craftsmanship at work. Thanks again-
Thanks for sharing this very informative video. I plan doing the whole floor of my new house with a concrete slab and wasn't sure which way to finish it. Polished concrete is now my preferred finish.
You’re welcome. Thank you for the positive comments. If you have any questions as you proceed to finish your new home’s floor, please don’t hesitate to contact me.
Thank you again.
Josh151@me.com
Professionally explained! Not a DIY job is what i get out of this 😊
Thank you for the kind comment. I appreciate it.
WOWOWOW! You are not the run-of-the-mill garage floor installer. I'm going to learn a lot by subscribing to your channel. Thanks for sharing
Thanks so much for the kind words. Happy to be of service sharing what I’ve learned so far. Thanks again and happy Monday.
I second Mr. Furley's accolade...! 5 min 32 sec of absolute knowledge, likely the best and most informative concrete flooring resurfacing video on YT. Anyone you know (trust) in Colorado that can do this type of quality work?
Wow! Thank you so much for the kind words. You made my day.
Colorado...definitely know a few good people out that way. If you wouldn’t mind sending me your city, I can send you a few contacts. Pls feel free to email me anytime- josh@substratetechnology.com
Thank you again.
Very informative and well-narrated, nice work.
Chris Norman thank you very much for the compliment. I appreciate it.
O
Thanks for sharing information,
Hats off from India 🇮🇳
Thank you so much.
Polished wins for me. Nicely done.
Thank you for your kind comment.
Josh this was a great video. Everything needed for both systems was nice to see. Plenty of years with epoxy but never had the chance to work on the polished floors. Lot's to learn so I'll look forward to seeing more of your expertise.
Thanks so much, Steve. I really appreciate the compliment. Polished concrete is similar to coatings in that the education never ends.😂
Thanks again, bud. I appreciate it.
Thanks man that’s really great video
Thank you for the compliment. I really appreciate it.
You are like a Phd of garage floor coatings...Impressive...;)
Wow! That is a huge compliment. Thank you very much for the kind words. I really appreciate it.
I must commend you on the presentation and information provided in this video! Just amazing work! ☮️🖖🏽
Thank you so much, Mr. Furley. I appreciate it.😊
First off, super informative video. There were a lot more steps, especially for a polished look, than I expected. In terms of the polished concrete process, if you were starting with a relatively new and defect free machine troweled smooth surface, where in your extensive process would you likely begin?
Thank you very much.
If the slab is done well, then I would start with a 100 or 200 grit copper pad. This would only expose the fine sand, but that’s the best way to avoid grouting, and preserve the dense matrix created by proper slab placement.
Thank you again for the compliment. I appreciate it.
Excellent presentation , high communicative skills . I´ve learned technics that I could never imagine that exist for terrazzo floor. Thank you and cheers from Helsinki , Finland. Here HTC and other Swedish companies monopolize floor preparation systems.
Thank you very much. Your words are very kind. I appreciate the positive feedback from a professional. Thank you again and best wishes for a prosperous new year.
Love to see the difference! Is there such thing and clear epoxy? I love the look of the polished with the raw concrete. But I feel epoxy is a more durable finish?
That’s a good point. Epoxy is a more chemically resilient surface (when topped with a urethane or Polyaspartic). Polished is better for abrasion resistance but has little to no chemical resistance. The choice of which is better relates directly to how the floor will be used. Thanks for the helpful input. It is appreciated.
@@joshjones8047 thank you for the reply! based on that im leaning towards polish. Chemical resilient is not a concern on my project
@@joshjones8047 Would Polished concrete do ok with something like pet urine? Thinking of doing this on the interior of my home but want to make sure the occasional dog accident won't be a problem. thank you in advance.
@@THANOS_Disciple that’s a good question. For people who own pets, it would be my choice to finish a slab with a high wear urethane. It’s abrasion resistant and also chemically resilient. There are different qualities and styles of these coatings. Whatever one is chosen, the technical data sheet should show test results of the coating’s ability to resist damage caused by common chemicals like urine.
I just got schooled. Awesome video. I need to watch this a few times to absorb all.
Certainly a different approach to a “polished” concrete. I’m thinking it as a hybrid because of the two skim coatings.
Thank you so much, Ross. I really appreciate the compliment.
Very informative video!
What should one look/ask for when wanting to hire a cement professional for a residential job?
Thanks so much. Probably start with a google search and then ask whoever is chosen for their references. Social media is loaded with contractors posting some really nice work. If the service provider is experienced, he or she will be happy to provide past clients as references.
Great video. At 1 min you say because the holes were large you decided to seal it with epoxy and marble powder. Is that correct? You mixed marble powder with the epoxy? Would silica sand done the same?
@@michaelpechbrenner614 Thank You.
The epoxy and marble powder are used because they polish well enough to blend with the concrete. Silica sand tends to stay dull despite the polishing. It would be durable but not reflective.
Thanks again-
Nice video. To the point and informative.
Thanks so much. I appreciate it.
This guy knows his stuff!
Thank you for the kind words.
I wish you had told us what are the appropriate venues for each floor system (pros and cons). Thanks.
This is a tough one to address since there are different conditions that will make one a better candidate over the other. Excluding the aesthetic differences, the primary difference between each is chemical resistance. A coating system can be formulated to resist a harsh acid. Polished concrete, by contrast, will etch from pro longed exposure to orange juice or ketchup.
As for abrasion, either can be damaged if they aren’t kept clean.
Dry storage and/or limited exposure to chemicals- either will work. Expected exposure to acidic chemicals- a coating is the best choice.
I hope this helps to clarify what was omitted.
Truest professional and I am impressed with this video and just subscribed. Thank you for a video that actually showing all aspects of this.
Great video!
Thank you so much for the kind words. I really appreciate it.
Love you’re video, very factual communicative professional thank you !
Thanks so much. I appreciate the compliment.
Very informative. Thank you for your time and effort.
You’re welcome. Thank you for the kind words.
This is a VERY interesting video. While I find the differences in the techniques of polishing vs epoxy covering fascinating, I would be even more interested in your takes on the reasons for selecting one over the other. In essence, I would like to hear your take on the pros and cons of polishing and sealing vs epoxy coating. I would like to have my 2 car garage floor either epoxied or polished. Thank you for the video, and in advance for any reply!!
Thank you.
Polished concrete is considered a high traction surface when clean. If it gets wet while dirty (dust or dirt is all it takes), it will be very slippery. Another drawback to use in a garage is exposure to oil or whatever else may fall off a vehicle. My choice for a garage would be a coating. It’s resilient and able to be made slip resistant, clean or dirty.
Polished concrete is perfect for dry areas. It’s a durable surface as long as it’s kept clean and not subject to chemical attack. If the area is expected to be spilled upon, a coating is the best choice.
@@joshjones8047Thanks. I have a bicycle shop with old concrete floors and previous owners tried carpet and linoleum which both failed. I've considered coating the concrete. Is there anything I should consider in an epoxy?
@@slackjaw4270 I think your choices are pretty open for an epoxy floor surface. There’s the option of opaque coatings such as a solid color, decorative quartz, or flake floor. The durability of each will be acceptable for that environment and traffic type. There’s also the option of what’s called a ‘grind and seal’. This is s durable system as well, provided the resin type is one that’s appropriate to the traffic. Coatings options for your shop are pretty open and more up to you for the aesthetic benefit a specific system will support.
@@joshjones8047 thanks and God bless!
I am a pro when it comes to cedar decks. Concrete , well, I'll probably just wheel pressure it , maybe add a simple sealer which will need to be repeated yearly
This sounds super laborious. I am curious how long the whole process normally takes (for an average garage, for example)?
That’s a good question.
Either process is pretty involved. A two-car (400SF) being polished takes a day if appropriate sized equipment is used. This assumes the floor does not require repairs or grout as was shown.
If a coating is being done, it’s a two day (faster reacting chemicals allow it to be done in a day) process if the floor requires no repairs.
To clarify about the demonstrated coating system, this one is more appropriate for an industrial application. A residential appropriate system is only two or three total coats.
Awesome video
Excellent video !! You present it so clear and concise easy to understand !! I was wondering which one would be considered a healthier floor to breathe & less toxic and which one would be stronger last longer ? Any recommendations for companies in the Temecula Ca area ? 👍👍
Thank you so much for the kind words. I appreciate it.
Either surface can be maintained using water and a microfiber. I like an epoxy for its resilience and ease of cleaning should oils or acidic compounds be dropped. Polished concrete is abrasion resistant. Epoxy systems are chemically resistant. It’s really more a matter of what the area use will be that should determine the flooring type.
About Temecula, I’ll ask at our office who we might know in that area.
Thank you again for the compliment.
@@joshjones8047 ❤️😄
Hey what a great job!! What equipment did you use ?
Thanks so much. The grinder/polisher is a Prep/Master: substratetechnology.com/product/prep-master-2807-floor-grinding-machine/
The shotblaster is an IMPACTS: substratetechnology.com/product/impacts-s210e-shot-blaster-8-inch/
Wow! Very informative. Can you please recommend a company in New York/5 Boros that can do this level of work?
Thank you very much. I would be happy to give you some local contractors that can provide floor coating or polishing. Please email me at prepmaster75@gmail.com and I’ll send you the contacts that way.
Thank you again.
At first I was like epoxy looks impossible to beat but the polished concrete looks amazing
Thank you for the positive input. Polished concrete does look good when done correctly. As far as longevity, it all depends on the environment.
Thank you again.
Wow great breakdown and explanation, the professionalism is evident.
Thank you so much, Walter. I appreciate it.
Thank you, this is a very informative video
Thank you for the positive comment. I appreciate it.
Thank you, very nice informative content. Liked very much the methodical and clean approach
Thank you very much for your kind comment. I appreciate it.
Awesome job - what uratyne brand is used on this polished concrete ? ..
Thank you. The urethane that’s used as a grout is called PCF45. Here is the spec sheet: www.smithpaints.com/?ae_global_templates=poly-pcf-45
Hi Josh,
Thanks for such great comparisons and explanations. Between both, which one is much higher costing inclusive labor cost please? Thanks
Thanks so much for the compliment.
The question is difficult to answer precisely because labor rates vary by region. I think it’s a safe generalization to make that polishing will be more expensive than the coating system shown because of the steps (labor) required to do it. Where the polish has a potential for being a better value is in its abrasion resistance and related maintenance costs. Still, the choice of polish or coating should be first made for its ability to withstand the expected traffic. Cost would be a factor in the decision but only after determining what system the floor needs.
Thanks again.
I wish I could have you and all that equipment polish my garage floors
Aww, thanks. I’d be happy to do it if I could.
Which do you like better for an automotive shop floor? I have a hobby shop where I maintain 10 cars. My 80x40 shop has a sealed floor, but it stains from all the oils over the years. It's a working shop, so it will take a lot of abuse. I like the ability of the epoxy to repel oils, but don't like it's propensity to chip and mar. The polished floors I've heard stain.... Where is your business located?
@@davidedwards3052 thanks for the request. For a shop and chemical repellency, I’d choose for a coating. Regular maintenance and correct cleaning chemicals will help to extend the coating’s appearance but they will eventually need to be replaced.
Our business is located in Morris IL.
great video but the cost is never mentioned. cost of polished vs epoxy.. i know it costs between 2-4k for most garages to epoxy with lifetime warranty but your company has not mentioned it even once.
Thanks for the input. The cost varies for either process based upon market and system. Also, this video is a few years old and prices have gone up.
Thanks again-
Is the polished concrete slippery? - I'm converting my garage to a rental unit. Demolition the old slanted concrete and after plumbing and radiant heat tubes installed - a new concrete pour. I really like the look and (non)maintenance of the polished floor - but I'm concerned about potential slips and accidents.
Thank you so much for your informative video. From your video, it looks like the polished concrete has a much nicer look-is that correct? Do you provide service in the Metrowest Boston area? Best to you.
Joshua Grant you’re welcome. Thank you for the kind words. The polished concrete appearance is certainly unique. A coated surface is more utilitarian to provide chemical resistance that a polished floor cannot.
For service, I represent a manufacturer but am happy to send your inquiry to a local service provide. Please feel free to email me at josh@substratetechnology.com and I’ll connect you with a company that can do the work.
Thank you again.
Great video as usual. How well does the epoxy perform on exterior slabs? eg.. UV resistance.
Thanks so much. To answer your question, epoxy doesn’t do well outdoors. Polyaspartic and urethane based products are more appropriate for exterior applications.
Nice video Josh! Great information
BECOSAN SYSTEMS thank you very much.
I've watched so many concrete prep videos in preparation for epoxying my floors, and no one has done anything even close to this. Terrifying to think how underworked my floor is, but I don't have access to one of these machine, much less the multiple (I imaging thousands of dollars worth of) diamond bits. Hope my floor doesn't peel up in a year.
Thank you very much
Simple and all basic information about the processes love this video... Epoxy vs polished, mechanic home shop... Work on diesel trucks etc... I'm worried about chipping, does the densifier help strengthen the concrete? Expoxy brand recommendation, also does gasoline effect either of them? Your recommendation for my scenario.
Thank you very much for the compliment.
With regard to the polished surface and its ability to resist chipping, it all depends on the force of dropped tools or metal parts. Densifier makes it more difficult to scratch the surface, but does not affect its ability to withstand impact.
An impact resistant coating can withstand dropped parts, but the system’s performance is largely based upon thickness and type. As the system becomes more thick, of course, the cost to install rises too.
For resistance to gasoline, a coating is the only way to prevent surface stains or absorption. Polished concrete will have little ability to hold back any chemical.
Thanks again for the positive response and the great questions.
@@joshjones8047 Josh, do you have any experience with penetrating sealers like Dayton Superior PentaGuard or Ameripolish SR 2? They say they are oleophobic but it also sounds like maybe eventually oil will get through (like if there is a car leaking oil little by little over a number of months.
@@jeffa847 thanks for the good question. I have used SR2. It’s a fantastic product. As you point out, though, it only buys time for the spill to be cleaned. If oil or other stain creating liquids are left to dwell, they will eventually get through the protective layer. Thanks again.
Hey Josh, Great work. My question is would a polished floor be too slippery for a commercial Laundromat business?.
Thank you for the compliment. A polished floor wouldn’t be slippery wet or dry when clean. If it’s anticipated that chemicals (soap) and water will regularly be on the floor, then a coating with an anti slip additive would be better. It wouldn’t have to be as involved a system as shown in the video. It could be a one or two coat aliphatic urethane system.
Please come do ours! They’re clean and ready to be densified! 🙏🏼
Haha! I’d love to have a respite behind a grinder and working your floor. If you do need a service provider, I’m happy to make a recommendation for your area. My email is prepmaster75@gmail.com. Feel free to contact me there and I’ll help if I can.
😂 Ok I’ll be emailing you then! Thanks!
Great overview. If you add links to actual filler products that you used, that would make the video even better.
Thank you very much, Marcin. Thanks, too, for the advice about enhancing the content. I’ve been doing flooring work for a few decades, but still very novice when it comes to RUclips. Thank you again.
Have you ever done an exposed aggregate floor and clear epoxy and added the grit clear sand? I love the look of the exposed aggregate but need some grip when garage floor gets wet, Thanks.
I have not done this personally, but that type of floor can be done quite easily. I would suggest you consult your epoxy supplier about clear coatings that are made to be slip resistant. Many industrial applications require a slip resistant clear coat for their floors, so your requirement should be easy to meet.
For creating your own system I would recommend that you follow a reputable supplier’s system. The concept of adding sand to a coating is quite easy, but some coatings will actually fail sooner because they do not have the ability to encapsulate an added material.
Thank you for the great question.
Super cool . This is what I want to get into
That’s a lot of information to take in , that’s why you pay top dollar for this kind of floors
Great video.
Thanks so much.
Hey Josh!
I'm constructing a multi floor building for Car service center. Right now I'm preparing for slab(still concrete has not been filled). Can you recommend best concrete flooring where oil/chemicals/grease can be cleaned easily and enough grip for cars to move. Thanks!
Thank you for the request. My advice is a coating that is chemically formulated to resist damage or staining from the chemicals you expect to be present. For abrasion resistance and grip, it’s also something to verify in the coating’s formulation and design.
If it were my floor, my choice would be an epoxy and urethane system (like in the video). While it’s not the hardest wearing surface, it’s one that can be any color of the rainbow, is easy to clean, has good surface traction, and will be plenty durable for low speed vehicle traffic.
As always, surface preparation is most important to any product performing to its full potential. Your choice of product and installer is also important so that the quality of placement and chemistry provides you a durable surface.
Nice work!! Great video! 👍🇮🇪
Thank you very much. I appreciate the kind words.
Hello Josh, enjoyed your video , a lot of good information you have shared. I want to do my basement flood. I am here in Ellenwood Ga. outside of ATL. Can you give please me a POC who can provide this service? I am thinking about doing it polish. Thanks!
Thank you very much, Calvin. I really appreciate the kind words. My email is prepmaster75@gmail.com. If you could email there, I will send you a few contacts in your area.
Who do you recommend to purchase concrete diamonds from? Do they also sell the hardness test kit?
This company supplies American and foreign made diamonds to fit many machines. They also sell the test kit.
buymanufacturersdirect.com/
cool terrazzo effect
Great video. Which would you recommend for the traffic and wear and tear of a laundromat?
Thank you, Lamaur. For a laundromat I would recommend a coated system. Basic chemicals such as bleach and detergent could easily damage a polished floor.
@@joshjones8047 so either polished concrere or epoxy would work? Thank you for responding.
@@lamaurprice7756 either can “work”. Polished concrete would be more apt to be etched by the chemicals whereas a coating would not. As far as traffic, mostly foot traffic I assume, this is not enough to wear either surface excessively.
@@joshjones8047 thank you.
Great video ,polished looks better.
Thank you very much, Arturo.
Thanks, Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much for the positive comment. I appreciate it.
Professional !
Thank you for the compliment.
Hi,Josh i have been in this business for awhile and I am impressed with the knowledge and your attention to detail. Do you have a program to enroll in to learn from you personally? Thanks amazing!!!
Thank you very much, Robert. I really appreciate your compliments.
About any kind of program, I regularly share what I’ve learned on social media and sporadically upload content to RUclips. If there is any topic you would like to see covered, I am always happy to receive suggestions. Please feel free to email me anytime. Josh151@me.com.
Thank you again for your kind words. You made my day.
very obvious when someone knows their trade. Nice job
Thank you so much, Denis.
Great video. I want to do polished concrete in my garage at home. If you were doing polished concrete in your own garage what grind level would you stop at? And if you were to use a clear sealant, would you choose polyurethane, polyaspartic or epoxy? Thanks in advance for the reply.
Thanks so much, Greg. A floor that’s been ground and sealed is a great look.
Polished concrete is one that has no topical sealer that can wear. This means it is still prone to staining by oil, road salt, etc. Your idea of a floor that looks like natural concrete, but is protected by a chemically resilient top coat, is a good one. My preference is to grind the floor to expose the sand and then topcoat with an aliphatic urethane. There is the matter of best surface preparation practices to remove all dust prior to coating, but an aliphatic urethane is the most user friendly coating there is to apply. It’s a durable commercial grade product that can be incorporated with anti-slip additives (recommended for a garage). Your local SW store can offer suggestions about their aliphatic urethane or you can feel free to email me for more specific instructions.
I will plan to shoot a video detailing this same process. I’ll shoot it and post it for you.
Thank you again.
Here is a video that shows a grind and seal: ruclips.net/video/qjeuIVof1EM/видео.html
This felt like a 400 page book lol…so which is more durable and which do you prefer overall?
Haha! Thanks I think.😄
It’s not an easy question to answer. I look at it like this, polished concrete is abrasion resistant, requires only regular washing and/or dust mopping, and is moisture tolerant. Coatings provide chemical resistance that polished concrete cannot and offer a more diverse range of color choices. They can be made slip proof too.
To me it’s all about the environment which floor choice is the most appropriate. I hope this was helpful, but I’m also happy to discuss further as needed. Thank you again.
@joshJones My husband is been very resistant about this flooring because of ECHO. We had a small party in our basement for my daughter and it was so Loud with echo with the plain concrete floor that he doesn't think we can keep a concrete floor. How can we make that work? I like the look and I really do not want carpet down there. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
What you mean by eboxy& marble flour to fill the gab in concrete should be mixe epoxy withe marbel four and apply to the concrete. Please let me know
That’s a good question. The epoxy is applied first to fill the surface pores. The marble powder is applied second and pressed into the wet epoxy. This sequence fills the fine pores with wet epoxy. The pushing of flour into wet epoxy combines the two.
very informative. thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the kind words.
Hey !!
Can we do concrete finish in a factory warehouse , where 4 mm epoxy flooring or PU concrete flooring are done ??
If the epoxy and PU are removed and expose a good concrete slab, it is possible to polish this. A mock-up would need to be performed, but it’s theoretically possible to do this. It all depends upon the concrete quality.
Thanks for the great videos! I’ve been out of the polishing side of things for awhile now and have never grouted a floor. Do you have a recommendation on an epoxy or urethane grout product? Also, how concerned with floor moister do i have to be when applying a solvent product over a floor that was just ground with water. Thanks again for the very informative videos!!
Thanks so much for the compliment, Ryan.
If I’m filling larger pin holes, then I’d use a 100% solids epoxy and marble flour. The two I’ve used that polish well and don’t leave shadows are GP3520 and Smith Paints U100. If the holes are smaller, more like excessive porosity, then I’ll use Smith Paints PCF45.
As far as the moisture from wet cutting and cleaning, it would need to be given enough time to dry or be force dried.
Thanks again for the kind words. They are appreciated.
Does polishing make the floor slippery?
That’s a good question. Testing of polished concrete has proven it can pass OSHA and ADA coefficient of friction minimums. This is true when wet or dry as long as it’s clean. The short answer is no, it’s not any more slippery than waxed tile. Because it’s so smooth, though, a dirty and wet floor will be a hazard.
Thank you for the video!
I have a quick question i was hoping you may help.
We are currently dealing with a bit of a botch applying a Poly top coat over our clear sealer coat.
We tried to stretch out our Poly Top Coat too thin resulting in squeegee marks/roller marks.
There are also some blotches of Poly in certain areas of the floor that started to harden before we were able to spread it.
What would be your best recommendation for fixing these issues? I assumed we would sand out the areas where we have roller/squeegee marks to the best of our ability and then reply a Top coat.
Can you help us solve this nightmare?
Happy to help. It seems to me the first thing to do would be to sand down the areas where the dried poly has created elevation inequalities. Once that’s done, the only way to not see the treatment there would be to overcoat the whole floor with another poly top coat. This probably means sanding the rest of the floor to prepare for the new overcoat, but I can’t see another way to hide the area that needed help to be smoothed. Hopefully this helps.
So which is better for a garage floor where cars will go in and out and some welding and so on?
Epoxy, epoxy with flake, or polished concrete??
That’s a great question. My preference is a resilient coating because it’s chemical/stain resistant. It can also be made slip resistant with a topcoat additive. For the welding, a protective shield would be needed for either surface. Potential exposure to that amount of heat will damage a coating or polished concrete.
@@joshjones8047 what would that be?
@@seanfaulk8641 it all depends on the look that’s preferred. A flake floor and solid color epoxy will both perform the same way. The only thing that’s different is the appearance. Flakes are popular because they offer a little more interest than a basic one color floor. Still, the topcoat that protects either type is a system’s workhorse. This is usually a urethane, but that all depends on the installer’s preference.
@@joshjones8047 thanks
Price wise, which one is more expensive per square footage?
Great question. Polished concrete is usually more expensive because it involves more labor. In countries where labor is cheaper, coatings are more expensive.
What is the relative cost difference between epoxy and polished floors?
That’s a good question. Polished concrete usually starts at $4/SF, but that’s more along the lines of commercial spaces exceeding 10,000SF. To coat a floor with a single component, clear, aliphatic urethane, it’s maybe around $3/SF. These numbers will be very different based upon local labor rates.
In terms of performance and environment, polished concrete is a poor choice where chemical exposure (including oils) is expected. Coated concrete is a poor choice where abrasive surface traffic is expected.
I am using Densifier on a new pour where it has been mechanical troweled . I just wanted it hard for a hobby auto shop . Lithium densifier any options .
That’s a good question. Densifier will help as long as the surface is not covered by any membrane forming sealer. As far as benefit from the treatment, it will help to make the bonds between hard aggregates more complete. If it’s well consolidated as a product of good placement, the only other concern would be stain resistance. There are penetrating sealers that can help to limit staining.
As far as polishing, there is always the option to do that in areas where more reflectivity is needed/wanted.
Hi Josh, great informative video! Would you be able to tell us what the urethane grout that you used was?
Thank you so much, Bob. The urethane grout is called PCF45 by Smith Paints.
Its information can be found here:
www.smithpaints.com/?ae_global_templates=poly-pcf-45
@@joshjones8047 Thanks Josh. Again, great informative video. You touched on some elements and descriptions that the other videos left out. Keep up the great work!
@@bobberns953 thanks again, Bob.
I sanded some wooden floors recently and it was horrible and boring to do, I can't imagine doing any of those type of sanding /grinding jobs for a living, it'd be hideous. Polished concrete looks good tho.
Thank you for doing this video. I have a 40yr old house and the basement concrete floor was colored enhanced applied when built. I thought an epoxy was the way I would be going until I contacted a flooring company and they recommended polished concrete would do better inside the basement of a house. Sighting it would hold up better.
I like the cinnamon color of my concrete but would like to see it slightly lighter if possible. Even a gray concrete color would be desirable. Is polished concrete advisable on an existing color enhanced concrete floor?
Thank you for the request. It’s hard to say if your floor will polish to your satisfaction. The only way to know how it will look is to do a mock-up. Of course this means time and expense to do the work, but it’s all that can be done to provide a representative sample. As far as the color or overall shading, it’s been my experience that a polish will make a floor darker as it is refined. For the environment, there’s not much there that can damage a polish. It’s breathable and abrasion resistant. It’s only weakness is damage that can be caused by chemical attack. Orange juice, ketchup, soda (a few examples) can all etch the reactive surface. Some extra protection can be applied to minimize damage caused by incidental exposure to acidic compounds , but regular exposure can cause surface damage.
Thanks again for the comment and request.
This is why most homeowners can't do it themselves, you have to spend 20k on equipment & all the different diamond grits.. I'm just going to buy the cheap diamond infused scrubbing pads & rent a 17" machine from home depot for my basement laundry room. It definitely won't look as good as this but I'm not to picky & it should be pretty Shiny after a coat of sealer & 3 coats of wax
Good point. Wax is easy to touch up and plenty appropriate for the area. Thanks for the positive comment.
Excellent skill
Thank you so much. I appreciate it.
Josh
A very informative video and educated me a lot. I am looking to do my Garage floor and came across this video. I have sent you an email with some of the questions I had. I am posting here as well. I saw in a forum post shared by one of the Car Garage shop owner and he recommends polished concrete along with dye (if need for color) and sealing vs using epoxy. Is that a better alternative than epoxy?
For epoxy, what top coat is the most durable and prevents yellowing over time? - Polyurethane or Polyaspartic?
Thanks again for the great video!
Thank you very much for the kind words.
If a floor is going to be colored and sealed, we call that a stain and seal. I prefer to use stain (mineral pigment) rather than dye because stain will not fade from sunlight, it is permanent its color.
For the top coat, I would recommend either a polyaspartic or polyurethane. Epoxy will scratch too easily, but polyaspartic and polyurethane were made to bear traffic.
Thank you again.
Good stuff Josh Jones. Would love to meet you someday. As we have crossed paths on fb
Thanks so much, Kris. Likewise. My schedule is to be in Akron in June. I might be able to make a detour to see you on my way home.
What if you have fiber in your concrete?
That’s a great question. Polished concrete containing fibers might be a little less clear in shine, but it can still look quite good. As far as coating a fiber reinforced slab, it’s a bit more tricky. The fibers can be torched, but the remaining ones will absorb the first resin coat and stick up. I’ve been told that they can be sanded after the first coat, and then should not be a problem again.
omg! a lot of information
Thought you were mad to start with, then realised you were talking in milli-inches. When you first said 7 mill I thought you were using the international standard millimetre, I thought he's crazy 7mm of any resin coating will be super expensive. Then remembered you talkin in milli-inches in North America.
That's a good catch. 7 mil is about 180 microns, or roughly 0.2 mm.
what diamond disk numbers do i need to polish my terrazo theres so many numbers, can i do it with only 3 steps??
This is a good question. The beginning step and ending step depends upon the terrazzo’s current conditions and any sealer that may be present.
Terrazzo floors are traditionally honed to a 100 or 200 and sealed. In the case of polishing, some can be specified to have a polish to 3,000 grit.
Common Diamond progression can be: copper 50, 100, 200, resin 400, 800, 1800, 3000. There could be seven steps possible or maybe only two or three. It depends upon current condition and final surface requirements.
Is this finish slippery or safe as far as disabled people falling on it?
That’s a good question. Polished concrete has been tested using a dynamic slip meter to verify it can meet OSHA and NFSI standards. With this said, it’s my understanding that actual testing of a polished floor is only able to be certified when tested at each location it’s installed. So, yes, it meets the standards. Each location where installed, though, would have to be tested to protect the property owner if litigation were to occur.
Informative video Josh thank you. I am about to build a 50 x 50 4 bay garage Man Cave. On new concrete that will have moderate traffic and a wash bay what would you suggest? I really like medium gloss finish and want it to last and be durable. Just found your channel.
Thank you very much.
It’s hard to say what your best choice will be. Polished concrete is a great floor for durability. Our polished shop floor sees decent traffic and is holding well. When oil or anything acidic is spilled, it does get stained or damaged, but that’s not a regular occurrence.
If you like the look of polished concrete, then the only concern will be its nature of being damaged by any acid that’s left long enough to etch it. Your traffic shouldn’t cause any issues as long as you keep up with regular sweeping/dry mopping/auto scrubbing.
A coating is nice (maybe a good idea in the wash bay) because it resists all chemical attack, and regular foot traffic will probably leave it looking good for at least five years. Just like the polished concrete, your regular maintenance of the surface will limit abrasion damage by dust and dirt being left on the surface.
You have lots of options that might best be narrowed by budget and the look you would like.
Thanks Josh! A big help coming from a professional.
@@DH-fo9dx you’re welcome. Thank you for the kind words.
Which is better for dog kennel or ether then cheaper?
My advice for that environment would be a coating system. The chemical attack from the dogs and subsequent cleaning would quickly degrade a polished surface. Polishing might be cheaper than a high performance coating, but that savings would be quickly lost as the polish is eaten away.
You might check the web for case studies that mimic the space you have. I know of a few contractors who do kennels regularly and they install a coating system. It’s the best way in my opinion.
@@joshjones8047 thanks
Good video, but I was a bit confused: you are using an Epoxy coating on BOTH samples ... not just "polished." (Yes, I understand "epoxy coating on polished floors.")
Still, the issue is always "using dissimilar materials." For example, all those beautiful wood tables with poured epoxy (or polyester) resin inlay designs? Wood expands and contracts and eventually those beautiful designs will come lose. It's always a gamble when you "mix" your mediums. Even fiberglass will eventually de-laminate if not properly maintained. At that point there is no reasonable "fix."
Thank you for the compliment. You are right about dissimilar materials and the way that each will age. For epoxy grout in polished concrete, it’s longevity will depend largely upon the maintenance of the surface. If dust and sand are not regularly removed, it will start to wear the surface in an irregular way. Maintenance is very important to keep the polished look.
Thank you again.
@@joshjones8047 Thanks Josh. You have done a great job of showing other RUclipsrs how to get straight to the point and produce worthy content.
@@ElectrologyNow you are very kind. Thank You.
For a bus stations waiting room (foot traffic), which one would be better in terms for durability? Epoxy/polished concrete? Which one is more slip resistant when wet?
Thank you for the question. I think a polish would be very durable, but slip resistance will rely upon the floor being kept clean. A polished floor is a high traction surface wet or dry, but if dirty will be slippery.
A coating would be fine for durability as well, but this also must be kept clean.
The biggest mistake with floor choices is still remembering that no floor can be attractive and safe if it is not clean.
Thank you again for the request. Please revert if you need further advice.