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@@AnyHouseCleaning thanks so much!

@@alexandremorin11 thanks so much. It’s hard to say if pressure washing will do the trick. The aim is to remove all bond inhibiting contaminants as well as expose structurally sound concrete. Once dry, the coating needs to absorb fully into the concrete matrix to fully attach. Simply being clean of the dirt might only expose concrete that’s still holding contaminants or itself be structurally weak. Pressure washing will help but still might not provide the mechanical anchor needed. Thank you again-

@@joshjones8047 I understand! Again, great video!

@ Thank You

@@AnyHouseCleaning thanks so much. The vac I use is called 3003AR. It’s a three motor, self cleaning 110V machine. buymanufacturersdirect.com/shop/manufacturers/coynco/s-3m-bag-dust-collector/

@@YangoJackson that’s a good question. For the smaller jobs it’s my preference to do it by hand. It would be impractical on bigger projects. As long as the squeegee is moved at a slow pace over a floor, to allow the coating to seep into the small voids between flakes, this way or standing should provide the same result.

It’s called a Spin-1 pad. It’s a DIP normally used for smoothing guard. This one was a 10,000 grit. substratetechnology.com/product/spin-1-concrete-polishing-pads/

@@rickstrole9634 Thank You. Sherwin Williams offers a masonry stain that’s really easy to use and last quite well in heat and exposure to full sun. I’ll drop a link to its use next. Here’s a product link:www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/hc-colortop-waterbased-solid-color-concrete-stain

@@rickstrole9634 ruclips.net/video/eNdGWRxAsIE/видео.htmlsi=DQCsJmAo4_25pyEv

Thanks

@@nathanjimbob7885 thanks so much. Really appreciate your compliment. It would be a cool floor to do if someone had the budget for this look. Thanks again-

@@James-ev6rk the shotblaster is made by IMPACTS GmbH. This model is the S210 Streamer. It’s available through dealers or can be found online here: buymanufacturersdirect.com/shop/equipment/shot-blasters/impacts-s210e-shot-blaster-8-inch/

Excellent job

@ Thank You

@@Iammikelovin thanks so much. Glad to hear the videos help you. You can find the machine details here. They sell throughout North and South America: buymanufacturersdirect.com/shop/equipment/shot-blasters/impacts-s210e-shot-blaster-8-inch/

@@morristhe3rd water. The aim was to extract all the grinding dust. Then it was left to dry for four hours before coating.

@@joshjones8047 nice man keep killing it

@@samburk45 your best bet would be your local Sherwin Williams store. Ask for their local General Polymers rep since this is a commercial flooring product. If you have any difficulty, please let me know your city and state and I’ll try to find your area’s rep.

This brand is Smith Paints. The products used are FW38 (water based epoxy primer), MPP3 (100% solids epoxy flake layer) and Poly2000 (Polyaspartic top coat). They offer their products online here: buymanufacturersdirect.com/manufacturers/smith-paint-products/

@@johnkim1656 the best way I’ve found is slow and enough water to keep the heat down. Not fully wet like wet grinding but damp enough the adhesive clumps rather than gets sticky. Usually the waste can be swept into piles and shoveled into bags. This particular floor’s mastic was dry and the concrete below it was soft.

@@johnkim1656 hopefully this helps. Not being well versed on three head planetary models my opinion will likely fall short. Maybe checkout SASE and Husqvarna because they are well used industry brands. As far as a closet and this model, the handle will go vertical and reduce its overall length. This will help but most closets I’ve done still need hand work.

@@joshjones8047have you ever tried using a 110V walk behind grinder on mastic?

@@johnkim1656 buymanufacturersdirect.com/shop/manufacturers/substrate-technology-inc/tooling-substrate-technology-inc/eg-carbide-cutters-for-adhesive-removal/

@@johnkim1656 that’s a great question. Yes. If I can get away with only wetted sand to aid the grinding, I prefer this to the additional process of scraping. The one thing I watch for is how badly the concrete gets gouged. If sticky mastic causes the concrete to be unduly removed, this is where I’d switch to the carbides. Then I’d follow this with grinding and wetted sand as necessary.

@@davidfitzgerald3653 uh huh

@@johnkim1656 yes. It’s a 5.5kw motor that needs at least 6Kw to run. The generator used is a 7Kw. It’s only enough to run the grinder. The 110V vac was plugged into building power. Power draw is 208/220V-30A-single phase.

@@DaxKissoon yes. A sanding screen would work too. Diamond are convenient because they last much longer, but certainly can be too aggressive and/or create heat. The whole point was to cut down any surface defects for the top coat to be as uniform as possible.

Thanks for the reply, are you worried about the topcoat epoxy yellowing on you?

@ that’s a good point. It’s always possible for an epoxy to amber. Some do this more than others. It’s my feeling that a product with a UV Absorber would limit the effect. Still it’s a valid concern. One thing to note is a floor that’s pure white or light in color will show this change more than a beige or tan floor. Some amber more than others so product choice would be key to making the right choice.

@@carloscortes4312 thank you so much. Appreciate the compliment. Happy to share what I’ve been taught so far. Thank You.

@@morristhe3rd Thank You. A buddy in South Carolina taught me to offer this. Some prefer the look outside to match better their exterior masonry. The product used here is a Polyaspartic because it’s UV resistant and it was only 50 degrees when I installed it. Smith Paints is the manufacturer of this product: buymanufacturersdirect.com/shop/chemicals/coatings-sealers/smiths-polyaspartic-floor-coatings-1000-2000-series/

@@morristhe3rd thanks so much. Really appreciate the kind words. We aren’t on instagram but there are some company pages on FB: facebook.com/share/1CxxvBhQNG/?mibextid=LQQJ4d facebook.com/share/15DT3c4VRr/?mibextid=LQQJ4d

@@LiveWireElectricalServiceLLC. that’s a good question. If this was commercial environment, I’d probably suggest a high wear urethane. Being a residential application, the concern is more for maintaining decent slip resistance.

@@iMdb8Official that’s a good question. Resinous products like this one are all subject to humidity and temperature. Bubbling should not occur but this will depend upon the speed it can be applied and its thickness. The higher the temp, the faster it must be placed. To directly answer the question about 35C, I’d likely have to apply multiple thin coats to get the same build or choose a different formula.

@@VicSFbear if we charged for the work, I would tell you. It’s my guess most wouldn’t do it for less than $2K. That’s probably low since the market for property upgrades is quite busy these days.

@@shanedurand783 it helps to keep the diamonds sharp on concrete that’s extra hard. Usually they glaze when the slab is extra dense.

@@brentyancich thanks so much.

@@itsparonic3585 thanks for the request. Would be happy to help but I haven’t come up with a good way to treat corners. There’s the option of needle scaling or an oscillating corner sander. Neither are fast but both would work to clean a corner. Thanks again.

@@Jeff-k6n thanks. These guys are pros. Here’s a link to their channel. You might inquire their product choice there. It’s made by RapidSet but I’m not sure which product they use. ruclips.net/video/ydaIsGQTbVg/видео.htmlsi=i4mWsLsFPa7MdiGg

@@Jeff-k6n he answered that it’s RapidSet CR - concrete resurfacer

@@i1uvpreppyxo887 Thank You. It takes the time and equipment to get it done right. As far as the cost, I guess this can be justified by the owner as an investment. All the more reason to make sure it’s done right and lasts. Thanks again.

@@MTLegends_Pod it is possible and quite popular. WaltTool makes a product that mimics polished concrete. There are other brands that offer mixes including larger aggregate. www.walttools.com/product/slp-self-level-polish-overlay-mix/

@@MTLegends_Pod thanks so much. Hope it’s helpful.

This is called the MarkIII. It can be purchased here: buymanufacturersdirect.com/shop/equipment/construction-equipment/us-saws-mark-iii-dust-buggy-joint-cleanout/

@@theturningpointministries-1768 the primer coat is a water based epoxy called FW38 by Smith Paints. Here is a link to the product: www.smithpaints.com/?ae_global_templates=fw38-water-based-epoxy-primer

@@gaelcruz6078 my latest preference has been the EZ Squeegee 8-12 mil gauge. The aim is to apply +/-10 mils of base coat. This squeegee does well to help achieve this thickness.

@@jacobnorman4800 that’s a good question. It’s been my experience that bush-hammers are still just as limited by concrete strength as grinding or blasting. If the slab is dense and smooth, it will profile slower than if it were soft. The best way I’ve found to approach a dense slab is to plan 50% more time to prep it. This is a rough increase that’s not precise at all. My thinking is a hard slab will likely take half-again as long as one that’s medium to soft. Usually it’s not slower than this.

Does this process skim, then body aid with pin holes reducing the risk of bubbles in the top coat?

@@iMdb8Official Thank You. The wet-on-wet process should not affect the layer on the bottom if it’s the same product. One caveat to this could be if the skim coat was also being used as a coat to fill surface damage like nail pops or spalls. As an example, deeper damage being filled by the first epoxy layer, then disrupting that by the second layer, could cause a later surface deflection. In this instance the floor was skimmed only to fill the micro porosity and small voids.

@@iMdb8Official while I have yet to find any process that guarantees all bubbles will be prevented with one skim coat, this method will reduce their likelihood or at least the prevalence of bubbles.

@@sheriffgafar over this slab, yes. It’s a very porous concrete because of entrapped air and the sand aggregate type. Not all are like this but it can be a common occurrence.

@@joshjones8047 ♥️ thanks Josh, what would be best option in that case , water base epoxy or maybe add more xylene to the primer?

@@sheriffgafar either choice will help but some slabs simply can’t be filled with one coat. This makes it difficult for the installer to predict, but some close inspection will help to accurately estimate labor and material.

@@nicholaswirth1011 thanks so much. Appreciate the compliment. The ones I’ve seen from your area really do look like solid craftsmanship at work. Thanks again-

@@CameronJames13 the final treatment over the flake floor is Polyaspartic. Sometimes it’s done with two coats. My preference is one coat at 16 mils(100SF/gallon) volume.

@@jamieclarke6623 yes. The urethane style of grout is for the surface porosity. Holes larger than a pencil lead are better treated with epoxy and marble dust. For the smaller holes (pin sized), the urethane used here does well enough to fill them.

Ok thanks for your help 👍🏻

@@joshjones8047do you have any recommendations of what grout product to use?

Do you have a name for grout product?

@@jamieclarke6623 yes. It’s called PCF45 made by Smith Paints: www.smithpaints.com/?ae_global_templates=poly-pcf-45

@@spiritualdispensary8214 sure. The benefit to using a thickened epoxy for this purpose is the mixture holding its form until it hardens. Regular 100% solids and sand tends to sag. Still, your idea will probably work. If you have time, I would recommend you do a small test to verify the mixture and the performance.

@@hhattingh Thank You