Cameron, I've been watching your videos for years. In that time, I've flown everything from a R22 through a S61. I feel immensely sated in my hands-on career, but I love the science behind helicopters, how the rotors act in flight and how they're created. Thank you for continuing to push content that big companies hide, so we get to see how it's all made from the ground up.
Your work and vids motivate me Thanks for taking the risks and sharing your experiences particularly in seeing the progression on the rotors and learnings
Hi John, I'm going to cut this one up and see how the wetting out process has gone. Also, I have a 100T pulling ram that I'm going to stretch the shit out of it. I think my Mitsi' van may come in handy for a static load test as well.
Yeah, some shops don't like to stock it because of it's shelf life and most people prefer faster curing times. I'm not sure of the pot like, but it stays "sticky" for around three hours if it's not too warm.
The mold is just folded metal trays hinged at the leading edge, filled with concrete and a layer of epoxy grout. there is a pipe running through each to heat with water. I haven't done anything lately, too easily distracted. I need to work on a simpler method for setting up the root end. Cheers.
@@CameronCarter1 Thank you for getting back to me. Is there a way you can contact me as I have a few ideas that might help make it stronger and easier?
@@CameronCarter1 so is it success to your gyroscopeter ? Any issues from it? You are using fiberglass clothing but instruction tell us to use fiberglass unidirectional mat .... Please guide me to make like this....
Yes. it depends on how much spare time you have. I have just destroyed the mold again trying to remove trial blade #4. I think I've almost perfected the process, but all up including the tooling and testing the rotors are not going to be cheap. Each blade takes about 5 hours labor (not including extruding the lead balance weight) and about NZ$300 in materials. It's one of those challenges that make me more determined on every failure. :-)
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, I benefited from your great videos,
Ali from Saudi Arabia
Cameron, I've been watching your videos for years. In that time, I've flown everything from a R22 through a S61. I feel immensely sated in my hands-on career, but I love the science behind helicopters, how the rotors act in flight and how they're created. Thank you for continuing to push content that big companies hide, so we get to see how it's all made from the ground up.
Cheers. I think the "Big companies" would be horrified. :-)
That Blade looks great looking forward to what next very nice and thanks for sharing it
Your work and vids motivate me Thanks for taking the risks and sharing your experiences particularly in seeing the progression on the rotors and learnings
Very clever method.
Looks like you've got the construction process sorted.
What sort of testing will you be doing? Looking good mate.👍
Hi John, I'm going to cut this one up and see how the wetting out process has gone. Also, I have a 100T pulling ram that I'm going to stretch the shit out of it. I think my Mitsi' van may come in handy for a static load test as well.
cool....did not know you can get 209 hardener, whats its pot life....
Yeah, some shops don't like to stock it because of it's shelf life and most people prefer faster curing times. I'm not sure of the pot like, but it stays "sticky" for around three hours if it's not too warm.
Hi! Can you please tell me what kind of material you used to build your rotor blade? Nice setup you have to build your rotor blade. BTW nice video.
E Glass and epoxy resin. Still working on the setup and procedure.
Very well
Hello, what is your country, where will these auto-giro or helicopter parts be used?
New Zealand. I was trying to develop a system to easily make composite rotors. But nothing like that is easy. I may revisit one day. Cheers.
Do you have a video of how you built the mold and an update on your latest blade?
The mold is just folded metal trays hinged at the leading edge, filled with concrete and a layer of epoxy grout. there is a pipe running through each to heat with water. I haven't done anything lately, too easily distracted. I need to work on a simpler method for setting up the root end. Cheers.
@@CameronCarter1 Thank you for getting back to me. Is there a way you can contact me as I have a few ideas that might help make it stronger and easier?
cacwelding4@gmail.com. Any constructive input would be much appreciated. Cheers Cam.
Hi Cameron any way of contacting you re winding video thanks
cacwelding4@gmail.com
hi!
blade weight, kg/m?
how many roving threads in this spar (lonjeron) ?
e glass 2400tex?
Blade weight, lbs/feet in length?
Hi mate where in New Zealand are you
I'm not sure I should mention that on youtube :-)
cacwelding4@gmail.com
Is this a special type of mold? On a hinge?
Yeah, It's a clam shell, hinged at the leading edge. It creates more problems than it solves, but I'll get there :-)
@@CameronCarter1 so is it success to your gyroscopeter ?
Any issues from it?
You are using fiberglass clothing but instruction tell us to use fiberglass unidirectional mat ....
Please guide me to make like this....
Fast fwd 1yr later can you make custom blades...am building a home built as per videos on my channel and need blades
Keep getting side tracked, will be re-visiting it soon.
Sản phẩm được gia công bằng vật liệu gì
Glass epoxy.
No disrespect but is it cheaper to buy ready made blades?
Yes. it depends on how much spare time you have. I have just destroyed the mold again trying to remove trial blade #4. I think I've almost perfected the process, but all up including the tooling and testing the rotors are not going to be cheap. Each blade takes about 5 hours labor (not including extruding the lead balance weight) and about NZ$300 in materials. It's one of those challenges that make me more determined on every failure. :-)
@@CameronCarter1 is it successfully.....can i also try this at home
Does not look like wood 😞
Glass Epoxy