you prolly dont care but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can watch pretty much all the new series on instaflixxer. Been streaming with my brother for the last couple of weeks :)
Good comparison for the most part. While I understand why you did it, I do not like the comparison of the print quality with stock "profiles" which aren't even remotely appropriate for the printer. Are the profiles configured for bowden setup or direct drive? What I would have preferred seeing is you take the settings that were either included with the printer, on their website or to use the included test gcode as a base for a profile. You're not successfully comparing print quality using a default profile in S3D or Cura. I'm sure both printers turn out significantly better quality when using settings appropriate for the printer. What I want to know is why manufacturers don't turn out high quality profiles for their printers for each slicer. Having a profile tailored to the printer is crucial for success, especially for someone new to printing.
Great vid - I would like to see comparison pics side by side would be my only wish - my memory is not good any more :>) I like the speed you talk - gives me time to absorb. Your final conclusion/pick was nice - some reviewers say "you be the judge" but not really willing to commit their personal choice. Cheers, Patrick
I am confused between GJaurora or Ender 5, can you please advise me? I will highly appreciate it. I need it for architectural modeling purposes. Thank you so much.
Although I agree with your findings, you say that you like the power resume function of the A5 more then how the CR-10 does it. Now my own findings are completely the other way around, as I think the power fail function on the A5 is completely useless, unless you do something with the A5 that you should not do, and that is using glue to stick your part to the bed. When the A5 has a power fail, it (normally) will only resume after the machinist returns to the printer and restarts it again. Under normal conditions, this is only after minutes to hours... Now the bed has been cooling down and the print is not attached to the bed anymore. Restarting the printer and resuming the print is not possible under real life situations. Only when you test this with unplugging the printer and immediately resuming the print, the bed has not cooled down completely and the print is still on the bed... This is no real life situation. As the CR-10 doesn't have the diamond bed but uses normal glass, you also don't have this problem.
You are perfectly correct. I was using the anycubic version of diamond bed on the CR10 and diamond on the A5. In both cases I knew that adhesion would fail on power fail. I used glue stick on the CR10 and Kapton tape with glue stick on the A5. As you saw, the CR10 adhesion failed, causing the layer shift. The A5 did not.
When my A5 had power failure, I didn't have issue with the bed cooling down, but the hot end crashed into model and caused number of other issues. I can't rely on Adhesion of the "Diamond" bed = too many mishaps when model became loose in he middle of the printing. Also I had same with the filament sensor on A5 like you on CR10 => Resolution simply unplug the cable from the LCD board. I still think it is a good printer and I was looking to buy second one BUT QC is not there and I will buy PRUSA Original M3 or even M2 or both. Life is too short to be Beta-Tester
You're calling the A5 the 5s I know there's a decided difference between the CR-10 and the CR-10s in features although you can buy both versions. What I'm asking is are there two distinct models of the A5? I've only seen the one. Have they changed the version of Marlin it's shipping with? Other reviewers have said it came with an old dead tree version lacking many features. It's so hard to choose an expensive 3D printer (and yes, on a fixed income $500, plus a table, power strip, new tools, lighting, etc is a lot of money) you have to go on reviews (there's no where locally I can lay hands on them) one reviewer has mice nesting in his A5 it's been sitting dead for so long. Another reviewer, Joel Telling, says the CR10 is better than sliced bread. My head is going to explode.
I like your vids but i would like to see less talking and more printing and more focus on samples and on the printers. I hardly see the printers you review? That is kinda weird for a review / shootout. But that is just my preference, keep it up, just trying to be constructive no bashing.
Buy JGaurora A5s Gearbest: goo.gl/u5zJpn Code: JGAURORAA5 LATEST CODE TO TRY $499.99 with coupon:CR10SEUCO CR-10 US Coffee bit.ly/2lo9u8Z Code: BoxingdayCoffee10S or GBCR10S Creality CR-10s US PLUG bit.ly/2hw28ij Code: TheHotEndCR10S or 1111GBCR10S or GBCR10S Creality CR-10s EU PLUG: goo.gl/QSQiVp Code: TheHotEndCR10S or 1111GBCR10S or GBCR10S Creality CR-10 (original) US PLUG CODE: 11CR10US goo.gl/Ff86kx Creality CR-10 (original) EU PLUG CODE: 11CR10EU goo.gl/Erhc9w
![Chino Pacas - Smith (ft. Junior H & Fuerza Regida) [Video Visualizador Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BVK6k56X30Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Watchable at 1.5 playback speed
Why? are you in a hurry?
he must be used to doing everything fast lol
No cops. No stops.
even at 2 playback speed
The Hot End - 3D Printing & Technology Pretty sure his girlfriend wishes he wasn't so fast at things :)
I just ordered the jg 5s this is my 1st printer hope I get a great one. Great video thank you
you prolly dont care but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can watch pretty much all the new series on instaflixxer. Been streaming with my brother for the last couple of weeks :)
@Kason Hendrix Yup, I have been using Instaflixxer for months myself :)
Good comparison for the most part. While I understand why you did it, I do not like the comparison of the print quality with stock "profiles" which aren't even remotely appropriate for the printer. Are the profiles configured for bowden setup or direct drive? What I would have preferred seeing is you take the settings that were either included with the printer, on their website or to use the included test gcode as a base for a profile. You're not successfully comparing print quality using a default profile in S3D or Cura. I'm sure both printers turn out significantly better quality when using settings appropriate for the printer. What I want to know is why manufacturers don't turn out high quality profiles for their printers for each slicer. Having a profile tailored to the printer is crucial for success, especially for someone new to printing.
Great vid - I would like to see comparison pics side by side would be my only wish - my memory is not good any more :>)
I like the speed you talk - gives me time to absorb.
Your final conclusion/pick was nice - some reviewers say "you be the judge" but not really willing to commit their personal choice.
Cheers, Patrick
Heyyy there!!! I absolutely adore your channel 😊
Very nice videos. I am following your channel and watching all videos.
I am from Brazil and planning to buy my first 3d printer that should be a5.
Hi John, great video! Can you post a link to the y-axis bearing holder stl file? Thanks!
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
I took both
I am confused between GJaurora or Ender 5, can you please advise me? I will highly appreciate it. I need it for architectural modeling purposes. Thank you so much.
What do you think about Enclosures? I dont you think you could use an enclosures with the A5.
Very nice 👍🏼 comparison
Thanks for sharing :-)
Although I agree with your findings, you say that you like the power resume function of the A5 more then how the CR-10 does it.
Now my own findings are completely the other way around, as I think the power fail function on the A5 is completely useless, unless you do something with the A5 that you should not do, and that is using glue to stick your part to the bed. When the A5 has a power fail, it (normally) will only resume after the machinist returns to the printer and restarts it again. Under normal conditions, this is only after minutes to hours... Now the bed has been cooling down and the print is not attached to the bed anymore. Restarting the printer and resuming the print is not possible under real life situations. Only when you test this with unplugging the printer and immediately resuming the print, the bed has not cooled down completely and the print is still on the bed... This is no real life situation.
As the CR-10 doesn't have the diamond bed but uses normal glass, you also don't have this problem.
You are perfectly correct. I was using the anycubic version of diamond bed on the CR10 and diamond on the A5. In both cases I knew that adhesion would fail on power fail. I used glue stick on the CR10 and Kapton tape with glue stick on the A5. As you saw, the CR10 adhesion failed, causing the layer shift. The A5 did not.
When my A5 had power failure, I didn't have issue with the bed cooling down, but the hot end crashed into model and caused number of other issues. I can't rely on Adhesion of the "Diamond" bed = too many mishaps when model became loose in he middle of the printing. Also I had same with the filament sensor on A5 like you on CR10 => Resolution simply unplug the cable from the LCD board. I still think it is a good printer and I was looking to buy second one BUT QC is not there and I will buy PRUSA Original M3 or even M2 or both. Life is too short to be Beta-Tester
You're calling the A5 the 5s I know there's a decided difference between the CR-10 and the CR-10s in features although you can buy both versions. What I'm asking is are there two distinct models of the A5? I've only seen the one. Have they changed the version of Marlin it's shipping with? Other reviewers have said it came with an old dead tree version lacking many features.
It's so hard to choose an expensive 3D printer (and yes, on a fixed income $500, plus a table, power strip, new tools, lighting, etc is a lot of money) you have to go on reviews (there's no where locally I can lay hands on them) one reviewer has mice nesting in his A5 it's been sitting dead for so long. Another reviewer, Joel Telling, says the CR10 is better than sliced bread.
My head is going to explode.
I thought the cr-10s is a 24volt system?
I like your vids but i would like to see less talking and more printing and more focus on samples and on the printers. I hardly see the printers you review? That is kinda weird for a review / shootout. But that is just my preference, keep it up, just trying to be constructive no bashing.
After your mishap with JG Aurora did you find if the power supply was switchable between 240 & 110Vac? If so where was the switch?
yes it was, switch was accessed via a hole in the case.
Thrills says a5s but video shows a5.
well done m8
+Delcos Mann thanks
you are right John. But unfortunately you place your judgement about design at the end of your video, so this is very significant.
A5 wins
Yep we believe so
Buy JGaurora A5s
Gearbest: goo.gl/u5zJpn
Code: JGAURORAA5
LATEST CODE TO TRY
$499.99 with coupon:CR10SEUCO
CR-10 US Coffee
bit.ly/2lo9u8Z
Code: BoxingdayCoffee10S or GBCR10S
Creality CR-10s US PLUG
bit.ly/2hw28ij
Code: TheHotEndCR10S or 1111GBCR10S or GBCR10S
Creality CR-10s EU PLUG:
goo.gl/QSQiVp
Code: TheHotEndCR10S or 1111GBCR10S or GBCR10S
Creality CR-10 (original) US PLUG
CODE: 11CR10US
goo.gl/Ff86kx
Creality CR-10 (original) EU PLUG
CODE: 11CR10EU
goo.gl/Erhc9w
technical design is more important than print quality? Can't believe it ...
a well designed printer and great print quality come hand in hand. see the individual reviews for more prints off each
I think I said the print quality was better on the A5 as well.
US plug version codes EXPIRED
Which printer I'll get a new code
Aurarum Filament: www.aurarum.com.au/
CODE: THEHOTEND
Way tomuch Blabla