Disclosure : I may be an affiliate of any product shown or tested here on the channel. It may have been free or given to me by a discount. Either way. It is my duty to you the viewer to give an honest, unbiased opinion on an item. I’m pretty straight forward. If something sucks I will let you know. If you choose to purchase a product from a link here I may benefit from a small commission. Or may not if it is a company who just sent it for a one time review. I don’t get paid for making a video. So to those of you who do support the channel I want to say thank you in advance. Please keep watching and I will keep up the great videos!
Something that you can try instead of using tape for you bed adhesion is hair spray. i recently got a CR-10 which is also my first 3d printer and i have been using hair spray and have not come across any problems thus far
Hairspray is great for ABS - but beware - I had a glass bed shatter when the print was finished because the ABS was trying to shrink more than the glass, and the hairspray had glued them so tightly together it placed a lot of stress on the glass (and it wasn't a lot of hairspray either). Personally I don't bother with ABS anymore - if it's a model or something where small details matter I do it in PLA, if it's mechanical I use PETG (which tends to stick so well to glass that it will take chunks of your borosilicate glass bed out with NO adhesive help - so don't push that first layer down near as much as you would PLA/ABS, PETG is sticky) - PETG layer bonds very very well, parts actually break across layer lines rather than along them.
Your noob review was one of the most useful I've found! While, yes, I've seen enough online to guess your ABS issue (bed is losing too much heat), you are the first one I've seen give cost breakdowns per print. I was expecting 50-100 percent more which would be enough to keep me from experimenting to find the sweet spots. Your video has shown me that I can actually pull the trigger on my first purchase and can afford to become a better person through learning from my mistakes. Thank you sooooooooo very much!
Wow you gave me great advice two years ago when I was getting into drones and now here you are talking about my new hobby 3D printing. I got my CR-10 (my first 3D printer) 5 days ago and love it. Thanks Justin we are on the same curve here!
You will need a closed chamber arround your printer for ABS to work. This makes sure that the heat is evenly distributed and constant, so the ABS layers won't shrink making everything curl.
Nice video. When I got my CR-10 the first thing I did was purchase a 12 x 12 inch PEI Sheet from Amazon which came with a sheet of 3M glue sheet. Installation was easy and PEI is a great bed surface for any type of filament.
This is one of the easiest to watch reviews I have seen on here. Thank you, it has been extremely informative and I doubt you left anything out. The CR10 Is now firmly on my possibility list to buy as a first printer. Good luck with your ABS keep us informed. Subscribed
I've been printing ABS on my Up printers for a couple of years and it is a great material, but you need an enclosure to keep the heat in. If it cools too quickly, it will warp, so also remember to turn the part cooling fan off completely. I'm getting a CR-10 soon so I am planning on building an enclosure for and getting a brewers heat pad to place under the frame to help with heat loss. I wouldn't recommend including the control box inside the enclosure, the heat may affect the electronics in there, but the printer itself should be fine. One of the best things about ABS is you can use acetone to do a chemical weld on parts you want to stick together. They will never come apart. Also, you can use acetone vapours to smooth out parts so they look almost as good as injection moulded parts without having to sand them. Get video though, really enjoyed your review and made me even happier I had ordered one :)
Thanks for the video, got one of these en route. A side note RE carbon - it is an abrasive filament and wears out your nozzle, as long as you keep an eye on it and have a spare you're all good.
If you would like a successful print from ABS the best thing I found out is to get a box or something to cover your printer with. Doing that the ABS will not warp and you will LOVE the way it comes out trust me ABS is about the only filament I use. I don't use PLA mush because I don't like how it melts with heat.
When i print with ABS i turn my cooling fan off and the curling stopped...heat will expand, cooling will contract, the fan is cooling the top to quickly and pulls it off the bed. Lower or turn off the fan and keep raising the bed temp till it stays stuck. Great review.
I've been using Simplified 3D for about 6 years. It keeps getting better and well worth the money, highly recommended. To answer your question, Yes most mixed filaments are PLA.
Hi, As you probably are aware, 400 mm is 16 inches, not 18. I have found printing TPU on glass works really well, and the print peels right off. PLA, in many cases (I have found) sticks really well around 70 deg Celsius and is really easy to snap off around 60 degrees. One thing I have found with my CR-10 is that the build plate is so large, and the heat is concentrated in the middle, the centre of the plate bulges enough to make it necessary to make the corners a little bit lower than what is normally needed while levelling the plate...I may try an insulating pad. Unfortunately, it is not the glass itself as I have flipped it and rotated it and the spot seems to always be in the centre, right above the heating block. Happy printing!!
Hi again, I had similar curling issues when trying to print longer parts in PLA on the CR-10. What I did was set the fan down to 10% for the entire print which worked really well. I think the fan is pretty strong on this unit, or maybe it's the nozzle, but the plastic seems to cool too fast causing shrinking on one of the corners or ends of the print. I am not sure if the same is true with ABS but, it might be worth the shot:)
Great video, thanks for the review. I'm glad you got the wood/TPU to turn out and that video/mod you linked to for the TPU was money. You're going to need an enclosure (aka sealed off box) to print ABS, otherwise it cools and warps and pops off the bed mid print. The enclosure keeps the whole thing warm until it's done printing. Join the CR-10 Fb page and there's a bunch of people who have made enclosures to print ABS there.
Just wanted to say - Love the shirt you were wearing! I'm a long time Shenandoah River Rat and I also 3D print. I was looking at this printer as mine only has a 200mm square build area
Next time you print with wood with thin cross sections, after sanding try sealing it with thinned EPOXIE. Wood done this way makes it strong as steel. And boat builders do this because of the resulting strength . Cool video and great information thanks.
for bed adhesion i only use a well cleaned glass bed. no glue stick, no masking tape, nothing but a clean glass bed, and it works very well! also u get the bouns of a glossy finish on the surface that was stuck to the bed.
Nice video, try a PEI build surface. I use a PEI build surface on printer and it works perfectly! All of my parts just pop off of the bed once it cools off
ABS is difficult to print ... It has a tendency to shrink as it cools causing warping (as well as smells a lot while printing). Another strong filament you might want to try is something called PETG ... Is strong and doesn't tend to warp as much ... Also Nylon is an amazingly strong filament to print (though you would probably need to change the hotend, since Nylon likes to be printed at a higher temperature than is recommended for the default CR-10 hotend ... (I have used a brand called "Taulman Bridge" and it is "quadcopter strong" ...) I like to use watered down Elmers PVA glue (90 water to 10 glue) painted directly on the glass, (when the bed heats up the watered glue dries quickly)... Less chance of build plate material getting in the way ... works great.
@Drone Camps RC with ABS try some kapton tape for your build plate and/OR make an enclosure to keep the temperatures equalized inside your printing environment
If you want ABS to stick reliably on large parts you really do need a heated enclosure. You can get lucky on thin large parts if you get your temps just right and the first layer sticks very well. First layer is key though, you may want to set your first layer to extrude at over 100% and try to get a tiny bit closer to the bed. 95 deg on heat bed for a minimum
Nice coffee maker! That printer is nuts, for your first one you seem to have picked a good one. It's only a matter of time until we no longer order products, just download and print ;)
Great video,my CR 10 is on its way to LasVegas.I would like to prebuild an enclosure.What size does it need to be to allow bed travel? I will put the power box outside of enclosure.Probably wooden frame with plexi glass sides to see what going on.Also what type of camera do you use for your videos?It looks great.
Drone camps rc, great video bro keep it up I can't wait to get one I want to not only make drone frames I also want to make planes as well. You have definitely eased my mind on getting one as a amateur 3d printer user.
Great video one favor if you still have the original box can you please give the exact sizes of the box. They list that on the shipping page but I wanted to make sure because a one inch makes a huge price difference when someone try to do the shipping from a country that the seller ship to but not to another country where it's really going to. I hope you can do it. Believe it the difference anywhere between $70 to $170. Thanks
Drone Camps RC - Thanks... Just a heads up... you will want to give credit to the designer that you got it from when you use a print from Thingiverse or Myminifactory... This is the link you can put in you description to get right to the print as well and a great place to give the credit to the designer.. www.thingiverse.com/thing:1670683
A glass bed and hairspray or glue stick works great. I don't use Build Tack and my prints come out great. Plus when the bed cools, the print literally releases from the bed.
I a lway use abc... Use only glass and hair spray aqua net extra hold...and you must build a box around your 3d printer to keep the heat in. You must meet the print from getting external cooler air..... Also you can design a surface for your model to build on with many grooves in mating surface this also helps from warping...enjoy
I was considering making some ducts for the DJI Phantom 4 blades, however I am also considering maybe just trying to make some blades with vertical winglets. Any thoughts on this, and if so what would the best medium be to use?
ABS....smear light about of PVA wood glue on bed...then put a bed sheet or similar over whole printer...works for me everytime. & I don't have a enclosure laying around. Just find away to keep the heat in.
You should print a stress reliever for the heated bed wire because after awhile the wire solder will snap. For ABS, the Cr 10 isn’t the best at keeping its bed hot so you need to have some type of enclosure on your printer. Really anything will work like a trash bag over the printer.
Try petg and print the cable holder for your printer and your abs got cold that why it warped you need to have your printer in a enclosure to print abs to keep the temps high.
Get some 1/8" Plexaglass and make a simple box to go over the entire printer frame to keep the heat in and the drafts out. AC or a room fan can and will screwup your print in ABS.
For ABS, your bed is actually too COLD. I print at 100C and have the printer enclosed. I am not using the CR-10. I use a Rostock Max which has a similar size. ABS needs to be hot and cool very slowly otherwise it will delaminate. Your print is delaminating from the bed because it is too cold. You need to insulate the bed and use some kind of enclosure to keep the heat in. ABS does not like cooling off quickly so no layer fan. No fan at all. I had the exact same problem and it tool a week for me to figure it out. I thought surely not this hot?!? If you want it to stick, yes.
Do you know if it is possible to print polycarbonate with the CR-10 - or if there is any way to improve it so that it can use it? The new BED on the CR-10 v2 version has now 24V. But i am a beginner in printing and would need PC for my project :-) Thanks for your answer :-)
buying a high quality nozzle is even good for the printing quality! a friend of mine was only swapping the nozzle and the quality was changing immediately!!! maybe you can try that, but I think your friend has telling you this before printing
Hello and I'm now a subscriber! I am also new to the subject, and enjoyed this review immensely. I am also trying to determine which device is best for me and the first investment. I happened to find this by accident, but happy I did. Now for the asking questions.... Being new to the subject, I need to know. 1. what types of material is best used for what types of objects as end results, and why? 2. Are rolls of the material expensive, how much for example? 3. Do they go fast? How large of an object is made by most of a roll? 4. would you say that the CR10 is one of the best all-around printers? 5. Does it fit into a special category that makes it better for this use? 6. Can you list the categories that you can think of? 7. After using up a roll of material, do you simply load the next roll and it will be appended to the previous product without problems like leave gaps? **** Probably a new video would be best to cover these types of issues. Hope that I find it after it's made! Thanks for this video and keep it up please.
You should try printing in petg it has the strength of ABS with the flexibility of pla and it's much easier to print with non toxic fumes and is extremely shiny if you like shiny I do recommend you build an enclosure so that you can keep the temperatures to a uniform height as both PLA and abs will warp mid print if you have a breeze or air conditioner turning on
Sean Devine I want to clarify that PLA is the opposite of ABS. PLA needs to be cool. Try printing something without your extruder fan cooling the print. . ABS on the other hand needs an enclosure and has to be kept as warm as possible to prevent warping.
Your glue stick w/abs - wash the bed with damp rag then take the cheapest glue stick (3 for $1 at $ .99 store)... the cheaper the better. Then apply a thick layer and use damp rag to smear it. This process can last maybe a couple of prints. With the first step done before each print while bed is heating you just put a very light layer. Completely wash the glue off about every five or six prints & repeat
For ABS, you need to insulate the bottom of the bed... and build an enclosure. Otherwise the bed won't get to 100-120C needed for ABS, and the enclosure keeps the air warm so the ABS doesn't cool as fast and warp. Note that you should still mount the control box outside the printer enclosure... so it doesn't get heated up.
Chase is doing it the right way. To get it going faster, with less construction, try these tips: Lose the Raft, it's meant to isolate the print from the heat of the heatbed, while also providing adhesion. You don't want to isolate the print from the heat, as it's the cooling ABS on the top layers which is causing the print to warp away from the bed. Flip over to the glass side of the surface and liberally apply extra strength/hold hairspray. I've had good luck with Aqua-Net, but Walmart's brand has just as much hold with a finer, easier to apply spray pattern. Apply 5-6 layers and allow the hairspray to dry between each layer (re-apply a single layer between prints and clean and reapply the full set when it starts to look dirty). To further aid in adhesion, print using a connected skirt/brim, at around 20 perimeters. You'll remove and discard this bit in post. Increase your perimeters to 3-5, with more taking longer but better preventing layer splitting and improving layer adhesion. You'll want some fairly thick perimeters for this, even 1:1 (.40 for a .4 mm nozzle) So set Extrusion Width to manual and enter that there. Bring the bed to 90c and the nozzle to the top end of the filament manufacturer's suggested range. You'll only reduce this if the filament discolors or is burning. Since you're printing long and flat, for quads, I bet you can pull it off without building an enclosure, though I'd strongly recommend doing that too, in the long run, along with Chase's other suggestions.
Hey Drone Camps RC, I've got no experience with this at all for starters but I'm going through doing the research so far & I heard that some people that have had the best experience with ABS have insulated their printer so that it's printing in it's own oven. My best guess on how they did this was to buy some silver backed wallboard insulation that is about 1/2" thick & made a makeshift box over their printer keeping the heat trapped inside that comes from the bottom plate. I was thinking of doing this as well as getting a piece of special glass that can take the heat to make a viewing window & also a window over the top to allow natural light in so when you want to peek in at your construction. With that box over the printer you could hinge a door on it, have a sidewall section cutout so that the guts of the machine that you want to keep cool is on the outside.
great idea with ur drip coffee maker if u have hot water storage during a black out the drip coffee maker comes in handy do not require power chop some beaches and boil water
Why didn't you print the coffee maker oriented laying on the side? It would need support but would make the coffee maker way stronger. It always important to think about the direction of the layers.
I can help you with 3d printing stuff, but I need some help because I want to be part o the micro drone building world, where can I start? I purchased my 3d printing just for this :), thanks
Simon already mentioned it, your coffee makers looks great, but wood filament isn't the strongest given a lot of filler in it. Plus the orientation you printed it in is the weakest profile. You should print it on its side. It is probably ok given it not huge, but the risk is boiling water on yourself or through your electronics should it break. Imagine the strength in timber grain. 3d printing has similar grain considerations as to strength. The bonding between layers is generally it's weakness. Enjoy your videos, the cr10 is an excellent machine I have 3 of them and original prusa mk2.
Disclosure : I may be an affiliate of any product shown or tested here on the channel. It may have been free or given to me by a discount. Either way. It is my duty to you the viewer to give an honest, unbiased opinion on an item. I’m pretty straight forward. If something sucks I will let you know. If you choose to purchase a product from a link here I may benefit from a small commission. Or may not if it is a company who just sent it for a one time review. I don’t get paid for making a video. So to those of you who do support the channel I want to say thank you in advance. Please keep watching and I will keep up the great videos!
Something that you can try instead of using tape for you bed adhesion is hair spray. i recently got a CR-10 which is also my first 3d printer and i have been using hair spray and have not come across any problems thus far
Drone Camps RC you Can make Some case for the printer than the ABS wil smelt better
Hairspray is great for ABS - but beware - I had a glass bed shatter when the print was finished because the ABS was trying to shrink more than the glass, and the hairspray had glued them so tightly together it placed a lot of stress on the glass (and it wasn't a lot of hairspray either). Personally I don't bother with ABS anymore - if it's a model or something where small details matter I do it in PLA, if it's mechanical I use PETG (which tends to stick so well to glass that it will take chunks of your borosilicate glass bed out with NO adhesive help - so don't push that first layer down near as much as you would PLA/ABS, PETG is sticky) - PETG layer bonds very very well, parts actually break across layer lines rather than along them.
Is the new promo code out yet? I tied registering but it seems to be frozen on their website.
Make an enclosure for the printer to keep constant temp and stop air movement from causing the ABS to pull up and warp.
Your noob review was one of the most useful I've found! While, yes, I've seen enough online to guess your ABS issue (bed is losing too much heat), you are the first one I've seen give cost breakdowns per print. I was expecting 50-100 percent more which would be enough to keep me from experimenting to find the sweet spots. Your video has shown me that I can actually pull the trigger on my first purchase and can afford to become a better person through learning from my mistakes. Thank you sooooooooo very much!
I absolitely love how in depth you went into this printer, this video is better than most other reviews
Thank you!
Awesome video! Very down to Earth explanation and easy to understand. No fancy intro or distracting music.
Wow you gave me great advice two years ago when I was getting into drones and now here you are talking about my new hobby 3D printing. I got my CR-10 (my first 3D printer) 5 days ago and love it. Thanks Justin we are on the same curve here!
Awesome Lee. Glad I could help. Now I'm learning something new with you. My CR-10 is such a cool printer. I can't stop printing.
I appreciate all of the close-ups and angles of the printer, nice job and good variety of first prints.
You will need a closed chamber arround your printer for ABS to work. This makes sure that the heat is evenly distributed and constant, so the ABS layers won't shrink making everything curl.
Nice video. When I got my CR-10 the first thing I did was purchase a 12 x 12 inch PEI Sheet from Amazon which came with a sheet of 3M glue sheet. Installation was easy and PEI is a great bed surface for any type of filament.
This is one of the easiest to watch reviews I have seen on here. Thank you, it has been extremely informative and I doubt you left anything out. The CR10 Is now firmly on my possibility list to buy as a first printer. Good luck with your ABS keep us informed. Subscribed
Garry Potter
I am looking at getting this as my first printer. I know tech advances quickly, is this still a great contender today?
realising that you can 3D print wood actually blew my mind.
I've been printing ABS on my Up printers for a couple of years and it is a great material, but you need an enclosure to keep the heat in. If it cools too quickly, it will warp, so also remember to turn the part cooling fan off completely. I'm getting a CR-10 soon so I am planning on building an enclosure for and getting a brewers heat pad to place under the frame to help with heat loss. I wouldn't recommend including the control box inside the enclosure, the heat may affect the electronics in there, but the printer itself should be fine. One of the best things about ABS is you can use acetone to do a chemical weld on parts you want to stick together. They will never come apart. Also, you can use acetone vapours to smooth out parts so they look almost as good as injection moulded parts without having to sand them. Get video though, really enjoyed your review and made me even happier I had ordered one :)
Thanks for the video, got one of these en route. A side note RE carbon - it is an abrasive filament and wears out your nozzle, as long as you keep an eye on it and have a spare you're all good.
👍🏻
If you would like a successful print from ABS the best thing I found out is to get a box or something to cover your printer with. Doing that the ABS will not warp and you will LOVE the way it comes out trust me ABS is about the only filament I use. I don't use PLA mush because I don't like how it melts with heat.
When i print with ABS i turn my cooling fan off and the curling stopped...heat will expand, cooling will contract, the fan is cooling the top to quickly and pulls it off the bed. Lower or turn off the fan and keep raising the bed temp till it stays stuck. Great review.
Looking for a 3D printer. You picked the cr-10, then it,s good enough for me. This was a great review
Thanks Robert. This is a solid printer 100%
Great job explaining in laymans terms. Your a good person, i can tell.
I've been using Simplified 3D for about 6 years. It keeps getting better and well worth the money, highly recommended.
To answer your question, Yes most mixed filaments are PLA.
Thanks GRV !
No Problem, did you get my email on ABS printing tips from my experience?
Oh yeah. Just gotta get time to read and reply 👍🏻
Cool, just wanted to make sure it didn't get lost in the abyss. Later
Nice video! Thanks for sharing all those tips, and thanks for the links :)
Hi,
As you probably are aware, 400 mm is 16 inches, not 18.
I have found printing TPU on glass works really well, and the print peels right off. PLA, in many cases (I have found) sticks really well around 70 deg Celsius and is really easy to snap off around 60 degrees.
One thing I have found with my CR-10 is that the build plate is so large, and the heat is concentrated in the middle, the centre of the plate bulges enough to make it necessary to make the corners a little bit lower than what is normally needed while levelling the plate...I may try an insulating pad. Unfortunately, it is not the glass itself as I have flipped it and rotated it and the spot seems to always be in the centre, right above the heating block. Happy printing!!
Thanks PropNut. Yeah I know I was just measuring it again with a ruler. My bad
Excellent review & great job on your prints Justin!! Glad that you can make a Babyhawk frame with that :)
Thanks Alan. Pretty cool I can do so many things with it. I'm making a permanent home for it here.
Hi again,
I had similar curling issues when trying to print longer parts in PLA on the CR-10. What I did was set the fan down to 10% for the entire print which worked really well. I think the fan is pretty strong on this unit, or maybe it's the nozzle, but the plastic seems to cool too fast causing shrinking on one of the corners or ends of the print. I am not sure if the same is true with ABS but, it might be worth the shot:)
Great video, thanks for the review. I'm glad you got the wood/TPU to turn out and that video/mod you linked to for the TPU was money. You're going to need an enclosure (aka sealed off box) to print ABS, otherwise it cools and warps and pops off the bed mid print. The enclosure keeps the whole thing warm until it's done printing. Join the CR-10 Fb page and there's a bunch of people who have made enclosures to print ABS there.
Thanks Richard. Just joined up. I'm working on my enclosure now :)
Great video!!! I am a RC geek as well, crawlers, and looking at getting one of these.
Just wanted to say - Love the shirt you were wearing! I'm a long time Shenandoah River Rat and I also 3D print. I was looking at this printer as mine only has a 200mm square build area
Next time you print with wood with thin cross sections, after sanding try sealing it with thinned EPOXIE. Wood done this way makes it strong as steel. And boat builders do this because of the resulting strength . Cool video and great information thanks.
for bed adhesion i only use a well cleaned glass bed. no glue stick, no masking tape, nothing but a clean glass bed, and it works very well! also u get the bouns of a glossy finish on the surface that was stuck to the bed.
Nice video, try a PEI build surface. I use a PEI build surface on printer and it works perfectly! All of my parts just pop off of the bed once it cools off
ABS is difficult to print ... It has a tendency to shrink as it cools causing warping (as well as smells a lot while printing). Another strong filament you might want to try is something called PETG ... Is strong and doesn't tend to warp as much ... Also Nylon is an amazingly strong filament to print (though you would probably need to change the hotend, since Nylon likes to be printed at a higher temperature than is recommended for the default CR-10 hotend ... (I have used a brand called "Taulman Bridge" and it is "quadcopter strong" ...) I like to use watered down Elmers PVA glue (90 water to 10 glue) painted directly on the glass, (when the bed heats up the watered glue dries quickly)... Less chance of build plate material getting in the way ... works great.
Masking tape actually works great and doesn't need replacing often if you do things correctly. Buildtak is great for playing polycarbonate though.
This has helped a lot!, Thanks for the info! Great video as usual, keep it up
@Drone Camps RC with ABS try some kapton tape for your build plate and/OR make an enclosure to keep the temperatures equalized inside your printing environment
If you want ABS to stick reliably on large parts you really do need a heated enclosure. You can get lucky on thin large parts if you get your temps just right and the first layer sticks very well. First layer is key though, you may want to set your first layer to extrude at over 100% and try to get a tiny bit closer to the bed. 95 deg on heat bed for a minimum
one of the best 3D-Printer reviews i ever saw :D
Nice coffee maker! That printer is nuts, for your first one you seem to have picked a good one. It's only a matter of time until we no longer order products, just download and print ;)
Great Channel. Have you tried to print Nylon and if not will you? I think Nylon would be great for making rc parts.
Apply Purple Elmers glue stick in your bed for ABS . Sticks very good . Actually I don't play but ABS , is my favorite . Happy prints 👍
Also... you can bake Pla to increase it's strength I would suggest painting it with something waterproof as well.
Excellent review. What made you choose this over say the tevo tornado? I am looking at this one and the tornado for my son.
Great video,my CR 10 is on its way to LasVegas.I would like to prebuild an enclosure.What size does it need to be to allow bed travel? I will put the power box outside of enclosure.Probably wooden frame with plexi glass sides to see what going on.Also what type of camera do you use for your videos?It looks great.
Drone camps rc, great video bro keep it up I can't wait to get one I want to not only make drone frames I also want to make planes as well. You have definitely eased my mind on getting one as a amateur 3d printer user.
Thanks Michael it's a really cool thing. My ideas are endless with it
Drone Camps RC my only concern is do all my plane designs have to be vectored jw.
If you design them to print they need to be STL or Obj files
Drone Camps RC ok got it I figured as much I am appreciate the feedback
Your welcome. Check out Autodesks free program called TinkerCad
Great job on your projects you did. I want one but I got so many hobbies the wife would have my head in the printer lol. Thanks for review Justin.
Haha aww man. I feel the same. I almost don't have time for another expertise
Great video one favor if you still have the original box can you please give the exact sizes of the box. They list that on the shipping page but I wanted to make sure because a one inch makes a huge price difference when someone try to do the shipping from a country that the seller ship to but not to another country where it's really going to. I hope you can do it. Believe it the difference anywhere between $70 to $170. Thanks
How much power does this machine consume? Just curious with a 32 hour print. Love the use of wood filament.
For the ABS print, you might try using the 'glass side' of your bed by flipping it over and using a glue stick or hairspray to make the print adhere.
I'll try that thanks Raven
Great video on a first timers point of view of the CR-10... It is my next printer!
Where did you get the file for the drip coffee stand?
Thingiverse.com
Drone Camps RC - Thanks...
Just a heads up... you will want to give credit to the designer that you got it from when you use a print from Thingiverse or Myminifactory...
This is the link you can put in you description to get right to the print as well and a great place to give the credit to the designer..
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1670683
Ok thanks!
Great review, love the "wood" printing! 👍👍
A glass bed and hairspray or glue stick works great. I don't use Build Tack and my prints come out great. Plus when the bed cools, the print literally releases from the bed.
If you use hair spray on the glass does the first layer still come out shiny?
YEP!
Is this a great printer in 2018? I ask cause I am looking for my first printer.
I a lway use abc...
Use only glass and hair spray aqua net extra hold...and you must build a box around your 3d printer to keep the heat in. You must meet the print from getting external cooler air.....
Also you can design a surface for your model to build on with many grooves in mating surface this also helps from warping...enjoy
hello sir im new to 3d printing which of these should i buy Creality Cr10 or Creality Cr 10S thanks in advance
You can try ASA filament, which is similar to ABS without shrinking and warping
@Drone Camps RC What did you end up with for extruder and bed Temp for ABS? I have seen the other suggestions just no temps.
I was considering making some ducts for the DJI Phantom 4 blades, however I am also considering maybe just trying to make some blades with vertical winglets. Any thoughts on this, and if so what would the best medium be to use?
I might get this as my second 3D printer
Great Job on your Project!
Nice wood look project for coffee holder.
ABS....smear light about of PVA wood glue on bed...then put a bed sheet or similar over whole printer...works for me everytime. & I don't have a enclosure laying around. Just find away to keep the heat in.
Great video, have you had any luck with ABS so far?
ABS is nobodies friend ;). Thanks for sharing
You should print a stress reliever for the heated bed wire because after awhile the wire solder will snap. For ABS, the Cr 10 isn’t the best at keeping its bed hot so you need to have some type of enclosure on your printer. Really anything will work like a trash bag over the printer.
You're so lucky you got the blue one! I got the "Harley" version:)
Dude I love the blue one 😂👍🏻
Totally! The "Harley" version looks like they just didn't have another colour at the time...
Hehe
Hair spray can also help your print stick to the glass bed. That is what they use at the local Makerspace.
The wood filament is wood-infused PLA. For ABS, it is best to have an enclosure
Try petg and print the cable holder for your printer and your abs got cold that why it warped you need to have your printer in a enclosure to print abs to keep the temps high.
You should insulate the bottom of your aluminum pan to get better heat characteristics. It will help ur abs prints
what's this one like for printing gopro mounts with flexible filament, can you recommend a type for this?
Where did you get the model for that pour over coffee maker?
Get some 1/8" Plexaglass and make a simple box to go over the entire printer frame to keep the heat in and the drafts out. AC or a room fan can and will screwup your print in ABS.
For ABS, your bed is actually too COLD. I print at 100C and have the printer enclosed. I am not using the CR-10. I use a Rostock Max which has a similar size. ABS needs to be hot and cool very slowly otherwise it will delaminate. Your print is delaminating from the bed because it is too cold. You need to insulate the bed and use some kind of enclosure to keep the heat in. ABS does not like cooling off quickly so no layer fan. No fan at all. I had the exact same problem and it tool a week for me to figure it out. I thought surely not this hot?!? If you want it to stick, yes.
Awesome video, will this print direct from google's sketchup make> thank you
Do you know if it is possible to print polycarbonate with the CR-10 - or if there is any way to improve it so that it can use it? The new BED on the CR-10 v2 version has now 24V. But i am a beginner in printing and would need PC for my project :-) Thanks for your answer :-)
buying a high quality nozzle is even good for the printing quality! a friend of mine was only swapping the nozzle and the quality was changing immediately!!! maybe you can try that, but I think your friend has telling you this before printing
I'll try a nice brass nozzle on it
Hello and I'm now a subscriber! I am also new to the subject, and enjoyed this review immensely. I am also trying to determine which device is best for me and the first investment. I happened to find this by accident, but happy I did. Now for the asking questions.... Being new to the subject, I need to know. 1. what types of material is best used for what types of objects as end results, and why? 2. Are rolls of the material expensive, how much for example? 3. Do they go fast? How large of an object is made by most of a roll? 4. would you say that the CR10 is one of the best all-around printers? 5. Does it fit into a special category that makes it better for this use? 6. Can you list the categories that you can think of? 7. After using up a roll of material, do you simply load the next roll and it will be appended to the previous product without problems like leave gaps? **** Probably a new video would be best to cover these types of issues. Hope that I find it after it's made! Thanks for this video and keep it up please.
You should try printing in petg it has the strength of ABS with the flexibility of pla and it's much easier to print with non toxic fumes and is extremely shiny if you like shiny I do recommend you build an enclosure so that you can keep the temperatures to a uniform height as both PLA and abs will warp mid print if you have a breeze or air conditioner turning on
Sean Devine I want to clarify that PLA is the opposite of ABS. PLA needs to be cool. Try printing something without your extruder fan cooling the print. . ABS on the other hand needs an enclosure and has to be kept as warm as possible to prevent warping.
The pteg works really well
yeah and I never use a fan with ABS.
Your glue stick w/abs - wash the bed with damp rag then take the cheapest glue stick (3 for $1 at $ .99 store)... the cheaper the better. Then apply a thick layer and use damp rag to smear it. This process can last maybe a couple of prints. With the first step done before each print while bed is heating you just put a very light layer. Completely wash the glue off about every five or six prints & repeat
Great info!! Great reviews!!
The mod you make to print TPU, does it have to be removed to print PLA, ABS, and wood? Or can it just remain with no effect on the non TPU filaments?
For ABS, you need to insulate the bottom of the bed... and build an enclosure. Otherwise the bed won't get to 100-120C needed for ABS, and the enclosure keeps the air warm so the ABS doesn't cool as fast and warp. Note that you should still mount the control box outside the printer enclosure... so it doesn't get heated up.
Good notes! Thanks Chase. 🤙🏻
Chase is doing it the right way. To get it going faster, with less construction, try these tips: Lose the Raft, it's meant to isolate the print from the heat of the heatbed, while also providing adhesion. You don't want to isolate the print from the heat, as it's the cooling ABS on the top layers which is causing the print to warp away from the bed. Flip over to the glass side of the surface and liberally apply extra strength/hold hairspray. I've had good luck with Aqua-Net, but Walmart's brand has just as much hold with a finer, easier to apply spray pattern. Apply 5-6 layers and allow the hairspray to dry between each layer (re-apply a single layer between prints and clean and reapply the full set when it starts to look dirty). To further aid in adhesion, print using a connected skirt/brim, at around 20 perimeters. You'll remove and discard this bit in post. Increase your perimeters to 3-5, with more taking longer but better preventing layer splitting and improving layer adhesion. You'll want some fairly thick perimeters for this, even 1:1 (.40 for a .4 mm nozzle) So set Extrusion Width to manual and enter that there. Bring the bed to 90c and the nozzle to the top end of the filament manufacturer's suggested range. You'll only reduce this if the filament discolors or is burning.
Since you're printing long and flat, for quads, I bet you can pull it off without building an enclosure, though I'd strongly recommend doing that too, in the long run, along with Chase's other suggestions.
Thanks for your awesome insight. I'll take any help I can get
Wondering why the top and bottom of the coffee drip stand are not parallel. Did it sag after printing?
You do not need buildtak. Purple gluestick works great and allows you to remove the prints much easier.
Buildtak is soooo worth it, big fan of that stuff :)
How did u prepared the wood print that I looks like real wood?!
Hey Drone Camps RC, I've got no experience with this at all for starters but I'm going through doing the research so far & I heard that some people that have had the best experience with ABS have insulated their printer so that it's printing in it's own oven. My best guess on how they did this was to buy some silver backed wallboard insulation that is about 1/2" thick & made a makeshift box over their printer keeping the heat trapped inside that comes from the bottom plate. I was thinking of doing this as well as getting a piece of special glass that can take the heat to make a viewing window & also a window over the top to allow natural light in so when you want to peek in at your construction. With that box over the printer you could hinge a door on it, have a sidewall section cutout so that the guts of the machine that you want to keep cool is on the outside.
Wonder if you could print Duplo-Lego adapters on that thing? Then your kids (or you) could build large Duplo structures with finer Lego details.
great idea with ur drip coffee maker if u have hot water storage during a black out the drip coffee maker comes in handy do not require power chop some beaches and boil water
👍🏻😊
Also no need for BT Hairspray on glass works awesome.
Great video! Thank you! Have you tried printing tpu but turn off the retraction in the printing software?
No does that help?
Yeah, it helps a lot. it minimizes the issues very well.
Just an FYI, AquaNet hair spray is cheaper than the tac board, and works great. I use it without any issues
Nice thanks
what type of filament do they give u with the printer ? abs or pla ? or dont they give u complementary roll ?
7:45
Pla
Which autocad did you learn and how long did that take?
Very awesome!
hey do you think i could print a whole quad copter skeleton with a 3d printer and would it be durable as durable as wood? Thanks.
Yep. Print in Abs
Thanks for the review
Great info. thanks!
Why didn't you print the coffee maker oriented laying on the side? It would need support but would make the coffee maker way stronger. It always important to think about the direction of the layers.
It did print laying on its side
yeah, I saw that in the video. I meant laying on the other side.
what heat and speed settings do you run the wood filament at?
Build tank on mine got really worn down and the first layer stopped sticking so I had a bunch of strings
Where can I find a download of the coffee maker?
I can help you with 3d printing stuff, but I need some help because I want to be part o the micro drone building world, where can I start? I purchased my 3d printing just for this :), thanks
Simon already mentioned it, your coffee makers looks great, but wood filament isn't the strongest given a lot of filler in it. Plus the orientation you printed it in is the weakest profile. You should print it on its side. It is probably ok given it not huge, but the risk is boiling water on yourself or through your electronics should it break. Imagine the strength in timber grain. 3d printing has similar grain considerations as to strength. The bonding between layers is generally it's weakness. Enjoy your videos, the cr10 is an excellent machine I have 3 of them and original prusa mk2.