Well isn't this very timely! I finally took the plunge and changed out my '67 Deluxe Reverb's filter caps. And I have to give you a HUGE thank you for these videos, which not only gave me a really good guide as to HOW to do it, but WHY and HOW to do it right. If you are interested I will email you photos!
Hi PA, got a off topic question. I got a 68 Custom Fender Princeton and when i turn it on it makes crackling noise for a few seconds. Then the amp sounds normal and everything is fine. Would the first thing to check the pre amp tubes and is this always the sign of a bad tube? I enjoy your videos a lot 👍🏻 Greetings from Germany
I enjoy your channel. I must vent some frustration however - and not just about you - I have seen other utube guys do it too. Why not just start with testing the tubes as a matter of course?
@@mgreene888 Most tube testers are useless. They either test irrelevant parameters or test the tubes at 1/3 of the voltages to amps throw at them. The ones that aren't useless cost upwards of $5-10k and require constant calibration. I'm equally sick of people shoving their tubes in a cheapo tube tester, then saying "great, the tubes test good", then pull their hair out over a failing tube that the tester did not detect.
@@BradsGuitarGarage People say that but I find that a simple emission test can weed out a lot of bad tubes before doing any thing else - especially when the amp and condition are unknown. Dont take this as criticism of you or your methods, I would trust you as a tech for my gear - but I have seen more than one guy on Utube flail away and throw the "kitchen sink" at an amp with no results and then as a last resort finally tests the tubes, and hey guess what?
Because most home biasers use bias measuring plugs which have their own 1 ohm Ck and they might not know that they would then need measuring across one of two 1Rs in series. Because it includes the screen current and a good tech should know how to measure only the plate. Because it introduces a new point of failure. Because in amps with external bias measuring points the end user is chasing a mA reading but won't know the plate voltage. So they're just approximating a bias measurement.
@@PsionicAudio I hadn't considered any of those things. I really enjoy your content and hearing from you in comments and getting insight in to things from a "I have to deal with this every day" perspective. Cheers for taking the time. o7 PS: I think the AC30CC is fine stock. :P
This is off topic and a question to Lyle or any techs out there. I'm a musician who does the occasional repair and tinkers with electronics and my supply of good quality leaded solder just ran out. Can anyone recommend a good quality/brand of solder to buy in order to work on audio electronics? I'm based in the UK. Thank you to anyone who replies. My apologies if this sounds like a very basic dumb question. I used to go and buy from my local electronics shop, who I could trust to stock good stuff. They have since shut down and when I looked around online - there was just such a massive variety that I have no idea where to start!
I use Kester "44" 60/40 .031. I'm sure they'll have a distributor there. Aha (I'll leave you to convert .031" to mm): uk.farnell.com/c/tools-production-supplies/soldering-stations-accessories/solder-wire?brand=kester-solder
@@PsionicAudio Just got hold of some Kester solder and done a few test solders to get back in the swing - and it's excellent stuff. I'm modding a cheap MXL990 microphone, which thanks to using through hole components has a good upgrade path. Not sure I'm going to go with the 'official mods' though - I may try a few things out and use my ears as the judge. Thanks Lyle, both for the advice and for inspiring me to pick up the soldering iron more often!
Well isn't this very timely! I finally took the plunge and changed out my '67 Deluxe Reverb's filter caps. And I have to give you a HUGE thank you for these videos, which not only gave me a really good guide as to HOW to do it, but WHY and HOW to do it right.
If you are interested I will email you photos!
Good to see I'm not the only one that spends half a day writing 1000 word job sheets!
I can only imagine, Brad. “Caps rooted, board covered in splooge. Previous tech had brain fart. Still has output hum. Thanks Mesa Engineering!”.
@@mattchase3153 I'd hardly be able to differentiate between jobs if that were the extent of the specifics. Lol!
I love watching a PRO do that which they do so well. No “parts changer” tech wanna be here.
Nice video, great walk thru and fault finding methods..You sure know your stuff...Learning all the time..Ed..uk..😀
She is a beauty. I see why one would avoid to shotgun the caps.
Good video.
Hi PA, got a off topic question. I got a 68 Custom Fender Princeton and when i turn it on it makes crackling noise for a few seconds. Then the amp sounds normal and everything is fine. Would the first thing to check the pre amp tubes and is this always the sign of a bad tube?
I enjoy your videos a lot 👍🏻
Greetings from Germany
I have a Super Reverb blowing fuses. The screen grid resistors are measuring around 600. Waiting for parts. Could that be the cause?
Every ruby 5ar4 I've dealt with in the DRRI's have rattled.
Not one good one in the many!
I didn't see the part where you were measuring dissipation. What is your method?
I'll DM you. Too dangerous to include in the videos and have someone zap themselves trying to monkey do.
@@PsionicAudio Grazie. Molto bene.
I enjoy your channel. I must vent some frustration however - and not just about you - I have seen other utube guys do it too. Why not just start with testing the tubes as a matter of course?
What is it you think I just did?
Because it looks like careful testing of tubes on this end.
@@PsionicAudio I meant start with testing the tubes on a tube tester - before anything else.
@@mgreene888 Most tube testers are useless. They either test irrelevant parameters or test the tubes at 1/3 of the voltages to amps throw at them. The ones that aren't useless cost upwards of $5-10k and require constant calibration.
I'm equally sick of people shoving their tubes in a cheapo tube tester, then saying "great, the tubes test good", then pull their hair out over a failing tube that the tester did not detect.
@@BradsGuitarGarage People say that but I find that a simple emission test can weed out a lot of bad tubes before doing any thing else - especially when the amp and condition are unknown. Dont take this as criticism of you or your methods, I would trust you as a tech for my gear - but I have seen more than one guy on Utube flail away and throw the "kitchen sink" at an amp with no results and then as a last resort finally tests the tubes, and hey guess what?
(Briefly as I know you are busy dude) but why aren't you a fan of the cathode/bias caps? I personally find them really useful?
Because most home biasers use bias measuring plugs which have their own 1 ohm Ck and they might not know that they would then need measuring across one of two 1Rs in series.
Because it includes the screen current and a good tech should know how to measure only the plate.
Because it introduces a new point of failure.
Because in amps with external bias measuring points the end user is chasing a mA reading but won't know the plate voltage. So they're just approximating a bias measurement.
@@PsionicAudio I hadn't considered any of those things. I really enjoy your content and hearing from you in comments and getting insight in to things from a "I have to deal with this every day" perspective. Cheers for taking the time. o7
PS: I think the AC30CC is fine stock. :P
This is off topic and a question to Lyle or any techs out there. I'm a musician who does the occasional repair and tinkers with electronics and my supply of good quality leaded solder just ran out. Can anyone recommend a good quality/brand of solder to buy in order to work on audio electronics? I'm based in the UK. Thank you to anyone who replies.
My apologies if this sounds like a very basic dumb question. I used to go and buy from my local electronics shop, who I could trust to stock good stuff. They have since shut down and when I looked around online - there was just such a massive variety that I have no idea where to start!
I use Kester "44" 60/40 .031. I'm sure they'll have a distributor there.
Aha (I'll leave you to convert .031" to mm):
uk.farnell.com/c/tools-production-supplies/soldering-stations-accessories/solder-wire?brand=kester-solder
@@PsionicAudio Thanks Lyle! Much appreciated.
@@PsionicAudio Just got hold of some Kester solder and done a few test solders to get back in the swing - and it's excellent stuff. I'm modding a cheap MXL990 microphone, which thanks to using through hole components has a good upgrade path. Not sure I'm going to go with the 'official mods' though - I may try a few things out and use my ears as the judge. Thanks Lyle, both for the advice and for inspiring me to pick up the soldering iron more often!
Oops! Audio only
Try again. Full AV here.