I think the cardboard around the jacks is a safety compliance thing to stop anyone from pushing a screwdriver into the jack and touch any high voltage points inside the chassis. IC caps are absolutely lousy, I always use F&T psu caps, tube amp doctor seem to be pretty good aa well.
Old Solder. That's a perfect touch of whimsy for tube amps. Tube amps are my home and gig gear. Yes... Fender. Princeton and a De Ville 210. And the pragmatic relocation of the screen resistors, the upgrade caps? If I weren't in the midwest my gear would be on your waiting list! Thanks!
I have that exact same old Kester solder. I did demolition on a house a few summers ago that was abandoned since the 70s and found it there. It works great!
One trick I use when discharging the caps like you have shown is I connect the multimeter across a cap and watch the voltage drop, and just to be sure I check there is no residual voltage remaining about 10 seconds later. But good tutoring:)
Great video kid. I watched and listened attentively and learned a couple of new things. Who says ya can't teach an old dog a new trick! I liked that idea of moving the screen resistors onto the tube sockets. Ya know, I have cleaned up a few of these r.i. amps, particularly the Twin Reverbs by dressing up the wiring harness. I dislike the plug in ribbon cables. These are especially a troublesome part on BluesJR. I like the idea of moving those filament gnd balance resistors too! I have often heard that it not good idea to use standard home based hardware store types of rtv silicone adhesives in amplifiers due to the outgassing of acetic acid. It supposedly will continue to forever gas inside of a confined hot amplifier and will cause corrosion. I am unsure how huge an issue this really is,, alit probably depends on each h brands chemistry. The one to use is an Owen's Corning Formulation like the kind used for fish aquariums. I often will just use high temp hot melt glue. I always liked how SLM/Crate actually include a notation in their service layout illustrations included with schematics and call it out as "goop". Showing a balloon type line drawing around the components where the goop is present. Lol! Yeah these Fender Reissues, ya gotta love em or hate them. I hate the way that they detract attention and often obscure the value of true vintage amps. Thanks for video. BtW.... so what was the final deal with that output xfmr issue with that Marshall?
Nice work on that Fender! To think how flimsy the modern ones are compared to the '60s stuff... Leaded solder FTW - I've always used Cynel 60/40, now going into Broquetas 63/37. As Paul Carlson would say, nice and shiny - like a mirror!
Thank you for the tip on the filament circuit. I got a '65 Twin Reverb on the bench with the internal filament fuse housing burnt up on the board. I'm going to take that out of the circuit and rewire it like the vintage Twin Reverb as you've suggested here. This one also has the hum pot in place of the two 100 ohm resistors... gonna get rid of that as well as I've had those burn up on other amps.
My second video and you know how to draw a audience in!! Wild, crazy, wacky, stuff!! Do i remember that you learned from your dad! Very complicated to a non electrical understanding individual!! 😺 Love it and makes me appreciate the equipment more and more Colleen! And when I get home in a day or so I have some vintage Amos to unwrap and check out!
great vid, perfect amount of information, succinct, and great angles to actually see how/what you're doing. we're finally going into winter weather here in Australia.
Hi. That amp was made in 2011, It says so in the PCB sicker and It matches mine a 2012 with a similar Serial Number. They are very good amps. One of the best Reissues from Fender, you can´t get then new anynore. Now they are Digital "Tonemaster" a shame. Good video!
First time seeing your channel. Your knowledge attitude and amp work is top notch. Forgive me but a young woman who can service amps apart from being a musician is a powerful combination of attributes. Keep up the great work! Accept my sub in appreciation of your work and sharing.
Another great video! I really enjoy your videos and always learn new things. It’s interesting to see some of the differences between the original wiring paths and the reissue. It makes sense they use a fully board-based approach in the reissue, but clearly they lost some robustness and ease of maintenance by doing that. Thanks Colleen!
Love Fender DR. In my opinion one of the best amps Fender ever made. The reissue has a heater and a cheap caps problem. The whole PCB thing is rather a weak point in so many ways. I'm having mine re-hand wired right now. PCB out, quality components in traditional Fender cardboard hand wired fashion in, along with a speaker swap for an Eminence GA-SC64 Speaker. However, the circuit was slightly modified. No Vibrato anymore, i didn't use it and i have a Deja Vibe anyway, if i ever want to use one. Instead, the two pots are now designated a mid pot and a Master Volume pot. The 1st Channel will be a Trainwreck kind of circuit leaning more into Marshall territory and the second one is basically a 22W Princeton Reverb now. In addition the whole thing will be cathode biased, opening a myriad of tube options. I've heard one the guru made for another guy and was instantly convinced to have mine done the same way because it just sounds badass! Btw. the guys name is Udo Pipper and he is a Guitar and Amp tech with 40+years of experience, with a degree in music science and a long career as musical journalist interviewing and personally knowing a lot of Rock 'n Roll people. Kinda a legend in Germany. He has a small shop here in Germany and modifies amps and builds own boutique amps as well. On top he is just as much a nerd as i am and a nice dude i could listen to all day.
Love the video! This is exactly what I was looking for. Also, I feel like someone was dancing off camera when you were playing. 😆 Thanks for your A+ content!
The cardboard is called fish paper is probably treated with something to make it fireproof. I think its use was as an insulator to shield either heat or RF from other stages.
RF shields have to be conductive, so it can't be that. It's probably meant for safety, but I'd rather have a solid plastic barrier than some flimsy cardboard…
Love you Colleen! I have one, and was shocked and appalled when I took it apart to deoxit the pots.....ribbon connectors??? PCB??? Blecch....t sounds great now with vintage Westinghouse, RCA, Amperex, JJ, Mullard, love your videos!!!!😊
On circuit boards with really thin, fragile foil traces like these have, I prefer to cut the excess component lead off *before* I solder them. Cutting them after soldering tends to put more stress on the foil pads.
I have several reverb tanks that were spares for car radios. Do you think they might be useful as replacements in amps? Also jumping a cap while the unit is running can heal a defective cap. Had that happen. Nice to see you using a "Scare Stick". I made one from a broken drum stick. Saved me several times on microwave ovens and vinyl RF welders. The glue used to secure caps and some transistors in radios and TV sets has a habit of turning conductive. I always use clear 'Aquarium grade" silicone seal. The other types can have a chemical in them that can cause damage to the board and component leads.
Also, I understand that in the DDRI the 220ųF is not necessary as it was added likely as a safety incase a diode recto would be installed in place of the tube, but otherwise it’s unnecessary and another potential point of failure. A as long as a tube retco is being used that 220 and it’s bleeder can be removed and the traces jumpered
My dad back in the day used to fix TV i've forgotten most but this is a great video. I have a OLDer Hot Rod DeVille 4/10 it crackelled a lot? . do not see any hot spots..? But i built a 2 pice cab head & speaker . the repair guy around here said it was not a good candidate for that ... BUT since i did this its stopped crackling WTH ?? i did find pices of stub wire and a resistor floating around in there BUT i dont get it?? im all so afraid to bring it to the guy because of what he said Not a good candidate ?? i did a shot video on cab build have it on my utube channel thank you do much excellent video Native Vermonter here
Fascinating stuff, I could watch this for hours. But most of it sounds like Chinese to me. Thank God there are smart people like her to fix up our broken amps.
I noticed Terry on D-Lab adds a brass plate behind the front control pots and jacks like the older Fender amps used to have. Is this worth adding for the sake of grounding or noise reduction?
Hi Colleen, I love your videos and wish you made them more often. I have a question for you that I can’t seem to get a great answer to. Do you know of a way to determine how many watts my Fender Customer Deluxe Reverb consumes at idle, nothing plugged in, not on standby, all volumes at 1. Nobody, that I can find, knows how to answer this question. Please keep us updated often as to what’s going on in your shop. Peace✌🏼
i’m so grateful to have stumbled upon this! i recently bought an 01 hot rod deville and was glaf to hear that you service the early 2000 amps. would you have any knowledge or videos on the hot rod?
Hey Colleen. Love your videos. They are so informative! That said, can you tell me what temperature you generally use to solder/de-solder when working on PCB boards?
Nice work as usual ! I wonder if the paper shield is to physically prevent against accidental internal shorting if a jack was abused and broke / came apart and a chunk got loose ? Btw love your “Betty Boop holding an Amp” tat , Colleen !
Where did you learn all this stuff?? I’ve played for over 35 years but never dabbled in tube amps outside of trying new tubes and the occasional speaker swap.
@@FazioElectric , I have several "Solda-Pult" (aka "Big Blue") and other smaller all-metal solder suckers but was thinking of doing a review of some of Harbor Freight's soldering accessories to post on RUclips. PS, I am now retired from full time audio-electronics repair, but I have plenty of my own amp-repair projects waiting for me to get around to them; I got spoiled by 20 years of using a vacuum operated desoldering station every day at work and would love to get one for the home. That's not a Harbor Freight item, of course, but I used a very affordable AOYUE unit for several years, with a few slight tweaks/mods, and it worked surprisingly well.
@@FazioElectric , If the HF solder suckers are anything like most other solder suckers the only thing they are likely to need besides being cleaned is perhaps a fresh O ring and some silicone grease. Replacing O-rings is kind of a pain because you have to take the unit to the hardware store with the old, worn or swollen ring and select a new O-ring that is similar but perhaps very slightly smaller or larger, and the self-service parts bins at the hardware store are always jumbled, with parts in the wrong bins, arrgh (which inflames my OCD). I ran into this while replacing O-rings in a couple of garden pump sprayers rather than throwing them out and buying new ones for 30 bucks like most people do. I've got 3 or 4 O-ring kits here but one never seems to have the exact size needed, sigh....
The Reverb cuts out on my 2021 Fender Deluxe Reverb amp while playing. If I pull the guitar cable out and plug it back in while leaving it on it comes back on. I've brought it to two good amp techs and they can't find the problem. Any idea what causes this and how to fix it?
Hi Colleen, can you please add the name / brand of the caps in the description? You mentioned them, however, it was a bit unclear😉 I have a DRRI from 2008 - a great amp
I have a older 2002 year reissue hot rod de ville someone from the factory pushed the flat great wire over the top of the 6L6 tube it shorted out and blew the fuse I have not done anything to it yet will it ever work again
I know it's kind of unrelated, but how come the one-hole straps for that 1/2" EMT on the wall are attached to wood rather than into the wall with drop-ins or tapcons? The wood still has to be attached somehow right? So why the extra step, it seems like the kind of thing where there is a clear, logical explanation just out of the shot of the camera or something.
I'm not sure Illinois Capacitor (the original, bad caps in this amp) even make their own stuff anymore? The PCB in here appears to be dated the 49th week of 2010, and the capacitors aren't too close to the tubes… Personally I've always trusted the Japanese electrolytics most (barring a few bad series, notably Nippon Chemi-Con KZG and KZJ as used on PC mainboards of the 2000s, and early surface-mount electrolytics which were poorly sealed regardless of make), but they don't make axial types anymore so I'll keep F&T in mind for those.
Great timely video! I need to replace the filter caps on a Pro Junior but can only get them in 500v, the originals are 450v. I take it that’s ok to do?
It"s so typical of today's amps that even brand new out of the box they requite service both to operate optimally but to safeguard against future problems. What's really frustrating is that these improvements can be made with parts that cost just a bit more than what they use and plain common sense engineering when designing and building them. Instead the newer amps go backwards in terms of reliability and sound.
Colleen is one of my favourite tube amp repairers (along with the Great Uncle Doug)
Cheers from Australia.
🙂
My electronics knowledge is a full 0%. But I just LOVE watching amp repair videos! I wish I had gotten into electronics when I was younger!
Keep watching. You’ll pick up a lot through osmosis and find yourself with an iron in your hand one of these days. Buy a kit!!
Thanks for doing a Fender re-issue amp. I hesitate to work on them because of the flimsy PCBs but watching you helps me be more comfortable
I really like people who are knowledgeable about tubes. A successful repair.
It's HAS been awhile since we got an OG repair video. Nice!
Thanks Colleen
Colleen, I love watching people who take pride in their art. Be it paint, welding, architecture, or medicine. You are quite impressive! Kudos!
I think the cardboard around the jacks is a safety compliance thing to stop anyone from pushing a screwdriver into the jack and touch any high voltage points inside the chassis. IC caps are absolutely lousy, I always use F&T psu caps, tube amp doctor seem to be pretty good aa well.
Old Solder. That's a perfect touch of whimsy for tube amps. Tube amps are my home and gig gear. Yes... Fender. Princeton and a De Ville 210. And the pragmatic relocation of the screen resistors, the upgrade caps? If I weren't in the midwest my gear would be on your waiting list! Thanks!
I have that exact same old Kester solder. I did demolition on a house a few summers ago that was abandoned since the 70s and found it there. It works great!
One trick I use when discharging the caps like you have shown is I connect the multimeter across a cap and watch the voltage drop, and just to be sure I check there is no residual voltage remaining about 10 seconds later. But good tutoring:)
Great video kid. I watched and listened attentively and learned a couple of new things. Who says ya can't teach an old dog a new trick! I liked that idea of moving the screen resistors onto the tube sockets.
Ya know, I have cleaned up a few of these r.i. amps, particularly the Twin Reverbs by dressing up the wiring harness. I dislike the plug in ribbon cables. These are especially a troublesome part on BluesJR.
I like the idea of moving those filament gnd balance resistors too!
I have often heard that it not good idea to use standard home based hardware store types of rtv silicone adhesives in amplifiers due to the outgassing of acetic acid. It supposedly will continue to forever gas inside of a confined hot amplifier and will cause corrosion. I am unsure how huge an issue this really is,, alit probably depends on each h brands chemistry. The one to use is an Owen's Corning Formulation like the kind used for fish aquariums. I often will just use high temp hot melt glue. I always liked how SLM/Crate actually include a notation in their service layout illustrations included with schematics and call it out as "goop". Showing a balloon type line drawing around the components where the goop is present. Lol! Yeah these Fender Reissues, ya gotta love em or hate them. I hate the way that they detract attention and often obscure the value of true vintage amps.
Thanks for video.
BtW.... so what was the final deal with that output xfmr issue with that Marshall?
Just in time! I got a DDRI limited edition for Father’s Day and was getting ready to go through it to do all the things 👍🏽 thank you
I TOTALLY AGREE WITH ON THE AMP .I HAVE LOVED THE SOUND OF DELUXE REVERB FOR YEARS . 😊😊😊😊😊😊
Love this video! My old electronics classes in college will always prove to be invaluable.
Nice work on that Fender! To think how flimsy the modern ones are compared to the '60s stuff...
Leaded solder FTW - I've always used Cynel 60/40, now going into Broquetas 63/37. As Paul Carlson would say, nice and shiny - like a mirror!
Thank you for the tip on the filament circuit. I got a '65 Twin Reverb on the bench with the internal filament fuse housing burnt up on the board. I'm going to take that out of the circuit and rewire it like the vintage Twin Reverb as you've suggested here. This one also has the hum pot in place of the two 100 ohm resistors... gonna get rid of that as well as I've had those burn up on other amps.
My second video and you know how to draw a audience in!! Wild, crazy, wacky, stuff!! Do i remember that you learned from your dad!
Very complicated to a non electrical understanding individual!! 😺
Love it and makes me appreciate the equipment more and more Colleen! And when I get home in a day or so I have some vintage Amos to unwrap and check out!
Auntie Doug good to see you back
I still have my old school solder kester from the seventies as well
You're very thorough and you'll take steps to make the amp more reliable. Your customers are lucky to know where to bring their stuff.
Always get something out of a Fazio Electronics tube amp repair. Thanks as always.
Thanks for the video. Great summer to you Miss Fazio!
Like always, it is most definitely an absolute pleasure watching you work. Please keep the great and informative videos coming, Colleen...
great vid, perfect amount of information, succinct, and great angles to actually see how/what you're doing. we're finally going into winter weather here in Australia.
Hi. That amp was made in 2011, It says so in the PCB sicker and It matches mine a 2012 with a similar Serial Number. They are very good amps. One of the best Reissues from Fender, you can´t get then new anynore. Now they are Digital "Tonemaster" a shame. Good video!
Great, informative vid Colleen! Thx as always for sharing your expertise.
First time seeing your channel. Your knowledge attitude and amp work is top notch. Forgive me but a young woman who can service amps apart from being a musician is a powerful combination of attributes. Keep up the great work! Accept my sub in appreciation of your work and sharing.
Really cool and informative !!!! Thanks for this !!!
nice job straightening out the PCB junk .nice of fender to make that to bring income to keep the lights on love your patience with it
Another great video! I really enjoy your videos and always learn new things.
It’s interesting to see some of the differences between the original wiring paths and the reissue. It makes sense they use a fully board-based approach in the reissue, but clearly they lost some robustness and ease of maintenance by doing that.
Thanks Colleen!
Love Fender DR. In my opinion one of the best amps Fender ever made. The reissue has a heater and a cheap caps problem. The whole PCB thing is rather a weak point in so many ways. I'm having mine re-hand wired right now. PCB out, quality components in traditional Fender cardboard hand wired fashion in, along with a speaker swap for an Eminence GA-SC64 Speaker. However, the circuit was slightly modified. No Vibrato anymore, i didn't use it and i have a Deja Vibe anyway, if i ever want to use one. Instead, the two pots are now designated a mid pot and a Master Volume pot. The 1st Channel will be a Trainwreck kind of circuit leaning more into Marshall territory and the second one is basically a 22W Princeton Reverb now. In addition the whole thing will be cathode biased, opening a myriad of tube options. I've heard one the guru made for another guy and was instantly convinced to have mine done the same way because it just sounds badass! Btw. the guys name is Udo Pipper and he is a Guitar and Amp tech with 40+years of experience, with a degree in music science and a long career as musical journalist interviewing and personally knowing a lot of Rock 'n Roll people. Kinda a legend in Germany. He has a small shop here in Germany and modifies amps and builds own boutique amps as well. On top he is just as much a nerd as i am and a nice dude i could listen to all day.
Thanks for opening up a reissue!
Thank you for posting this. It was my amp of choice for years.
Love the video! This is exactly what I was looking for. Also, I feel like someone was dancing off camera when you were playing. 😆 Thanks for your A+ content!
The cardboard is called fish paper is probably treated with something to make it fireproof. I think its use was as an insulator to shield either heat or RF from other stages.
RF shields have to be conductive, so it can't be that. It's probably meant for safety, but I'd rather have a solid plastic barrier than some flimsy cardboard…
Love to see you dealing with HRD
That’s not what this is.
Love you Colleen! I have one, and was shocked and appalled when I took it apart to deoxit the pots.....ribbon connectors??? PCB??? Blecch....t sounds great now with vintage Westinghouse, RCA, Amperex, JJ, Mullard, love your videos!!!!😊
Great walk thru for the upgrades, and that's a cool little jam at the end :)
F's&T's are the best phase Inveters you can install ,I love them
On circuit boards with really thin, fragile foil traces like these have, I prefer to cut the excess component lead off *before* I solder them. Cutting them after soldering tends to put more stress on the foil pads.
So happy your video showed up in my feed. This is fascinating!
Thank you so much for putting this knowledge on the internet to share with others.
My screen resistor just blew and you saved me!
I love seeing a soldering iron in your hand again.🙂❤
I have several reverb tanks that were spares for car radios. Do you think they might be useful as replacements in amps?
Also jumping a cap while the unit is running can heal a defective cap. Had that happen. Nice to see you using a "Scare Stick". I made one from a broken drum stick. Saved me several times on microwave ovens and vinyl RF welders. The glue used to secure caps and some transistors in radios and TV sets has a habit of turning conductive. I always use clear 'Aquarium grade" silicone seal. The other types can have a chemical in them that can cause damage to the board and component leads.
Great video as always. One more Fender ready for the road.🎸💜
Great step through video, as always
I wish i still had my silver-faced Twin. I would've loved to have brought it to you for a redo.
Just a simple suggestion, I cut the leads before I solder, so to minimize the rf noise
potential (smallest antenna)
Love hour videos Colleen keep em coming!
Also, I understand that in the DDRI the 220ųF is not necessary as it was added likely as a safety incase a diode recto would be installed in place of the tube, but otherwise it’s unnecessary and another potential point of failure. A as long as a tube retco is being used that 220 and it’s bleeder can be removed and the traces jumpered
My dad back in the day used to fix TV i've forgotten most but this is a great video. I have a OLDer Hot Rod DeVille 4/10 it crackelled a lot? . do not see any hot spots..? But i built a 2 pice cab head & speaker . the repair guy around here said it was not a good candidate for that ... BUT since i did this its stopped crackling WTH ?? i did find pices of stub wire and a resistor floating around in there BUT i dont get it?? im all so afraid to bring it to the guy because of what he said Not a good candidate ?? i did a shot video on cab build have it on my utube channel thank you do much excellent video Native Vermonter here
Fascinating stuff, I could watch this for hours.
But most of it sounds like Chinese to me.
Thank God there are smart people like her to fix up our broken amps.
Try measuring for Dc on the negative sides of the caps!
Yay ❤ all vids but have been thinking of fender reissues. Thank you thank you thank you. 👍
she's bright and beautiful .....really fun channel !!! ..........(*personally, I would be test those resistors while I was in there ?!!)
Sprague, Nichicon, CDE....also all good replacement caps.
I noticed Terry on D-Lab adds a brass plate behind the front control pots and jacks like the older Fender amps used to have. Is this worth adding for the sake of grounding or noise reduction?
Nope, the excess noise is a product of proximal traces and long distances between components needed just to make the circuit work on PCBs.
Where was the end of the ground placed when you discharged the caps? I couldn't see. I am old. haha
Hi Colleen, I love your videos and wish you made them more often.
I have a question for you that I can’t seem to get a great answer to.
Do you know of a way to determine how many watts my Fender Customer Deluxe Reverb consumes at idle, nothing plugged in, not on standby, all volumes at 1.
Nobody, that I can find, knows how to answer this question.
Please keep us updated often as to what’s going on in your shop.
Peace✌🏼
Great explanation, thank you very much, do you recommend doing all this for a new amplifier as well?
i’m so grateful to have stumbled upon this! i recently bought an 01 hot rod deville and was glaf to hear that you service the early 2000 amps. would you have any knowledge or videos on the hot rod?
@@josen856 I do service the hot rods! I don’t have any videos on them, but I’ll have to make one :)
Nice. Love the pod.
That jumper is a winner!!
Looks like your time between videos has been spent getting more tats! I have the DRRI too. Great, great amp.
I feel like the diagonal cutter grip at 5:57 must be some advanced ninja magic that I haven't earned the right to learn yet
Hey Colleen. Love your videos. They are so informative! That said, can you tell me what temperature you generally use to solder/de-solder when working on PCB boards?
great job! well explained video. thanks!
Nice work as usual ! I wonder if the paper shield is to physically prevent against accidental internal shorting if a jack was abused and broke / came apart and a chunk got loose ? Btw love your “Betty Boop holding an Amp” tat , Colleen !
Where did you learn all this stuff?? I’ve played for over 35 years but never dabbled in tube amps outside of trying new tubes and the occasional speaker swap.
Very relaxing your video, I'll learn electronics and you're helping thanks
What type of wire is the yellow wire. Will any 22 gauge wire do the job?
Thanks for the video and off to order new filter caps...
I have the lame reissue, was shocked when I took it apart and saw ribbon connectors and pcb....
昨天刚拿到我的 Fender Deluxe Reverb，不幸的是 我同时打开了power和standby 它烧毁了保险丝 ，现在 新的保险丝还在路上 ，在这时 我刷到了你的视频 。希望其他部分没事....... 我在遥远的中国 真想请你帮我维修
It’s so good to watch.
Really great video very informative
Wow ! That is a very quiet fender amp !
Does anyone know if I can get those rubber switch covers? Half of my amps have em and half don’t.
Do you or anyone else you may know on west coast modify Deluxe Reverb reissues into handwired vintage circuit, maybe with MojoTone kit?
Sei eccezionale, c'è da imparare sempre❤
Great vid! Do you ever watch Psionic Audio? He has some cool breakdowns of Fender Deluxe issues
How do you techs mount amps upside down? I didn’t find yet something which fits and stable enough to hold it securely
Hey Colleen, harbor freight solder suckers huh?
I get those by the dozen. Love em
Are they sealed so you can't clean them out and use them more than once?
You can clean em out! They’re good in a pinch as my usual solder sucker finally broke on me 💔
@@FazioElectric , I have several "Solda-Pult" (aka "Big Blue") and other smaller all-metal solder suckers but was thinking of doing a review of some of Harbor Freight's soldering accessories to post on RUclips. PS, I am now retired from full time audio-electronics repair, but I have plenty of my own amp-repair projects waiting for me to get around to them; I got spoiled by 20 years of using a vacuum operated desoldering station every day at work and would love to get one for the home. That's not a Harbor Freight item, of course, but I used a very affordable AOYUE unit for several years, with a few slight tweaks/mods, and it worked surprisingly well.
@@FazioElectric , If the HF solder suckers are anything like most other solder suckers the only thing they are likely to need besides being cleaned is perhaps a fresh O ring and some silicone grease. Replacing O-rings is kind of a pain because you have to take the unit to the hardware store with the old, worn or swollen ring and select a new O-ring that is similar but perhaps very slightly smaller or larger, and the self-service parts bins at the hardware store are always jumbled, with parts in the wrong bins, arrgh (which inflames my OCD). I ran into this while replacing O-rings in a couple of garden pump sprayers rather than throwing them out and buying new ones for 30 bucks like most people do. I've got 3 or 4 O-ring kits here but one never seems to have the exact size needed, sigh....
@@FazioElectric
I clean them out but as cheap as they are, throwing them away and using a new one when they start acting up doesn’t hurt so much lol
I have a Princeton reverb reissue and I’m assuming relocating the resistors would be the same process.
Great video, thank you!
The Reverb cuts out on my 2021 Fender Deluxe Reverb amp while playing. If I pull the guitar cable out and plug it back in while leaving it on it comes back on. I've brought it to two good amp techs and they can't find the problem. Any idea what causes this and how to fix it?
Hi Colleen, can you please add the name / brand of the caps in the description? You mentioned them, however, it was a bit unclear😉
I have a DRRI from 2008 - a great amp
"F&T" capacitors. MOD filter caps are also good, and have a higher temperature rating.
I have a older 2002 year reissue hot rod de ville someone from the factory pushed the flat great wire over the top of the 6L6 tube it shorted out and blew the fuse I have not done anything to it yet will it ever work again
I know it's kind of unrelated, but how come the one-hole straps for that 1/2" EMT on the wall are attached to wood rather than into the wall with drop-ins or tapcons? The wood still has to be attached somehow right? So why the extra step, it seems like the kind of thing where there is a clear, logical explanation just out of the shot of the camera or something.
Nice work 👍
I'm not sure Illinois Capacitor (the original, bad caps in this amp) even make their own stuff anymore? The PCB in here appears to be dated the 49th week of 2010, and the capacitors aren't too close to the tubes…
Personally I've always trusted the Japanese electrolytics most (barring a few bad series, notably Nippon Chemi-Con KZG and KZJ as used on PC mainboards of the 2000s, and early surface-mount electrolytics which were poorly sealed regardless of make), but they don't make axial types anymore so I'll keep F&T in mind for those.
Colleen, does it make any sense to add in the brass pounder the pots.? Or are those grounds isolated from the high voltage grounds?
discharging the power caps with the ground/cable unplugged ?
Excellent ☮️
Nice job. Easy explanation aa well. Thak you.
Great timely video! I need to replace the filter caps on a Pro Junior but can only get them in 500v, the originals are 450v. I take it that’s ok to do?
Yup that’s fine! Just means they have a higher voltage rating :)
@@FazioElectric I thought that would be the case but great to get confirmation from an expert! Thankyou! Ps..Love the channel.
Also were the power caps under a dog house or has Fender cheaped out on that?
Yup they’re under a dog house
It"s so typical of today's amps that even brand new out of the box they requite service both to operate optimally but to safeguard against future problems. What's really frustrating is that these improvements can be made with parts that cost just a bit more than what they use and plain common sense engineering when designing and building them. Instead the newer amps go backwards in terms of reliability and sound.
What is the best DR RI to buy? Year?