Fyi, the newer speedyefi board have the boost pin already wired out to the evap solenoid plug in the engine bay. They started doing that around 2021 so you might not need to solder anything.
just pulled my new one apart boost pin is still open would still have to wire it like the video i guess only wondering what pin to select in tunerstudio
Man this is awesome information. That said what do you mean by T’ed off and goes to the header pin 2x on the V1.3 boards? Which is the one I have and wish to do this. Also if you have a link to some information for all of this that would be greatly appreciated and helpful. Thanks bud I’ve learned a ton from you over the past year
Great video! when going through tuner studios to get the signal for the boost controller what are supposed to select if your using the purge valve? Thanks for the help in advance
NICE VIDEO AGAIN MA BROTHER. BTW THEY SAY WHEN YOU USING A SPEEDUINO YOU MUST REMOVE A TOOTH ON THE CRANK SHAFT TRIGGER WHEEL. DID YOU HAVE TO DO THAT?
He's got a 1.6 Miata that didn't come with a toothed crank trigger wheel, only a cam angle sensor on the back of the intake cam. Speeduino supports the "99-05" trigger pattern used on the NBs with VVT, which is used to compare the crank angle to the cam angle to measure the cam advance on VVT cars. I don't know if the 96/97 trigger wheels are exactly the same, but they're not necessary since you can just rely on the cam angle sensor, though the crank angle sensor does provide extra resolution for more accurate timing. Apparently Mazda just needed the crank trigger wheel on the 96-97 USDM cars for misfire detection to pass OBD2 requirements.
@CashedOutCars You want to keep boost control low below 3500 RPM, this is because you dont want to get more then your lowest amount of PSI in this low rpm range. This wont promote spool, just create a higher psi limit. High boost on low rpms causes rods to bend, the map below 3000 should be 0. (Unless the wastegate spring is like 4psi, wich is very low)
On my car it did help spool, since higher boost down low = more exhaust flow at lower rpm = faster spool. This is because your boost controller is holding the wastegate completely shut vs allowing it to slowly open slightly as boost builds. (They open gradually, not like an on off switch). It had no effect on the upper PSI limit since that is controlled with the boost control table at higher RPM, since this turbo still spools relatively slow, so I never make lots of boost in that area
It depends, like Logan said, it’s a good first step. Also, with a good tune you could pick up some moderate power gains, more so on 1.6 cars since you can get rid of the AFM. The key is a good tune
Hi, I might be dumb or my english is not the best, but where did you set the actual targeted boost level? In boost control menu there wasn't any place for a pressure input, and you said the boost cut is a different story - it's just for hard limiting and protecting the engine. In the table where you set the numbers to 100s and 10s weren't pressure inputs either, for the open loop. Then how do you know what is going to be your max boost? Do you have to calculate that in head related to the duty cycles values? Im lost
It’s a bit trial and error in open loop! There isn’t an easy way to calculate what your boost level will be based on duty cycle since there are too many factors. Closed loop will target a boost level based on your target table. Good luck!
@@CashedOutCars Another thing just popped into my mind - did you change the internal wastegate spring to a smaller psi rating? In my theory: if you set boost controller to eg. 7 psi but the spring is rated at 9 psi, then it still going to reach 9 psi of boost because the spring won't let the actuator move at a lower pressure. Or you simply already went above the stock spring rate with boost :D ? Sorry for this much question, but you are working on these mods and you are the best source of valid information because of this. I appreciate your content and help.
You’re correct with what you said! The lowest boost you’ll be able to run (assuming no boost creep) is what your wastegate pressure is with no boost controller. You can raise your boost with one, but you can’t lower it!
Get this boost controller here! (Affiliate links for which I may be compensated)
Amazon: amzn.to/3mZcXvZ
You're becoming the real Speeduino ambassador here, its such a pain to find all this info for this ECU. I'm looking forward to more of these.
Thanks man! I’m trying to get all the tips and tricks that I find out there!
Much agreed I don’t know what I’d do without cash
There's a Facebook group called "Speeduino Tuning" with hundreds of knowledgeable people on. Definitely worth a look.
There's a wiki telling you everything you need to know.
@@8SecSleeper If that were true I wouldnt need to watch any of these.
Another great DIY video. I’d love to see a tuning series on all of this as I’m in the middle of build a turbo 1.6 Miata on SpeedyEfi right now.
Thanks! I’ll make tuning videos as I do more with it, right now it’s fairly well set up, so we’ll see what I do next!
I close my eyes and hear a young Howard Cosell. Great channel and love the content on anything Speedy ECU. Keep it coming!
Brooo gotta add this to the budget miata playlist. Spent an hour skimming throught the playlist looking for this video hahaha.
Added, thanks for pointing that out my man!
Fyi, the newer speedyefi board have the boost pin already wired out to the evap solenoid plug in the engine bay. They started doing that around 2021 so you might not need to solder anything.
Thanks for that tip! I appreciate it and it should help a lot of people
just pulled my new one apart boost pin is still open would still have to wire it like the video i guess only wondering what pin to select in tunerstudio
A video on closed loop would be good man!
enjoyable vid mate. will be doing this on my 1.8 NA with speeduino. be keen to see a tuning video and final results for you
Man this is awesome information. That said what do you mean by T’ed off and goes to the header pin 2x on the V1.3 boards? Which is the one I have and wish to do this. Also if you have a link to some information for all of this that would be greatly appreciated and helpful. Thanks bud I’ve learned a ton from you over the past year
Thank you thank you thank you i was having problems with the wiring and you made it so simple found my answer!
i’m still baffled at how little attention this gets, i am proud to be an og before you get more viewers
I agree, for some reason most of my stuff doesn’t really blow up.. hopefully soon! Cheers!
Great video! when going through tuner studios to get the signal for the boost controller what are supposed to select if your using the purge valve? Thanks for the help in advance
did you manage to find the pin im having the same issue rn :D
NICE VIDEO AGAIN MA BROTHER. BTW THEY SAY WHEN YOU USING A SPEEDUINO YOU MUST REMOVE A TOOTH ON THE CRANK SHAFT TRIGGER WHEEL. DID YOU HAVE TO DO THAT?
He's got a 1.6 Miata that didn't come with a toothed crank trigger wheel, only a cam angle sensor on the back of the intake cam.
Speeduino supports the "99-05" trigger pattern used on the NBs with VVT, which is used to compare the crank angle to the cam angle to measure the cam advance on VVT cars. I don't know if the 96/97 trigger wheels are exactly the same, but they're not necessary since you can just rely on the cam angle sensor, though the crank angle sensor does provide extra resolution for more accurate timing. Apparently Mazda just needed the crank trigger wheel on the 96-97 USDM cars for misfire detection to pass OBD2 requirements.
I did not! This was purely a plug and play install
@@agerrgerra1361 THANKS FOR THAT INFO
Awesome, thank you!
Glad I could help!
@CashedOutCars
You want to keep boost control low below 3500 RPM, this is because you dont want to get more then your lowest amount of PSI in this low rpm range.
This wont promote spool, just create a higher psi limit.
High boost on low rpms causes rods to bend, the map below 3000 should be 0. (Unless the wastegate spring is like 4psi, wich is very low)
On my car it did help spool, since higher boost down low = more exhaust flow at lower rpm = faster spool. This is because your boost controller is holding the wastegate completely shut vs allowing it to slowly open slightly as boost builds. (They open gradually, not like an on off switch). It had no effect on the upper PSI limit since that is controlled with the boost control table at higher RPM, since this turbo still spools relatively slow, so I never make lots of boost in that area
Super helpful video !
Glad this helped you out!
Is it worth buying a standalone ECU with no other power mod?
Price to performance, not worth it. BUT it gets you going in the right direction. You'll learn how it works and you're setup to install power mods
It depends, like Logan said, it’s a good first step. Also, with a good tune you could pick up some moderate power gains, more so on 1.6 cars since you can get rid of the AFM. The key is a good tune
Thanks
Happy to help!
Hi,
I might be dumb or my english is not the best, but where did you set the actual targeted boost level? In boost control menu there wasn't any place for a pressure input, and you said the boost cut is a different story - it's just for hard limiting and protecting the engine. In the table where you set the numbers to 100s and 10s weren't pressure inputs either, for the open loop. Then how do you know what is going to be your max boost? Do you have to calculate that in head related to the duty cycles values? Im lost
It’s a bit trial and error in open loop! There isn’t an easy way to calculate what your boost level will be based on duty cycle since there are too many factors. Closed loop will target a boost level based on your target table. Good luck!
@@CashedOutCars Another thing just popped into my mind - did you change the internal wastegate spring to a smaller psi rating? In my theory: if you set boost controller to eg. 7 psi but the spring is rated at 9 psi, then it still going to reach 9 psi of boost because the spring won't let the actuator move at a lower pressure. Or you simply already went above the stock spring rate with boost :D ? Sorry for this much question, but you are working on these mods and you are the best source of valid information because of this. I appreciate your content and help.
You’re correct with what you said! The lowest boost you’ll be able to run (assuming no boost creep) is what your wastegate pressure is with no boost controller. You can raise your boost with one, but you can’t lower it!
ty!
You’re welcome!
Damn bro. 26 PSI? 😅😂
The skys the limit if you're brave enough😂I run mine at 14