Dude this is awesome! I’m commenting before finishing the video but do you know the battery continuous amps and then the max Amps? I have a spare Votol em100 controller and stuff and seriously thinking about putting it in my 1600. All I need to know is battery specs. Cheers 🍻
@@user-hb2ve3md6c the gap is there because I zip tied the controller to the controller cover mounting hole. Once I secure it properly it’ll look like factory, everything fits underneath. As for the battery amps, I ran it at 100 line, 300 phasefor a while and it was fine. Couple different people on Facebook tell me they’ve been running 100 line amps long-term, so that’s probably the limit of what’s safe.
Thanks for the upload - I just ordered a Fardriver for my Super73. Would you recommend that speedometer? I need a small speedometer on my bike I’ll only run something small. If possible please do a video on how to install the speedometer to the Fardriver and any other information regarding- would be much appreciated. Congrats on the smooth build
@@knowEgo Can’t go wrong for $12 shipped. I have some additional details in the description. Your settings on the super73 will be different but a little trial and error will get you there. The purple wire on the Fardriver connects to the yellow hall wire on the display. Black and red on the display go to positive and negative from the splitters. You’ll have to put the display into “phase line speed measurement mode” by holding the M button and then turning on power. You navigate the menu by short clicks and adjust settings by long click. Idk why the aliexpress listing doesn’t include this info… PO3 is the setting you change on the display, the default is “hall speed measurement”
@@CringeMoto thanks so much for the information! I’m going to order this display this week and my controller comes on Thursday so I’ll be in the lab trying to get that bad boy running…I’m content with just doing a few test runs before it gets too cold! I live in the Midwest so no riding during the fall/winter months for me. Lol. Again appreciate your help and don’t be surprised if I’m bugging you with questions in the comment section 😂
Ok, when we add a bigger controller we typically up size our power wires sir. You may be ok though. Obviously it works but it could work better. Less resistance equals better efficiency, so more speed and range. Check if your wires are getting hot. Warm is ok, hot would indicate higher resistance. If you have a thermal camera that is obviously a great way to check your connections. The little cell phone attached thermal cans are real cheap now. You have a channel I bet you could hit up Topdon or Infraray and get one for free. So you made a perfectly good back up controller a doorstop for several inches of wire in it. Just order some wire next time. That's just wasteful. I know you wasted money on those giant waterproof connectors but still. So you messed up the wiring and still posted the footage of it? People have really short attention span. I'm writing you a couple of short paragraphs and you are probably thinking that's a lot right? See what I'm saying. Just a little blurb on the screen, a little text overlay or whatever would have been nice. Your power wires and your phase wires need to be sized properly for the amount of amperage you are using. Wire ampacity, it's a real thing. You don't have to buy bigger wires, though they do look better, you can supplement with smaller wires. Try to keep the lengths as close as you can to your current wires. Yes electricity takes the path of least resistance but it also goes wherever it can. Electricity is biased towards the path of least resistance. Real copper wires are about 30% more efficient than copper clad aluminum ones which are prolific in these Chinese controllers. You could burn out your motor or you could add a sensor since your new controller actually supports that sir. Use the motor in another project rather than murder it which I'm going to tell you these controllers can easily do. The warning for not having a temp sensor is turned on from the factory. That is a hint and half for you right there. What typically happens is the heat creeos up the phase wires from the motor and then insulation on the wires melts and then your controller is in dead short across your phases. The phases are all connected together anyway so that's normal but what isn't normal is usually just one is getting the high side output at a time. This can end very badly for your controller that is supposedly protected as well. You might want to not be so casual about killing a motor. It may be wise to place a little less faith in the quality assurance of these devices. I've had to repair these Fardrivers right out of the fancy box. Cheap wires. Though I own some of these controllers I am not impressed with the quality of them. But you can get a 680 delivered for under $200 so there's that. They are of course very optimistic with their numbers. lol
@@zentechnician it wouldn’t be a CringeMoto video if there wasn’t an element of poor decision making and danger involved. I 100% agree this is not the ideal way to do things, and I appreciate the write up. It’s a cheap way to get more performance for a couple hours of your time. At the end of the day if something burns up, a new motor is $150 and the controller is $130 delivered, so I can replace those a couple times and still be under the cost of a good 3shul/Trampa/Votol controller
@@CringeMotoit is cringe for sure. Name checks out. Oh yeah I don't think you ever said what size the controller was. They use that same green case on lots of them. 360 or ?
Best upgrade ever! I did one about a year ago, posted in the FB group.
48Mph is pretty good they need a Burromax upgrade with that speed.
Solid upgrade bro!! Fardriver ALWAYS for the win!!!
I’m sold. Doing this upgrade asap.
Nice bike dude. I just got one a couple days ago. Its fun and torquey but I want to make it faster. Subscribed!
SICK
Nice video
i’m running fardriver with 70 amps it wheelies no problem !
Dude this is awesome! I’m commenting before finishing the video but do you know the battery continuous amps and then the max Amps? I have a spare Votol em100 controller and stuff and seriously thinking about putting it in my 1600. All I need to know is battery specs. Cheers 🍻
Also I feel like I could 3D print a spacer to fill that gap from lifting the controller cover. There’s a lot of guys that have made this swap!
@@user-hb2ve3md6c the gap is there because I zip tied the controller to the controller cover mounting hole. Once I secure it properly it’ll look like factory, everything fits underneath. As for the battery amps, I ran it at 100 line, 300 phasefor a while and it was fine. Couple different people on Facebook tell me they’ve been running 100 line amps long-term, so that’s probably the limit of what’s safe.
@@CringeMoto Thanks man, I appreciate the info. That’s crazy then, the battery must have a decent BMS then to support up to 100A continuous.
That’s a nice upgrade. I have to keep this video save for when I get mine. How much better is the 1600 over the 1000?
@@rlenoxIII not sure if it’s better, just a little bigger, and a little extra range.
@@CringeMoto Thank you
Could you screen shot your settings
Thanks for the upload - I just ordered a Fardriver for my Super73. Would you recommend that speedometer? I need a small speedometer on my bike I’ll only run something small. If possible please do a video on how to install the speedometer to the Fardriver and any other information regarding- would be much appreciated. Congrats on the smooth build
@@knowEgo Can’t go wrong for $12 shipped. I have some additional details in the description. Your settings on the super73 will be different but a little trial and error will get you there. The purple wire on the Fardriver connects to the yellow hall wire on the display. Black and red on the display go to positive and negative from the splitters. You’ll have to put the display into “phase line speed measurement mode” by holding the M button and then turning on power. You navigate the menu by short clicks and adjust settings by long click. Idk why the aliexpress listing doesn’t include this info… PO3 is the setting you change on the display, the default is “hall speed measurement”
@@CringeMoto thanks so much for the information!
I’m going to order this display this week and my controller comes on Thursday so I’ll be in the lab trying to get that bad boy running…I’m content with just doing a few test runs before it gets too cold! I live in the Midwest so no riding during the fall/winter months for me. Lol.
Again appreciate your help and don’t be surprised if I’m bugging you with questions in the comment section 😂
Nice! How many phase amps are you pushing?
@@bj97301 80 line and 240 phase. Accidentally ran for like 20 minutes at 100/300 when my settings didn’t save… was pretty wild
@@CringeMotogot it. Keep me posted. V1 kit is rated for about 80/160. Worse case is you may need a belt sooner.
How did u adjust to mph and get speedometer accurate?
@@mycryptolife1292 display settings are in the description
Speedo on Ali is the 3wire option?
@@IDKaboutallthat I got the 4 wire so I could add auxiliary lighting, but the 3 wire will work fine.
@@CringeMoto that’s a good idea, that seems like it’d be a good spot for a start up led to connect to
Hi there where can I buy a far driver ?
@@arceecorso I got mine from hotpaxx. Link in description
Can you drop the link for the controller
@@Txvjerry it’s all in the description
Next Video in 30 business days
@@MrJLiebert real
Ok, when we add a bigger controller we typically up size our power wires sir. You may be ok though. Obviously it works but it could work better. Less resistance equals better efficiency, so more speed and range. Check if your wires are getting hot. Warm is ok, hot would indicate higher resistance. If you have a thermal camera that is obviously a great way to check your connections. The little cell phone attached thermal cans are real cheap now. You have a channel I bet you could hit up Topdon or Infraray and get one for free.
So you made a perfectly good back up controller a doorstop for several inches of wire in it. Just order some wire next time. That's just wasteful. I know you wasted money on those giant waterproof connectors but still.
So you messed up the wiring and still posted the footage of it? People have really short attention span. I'm writing you a couple of short paragraphs and you are probably thinking that's a lot right? See what I'm saying. Just a little blurb on the screen, a little text overlay or whatever would have been nice.
Your power wires and your phase wires need to be sized properly for the amount of amperage you are using. Wire ampacity, it's a real thing. You don't have to buy bigger wires, though they do look better, you can supplement with smaller wires. Try to keep the lengths as close as you can to your current wires. Yes electricity takes the path of least resistance but it also goes wherever it can. Electricity is biased towards the path of least resistance. Real copper wires are about 30% more efficient than copper clad aluminum ones which are prolific in these Chinese controllers.
You could burn out your motor or you could add a sensor since your new controller actually supports that sir. Use the motor in another project rather than murder it which I'm going to tell you these controllers can easily do. The warning for not having a temp sensor is turned on from the factory. That is a hint and half for you right there. What typically happens is the heat creeos up the phase wires from the motor and then insulation on the wires melts and then your controller is in dead short across your phases. The phases are all connected together anyway so that's normal but what isn't normal is usually just one is getting the high side output at a time. This can end very badly for your controller that is supposedly protected as well. You might want to not be so casual about killing a motor. It may be wise to place a little less faith in the quality assurance of these devices. I've had to repair these Fardrivers right out of the fancy box. Cheap wires. Though I own some of these controllers I am not impressed with the quality of them. But you can get a 680 delivered for under $200 so there's that. They are of course very optimistic with their numbers. lol
@@zentechnician it wouldn’t be a CringeMoto video if there wasn’t an element of poor decision making and danger involved. I 100% agree this is not the ideal way to do things, and I appreciate the write up. It’s a cheap way to get more performance for a couple hours of your time. At the end of the day if something burns up, a new motor is $150 and the controller is $130 delivered, so I can replace those a couple times and still be under the cost of a good 3shul/Trampa/Votol controller
@@CringeMotoit is cringe for sure. Name checks out. Oh yeah I don't think you ever said what size the controller was. They use that same green case on lots of them. 360 or ?