XBOX One S Black Screen: How-to replace a failed HDMI Retimer IC.
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- Опубликовано: 23 дек 2017
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This video shows the repair of an XBOX One S console which shows a blank screen on startup. It looks similar to a black screen caused by a hard disk drive issue - the best way to tell is to try and boot the console to the troubleshooting menu - if you get the second beep and an AV reset doesn't resolve the problem then this is likely the culprit providing no obvious damage can be seen to the HDMI output port.
The fix involves replacing the Texas Instruments-sourced SN75DP159 6 Gbps DP++ to HDMI Retimer IC - a small QFN-type package located slightly south of the output HDMI Port EMI Filters.
Many thanks for watching this video - if it helps then please COMMENT, LIKE and SUBSCRIBE for more content like this.
If you're a new viewer then please check out the rest of my channel - I have over 70 videos on the channel focusing on PS4 / XBONE / Apple Macbook and iPhone repair.
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Excellent video. I’ve watched 100s and nobody has explained the surface tension thing and it made an absolute world of difference. When you don’t know that, you feel like you have to manipulate the chip far more than you should, which ends up being counter productive! Thanks man!
It is so good to watch an expert do such a good job on these things. You make it look simple but I bet it isn't. One of these days I WILL have a go at doing this type of thing myself and seeing how badly I can mess the board up compared to how good you get it.
Hi Andrew, a very informative and professional repair, thank you.
Denatured alcohol tends to leave far less of that white residue. Thanks for the great series of documented repairs!
Came here from RUclipsr mymateVince suggested you are great source of info and he was right, very impressed thanks for being so informative 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I really enjoy Vince's content - it's a great watch.
Welcome to the channel and many thanks for coming along and watching. :)
Same here.
That's how I've found you as well :) No problem in subscribing from what I've seen in this video and Vince's recommendation. Looking forward to watching more videos.
Just a note-the SN75DP159 comes in two package sizes with different footprints-a 48 pin version TI calls VQFN, and a 40 pin version called WQFN. The xbox one s uses the 40 pin version.
Thanks for your comment. Helps to know.
Thanks for the comment. Do you know if the xb 1 x is also 40 pin version, or is it 48?
Thank you! I was wondering why my picture went away on this board, and it turned out it was due to my jumpers shorting to the other pins on the EMI Filters. After fixing that though, I still had the artifacting from your other video indicating an issue with the HDMI Retime IC. Fortunately I have a donor. I'll be swapping those!
Was it the re timer ?
Great work, as usual!
Great video ... Gave me the confidence to tackle my son's Xbox one s ...I'd never done an Xbox one retimer IC before... I got hold of a 75DP149 not the original 75DP159 ...I don't know what the difference is ..... But it seems to work ok ... Thanks for the video mate.
Is the console still running? I'm planning on buying the 75pd159 from AliExpress
Thank you . From you videos i repaired my ps4 hdmi with 5 pads missing . And an Xbox one s HDMI retimer. That chip is smal like 7x7 mm i think. I used some chinese 858D Hot air station and a cheap PC usb microscope for 10€. My eyes fall off. Thank you again you are from a big help.
Before I start to replace parts or even open my 0ne S. I figured I'd ask some questions and try to see what my actual problem is. When it's on and running the picture color fades or gets more to one color (that's new) what it's been doing is flashing in and out. Giving green lines. I checked with my other xbox so it's not the tv. Any ideas as to what's causing the problem?
Hello Andrew. Really enjoying your videos while trying to learn to replace motherboard sockets. Thank you! Can you recommend an adequate / cheaper flux for me to start with? I read that I can use a thinner 'oil' paste for removal and then a thicker paste for re-seating.
WELL I DON'T KNOW WHERE YOU TOOK ALL YOUR INFOS BUT I THINK YOU HAVE A NATURAL TALENT OR SKILL. I took electronic lesson and i can not do as well as you. WELL DONE AS USUALLY.
Thank you.
Where did you get the electronic lessons?
Hi when reballing on the Xbox one what size solder balls are required ?
Also where can you buy replacement South bridge chips and so on ?
Many thanks
Hi, I wanted to ask - I removed the Retimer IC with my hot air gun, but I accidentaly blew away one resistor (R8B12) and as it is a 0402 teeny tiny resistor, I have no way of finding it now. Do you think it would still work if I bridged the connection? Getting 0402 resistors under 100 pieces per order is difficult and I do not know the ohm value of that resistor :/
Hey andrew i have a xbox s im having problems with. It runs good about 15 mins of play it shuts off no codes or warnings. I have replaced the fan and re did the thermal compound. Any suggestions of what else it could be?
Good job boss. I’ve tried to repair a xbox one s but then I change the hdmi port but after doing that the picture comes on and off. Any advice / video game tech in Jamaica thanks
SO there are four models listed on the TI web site for the ic chip - would you please inform me of which is our chip for the S model - thanks
Hey Andrew, do you have any advice for not accidentally desoldering the surrounding caps? I am having a very difficult time keeping them from blowing away when reflowing the ground pad solder.
You do excellent work on electronics. What do you think of xbox 360 E18/ 0102 red ring. I've took it apart dozens of times also tried the "heat gun solution" I've tried everything except swapping the xclamps for screws. I have an xbox one and a xbox 360 that works. This one is just a project that would be cool to resurrect a xbox 360 from the dead. Any tech advice would be useful. Please.
Hey Andrew, i wanted to ask if your going to do any work on Xbox one originals, with the problem of turning off then less than 10 seconds later it turns right back off. Any places you think would be good to check would be great help! Thanks! P.S. The power supply/block has been replaced but the same issue persists.
Hi paul love the video and really helped me alot in successful replaceing the chip on my first xbox yesterday one question for you mate what microscope camera and lights are you using because you have great quality compared to my microscope camera witch is 1080p I think I'm lacking in light to be honest
hola amigo yo tengo el mismo problema me puede ayudar que HDMI Retimer IC debo cambiar alguna serie en especifio , y que liquido utiliza para remover y que vuelva pegarse el HDMI Retimer IC, gracias por la ayuda amigo
i've replaced they ic but still getting no signal, the hdmi was replaced by another technician, could it be a bad hdmi swap or a faulty ic again, even though it was brand new
Where would one get a HDMI chip? May sons Xbox one x is having the no signal issue but there is sound we can hear through the optic plug.
Both coil changed hdmi port changed and hdmi ic changed but there is no display on my xbox one s evry thing is instaaled perfectly .my xbox showing optical light on backside and remote also connecting but no display .any slution ?
Hi thanks for uploading such great clear videos. My Xbox one s has recently black screened, after a hard reset the screen comes on in low Res but flicks on and off and then when try playing something it goes blank again, in your experience is this the HDMI IC control chips fault? And do you also have a website repair shop I am UK
Hi Andrew,I need that little ceramic capacitor by C50 next to the retimer chip? Can I get one of these from you? Can't find one anywhere,and I don't have a extra board to get it off of,It's on a Xbox One X motherboard.Please Reply,And Thank You for any help.Great video's to.
So recently I came across 2 xbox one s consoles that had no display output, I verified proper boot/functionality via optical sound, I replaced the port and retimer on each n still have no pic, have done a few of these and the good old scorpio 158 retimers with no problems, the rsbt 40 pin for sure that Im using, what else is there, does that grey pxd 821 chip ever cause this? I dont know else to look at, thx Paul and/or fellow techs in advance for any help
hi there, what sort of heat gun are you using to remove the chip? I have a variable temp setting Bosch paint stripper type heat gun but unsure what heat is required as don't want to fry the whole board. you make it look so damn easy lol
Just fixed my Xbox one s by accident, I was watching this as background noise and heard Andrew mention pushing down on the IC chip, which I haven't tried yet soi did, after doing that the console booted!
You know that won't last right?
Hey Andrew I can't find retimer IC chip for xbox one s, can you please tell me. Where to find it or if you have it with you can you ship it to Pakistan? Waiting for your kind response
hi Andrew i have an xbox one and i get no out put signal to the tv and before i seen your videos i formatted the hd can you give me some light pls
Hello Andrew Paul, I have an Xbox One S that when turned on, does not show any picture or sound, just no signal at all. Another tech person on RUclips posted a video where Xbox systems that were going through the same issue(black screen) could have them resolved by replacing the hard drive only, now I'm skeptical whether my Xbox One S has a failed retimer or just something that may do with the hard drive like in that tech persons video. Do you have any advice or suggestions?
Is hot air temp 490C or 490F? I can't get my broken 75dp159 removed even by using 480C.
thanks a lot for this valuable information
Hi man, how are you, I follow all your videos and I love them, thanks for sharing your experience. I would like to ask you a question, if there is the possibility that you would share an information or make a video of the components that surround the tdp158 since I bought an xbox one x with the same problem but it is seen that they used a lot of air and flew the resistors and capacitors that surround. the missing components are c17, c18, c20, c50, c43, c44, c45, c56. It would be very helpful if you shared it.
I apologize for my English. I am from Argentina. thank you. I hope you can help me.
Very thanks you you save my life
Hello i accidentally blew away one tiny chip next to where it says "C8C12 " after i replaced the ic.and hi port still no display , device turns on and stays on like.normal.but no signal? Hdmi port is 100% perfect maybe the ic is bad or its not mounted right ? But i heard if i did the ic wrong it wont even boot up?
Just had my first one of these in. Port was damaged (many pins loose and touching). Moved the HDMI IN port over to the OUT position. All continuity checks are okay. Just ordered my first SN75DP159
What temp where you set at for your air gun?
Nice work man 😁
I have this problem with an original XBOX One does that mean it's dead as there's no retimer to replace?
What's a thermo clean off? Running it througha ultraslonic cleaner?
Hello i accidentally blew away one tiny chip next to where it says "C8C12 " right at 14:26 ( the chip is actually circled by the flux lol ) after i replaced the ic.and hdmi port still no display , device turns on and stays on like.normal.but no signal? Hdmi port is 100% perfect maybe the ic is bad or its not mounted right ? But i heard if i did the ic wrong it wont even boot up?
Mouser carries - SN75DP159RGZR. Or is one needed from an xbox donor?
I do this on the side, and purchase a few broken systems a month. I have a few consoles, mainly one with a slightly puzzling issue. It powers on, and boots the HDD, but says no signal for about 5 minutes. Then it goes to a black screen for another 5-10 minutes, then goes to a green loading screen, and never comes off of that. So thinking it might be a HDD issue, I pulled the drive and hooked up to my PC to test its readability, and it seemed to be just fine. The other odd thing this machine is doing is I am not able to access the troubleshoot menu by holding the eject and link up button and powering on. It wont work at all. I did it on a working machine just fine. So my assumption is that I have a mother board failure somewhere. and as the board heats up roughly 10-15 minutes in, it makes somewhat of a connection through expansion of the joints. There is no visible damage to any chips, and I honestly am new to reflowing chips and still learning, but I want to fix this board or problem, just cant find anyone who has gone through it. Possibly the disc drive could be a culprit? I have not tested that yet, but in my working machine, the cd drive powers up immediately, in the broken machine, it doesn't make a sound. If your still reading comments, please give me you best guess sir, love your videos.
By the way, Happy new year Andrew.
Happy new year to you too :-)
Can you tell me please the value of C8C12 capacitor it go fly and lost :(
My xbox turn on only 480%640 resulution
Not working 1920%1080 and 720 please help me
Hi what kind of heat gun do you use?
Hmmmmmm. How can you test the retimer to see if it's bad besides replacing it? I've swapped Hdmi ports on a Xbox one s both had no physical damage. The filters tested fine and all points.
This is my question too
After i changed this ic HDMI I have very slow boot (about 1 minute) in Green video...Why?
Thanks man, great vid. Do you have a stand by voltage diagram for the xbox one s? or is it the same as the xbox one?
The board is very different between the two - I don't have a diagram for the S currently.
Good job Sir
How do I know whether it’s the reset timer or the HD if I don’t a replacement HD? Also, could you write the list of tools you used for this? Thank you.
You can plug hard drive into a pc, usb external reader and see if you have partitions and if it can be read. Sometimes you can go into safe mode and try a lower resolution to see if it works too...
My do it same thing when i tried to start up my Xbox one s to my tv won't show not picture😮
From where I will found this part retimer please answer my and what this put it on board when you heat the IC oil ?
farnell . com
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Very entertaining. I replaced the ic. It turned on then went black screen again after i restarted. Is the IC damaged?
Well done mate. Find your video's so informative...
Excellent video! I get a display for about 10-20 seconds before HDMI loses the signal and then I can't seem to get it back on unless I power down, unplug and try again only to have it happen again. Would anyone happen to know what would cause this issue?
Hey Andrew do you often run into faulty new retimer ic's?
Is the Xbox HDMI Retimer a 40-WQFN or 48-VQFN,??. Mouser here in the UK have various types not sure which one is needed?
40-WQFN it is brother
Followed this perfectly replaced ic chip hdmi port in great condition so dont need to touch port and still no picture any ideas andrew? Thanks for making these videos and the effort you put in stuggling to do this and film it under the scope and working at arms lengh thank you
Check the EMI filters for continuity across top to bottom. If any show open line, or there's continuity across left to right, replace the affected filter. Also check for any shorts underneath the IC with a DMM testing adjacent pins. It's also worth running around the edge of the IC with an iron, flux and solder to tidy the fillets up and make sure there's a good connection between pin and pad - had them when they've looked good visually, but still not worked. Gone around the edges with the iron and all has been absolutely fine afterwards so always make a point to do that these days.
Andrew or others. Is there a specific product number that includes the IC with legs attached? It seems all the chips don't have external legs.
This IC doesn't have legs - the things which look like legs are merely the pads beneath the IC which extend beyond the edge of the chip.
Hi Andrew,
First, I want to thank you for your videos. Very informative and detailed explanations of what you are doing.
Second, I am also passionate about electronics. So, because of that, all my friends ask me to repair their damaged devices. Right now I have an Xbox One S which seams to have problems with HDMI. I've watched (I think) all your videos about this matter, but still I have some questions.
If you are so king and can help me, please, can you tell me this:
1. If there is continuity from the Retimer IC , till the HDMI pins (), that means the Retimer is the problem and needs to be changed? If yes, where can I find it?
- HDMI connector is clean and not physically damaged.
- Retimer is 75DP159 (so it seams to be the marking on it).
2. Before exploring more into changing the Retimer, I wonder, what is the U7B1 component in the vicinity of EMI filters? It is important for the HDMI OUT functioning?
Because, I looked at it and it looked like it sustained some heat in the middle. So, I measure it with the Ohmmeter, both on Ohms and on Diode settings and it read "Infinite" both ways between the pin2 and the other two. Being a SOT23 kind of capsule, pin2 it would be the upper pin on the right side (the side with the 2 pins). But, even if it looks like it was heated, marking is well visible. It writes B1, and after is the figure 8, rotated 90 degrees. If it would be this the problem, it would be easier to change (than the Retimer). But also I don't know what it is and from where to take it.
Sorry for the long post, it would have been shorter if, you know: one picture worth a thousand words. :)
Thank you.
Have a great day,
George
I’ve opened up a project Scorpio Xbox one x and the retimer looks to be a tdp159 instead of tdp158. Can I use a 158 and if not, do you know where I can source a legitimate 159 please? Thanks alot
Have you tried the 158? I have the 158 lying around here from Xbox One S repair, and I am awaiting Xbox One X for repairs, and I was wondering the same.
Hello, I have a question, I really like the repairs videos on your YT channel. I have Xbox one s, unfortunately there is a problem with image display, HDMI port looks good, connections on the motherboard too (even gave flux and improved for certainty) unfortunately the image on the console in 720p and 1080p appears and disappears and sometimes appear green dots such disturbances, in the resolution of 640 everything is ok, the picture does not flash, there are also no green dots (such noise), do the symptoms indicate a retimer? or maybe something else, Connecting a second functional console to the TV everything is ok. I would like to ask for a suggestion,
I'm sorry for my English I used a Google translator
Definitely a retimer issue from your description.
Thank you very much, I will order and I will tell you if the problem has been solved
Andrew Paul its my problem ruclips.net/video/4Uli8JMXghA/видео.html
Have you had this happen to many Xbox one X's? Black screen occurred 4 days ago. I tried multiple HDMI cords and different TV's and hard resets. Any suggestions.
It'll likely be the same thing mate. These Retimer ICs appear to be just as weak as the Encoders on PS4.
you are great!!
hello, which chip should I choose for Xbox One S 1 tb? QFN48 (6*6mm) or QFN40 (5*5mm)? Thank you in advance for your answer.
QFN40 pins
I have an xbox one in the shop which I believe to be the encoder. As I have replaced port and check choaks ect. Any idea where I can source the encoder for older xbox one?
It was incorporated into Southbridge on the originals.
Andrew Paul That would explain things. Didn't mind seeing any encoder ic lol
Mine Xbox one s boots up without any green screen and is showing just a black screen...i bought the console one month ago....please help me😭
What if it works with one tv but not another?
I'm trying to do this repair, but I'm having problems making the ic stick to the board, its driving me crazy 😬
can i use this model - TEXAS INSTRUMENTS SN75DP159RSBT DP++ TO HDMI RETIMER, 6GBPS, WQFN-40
Yes that's the one.
Texas Instruments has 3 different part numbers for the SN75DP159 IC. I'm assuming its the 40 pin chip, but I'd hate to order it and find out I was wrong.
You need the SN75DP159RSBT version.
Great! Thanks!
Hi Andrew, can I ask what flux do you recommend for this application?
Hi, I use Amtech NC-559-V2-TF.
@@AndrewPaul Thank you!
Hi Andrew. Great job as always. I've got a question. Bought Xbox one s on ebay. Displays image fine in 720p resolution, but when I switch to 1080p then red lines and dots appear on TV, and image is glitching sometimes. HDMI port visually looks good. You think it is HDMI retimer issue or hdmi port. Best Regards and all the best in New Year!!
Sounds like a retimer to me.
Thanks a lot. Ordering spare wright now!!!! Best regards!!!
I have replaced retimer and it works!!! Thanks again!!!
Excellent news! :-)
Where can I get these chips
Hi Andrew, I trust all is well. I have an Xbox one S that has the no signal / no display issue, there is also no beep when powering on the console. The fan and the white light turns on. I was wondering if it could be the retimer HDMI retimer chip that is the issue.
It could be a power issue
Hi Andrew, on the right hand EMI filter, the second pin on the bottom of the chip seems to be getting continuity to ground. Could this be the reason for no signal do you think?
Could well be - the middle third pins are connected to ground, the others should not be. If that's the case, remove the filter and see if the same pad on Retimer IC side of the circuit is showing continuity to ground. If it is, it's likely a defect on the Retimer IC and it should be replaced. If not, replace the EMI filter with a new part (or in a rush bridge the points out with wire if you wish) and see if it alleviates the issue. Good luck.
@@AndrewPaul thanks! I replaced both filters and the retimer today and still nothing. My only other thought is the hdmi port but it's looks fine. Starting to run out of hope for this console.
@@AndrewPaul thanks! I replaced both filters and the retimer today and still nothing. My only other thought is the hdmi port but it's looks fine. Starting to run out of hope for this console.
If you try and boot the machine to the troubleshooter menu, do you hear the second power up tone after around 10-15 seconds at all?
@@AndrewPaul yes
Did you tin the pads and bottom of the new ic before using hot air to solder it to the board?
Good question, not that he's replied so far...
Just the pads on the motherboard.
@@AndrewPaul Thanks for the prompt reply...
Ps, is the IC you put in the description valid for the S and X versions? Sorry for all the Q's, should've asked them all together really..
Hi, no the X uses a TI TDP158 Re-driver IC which isn't interchangeable.
good job
Any link or information for dealing with that "Something went wrong" error message?
What is the 'E' code at the bottom of the screen which you're getting?
GOOD VIDEO, I HAVE SAME PROBLEM SENT TO FIX LET U KNOW WHAT GOES ON THEN I WILL ASK FOR HELP THANKS
how did u get on with ur xbox m8?
I tried the retimer on a X and S and I can not get them to budge! They will not move even after 15 minutes
Can your hot air gun get up over 400 C? It may help to use a larger nozzle so that the board around the chip all heats up at the same time. I sometimes use some low melt solder paste to try to bring the melting point down, but it often doesn't reach the ground pad underneath the chip.
Libri Lector p
does the fat xbox one have a hdmi Retimer IC
So what made you sure right away that the retimer IC was at fault and not something else like the APU or SB?
Going straight for an APU or a Southbridge is taking a sledgehammer to crack a nut. As some RUclips tech's would claim it'd be engaging 'brain-free' repair mode - just baking whatever processor you can find and crossing your fingers.
With this type of problem you need to apply some logical thinking - the console powers on, fans spin, controllers connect etc - the only seeming issue is we can't see / hear any AV output. If the port looks fine, EMI filters test fine and there's a HDMI Retimer IC there which is responsible for muxing audio / video, scaling etc then it's logical to see that as the issue rather than going straight for the main system BGAs.
Andrew Paul That makes sense, thanks for explaining!
My Xbox one s crashes when playing video in RUclips the audio glitches then the image freezes. Sometimes it starts playing again but the audio and video will be out of sink and the video will keep skipping. When the Xbox freezes it makes the power down tone then the light flashes a cupple of times. It also turns it's self off randomly I tried changing the hard drive but it still dose the same thing. Any suggestions on what to try would be much appreciated. I can't seem to find anything on this problem.
Do a thermal paste change in the first instance and clear out any dust especially any on the board or in the heatsink / fan assemblies then go from there. Use a quality paste like Arctic MX4 - the stock stuff is absolute crap and dries to a crisp very quickly.
Any methods as I've tried to put retimer ic to the board, I'm losing my head as cannot get it to stick to board keeps falling off
Drop the air flow bud. If it's too high then it'll skate off in all directions ha ha! Pop some flux paste down and heat it then allow it to go tacky. Then site the chip and flow it into position with a lower airflow setting on the wand. The tacky flux should help hold the IC into position whilst the board and solder gets up to temperature by which time hopefully it'll flow nicely into place.
My One S has stopped giving me a signal. I can however boot it in to low resolution mode but it reverts to no signal if I try to switch resolution to 720/1080. Does that sound more like a port issue or chip issue?
If you've got any form of image, then providing that there is no physical damage then the port is good. This will be an IC issue 100%.
Andrew Paul thank you for the reply. If it helps further even in low resolution mode, the image cuts out every couple of seconds.
No problem - this is definitely an IC issue.
Andrew Paul I wish I asked this question before buying a port replacement now 😅 I’m not sure if I missed it in your video but does the chip have to placed on a specific way or does it not matter which way round it’s placed?
It has to be placed in its correct orientation. There is a dot on the chip which denotes the location of pin 1. There is a matching dot on the motherboard. These need to be aligned to ensure correct placement.
please i need a lil help..my display comes on the problem i have is it does not work when i put it to 1080p..when on 720p it comes but the display has some tinny dots on it..plz help
That'll be the retimer IC as per this video. Replace it for a new chip and it'll be good as new.
Please where can I get the IC to buy and the exact model number.. Thanks a link will be nice
my bro i have used xbox one s and i want to know why Thais problem happened
I've got a one s that went black reset and it boots in 640x480 720/1080 screen goes blank is it the ic fault ? Screen and sound glitches on it in 640x480 aswel?
What type of flux paste should be used
AMTECH NC-559-V2-TF ... for all SMD components ...
Where do you go if it's not the hdmi and not the ic?
do you still do repairs
You are pro good work I love you😍
My Xbox One S only boots in 640p and only on one monitor. Any idea if my issue is caused by this?
Absolutely, yes it can. Try an AV reset in the first instance, as well as a different cable if you have one available. After that, yes it's very possibly this chip that is giving you your issue.
@@AndrewPaul I tried 3 monitors, 3 TVs ad like 6 HDMI cables. Only one would get a 640p signal. That one would also get a 720p signal. If I try 1080p on it it would blink for a second, then show some artifacting, then go black.
And by AV reset I assume you mean the "hold power and eject for 10 seconds" thing?
Hello everyone. Could you tell me what is a substance at 14:06? Rosin?
It is indeed flux. I use Amtech NC-559-V2-TF.
Andrew Paul Thank you for answer.