Submersible Pump installation
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Submersible pump installation and repair. Do-it-yourself for a shallow (less than 75ft) well. Need some moderate upper body strength. A helper is nice to pull the pipe across the lawn as you pull it up. I just stopped twice and straightened it out. Obviously couldn't video an pull pipe. (and not twist ties but zip ties) Special thanks to Robert English (who used to put in wells) for info and encouragement.
So this is pretty obvious! To put it back you leave the galvanized pipe attached! You feed the pipe back down the well, being careful not to twist the rope up. Make sure you know approximately where the hole the pitless fits into is located on the side of the pipe. The spring on the pitless will help push it against the side. MAke sure the stainless cable and the rope are within grabbing distance as you lower the metal pipe into the well. Put the metal pipe into the well up to the black tape mark. Then move it around until you feel the pitless go into the fitting in the side. Move the galvanized metal pipe around to make sure the pitless is secure. Fasten the rope to your pipe wrench or large screwdriver...just in case, and lay it over the 4" pipe hole. Carefully unscrew the pipe from the pitless, hook up the electrcity, wrap wires with tape, pour 1/2 bleach down the well, and seal it! Turn on the breaker! DONE!
Great video Gary, really useful. May I just add that - when some folk don't understand, rather than ask for help, they make assumptions or throw insults. Dont take the negative comments personally, have empathy for these simpletons and there is only so much you can do to help
Nice information, thank you.
Make it easier if you replace the black pipe with WellHose.
No corrosion and easier to work with.
Thanks Billy, never heard of it. I got a stainless steel one, they finally have them locally.
Small bleed in current at the pump will electrolyze copper out of the brass, leaving seemingly random corrosion, erosion or whatever you choose to call it, always looks like new metal, just gone. Leaking current, voltage and pattern of micro circulation at the nipple are three elements that determine what you will see. As predictable as lightening.
I really liked the video...I am installing a new deep well pump and I seen a lot of useful information " one can if they are looking " .Thanks for the video...helped me actually see what I need.
Thanks Mark, appreciate the input. I was going to stop comments after getting three Bozos in the last week telling me what a moron I was. Some people just trolling. Let me know if you need some more help!
The torque stopper ? never heard of that but does it help ? whats the actual reason for using it ? I wasn't going to go pitless, I was just going to have the rope hold the pump up along with the hose. Any help would or ideas would be helpful. I also heard it helps having help installing and pulling one due to the hose and weight.
MARKK300691 Contact me via email.
MARKK300691 The torque stopper absorbs rotational force when the pump first kicks on, to relieve stress on the pipe. The pipe is usually some kind of plastic (plack or white pvc) and can develop cracks over time. Think of it like a motor mount on a car, which absorbs twisting and vibration.
Awesome...thanks
Not to worry, I already repaired the Well piece that was broken at the top and hooked up the jet pump. I am OK with it, and it seemed the submersible was more and more money. The pump is just part of the expense, then you had wire and who knows what else as I did not understand half of what was being said. I got a pump, black plastic pipe with a foot valve and a tank. Add electricity and you got water.
brass and stainless together and a water mixture creates what we called galvanic corrosion
Nice tip on the plastic ties instead of the tape
I have Installed pumps for years and if you have watched this video be careful if you have this type of pitless. I have seen a few people missing fingers and hands do to the pump dropping once you pull on the cable, never wrap it around your hand. Also a rope will rot up over the years and ravel around the pump same with galvanized cable rusts up and falls, if it is in a liner you only have a 1/4 inch clearance around the pump and you will probably have to drill a new well. Torque arresters are great if installed properly. if you push it out to far it will go down fine but then when you try to take it back out its like a Chinese yoyo and will pull your liner as well and your well will more than likely bridge and you will not get the liner back in. Also if its 100 degrees out the poly if thin walled will stretch and break if not removed quick enough. I guess figure what a new well will cost you to have drilled and hooked up before you decide to do this kind of a install with poly pipe. Zip ties can cut into the wire. If you absolutely have to do this style of pump installation use black electrical tape to tape the wire to the pipe, also tape around the brass fitting to prevent the electrolysis which is very common in wells. No rope or galvanized cable, stainless steel would work or nothing at all is fine. Leave the torque arrester adjusted so sides do not rub in the pipe so you can pull it back out. Every year I get 5 or 6 calls to try and fish this type of install back out. about half are salvageable. Good Luck
All Seasons Pump Service Inc I actually had my pump float up and the pitless almost hit me when it broke lose. Never had a problem with it dropping, but I do us a wrench handle to break it loose. As far as black tape I've had two instances of the tape being lodged in the pump intake. The poly ropes in the well last forever, as they are not exposed to the sun. Never even seen one come close to breaking. Don't use Poly pipe? " before you decide to do this kind of a install with poly pipe" What else? It is all they use around here, label me confused. I've done all kinds of pump pulls for myself and friends, and never had a problem.
For all you guys living in a more moderate climate, you likely do not have a Pitless Adapter in your well. Pitless Adapters are needed to keep your water line below the frost line so it won't freeze. Most likely the water line just comes out the top of the well, thru a few elbows and back into the ground and to your house. Just disconnect the water pipe. loosen the water seal and pull out the pipe.
This is a newer pump with newer installation Ive rarely seen a pump with a saftey wire, It would have been nice if you would have shown the removal of the old pump, what few people know is that a 3 wire pump is seldom changed and can be 40 years old. the biggest trick is getting a pump out especially after its covered in silt and 40 years of deposits, and in a 4" pipe has a 37/8 inch pump in it, theres no clearance, so getting a pump out is hard to damn near impossible and sometimes even breaks off. they always show how easy it is or not at all, usually just to break it free requires back breaking effort.
Yea, I'm sure it could be a problem with old pumps. But I've now done this over 10 times for myself and other people. So far I've not had any problem getting the old pump out. A few were 200ft. If it was deeper I suggested a Pro! I doubt any submersible would last 40 years anyway.
this will was pretty helpful .
Watched your vid - some good points/ some misleading - been installing for 10 yrs, electrician for 15yrs, the issue was correctly ID'd electrolysis & very poor quality brass fitting - remedy is to create an insulator from the water - high quality electrical tape, not found at hardware stores rather @ electrical wholesalers, wrapped @ the conn pt of the 2 dif metals. Also if you use the GOOD black tape it will stay attached, as for those nylon tie wraps will become brittle & break off which then can cause the wire to rub. That pitless is a "snappy"- common & a pain in the A**. Like other viewers commented be very cautious gravity works FAST & the weakest link always breaks or bleeds first!
+Brent Eisner Thanks for your input. Yea, I used 3M brand tape and still had problems. Next time I pull it up I'm going stainless. They carry them now. I've now done about a dozen, my neighbors love me....lol Guys around here are marking up the pumps %100, which is a rip off.
I am a professional well pump installer of 12 years experience in the state of Illinois. Stainless steel pipe is verry verry rare people get mixed up between stainless steel and galvanized steel pipe. I would have used brass or schedule 80 pvc. Not galvanized. I think you used brass. Correct? Anyways good job. But viewers beware there are many different types of pitiless adapters. Some have 11/4" receiver some could be set mutch deeper than the pump in this vidio. And may have a larger drop pipe which will be full of water and will be verry heavy. If you have 260' of 1"pipe.thats 1gallon water every 6' of pipe at 8.5 lbs.per gallon of water.+ the weight of the pipe wire pump. Its a lot of weight. Dont drop the pump. The well could be 350' deep.90' deeper than the pump setting. No fun to fish that out of there.
Thanks for those thoughtful comments! Since my fitting had a hole in it the water emptied out of the pipe as I pulled it up. I've had it out a few times, and it is much heavier full, and mine was only about 100ft..
A company that was here recently to repair the wire to the pump inside the well because a builder installed it wrong told me the builder used wire ties and no torque stopper. He said all the wire ties slipped down and the wires chaffed against the steel 6 in pipe and shorted. They will loosen with expansion and contraction. He said you have to use a quality electrical tape every 4 ft. Plus he put some kind of object that slides down the pipe and keeps it centered inside.
You definitely need a torque stopper. As far as the wire ties, I heard it can be either tape or zip ties. Actual metal wire ties i would not use. I went with the plastic zip ties after I found some tape in the pump intake. I've had the well out again, to check the corrosion of the fittings, and the ties were all fine.
To change the pitless on the pipe to the pump you just put a new one on on the end, after you remove it form the ground?. To replace the pitless fitting on the side of the 4" PVC pipe you have to dig it down to it on the outside of the pipe. It is quite a ways down.
Nice video, Gary. Have you considered WellHose DIY Drop Pipe? It is totally non-corrosive so no galvanic corrosion like you had. Also much easier to install and retrieve the pump than polypipe.
I have seen that in brass fittings before actually any metal fitting. I use to have a large boat. Anytime you place an electrical anything in water you have electrolysis and that is what occurred with your fitting. You can avoid it by throwing some pennys in there or hang a anode (Zinc) so it deteriorates rather than your expensive equipment., sold by boating supplies or on amazon too, its cheap insurance, I can't see it any different then when a boat gets it. It occurs usually at the dock and everyone's boats are connected via land electric. Water is a great conductor. I'm putting in my pump today and glad I saw this because I had forgot completely about this and it can and will occur especially if any leaks whatsoever. It just keeps pinging off those metal parts making dents n holes, I think my major question to you is why are you having to pull this pump so many times? I want a one time thing and not mess with it for 10 plus years. Also the pump I have does not have this pittless thing . There is two eyelet type as part of the top of the pump to tie a rope or cable to
+Ozark Mountain Girl : Had to pull the pump becasue I had sand in the well, then put it in a new well, then the pump went up, then the fitting leaked. I've got a stainless fitting now, which I'll use next time I pull it out.
Nice video. But one thing. I would have used a stainless steel adapter (not brass like the one you used) to prevent corrosion. You may run into the same corrosion as you had before.
Yep, but they were unavailable locally, at the time. Now they have them.
FYI Update: Apparently the local pump/well installers in this area don't use torque arrestors anymore on 4" wells. They also carry stainless steel fittings now, which I used in my latest replacement (not mine, it is fine).
There have been many snide comments (deleted) about only using stainless steel and not a brass fitting. I've talked to 2 well installers and 2 local suppliers, and brass is all they use around here. Stainless is not in normal stock at the plumbing suppliers, and as I needed one immediately this was not an option.
Cathodic Protection will prevent the fitting from corrosion.
Make sure to get the proper voltage as well.
Looks like wear marks on the threads, maybe from sediments?
The wear on the brass barbed fitting looks like galvanic corrosion. My assumption is that the barbed fitting is a cheap brass alloy making it much less noble than the stainless steel pump. Aka the brass became the sacrificial anode! Better brass, or stainless may remediate the issue. Perhaps your ground wire is broke, check your grounding.
Thanks Bill, I never thought about checking the ground. I am however going to wait for warmer weather.
Galvanic corrosion for sure. You should get you electrical figured out quickly or your pump is going drop right off the end of the pipe.
Jason Phillips
I checked the electrical connection to the top of the well, and it was fine. To check the pump end I need to pull it,and cut the wire. Maybe there is a nick under water I can't see? There is rope tied to the pump too.
Hi, I would like to change a pump in the well. Would you please give me the instruction to remove the pitless? The pitless in my well looks similar to yours.
From the video, attach the T-bar to the pitless. Then pull the galvanized cable to release the spring on the pitless?
And how to put the pitless back to the well??
Thanks
Sounds like (and looks like) you had an electrolysis issue... a reaction between the two types of dissimilar metals. Not sure of a solution other than making sure the fittings are the same type of metal... brass with brass or stainless with stainless...
Gerry Matheson I think you might be right Gerry. I did another install about a month ago and bought an extra stainless steel fitting. I'll probably pull the pump this fall and put it in.
+Gary McCready I commented before seeing this, buy a anode (Zinc) so it deteriorates rather than your expensive equipment., tie it on to a cable and let it drop, it will then be attracted to this instead of your pump and fittings. We used them on boats and attached them to the outside hull of the boat and I even had one on my trim tab it takes care of that.
What does the nylon rope attach to at the top of the well to prevent it from falling down into the well?
But, great video!
Sorry this took so long....I got so many spammers and haters I turned off comments. The rope it attached to the cable which is attached to the pitless. I have also gotten an extra piece of rope and tied it to a concrete block, so I made sure it didn't go down the well, as I removed the pitless.
Mine is 1 1/2".
I didn't read all the comments but didn't see anyone mention ph as an issue if your ph is low say 6 or less it will eat up copper or brass just like these fittings you have . you also would expect pin holes in your house copper if you have copper pipes? also bluish green stains showing up where water drips unless you have a water neutralizer for your house? and yes todays cheap import crap fitting rot out much sooner then the fitting of yester year made in the usa
My pH isn't bad, I think it is just electrolysis from only slightly acidic water. Lots of pine trees around here.
Thanks brother, What size pipe is your "puller" ? My well company has charged me $500, $1000 and the last time $1,500, Done w/that !!!! Sorry just read 1 1/2" on dia. sounds big 'tho.
You are welcome, Steven. Yep 1 1/2" galvanized, guess you could always look down your well and see if you can tell if yours is smaller.
thanks for the laugh," I was a dentist". LMAO
I got double vision and was forced to retire...Myasthenia Gravis SUCKS. Life goes on, however.
I think there's a bit of electrolyis of the brass fitting going on there or else erosion due to cavitation of the pump [ a 'expansion vessel' fitted to a tee some where on your system might help the pump if not already fitted..]...... maybe a stainless fitting may be required to sort out your problem...McMaster Carr .com website is a great source for all that stuff ...
please were do attach the safety cable
Sorry, didn't see this before? The cable attaches to the rope and also to the pitless. The rope attaches through a hole at the top of the pump. The cable came already attached to the pitless.
The rope it attached to the cable which is attached to the pitless. I have also gotten an extra piece of rope and tied it to a concrete block, so I made sure it didn't go down the well, as I removed the pitless.
What size diameter is the t-handle..?
Is that Poly Pipe?
Yes! Like used in irrigation.
OMG, I am so tired of watching movies that show the same thing. I got a jet above ground pump and would like to replace it with a submersible. Question, does the pump itself go all the way down into the water or just a few feet from the top with a pipe extending down from there. I ask because every video shows this tee pipe to remove something I assume the pump as it only reaches down like 5 feet. If the pump itself goes all the was down into the water, then surely you MUST know the depth of the casing so you do not go down past it or do you go past it? That is what I need to know as I have no previous submersible pump to figure this out by extracting it. Is it possible someone out there other than me wants to replace a jet pump with a submersible?
Dude, if you really should actually watch and pay attention. Look at 2:24 on my vid and you will see the pipe attached to the top of the pump, it is 100ft long. The top of the pipe has a Pitless, which is about 3 ft under ground. If you can't figure it out, then perhaps you should just hire someone.
Maybe your right, I will just stick to the Jet pump it seems a lot easier to understand.
if you want to replace it by a submersible one you just have to cut out the foot-valve and fit the pump right there, if you want to be sure you can mesure the well depth with a 200' tape and place the pump 20' over the bottom