I’ve just watched this. That’s where I’ve went wrong with my top wishbones. I couldn’t remember where I read the length wasn’t correct so I added 12mm to the length of mine. What I’ve ended up with is a car that will go to about 2 degrees negative camber max. I’m going to wait until it’s on its wheels before I decide if I need to remake them to book length. I was also worried about the gauge of steel however it appears Westfield, caterham and locost all share similar designs.
Pot holes and kerbing ... wishbones should collapse or deform rather than change the shape of your chassis .. strong HD wishbones mean at some point you'll be rebuilding your front end but hey I could be talking bs
Plans assume a 13" wheel and tire package. Using a 15" setup can make the pickup points need to move up. I totally overbuilt my lower rear control arms.
Was waiting for you to just rebuild those arms, great move. Got to remember the book is starting to get old now too. Maybe it's getting time to write the third edition of the book. Are you up for the challenge?
Regarding lower ball joint, is there the possibility the arm is upside down, the ball joint would then attach correctly under the plate? Deffo no expert but looks like a possibility.
No time travel involved. Best of luck getting it up and running. Would love to come and try the ardeer autotest some time, doing a bit of autotesting in the daily driver Mx5 with Hartlepool and District Motor Club.
@@MalcolmSelby always welcome! Also on the earlier point, episode 85 actually covered the lower arm, not the one I am working on now! Have a look back and the answer is there!
Great to see progress on the Locost!
Surely armed and dangerous? 🤣 glad you figured out the cause of the squint 😀 I would imagine that the handling will improve.
Well done for figuring it out.
Great work as always, love it lads
Great vid as always !
I’ve just watched this. That’s where I’ve went wrong with my top wishbones. I couldn’t remember where I read the length wasn’t correct so I added 12mm to the length of mine. What I’ve ended up with is a car that will go to about 2 degrees negative camber max. I’m going to wait until it’s on its wheels before I decide if I need to remake them to book length. I was also worried about the gauge of steel however it appears Westfield, caterham and locost all share similar designs.
Pot holes and kerbing ... wishbones should collapse or deform rather than change the shape of your chassis .. strong HD wishbones mean at some point you'll be rebuilding your front end but hey I could be talking bs
I remember the Momentous day that you threw the Big Bible of Bollocks in the bin
Plans assume a 13" wheel and tire package. Using a 15" setup can make the pickup points need to move up. I totally overbuilt my lower rear control arms.
Was waiting for you to just rebuild those arms, great move. Got to remember the book is starting to get old now too. Maybe it's getting time to write the third edition of the book. Are you up for the challenge?
Bloody hell, building it is a challenge as is!!! LoL
Regarding lower ball joint, is there the possibility the arm is upside down, the ball joint would then attach correctly under the plate?
Deffo no expert but looks like a possibility.
It's almost like you've seen my next episode! (Spoilers.. no)
No time travel involved. Best of luck getting it up and running.
Would love to come and try the ardeer autotest some time, doing a bit of autotesting in the daily driver Mx5 with Hartlepool and District Motor Club.
@@MalcolmSelby always welcome! Also on the earlier point, episode 85 actually covered the lower arm, not the one I am working on now! Have a look back and the answer is there!