Hey all - looks like the 4WD Systems website couldn't handle the traffic last night - but it's up and running now! If you tried to purchase last night and couldn't - head to www.4wdsystems.com.au/index.php?id=180 now and use the 20% discount code 'ACTIONLKA19' - or call them on (08) 8369 0033
Update 25th August - Finally got the last problem sorted and the system and payment gateway is now working properly - a huge thanks to my IT guy who has been working on all the issues for 10 days most days and most nights to get things stabilised. We've all been working 15+ hours a day to keep up with it !
We call these types of lockers lunch box lockers in the states. They are really only designed for very light duty use. The sharp edges on the teeth wear out fairly quickly and they start slipping and ratcheting. Most new guys in my jeep club go the route when they first start. But after they have went through 3 of them, they arent any cheaper than a Detroit, which also unlocks when cornering. Both the truetrack and the actual locker unlock. I started out with lock rights, the went to spools, then Detroit's, and finally arbs. For a manual install it and forget it, nothing works better that a Detroit. They will outlast your axles, period. Foe a push button system, arb with braided air lines is the best I have found. I base all of my statements off of 40 years of trail and breakage. There is nothing wrong with lunchbox lockers, just realize they are very light duty going in. Good luck.
I have to disagree with how he states that a lunchbox locker works. Yes the teeth are engaged by default and they will disengage when turning but only under specific conditions. The housing of a lunch box locker where the diff pin goes through is designed with an elongated hole. The reason for this hole design is so that when the pinion turns the carrier the pin that goes through both the carrier and the locker housing gets forced to the side of the locker housing oblongated hole which acts like a ramp forcing the two halves of the locker outward, this applies pressure to ensure the teeth stay engaged. So if you are in 4wd and there is torque applied to the front driveshaft the locker will not disengage until the load/torque is removed. If you have any type of traction on the front wheels while in 4wd they will not automatically disengage when you turn. Depending on whether your 4wd is a manual or automatic transmission will determine how to properly drive your vehicle in 4wd with lunch box lockers. There is a learning curve, especially if auto lockers are in the rear axle. For example if your vehicle is a manual transmission and need to make a sharp turn going uphill when you are sitting a stop light or intersection, to smoothly drive through that corner and give the auto locker the ability to disengage you must first drive straight and build momentum to carry you through the turn then press the clutch and coast through and the locker will unlock. If you try to accelerate through the corner it will create a load on the rear axle and the locker will not disengage and you'll chirp the tires or it will hop through the corner. Load or torque on the differential is needed to apply and no load to disengage. Also if in very slick conditions you may need to ride the brake pedal to add load to the differential to get the locker to engage or to stay engaged.
Raphael Smithwick - just gonna point out the contradiction in your response, you believe them to be durable unless driven too fast and hard? That’s pretty much saying they will NOT last if actually used in the environment they say they were designed to be used in. So NO, they are NOT durable.
Absolutely by far, the best mod to my Dmax. No solenoid, no airlines and it turns like a ripper. My LOKKA has literally saved my car from complete loss during our biggest wet season on record 2yrs ago. Performs faultlessly. Value beyond words
These things are essentially a ratchet in place of your normal diff centre (spider gears). They lock up under power, and force both tyres to run at the same speed as the ring gear, never slower - but if one tyre (the outside tyre) wants to run faster than the ring gear, it ratchets (hence the clack-clack noise) and that one side unlocks. The slower side is still locked to the ring gear. This means shock loading is reduced compared to unlocked diffs, so you should break less halfshafts in theory. In theory...!
@@simontheyers547 It's not a load thing, and my explanation is not a theory. I'm not trying to be rude, just explain that this is how they're engineered. Ok, if you want the facts of how they work: Your diff centre spider gears are replaced by two solid chunks of metal with ratchet sprockets on the outside, that mate into special side gears with similar ratchet sprockets on their inside face. Under no load, they'll ratchet (clack clack clack as one tyre spins faster than the other - or in the opposite direction even). Between these two chunks of metal you have a pin (the "carrier cross pin") that runs right through the thing, in a hole that isn't quite round. As you apply power, the diff carrier pushes on the carrier pin, and the carrier pin slides inside the slightly not round hole it lives in. This then pushes the two halves of the diff centre apart, forcing them into the side gears and locking them (and by extension, the wheels attached to those side gears by halfshafts). If one wheel tries to run faster than the diff housing, that causes the pin that is forcing the two halves apart back into the centre of the not quite round hole because it's not pushing the diff centre as fast as the wheel is turning. This lets the two halves slip back out of engagement with the side gears, and the whole thing unlocks, allowing the faster wheel to ratchet. (Clack clack clack). You can see this demonstrated at 2:12 in the video, where he pushes one side out of engagement with a screwdriver. In that shot you can also see the not-quite-round hole between the two halves (he doesn't have the cross-pin installed at this point, you can see it on the floor on the left). This is why if you try to power around a corner, they'll make crashing, banging, clunking sounds as they lock, unlock, lock and unlock over and over again. Most people try to coast around corners or at the very least, take corners smoothly without excessive power. This is not theory, this is how they're engineered. Trust me, I have built these into diffs. I get how they work.
@@antontaylor4530 Basically it's a mechanical blinding version of a friction plate pack LSD except these lockers come as 2way only hahah. Hate the stock D22 navi LSD coz it was only 1way (triangle and not 'not quite round' hole. Either way I don't know why people can not wrap their heads around the working of it.
@@liamcooper5202 They're actually the opposite of an LSD mechanically and operationally. An LSD is a set of clutches, and it'll slip if one wheel experiences significantly different forces to the other. This means that an LSD will usually slip if one wheel is in the air, making them barely better for offroad use than a basic open diff. They're not designed for offroad use, they're for track, drag and street use. Yes, manufacturers have fitted them to 4wd's. But that was more about marketing and mall crawling than offroading. LSD's aren't "lockers" at all, they're "resistant" differentials. A locker can lock up solid. An LSD can't do that (if it did, it would become a spool at that point, not an LSD). A "locker" is either automatic or selectable. A selectable is a diff, most often open but sometimes carrying an LSD centre. You select when it should act like a spool. An automatic is not a "differential" at all in the traditional sense if you look at the assembled components. It's either locked up like a spool, or it's ratcheting. It never, ever sends power to each wheel proportionally to the distance the wheel is turning - it either sends 100% to both wheels, 100% to one wheel (in low load scenarios) or it is unloaded and there is nothing to send to either wheel. Switching between 100% to one wheel, then 100% to both and back again is the reason they crash and bang around street corners when under power. This makes them great for drag cars, drift cars and offroaders, but terrible for track cars and mall crawlers.
I put a Lokka in front, then rear of my 75 series Troopy many years ago. Best mods I ever did. I go wheeling from Lancelin to Albany, WA. I can make it up TJ Hill around Harvey no problem. I also made it up Bobs Hill around Brunswick (with a little track building) one year. * 75 Troopy Lifted (4"), Dual auto locked, 37's, Sliders, Bar work, Winch, Lights and some extra character (panel damage). Soon to have rear winch, lower transfer gears and a better departure angle chop. (and some rust/dents removed)
I had Lokka lockers in my Jeep Liberty on both ends. I had a lot of fun watching the looks on fellow offroaders who would wonder how a Liberty could do what it did. Now I have the same setup in my Jeep XJ and it goes anywhere. Lokka is great. They delivered in 3.5 days to Canada twice.
@@mikethemike6406 It will chirp the inside wheel when you turn off a stop sign unless you let off the gas as soon as you start to turn. With very little practice, you let off when turning at low speed and you will never notice it, except you hear it click.
@@hardcasthale4904 You can hear it click when you turn. I drive a Jeep so it isn't "quiet" in the first place. Some times I hear the clicking over the snorkel intake six inches from my head or the "low flow" exhaust system but not often. :)
For anyone trying to do testing after installing one in an SR5, if you only have the front wheels jacked up, you will need to turn the car on, put it in 4wd (may need to move the car a bit to engage it) then turn the car off still in 4wd. With the car off, put it in 2WD. The ADD won't disconnect the front half shaft until you turn the car back on, so the front wheels will stay connected to the diff and you can test as they have done in the vid.
I installed one in a 2001 Rodeo. Amazing value off-road mod. Perfect for a vehicle like this with manual locking hubs. Unlock the hubs, shift into 2wd and the lokka is sitting idle. They should be called auto UNLOKKA. They're always locked until a wheel wants to travel FASTER than the engine is pushing it. It only unlocks when the wheel speed for single wheel is GREATER than the input drive from your engine. For example, you're driving up a difficult track. Your engine is pushing you at 2m per second (2m/s). You turn your wheels left. The lokka keeps driving your left wheel at 2m/s. Your right wheel (following the longer path) is pushed [by the ground] at 2.1m/s. So the lokka UNLOCKS and allows that wheel to travel faster. But it doesn't let it travel any slower than the engine speed (e.g. 2m/s). So as soon as you're straight again, it pushes BOTH wheels as 2m/s.
Thanks Shaun for clearing up the misconceptions about these Lockers, I've ordered one for the front diff. I want to say that I rang 4WD Systems in Adelaide and spoke to the owner and he was a genuine, really nice guy. It was a pleasure to speak with this guy and because of that I am going to say that I thoroughly recommend them even though I haven't received it yet, brilliant.
I put one of these in my Nissan frontier (D40? for some of you) about 4 years ago. I use it offroad a bit and notice a big difference but the truest test of it for me was plowing snow. The amount of difference it made being able to back up off camber on my neighbors driveway with a plow on the front and also pushing banks around is night and day. One thing they don t mention though (at least for the version I have) is that the "unlock while turning" only works if you are not on the gas so it makes icy roundabouts that have hills interesting hah! Don't really notice it though at speed on a turn you just don't gun it though the corners and all is well.
I've been running a front lokka in my Y60 coil cab TD42 for 9 years, never skips a beat. Been running rear Detroit auto locker for 4 years, together unstoppable.
Hey mate I'm thinking of getting just a rear lokka because I have 105 Landcruiser fulltime 4x4 and just looking for cheapest option. Can't afford part time kit ect. Would you rate just doing rear? Cheers
@@Throughtheeyesofslim I guess it depends what type of terrain you'll be driving. I did the front locker on my patrol first, reason being with big heavy diesel engine weight in the front. I assume you also have a heavy 6 cylinder diesel up front, I'd do the same. If we had a light front end, I'd do rear first.
@@Throughtheeyesofslim another thing to consider is patrols flex more in the rear and have difficulty flexing front end. So the rear better chance of getting traction without a locker, however I know the land cruisers have a different front end track bar that allows better flex than patrols...tough decision, sorry to make it even harder for you but at least you'll make an informed decision.
@@Throughtheeyesofslim a third thing to consider is I have manual locking hubs...so I can disconnect the front axles and my front locker won't affect my steering...I believe the 105 series is full time 4wd? Confirm this and if you have auto or manual locking hubs.
Thanks for the replying mate. Yeah 1fz and full time 4wd. I'm looking to do on the cheap because I want a winch as well. I want to do tough tracks. Slow and in dry conditions.
Yes - thats for sure - a week later and only this Sunday was the last system rebuilt from scratch to handle the load ! Sorry to everyone who was inconvenienced.
I fitted one of these 6 years ago to the front of a 2000 Ford Courier. Yes a light duty 4wd with very limited wheel travel. Made a huge difference off road. Highly recommended!!!
The Lorax, G’day Champion. Mate how is that lokka going for you now? Also, how does the Courier drive on a daily basis? Eg; in 2WD. Cheers in advance...
@@phillipsampson4001 it was still going strong when I sold it 2 years back. It was fired with 31's. I was commuting on a bike so not doing massive k's in it.
I would recommend installing lockers front and rear, but I’d actually recommend starting with the rear first. Front axles, be it a solid or IFS, tend to be a lot weaker than the rear, and running lockers puts extra strain on the axle shafts, increasing the chances of breaking an axle.
@@supps101It would be the same regardless if your in 4wd. Auto lockers engage under power, so if your in 2wd you will not notice them or have any strain. But if you want to have 4wd you will need to have the hubs engaged.
4wd systems just called me and made the purchase over the phone what a legend. Great video boys spewing though can't even open there website keeps crashing must have alot of people on it
I put one like this but different brand in my rear of my CJ7. It worked but I had a lot of slop feeling every time I hit the gas at first. Did yours do the same?
After talking to the guys at Aussie Lokka about my 2001 PA Challenger, let me say 4WD Systems are the bomb. No bullshit, straight talking professional advice. I can’t wait for my Lokka. In fact. I’m going to drive to Adelaide and have these gurus fit mine.
Diogo Pronto I had my locker in a V46w lwb 1996 2.8 ,I swapped all the drive train over for the lower ratio diffs into my swb v26 w it works great better climber now ,good luck
Good video, thanks. I had a LockRight (copy of Lokka) in the rear of my Gen3 Jimny. It made the car evolve from very capable 4x4 to a mountain goat! Today I have a Gen4 Jimny, double locked with auto lockers from Kaiser in Brazil. Yes, with this rear locker I had a learning curve driving it but after a few weeks I got the hang of it and I have no regrets. I did talk to Lokka asking for a front and rear locker for my Gen4 Jimny but Lokka didn’t have any at the time. Lokka makes really good lockers!
Misconception there for "it will always unlock around every corner" Wrong, it will always unlock if your foot is off the gas and you're coasting around the corner. Otherwise if you're accelerating or driving like usual, it's definitely locked, and off you half ass it, little bit on, little bit off the gas, then you get a beautiful lurching as your Diff locks and unlocks on the fly. It's really not fun. I'm not saying it's a bad lokka, I've had one for years, I'm just saying make sure you tell it how it is.
You haven't by any chance driven in the snow have you? I intend on getting one in the rear of my 110 Lux, but a bit apprehensive of it binding and oversteering me off the road. I drive with MT's year round but we have icy roads four months a year. Not a lot of folks that have lockers on their daily driver, so it seems it's somewhat uncharted waters 🙂
@@hampuslytz5393 if you're driving in 4wd all the time for snow then I would Not put it in the front. In the rear would be less sketchy and more helpful tbh,
@@EliIronMan Yeah, gets far too tailhappy for comfort in RWD with MT´s so 4WD is a must, and I´ve read as much on forums to know that in front it's out of the question :) Will have to try it for myself, It´s a 2.4NA so coasting is all I do anyway ;) Btw did you have any experiance with snow driving with auto lockers in the snow?
Hampus Lytz lol from Canada here. If yr on the highway in snow u don’t want a locker in front or back. If u spin the rear u can whip right around very quickly. Gets the heart going pretty good. Also compression braking in snow can make the rear swing out easily too. In the front in slippery icy corners on blacktop wen a corner comes if both front tires loose traction u mite not b turning that corner. Also a Adrenalin hit.
@@123suzukisamurai Yo Canada, Finland here! Thx for concrete info, and sort of poking holes in my dream of lockers :P Nice to hear from someone that have proper winters, not just a slippery road here there :P I take it you ran auto lockers on a samurai? Did you have studded tyres or AT/MT´s? Elockers/Airlockers would be awesome but simply can´t justify the cost atm, nor can I risk the car doing a mid-flight u-turn on the road while taking my daughter to daycare if installing an auto locker, guess I´m stuck wih open diffs for hte time being
I've had an auto unlocker in my Patrol for years. I love it. Mine's a Lockright not a Lokka, but they are identical in operation. I have manual hubs and I always unlock them when on road in 2WD at highway speeds. If your hubs are locked, the diff will be constantly spinning the front diff and tailshaft , something that can't be good for wear, vibration, and fuel economy.
I think you need to explain how the lock right locker unlocks-under load in 4wd to make steering easy. Those lockers only unlock when no load is applied and you go through a turn. Cool truck.
They unock if the wheel is trying to roll faster than the diff is driving it. If there is good traction then the outside wheel on a corner can roll faster than the diff is sdriing it, if there is low traction and therefore wheel slippage then it wont unlock. You only need differential action on hard surfaces when theere is no slippage.
@@4wdsystemsgeartogoannawher754 So I take it they take a little getting used to on the beach? Even though I like going off the beaten track, most of my offroad work is on sand for fishing, would you still recommend these?
I have first hand seen these auto lockers work and they are pretty brilliant. The one downside of installing one is when you drive in snow on road. Maybe not an issue down in Australia, but this is where it changes driving characteristics on road with snow/ice on top. In a straight line it tends to pull side to side at higher speeds with snow on the ground as it unlocks and locks in the low traction environment making for some interesting driving. May not be an issue if it's in the rear though. My 2 cents, if you drive in winters with snow and ice on road, go for the manual locker. Every one else though, go for the auto and save some money. Food for thought.
Wouldn't be for us Queenslands it's always fucking hot here even in winter but fun fact Australia gets more snow cover in winter then all of Switzerland does. Plenty of roads are snowed over or iced up in Victoria and NSW around the mountain ranges Only thing we need to worry about in Qld is roads that are 10 meters under water 🤣
Have had one of these in the front of my Triton for the last 7 years/150,000 kms, never missed a beat and you don't know it's there in day to day driving
@@Barnesy4wd It doesn't affect anything when in 2wd. In 4wd you can feel it a little bit through the steering but generally I'm only going slowly along tracks if I'm in 4wd
From what I know, to turn u have to ease off the accelerator for it to unlock around corners - if u keep the power on, it will not unlock...That's what I found with the one in my Zook...
@@4wdsystemsgeartogoannawher754 True but when there's load on the diff (ie Hillclimb) - the forces at play will make it difficult for it to slip, if at all. I also had one in the rear of my Suzuki and at the time it was my daily driver. When u drive into tight carparks on a daily basis - it can put a lot of stress on the driveline (ie: axles) and in my situation, I ended up breaking a rear axle. I ended removing the rear one(installed a rear air Locker), left the one in the front and used it like that for years. I found that with the front locker, that I seldom needed to use the rear air locker...
I have this exact same locker in my Jeeps front dana 30 axle and it works great but it does affect steering. Any time the diff is just free spinning its not engaged but anytime power is pushed thru the diff it will engage and no it does not disengage when turning a corner unless I let off the gas and allow it to coast which stops the power pushing thru the diff. In 4x4 when turning on pavement the tires will chirp and if im on an incline and take it out of 4x4 some times it wont disengage without me backing up a short ways. I have gotten into the habit of reversing a short distance anytime I come out of 4x4 just to ensure its disengaged. All in all im happy with the Lokka as it really improves performance off roading
That is some useful stuff you have there. When I return to the UK and get my first ever offroader(after some serious thought) I'll be sure to throw that on the list of things I need! Once again you guys have made an epic episode. Makes my tour go a little easier watching all these episodes. All the best, Alex!
Fantastic Shauno - I have been a fan of the Lokka style of Diff Lock for years and have installed them in IFS 4Runner and even a GU Patrol and what a magic item they are. Thanks for sharing and dispelling all those myths that those with $2000 ARB Lockers like to talk about. They are an extremely capable Lokka for sure!
I had a 1975 Jeep j20 full time 4wd with hi and two and a turbo 400 trans(3speed auto) AMC 360 V8 2brl carb lol fully locked 100% of the time! Turning at stop signs was embarrassing at times lol and I had a supply of u joints and the Axel's where massive overkill Dana 60 and 80
Gawd, just discovered the lokka front locker. Was looking at rear arb lockers and didn’t even think about the front. Thought the front would be more expensive. Damn, cheap as fawk, and works. Getting one and maybe won’t even go with a rear if it works so damn well.
The "clunking" noise is the locker ratcheting. It makes that noise when you corner. The inside tyre is getting all of the power and the outside wheel is over-running the inside tyre. Whether or not you can hear it from inside depends on a number of things - how well it's set up, how chunky your axles are etc. If you set it up properly, it's not super noisy. If you have a tin can like my Samurai, you can really hear it even when it's set up right, if you drive a Land Cruiser with lots of sound deadening and thicker diff pumpkins, probably not so much. Probably...?
5 лет назад+1
@@antontaylor4530 Hey man, I just realized that this type requires power steering otherwise you'll fight the steering wheel badly! Right?
@ No, they behave like an open diff in that respect. I have a friend who has a samurai with the lockright version of these front and back, and he doesn't have power steering. Steers like stock.
Hello, I started watching and following you on RUclips for awhile. firstly I am very impressed by your videos your simplicity and your professionalism. Secondly knowing very well that at the moment I do not have the means to live that dream too, I feel so happy when I watch your videos on my TV and I feel that I'm with you for real. I want to express my gratitude and also wish you a lot of success Tarik / Morocco
Ratcheting lockers are great low cost traction aids, and I agree that the front locker in an IFS rig actually does more for useful traction than the rear in most rigs, especially if the rig is light in the rear anyway (pickups). However; Ratcheting lockers wear out rapidly if used in daily drivers. Don't expect it to last the life of the axle/diff the way a manual locker can. A proper electric/air/cable actuated manual locking diff (and associated internal gears acting like a traditional diff when unlocked) can last the life of the vehicle if not abused too badly off road, with multi-hundred thousand road miles between trail use. Also, front-diff applications of lockers in IFS can come with increased risk of diff/axle/CV breakage offroad if not treated with respect. The additional traction is great, but remember it means all the forces available to the drive-line can now find their way to a single axle or CV that is pinched up in a bad spot, so be careful. Keep the wheels pointed as straight as possible when going up really gnarly stuff. Ratcheting lockers don't unlock perfectly around corners and can result in unpredictable steering behavior (even yanking the wheel out of your hands as the locker transitions from disengaged to engaged as you accelerate out of a corner).
Just a question if the locker automatically disables if one wheel has resistance due to turning will it disable when one wheel has resistance during 4wding ?
Also in order to do the test that shauno did at the end when the luxy was on jack stands and he was turning the tyre to see if the other tyre would spin, would you have to engage 4Lo before doing the test to see if the lokka is working ?
The locker doesn't unlock because on the inside spins slower (more resistance) but because the outside tyre spins faster than the diff centre. This unloads the carry pin from the ratchet halves on either side of the pin. The mechanism works the same way as friction pack LSD where the power is transmitted into the diff centre through the carrier pin. The shape of the 'not so round' hole that the pin sits in dictates the clamping force of the ratchet half under load. This is why Shauno could spin the tyre while ol mate held the other. If Shauno had of spun the drive shaft instead it would have just bound the diff until ol mate let go and both tyres spun.
Liam Cooper thx for the discussion and info. I am still trying to get my head around how it behaves when 4wd is not engaged. I have the same model Hilux but don’t want to go the Lokka if it has a material affect on the the way the Hilux drives when being used day-to-day. Cheers
Please remember that this conversion only provides a "locked" diff whilst driving in a straight line, (both wheels rotating at the same speed), when cornering the diff will be slipping, (wheels rotating at different speeds), the clutch pack will be opening/closing against the spring pressure of trying to keep it together. That gives the clicking noise when cornering. This system is designed predominantly for part time 4 wheel drive ie 2wd hi / 4wd hi/lo with locking front hubs (auto or manual).
I find with mine in a GU Patrol front it stays locked as long as I keep the power on, if I back off it ratchets releasing the wind up and then I get back on the accelerator again to re lock it.
Not quite accurate - when turning on a hard surface with no slippage, the outside wheel can differentiate and unlock, but if the there is wheel slippage then the Lokka will stay locked - it really depends on the conditions and the amount of power applied. When there is wheel slippage differential action is no longer required !
I'm a bit different to most, fitted this in my falcon 2WD Outback ute. No getting stuck at all but it is very noisy ratcheting around corners. Good value and solution in place of my Hydratrak.
@Graeme Yamaha you're wrong in a way. They can't disengage if you are hard on the throttle and turning, the tiny springs can't overcome the torque which you are applying. I use to have one in my rear diff and if you put your foot down the lokka would stay locked on. It's annoying that they didn't explain this in this video because that is why I'm sceptical of sticking one in my front diff, it may be hard to turn or break something if you have to be on the throttle hard and turn at the same time. I broke the lokka branded one that was fitted into a 80 series 9.5 inch rear diff. Broke where the springs sit in the casing and made it so it didn't lock anymore and would make a hell of a noise when turning. I replaced it with a brand called spartan as they had a much beefier spring and detent setup than the lokka.
@Graeme Yamaha as I said, the one I broke was fitted into a ln65 hilux with 80 series diffs and a 350 chev motor, it was in the rear though not the front. Have to say I loved it, for the price it work really well. It drove really well on road too, when it was working correctly I couldn't even hear it and the vehicle drove normally. I have never driven one with a front auto locker though and in my mind I'm not so sure about fitting them to the front but in saying that I really need to experience it first before making a final judgement. In the rear though I think they are the best bang for buck you can get.
Hi Steve - it DOES work while you're turning on a track. It only unlocks when the wheel speed for single wheel is GREATER than the input drive from your engine. For example, you're driving up a difficult track. Your engine is pushing you at 2m per second. You turn your wheels left. The lokka keeps driving your left wheel at 2m/s. Your right wheel (following the longer path) is pushed [by the ground] at 2.1m/s. So the lokka UNLOCKS and allws that wheel to travel faster. But it doesn't let it travel any slower than the engine speed (e.g. 2m/s) Does that make sense? Does it answer your question?
Yes - it will unlock if the track is firm, but if its wheel spinning due to power all the way then it would stay locked. It can change what its doing all the way up the track - so each part of the track might require different action and it can handle that. The front diff fitment is actually the best part of the Lokka design - its actually the best way of locking a vehicle because you still retain almost all of your steering but also get differential action when you need it
@@adamposadas4163 give them a call mate - they will talk you through it. I have a 105 landcruiser and bought front and rear lokka and they are going in next week. Depends on car wether it's suited for 2....must be part time 4wd.
I had these on a gen 1 4 runner with ifs front had them on back and front and they made a huge difference but i will say the rear one can be a bit annoying occasionally it would spool up and let go no damage just noise second when you do tight turns you will hear it clicking away but no big issue but i did find if you were a supermarket carpark making multiple turn it would start spooling up and making it jerky to drive This was when it was manual when i put a auto in this did not happen any more due to constant drive going to the diff in front no issues just huge gains :) I had these for about 5 years and a lot of four wheel driving and it was my daily even when i put v6 in no issue i would happly use these again and will in my mitsubishi mk triton.
Can I please ask how the diff behaves when the DMax is in 2wd? Is it noisy, can you hear it ratcheting or simply if behaves like a open diff. Have a ‘13 Hilux and considering installing one bit concerned on its affect on day 2 day driving. Thx
These lockers seems very purposeful But can those be used in a daily drive vehicles and part time off-roading? Also can these Auto lockers be shipped internationally?
I fitted one of these to the front of my Y61 Patrol and love it. Much better than a manual locker, don't have to think about. Under load in 4x4 it stays locked, if it gets a bit tight in the steering just back off the loud pedal the diff unlocks and releases the wind up and then back on the accelerator again. With a manual locker you have to stop and hit the switch then drive, stop and hit the switch to turn it back on again. There are about half a dozen companies making this style of auto locking diff around the world, the USA has the most I found when looking around. Google "Lunch Box Locker" , a common name for them.
Currently running a detroit in the back and an arb in the front. A rear auto locker has worked flawlessly for me and I highly recommend it, I haven't run one in the front because i'm running a full time 4x4 the only problem I can really see is steering on track if it doesn't unlock or lock. I highly highly recommend this setup though, it's a good medium.
Manual front hubs on 4by. I have a lokka in front of my ford courier, air locker in the rear. When you turn the front hubs to lock position, that's when the lokka is locked good bit of kit!
Hey there guys, loved this vid sooo much, I ordered a lokka! Problem is, it's been a while since I purchased it and I haven't had an ounce of communication, confirmation, or product from goannawhere! I realise they state up to 5 weeks delay due to demand, but its dragging on now with no returned emails. Has covid forced them out of business???
They made a stuff up with describing how these work. Basically, with any drive to the diff, they're locked. If you roll along in 4wd, out of gear and then turn, the locker will disengage. As soon as you accelerate, the locker will lock.
TheMuddyHilux have played with many of these over the years , Detroit made one so did truetrack and many other slight variations of the same design ( many court cases happened 20 years ago ). Both wheels are locked till one wheel drives faster than crown wheel speed this allows the dog clutches ride over each other against the low spring pressure
Thanks mate putting one on the patrol spoke to Raleigh he's a legend getting it in 2 weeks I was gonna put bigger tires but this locker better value for money and the tyres can wait
Had one in the back of my 2016 dmax, since sold... lots of clunking on the seal while turning tight corners, especially under load ie up hill. All in all great bit of gear and the ute still hasn't broken an axle and traction super increased
Yes - you will hear it tock around corners - you may not hear it with windows up. Occasionally you will get a metallic clack out of it when you are accelerating heavily out of a tunr when it was unlockerd - its the two halves slapping together under load - doesnt do any damage. That can also happen if you have different rotating tyre diameters - eg different tyres, different pressures, flat tyre or different wear rates on the tyres (eg using an old worn spare). Having sai dthat - its very liveable My 100 has front and rear and most of its life is on the black top around town !
Thx for that - Really sorry about the crash - its taken over a week to fix - had guys working on it full time including the weekends ! Final rebuild occurred only this morning 10 days later !
The type of auto locker installed in that probably has replaced the side gears with the plates shown in the vehicle. For Suzukis, that setup doesn't like to unlock easy and can easily snap CVs/axles too. The alternative is to retain appropriate side gears which function the same as the plates, but ratchet more easily.
Funny I came across this video ... I had to throw the rear locker on in my tractor trailer today to get through some mud in a customers yard... gotta love a locker
Yes. I have one in my Patrol, and it works in reverse, with a BUT - it causes windup on full lock in reverse when reversing uphill with a lot of load, such as when multi-point turning on a switchback. Solution is to use less power if possible and use less steering lock. However, that maybe would not happen in a vehicle that is not centre diff locked (the Patrol does not have a centre diff but a fixed drive transfer case). Reversing without load not a problem. I believe that when on full lock in a vehicle with CV shafts they are most prone to damage whether Lokka'd or not, if too much power is applied.
Yes it does - everything is symmetrical, it also works in reverse principle too - few people are aware of this - so downhill engine descending is much better - you can no longer lock op the wheel in the air(or on scrabbly slippery ground) when feathering the brake to slow you down which causes the wheel on the ground to double its speed and literally accelerate you down the hill !
4WD Systems Gear to Goannawhere actually even act like a anti skid by not allowing one wheel on the axle to lock , if that makes sense ? So one wheel on tarmac the other on dirt , brake hard the one on the dirt will keep turning
Turning and loosing traction will both produce un-equal wheel rotation/travel on either side. How does the unit (w/c doesn't come with a steering angle sensor) determine which action is occurring in order to un-lock the locker? What parameters does the unit need to experience before it starts to un-lock itself? It will be good to know its limits for engagement to avoid this in case you might have to do some turns in certain hill climbs.
The first thing to undertanding is to think of this an Automatic Unlocker ! They dont sense slip to lock - they mechanically (through two opposing sets of camming actions ) detect when a wheel is trying to roll faster than the diff is driving the wheel - and then disengage it. If the wheel tries to roll faster than the diff is turning (which can only ever occur on a hard surface while cornering) it unlocks - when it slows down in speed to the rest of the diff - it rengages.
Been looking to get one for along time now but been skeptical. The thing I cannot understand as per the video is how can you have both wheels off the ground in a driveway with one wheel held and able to turn the other wheel? That is essentially the same scenario as 4wding one wheel on hard ground and the other in the air. How does it work to lock both wheels when one is unloaded 4wding, but also do the opposite and unlock when one is unloaded
It does not allow either wheel to rotate slower than the carrier, but with the right conditions it can unlock one side and let it spin ahead. So when 4WDing the carrier is going to turn both wheels at the same speed, and when cornering, the outer wheel is allowed to skip ahead slightly while the inner wheel stays locked to the carrier. If the inner wheel loses traction it will only do so until the speed matches that of the outer wheel and then they will be locked together again. Basically the ground can spin one wheel faster than the other, but the carrier can only drive them at the same speed. This means a one wheel spin-up is not possible.
That's what I was thinking, also, wouldn't it just disengage with any amount of force on the opposite wheel? Old mate was just holding the wheel and it unlocked when 'going around a corner'
It does not allow wheel to spin slower that diff if force is applied to diff, so in some corner cases (with negative rim offset) steering might be harder. But wheels can freely rotate faster that diff, it locks only when wheel resists to diff rotation.
@@MitchDenham when there is force on the drive shaft then both wheels spin at the same speed but one wheel has the ability to roll fasters than the other around a corner
Had one sent all the way to UK a while back for the front of my Trooper, still the cheapest bet, fitted to a used diff ready for a Saturday swap. By the way guys its "affect" the drive not "effect". Trooper comes with plate type rear LSD as stock. Should be unstoppable.
How does it differentiate between needing to unlock when turning on the road and staying locked when maneuvering off-road when you need it to stay locked?
Still wondering why Sooty doesn't have a front locker! I suspect it would make the show boring when one truck drives through everything and the others are struggling....
I'm no mechanic, but in seems easy to install. Can you do this on any make 4 wheel drive? I drive a 2017 2.2 Ford Ranger and I'm from Namibia. Really love the 4WD action videos
I recently took a front Lokka out of my 80-series. It requires a particular driving style (i.e. no acceleration or braking while turning), and the front end will fight the steering wheel straight anytime you press the accelerator with 4WD engaged. Not good for winter driving.
How can you turn without acceleration ? This is done only when going downhill but then you are braking LOL . What about turning and climbing or turning on a 4x4 path on even road ? A manual locker needs to be set to off while turning uphill ... If this locker does not disengage then we have problems ....
"How can you turn without acceleration ?" by coasting, duh."A manual locker needs to be set to off while turning uphill" yes, and you have the option of turning it off.
Totally agree that a locker up front is more beneficial on an IFS vehicle. I will say having a lunchbox locker on my IFS Ranger I really wish it was selectable, steering can be a real pain and you can’t use it on the street with heavy snow. That being said with an lsd in the rear and the front locker there’s almost no place I can’t go.
It’s less of a bother now that I don’t use the ranger for anything but off road, In areas where I don’t need 4WD it makes turning a little bit annoying. So if I come to a tight turn in sand where I don’t need 4WD I can unlock the hubs. So I find myself taking it out or 4WD more often than just keeping it in 4WD until I hit another obstacle. A selectable locker is nice to have, ox lockers have some manually activated lockers. They might be twice the price though and require more for the install like running a cable and a lever. It’s a convenience and you have to decide if the extra money is worth it. I have a electric lockers in my Jeep and don’t trust them yet, my air locker broke, you don’t have to worry about lunchbox lockers breaking and the price is great.
The whole videos a lie mate the lockers don't disengage when turning they disengage when the force turning the wheel isn't coming from the engine. Not sure if they don't know or are peddling their product
Great video. I have Detroit tru tracs front and rear on my 99xj and they are fantastic. You only know they are operating because your still moving forward thru off camber and hectic terrain.
Issac Stuckhardt Thinking of doing the same on my 97 xj. It’s also a daily driver, any thing I should be concerned about because it’s a daily driver in a state with all 4 seasons. Lots of snow!!
Great explanation Shauno, clear but one thing missing. Some differentials must be timed, some don't. So best for a DIY mechanic, mark pinion and crowned so they can go together as they were before. No reason to go into the technical details, just mark and they will be OK.
They are basically locked unless your costing in a turn . They are rough , loud , jerky ect , but they do work I’ve had plenty in both ends , now that I matured ( got a trailer ) I run a welded in both ends with hydro steering . Turning radius is horrible but predictable ... I have a solid axle 1986 Xtra cab
Great video. However, I would be very hesitant putting a locker in the front if driving on snow/ice as it will affect steering. But if snow/ice isn’t a condition a front locker (and one in the rear) is a damn good option.
Peter Moore, sounds promising, but if you have the traction control on, whilst driving on the road (2019 triton and pathfinders) wouldn’t that damage the lokka? I imagine using “auto traction” in the rain on bitumen roads, what if you forget and your doing 80+ kilometres. Just curious
Seems to work on everything we've thrown at it. The traction control detects wheel spin (or rather a significant difference in wheel speed) to start workikg - The Lokka prevents that from happening in the first place - so it doesnt geta chane to work !
4WD Systems Gear to Goannawhere most traction control requires a 30% differential in speed , well actual pulse rate from the speed detectors . So yep the traction control should not effect it . But would think it might upset stability control if fitted.
It does not unlock with steering input so it will stay locked. As shown in the vid it allows one wheel to overrun the other wheel. So when turning a corner the outside wheel unlocks because it wants to spin faster then the axle rpm. In summery one wheel can spin faster then axle rpm(outside wheel in a turn) but both wheel must always travel at least as fast as axle rpm.
@@shaungrubb6598 yep totally correct. I really think they do differ vehicle to vehicle install to install. I fitted free wheeling hubs at the same time. In a spot where its being a bitch to turn unlock one front wheel
I got a question say if you are doing hill climbing with rocks and you get wheel lift in the back and you have a front lokka won’t it just gain speed and you have to use your brakes?
Isn't that $300 US which now a days because trump doesn't like China has caused currency conversions to turn to crap. That's about $450 here in Shrimp coin.
They did address some of these points in the video - especially around IFS. Unless you have a decent LSD in the rear already. No point pulling that out for an auto lokka when you could have both.
Where I come from we don't call what you are describing as an auto locker, we call it a limited slip. I bought a dodge power wagon in 1975 that had Dana 60's with limited slip front and back. I used it for 10 years in Detroit plowing snow in winter and offroad bushwhaking in the summer, it was the best most capable truck you ever saw, I mean it was nearly unstoppable. A positraction differential will not only not steer it will walk sideways downhill when it loses traction, major problem weather plowing snow or on a trail offroad. The limited slip will throw the power to the highest wheel, which will prevent it from walking sideways downhill.
@@davontemartin5752 There is no problem with longevity because the gear is able to rachet backwards in the same way as a socket set does it then engages again when the drive force is applied .
Hello from the US. I love your videos. I own a 1989 dodge raider 3.0 liter. It came loaded with headlight washers, horizon ball, Suspension seat, and best of all a factory rear LSD. But I look forward to adding this exact locker to the front, it's only $350. Keep the videos coming
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey all - looks like the 4WD Systems website couldn't handle the traffic last night - but it's up and running now! If you tried to purchase last night and couldn't - head to www.4wdsystems.com.au/index.php?id=180 now and use the 20% discount code 'ACTIONLKA19' - or call them on (08) 8369 0033
Yeh he called me last night at 8pm to make the order for a front Lokka and front and rear diff gears.
Sorry Guys - We got smashed - 2 IT techs working till after midnight to fix things
My question which size of tires did you use during your video please
Update 25th August - Finally got the last problem sorted and the system and payment gateway is now working properly - a huge thanks to my IT guy who has been working on all the issues for 10 days most days and most nights to get things stabilised. We've all been working 15+ hours a day to keep up with it !
You dont have an option for a 2008 dodge dakota
We call these types of lockers lunch box lockers in the states. They are really only designed for very light duty use. The sharp edges on the teeth wear out fairly quickly and they start slipping and ratcheting. Most new guys in my jeep club go the route when they first start. But after they have went through 3 of them, they arent any cheaper than a Detroit, which also unlocks when cornering. Both the truetrack and the actual locker unlock. I started out with lock rights, the went to spools, then Detroit's, and finally arbs. For a manual install it and forget it, nothing works better that a Detroit. They will outlast your axles, period. Foe a push button system, arb with braided air lines is the best I have found. I base all of my statements off of 40 years of trail and breakage. There is nothing wrong with lunchbox lockers, just realize they are very light duty going in. Good luck.
I have to disagree with how he states that a lunchbox locker works. Yes the teeth are engaged by default and they will disengage when turning but only under specific conditions. The housing of a lunch box locker where the diff pin goes through is designed with an elongated hole. The reason for this hole design is so that when the pinion turns the carrier the pin that goes through both the carrier and the locker housing gets forced to the side of the locker housing oblongated hole which acts like a ramp forcing the two halves of the locker outward, this applies pressure to ensure the teeth stay engaged. So if you are in 4wd and there is torque applied to the front driveshaft the locker will not disengage until the load/torque is removed. If you have any type of traction on the front wheels while in 4wd they will not automatically disengage when you turn. Depending on whether your 4wd is a manual or automatic transmission will determine how to properly drive your vehicle in 4wd with lunch box lockers. There is a learning curve, especially if auto lockers are in the rear axle. For example if your vehicle is a manual transmission and need to make a sharp turn going uphill when you are sitting a stop light or intersection, to smoothly drive through that corner and give the auto locker the ability to disengage you must first drive straight and build momentum to carry you through the turn then press the clutch and coast through and the locker will unlock. If you try to accelerate through the corner it will create a load on the rear axle and the locker will not disengage and you'll chirp the tires or it will hop through the corner. Load or torque on the differential is needed to apply and no load to disengage. Also if in very slick conditions you may need to ride the brake pedal to add load to the differential to get the locker to engage or to stay engaged.
Is it true that front auto lockers are noisy?
"light duty" bullshit they do last and are durable. If you're constantly needing to replace them then you're obviously driving to hard and to fast
Raphael Smithwick - just gonna point out the contradiction in your response, you believe them to be durable unless driven too fast and hard? That’s pretty much saying they will NOT last if actually used in the environment they say they were designed to be used in. So NO, they are NOT durable.
@@raphaelsmithwick4363 saying something doesn't last if driven fast or hard means it's light duty...
Absolutely by far, the best mod to my Dmax. No solenoid, no airlines and it turns like a ripper. My LOKKA has literally saved my car from complete loss during our biggest wet season on record 2yrs ago. Performs faultlessly. Value beyond words
Which model dmax? I have a 2016 and not sure if they make them for it.
These things are essentially a ratchet in place of your normal diff centre (spider gears). They lock up under power, and force both tyres to run at the same speed as the ring gear, never slower - but if one tyre (the outside tyre) wants to run faster than the ring gear, it ratchets (hence the clack-clack noise) and that one side unlocks. The slower side is still locked to the ring gear. This means shock loading is reduced compared to unlocked diffs, so you should break less halfshafts in theory.
In theory...!
I was wondering and this is the perfect explanation. Thanks!
I see as a load thing. .certain amount of load and it slips. .. I agree with you. .in theory ☺
@@simontheyers547 It's not a load thing, and my explanation is not a theory. I'm not trying to be rude, just explain that this is how they're engineered.
Ok, if you want the facts of how they work: Your diff centre spider gears are replaced by two solid chunks of metal with ratchet sprockets on the outside, that mate into special side gears with similar ratchet sprockets on their inside face. Under no load, they'll ratchet (clack clack clack as one tyre spins faster than the other - or in the opposite direction even).
Between these two chunks of metal you have a pin (the "carrier cross pin") that runs right through the thing, in a hole that isn't quite round. As you apply power, the diff carrier pushes on the carrier pin, and the carrier pin slides inside the slightly not round hole it lives in. This then pushes the two halves of the diff centre apart, forcing them into the side gears and locking them (and by extension, the wheels attached to those side gears by halfshafts).
If one wheel tries to run faster than the diff housing, that causes the pin that is forcing the two halves apart back into the centre of the not quite round hole because it's not pushing the diff centre as fast as the wheel is turning. This lets the two halves slip back out of engagement with the side gears, and the whole thing unlocks, allowing the faster wheel to ratchet. (Clack clack clack). You can see this demonstrated at 2:12 in the video, where he pushes one side out of engagement with a screwdriver. In that shot you can also see the not-quite-round hole between the two halves (he doesn't have the cross-pin installed at this point, you can see it on the floor on the left).
This is why if you try to power around a corner, they'll make crashing, banging, clunking sounds as they lock, unlock, lock and unlock over and over again. Most people try to coast around corners or at the very least, take corners smoothly without excessive power.
This is not theory, this is how they're engineered. Trust me, I have built these into diffs. I get how they work.
@@antontaylor4530 Basically it's a mechanical blinding version of a friction plate pack LSD except these lockers come as 2way only hahah. Hate the stock D22 navi LSD coz it was only 1way (triangle and not 'not quite round' hole. Either way I don't know why people can not wrap their heads around the working of it.
@@liamcooper5202 They're actually the opposite of an LSD mechanically and operationally.
An LSD is a set of clutches, and it'll slip if one wheel experiences significantly different forces to the other. This means that an LSD will usually slip if one wheel is in the air, making them barely better for offroad use than a basic open diff. They're not designed for offroad use, they're for track, drag and street use.
Yes, manufacturers have fitted them to 4wd's. But that was more about marketing and mall crawling than offroading.
LSD's aren't "lockers" at all, they're "resistant" differentials.
A locker can lock up solid. An LSD can't do that (if it did, it would become a spool at that point, not an LSD).
A "locker" is either automatic or selectable. A selectable is a diff, most often open but sometimes carrying an LSD centre. You select when it should act like a spool.
An automatic is not a "differential" at all in the traditional sense if you look at the assembled components.
It's either locked up like a spool, or it's ratcheting. It never, ever sends power to each wheel proportionally to the distance the wheel is turning - it either sends 100% to both wheels, 100% to one wheel (in low load scenarios) or it is unloaded and there is nothing to send to either wheel.
Switching between 100% to one wheel, then 100% to both and back again is the reason they crash and bang around street corners when under power.
This makes them great for drag cars, drift cars and offroaders, but terrible for track cars and mall crawlers.
I put a Lokka in front, then rear of my 75 series Troopy many years ago. Best mods I ever did. I go wheeling from Lancelin to Albany, WA. I can make it up TJ Hill around Harvey no problem. I also made it up Bobs Hill around Brunswick (with a little track building) one year.
* 75 Troopy Lifted (4"), Dual auto locked, 37's, Sliders, Bar work, Winch, Lights and some extra character (panel damage).
Soon to have rear winch, lower transfer gears and a better departure angle chop. (and some rust/dents removed)
Sounds like a great bus!
@I'lleatyou i care
I had Lokka lockers in my Jeep Liberty on both ends. I had a lot of fun watching the looks on fellow offroaders who would wonder how a Liberty could do what it did. Now I have the same setup in my Jeep XJ and it goes anywhere. Lokka is great. They delivered in 3.5 days to Canada twice.
Scott Miner
How loud are they for daily driver vehicles? Slight? Annoying? Obnoxious?
My front one is awesome, but I am hesitant to put one in the back because I hear that pavement driving is terrible.
@@mikethemike6406 It will chirp the inside wheel when you turn off a stop sign unless you let off the gas as soon as you start to turn. With very little practice, you let off when turning at low speed and you will never notice it, except you hear it click.
@@hardcasthale4904 You can hear it click when you turn. I drive a Jeep so it isn't "quiet" in the first place. Some times I hear the clicking over the snorkel intake six inches from my head or the "low flow" exhaust system but not often. :)
For anyone trying to do testing after installing one in an SR5, if you only have the front wheels jacked up, you will need to turn the car on, put it in 4wd (may need to move the car a bit to engage it) then turn the car off still in 4wd. With the car off, put it in 2WD. The ADD won't disconnect the front half shaft until you turn the car back on, so the front wheels will stay connected to the diff and you can test as they have done in the vid.
I installed one in a 2001 Rodeo. Amazing value off-road mod. Perfect for a vehicle like this with manual locking hubs. Unlock the hubs, shift into 2wd and the lokka is sitting idle.
They should be called auto UNLOKKA. They're always locked until a wheel wants to travel FASTER than the engine is pushing it.
It only unlocks when the wheel speed for single wheel is GREATER than the input drive from your engine. For example, you're driving up a difficult track. Your engine is pushing you at 2m per second (2m/s). You turn your wheels left. The lokka keeps driving your left wheel at 2m/s. Your right wheel (following the longer path) is pushed [by the ground] at 2.1m/s. So the lokka UNLOCKS and allows that wheel to travel faster. But it doesn't let it travel any slower than the engine speed (e.g. 2m/s). So as soon as you're straight again, it pushes BOTH wheels as 2m/s.
OK - New trademark coming up !!
Well explained Shaun...your experience on the road and with general misconceptions on lockers makes this video quite relevant. Thank you!
Yeah awesome locker but bloody noisy
Thanks Shaun for clearing up the misconceptions about these Lockers, I've ordered one for the front diff. I want to say that I rang 4WD Systems in Adelaide and spoke to the owner and he was a genuine, really nice guy. It was a pleasure to speak with this guy and because of that I am going to say that I thoroughly recommend them even though I haven't received it yet, brilliant.
I've received my Lokka, fitted it and it works really well and with the use of hub locks, it doesn't even come into play on the road.
@@Vacublaster1 how is it to daily drive and should i buy one.
I put one of these in my Nissan frontier (D40? for some of you) about 4 years ago. I use it offroad a bit and notice a big difference but the truest test of it for me was plowing snow. The amount of difference it made being able to back up off camber on my neighbors driveway with a plow on the front and also pushing banks around is night and day. One thing they don t mention though (at least for the version I have) is that the "unlock while turning" only works if you are not on the gas so it makes icy roundabouts that have hills interesting hah! Don't really notice it though at speed on a turn you just don't gun it though the corners and all is well.
I've been running a front lokka in my Y60 coil cab TD42 for 9 years, never skips a beat. Been running rear Detroit auto locker for 4 years, together unstoppable.
Hey mate I'm thinking of getting just a rear lokka because I have 105 Landcruiser fulltime 4x4 and just looking for cheapest option. Can't afford part time kit ect. Would you rate just doing rear? Cheers
@@Throughtheeyesofslim I guess it depends what type of terrain you'll be driving. I did the front locker on my patrol first, reason being with big heavy diesel engine weight in the front. I assume you also have a heavy 6 cylinder diesel up front, I'd do the same. If we had a light front end, I'd do rear first.
@@Throughtheeyesofslim another thing to consider is patrols flex more in the rear and have difficulty flexing front end. So the rear better chance of getting traction without a locker, however I know the land cruisers have a different front end track bar that allows better flex than patrols...tough decision, sorry to make it even harder for you but at least you'll make an informed decision.
@@Throughtheeyesofslim a third thing to consider is I have manual locking hubs...so I can disconnect the front axles and my front locker won't affect my steering...I believe the 105 series is full time 4wd? Confirm this and if you have auto or manual locking hubs.
Thanks for the replying mate. Yeah 1fz and full time 4wd. I'm looking to do on the cheap because I want a winch as well. I want to do tough tracks. Slow and in dry conditions.
Well done boys - we managed to crash their web server for purchasing :)
Yes - thats for sure - a week later and only this Sunday was the last system rebuilt from scratch to handle the load ! Sorry to everyone who was inconvenienced.
Must have been quite the crash, website still buggered
@@AussieArchery4 years later and it's still buggen😂
I fitted one of these 6 years ago to the front of a 2000 Ford Courier. Yes a light duty 4wd with very limited wheel travel. Made a huge difference off road. Highly recommended!!!
The Lorax, G’day Champion.
Mate how is that lokka going for you now? Also, how does the Courier drive on a daily basis? Eg; in 2WD.
Cheers in advance...
@@phillipsampson4001 it was still going strong when I sold it 2 years back. It was fired with 31's. I was commuting on a bike so not doing massive k's in it.
Yeah right it would be that easy to install. There would be ton's of cursing in my driveway...
They are easy enough. I did my own one in my Patrol. Hardest part was lifting the pumpkin back in on my own - the Patrol diffs are HEAVY
from you or the missus ? OR BOTH ? ;)
I would recommend installing lockers front and rear, but I’d actually recommend starting with the rear first. Front axles, be it a solid or IFS, tend to be a lot weaker than the rear, and running lockers puts extra strain on the axle shafts, increasing the chances of breaking an axle.
With locking hubs in the front set to freewheel will cause less strain on front diff for every day use wouldn't it?
@@supps101It would be the same regardless if your in 4wd.
Auto lockers engage under power, so if your in 2wd you will not notice them or have any strain. But if you want to have 4wd you will need to have the hubs engaged.
4wd systems just called me and made the purchase over the phone what a legend.
Great video boys spewing though can't even open there website keeps crashing must have alot of people on it
I got a Lokka for my GU patrol for $370 from 4wd systems definitely the best Mod I've done so far. Transformed the capability massively.
Thx - makes a huge difference !
I have one in the rear of my Fist Gen Tundra, super fun in 2WD in snow ! Street driving is a little strange but easy to get used to!
I put one like this but different brand in my rear of my CJ7. It worked but I had a lot of slop feeling every time I hit the gas at first. Did yours do the same?
After talking to the guys at Aussie Lokka about my 2001 PA Challenger, let me say 4WD Systems are the bomb. No bullshit, straight talking professional advice. I can’t wait for my Lokka. In fact. I’m going to drive to Adelaide and have these gurus fit mine.
If you've ever wanted to say locker in Australian just say "Lokka"
Thats the actual name 😃
Perfect branding for Australian
Yeah but in a commodore a ‘lokka’ is really a welded diff lol
I run one of those lockers in the front of my v26 mitsubishi ,massive difference than not having one ,and It puts less stress on the drive train 😎🤘🏽
Nice mate. I have a pajero 2.8TD LWB can you tell me if it fits on that model?
Diogo Pronto I had my locker in a V46w lwb 1996 2.8 ,I swapped all the drive train over for the lower ratio diffs into my swb v26 w it works great better climber now ,good luck
Junk!
Actually lockers put way more strain on your drive train especially your ring and pinion
These lockers work well. I put one in my 98ZJ, solid performance...
Good video, thanks.
I had a LockRight (copy of Lokka) in the rear of my Gen3 Jimny. It made the car evolve from very capable 4x4 to a mountain goat!
Today I have a Gen4 Jimny, double locked with auto lockers from Kaiser in Brazil. Yes, with this rear locker I had a learning curve driving it but after a few weeks I got the hang of it and I have no regrets.
I did talk to Lokka asking for a front and rear locker for my Gen4 Jimny but Lokka didn’t have any at the time.
Lokka makes really good lockers!
Misconception there for "it will always unlock around every corner"
Wrong, it will always unlock if your foot is off the gas and you're coasting around the corner.
Otherwise if you're accelerating or driving like usual, it's definitely locked, and off you half ass it, little bit on, little bit off the gas, then you get a beautiful lurching as your Diff locks and unlocks on the fly.
It's really not fun.
I'm not saying it's a bad lokka, I've had one for years, I'm just saying make sure you tell it how it is.
You haven't by any chance driven in the snow have you? I intend on getting one in the rear of my 110 Lux, but a bit apprehensive of it binding and oversteering me off the road. I drive with MT's year round but we have icy roads four months a year. Not a lot of folks that have lockers on their daily driver, so it seems it's somewhat uncharted waters 🙂
@@hampuslytz5393 if you're driving in 4wd all the time for snow then I would Not put it in the front. In the rear would be less sketchy and more helpful tbh,
@@EliIronMan Yeah, gets far too tailhappy for comfort in RWD with MT´s so 4WD is a must, and I´ve read as much on forums to know that in front it's out of the question :)
Will have to try it for myself, It´s a 2.4NA so coasting is all I do anyway ;)
Btw did you have any experiance with snow driving with auto lockers in the snow?
Hampus Lytz lol from Canada here. If yr on the highway in snow u don’t want a locker in front or back. If u spin the rear u can whip right around very quickly. Gets the heart going pretty good. Also compression braking in snow can make the rear swing out easily too. In the front in slippery icy corners on blacktop wen a corner comes if both front tires loose traction u mite not b turning that corner. Also a Adrenalin hit.
@@123suzukisamurai Yo Canada, Finland here! Thx for concrete info, and sort of poking holes in my dream of lockers :P Nice to hear from someone that have proper winters, not just a slippery road here there :P
I take it you ran auto lockers on a samurai? Did you have studded tyres or AT/MT´s?
Elockers/Airlockers would be awesome but simply can´t justify the cost atm, nor can I risk the car doing a mid-flight u-turn on the road while taking my daughter to daycare if installing an auto locker, guess I´m stuck wih open diffs for hte time being
I've had an auto unlocker in my Patrol for years. I love it. Mine's a Lockright not a Lokka, but they are identical in operation. I have manual hubs and I always unlock them when on road in 2WD at highway speeds. If your hubs are locked, the diff will be constantly spinning the front diff and tailshaft , something that can't be good for wear, vibration, and fuel economy.
No difference in this respect to a normal diff
I think you need to explain how the lock right locker unlocks-under load in 4wd to make steering easy. Those lockers only unlock when no load is applied and you go through a turn. Cool truck.
They unock if the wheel is trying to roll faster than the diff is driving it. If there is good traction then the outside wheel on a corner can roll faster than the diff is sdriing it, if there is low traction and therefore wheel slippage then it wont unlock. You only need differential action on hard surfaces when theere is no slippage.
@@4wdsystemsgeartogoannawher754 So I take it they take a little getting used to on the beach? Even though I like going off the beaten track, most of my offroad work is on sand for fishing, would you still recommend these?
I have first hand seen these auto lockers work and they are pretty brilliant. The one downside of installing one is when you drive in snow on road. Maybe not an issue down in Australia, but this is where it changes driving characteristics on road with snow/ice on top. In a straight line it tends to pull side to side at higher speeds with snow on the ground as it unlocks and locks in the low traction environment making for some interesting driving. May not be an issue if it's in the rear though. My 2 cents, if you drive in winters with snow and ice on road, go for the manual locker. Every one else though, go for the auto and save some money. Food for thought.
Wouldn't be for us Queenslands it's always fucking hot here even in winter but fun fact Australia gets more snow cover in winter then all of Switzerland does. Plenty of roads are snowed over or iced up in Victoria and NSW around the mountain ranges
Only thing we need to worry about in Qld is roads that are 10 meters under water 🤣
That 'Lux needs to join you, Graham and Stu Dog for a trip now! He's got no excuse😁
Have had one of these in the front of my Triton for the last 7 years/150,000 kms, never missed a beat and you don't know it's there in day to day driving
how does it go towing or driving at 100kms plus while turning? also did affect fuel?
@@Barnesy4wd It doesn't affect anything when in 2wd. In 4wd you can feel it a little bit through the steering but generally I'm only going slowly along tracks if I'm in 4wd
@@Barnesy4wd You don't tow anything with a triton. If you want to keep driving a triton that is. 🤣
From what I know, to turn u have to ease off the accelerator for it to unlock around corners - if u keep the power on, it will not unlock...That's what I found with the one in my Zook...
That can happen when you have a lot of front to rear tailshaft windup - ie on a hard surface - back off or blip the pedal or take it out of 4WD !
@@4wdsystemsgeartogoannawher754 True but when there's load on the diff (ie Hillclimb) - the forces at play will make it difficult for it to slip, if at all. I also had one in the rear of my Suzuki and at the time it was my daily driver. When u drive into tight carparks on a daily basis - it can put a lot of stress on the driveline (ie: axles) and in my situation, I ended up breaking a rear axle. I ended removing the rear one(installed a rear air Locker), left the one in the front and used it like that for years. I found that with the front locker, that I seldom needed to use the rear air locker...
I have this exact same locker in my Jeeps front dana 30 axle and it works great but it does affect steering. Any time the diff is just free spinning its not engaged but anytime power is pushed thru the diff it will engage and no it does not disengage when turning a corner unless I let off the gas and allow it to coast which stops the power pushing thru the diff. In 4x4 when turning on pavement the tires will chirp and if im on an incline and take it out of 4x4 some times it wont disengage without me backing up a short ways. I have gotten into the habit of reversing a short distance anytime I come out of 4x4 just to ensure its disengaged. All in all im happy with the Lokka as it really improves performance off roading
That is some useful stuff you have there. When I return to the UK and get my first ever offroader(after some serious thought) I'll be sure to throw that on the list of things I need! Once again you guys have made an epic episode. Makes my tour go a little easier watching all these episodes. All the best, Alex!
Google "lockright" - they're the go-to guys for these things over here.
Fantastic Shauno - I have been a fan of the Lokka style of Diff Lock for years and have installed them in IFS 4Runner and even a GU Patrol and what a magic item they are. Thanks for sharing and dispelling all those myths that those with $2000 ARB Lockers like to talk about. They are an extremely capable Lokka for sure!
Question: Rear vs Front locking diff?
Answer: wHy NoT bOtH?!
Spent $200 on a spartan locker for my 8.8. five years later it's still working great
Mechanical genius... but the most impressive part is it's made in Australia ... well done guys.
Thanks - its been over 25 years in the making
how much the shipping cost to Malaysia?
I had a 1975 Jeep j20 full time 4wd with hi and two and a turbo 400 trans(3speed auto) AMC 360 V8 2brl carb lol fully locked 100% of the time! Turning at stop signs was embarrassing at times lol and I had a supply of u joints and the Axel's where massive overkill Dana 60 and 80
Why such a large price markup over direct from LOKKA?
Gawd, just discovered the lokka front locker. Was looking at rear arb lockers and didn’t even think about the front. Thought the front would be more expensive. Damn, cheap as fawk, and works. Getting one and maybe won’t even go with a rear if it works so damn well.
I noticed it makes a clunking noise when Shaun demonstrates how it unlocks. So can you hear the clunking from inside the cab when disengaged?
The "clunking" noise is the locker ratcheting. It makes that noise when you corner. The inside tyre is getting all of the power and the outside wheel is over-running the inside tyre.
Whether or not you can hear it from inside depends on a number of things - how well it's set up, how chunky your axles are etc. If you set it up properly, it's not super noisy. If you have a tin can like my Samurai, you can really hear it even when it's set up right, if you drive a Land Cruiser with lots of sound deadening and thicker diff pumpkins, probably not so much. Probably...?
@@antontaylor4530 Hey man, I just realized that this type requires power steering otherwise you'll fight the steering wheel badly! Right?
@ No, they behave like an open diff in that respect. I have a friend who has a samurai with the lockright version of these front and back, and he doesn't have power steering. Steers like stock.
Hello,
I started watching and following you on RUclips for awhile. firstly I am very impressed by your videos your simplicity and your professionalism. Secondly knowing very well that at the moment I do not have the means to live that dream too, I feel so happy when I watch your videos on my TV and I feel that I'm with you for real.
I want to express my gratitude and also wish you a lot of success
Tarik / Morocco
Love the Woodford tracks in the clip!
Ratcheting lockers are great low cost traction aids, and I agree that the front locker in an IFS rig actually does more for useful traction than the rear in most rigs, especially if the rig is light in the rear anyway (pickups). However; Ratcheting lockers wear out rapidly if used in daily drivers. Don't expect it to last the life of the axle/diff the way a manual locker can. A proper electric/air/cable actuated manual locking diff (and associated internal gears acting like a traditional diff when unlocked) can last the life of the vehicle if not abused too badly off road, with multi-hundred thousand road miles between trail use. Also, front-diff applications of lockers in IFS can come with increased risk of diff/axle/CV breakage offroad if not treated with respect. The additional traction is great, but remember it means all the forces available to the drive-line can now find their way to a single axle or CV that is pinched up in a bad spot, so be careful. Keep the wheels pointed as straight as possible when going up really gnarly stuff.
Ratcheting lockers don't unlock perfectly around corners and can result in unpredictable steering behavior (even yanking the wheel out of your hands as the locker transitions from disengaged to engaged as you accelerate out of a corner).
Just a question if the locker automatically disables if one wheel has resistance due to turning will it disable when one wheel has resistance during 4wding ?
Also in order to do the test that shauno did at the end when the luxy was on jack stands and he was turning the tyre to see if the other tyre would spin, would you have to engage 4Lo before doing the test to see if the lokka is working ?
The locker doesn't unlock because on the inside spins slower (more resistance) but because the outside tyre spins faster than the diff centre. This unloads the carry pin from the ratchet halves on either side of the pin. The mechanism works the same way as friction pack LSD where the power is transmitted into the diff centre through the carrier pin. The shape of the 'not so round' hole that the pin sits in dictates the clamping force of the ratchet half under load. This is why Shauno could spin the tyre while ol mate held the other. If Shauno had of spun the drive shaft instead it would have just bound the diff until ol mate let go and both tyres spun.
@@r.mhaych5021 you only need to have the hubs locked. If your 4x4 has auto hubs then you would need to put into h4 or l4.
Liam Cooper thx for the discussion and info. I am still trying to get my head around how it behaves when 4wd is not engaged. I have the same model Hilux but don’t want to go the Lokka if it has a material affect on the the way the Hilux drives when being used day-to-day. Cheers
@@4bnewb969 did you get one in the end? Did it effect your day to day driving and was it ratchety?
Please remember that this conversion only provides a "locked" diff whilst driving in a straight line, (both wheels rotating at the same speed), when cornering the diff will be slipping, (wheels rotating at different speeds), the clutch pack will be opening/closing against the spring pressure of trying to keep it together. That gives the clicking noise when cornering.
This system is designed predominantly for part time 4 wheel drive ie 2wd hi / 4wd hi/lo with locking front hubs (auto or manual).
I find with mine in a GU Patrol front it stays locked as long as I keep the power on, if I back off it ratchets releasing the wind up and then I get back on the accelerator again to re lock it.
@@geoffmoroney9283 in thinking of putting this in my GU. Does the noise bother you? Is it a worthwhile mod?
@@JasonParkers Noise doesn't bother me and the mod is worth it. If I ever replaced my Patrol I would fit another to the replacement.
Not quite accurate - when turning on a hard surface with no slippage, the outside wheel can differentiate and unlock, but if the there is wheel slippage then the Lokka will stay locked - it really depends on the conditions and the amount of power applied. When there is wheel slippage differential action is no longer required !
Drink your beer every time he says locker!!!!!!
2 months in... Became sober because he never said locker. Just something about lakkas
I'm a bit different to most, fitted this in my falcon 2WD Outback ute. No getting stuck at all but it is very noisy ratcheting around corners. Good value and solution in place of my Hydratrak.
Not tight enough, get in there and tighten your springs more. If it's not tensioned enough it will click, it should ratchet without clicking.
Does it still work when you're turning left and right to gain more traction going up a more serious track???
yep
@Graeme Yamaha you're wrong in a way. They can't disengage if you are hard on the throttle and turning, the tiny springs can't overcome the torque which you are applying.
I use to have one in my rear diff and if you put your foot down the lokka would stay locked on.
It's annoying that they didn't explain this in this video because that is why I'm sceptical of sticking one in my front diff, it may be hard to turn or break something if you have to be on the throttle hard and turn at the same time.
I broke the lokka branded one that was fitted into a 80 series 9.5 inch rear diff. Broke where the springs sit in the casing and made it so it didn't lock anymore and would make a hell of a noise when turning.
I replaced it with a brand called spartan as they had a much beefier spring and detent setup than the lokka.
@Graeme Yamaha as I said, the one I broke was fitted into a ln65 hilux with 80 series diffs and a 350 chev motor, it was in the rear though not the front. Have to say I loved it, for the price it work really well. It drove really well on road too, when it was working correctly I couldn't even hear it and the vehicle drove normally.
I have never driven one with a front auto locker though and in my mind I'm not so sure about fitting them to the front but in saying that I really need to experience it first before making a final judgement.
In the rear though I think they are the best bang for buck you can get.
Hi Steve - it DOES work while you're turning on a track. It only unlocks when the wheel speed for single wheel is GREATER than the input drive from your engine. For example, you're driving up a difficult track. Your engine is pushing you at 2m per second. You turn your wheels left. The lokka keeps driving your left wheel at 2m/s. Your right wheel (following the longer path) is pushed [by the ground] at 2.1m/s. So the lokka UNLOCKS and allws that wheel to travel faster. But it doesn't let it travel any slower than the engine speed (e.g. 2m/s)
Does that make sense? Does it answer your question?
Yes - it will unlock if the track is firm, but if its wheel spinning due to power all the way then it would stay locked. It can change what its doing all the way up the track - so each part of the track might require different action and it can handle that. The front diff fitment is actually the best part of the Lokka design - its actually the best way of locking a vehicle because you still retain almost all of your steering but also get differential action when you need it
Raleigh and the team at 4wdrive systems have a great product and are just good blokes. That's why I have put a lokka in all my vehicles.
Hey bud, any reason why i couldnt buy 2 and put one in the rear aswell?
I have none at the moment..
@@adamposadas4163 give them a call mate - they will talk you through it. I have a 105 landcruiser and bought front and rear lokka and they are going in next week. Depends on car wether it's suited for 2....must be part time 4wd.
Will do, iv just got an MN triton, so should be fine im guessing
@@adamposadas4163 We only do the front for yours - its probably all it needs anyway.
@@4wdsystemsgeartogoannawher754 cool, yeah i ordered one last week
I'm interested in fitting a Lokka in my patrol. My question is, do the edges of the interlocking pieces round off over time?
Good point, curious about the durability of these, myself. I don't know if the bargain price is reflected in the quality of the materials used.
Had one in a 80series years ago, front only ,did 600ks in it no problems
I had these on a gen 1 4 runner with ifs front had them on back and front and they made a huge difference but i will say the rear one can be a bit annoying occasionally it would spool up and let go no damage just noise second when you do tight turns you will hear it clicking away but no big issue but i did find if you were a supermarket carpark making multiple turn it would start spooling up and making it jerky to drive
This was when it was manual when i put a auto in this did not happen any more due to constant drive going to the diff
in front no issues just huge gains :)
I had these for about 5 years and a lot of four wheel driving and it was my daily even when i put v6 in no issue i would happly use these again and will in my mitsubishi mk triton.
Be nice to see that hilux up on the next few videos to see how the lockers perform against granhams Isuzu
Bigger wheels more clearance id say it will surpass the dmax off-road but Grahams would make a nicer car to drive around daily
I'd love to see that too, Graham keeps up with the big trucks in that Dmax and goes (almost) everywhere they can.
Just had this installed in the front of my 19 Dmax and its AWESOME!!!!
Can I please ask how the diff behaves when the DMax is in 2wd? Is it noisy, can you hear it ratcheting or simply if behaves like a open diff. Have a ‘13 Hilux and considering installing one bit concerned on its affect on day 2 day driving. Thx
Yes please explain if it behaves well and if it’s noisey! Looking at one for my dmax
These lockers seems very purposeful
But can those be used in a daily drive vehicles and part time off-roading?
Also can these Auto lockers be shipped internationally?
Mohsin Shaikh I all so would love to know, would it be worth it
The locker is engaged when the front diff is. So as long as you don't daily drive in 4 wheel drive you should be fine I guess.
I fitted one of these to the front of my Y61 Patrol and love it. Much better than a manual locker, don't have to think about. Under load in 4x4 it stays locked, if it gets a bit tight in the steering just back off the loud pedal the diff unlocks and releases the wind up and then back on the accelerator again. With a manual locker you have to stop and hit the switch then drive, stop and hit the switch to turn it back on again. There are about half a dozen companies making this style of auto locking diff around the world, the USA has the most I found when looking around. Google "Lunch Box Locker" , a common name for them.
Currently running a detroit in the back and an arb in the front. A rear auto locker has worked flawlessly for me and I highly recommend it, I haven't run one in the front because i'm running a full time 4x4 the only problem I can really see is steering on track if it doesn't unlock or lock. I highly highly recommend this setup though, it's a good medium.
Manual front hubs on 4by. I have a lokka in front of my ford courier, air locker in the rear. When you turn the front hubs to lock position, that's when the lokka is locked good bit of kit!
Hey there guys, loved this vid sooo much, I ordered a lokka! Problem is, it's been a while since I purchased it and I haven't had an ounce of communication, confirmation, or product from goannawhere! I realise they state up to 5 weeks delay due to demand, but its dragging on now with no returned emails. Has covid forced them out of business???
Looks like some people have waited a few months for them
quick question what happens when you are going up a hill and you need a lokka but you also need to turn will it disengage?
They made a stuff up with describing how these work. Basically, with any drive to the diff, they're locked. If you roll along in 4wd, out of gear and then turn, the locker will disengage. As soon as you accelerate, the locker will lock.
TheMuddyHilux have played with many of these over the years , Detroit made one so did truetrack and many other slight variations of the same design ( many court cases happened 20 years ago ). Both wheels are locked till one wheel drives faster than crown wheel speed this allows the dog clutches ride over each other against the low spring pressure
Discount code still works 2 years later, cheers!
This video deserves a beer 🍻cheers boys love ya work
Thanks mate putting one on the patrol spoke to Raleigh he's a legend getting it in 2 weeks I was gonna put bigger tires but this locker better value for money and the tyres can wait
Is there any clunking or other sounds from the locker in day to day conditions on the road or in tight places on tarmac?
Had one in the back of my 2016 dmax, since sold... lots of clunking on the seal while turning tight corners, especially under load ie up hill. All in all great bit of gear and the ute still hasn't broken an axle and traction super increased
Yes - you will hear it tock around corners - you may not hear it with windows up. Occasionally you will get a metallic clack out of it when you are accelerating heavily out of a tunr when it was unlockerd - its the two halves slapping together under load - doesnt do any damage. That can also happen if you have different rotating tyre diameters - eg different tyres, different pressures, flat tyre or different wear rates on the tyres (eg using an old worn spare). Having sai dthat - its very liveable My 100 has front and rear and most of its life is on the black top around town !
What a great product for the front diff! So simple, yet such an elegant design. Awesome video, thx.
if you can't get your page to load, give the guys a call they are taking orders over the phone, awesome service!
Thx for that - Really sorry about the crash - its taken over a week to fix - had guys working on it full time including the weekends ! Final rebuild occurred only this morning 10 days later !
Best car every built on this channel
So what was the go with the Zero Dollar Zooks steering auto locked up front then?
The type of auto locker installed in that probably has replaced the side gears with the plates shown in the vehicle. For Suzukis, that setup doesn't like to unlock easy and can easily snap CVs/axles too. The alternative is to retain appropriate side gears which function the same as the plates, but ratchet more easily.
Funny I came across this video ... I had to throw the rear locker on in my tractor trailer today to get through some mud in a customers yard... gotta love a locker
I understand that the outside wheel can freely spin faster in a corner, and so it works great when driving forwards. Will it work in reverse though?
Yes. I have one in my Patrol, and it works in reverse, with a BUT - it causes windup on full lock in reverse when reversing uphill with a lot of load, such as when multi-point turning on a switchback. Solution is to use less power if possible and use less steering lock. However, that maybe would not happen in a vehicle that is not centre diff locked (the Patrol does not have a centre diff but a fixed drive transfer case). Reversing without load not a problem. I believe that when on full lock in a vehicle with CV shafts they are most prone to damage whether Lokka'd or not, if too much power is applied.
The operation of the locker reverses when you are reversing or engine braking, so it it works just as well in both directions.
Yes it does - everything is symmetrical, it also works in reverse principle too - few people are aware of this - so downhill engine descending is much better - you can no longer lock op the wheel in the air(or on scrabbly slippery ground) when feathering the brake to slow you down which causes the wheel on the ground to double its speed and literally accelerate you down the hill !
4WD Systems Gear to Goannawhere actually even act like a anti skid by not allowing one wheel on the axle to lock , if that makes sense ? So one wheel on tarmac the other on dirt , brake hard the one on the dirt will keep turning
@@stephenhilton9262 . That doesn't make sense, you're braking the wheel, not the axle
Turning and loosing traction will both produce un-equal wheel rotation/travel on either side. How does the unit (w/c doesn't come with a steering angle sensor) determine which action is occurring in order to un-lock the locker? What parameters does the unit need to experience before it starts to un-lock itself? It will be good to know its limits for engagement to avoid this in case you might have to do some turns in certain hill climbs.
The first thing to undertanding is to think of this an Automatic Unlocker ! They dont sense slip to lock - they mechanically (through two opposing sets of camming actions ) detect when a wheel is trying to roll faster than the diff is driving the wheel - and then disengage it. If the wheel tries to roll faster than the diff is turning (which can only ever occur on a hard surface while cornering) it unlocks - when it slows down in speed to the rest of the diff - it rengages.
Assuming its the same as a detroit? If fitted in the rear beware of snap over steer in short wheel base part time 4x4's. Especially in the rain.
Same principle but very different mechanism
Been looking to get one for along time now but been skeptical.
The thing I cannot understand as per the video is how can you have both wheels off the ground in a driveway with one wheel held and able to turn the other wheel?
That is essentially the same scenario as 4wding one wheel on hard ground and the other in the air.
How does it work to lock both wheels when one is unloaded 4wding, but also do the opposite and unlock when one is unloaded
It does not allow either wheel to rotate slower than the carrier, but with the right conditions it can unlock one side and let it spin ahead.
So when 4WDing the carrier is going to turn both wheels at the same speed, and when cornering, the outer wheel is allowed to skip ahead slightly while the inner wheel stays locked to the carrier. If the inner wheel loses traction it will only do so until the speed matches that of the outer wheel and then they will be locked together again.
Basically the ground can spin one wheel faster than the other, but the carrier can only drive them at the same speed. This means a one wheel spin-up is not possible.
Wouldn't it would just keep disengaging when your trying to steer up a technical track??
That's what I was thinking, also, wouldn't it just disengage with any amount of force on the opposite wheel? Old mate was just holding the wheel and it unlocked when 'going around a corner'
It does not allow wheel to spin slower that diff if force is applied to diff, so in some corner cases (with negative rim offset) steering might be harder. But wheels can freely rotate faster that diff, it locks only when wheel resists to diff rotation.
@@MitchDenham when there is force on the drive shaft then both wheels spin at the same speed but one wheel has the ability to roll fasters than the other around a corner
yeah I was thinking that as well
Re turning actually it does not disengage in the true sense. To turn 1 wheel can turn faster than the other but not slower
Had one sent all the way to UK a while back for the front of my Trooper, still the cheapest bet, fitted to a used diff ready for a Saturday swap. By the way guys its "affect" the drive not "effect". Trooper comes with plate type rear LSD as stock. Should be unstoppable.
That lux is a beaut can we see more of it and specs
Modified n70 on Facebook
Its for sale aswell
How does it differentiate between needing to unlock when turning on the road and staying locked when maneuvering off-road when you need it to stay locked?
@4WD Action
Still wondering why Sooty doesn't have a front locker! I suspect it would make the show boring when one truck drives through everything and the others are struggling....
wow ............... great video , well done, thank you ........ I have lock right in front of my Ford Ranger and Ford F350 1 Ton
I'm no mechanic, but in seems easy to install. Can you do this on any make 4 wheel drive? I drive a 2017 2.2 Ford Ranger and I'm from Namibia. Really love the 4WD action videos
Hallo Kobus, jy behoort te kan. Waar bly jy? Groete Marinus
I recently took a front Lokka out of my 80-series. It requires a particular driving style (i.e. no acceleration or braking while turning), and the front end will fight the steering wheel straight anytime you press the accelerator with 4WD engaged. Not good for winter driving.
How can you turn without acceleration ? This is done only when going downhill but then you are braking LOL . What about turning and climbing or turning on a 4x4 path on even road ? A manual locker needs to be set to off while turning uphill ... If this locker does not disengage then we have problems ....
"How can you turn without acceleration ?" by coasting. Duh.
"How can you turn without acceleration ?" by coasting, duh."A manual locker needs to be set to off while turning uphill" yes, and you have the option of turning it off.
Run on I'm mypatrol and they're unreal.
Why don't you have one in sooty shuano?
Totally agree that a locker up front is more beneficial on an IFS vehicle. I will say having a lunchbox locker on my IFS Ranger I really wish it was selectable, steering can be a real pain and you can’t use it on the street with heavy snow. That being said with an lsd in the rear and the front locker there’s almost no place I can’t go.
hey mate i was toying with puttin g one of these in a px1 ranger.. you saying you would go something else ?
It’s less of a bother now that I don’t use the ranger for anything but off road, In areas where I don’t need 4WD it makes turning a little bit annoying. So if I come to a tight turn in sand where I don’t need 4WD I can unlock the hubs. So I find myself taking it out or 4WD more often than just keeping it in 4WD until I hit another obstacle. A selectable locker is nice to have, ox lockers have some manually activated lockers. They might be twice the price though and require more for the install like running a cable and a lever. It’s a convenience and you have to decide if the extra money is worth it. I have a electric lockers in my Jeep and don’t trust them yet, my air locker broke, you don’t have to worry about lunchbox lockers breaking and the price is great.
Where was the comparison with the rear diff locker? Where was the comparison to a manual locker? Kind of a misleading video title there.
Weird because I took the title as the difference between no locker and having a front locker...
And that’s exactly what I got
The whole videos a lie mate the lockers don't disengage when turning they disengage when the force turning the wheel isn't coming from the engine. Not sure if they don't know or are peddling their product
Great video. I have Detroit tru tracs front and rear on my 99xj and they are fantastic. You only know they are operating because your still moving forward thru off camber and hectic terrain.
Issac Stuckhardt
Thinking of doing the same on my 97 xj. It’s also a daily driver, any thing I should be concerned about because it’s a daily driver in a state with all 4 seasons. Lots of snow!!
Cheers mate I’m a huge fan of the Hiluxs 🤘🏽I also have a 100 series 💪🏼 greetings from Austria
Great explanation Shauno, clear but one thing missing. Some differentials must be timed, some don't. So best for a DIY mechanic, mark pinion and crowned so they can go together as they were before. No reason to go into the technical details, just mark and they will be OK.
What about the 2010+ hiluxes with traction control. Wouldnt it interfere with it?
will only make it better.
They are basically locked unless your costing in a turn . They are rough , loud , jerky ect , but they do work I’ve had plenty in both ends , now that I matured ( got a trailer ) I run a welded in both ends with hydro steering . Turning radius is horrible but predictable ... I have a solid axle 1986 Xtra cab
Great video. However, I would be very hesitant putting a locker in the front if driving on snow/ice as it will affect steering. But if snow/ice isn’t a condition a front locker (and one in the rear) is a damn good option.
Awesome video. I have bought one for my HJ61 Cruiser.
Curious as I just thought about it, what about “automatic traction control” how does that affect the lokka on the road?
Traction control and lockers like this are actually a very good combination.
Peter Moore, sounds promising, but if you have the traction control on, whilst driving on the road (2019 triton and pathfinders) wouldn’t that damage the lokka? I imagine using “auto traction” in the rain on bitumen roads, what if you forget and your doing 80+ kilometres.
Just curious
Seems to work on everything we've thrown at it. The traction control detects wheel spin (or rather a significant difference in wheel speed) to start workikg - The Lokka prevents that from happening in the first place - so it doesnt geta chane to work !
Awesome! Sounds like my next purchase, thanks for the reply!
4WD Systems Gear to Goannawhere most traction control requires a 30% differential in speed , well actual pulse rate from the speed detectors . So yep the traction control should not effect it . But would think it might upset stability control if fitted.
Had one in the front of my ra rodeo for 3 years best mod ever i keep up with the bigboys
What happens with the auto locker then if you have wheel lift when you turn a corner?
It does not unlock with steering input so it will stay locked. As shown in the vid it allows one wheel to overrun the other wheel. So when turning a corner the outside wheel unlocks because it wants to spin faster then the axle rpm. In summery one wheel can spin faster then axle rpm(outside wheel in a turn) but both wheel must always travel at least as fast as axle rpm.
My lock right only disengages when off throttle
They only unlock when not under load. They can be a pain when u are in a tuff spot.
I think the gist of this is that this is a great deal for your money, not a trial of all the market makes. You pays your money and takes your choice.
@@shaungrubb6598 yep totally correct. I really think they do differ vehicle to vehicle install to install. I fitted free wheeling hubs at the same time. In a spot where its being a bitch to turn unlock one front wheel
I got a question say if you are doing hill climbing with rocks and you get wheel lift in the back and you have a front lokka won’t it just gain speed and you have to use your brakes?
I think you're doing well to lift back wheels going up hill and gaining speed 😜
An Aussie lunch box locker here in the united states is about $300.00
I have always heard great things about the Aussie lockers. To bad they dont make them for my tundra.
@@mikewest712
Did you try contacting Aussie because they might be working on and eventually making a locker for your truck
@@andrewinsinga2993 nobody makes one for the 07+ tundras. I dont think it can be done due to the third member design.
@@mikewest712
Ford used a third member in the 9" rear and I believe aussie make a locker for it
Isn't that $300 US which now a days because trump doesn't like China has caused currency conversions to turn to crap. That's about $450 here in Shrimp coin.
Lokka is cheap and very effective, I have one in front and one on the rear, best option to start is in the rear in my opinion,
They did address some of these points in the video - especially around IFS.
Unless you have a decent LSD in the rear already. No point pulling that out for an auto lokka when you could have both.
@@alexdevries7594 yes you are right but LSD do not stays decent for long time,
Jeep Garage yep, if my lsd gives up I’ll put a locker in. Probably a manual one though.
what size rims and tires are you running on the hilux?
8:27 can someone explain why the other wheel wouldn't just spin when the other gets stuck because it unlocks itself whilst turning ?
What happens in reverse? Open or auto lock still?
I would say that like a 1 way lsd its open in reverse.
It locks in both directions.
Yep - locked in both directions. The cross pin pushes on the cam slot in either direction.
Thx guys - correct - it works the same in either direction. It also works in reverse principle - ie engine braking while downhill descending !
Where I come from we don't call what you are describing as an auto locker, we call it a limited slip. I bought a dodge power wagon in 1975 that had Dana 60's with limited slip front and back. I used it for 10 years in Detroit plowing snow in winter and offroad bushwhaking in the summer, it was the best most capable truck you ever saw, I mean it was nearly unstoppable. A positraction differential will not only not steer it will walk sideways downhill when it loses traction, major problem weather plowing snow or on a trail offroad. The limited slip will throw the power to the highest wheel, which will prevent it from walking sideways downhill.
I wonder about the longevity of this system, where teeth come in and out of mesh looks like a high ware zone.
sunjabib ahladeen this is what I’m worried about
@@davontemartin5752 There is no problem with longevity because the gear is able to rachet backwards in the same way as a socket set does it then engages again when the drive force is applied .
Maybe the springs wear out
Its the same concept of uncyhcronized/race transmissions
3 year warranty
Hello from the US. I love your videos. I own a 1989 dodge raider 3.0 liter. It came loaded with headlight washers, horizon ball, Suspension seat, and best of all a factory rear LSD. But I look forward to adding this exact locker to the front, it's only $350. Keep the videos coming