Make A Moscow Mule Copper Mug Pt 2
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
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Even I am a noob when it comes to certain skills. Like soldering for example....I suck at soldering. But hey! I figured it out eventually and it was worth the frustration and tears.
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From a plumbers standpoint, if your trying to get clean solder joints, you have to sand the surface of what your soldering first then apply the flux. I understand the look aspect, but you can't just add flux and expect a clean solder joint. Just my two cents. The surface must be sanded and clean. Looks great though.
thank you
A scotch brite pad cleans copper exceptionally well, as a plumber I don’t even by the sand paper rolls anymore
A quick tip about soldering Samurai the solder will only flow wherever there is flux via capillary action so you can use this to your advantage by only putting on enough flux in controlling where it runs to on the joint. Hopefully this makes sense great vid enjoyed watching it
thanks samurai for not making us wait a week for part 2, another awesome project
Try a Dark and Stormy. Same recipe, but with dark rum instead of vodka. You need a decent dark rum and a really good, earthy ginger beer.
Totally.. so refreshing. Has to be gosling's rum though
Nick Dawes. Kinda correct. I can't remember which spelling version is the right one, but there's " Dark 'N' Stormy" and then "Dark and Stormy". I think legally the first one is for when you use Goslings. You must use the other spelling for any other brand of rum. (Or it's vice versa).
chunkymurps I remember reading that somewhere too, that Goslings trademarked one of the two. That's how delicious it is, a dark rum manufacturer attempted to corner the market on it. However, I tried Goslings, but it was way better with Myer's Dark Rum and the St. John Brewers Ginger Beer that I found at Total Wine. I haven't done a thorough study of all the options, but with that particular ginger beer (and ginger beers can differ like night and day), Myer's Dark Rum was far superior. Don't forget the lime and if you like lime, muddle it a bit to release the essential oils from the peel.
Yep, dark and stormy. Goslings is great. I tried it for the first time in New Zealand the other week. Try Bundaberg rum and also the Bundaberg ginger beer. Here it's called Queensland diesel, but its the same thing. Bundaberg is a bit stronger flavour than goslings though.
Bundy Dark and Story is nice... Me i prefer a Smooth and Shifty. Bundy Rum with Bundaberg Sarsparella.
Jesse a little more detail of what you did right and wrong. Really like the hammered copper. Looks sweet.
I appreciate the modesty. I like your videos and no one is perfect
I was sitting at a restaurant last night and heard a couple of guys at the next table order Moscow Mules from the bar. I had to tell my wife the whole story of your copper mug build to explain my laughter. I'd never heard of this particular drink before your mug series so you may be contributing to its growing popularity! I definitely plan to try one.
Awesome, Jesse! I'm glad you kept up. Enjoying your work (woodworking, copper, editing) a lot. Thank you for sharing!
Greetings from Germany
I’m a jeweler/welder/fabricator and I’m putting together some workshops for some people of a variety of skill levels. One of the workshops is going to be making a Moscow mule mug, which is why I’m here. I’m trying to see as many different approaches as possible. I haven’t decided whether I’m going to have them raise the vessel or solder it like you did, although the handle will definitely be soldered on. A couple of soldering hacks that I’ve discovered in my journey from tiny jewelry to 4’ chandeliers: copper is super sensitive to heat sinks. Your chisel was preventing you from getting the solder to flow because all of the heat was being sucked up by the steel. Solder follows heat. What you could have done to prevent this is cut a solderite board or other heat reflective surface to fit inside the mug between your chisel and the copper. This also would protect your chisel from getting annealed. Speaking of solderite board, this is the best surface to solder on. It’s cuttable, drillable, and you can set it up as a soldering jig. I have also found that when soldering big 3D copper and brass pieces, you need to bounce the heat from your torch around so it’s like you have 2 torches at once. This prevents the piece from becoming its own heat sink. The absolute greatest thing to do this (in my opinion) is a magnesia block. It’ll shoot that heat right back on the piece. The drawback to magnesia blocks is that they have a tendency to crumble over time, so they get messy, but you can use all of those crumbles in a steel pie pan lazy Susan for some extra spicy soldering (also look into pumice soldering pans, which are useful in way too many ways to list here). But yeah, a mag block will pump up even the wimpiest torch to make it work. You can also make a full soldering heat fort with fire bricks or solderite boards, but you lose a lot of your movement, so a lazy susan is pretty necessary. Next, in order for solder to flow, you need to make sure you have clean metal and a tight seam. Solder is not meant to fill gaps like people are always trying to force it to. I mean, it *can* fill gaps, you just don’t have the strongest possible seam, unless you’re just filling a small seam gap with lower temp solder for aesthetic purposes and the rest of the seam is good. Copper is an inherently dirty metal and solder will not flow if there is any dirt, grease, attitude, whatever getting in there. Keep your solder clean (store in ziplock or plastic container) and clean your metal. Jewelers use an acid solution called pickle. Sparex No. 2 is the most commonly used brand, but I’m a big fan of Rio’s Nickel Pickle, which can be used at room temp. I use a big clear plastic bin with a lid for my nickel pickle, since they don’t make crock pots big enough for my work. Deactivate it with baking soda and let it evaporate and take the remnants to hazardous waste. Don’t pour down the drain bc of all of the copper dissolved in it. Side note- when pickle turns extra green, that means there’s lots of copper dissolved in it. If you put a piece of steel in this solution, it will automatically copper plate anything. This can be used to your advantage, like if you want a dark black patina or you’re doing a eutectic bond with fine solder or gold like the Etruscans did with granulation. But if you don’t want to copper plate a non-copper item, keep steel far away. Use copper, brass, wood, or plastic tongs to remove items from pickle. You can also use citric acid as pickle, but it kinda sucks and you still have to dispose of it with hazardous waste. After pickling, I also will clean my seam with Dawn dish soap and fine grit sandpaper or a brass brush. Keep your fingers away from the seam once it’s clean. If you have dirty solder, you can clean it with Dawn and sandpaper, too. All of this stuff will definitely make your soldering life easier. I tend to use high heat jewelers solder when I do pretty much anything because it’s neater. I use only hard and medium. I have an oxy/air silver smith torch now, but I have soldered all sorts of things with just a handheld propane plumbers torch or a little butane torch. When I have more room, I’d like to have my silver smith, a smith little, a small welding torch, and a big cutting torch, but for now, I’m super happy with my silver smith torch and its 1 tank. Once you buy a b tank, refills of acetylene are only $30! You can’t beat it. A b tank of acetylene might seem small, but it goes a really long way with a silver smith torch, even with the biggest tip. 10/10 would recommend.
Love your work! I noticed your challenges (I’ve been there too) what solved my soldering problems was a combination of 3 things 1) cleaning the metal before soldering with a pickle (eco friendly solution in a crock pot) 2) a more precise flame (sharper point instead of the bushy flame). 3) using charcoal, fire brick/stone or a soldering dish to solder the project on. This is a life and money saver! Especially with big projects because the heat from the stone/charcoal helps keep the heat consistent and in place where you are trying to solder. Hope that helps ease your frustrations with future projects!
Absolutely love the way you put the bottom on this piece, I’m totally taking that from you hahah !
Keep up the great work!
Nice to see the Steele chisel is being properly used.
That is a beautiful tool. I think I would look for excuses to use it
Awesome little project, love how you try new stuff and also show how you have difficulties too, they will be a great show piece for the rest of your life
Hi Jesse, welcome back. Good to see you. When making components to solder, the best way is to " in situ solder or braze", as for example Yorkshire plumbing fittings. As in all material jointing, preparation is the key. Use masking fluid to control the runs. Thanks for your effort, Pete
I have to say I enjoyed watching you struggle your way through this. Many times I noticed inefficient techniques but I have actually been trained as a silversmith so there was much time learning all those things. Bravo on your mug.
Loved watching you struggle your way through this and figuring it all out. Felt your pain when you finally cut the base off. Noted that the twin cup got binned. But I’m sure the Moscow mule tasted the sweeter because you got your mug in the end!
Baller! Very much enjoyed this two parter.
Awesome mug and even better learning process. It's inspiring to see someone so good at a craft try something new. Cheers *clink*
Way to persevere Jesse! That drink and mug look delicious!
Great work on the mug. Thank you for fixing the horn of the anvil. That was bugging the hell out of me last video lol
When we soldered copper stuff in metal shop at school we used to take a thick bar of soft solder, hammer it a little till it was about 1mm thick and flat at the end, then use tin snips to cut little ribbons of solder off that flat bit. You then flux the joint, lay out the bits of solder along the joint and heat evenly with oxy acetylene torch (neutral flame I think...), the thin ribbons of solder melt nice and evenly and fairly quickly and run nicely into the joint (all at once so you don't keep reheating, melting and oxidising it). If I recall correctly we did also first clean the copper with dilute hydrochloric acid to remove oxides.
I thought that Mule cup was gonna kick your Mule ass !! Way to persevere Jess
Hey man, looks good! General soldering tip: solder will follow the heat. So burning a torch right on it won't do much good. For soldering from the outside like you attempted first you would have to heat the whole thing to the melting temp of the solder. Or heat the sides so that the sides heat the bottom.
Good job on remembering the flux. Can you make your next project a wood based soldering iron holder with a sturdy heat resistant resting pad?
A lot of work for a drink! Hahah j/k! Cutting the lime with the chisel at the end seals the deal. Sweet project!
This was a good watch, you should make some mini keg beer mugs!!! That would be gnarly!
If there is a next time for mugs, try some automotive style worm drive clamps (t bolt if you can find them) to hold it together while soldering. They'll keep it circular and be as snug as you want.
Cool build! And not concerned about leaching from drinking a Moscow Mule out of a copper mug. All the hoopla is from a study back in 1997 that was repeated recently by Iowa’s Alcoholic Beverages Division as an advisory with no guidelines on the duration of time before the acidity of the drink causes an issue or quantity of drinks required to be dangerous. Heck copper water lines could leach if the water hits a pH of 6 according to the facts in the study. Balance...that is all that is needed.
A tinker! " Someone who repairs kitchenware" bummed I missed the last beer drinking sesh in burien... next time
Awesome mug! Next time you make some Moscow mules try adding a couple pieces of mint leaves or a little mint simple syrup..... total game changer
Nice job Jesse. Great things never happen in your comfort zone
Nice, defo have to try one of these with some dark spiced rum. Brasso will bring the finish on that up a treat.
You did a good job Bro, If you make another one use the MAPP gas torch the one with the yellow bottle. The reason why is because MAPP gas burns with a hotter flame, thats why you had a little trouble getting the solder to flow right on the bottom I noticed. When you are soldering copper plate and pipe you have to heat the holy crap out of the cooper to get the solder to flow right, also silver solder still isn't good to use when making stuff that food and drinks will be used in, you need to the cooper together that is more food safe. Just thought I would give you some advice bud!
Big fan of the Moscow Mule! I am definitely going to give this a whirl!
yay, thank you for thanking us. glad you're in a better frame.... take care
Cutting the lime with your chisel - awesome! It's probably sharper than most of our kitchen knives.
Question: would paste solder have made it easier? I'm thinking a bead around the inside ledge before inserting the bottom would allow you to just heat the rim and it would flow.
I cheated with mine. Thee inch pipe capped; with a handle of 3/8 tube. Weighs a lot and lives in the freezer.
I really don't have anything to offer... I've been watching most of your vids and only wish I could aspire to be that patient and focused. I'm glad things worked out for this channel. You do a great job. All I can offer is if you make your way to Japan, feel free to crash at my house and I can have you meet a few of my friends who are traditional Japanese carpenters. You could make a vacation/company trip out of it. Something for thought.
Keep up the good work.
I'm glad that you enjoy Phillips products! Enjoy your bevy!!
Inconceivable! You must have switched the poison. Cool video man. Enjoyed it.
I am SO happy you are using lead-free silver solder; I was worried!
I'm glad you got some good use out of Alec's chisel.
I'm not a health & safety nut job usually, but just a heads up, the rosin used in solder as a flux is very toxic. if you look at the solder you used, go and cut the tip off. If it looks hollow in the middle then it is embedded with flux. i dunno how bad it is to consume but it is really bad to breath. otherwise this video was awesome. love the content dude!
Note to camera crew: ( you hired one, yes?) LIGHT. The mug is in the dark. The subject matter needs to be clearly visible. ANGLES. Frequently his hands block what he is doing.
Samurai: if you don't have a crew, I suggest rigging an overhead view like cooking shows use, and at least two other angles, one on each side that you can edit between. If you want an editor, let me know, I'm a retired filmmaker. 😎 P.S. I love your channel, dude. I wish I was back up in BC to shoot for you--cuz I'd just trade for apprenticeship.
on your next one instead of rolling the edges over on the bottom square the bottom edge of the cylinder, paint it with flux then set it on a piece of copper thats been flattened and is a little larger than the cylinder then apply heat and solder all the way around the outer edge, trim off the excess with snips , file clean and your done much less time consuming thanks for the video i think i will make some shot glasses with that method i like that hammered copper look
I am glad you finished the project. Like you I am a noob at soldering and enjoy my woodwork a lot but the satisfaction of the finished product is worth it. BTW: what is the ingredients for a Moscow Mule ?
I'm a Machinery student we do welding and stuff..I know that woods is your expertises. I think the way you solder the cup is you melt the solder first before the cup gets even hot and your flame is not enough you need more gas. so first you need to heat up your cup then add the solder but don't melt it with a fire and also add more flux.. Goodluck :D
I have old copper flashing laying around, and a new project to start. 🍻
Geeezz folks, if you're gonna get sick drinking from copper, ya'll better change out your plumbing like immediately. If ever I feel the need to drink a moscow mule in the traditional manner, I'll buy a hunk of 6 inch copper pipe and solder a cap on it heh. It took you so long to make that thing that I ran out of vodka, now I've got to run to the store.........
Doesnt quite work the same way. The copper pipe in your plumbing is handling water which has a neutral ph. The lime juice does not.
I would probably try the raising technique, it would keep the whole piece solid so you wouldnt have to worry about brazing or soldering. May have to have a thicker sheet to start with using that technique though. Im not sure how it would work on copper but i would imagine it would. I believe raising is usually used in making solid silver cups and the like. Nice work though man, i just discovered your channel and i like your videos. Keep up the good work.
A small tip use HCL acid and Zinc combined better weld with solder much faster and easy but be careful of the smell
Got a soldering tip for ya if if you dip the solder in the flux it's self and then solder your already fluxed parts you get a better run on your bead and definitely next time spend the money on a good torch mars out !
Note to add to correct flux application..
Way too much heat for soft soldering, and remember the solder will flow to your heat source too.
Actually several things make this easier to do.
First turn yourself 1/4" flanges on each long edge in opposite directions .
That way you can put one inside the other hammer them flat, and they'll lock together for you.
Turn 1/4" flange outside on bottom, and then mark your bottom piece to match cup base, but add 1/4" outside of that.
That way your folding bottom itself over the flange you have on the base with hammer.
Don't beat the flanges in either location to death, are you will cause it to crack, and split away from the rest.
Then lightly sand are scuff up the seams then lite amount of flux, just enough to cover seams.
Use the propane torch instead of Mep gas, and just heat it while holding solder on the same place.
It'll melt just as copper changes color to bluish tint.
Then simply follow solder behind torch as you go around base are down seams.
Same applies for attachment of any handles you want to attach.
Simple sheet metal rules of trade, are plumbing as far as sanding flux heat and soldering.
had you been using silver solder
Love your lime cutting technique. 😁
samurai, i admire your "get up and do" courage. use a very small propane torch, maybe that is too much heat from yours. steel wool both surfaces to get clean copper. keep the joint to solder upright to avoid any solder running away. flux the joint and add small pieces of cut solder along the outside joint and heat the solder and copper evenly along it with the torch. once the solder starts melting it will settle into the joint and hopefully it shouldn't run off or go too deep into the joint. once done I tend to clean and smooth the joint with some steel wool.
Great video and project man, but please if you are going to use the mug often you need to coat the iner side with tin. Becose coper oxide that creates on surface of the coper plate is pretty toxic, and when you coat that with tin you prevent creation of coper oxide. And a tip for cleaning the coper to get that red/orange color, simple add some salt and vinegar on a sponge or cloth and wipe the coper surface, and it will be super clean and beautiful. Trust me on this becouse I come from a land that has mastered the art of coper pots, and I studied chemistry.
I think that i just witnessed the most satisfying first sip ever!
Same type of vessel that made all those Arctic Explorers walk in circles . The lead will make you nuts.
Great work Jesse! Love your vids mate!
Was the other mug a success too? Great video!
Nice , i just had a Mexican mule today you should try one of those , nice job, looks awesome!
Now you should try spinning one on the lathe. Also, flattened 1/2" copper pipe might be easier for the handle.
I think you're headed in the right direction. If your not sure what you're doing, always keep your rim tight.
Looks good Jesse!
Nice mug! 😁👍🏻
Samurai -- If you ever try another job that requires soldering, cleaning & tinning are often the key. If I'm having real problems, after mechanical cleaning, I'll go as far as cleaning with isopropyl and then pre-tinning the metal with solder. I've have good luck using this with tubing, sheet metal, and wire. Cleanliness is the key. Tinning has the benefit of keeping the solder right where you want it, and the amount you need -- way down.
Looks like that fought you most of the way. Great work!
You need to sand the joint clean first. Then flux. Then solder. Without sanding it, the solder will act like its hydrophobic of the joint.
Hey nice done! :)
But... Yes but :D why dont u try to spin the that copper on the late u have, over a wooden mold? Then to sodering will be used and zero chance of leaking. Sory if i have speling mistakes
Classic samurai with the chisel cutting the lime silver coated lungs and all
Using a old-fashioned flame heated soldering iron would have done a good job. The newer electric irons, used for copper roofing and such, would be even better, but they are pricey. The old ones are just a hunk of copper on a handle, pretty affordable.
That's a nice mug. I would be proud, if I had made it. I hope you are!
Alec Steele should make a set out of wood now!
A really big soldering iron would be the ticket. You can find big old school copper ones about an inch square that you heat with a torch at junk stores for not very much.
Great vid! Maybe a larger grip to fit all four fingers (on version 2.0)? Thumbs up for the channel!
Love the look of these two new videos. Did you get a camera upgrade? (Didn't read any other comments, sorry if this has already been discussed)
I need to get myself one of those beautiful hand made damascus steel lime cutters. I hope you got the lime juice off of there quick-like.
love your channel! Keep up the awesome work!
Moscow mule or not, that's gonna b the next piece in my forgotten Friday arsenal.
My God Jessie, that's gonna be a $1000 copper cup by the time you're done. Great stuff though. Gotta love the dedication.
Are you going to tin the inside of the mug so the acids in the drink arent stripping amounts of copper that you can ingest?
These tracks are nice. Great taste
Dude your such a goof, lol I love this channel! nice work my friend
cheers to the soldering hack on youtube!
Nice work pushing thru it Samurai, like a true Samurai... Now.. I've watched the Headless Man on the other side of the pond, and his silver soldering skills are fantastic. He ain't no scrub. Scrub is the kind that get no love from TLC! Anyhow he gets it flowin' really really thin and controls heat with fire bricks and what have ya.... My 1 cents' worth. Great video!!!
Hey Samuri, in the future use flux. Trust me, makes soldering SOOOO much easier. Even if the solder is rosin core flux goes a long way. Get the copper hot, then the flux will just pull in the solder.
Wow amazing work.
Great job, looks great!!!!
My wife loves those. I think I might have to make one for her
Gotta love them Mule!!!
I feel your frustration, at first when I had plumbing missions to take care of, I treated them all like cabinet joinery. But really it takes the right tools and a little "RUclips university" to finish projects
I want to say the flux us probably what was causing you trouble. jewellers use a special flux for silver solder, but I couldn't day exactly what it is without a little research. If you were using a plumbing flux that might not have cut it. Also jeweler's silver solder is probably of a slightly different composition, and is pretty forgiving. Just some thoughts, cool project!
Awesome! How thick should the copper plate be?
As a metal worker I would suggest using a soldering iron, not a blow torch. Copper is fun to work with.
Would probably hot tin the inside to prevent too much copper leaching into the drink, and so the copper doesnt patina on the inside. Old French copper pans are hot tinned on the inside.
But as others have said, it would only be bad if you let the drink sit for a long time.
Thanks to Alec for that Lime Cutter xD.And if you wanna make that cup real shiny just dip it in coke for one hour and scrub with cloth !
Looks like a cool little mug. The soldering would have been a lot less painful with some flux.
You should have prepared them first. The trick is to use colophony/rosin or brazing fat or whatever you guys call it there, and apply the soldering alloy on each part separately, so that you have nice soldering surfaces already covered with alloy BEFORE assembling the thing. Then, when you assemble it, all you need is to heat it up and apply a little more alloy if needed - it will be literally sucked in each gap between the surfaces you have previously prepared. Okay, now go and do the whole thing again, The Right Way!
I guess you figured it out but when soldering copper, 1. Clean the copper til it shines 2. apply flux 3. Heat the metal until solder will melt on it with the heat removed. The trick is flowing the solder over hot metal with the torch removed.
Hey Samurai, you're missing an ingredient........simple syrup. It's easy to make, equal parts sugar and hot water by volume. Stir to dissolve the sugar then chill. Add to taste (about 1/4-1/2 ounce). Cheers! Pro tip: Try using Titos vodka.
If you take a piece of flat copper larger then your base and then take your led free solder and make it the same diameter as the inside of the cup, heat it up you'll get a nice clean joint as long as the mating surfaces are tight. Then just trim off the excess copper on the base. Of coarse don't forget the flux
hmm, might be easier for some of us (without such steady hands) to use sketchup and or sculptris to make one that can be printed, then do a casting with molten metal.
though to be honest I half expected you to make a wooden mug with samurai carved into it similar to a wooden block print.