Hi Bill, I like your setup with the stainless planter tank and the electric hot plates. Especially glad you like my bluing solutions. I don't have a good answer for the number of bluing cycles except keep going until you are satisfied. I started rust bluing in 1972 but I'm still learning things from my customers. I will always try and answer questions through my website.
@@MarkLee-ye2ii Wow….! From the man himself. Been using your stuff for years and have taught many amateur restorers how. Thank you for talking the time to comment. Honored.
I’ve been restoring firearms over 20 years now. I started out because I could buy damaged firearms much cheaper yet I like my firearms to look very new. I actually got very good using Brownells cold blue. However, when restoring a revolver, the metal other than the cylinder was so cheap material, cold bluing was impossible. I ordered the same express blue and after watching your video, I’m about to expand my abilities in firearm restoration.
Bill, I love your videos and this week I am refinishing my 1894 32 special, and yes thank you for all your guidance and help on my projects! I truly enjoy it and this will be fun #5. Thank you!
Really appreciate this video as I have a P14 Enfield that I received with a ton of surface rust but minimal pitting. This method will work great with it from what I've seen. Thanks!
Cold blue was never really designed as a finish blue...we use it mostly for small area touch ups. Thank you for commenting, and especially thank you for subscribing.
Just did 6 sxs shotguns with mark lee express. Very easy to use. 3 passes was all we did on most. I did a 4th on one or 2 but I don’t think it did much. If the solution won’t rust the metal, it’s pretty much as good as it gets. I like all your videos. Love the restoration. Thanks
I tell you what, this is the third video in the last hour that talks about that R.H. Angier Gunsmithing book. That tells me that I need to start looking for a copy online. Your bluing job couldn’t have turned out any better 👍🏻👍🏻
I would use a Heat Gun. I don’t like a direct flame on the barrel. Cleaner, no gas on the metal. I would probably remove the receiver from the barrel. Carding Wheel would probably be superior. Kerosine for 24 hours is good for a soak. Mark Novak of Anvil Gunsmithing uses Kerosine as the bluing starts to take a set on the steel.
I've also been using Mark Lee's rust bluing and it is great. I agree 3 passes usually gets you to full color but I have normally been doing 5 just to get to uniform color. I will say on Winchester nickel steel, I've had trouble sometimes getting it to full color and have done 6-10 times to get to full uniform color. I do prefer the old rust bluing look.
Yes...I mentioned in the video that some steel alloys can be difficult. It was the Winchesters that I was referencing. Thanks for being here, watching, and commenting!
Your march to 10,000 subscribers will happen quicker then you think if you keep putting out videos like this. I know I'll be referencing your videos once I start rebluing this winter
@SixRoundsStudio I've been watching your videos for a few months, lots and lots of great information. I've collected 2 or 3 old Cooeys that are in rough shape, perfect guns to learn on as there are a million of them here in Canada. Been watching some of Mark Novaks videos on repairing/refurbishing stocks.
I typically repeat the application until the bluing solution does not create any rust on the barrel. I know this is overkill for the color but the protection factor goes up exponentially. I blued a Drilling of mine a few years ago and used it as a test example for wear and corrosion resistance. So far no rust anywhere. This method of bluing is much better all the way around than cold blue (that stinks) and seems to be more corrosion resistant than caustic bluing.
Rust blue is a very safe and cost effective way to get into bluing, and the results are usually stunning if done well. Regarding number of coats??? As Mark Lee, who makes this product, said in a comment here on the channel...each person applying the product needs to achieve the results that speak best to them. Thank you for watching and commenting. That is important and I appreciate it!!
Rust bluing is far superior in looks to modern DuLite or Hot Salts Bluing. Anyone who can polish metal, use steel wool and cotton patches can master rust blue.
Per the instructions on the express blue bottle, it says to neutralize with water and baking soda after the final carding. I noticed that you went directly to the oil. Will that step be necessary. You did a beautiful job on that rifle.
Hello I'm a young gunsmith from Finland, I've never blued a gun, but I've been interested in blueing for a long time, but I can't order mark lee express blue or any other blueing liquid from America, the only thing you can get in Finland is Birchwood Perma Blue Liquid, which is a cold blueing agent, I'm wondering if I can use that substance in the same way as you use mark lee bluing agent in this video?
I have never used Perma Blue for whole guns so don't have a good answer for you. I have a new rust blue vid coming up next week where we talk a little bit about cold bluing with a friend who has some experience with it. Both he and the Birchwood Casey website talk excessively about the need for cleaning the metal (much like I do for rust blue). I suggest that you check out thier website for tips. BTW...thank you for watching and asking questions.
Can express blue be used as a “slow rust” as in wiping it on and letting it sit for a while as the surface slowly rusts? I’d really like to not have to heat the parts. Can’t find any other slow rust solutions in stock that aren’t like $60 for a couple oz
Mark Lee makes a slow rust blue product for only 15.00 a bottle www.trackofthewolf.com/Search.aspx?search=mark%20lee%20slow%20rust I also did a video on using the product: studio.ruclips.net/user/videoO73uY4Jo0Vk/edit Hope this helps
used this product on a pistol of mine .in all respect i took all the precautions and found this product very undsatisfactory did not come out blue or black but a crappy grey i re did that pistol 3 or 4 times and it just looked horrible . and yes i have blued many firearms and by far this was one of the worst i have ever used so i went back to my own formula of bluing and it worked out very well i would never recomend this product to anyone if you have access to cerain chemicals then go for making your own you can even get herters formula and do a beautiful job on any gun
Very sad to hear that you did not have a good experience with this bluing method (I assume you were not using the "slow rust blue" formula? This one will result in a grey or silver appearance (it is use mostly for damasus). But, and I agree, if you have a formula that works well for you and you have the experience and the success with it, then that is the one you should use. Thanks for watching the vid and sharing your experience.
Hi Bill,
I like your setup with the stainless planter tank and the electric hot plates. Especially glad you like my bluing solutions. I don't have a good answer for the number of bluing cycles except keep going until you are satisfied. I started rust bluing in 1972 but I'm still learning things from my customers. I will always try and answer questions through my website.
@@MarkLee-ye2ii Wow….! From the man himself. Been using your stuff for years and have taught many amateur restorers how. Thank you for talking the time to comment. Honored.
Old blue/black bluing and wood stocks, that's what a classic rifle should look like. Again, glad I subscribed, Ted
Thanks Ted! Thats why we call it woodchips and black steel 🙂
I’ve been restoring firearms over 20 years now. I started out because I could buy damaged firearms much cheaper yet I like my firearms to look very new. I actually got very good using Brownells cold blue. However, when restoring a revolver, the metal other than the cylinder was so cheap material, cold bluing was impossible. I ordered the same express blue and after watching your video, I’m about to expand my abilities in firearm restoration.
Nice! Im glad that I might have helped in some way.
@@SixRoundsStudioyou absolutely did. Great video
Bill, I love your videos and this week I am refinishing my 1894 32 special, and yes thank you for all your guidance and help on my projects! I truly enjoy it and this will be fun #5. Thank you!
Thanks Dave. When you get it done we will have to figure out how to get together so I can admire your work. You have been one of my best students 🙂
Really appreciate this video as I have a P14 Enfield that I received with a ton of surface rust but minimal pitting. This method will work great with it from what I've seen. Thanks!
Always glad to help and show what is possible. Thank you!
Thank you Bill this is great. I used cold gluing and they would never look as good as your gluing. I really like your videos and I'm a new subscriber.
Cold blue was never really designed as a finish blue...we use it mostly for small area touch ups. Thank you for commenting, and especially thank you for subscribing.
Looks great! Nicely done
Well thank you!
Mark Lee's bluing looks great. Have some coming from Brownell's. Thanks for the demo!
You are very welcome. Appreciate you being here, watching and taking the time to comment.
Just did 6 sxs shotguns with mark lee express. Very easy to use. 3 passes was all we did on most. I did a 4th on one or 2 but I don’t think it did much. If the solution won’t rust the metal, it’s pretty much as good as it gets. I like all your videos. Love the restoration. Thanks
Thank you Grant! Glad you are here! Mark Lee is definitely a great product.
I tell you what, this is the third video in the last hour that talks about that R.H. Angier Gunsmithing book. That tells me that I need to start looking for a copy online. Your bluing job couldn’t have turned out any better 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you. Appreciate the view and the comment!
Great job!old fashioned is the best ! 👍🏽😊❤️🇺🇸
Thank you! Yep...agree. Sometimes old has its advantages.
When I started blueing I used a piece of rain gutter with caps on both ends for boiling cheap and it works
Yep...that would work. Thanks for watching and commenting
I would use a Heat Gun. I don’t like a direct flame on the barrel. Cleaner, no gas on the metal. I would probably remove the receiver from the barrel. Carding Wheel would probably be superior. Kerosine for 24 hours is good for a soak. Mark Novak of Anvil Gunsmithing uses Kerosine as the bluing starts to take a set on the steel.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Appreciate the feed back.
I’m with you, I prefer the old style blueing over what they do now.
Everyone is looking to control cost and efficiency.
I've also been using Mark Lee's rust bluing and it is great. I agree 3 passes usually gets you to full color but I have normally been doing 5 just to get to uniform color. I will say on Winchester nickel steel, I've had trouble sometimes getting it to full color and have done 6-10 times to get to full uniform color. I do prefer the old rust bluing look.
Yes...I mentioned in the video that some steel alloys can be difficult. It was the Winchesters that I was referencing. Thanks for being here, watching, and commenting!
Your march to 10,000 subscribers will happen quicker then you think if you keep putting out videos like this.
I know I'll be referencing your videos once I start rebluing this winter
Well thank you Mike! Hope get to watch some of the other vids in the catalog and wishing you the very best when you do your own bluing!!
@SixRoundsStudio I've been watching your videos for a few months, lots and lots of great information. I've collected 2 or 3 old Cooeys that are in rough shape, perfect guns to learn on as there are a million of them here in Canada.
Been watching some of Mark Novaks videos on repairing/refurbishing stocks.
Thank you for making the video.
Good video, thanks Bill. Traditional bluing is the best, and of course walnut stocks.
Yep! Everything changes...but sometimes tradition is best.
Much respect sir!
Thank you for that comment!
Beautiful!
Thank you!
Great work!
Appreciate it! Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
Thank you Sir looks great.
Appreciate that!!
Thank you.
You're welcome! Glad you are here and watching!
great video-Nothing is more beautiful than rust blueing-I have done a old 22 Lr. and a savage double barrel all went well.
Thank you! It is a great product and can give beautiful results.
Thank you
You're welcome
I prefer the old gun blue finish. The high polish and nice wood is the best look on a gun.
Yep! Don't know what has happened to the industry? Well...yes I do 😞
I typically repeat the application until the bluing solution does not create any rust on the barrel. I know this is overkill for the color but the protection factor goes up exponentially. I blued a Drilling of mine a few years ago and used it as a test example for wear and corrosion resistance. So far no rust anywhere. This method of bluing is much better all the way around than cold blue (that stinks) and seems to be more corrosion resistant than caustic bluing.
Rust blue is a very safe and cost effective way to get into bluing, and the results are usually stunning if done well. Regarding number of coats??? As Mark Lee, who makes this product, said in a comment here on the channel...each person applying the product needs to achieve the results that speak best to them. Thank you for watching and commenting. That is important and I appreciate it!!
Rust bluing is far superior in looks to modern DuLite or Hot Salts Bluing. Anyone who can polish metal, use steel wool and cotton patches can master rust blue.
Yes sir. Just a little time and patience to learn the craft
Per the instructions on the express blue bottle, it says to neutralize with water and baking soda after the final carding. I noticed that you went directly to the oil. Will that step be necessary. You did a beautiful job on that rifle.
@@leehutson340 Actually I did neutralize. Just didn’t show it.
Nice job! I'm gonna try this method. Anyone blue AK barrels and receivers? I'd love to watch that. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching. I have never done any work on an AK
Hello
I'm a young gunsmith from Finland, I've never blued a gun, but I've been interested in blueing for a long time, but I can't order mark lee express blue or any other blueing liquid from America, the only thing you can get in Finland is Birchwood Perma Blue Liquid, which is a cold blueing agent, I'm wondering if I can use that substance in the same way as you use mark lee bluing agent in this video?
I have never used Perma Blue for whole guns so don't have a good answer for you. I have a new rust blue vid coming up next week where we talk a little bit about cold bluing with a friend who has some experience with it. Both he and the Birchwood Casey website talk excessively about the need for cleaning the metal (much like I do for rust blue). I suggest that you check out thier website for tips. BTW...thank you for watching and asking questions.
Can express blue be used as a “slow rust” as in wiping it on and letting it sit for a while as the surface slowly rusts? I’d really like to not have to heat the parts. Can’t find any other slow rust solutions in stock that aren’t like $60 for a couple oz
Mark Lee makes a slow rust blue product for only 15.00 a bottle www.trackofthewolf.com/Search.aspx?search=mark%20lee%20slow%20rust
I also did a video on using the product: studio.ruclips.net/user/videoO73uY4Jo0Vk/edit
Hope this helps
Do you restore for people?
from what he mentioned in other videos, yes
Yes I do. Appreciate you asking. Right now I am over a year and a half out so am not taking on any new work
I meant bluing
I knew 🙂
You skipped the part about neutralizing it with baking soda.
Your right...I didn't talk about that in this video. I did neutralize before oiling however. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thy
You are welcome.
Nicely done thank you
Thank you too! Appreciate you watching and commenting.
I have a 1956 Winchester lever action 30/30 its got a nice patina. I would love to get this done.
If it has nice vintage patina (not abused) you might consider leaving it alone so that it tells its story.
used this product on a pistol of mine .in all respect i took all the precautions and found this product very undsatisfactory did not come out blue or black but a crappy grey i re did that pistol 3 or 4 times and it just looked horrible . and yes i have blued many firearms and by far this was one of the worst i have ever used so i went back to my own formula of bluing and it worked out very well i would never recomend this product to anyone if you have access to cerain chemicals then go for making your own you can even get herters formula and do a beautiful job on any gun
Very sad to hear that you did not have a good experience with this bluing method (I assume you were not using the "slow rust blue" formula? This one will result in a grey or silver appearance (it is use mostly for damasus). But, and I agree, if you have a formula that works well for you and you have the experience and the success with it, then that is the one you should use. Thanks for watching the vid and sharing your experience.