I HOPE YOU ENJOYED THE VIDEO! IF YOU WANT MORE INFORMATION ON THE STUMP BUCKETS, THEN CHECK OUT THE LINKS BELOW! The HD Stump Bucket isn't available yet, but you can sign up for a waitlist here: bit.ly/3obNdwD The Mini Stump Wrecker is available for purchase here: bit.ly/3oc5MAU WANT TO SAVE MONEY? CHECK OUT THE GWT DISCOUNT CLUB! Use code GWT at any of the vendors below and you will save cold hard cash :) I will also get a commission for the sale, so it's a win-win-win! 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT 247PARTS.COM www.247parts.com 10% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT OUTBACK WRAP! www.outbackwrap.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT MUDD'S CUSTOMS! www.muddscustoms.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT JU FAB WORKS! www.jufabworks.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT ON SELECT PRODUCTS AT SUMMIT HYDRAULICS! www.summit-hydraulics.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT LUBE SHUTTLE! www.lube-shuttle.us/store 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT 511 DESIGNS (CUSTOM GRILLS): www.5elevendesignz.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT TRACTOR PTO LINK! tractorptolink.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT ON PROTERO DUMP SYSTEMS! www.proteroinc.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT ON SWEEP-ALL SWEEPERS! www.sweep-all.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT YARD GLIDER! www.yardglider.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT MILLER TIRE! www.millertire.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT BIG TOOL RACK! http:www.bigtoolrack.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT HEAVY HITCH! www.heavyhitch.com 5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT TRAC SEATS! www.tracseats.com 5% OFF AT RHINOHIDE CANOPIES! www.rhinohidecanopies.com Complete survey after purchase, mention GWT, get 5% refunded. *Discount codes cannot be combined with any other promotions, offers, or deals! **I choose to sell some products through 3rd parties instead of stocking items myself. Know that I will receive a commission if you choose to purchase through certain links. Thank you very much for your support! This video is for entertainment purposes only. Good Works Tractors (Good Works Lawn & Power, LLC) cannot be held responsible for content found in any video. Always reference your owners manuals, use extreme caution, and proceed at your own risk.
Just my thoughts as a professional (certified) welder/fabricator, and a certified welding inspector. 1) Definitely need a thicker back plate. You said you used thicker steel, I didn't catch a thickness. I would recommend @ 3/8" at least. A 5/16" will get you a lot, but over time you will beat this up, so 3/8" is my minimum recommendation. I'm not sure that a 1/2" plate would be what you want, due to weight. You can get the strength increases by more and thicker braces. 2) Back bracing. Tubing can give you a lot, although triangle shapes are the strongest, structurally speaking. Increasing the size and thickness of the angle iron, and of course increasing the stitch weld lengths, number and positions, and size (thickness of weld expressed as the "leg" of the fillet weld) will also net you increased gains in bucket strength and structural integrity. You may also consider adding a second reinforcement to the front side of the plate, along the lower edge. It can be another angle iron part either mirroring the rear brace or as an "L" shape backed against the bottom edge, and the bucket would notch out over it, and seal weld around it. You can possibly add yet another piece of angle iron a few inches up from the bottom. This one I would place the opening of the angle against the plate. Again, notch the bucket and seal weld around where the bucket crosses the angle iron out to about 2" from the bucket. This would give you even more strength to the bottom part of the backplate, while not being in the way of a skid steer mount. You may consider another top brace on the front as well. But I think most of your stresses will be on the bottom of the back plate. Increasing the sizes and thickness of the angle iron braces and their welds, and adding a second or even third to the bottom may be all that you need. As you add braces and strength, the stress forces will find your next weakness, lols ;) For a tractor only mount, both sides become fully open for added braces. But having one simplified design for the bucket itself regardless of attachment would be better for production for you, I think. 3) Welding. As you are increasing the loads being placed upon this new bucket, and you have thicker steel members, you can and should increase the size of your fillet welds. I have seen good welds in your videos and product pictures. Some advice: increase the sizes of the welds to be at least the same size as your structural members. A 1/4" steel part gets a 1/4" fillet weld. A 3/8" piece gets a 3/8" fillet weld. You measure a fillet weld size by it's legs, or the thickness of the weld from the root (center/corner) of the joint formed by the two pieces of steel to the toe (side edge) of the weld. Also, when you reach the corner of a piece, make sure the weld wraps around the structural member and does not just stop at the corner. Keep weld stops and starts at least 1" away from all corners wherever possible. The corner is the point of greatest stress, and weld stops and starts are the points of greatest potential weakness and problems. I am sure you have seen many cracked welds over time, and almost every one will be a fillet weld that stops or starts from a corner. Even when you come to the end of a part, wrap the corner of the part on the end. Even a 1/4" "L" at the end of the weld will prevent most weld failures. All welded surfaces should be clean bright metal. You are using a wire feed welder, so do not just weld over the dull grey mill scale. Also keep grease, paint, oils away from your weld zones. Porosity should be eliminated, and ground out and re-welded. All weld beads should show a thin bright "line" at the toe (edge) of the weld. This will show you have good fusion at the toes of the weld, so you should have good fusion throughout the weld. I hope I have helped you in some small way. As I said, the welds I have seen in your videos and product pictures, and the overall quality of fabrications looks great! And so, I think you have good people designing and fabrication and inspecting your finished welded products before coating them. But still, it is worth being said. Improving weld quality takes time, which costs money and increases cost of the product. A high quality product is always worth the time and money. I think your new HD Stump Wrecker will be another huge success!!!
My 2-cents worth.... At a minimum, I'd still like to see a set of those chain "slip hook" slots out at the upper outside corners of the back plate (in addition to, or replacing the current centered chain grab slot). For even more versatility, adding a set of clevis eyes for a 3/4" clevis out at the same corners would also be nice. That way you'd have the option of strapping things onto the stump bucket with either chains or straps or rope.
The skid steer was impressive to say the least. An idea, maybe not a good one, but maybe adding some hooks to the bucket. Once you have the tree out of the ground to throw a chain around it and then drag it out while you're there. Kind of clean up as you go. Thanks for showing us how different pieces of equipment work.
I bought your mini stump bucket for my 1025r and like it a lot. So far I've pulled out three heavily rooted bushes and dug a short (30') drainage ditch. The only suggestion I have so far is to offer a beefier tooth bar. I bent the provided tooth bar three times while digging the ditch - not so bad that I couldn't straighten with a vise. PA has a lot of rock in the ground. I'm very happy with it - well worth the $$$.
Great video!. Liked it a lot. Informative fun to watch. The testing of the stump bucket on the various equipment was interesting. Have a great day and be safe guys!. Tim
I assumed you would at least bend the teeth using the skid steer. I have mine on a B2650 and have bent teeth on it. Nothing a BFH hasn’t been able to fix though.
It's a great concept yet it's important to understand the differences between the various trees and what their root structures are like. Some have tap roots and some have roots that spread out through the perimeter up to 50 60 feet or more. Digging so close to the tree is not always the best answer for weakening it's diverse root system
I am impressed- those work really good! Thanks,now I want a skid steer..... Oh, what is that white stuff on the ground?? It's still in the 70s here in Oklahoma...
I wish you had posted this video two years ago! I had to struggle with the backhoe on my 2025r to dig out a stump on the hill I was grading to extend the lawn, taking hours to dig around the edge and work my way in to finally be able to pop it out. Stressed the heck out of my hydraulics to boot! Good demo, and the 1025r is close enough to mine to know the limits, so please say thank you to the 2025r's little brother! :)
That little 1025r and the stump bucket would be great for small landscaping projects in tight areas. I'm really learning alot on the videography side as well. Nice job!
I’m impressed I’d be running it on an equivalent skid steer or a kubota 9960. I wish the tractor skid steer plates were as supported as the skid steer hookups
Suggestion, add a protrusion with an angled back guard to the side of the mounting plate that you can hook the tree and pull it backward. Design the angle of the guard so a to deflect the tree from hitting the tractor
Now show how it can dig holes to plant new trees. It looks like it would be OK at this for smaller root balls. With a padded chain or strap it could easily move root balls and looks like get them in a hole pretty easily. Could be a good tool for tree planting I think. I think I may get one to use when brush hogging. Cut a small tree swing around get the staub. No more flats. Hit an existing stump or rock only one time Makes it quickly worthwhile.
I was watching you slip off the first big tree when you were trying to push with the narrow bucket and thought: "It would be nice if the back plate had a forward bend along the whole bottom edge". If you put serrations along that flange you'd have the full width of the back plate you'd have a non-slippery edge to push on the trees, and as a bonus the bend would add a lot of reinforcement to that plate.
I noticed that a few times you would dig with the bucket substantially filled with dirt/mud ,,, Just my thinking if it was empty you would get more penetration instead of compacting it in the bucket ,,, I plan to order one next spring and pick it up as shipping is about the same as the bucket itself
Clearing down to the pond sounds like a job for LetsDig18! Good seeing the capabilities of that digging bucket on the different pieces of equipment though. The 1025 looks to be a little light for that type of job.
Very impressive taking those trees out that fast. I agree, some structural square tubing should stiffen the bottom of the frame. Well made products though!
Glad i live in the loess hills in iowa lots of nice dirt granted the yellow clay in the hills can be pretty damn hard most of the flatland is pretty nice soil though
Great video The removable tip is a nice feature I have an Idea but I don't have the means to build something I am suggesting below. *** Maybe use a walk behind Trencher to test the theory of cutting roots around the base of a Tree first *** Imagine a wider variety of tips that might be invented to expand the versatility of Your Stump Bucket. Like a longer single bladed ROOT RIPPER attachment with sawtooth edges like the sides of Your Bucket that moves and it is used like a seated Bread Knife. It would cause less damage to the soil around the tree and it would cut the Roots all around the base of the tree. It would be able to saw from the top or underneath the roots with a down or upward pressure depending on how the weight and how the force of the Front End Loader is applied by going forward and backward with the Tractor. OR another thought?????? Imagine bolting on a Tip attachment that works with the 3rd function Hydraulics that create a forward and reverse motion like a locomotive wheels rotation. Use that rotational action of the wheel to push/pull a heavy metal saw blade sandwiched between 2 stationary plates used for penetration and support for the middle saw blade. NOTE: It probably will require re enforcement to prevent sideways bending so a gusset or side bar type be welded to the 2 side plates for strength. I feel if the perimeter of the root system were sawed/weakened first by sawing the roots that would reduce the amount of digging needed to push the tree down Plus sawing might work faster and use less Fuel needed to dig so much dirt and reduce the damage to the ground around the root ball Less damage means less back filling and repair work times means LESS FUEL USED for the job Maybe attach it like they attach clamp on Pallet forks to the FEL Buckets so the unit is deep inside the Stump Bucket The blade wouldn't need to be vary long, maybe 12" to 18 " for the larger roots, or use experience to determine Plus the Bucket would provide a great place to protect the Flywheel mechanism NOTE: The Blade Only would be inserted into the ground, and not the Whole Bucket and not used forcefully, but allow the sawing with applied pressure to cut through the roots Maybe even create a main frame that You could rotate the unit in to change the side angle of attack where the blade can be used to cut down and forward to reach the Tap Roots. Wet soil is a big trees worst enemy It's really something to see a giant healthy tree laying on it's side with a giant root ball fully pulled out of the ground Long heavy saturating rains and followed by a windy day will bring them down I have been curious about pre saturating the perimeter of a trees root system or pressure washing away the supporting soil and then using the tees height and leverage to bring them down. Ken in Florida
Courtney, my 35HP tractor seems to be on the cusp between the Mini Stump Bucket and the new Stump Bucket. Which one would you recommend? Is it better to be on the high side in terms of power or the low end?
Wow that 333g has some serious power. Stump bucket looks good. Glad you're testing to failure. I would love one for my 1025r, Any updates on shipping to Canada?
Pond vs lake: Many people have various ways to split the difference, and tradition seems to be lakes *should* be larger than ponds. In the US, there is a specific cut off though, and while it makes clear sense, many don't know about it. Lakes, by this definition, used by USGS, have a dark zone. That is, they are deep enough to have a zone where in daylight there is darkness. Ponds, irrespective of length and width, are too shallow to have a dark zone.
I only know that it is the way the US defines it, I think Canada is the same, but I know some other countries either do not use this metric at all, or only use it for "new", that is unnamed bodies of water, and if a pond was named a lake historically because it was quite large, lake it remains by their standards
Hey GWT! not sure if you’ll see this but do you think the HD bucket would suit a 5045E well? I have looked at many but all the other ones i have found for the 5+ series are ridiculously long and i want nothing like that.
That bucket looks like an absolute blast. However; not sure sawing off the trees as low as you can and stump grinding the rest down would take less time once you figure in the time it takes to fill in the digging mess.
A little hard to see exactly how it's all built in the video, but you could save weight and make it stronger by cutting some holes in the back plate and using a dimple die. You can turn 18 Guage sheet metal into a walkable floor on two foot centers using dimples, so if it can be done it would make it much stronger with reduced weight. Looking good though!
Neat seeing the different machines doing the same work. I'm REALLY EXCITED to get my stump bucket here in Arkansas. I believe the bucket will be a great addition to my growing 1025R attachment collection. PLEASE hurry!
I bought the stump bucket, I have a JD 1025R. The problem with it is you can't see the position of the bucket from the seat of the tractor. The backing plate blocks the view and it's rather frustrating. You may want to cutout a window in the backing plate , but it's definitely a problem. As a tool it does the job, but if you can't see what your doing , it's kind of guesswork
Similar to a regular loader bucket, it becomes about feel after you get used to it. Very little would be gained by opening a window into the back frame. You'd still very seldom see the leading edge. More seat time will give you the feel.
@@GoodWorksTractors There's a huge difference between sight directing a bucket than a short V shaped piece of metal that's totally shadowed by the back plate. Even putting it in neutral and standing up, you still can't see the position of the bucket when it enters the ground. If it were me, and feesable, I'd remove the back plate or reduce the size. at least with a backhoe you have total visual and control. But hey, it is what it is.
@@Hotdog22958 I know the problem you mentioned. It was for me for a couple hours to get the hang of it. Probably just takes longer for some than others. Same with a bucket, forks, grapple, anything else where you can’t see the leading edge. Learning curves will vary.
Your videos and presentations have been incredible. I'm about to seal the deal on a JD 3033R based a lot on what you have presented on multiple videos. I'm looking forward to buying a stump bucket from you.! Make the improvements to the back plate support and we are doing business!
Great video demonstration of the testing. Definitely needs some more structural support based on the first test, although it looked good on the skid steer. I think the larger backing plate certainly helped reduce the possibility of damage. It's great that you are testing the product first hand, but have you considered getting a customer to do some testing? Sometimes having a customer do some beta testing can provide good feedback for a better design. Keep the videos coming along with the update on the HD stump bucket.
I have to say I was skeptical of the idea of a a stump bucket, and nothing I've seen in this video changed my mind! Everything shown here could have been done so much easier with SO much less equipment stress with a mini excavator, with far less damage to the surrounding area. And a mini WILL reach around and get the roots behind the tree. So you're saying to yourself, "Yeah, but the cost!" Watching this video the only one that worked with any efficiency was the track loader one. I'll bet my used Bobcat (E35) was a third the price of the 333. I got my mini on the recommendation of my tractor dealer, when I told him what I wanted to do: clear fields that had suffered tornado damage of intertwined hardwoods - similar to the woods you need to clear. I always thought of minis as being ditch diggers. Boy, was I wrong. They do everything except mow.
Lol, yeah but the cost! Nuff said. CHEAPEST used e35 in the USA on MachineryTrader is $26,000. www.machinerytrader.com/listings/search?ModelGroup=E35&Manufacturer=BOBCAT&Country=178&sort=2
About 15k will get you a 30,000 lb 1980s or 70s bull dozer. You must have a little bit of wrenching knowledge, but that’s the machine you need for trees
Sorta! If you lean around. However, you get a feel for it quickly based on the angle of attack even without seeing the leading edge. Seldom a miscue after getting the feel.
I have the original GWT Stump Bucket and I usually have someone in front as a spotter to tell me the best point of entry and angle. I tried doing it by myself and found I was getting on and off the tractor a lot.
I think you you have the most failure from the replacement tooth bar. I believe you will just have problems with the bolts breaking over lots of use. Which not really a big deal but I think it would get old replacing bolts is all.
@@GoodWorksTractors I know it's not what you designed it for but it seemed to hold up pretty good to the skid steer for the little bit that you used it. I would have to say being used on a tractor it would probably last a long time seeing how it did on the skid steer Good work
A track loader yes, but a compact tractor? not for me, they arent built for the stress of constantly trying to peel rooted stumps out of the ground.. A lot of extra metal fatigue on the loader happening and I've seen loader frames twisted before.. I'll use a mini ex if i need to pull stumps out
OH... clickbait! I do enjoy your vids! I wanted to see you try to take that big tree out. It would be a fight. I prefer an excavator for tree stump removal. Second choice is a mid size bulldozer. Third would be a large backhoe.
Ufdah!…this makes me cringe. My opinion, there is not enough steel in those tractors for using these attachments. Maybe I’m just alittle tired and cranky but my repair today was a 5 year old 55hp compact tractor, red brand. I had to plasma cut, straighten, and weld up left side loader tower mount, along with removing 4 of the 5, 16mm bolts that were sheared off that held tower to tractor frame along with removing sheared off bolts holding rear axle undercarriage bracket. Folks be mindful of what these tractors are design to do. They are not skidsteers or payloaders or bulldozers.
That's why my buckets are much more compact. 400+ of my mini buckets in the field and no reports of loader damage. Damage occurs with those long, oversized buckets that exert very large loads. Well, plus guys who are treating their tractors like they don't care what happens. But me? My excuse is I gotta be harder on everything to make sure it holds up under normal use. 👍
Had the auto lvl loader and hated it, went back normal and can do way more. Your struggling too much in vid, i have a brand new 4066r loaded and 1200# fluid in rears.
The skidsteer would have inflicted the same damage with a simple bucket - The tractor was, frankly, useless - The damage caused by the wheels slipping/dig in was worse than that created by the stump wrecker. It looked pretty feeble on what was a pretty feeble tree. It sums it up really, I'd call it the Stump Tickler.
@@GoodWorksTractors Thats what I thought - The right tool for the job, or, employ someone with the right tool for the job - No point in buying one just because you have something it fits on, it needs to work of course. Makes Sense doesn't it?
Stump bucket is basiclly a waste of time. Better methods/equipment to use. Don't even try on big trees. Last lil tractor looks like a waste of $$$ - get something bigger !
I HOPE YOU ENJOYED THE VIDEO! IF YOU WANT MORE INFORMATION ON THE STUMP BUCKETS, THEN CHECK OUT THE LINKS BELOW!
The HD Stump Bucket isn't available yet, but you can sign up for a waitlist here: bit.ly/3obNdwD
The Mini Stump Wrecker is available for purchase here: bit.ly/3oc5MAU
WANT TO SAVE MONEY? CHECK OUT THE GWT DISCOUNT CLUB! Use code GWT at any of the vendors below and you will save cold hard cash :) I will also get a commission for the sale, so it's a win-win-win!
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT 247PARTS.COM www.247parts.com
10% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT OUTBACK WRAP! www.outbackwrap.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT MUDD'S CUSTOMS! www.muddscustoms.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT JU FAB WORKS! www.jufabworks.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT ON SELECT PRODUCTS AT SUMMIT HYDRAULICS! www.summit-hydraulics.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT LUBE SHUTTLE! www.lube-shuttle.us/store
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT 511 DESIGNS (CUSTOM GRILLS): www.5elevendesignz.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT TRACTOR PTO LINK! tractorptolink.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT ON PROTERO DUMP SYSTEMS! www.proteroinc.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT ON SWEEP-ALL SWEEPERS! www.sweep-all.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT YARD GLIDER! www.yardglider.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT MILLER TIRE! www.millertire.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT BIG TOOL RACK! http:www.bigtoolrack.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT HEAVY HITCH! www.heavyhitch.com
5% OFF WITH CODE GWT AT TRAC SEATS! www.tracseats.com
5% OFF AT RHINOHIDE CANOPIES! www.rhinohidecanopies.com Complete survey after purchase, mention GWT, get 5% refunded.
*Discount codes cannot be combined with any other promotions, offers, or deals!
**I choose to sell some products through 3rd parties instead of stocking items myself. Know that I will receive a commission if you choose to purchase through certain links. Thank you very much for your support!
This video is for entertainment purposes only. Good Works Tractors (Good Works Lawn & Power, LLC) cannot be held responsible for content found in any video. Always reference your owners manuals, use extreme caution, and proceed at your own risk.
Just my thoughts as a professional (certified) welder/fabricator, and a certified welding inspector.
1) Definitely need a thicker back plate. You said you used thicker steel, I didn't catch a thickness. I would recommend @ 3/8" at least. A 5/16" will get you a lot, but over time you will beat this up, so 3/8" is my minimum recommendation. I'm not sure that a 1/2" plate would be what you want, due to weight. You can get the strength increases by more and thicker braces.
2) Back bracing. Tubing can give you a lot, although triangle shapes are the strongest, structurally speaking. Increasing the size and thickness of the angle iron, and of course increasing the stitch weld lengths, number and positions, and size (thickness of weld expressed as the "leg" of the fillet weld) will also net you increased gains in bucket strength and structural integrity. You may also consider adding a second reinforcement to the front side of the plate, along the lower edge. It can be another angle iron part either mirroring the rear brace or as an "L" shape backed against the bottom edge, and the bucket would notch out over it, and seal weld around it. You can possibly add yet another piece of angle iron a few inches up from the bottom. This one I would place the opening of the angle against the plate. Again, notch the bucket and seal weld around where the bucket crosses the angle iron out to about 2" from the bucket. This would give you even more strength to the bottom part of the backplate, while not being in the way of a skid steer mount. You may consider another top brace on the front as well. But I think most of your stresses will be on the bottom of the back plate. Increasing the sizes and thickness of the angle iron braces and their welds, and adding a second or even third to the bottom may be all that you need. As you add braces and strength, the stress forces will find your next weakness, lols ;) For a tractor only mount, both sides become fully open for added braces. But having one simplified design for the bucket itself regardless of attachment would be better for production for you, I think.
3) Welding. As you are increasing the loads being placed upon this new bucket, and you have thicker steel members, you can and should increase the size of your fillet welds. I have seen good welds in your videos and product pictures. Some advice: increase the sizes of the welds to be at least the same size as your structural members. A 1/4" steel part gets a 1/4" fillet weld. A 3/8" piece gets a 3/8" fillet weld. You measure a fillet weld size by it's legs, or the thickness of the weld from the root (center/corner) of the joint formed by the two pieces of steel to the toe (side edge) of the weld. Also, when you reach the corner of a piece, make sure the weld wraps around the structural member and does not just stop at the corner. Keep weld stops and starts at least 1" away from all corners wherever possible. The corner is the point of greatest stress, and weld stops and starts are the points of greatest potential weakness and problems. I am sure you have seen many cracked welds over time, and almost every one will be a fillet weld that stops or starts from a corner. Even when you come to the end of a part, wrap the corner of the part on the end. Even a 1/4" "L" at the end of the weld will prevent most weld failures. All welded surfaces should be clean bright metal. You are using a wire feed welder, so do not just weld over the dull grey mill scale. Also keep grease, paint, oils away from your weld zones. Porosity should be eliminated, and ground out and re-welded. All weld beads should show a thin bright "line" at the toe (edge) of the weld. This will show you have good fusion at the toes of the weld, so you should have good fusion throughout the weld.
I hope I have helped you in some small way. As I said, the welds I have seen in your videos and product pictures, and the overall quality of fabrications looks great! And so, I think you have good people designing and fabrication and inspecting your finished welded products before coating them. But still, it is worth being said. Improving weld quality takes time, which costs money and increases cost of the product. A high quality product is always worth the time and money. I think your new HD Stump Wrecker will be another huge success!!!
My 2-cents worth.... At a minimum, I'd still like to see a set of those chain "slip hook" slots out at the upper outside corners of the back plate (in addition to, or replacing the current centered chain grab slot). For even more versatility, adding a set of clevis eyes for a 3/4" clevis out at the same corners would also be nice. That way you'd have the option of strapping things onto the stump bucket with either chains or straps or rope.
That "2-cents worth" is worth about 400 bucks.
Trees that you don't want are certainly a chore to get rid of. Nice products to make it less of a chore. Great job
Expecting delivering at any moment on my GWT Mini-Stump bucket. Ready
to get to work!!! Photos coming soon!
The skid steer was impressive to say the least. An idea, maybe not a good one, but maybe adding some hooks to the bucket. Once you have the tree out of the ground to throw a chain around it and then drag it out while you're there. Kind of clean up as you go. Thanks for showing us how different pieces of equipment work.
Definitely could chain and drag. I'm gearing up for a major hillside clearing operation. Will give me plenty of opportunity to see what works best!
I thought it looked like the bucket has a chain drop hole just above the GWT logo (not sure what the correct name for them actually is).
I bought your mini stump bucket for my 1025r and like it a lot. So far I've pulled out three heavily rooted bushes and dug a short (30') drainage ditch. The only suggestion I have so far is to offer a beefier tooth bar. I bent the provided tooth bar three times while digging the ditch - not so bad that I couldn't straighten with a vise. PA has a lot of rock in the ground. I'm very happy with it - well worth the $$$.
It’s fun testing the limits! Enjoying my mini wrecker
I have a stump wrecker on backorder for my 1025r. I can't wait to get it.
Great demonstration, Courtney! I feel certain that one of those stump buckets is in my future!
Great video!. Liked it a lot. Informative fun to watch. The testing of the stump bucket on the various equipment was interesting. Have a great day and be safe guys!. Tim
I assumed you would at least bend the teeth using the skid steer. I have mine on a B2650 and have bent teeth on it. Nothing a BFH hasn’t been able to fix though.
It's a great concept yet it's important to understand the differences between the various trees and what their root structures are like. Some have tap roots and some have roots that spread out through the perimeter up to 50 60 feet or more.
Digging so close to the tree is not always the best answer for weakening it's diverse root system
I am impressed- those work really good! Thanks,now I want a skid steer..... Oh, what is that white stuff on the ground?? It's still in the 70s here in Oklahoma...
I wish you had posted this video two years ago! I had to struggle with the backhoe on my 2025r to dig out a stump on the hill I was grading to extend the lawn, taking hours to dig around the edge and work my way in to finally be able to pop it out. Stressed the heck out of my hydraulics to boot! Good demo, and the 1025r is close enough to mine to know the limits, so please say thank you to the 2025r's little brother! :)
Haha, I'll let him know!
I have a Kubota LX not sure if the mini or standard size one would be better for me ?
That little 1025r and the stump bucket would be great for small landscaping projects in tight areas. I'm really learning alot on the videography side as well. Nice job!
I agree, thank you sir!
I would recommend making the replaceable tip orange or a bright color for better visibility. Same as your fork suggestion!
Yeah, but can't see the digging edge from the seat.
I’m impressed I’d be running it on an equivalent skid steer or a kubota 9960. I wish the tractor skid steer plates were as supported as the skid steer hookups
Suggestion, add a protrusion with an angled back guard to the side of the mounting plate that you can hook the tree and pull it backward. Design the angle of the guard so a to deflect the tree from hitting the tractor
Now show how it can dig holes to plant new trees. It looks like it would be OK at this for smaller root balls. With a padded chain or strap it could easily move root balls and looks like get them in a hole pretty easily. Could be a good tool for tree planting I think. I think I may get one to use when brush hogging. Cut a small tree swing around get the staub. No more flats. Hit an existing stump or rock only one time Makes it quickly worthwhile.
Humbly suggest the "bolt on" Tooth Plate be put on the underside to make the bucket easier to get the dirt out when dumping.
Can bolt on either side...users choice 😄
I was watching you slip off the first big tree when you were trying to push with the narrow bucket and thought: "It would be nice if the back plate had a forward bend along the whole bottom edge". If you put serrations along that flange you'd have the full width of the back plate you'd have a non-slippery edge to push on the trees, and as a bonus the bend would add a lot of reinforcement to that plate.
Possibly so...worth consideration, thanks for sharing!
Is there a heavy duty version in the works? I like the length on this style.
I’d definitely be interested maybe next Summer for my 33R if the funds are available. Good video!
This should make clear cut and prep for pasture or planting much easier. Bob in Nevada
I think upper mounting point on the SSQA?
Yeah, I thought that could have been it too
So crazy you have snow. I’m right across the pond in Wisconsin just south of stevens point an we have no snow an it was 50 out the last two days.
Yeah it was 50+ here today
I noticed that a few times you would dig with the bucket substantially filled with dirt/mud ,,, Just my thinking if it was empty you would get more penetration instead of compacting it in the bucket ,,, I plan to order one next spring and pick it up as shipping is about the same as the bucket itself
That is a fine tool. I'll be on the list to get one for my JD4066. Great design guys.
Another great video , thanks.
Not too shabby 👍
Clearing down to the pond sounds like a job for LetsDig18! Good seeing the capabilities of that digging bucket on the different pieces of equipment though. The 1025 looks to be a little light for that type of job.
Very impressive taking those trees out that fast. I agree, some structural square tubing should stiffen the bottom of the frame. Well made products though!
Thanks LC!
I'm envious of the dirt you guys have. You can't dig more than 8 inches in NH without hitting a giant rock.
Yeah, nice dirt here for sure!
Glad i live in the loess hills in iowa lots of nice dirt granted the yellow clay in the hills can be pretty damn hard most of the flatland is pretty nice soil though
You ever need a product tester and a challenge for your products...email me some time 😂.
A really good test is to get it out in some cutover timber tracts and put it to work on various size stumps from pine, oak and other species.
Great video
The removable tip is a nice feature
I have an Idea but I don't have the means to build something I am suggesting below.
*** Maybe use a walk behind Trencher to test the theory of cutting roots around the base of a Tree first ***
Imagine a wider variety of tips that might be invented to expand the versatility of Your Stump Bucket.
Like a longer single bladed ROOT RIPPER attachment with sawtooth edges like the sides of Your Bucket that moves and it is used like a seated Bread Knife.
It would cause less damage to the soil around the tree and it would cut the Roots all around the base of the tree.
It would be able to saw from the top or underneath the roots with a down or upward pressure depending on how the weight and how the force of the Front End Loader is applied by going forward and backward with the Tractor.
OR another thought??????
Imagine bolting on a Tip attachment that works with the 3rd function Hydraulics that create a forward and reverse motion like a locomotive wheels rotation.
Use that rotational action of the wheel to push/pull a heavy metal saw blade sandwiched between 2 stationary plates used for penetration and support for the middle saw blade.
NOTE: It probably will require re enforcement to prevent sideways bending so a gusset or side bar type be welded to the 2 side plates for strength.
I feel if the perimeter of the root system were sawed/weakened first by sawing the roots that would reduce the amount of digging needed to push the tree down
Plus sawing might work faster and use less Fuel needed to dig so much dirt and reduce the damage to the ground around the root ball
Less damage means less back filling and repair work times means LESS FUEL USED for the job
Maybe attach it like they attach clamp on Pallet forks to the FEL Buckets so the unit is deep inside the Stump Bucket
The blade wouldn't need to be vary long, maybe 12" to 18 " for the larger roots, or use experience to determine
Plus the Bucket would provide a great place to protect the Flywheel mechanism
NOTE: The Blade Only would be inserted into the ground, and not the Whole Bucket and not used forcefully, but allow the sawing with applied pressure to cut through the roots
Maybe even create a main frame that You could rotate the unit in to change the side angle of attack where the blade can be used to cut down and forward to reach the Tap Roots.
Wet soil is a big trees worst enemy
It's really something to see a giant healthy tree laying on it's side with a giant root ball fully pulled out of the ground
Long heavy saturating rains and followed by a windy day will bring them down
I have been curious about pre saturating the perimeter of a trees root system or pressure washing away the supporting soil and then using the tees height and leverage to bring them down.
Ken in Florida
I'll take 3rd.
Courtney, my 35HP tractor seems to be on the cusp between the Mini Stump Bucket and the new Stump Bucket. Which one would you recommend? Is it better to be on the high side in terms of power or the low end?
Depends on tractor model?
@@GoodWorksTractors Massey Ferguson 1835E
Wow that 333g has some serious power. Stump bucket looks good. Glad you're testing to failure. I would love one for my 1025r, Any updates on shipping to Canada?
Yeah it does! Nothing new in CA yet, hopefully in 2022.
great comparison...the stump bucket may be a good compromise
10:55 had oops moment lol. I've had those too lol.
Those R14 tires look good! Have you ever done a video about them? How do you like them so far?
No trees were harmed in the production of this film.
3520, not there with it. lets see if it can pop out some big rocks?
Pond vs lake:
Many people have various ways to split the difference, and tradition seems to be lakes *should* be larger than ponds.
In the US, there is a specific cut off though, and while it makes clear sense, many don't know about it.
Lakes, by this definition, used by USGS, have a dark zone. That is, they are deep enough to have a zone where in daylight there is darkness.
Ponds, irrespective of length and width, are too shallow to have a dark zone.
I recall reading that somewhere, but didn't know how much merit it had. By that measure, this is a lake, not a pond.
I only know that it is the way the US defines it, I think Canada is the same, but I know some other countries either do not use this metric at all, or only use it for "new", that is unnamed bodies of water, and if a pond was named a lake historically because it was quite large, lake it remains by their standards
Hey GWT! not sure if you’ll see this but do you think the HD bucket would suit a 5045E well? I have looked at many but all the other ones i have found for the 5+ series are ridiculously long and i want nothing like that.
That bucket looks like an absolute blast. However; not sure sawing off the trees as low as you can and stump grinding the rest down would take less time once you figure in the time it takes to fill in the digging mess.
Probably depends on the area. Digging out trees is just one of many uses for this bucket.
My thought is the longer bucket might be meant to shove into the ground then lift while using a dumping motion for leverage. instead of curling.
Yes… that makes sense, use leverage
I’m debating getting one for my gen 1 2025R looks like it works great
Thanks Jason, it's a lot of fun to use!
What bucket do you recommend for a 2 series
A little hard to see exactly how it's all built in the video, but you could save weight and make it stronger by cutting some holes in the back plate and using a dimple die. You can turn 18 Guage sheet metal into a walkable floor on two foot centers using dimples, so if it can be done it would make it much stronger with reduced weight. Looking good though!
Neat seeing the different machines doing the same work. I'm REALLY EXCITED to get my stump bucket here in Arkansas. I believe the bucket will be a great addition to my growing 1025R attachment collection. PLEASE hurry!
Looks like it may be a bit much for the over sized riding mower lol. But the 333 handles it like a boss
😂😂
I bought the stump bucket, I have a JD 1025R. The problem with it is you can't see the position of the bucket from the seat of the tractor. The backing plate blocks the view and it's rather frustrating. You may want to cutout a window in the backing plate , but it's definitely a problem. As a tool it does the job, but if you can't see what your doing , it's kind of guesswork
Similar to a regular loader bucket, it becomes about feel after you get used to it. Very little would be gained by opening a window into the back frame. You'd still very seldom see the leading edge. More seat time will give you the feel.
@@GoodWorksTractors There's a huge difference between sight directing a bucket than a short V shaped piece of metal that's totally shadowed by the back plate. Even putting it in neutral and standing up, you still can't see the position of the bucket when it enters the ground. If it were me, and feesable, I'd remove the back plate or reduce the size. at least with a backhoe you have total visual and control. But hey, it is what it is.
@@Hotdog22958 I know the problem you mentioned. It was for me for a couple hours to get the hang of it. Probably just takes longer for some than others. Same with a bucket, forks, grapple, anything else where you can’t see the leading edge. Learning curves will vary.
@@GoodWorksTractors MTL John Deere Loader Long Bottom stump bucket. This has a cutout back plate and it's actually cheaper than the GMT
Your videos and presentations have been incredible. I'm about to seal the deal on a JD 3033R based a lot on what you have presented on multiple videos. I'm looking forward to buying a stump bucket from you.! Make the improvements to the back plate support and we are doing business!
Great video demonstration of the testing. Definitely needs some more structural support based on the first test, although it looked good on the skid steer. I think the larger backing plate certainly helped reduce the possibility of damage. It's great that you are testing the product first hand, but have you considered getting a customer to do some testing? Sometimes having a customer do some beta testing can provide good feedback for a better design. Keep the videos coming along with the update on the HD stump bucket.
Yeah, already got that field test lined up with many different machines :) Have a great day John!
What were the specs on that first tractor?
I have to say I was skeptical of the idea of a a stump bucket, and nothing I've seen in this video changed my mind! Everything shown here could have been done so much easier with SO much less equipment stress with a mini excavator, with far less damage to the surrounding area. And a mini WILL reach around and get the roots behind the tree.
So you're saying to yourself, "Yeah, but the cost!" Watching this video the only one that worked with any efficiency was the track loader one. I'll bet my used Bobcat (E35) was a third the price of the 333.
I got my mini on the recommendation of my tractor dealer, when I told him what I wanted to do: clear fields that had suffered tornado damage of intertwined hardwoods - similar to the woods you need to clear. I always thought of minis as being ditch diggers. Boy, was I wrong. They do everything except mow.
Lol, yeah but the cost! Nuff said. CHEAPEST used e35 in the USA on MachineryTrader is $26,000. www.machinerytrader.com/listings/search?ModelGroup=E35&Manufacturer=BOBCAT&Country=178&sort=2
To clear that much, I’m sure you know someone with 2 D8’s. Chain them together and drive forward
I think if you emptied the bucket often you would be able to get under the wood easier. The full bucket is blocking your way. Great video, thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Well now I need the bigger one!
😂😂
@@GoodWorksTractors put me on the list I need to order one!
Poor man’s excavator. Good stuff.
Definitely, thanks Karl!
Good video and comparisons. I think I would stick with the skid steer
The angle iron on the backside is weak when its laid down like a teepee. You'd be better off using 3" u-channel with a 1.5" flange. Just my opinion.
The whole time you are on the 1025R I am thinking - Go get the skid steer and make it happen!
Haha, so was I! But, lots of us have small tractors, so gotta show what they can do too 😀
Volvo EC160 will take care of clearing your lot, no sweat.
Have you watched any "LetsDig18" utube vids of land clearing... may be helpful for your adventures towards the water hole... just a thought.
Could be Very Costly 🤔❓
Especially if one of them Tree's Comes Back Like One Did & Smacks You & Your Cab 🚜😱
Good R&D For Your Business Venture 👏👏👍
What's the right tool? Big dozer!
Crossed my mind! facebook.com/456182054727301/posts/1603219260023569/?d=n
With that self levering loader you miss the extra curl.
Yeah, maybe so. Worked better than I thought it would.
I knew the skid steer would do better because it has way more power than a tractor.
About 15k will get you a 30,000 lb 1980s or 70s bull dozer. You must have a little bit of wrenching knowledge, but that’s the machine you need for trees
Looks pretty cool, but a good way to tear up your tractor loader.
Can you see what you're doing from the driver's seat?
Sorta! If you lean around. However, you get a feel for it quickly based on the angle of attack even without seeing the leading edge. Seldom a miscue after getting the feel.
I have the original GWT Stump Bucket and I usually have someone in front as a spotter to tell me the best point of entry and angle. I tried doing it by myself and found I was getting on and off the tractor a lot.
#1 on Thursday
Morning Sir !
@@SummertymeJamz Good Morning!
Good Morning Mark!
Mornin JW!!
@@GoodWorksTractors Gm !!
I think it would work better if you could get around the other side of tree
I think you you have the most failure from the replacement tooth bar. I believe you will just have problems with the bolts breaking over lots of use. Which not really a big deal but I think it would get old replacing bolts is all.
So far, breaking bolts hasn't been much of a concern. However, the replaceable teeth did fail as intended. Thanks for watching!
@@GoodWorksTractors I know it's not what you designed it for but it seemed to hold up pretty good to the skid steer for the little bit that you used it. I would have to say being used on a tractor it would probably last a long time seeing how it did on the skid steer Good work
i noticed you kept going into it with a full bucket, may wanna empty it and get those teeth working harder for ya...great videos as always....cheers!!
Thanks for watching!
"GOOD LAKE"
A track loader yes, but a compact tractor? not for me, they arent built for the stress of constantly trying to peel rooted stumps out of the ground..
A lot of extra metal fatigue on the loader happening and I've seen loader frames twisted before..
I'll use a mini ex if i need to pull stumps out
Who said anyone is constantly peeling stumps out? Just another tool to use when appropriate.
OH... clickbait!
I do enjoy your vids! I wanted to see you try to take that big tree out. It would be a fight. I prefer an excavator for tree stump removal. Second choice is a mid size bulldozer. Third would be a large backhoe.
Ufdah!…this makes me cringe. My opinion, there is not enough steel in those tractors for using these attachments. Maybe I’m just alittle tired and cranky but my repair today was a 5 year old 55hp compact tractor, red brand. I had to plasma cut, straighten, and weld up left side loader tower mount, along with removing 4 of the 5, 16mm bolts that were sheared off that held tower to tractor frame along with removing sheared off bolts holding rear axle undercarriage bracket. Folks be mindful of what these tractors are design to do. They are not skidsteers or payloaders or bulldozers.
That's why my buckets are much more compact. 400+ of my mini buckets in the field and no reports of loader damage. Damage occurs with those long, oversized buckets that exert very large loads. Well, plus guys who are treating their tractors like they don't care what happens. But me? My excuse is I gotta be harder on everything to make sure it holds up under normal use. 👍
Using one of these on a rubber tired tractor is bad news. You are putting too much strain on the front tires. Better to dig it out with a backhoe.
Backhoe with a ripper tooth would work faster a. lot easier on the tractor
Yes, spend 10, 20, 30x the amount of this bucket and I would sure hope it's faster. Who didn't already know that?
I'm going to say the tip will fail first
Had the auto lvl loader and hated it, went back normal and can do way more. Your struggling too much in vid, i have a brand new 4066r loaded and 1200# fluid in rears.
You’ll probably bend the front teeth first on the skid steer.
2 second
Made the podium!
If the tractor can do that. The skid steer will demolished it
I think the backing plate on the SSQA adapter saved it from a lot of damage.
The skidsteer would have inflicted the same damage with a simple bucket - The tractor was, frankly, useless - The damage caused by the wheels slipping/dig in was worse than that created by the stump wrecker. It looked pretty feeble on what was a pretty feeble tree. It sums it up really, I'd call it the Stump Tickler.
Makes sense. Don't buy an inexpensive tool for the tractor you already own. Buy an entire skid steer instead. 🤦♂️
@@GoodWorksTractors Thats what I thought - The right tool for the job, or, employ someone with the right tool for the job - No point in buying one just because you have something it fits on, it needs to work of course. Makes Sense doesn't it?
Nonsense.
So...buy a skidsteer not tractor got it thanks!!
Haha yeah! Love mine 😂
Bittersweet trees! They suck
Stump bucket is basiclly a waste of time. Better methods/equipment to use. Don't even try on big trees. Last lil tractor looks like a waste of $$$ - get something bigger !
Stump buckets = waste of time and hard on equipment
You shud have pushed on the tree Befor rooting around it to show us how tight those trees are set.
I’d definitely be interested maybe next Summer for my 33R if the funds are available. Good video!
To clear that much, I’m sure you know someone with 2 D8’s. Chain them together and drive forward
I wish! Would be a blast to watch them work!