How To Mount a Lathe Chuck 6 Jaw P1
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Lathe Chuck Mounting, This is for a 10" Buck 6 Jaw Lathe Chuck Mounting Plate. The mounting plate I picked up off of Ebay, It is a L00 mounting blank, 8" in diameter, cast iron.
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Nice boring bars make life easier for sure. Good to see this project coming along.
I love this bar. This is the first time I used it. Time to search out a few more.
Nice work Randy and I also appreciate your explanation of the mounting plate fitting... and the "sealing flange" is a nice touch. Looking forward to part 2 :)
Thank you Peter, the flange worked out good.
Nice job going through each step to get to the end Randy! Having seen it in person now, is all the more impressive! Razor!
Thank you Ray. Sure works good.
That sure is one gorgeous chuck... what a find. Love that kind of spindle nose - which I had better than just darned thread!
Turned down real nice.
Thanks Chris. Small spindle bore 1.375. only problem.
Hey Randy, nice work, looking forward to the next part. Kindest regards. Joe.
Thank you Joe. Editing coming along.
nice explanation on mounting plate fit up
Thank you Ed.
looks great, I need to stop by and see it in person to give final approval
Thank you Mike, anytime.
Good job there. Cast iron is unique in the way it cuts. When I was boring motorcycle cylinders it seemed amazing how what looked like a rough cut came to the proper size and finish with just a tiny bit of honing. Keep on keeping on.
Nice work. Picked up several good machining and fabrication tips, like chip labyrinth or remembering to de-burr a small spot for depth mic. The use of the boring bar upside down was a nice touch too.
Thank you Tim. Kept some of the chip undercontrol.
This L mount is much easier to adapt that what I've had to deal with mine that needed a D1-6 type...
If you use regular steel boring bars after those carbide ones, you'll think the bar is defective, but, no the carbide one is so much stiffer...
One hint about working with cast iron, you might slow the speed, and increase the feed and depth, will generate less heat into the part.
This mount was easy to make. Yep love the carbide bar. I have not turned much Cast iron, next time I will take your advise. Thanks Pierre.
Good video Randy, waiting for the next one.
Thank you Mike. coming.
Nice piece. Was watching this earlier today on my droid as I was waiting for rain to stop. Picked up my very first Milling Machine. A 60's Millrite MV with Ronk Phase converter, power feed on x axis & DRO. Very nice condition. The seller has another couple of very nice rigs, a Gorton & a TREE, both made years ago in nearby Racine, WI.
Looks good Randy. I miss having chucks that don't spin when you put them on and take them off.
Thank you Bill. These sure are heavy, time to build a crane.
nice job randy. i think i would have removed the flange from the mount plate. it seems to me that the gap you have to leave will provide a way for debris to get down into the chuck. my six jaw is machined straight back and i've never had a problem.
Nice work, Randy. For those of use with threaded chucks, you can use a left handed boring bar if you had one or left handed turning tool instead of how you did it upside down and running in reverse.
Thank you Ryan. Yep got to watch running in reverse with threaded chucks.
I see your camera editing is getting very good. Nice chuck.
Thank you Mike, I am working on it.
Nicely done Randy, especially like leaving the flange to act as a seal!
ATB, Robin
Thank you Robin. The flange worked out great.
Glad you are safe
Thank you.
I'm embarrassed I didn't find you sooner! I was watching old Abom videos and his video where KBC gave him (!!!) a tmx 6 jaw 10in led me on a 6 jaw video search since I'm a dyed in the wool 4 jaw and collet Chuck guy 6 jaw intrigues me.
Well thanks for finding me. I love my 6 jaw.
nice chuck! looking forward to seeing it spin.
Thank you Tony, sure works great.
Good job Randy , That is a very nice chuck . Back plate is well on it way to !
Nice project and very good explanation.
Thank you Gary for stopping in.
Cast iron was easy to cut even on a 109 lathe .I faced mine off one day because it had not been done.
To true up the back, put the 4-jaw on, chuck up a decent size piece of round bar, clamp the 6-jaw (first adjusted to center on the back plate) to the bar. That combination should hold everything firm enough for light cuts on cast iron. You might even true up the hub of the back plate. (I could see it wobbling a little.)
LOL, continental drift!!! I have yet to experience such severe plate tectonics do at this elevation :)
PS, that ringing sound from the cast iron being faced sure reminds me of my backing plate...the sound is very distinct.
A bit of loose camera mount and drift. This can happen at any elevation.
Sound good. How have you been, hopefully busy.
Hi Randy! Nice work on the back plate. I need to pull my chuck off and measure the taper again. I'd swear mine is an L01 but you guys all seem to have the L00 in the same size / model lathe...
Hope all is well, sir.
Tom Z
Thank you Tom. Things are good.
Another awesome video bud! Keep up the great work 😀
Thank you I am trying.
randy nice work.
Thank you Bob.
Nice job Randy, that will make a nice chuck. I love my true adjust Gator chuck, it repeats to within a few tenths, next best thing to collets.
cheers :~))
Thank you Phil, this is a great chuck, dialed in to just a few tenth's.
thats looking real good, I may have missed it were you running in reverse to keep the chips down?
Thank you Brian, Yep, Had to because of the setup, chip control was a bonus.
nice job
Thank you Josh.
Nice!
Thank you Jason for stopping in.
Looking very nice, Randy. That seemed to machine well for you.
Did that insert leave a bit of a radius? Would that add any strength to help prevent the flange from cracking down in there? I've heard people mention that and was wondering if that applied here.
Anyway, great project for your lathe. Thanks for sharing.
Joe
Thank you Joe. Came out great, Small radius, a radius is always good when you can have one. It will reduce stress fractures.
Randy, this is interesting work. Great idea for the "labyrinth" to keep the chips and dust out of the adjusting surfaces. I like your eBay acquisition of the solid carbide boring bar and something I have been wanting to buy. Does it use CCMT 21.51 inserts? Thank you for the video, Paul
Thanks Paul. The carbide boring bar is great. Yes on the insert.
Newbie question here, I'm interested in how you think. At roughly 15:45 you state you measured .355 and the goal was .315 so you state "there is .020 to go". Are you usually thinking half of what needs to be taken off all total? Or do you think "I have to take .040 off, half of which is .020"? Just out of habit you must have some way of approaching this issue. I bounce back and forth and do get confused sometimes. Very nice video. Man, I'm still learning and enjoying learning (as well as doing). I should have started 50 years ago!
You feed in .020 but it takes that cut off the entire diameter. Picture the work piece as a square and you're taking .020 off of each side.
Those 6 jaw chucks are real expensive to buy.
This one new is $2400.
Huff Dah!
How does a 6 jaw compare to a collet for repeatability after removal? Does it hold concentricity well?
A good chuck is almost as good. Mine is an adjust true so when it is dialed in with machined or ground rod, within 0.0005" usually not a problem.
@@RRINTHESHOP damn it I was hoping you would say piss poor .... Looks like I gotta ear mark a grand or 2 lol.
They are also great for holding tubes without distortion.
@@RRINTHESHOP that makes sense. I have spent the last 20odd minutes shopping for one lol
are you safe from the currant fires.
We have been lucky so far, the worst month is coming.