Ep 13 | Surf Hacks | Shaper for 20+ years Breaks Down The Science of Surfboards

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  • Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
  • Deconstructing Surfboards and the stuff you thought you knew.
    linktr.ee/ombe​
    / surfhacks

Комментарии • 45

  • @user-to5qq2on2q
    @user-to5qq2on2q 2 года назад +11

    Thank you so much for all of your knowledge!
    There is no doubt at all that this is the best surfing channel in the history of RUclips !!!
    Love from Israel!

  • @pg5420
    @pg5420 3 года назад +8

    #replay Another goldmine. Surfed 20+ years but since ive been tuning into 'Master Clayton' ive experienced evolutionary leaps in performance like never before. Nothing is harder than critically beaking down personal flaws to rebuild again, but knowing that Clayton's knowledge comes from his own critical self analysis (after an encounter with Kelly Slater covered in another video) has made the tortuous process much easier. I feast on the surf geek details, and the admirably ego free approach of you both makes it all much easier to digest. Bravo guys

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад

      Thank you for your kind words, So stoked you're learning a thing or two from our show.

    • @alanthomson5331
      @alanthomson5331 3 года назад +1

      So I must agree PG. Love all the content from these guys. Being a average Joe in the surf and have never been coached I've had to unlearn a lots of bad habits from over 45yrs surfing. Such a great resource from Clayton who unselfishly gives his time and knowledge. Turning 64 this year and still surfing shortboards my injuries have been catching up to me. Pop up, rail and tail knowledge, have been a revelation to my surfing. (My fitness and drive to keep learning has kept me in the water) Now Clayton you just have to tell me how to deal with the crowds.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад +1

      @@alanthomson5331 Keep an eye up for future content. We will cover it.

  • @steve-g-
    @steve-g- 3 года назад +8

    Wow. Definitely the best and most mind-blowing discussion on surfboard design I’ve ever seen. Learned so much - absolute gem of a video!

    • @carterlucian8027
      @carterlucian8027 3 года назад

      You prolly dont care but if you are bored like me during the covid times you can watch all the latest movies on Instaflixxer. Have been binge watching with my brother for the last few days xD

    • @ishaandane3445
      @ishaandane3445 3 года назад

      @Carter Lucian Yea, I've been watching on instaflixxer for since december myself :)

  • @kylewattssurfing3266
    @kylewattssurfing3266 Год назад +2

    Rewatching this video over again is like taking an online surfboard University class!!!

  • @raphaellegg
    @raphaellegg 9 месяцев назад

    After many years of surfing, I finally understand the physics of surfing and the reason of the shape"s board! Thanks, Clay! Thanks, Ant!

  • @kylewattssurfing3266
    @kylewattssurfing3266 Год назад +1

    Super ammmmaaaazzzzzinnnngggg surfboard education!!!!!!!! Some of the best and one of the best surfboard education videos I've ever, ever, ever seen on the internet!!!
    Thank you, thank you, thank you very much... This video helps us all understand tremendouslyyy what to expect out of the surfboards that we buy in the future and add to our growing and changing surfboard quivers...
    HAPPY SURFING FROM VIRGINIA BEACH, VIRGINIA!!!!

  • @petecadmus5871
    @petecadmus5871 Год назад +1

    About Asymmetrical Boards at 1hr36min. For the same reason snowboards were asymmetric in the mid to late 90s. This was really appreciated by some of the carving and race folks. As a carver and biologist I partly felt they only dropped this option because they were losing money on us goofyfooters. Surely body mechanics must not be the same heel vs tow. But the companies, even in the non-corporate ones, claim the asymmetric snowboards were no longer needed as carvers pointed both toes more forward, oriented shoulders straight forward and re-positioned the hip directly over the board (no longer popping a squat like on a potty when on the heel side turn). This proper skidfree carving stance is quite similar to the "coffee cup holding" weight forward upright stance you advocate in your videos. Do you feel there really is a difference in heel vs toe turns on surf boards when one has good form?

  • @chriscorrell707
    @chriscorrell707 3 года назад +4

    Epic show tonight...well done guys!

  • @dafyddhunter159
    @dafyddhunter159 3 года назад +2

    Awesome video - so many nuggets of information 🤙 Now starting to understand how different boards and shapes work and why you need the right board for the surf conditions. Thanks guys 🤙

  • @jonniejlo
    @jonniejlo 2 года назад +1

    Great stuff guys!

  • @carlosguerrero7101
    @carlosguerrero7101 2 года назад +2

    LOL, so much info even in old videos WOW....since i been follow you guys really is mind blowing so much information about surf and all around it.... TOP

  • @chrislevuiqes2759
    @chrislevuiqes2759 3 года назад +3

    You guys are gold!!

  • @jaini.guevara
    @jaini.guevara Год назад

    #replay catching up all episodes of SURF HACKS yeew! Learned a lot!

  • @markpeters3549
    @markpeters3549 3 года назад +3

    Top show guys. Really good content.

  • @joespeakman5742
    @joespeakman5742 11 месяцев назад +1

    Such great content as always. I'd love to hear your guys thoughts on Geoff McCoy and his Nugget designs and loaded dome. He has gone against the grain in the surfing industry for nearly 40 years out of Byron Bay. His boards are like nothing else but maybe not so easy on the eye. Some people excuse of of cheating riding his boards as they are so forgiving. I've lost count the amount of times I've had funny looks as the plan shape is a bit ugly but then people come up and ask me about the boards after they see me catch a few.

    • @norman-gregory
      @norman-gregory 7 месяцев назад

      Remember this brand decades ago...🤙

  • @rctrix9063
    @rctrix9063 2 года назад +1

    Love your boards 👍

  • @kylewattssurfing3266
    @kylewattssurfing3266 2 года назад +2

    Super awesomeness yeeeees...

  • @troyberghan6788
    @troyberghan6788 2 года назад

    Best video yet! Although i say that every new episode i watch

  • @ianmajor8227
    @ianmajor8227 3 года назад +4

    Like many hobbies, you’re only as good as your equipment (unless you’re super talented) good reason to speak too a local shaper

    • @pg5420
      @pg5420 3 года назад +1

      Dunno bout that Ian, top surfers can literally surf fridge doors! Although ill-fitting equipment can indeed set you back, ive just wasted ten years surfing single fin shortboards cos i was addicted to the hold and drive, only now realising i was using the extra volume to make up for shortcomings in my technique

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад +1

      It's about surfing the wave, not surfing the surfboard.

  • @btonk608
    @btonk608 3 года назад +2

    #replay good stuff!

  • @hdeso
    @hdeso 3 года назад +3

    Great

  • @vollemohrepermakultur9154
    @vollemohrepermakultur9154 2 года назад +1

    Question ? Long Time ago i learned from you that i habe to surf more over my Blackfoot, which made me more controlled and faster ? As i realised when you lean forward the Board kind of plows true the water , so when i keep a little bit more weight on the back i gain speed my Board glides over the Water ?

  • @geoffreyticker
    @geoffreyticker 2 года назад +1

    have you ever ridden a surfboard that was all rounded rails even in the tail ?

  • @5he1tied
    @5he1tied 2 года назад +1

    First hour has everything one needs to know about surfboards. Could do without QnA. Gracias

  • @vollemohrepermakultur9154
    @vollemohrepermakultur9154 2 года назад +1

    But if you lean forward it creates friction ?

  • @bcarrozza7144
    @bcarrozza7144 3 года назад +1

    Genius

  • @nondotorres8460
    @nondotorres8460 2 года назад +1

    Long boarding

  • @MattBlouinbluebird
    @MattBlouinbluebird Год назад

    #replay

  • @nigelsanderson4940
    @nigelsanderson4940 3 года назад +1

    #replay
    #whaleonrail 🤣

  • @joesurfdog
    @joesurfdog 5 месяцев назад

    kooks

  • @natslion
    @natslion 3 года назад +1

    #replay