Thank you very much for this video. I learned more about pattern making in the first eight minutes than I ever knew. Watching a true craftsman in action is a great privilege. Again, *Thank You!*
Thanks Jay, I recently had a viewer contact me with some great information about the Andy Anderson walk n draw rigs, he’d visited with Andy in his Leather shop back in the 70s, and commissioned an Eastwood replica rig from him, which he received in due course, from that he was able to give me accurate dimensions of the gunfighter stitch detail, and the contour of the gunbelt, so I have now updated my patterns to reflect this new information. He also sent a copy of Andy’s gun leather catalogue from that period, very interesting, not least the prices!, of course it’s all relative to the times you live in.
Beautiful Rig..useful tip...when cementing ......to prevent premature bonding, use wax paper between layers and pull out as you go.......works great...
This type of holster was also popular with law enforcement of the time. My department used them with model 19 S&W revolvers! Only ours were much simpler and the outer surfaces were made of black patent leather over a metal frame. The inner area touching the pistol was smooth thick leather. We called them bucket holsters.
Now just bought your PDF templates and looking forward to transferring to leather. I also made a template using your method here and so it will be interesting to see how close the two are
That’s good to know thanks, not sure what ‘in the worst way’, means, but I can certainly make you a Doc Holiday shoulder holster, check out my website www.londonjacksleather.com, you will find them listed there, all made to order by me.
Would you do a full patterning vid, with all drafts. Walking us through the mental/analytical reasoning for the changes as you go? I'd love to have the experienced maker's POV process.
Great video. I'm looking at doing one of these. I already have the 7 1/2" revolver done and am working on doing the 5 1/2" SAA. Just waiting on the gun to get here and have the snakes ordered. I'm glad Clint used one rig for both guns so I don't need two.
Actually, that is incorrect. They looked there same, but the rig he wore in The Good, The Bad and The Ugly was for a .38 caliber revolver and I'm pretty sure the other rig was for a .45Colt revolver
I had read years ago a story about his rig/guns, which were all his own property. They covered the guns more than the leather, especially the 38. There were two versions. one that would fire cartridges and one that was not converted. His guns had snakes on both grips instead of the right side only like replicas you see for sale now. If I remember right they said he used the same holster/belt rig for all three movies. It was made by Andy Anderson and spec. by Eastwood before the first movie. The holster was made to fit the SAA 45 5 1/2" used in the first two movies but the 38 from the third movie would also fit (although slightly loose). The movies were made in 64, 65 and 66. I'm also thinking now that if he'd had a holster made for the third movie gun (38 w/ 7.5" barrel) why not make it long enough to cover the front sight on the 38. I have a "fast draw" holster that fits the Ruger Vaquero "old large model" yet it still works with the scaled down New Vaquero and SAA Colt clones. They are slightly loose in it but it still works. As for the Eastwood stuff I'm now going off memory mostly so I could have missed something.
@@londonjacks8371 I just watched an episode of Rawhide from 63. He was using a rough out holster rig but the SAA had plain grips. Supposedly the Snake SAA was used in the season one second episode (only maybe). It seems pretty clear that he had the holster/belt rig along with the snake gun and brought them to the three movies along with the 1851 conversion later for Good Bad Ugly last movie. Since I'm doing a Colt Snake clone I'll probably get a belt/holster copy too. I can drop in my 1851 clone which is a bonus.
I agree with Scott Hamp there are two different rigs. I wrote an article on that in my blog here : dollars-trilogy.com//2020/11/20/eastwood-holster-rig-analysis/
Superb craftsmanship there. I have never seen a knife of the type you use, very interesting as well as the technique used with it. Have put in an enquiry by email - looking forward to hearing from you.
Excellent tutorial, I make my own leatherwork since 2014 for my Cowboy Action Shooting activities and as a jobby, and I've always wondered what kind of leather to buy in order to have THAT rought out look, any help will be highly appreciated, thanks!
For this rig I use a vegetable tanned leather from a local tannery to me in England. It’s a double shoulder split down to 3mm, it takes Neatsfoot oil really well and gets the colour I want. Where are you located?
for 22 guage you would be better served by 2 pairs of offset tin snips. I could have cut that out in a couple minutes with no need for sanding and further shaping.
Those tabs or wings you've talked about are stabilizing wings which, as you've also said, keeps the holster in place on the belt and doesn't let the holster come up with the gun And I believe that Arvo Ojala, who made a good portion of the rigs in Hollywood, got the idea for Scott Glenn's rig in Silverado from Andy Anderson's Walk n Draw of the canted holster. But Anderson got the steel holster insert from Ojala
I'm retired so got lot of time to kill, like to start my own lather working, so how to get started is my question. Thanks a lot. hope to hear from you soon.
If you’re in the USA a good place to start is with Tandy Leather, either in store or online, they have everything needed to get you going and are very helpful, its the way I started.
I use a metal primer followed by two coats of contact adhesive, that fully protects the metal. If you added more Neatsfoot oil it would just make it darker, and to much oil is not good for the leather. A soft brush would work for cleaning the rough out leather, over time leather items do acquire knocks an scuffs etc which give the items a unique character.
Hey London jack I’m having trouble getting the correct length of my pattern drawn on paper. How much excess do you draw on your template to compensate for when the gun is in the folded template?
That will depend on the thickness of your leather but 3/4” is a good starting point, test it out using some scrap leather first and adjust it accordingly, on a new pattern I will make several test pieces to get the final dimensions figured out.
It’s about 3mm, or 7/8 oz, two pieces laminated together for the belt and holster, I get mine split at the tannery, but it should be available in that thickness from all good suppliers.
@@londonjacks8371 Essentially, i use 2 left-handed holsters near the front of my rig. I use straight up, because there is some advantage to being able to pull them on the run during a stage without breaking the 170 rule.
It’s supposed to have a steel liner as did Andy Anderson’s original fast draw holster design, its there for the purpose of creating a rigid fast draw holster with no need for a leg strap.
You could probably use aluminium, it would need to bit a thicker, maybe 1.5- 2mm to have a similar rigidity, particularly on the “wings”, I don’t thick the weight savings would make much of a difference overall. The pattern would need to be enlarged slightly to take account of the extra metal thickness.
Thank you very much for this video. I learned more about pattern making in the first eight minutes than I ever knew. Watching a true craftsman in action is a great privilege. Again, *Thank You!*
Thanks for watching and your comments, very much appreciated 👍🍻
Amazing that he teaches you and shows you rather than tells you.
Cool tip on the hole punch for tigh corners. I never thought of that! Awesome rig, Jack.
"Your eyes are the best tool....".
People should apply that wisdom to the claims of "experts" and "officials".
I like that you included the history of the rig & design.
As someone who's researched a lot on this subject your reproduction is one of the best I've seen. The quality shows!
Thanks Jay,
I recently had a viewer contact me with some great information about the Andy Anderson walk n draw rigs, he’d visited with Andy in his Leather shop back in the 70s, and commissioned an Eastwood replica rig from him, which he received in due course, from that he was able to give me accurate dimensions of the gunfighter stitch detail, and the contour of the gunbelt, so I have now updated my patterns to reflect this new information.
He also sent a copy of Andy’s gun leather catalogue from that period, very interesting, not least the prices!, of course it’s all relative to the times you live in.
I had never thought of using punches for the tight corners, thank you! That will make things so much easier and neater
Beautiful Rig..useful tip...when cementing ......to prevent premature bonding, use wax paper between layers and pull out as you go.......works great...
Stephen Maniloff
That’s a good idea, it try it, thanks.
You are an amazing craftsman. Great work.
This type of holster was also popular with law enforcement of the time. My department used them with model 19 S&W revolvers! Only ours were much simpler and the outer surfaces were made of black patent leather over a metal frame. The inner area touching the pistol was smooth thick leather. We called them bucket holsters.
Very interesting, that term Bucket holster is used over here by some fast draw enthusiasts.
really great video, I learned a TON. Thank you!
Thanks for your comment, its much appreciated, good to know you found it interesting.
Awesome video, really interesting to watch. I genuinely enjoyed it. 👌🏻👍🏻
"There are two kinds of people my friend, those with impressive repro holsters and those who dig, you dig"
"excelente" loved it!
Now just bought your PDF templates and looking forward to transferring to leather. I also made a template using your method here and so it will be interesting to see how close the two are
Found out about you after Will Roberts mentioned you one of his videos. I want one of your Doc Holliday shoulder holsters in the worst way.
That’s good to know thanks, not sure what ‘in the worst way’, means, but I can certainly make you a Doc Holiday shoulder holster, check out my website www.londonjacksleather.com, you will find them listed there, all made to order by me.
Thank you for showing process
Would you do a full patterning vid, with all drafts. Walking us through the mental/analytical reasoning for the changes as you go? I'd love to have the experienced maker's POV process.
Yes I’ll certainly try and do that in a future video.
Jack I love your videos and channel! I am a new subscriber and look forward to future videos as well
Thank you and thanks for subscribing.
Great video. I'm looking at doing one of these. I already have the 7 1/2" revolver done and am working on doing the 5 1/2" SAA. Just waiting on the gun to get here and have the snakes ordered. I'm glad Clint used one rig for both guns so I don't need two.
Actually, that is incorrect. They looked there same, but the rig he wore in The Good, The Bad and The Ugly was for a .38 caliber revolver and I'm pretty sure the other rig was for a .45Colt revolver
I had read years ago a story about his rig/guns, which were all his own property. They covered the guns more than the leather, especially the 38. There were two versions. one that would fire cartridges and one that was not converted. His guns had snakes on both grips instead of the right side only like replicas you see for sale now. If I remember right they said he used the same holster/belt rig for all three movies. It was made by Andy Anderson and spec. by Eastwood before the first movie. The holster was made to fit the SAA 45 5 1/2" used in the first two movies but the 38 from the third movie would also fit (although slightly loose). The movies were made in 64, 65 and 66. I'm also thinking now that if he'd had a holster made for the third movie gun (38 w/ 7.5" barrel) why not make it long enough to cover the front sight on the 38. I have a "fast draw" holster that fits the Ruger Vaquero "old large model" yet it still works with the scaled down New Vaquero and SAA Colt clones. They are slightly loose in it but it still works. As for the Eastwood stuff I'm now going off memory mostly so I could have missed something.
It was a great holster design by Andy Anderson, it was made for the 5 1/2” SA but the Navy also fits as well as the SA 7 1/2”.
@@londonjacks8371 I just watched an episode of Rawhide from 63. He was using a rough out holster rig but the SAA had plain grips. Supposedly the Snake SAA was used in the season one second episode (only maybe). It seems pretty clear that he had the holster/belt rig along with the snake gun and brought them to the three movies along with the 1851 conversion later for Good Bad Ugly last movie. Since I'm doing a Colt Snake clone I'll probably get a belt/holster copy too. I can drop in my 1851 clone which is a bonus.
I agree with Scott Hamp there are two different rigs. I wrote an article on that in my blog here : dollars-trilogy.com//2020/11/20/eastwood-holster-rig-analysis/
Gracias 👍
Obrigado! (From Brazil)
Superb craftsmanship there. I have never seen a knife of the type you use, very interesting as well as the technique used with it. Have put in an enquiry by email - looking forward to hearing from you.
Excellent tutorial, I make my own leatherwork since 2014 for my Cowboy Action Shooting activities and as a jobby, and I've always wondered what kind of leather to buy in order to have THAT rought out look, any help will be highly appreciated, thanks!
For this rig I use a vegetable tanned leather from a local tannery to me in England.
It’s a double shoulder split down to 3mm, it takes Neatsfoot oil really well and gets the colour I want.
Where are you located?
for 22 guage you would be better served by 2 pairs of offset tin snips. I could have cut that out in a couple minutes with no need for sanding and further shaping.
Those tabs or wings you've talked about are stabilizing wings which, as you've also said, keeps the holster in place on the belt and doesn't let the holster come up with the gun
And I believe that Arvo Ojala, who made a good portion of the rigs in Hollywood, got the idea for Scott Glenn's rig in Silverado from Andy Anderson's Walk n Draw of the canted holster. But Anderson got the steel holster insert from Ojala
Arvo, Andy & Alfonso, legends in gun leather!, sure would have liked to have met those guys.
@@londonjacks8371 funny thing is, Alfonso's company is still in business today
His son runs the business now I believe.
@@londonjacks8371 here's a video of Alfonso's:
m.ruclips.net/video/mUv06l_8bGo/видео.html
Oh, I never thought to ask. Can you make the holster more like seen in Good, Bad and Ugly, with the forward toe cant?
Had to look up “Chicago Screws” my local fastener shop calls them Sex Bolts.
I understand jim arness used one on gunsmoke
So how difficult would it be to adapt this holster to a Ruger GP 100 with a 6" barrel? love your stuff that you do and how you break everything down.
Thanks for your comment.
Not too difficult, I tried a Colt Python with a 6” barrel and that fitted quite well as standard.
Excelente !
I'm retired so got lot of time to kill, like to start my own lather working, so how to get started is my question. Thanks a lot. hope to hear from you soon.
If you’re in the USA a good place to start is with Tandy Leather, either in store or online, they have everything needed to get you going and are very helpful, its the way I started.
In The movie it was a 4 1/4" holster with a 6" (?) barrel gun"
dale carpenter
The movie holster was made for a 5 1/2” SA, he also used a Navy 7 1/2” in it in The Good the Band and the Ugly.
K9 65R15 88H fondine per Colt 45 e navy
Love this video! Do you, by chance, sell or provide the pattern and stencils you created to make this rig?
Tyler Voorhees
No I don’t currently sell my patterns, but it’s really not that hard to make your own. Thanks for your comment.
Looking for pattern
@@donaldmosbrucker2531
Patterns now for sale at www.londonjacksleather.com
Yes patterns are now available at www.londonjacksleather.com
Excellent set of videos. Can I ask what weight leather you use for both the outer and the liner please?
3.2mm for both, that’s 8/9oz approximately.
For some reason I kept thinking about casper the friendly ghost.
Hopefully last question. When you glue your steel liner in do you have contact adhesive on both sides of the steel liner?
Yes glue on both sides.
I'd like to know where I can get an inline presser foot like that one (video 3) for the CB4500
Here’s a USA link to where you can buy all the various feet etc for the CB4500.,bit.ly/2OTyAfB.
Great video, what do you prime the metal with?
Would extra coats of Neatsfoot oil on the outside help to keep it clean?
Many thanks
I use a metal primer followed by two coats of contact adhesive, that fully protects the metal.
If you added more Neatsfoot oil it would just make it darker, and to much oil is not good for the leather.
A soft brush would work for cleaning the rough out leather, over time leather items do acquire knocks an scuffs etc which give the items a unique character.
What advantage is thers to the steel lined holster beside a stiffening effect.
To give it more structural strength and rigidity when wearing it, no leg tie required with this holster.
Hey London jack I’m having trouble getting the correct length of my pattern drawn on paper. How much excess do you draw on your template to compensate for when the gun is in the folded template?
That will depend on the thickness of your leather but 3/4” is a good starting point, test it out using some scrap leather first and adjust it accordingly, on a new pattern I will make several test pieces to get the final dimensions figured out.
Why when looking to buy a holsters they mention if it is metal-lined.
Metal lined holsters are made specifically for Fast Draw so it’s important to know whether it has a metal lining before you buy one.
what ounce of leather are you using? and where do you get it?
It’s about 3mm, or 7/8 oz, two pieces laminated together for the belt and holster, I get mine split at the tannery, but it should be available in that thickness from all good suppliers.
The drill attachment or "nibbler" you're using? Any advice?
It’s a double head sheet metal cutter, got it on Amazon, it works well with practice, eye protection essential!
hi jack great video would you have a pattern of walk n draw rig you would sell me
I don’t currently sell patterns, I might look into it in the future though.
What material did you use for the final pattern?
I use a thick card board from amazon, works well enough for patterns.
Where did you get your glass slicker
I picked it up at a leather show some years ago,
Barry King tools make a good one.
Hello I am watching the Eastwood video 1year what weight do you leather do you recamend for any hol
7/8 oz outer 6/7oz liner or 9/10 single thickness.
3mm outer 2mm liner or 5 mm single thickness
Hope that helps.
Can you mention fast draw rigs without mentioning Arvo Ojala?
Arvo Ojala, certainly another legend of fast draw Gun leather.
I will build one of his rigs as well.
I need to find someone to make me a LH, straight up and down double cross-draw, rig in this style.
I can make this as a Lefthand holster, but not as a cross-draw.
@@londonjacks8371 why? Even if they are just straight up and down?
Straight draw holsters no problem.
@@londonjacks8371 Essentially, i use 2 left-handed holsters near the front of my rig. I use straight up, because there is some advantage to being able to pull them on the run during a stage without breaking the 170 rule.
Ribs
Echo
?
Where do get apattern
I made this holster pattern myself, it’s not available to buy currently.
If you use the right leather won't need steel lined,
It’s supposed to have a steel liner as did Andy Anderson’s original fast draw holster design, its there for the purpose of creating a rigid fast draw holster with no need for a leg strap.
Are you saying patton or pattern?
Pattern
@@londonjacks8371 ahhh must be like the chips but there really french fries thing. Nice holster though
Just curious for your opinion….
Aluminum instead of steel… lighter… your opinion?!
You could probably use aluminium, it would need to bit a thicker, maybe 1.5- 2mm to have a similar rigidity, particularly on the “wings”, I don’t thick the weight savings would make much of a difference overall.
The pattern would need to be enlarged slightly to take account of the extra metal thickness.
@@londonjacks8371
THANX!
what is that metal cutting tool and where do I get one ?
Its a nibbler attachment for a drill, got mine from Amazon.
I now have the metal templates for sale on my website www.londonjacksleather.com