So much easier than mixing by hand or packing bags to dry pack. We do a lot of commercial so mixing isn’t an option when you need 150 yards of concrete. Its easier to get good at pouring trucks for us.
@@FollowTheFood if you track the extra time and hassle that min looks pretty good on larger projects. Picking up mixing and cleaning up bag mix kind of sucks
@@stich1960 oh I can agree ... I just did the cost comparison and at around 200 posts it does make sense, but anything under that would not be worth it in my opinion...
@@FollowTheFood kind of depends what you value your time at too. Mixing eats up a lot of time if you don't have a great way to mix it. I am a single guy with min equipment so I see a min of two hours picking up and moving material and equipment savings and about half or less the time setting posts so my break even would probably be much lower than 200 posts personally
I've been building fence for about 5 years now started off not knowing anything My friend and I started our own company I've learned astronomical amounts of stuff from y'all and Mr fence help me get through some very hard fix building times
Awesome work guys.. I own a fence company in New Orleans, so much appreciation for what you do. this is great content. I need to start working more on the visual site rather than using string line all the time. I strive for perfection on every job and I just want to be sure it’s all level and plum. Great work.
If someone doesn’t have questions about what you’re doing, maybe not fence related, they don’t understand the beauty and lunacy of your quality edutainment. Excellent video, as usual, great job guys.
I wonder, how the horizontal vinyl members are inserted, especially the bottom most ones, after the concrete sets up. Also how the horizontal spacing is measure and set.
Mixing “width” and “height” to end up saying “heighdth” is really a pet peeve of mine, and so common in construction, you’d think after hearing it all the time it’d stop bothering me...but no. Good work though and thank you for the informative video, I don’t have much experience with vinyl but I just contracted two installs lol so you’re a lifesaver!
Great information on dry setting post. Here in Southeast Texas the water table can be anywhere from 3’ below grade to 6” above grade. Please keep doing what you are doing. Love it. Thanks to all you guys involved.
Just get a hand mixer and rapid set cement with a bucket and another with water thats all you need take the same time just a little more effort but way cheaper
Love your videos. I'm starting a fencing company in the spring between you and Joe Everest I've learned so many pro tips and methods. Thank you for the time and effort you put into your videos
Just get a hand mixer and rapid set cement with a bucket and another with water thats all you need take the same time just a little more effort but way cheaper
Great video. Lots of questions that I've been wondering about were answered. I'm a noob and will be building my Mom a fence in the coming weeks. Subscribed and will def check out your other videos as well!
I’m definitely picking up what you’re laying down beautiful way of saying everything and giving everybody perfect insight on how to build fence like real fence man
Great video! One thing I’ve done that customers seems to appreciate is I always set the house post a few inches away from the window. I’m in Florida and folks around here like to board up windows in a storm so I leave them a few inches to be able to do that. Otherwise it’s a pain when the post is right next to it.
Just get a hand mixer and rapid set cement with a bucket and another with water thats all you need take the same time just a little more effort but way cheaper
Not for nothing but in Florida like the person said the insurance company won't cover the fence because it's not attached to your home FEMA doesn't think your fence is property or anyting of a physical nature as well
I just finished up about 165ft of 6 ft wood privacy. We used 2 sakrete bags per post, mixed them in the holes while someone held the post. In your experience, does using a concrete mixer and wheel barrow make setting post much faster and more quality? A lot of things I’m learning and figuring out.
Great video! Had an old timer show me how to back sight years ago and I’ve done it ever since. I’m surprised how many fencers don’t do it or we’re never taught how to.
I like the idea, and maybe I missed it, but how do you align the posts vertically? If you just eyeball the distance of the lower hole from the ground, you could be off by an inch or 2 every other post?
@@SWiFence You are 100% right, I thing there is a shame if someone is not asking😊 question - what the minimum size (width) hole should be for a 5x5 PVC 9 feet post?
I've been installing fence for over 20 years and ALWAYS use string lines for grade and alignment if it's more then a few posts. If it's windy then just use more stakes through out the line. A 1/4" to 1/2" variation in the alignment of and/or flow of grade is very noticeable to me and I like perfection so I take the extra few minutes to run lines and lay them out instead of standing back and eyeballing because that's not perfection to me. Only a laser or string line is capable of this to a level that satisfies my conscience but string lines are truer than even a trained eyeball IMO. I subcontracted for a guy who only used the eyeball sighting method on the jobs he installed and his work looked bad to me and many customers who complained. I would have to go back and fix it for him. Whatever works for ya. This is not one of my preferred methods but everyone is different. I'm gonna check out some more of these videos and see if any more of these methods spark my interest in adapting to my installations in the future.
I agree. ..a strong or dry line for sure. It only takes a moment more to do the job right. A dry line also helps with squaring up the posts. Just because its hard to see the discrepancy with the naked eye doesn't mean it's right. I will continue to use squares levels and string.
@@SWiFence Like you said, "DO WHAT'S RIGHT FOR YOU" but you left out "AND THE CUSTOMER". If I ran string lines on your residential or aesthetically critical commercial jobs after you were done, I'd be willing to bet that there would be several posts out of alignment and grade flow, even if it was only like an 1/8" or 1/4" and most likely more. The naked human eye is not exact in precision compared to simple instruments designed for achieving closeness to 100% perfection as possible. It's your business and your techniques. Best wishes to you as a fellow installer but a word of advice to those who set by the eye. I wouldn't be announcing too much info on shortcuts to just anyone with the possibility of future customers watching these videos and seeing that you don't run lines of precision and prefer to do it all by eye to save time and assumingly increase profits. Some may be intrigued but many may be seemingly skeptical and critical. It's comparable to a home builders arrogant admission of not using appropriate measuring and/or leveling tools and other necessary devices. If I were you, I would at least run the lines to make it look like you're trying to be 100%. JMO. Good luck to you sir. I still may incorporate other techniques of yours as I deem appropriate. I like your videos either way.👍👍
George, we're genuinely glad to have you around. 👍🏻 We're gonna have to agree to disagree on this one. This isn't a "hack" or "shortcut" for us--it's truly the best method we have at our disposal. It's faster than string, we believe just as accurate (maybe even more so), and quite a bit more reliable. If you've got brush, weeds, trees, hills, etc--eye sighting will get you to a true & straight product with less hassle and less time. We take pride in our work (maybe too much 😋), and we take pride in our methods. We see eye sighting as kind of the "black belt" skill in fence building. That doesn't mean we know everything (I bet you could teach us a thing or two we didn't know), but we truly believe eye sighting is a lost art in fencing. People have gravitated to string because it's easier (and sometimes a more reliable choice for the DIYer without experience), and over time everyone has started assuming that string is the "more accurate" method.
Just pulled out an old chain link fence that was dry packed in my buddy's yard. It was super solid in the ground, pulled them out with a mini excavator, but the concrete balls broke up nicely with a sledge hammer so we could reclaim the scrap.
Hi I enjoy your work i recently started a fence business and have learned so much from you. I am not at your level not even close but I hope to be someday. I have a few questions for you. Question 1: Do you manufacture your vinyl fences? Can I buy them from you? Question 2: Do you set your posts 6ft apart or 8ft apart? Question 3: How long are you rails 8ft or 10? That way if your 3 inches off on your post set having longer material really comes in handy to solve that issue on the perfect rail cut. Hope to hear from you I love that you are in Florida now because I am in Tampa Florida
Just did my first DIY vinyl fence. I had 29 posts and 292 linear feet surrounding my house. Let me say... I wish I DIDN'T follow your "Without a String" suggestion. I had a easy flat ground work space. My older, wiser, father brought his string on cement day to ensure we'd be straight...well, I told him..."I'm going to try a no string method of line of sight." WOW, do I regret that afterwards. The extra time to set up a string would have been MUCH MUCH better than what I ended up with. 80% of my posts turned out fine... but the other 20 % look low or too high, I had a couple that I didn't get to check as I had helpers on the project and I told them just line of sight... well they were hesitant and my wife scolded me afterwards for telling everyone "NO STRING today" just line up. SO, I got several that were a bit twisted, and some that stuck out too far and some not enough... just off. A String doesn't lie and it could of helped all us amateurs in ensuring that the fence was going to be straight. A NO STRING install...If you look at it closely... its off. If you don't look at fence other than the one time glance it looks great. BUT, deep down... you know it's off and a STRING could have made sure or at least gotten it closer. So,"CONCRETE WITHOUT A STING"... is cost effective for only the owner of a business cutting corners on time... And time is money, but for me... it bugs me now, knowing that my fence isn't as straight as I'd like. And yes, I did dig up several post holes and reposition them. IT also cost time and money.
That's rough. We would be frustrated too if 20% of our posts were off. Sorry it didn't go well for you, but it's not fair to blame the method. Especially if you've got a bunch of people helping you that didn't really internalize what they were doing like you did. Everyone not feeling confident is a good sign they don't understand what they're doing.
7:14 I can't wait until i'm retired and the most interesting party of my day is watching a fence getting built. Lol. That old dude was admiring the handywork.
Thanks for video. I said ain't no way! I did not realize this was how Vinyl posts work. I thought the structure was of wood and then the vinyl goes over it.
Thanks so much for showing us all the professional method! I built my house in 2002 and am replacing a 14 panel fence on one side with 6'x8' vinyl just like this. Would you be willing to share your thoughts of weather pouring (wheelbarrow from cement truck) and setting 15 posts (a straight run) all by myself is a disaster in the making or actually doable? The soil here in Massachusetts is very rocky and fairly moist, not very dry like your Wyoming soil. Thanks again for the great video work and sharing the knowledge.
I think its doable for sure. If you are worried order your concrete with some delay set in it (kills it for x amount of time) but once it wears off it sets fast.
@@SWiFence Well I can say after the fact now it is easily doable! I had a chance to get it done a couple of days ago and went for it, I used a metered concrete truck and he set the mixture very loose, basically pea soup. Filled all 15 holes and off he went. The first post I put in just hit cement and stopped! Turns out I had to pound it in (up and down) to get it all way down, the rest of the posts went in easier as that first hole was very narrow but they all needed to be worked up and down to get them in. They never went more than 2" down in one motion. I guess there must be a difference in the size of the aggregate between here and Wyoming? Even with the extra time spent I got them all set and they look good, just one is a smidge low. It would have been a breeze if the posts just went with one push. Thanks again for the Info! I would have never got it done that quickly using other methods.
how are you fellows and good job with the fence. I have a question on fence spacing. do you always do it like that and if so you always do 94'' inches on center and not exceed 96''?
Would you please give me a quote for an 80 foot vinyl fence with no dig and dig method of installation?One end will butt against block wall, the other a chain link fence. Thanks , you guys make it look so fun and easy.
Hey Analee! We would love to give you a quote, but we can't offer a quote here. You can access our online quote tool here to get started: bit.ly/swiquote
Love Your video wish I could do that however I wanted to ask you if you pour four bags of concrete and pour water in it without mixing it do you think that would work? Because the bags say mixed with concrete and water so might work what do you think?
Yes - any method will work, but they won't all be the same strength. We haven't tested the method you're mentioning, but we have tested dry pack vs wet set. ruclips.net/video/iBgWx2y9pj8/видео.html
@@SWiFence thank you so much for answering me so quickly you guys are really awesome! I'll be watching the rest of your videos for sure thank you so much for doing this so everyone can see, not everyone is as handy
Why I've never! I might try this tomorrow. Got about 20 post to set. What consistency are you getting on your Crete? Never mind listening to you explain now.
Yes, sure can. The closer you get to the 45 degree mark it's going to get a lot tighter and you're going to have to start angle-cutting your rails--but you can definitely do this.
OK, I’m wanting to put in a vinyl fence, I watched your video on installing posts and concrete that you had brought in, like I said, I don’t do this for a living, but if you said all your posts first, how do you get your rails and pickets in on the last part of the run
. I'm fixin to make my first attempt on a 300"er in rock hard dirt. Thanx for the video. Last time I built a fence. It was barbed wire. Did you drill the holes?
does the stab method create drainage problems? the instruction for my 6ft vinyl privacy fence with 5x5 posts (7' corner to corner) say to put the post in the ground and THEN add concrete. it goes on to say that concrete should not go inside the post. Im in zone 7b if climate is an issue.
Love your video bro I have two questions. What’s your opinion upon the vinyl plank that runs horizontal? Is it weaker than the one that runs vertical and doesn’t matter 6‘ x 6 or 6 x 8 what’s your advice on both very much appreciate it bro
I've never worked with horizontal vinyl, so I can't give you an informed answer on that. If it has a tongue-and-groove system it should still be just as strong.
Great video. Is a pvc gate supposed to be level? I have a gate with two sde panels connected to my neighbors gate which also has two sde panels. I noticed the panels on my neighbors side veer inward and not align with my gate. I just want to know if this is going to be a problem down the road
Would like to see the view of the sighted grade on the finished project from a distance so the possible imperfections would be more noticeable. Can't see this up close at angle. I'm just very curious not critical. 👍👍
Me and two other people could build 2500ft of 5 string barbwire pounding post at an 8ft spacing. Becuase we did not use a string line. When you can trust your eye you will move faster with less walking
I work in fencing here in San Diego and we set with no string lines! We also wet set our posts and never dry pack. However we don’t not sett using the stab method we prefer to keep the post hollow in ground. I am curious to know if having the post filled with concrete in ground is better than having it hollow. Do you have any input on that?
I’m curious, I’ve never built a vinyl fence but when you are planting your posts in concrete, how do you spread them enough to get the rails in when you get to a corner post?
If the rail length is correct you slide the rail all the way into one post, which gives you room to then slide back the other direction into the other post. You notch your rails to keep them from sliding out again.
@@SWiFenceso what would that distance be for standard 6x8 panels? I’m getting ready to do my fence and want to do it the way you did in the video where I place all the posts in first and then put the panels in. Any advice is appreciated.
Yes you can use a sono tube to reduce the hole diameter, you will want to fill up half way around the sono tube on the out side with concrete. This will help with structural integrity.
What kind of concrete do you use? when I try using the method of pouring concrete in hole then pushing a metal post in it doesnt go in easy it hangs up, I use concrete that has gravel in it which maybe what restricts the pole going in.
Alignment...check. Slope....check. How did you get the spacing of the posts exact for the panels? I didn't see you do any of that measuring. Did one of your guys come around after and measure distance between posts for the panels?
Nope we measured when we did lay out and we have an couple inches to play with so it's not super critical. If it were close to max spacing we would double check as we set.
@@SWiFence Actually, I saw how the vinyl fence is put together vs. pre-assembled panels like at your local LOWES/Home Depot. Looks very forgiving. When I did my fence 20 years ago, I had to make sure the posts were EXACTLY spaced due to how they secured with clips mounted on the side of the posts. Glad to see a newer easier design for my next project.
Get a stool and sight across the top of your posts, or put a mark on the side of each post and use that to sight (usually requires an assistant to point out marks with their finger).
No. You *can* tamp a post (which is a different method) using only the dirt you brought out of the hole, but you can't add sand and dirt and water back in to the hole the same way you would with concrete.
Gotcha. Our favorite method for vinyl is to drive steel posts and then sleeve over them with the vinyl (ruclips.net/video/23SacHpNIdc/видео.html), but you need the right equipment for it. Our other go-to is pour-and-stab like you saw in this video. 👍🏻
Not sure what you mean by fight the depth of the hole. When the concrete is the right consistency the post doesn't sink down any further than you place it.
@@JorgeDiaz-id1jo ahh from when I did my yard, I’m pretty sure the magic number 97” apart. I dug holes 12” in diameter with 97” being center to center from one whole to the next hole with 5”x5” posts. 12” inch holes allowed for some play . Should have been 15” holes around . 3 xs post diameter but…
@@joejones56 thanks for the reply, was 12” enough or overkill? I see on the instructions for the 5x5 posts that it calls for 10” holes so I’m curious to see if 10 is enough or if I should go bigger. Thanks again!
@@JorgeDiaz-id1jo that 3x’s the post diameter rule from what I heard comes from ASTM. The intention is for post strength and durability overtime, depth is also important depending on how deep your frost line is. You could probably get away with 8-10” hole but I would just do 12-15 for piece of mind esp if it’s your property.
Depends on the kind of strength you're asking about. They'll flex in high winds and then spring right back into shape, but if your mower throws a rock it can go through.
how was you able to get away by putting the fencing right up to the sidewalk, code in my area is 5 ft. from the sidewalk. other than that you have an eagle eye.
I set vinyl post, no concrete and they are very strong....you gotta learn the advantages of using a line properly.....its more about reading the grade, no guess work....and my line is set 8-9 off ground and give my height too....
Miles of commercial chain link doesn't really matter for perfect alignment or proper grade flow because it's for security and not cosmetic but you can't do shitty half ass work in a residential or business setting where quality of aesthetics is crucial. Perfection technique requires instrumentation meaning string lines for alignment and flow of grade in this scenario. In your case of a commercial situation then sighting in is generally acceptable. Chain link posts can always be hacked off to preferred height with a portable band saw or pipe cutter if blending heights for grade flow.
i near chocked when i see you guys fumbling around with a 2 foot level, get a torpedo level and slip it in your pocket, plumb is plumb.what works good for square posts is a post leavel with a small bungie to hold it on the post, that way you see plumb both ways as you stab the post.try it.you can always go back and check final plumb with your 2 footer ,not necessary though.
No, there's no end post in the middle of the line. Yes, folks who haven't had the experience may have a much easier time of it if they run a string. But if you do this on the regular and don't want to worry about wind and shrubbery and longer distances--this is the way to go.
The only way you can actually push the post down through the cement or concrete is if you have a lot of extra water in it but when you have a lot of water in it supposedly the concrete is much weaker and will crack much easier and when I tried to push a post through the concrete when the post wasn't already in the hole ahead of time it literally wouldn't go down at all unlike how you're doing it where it seems to go down extremely easy because I think you guys are putting too much water mixed with the concrete which makes it weaker but whatever works for you.
We like to have it coming off the truck at a 4 or 5 slump. Which is not anywhere close to too much water. To be sure if you're running it a lot thicker it's going to be significantly harder to use this method.
Build fence every day, do you? 🙄 Honestly if you're used to a string you might be better off sticking to a string for a one-time installation. It's definitely a skill.
This is the most inefficient way to install a fence. Good night. 1. Dry setters always win. 2. Set line keys. Hang string tight and clear string w machete and recip. Installers mark, auger, clean, set em dry, set em tight. 3. Set gate keys. Concrete to 2” below grade. Set them 1-2” high. Never raise a post unless you absolutely messed up. This guy is wasting major labor $ with this method. He even ordered a concrete truck! Huge money leaks going on here.
This is the second fence video I saw fence builders bring in a delivery of concrete to set posts. That's crazy to me!
So much easier than mixing by hand or packing bags to dry pack. We do a lot of commercial so mixing isn’t an option when you need 150 yards of concrete. Its easier to get good at pouring trucks for us.
@@SWiFence I get it easier but does the cost wash with doing it yourself? Our local guys have a 3.5 yard minimum for free delivery
@@FollowTheFood if you track the extra time and hassle that min looks pretty good on larger projects. Picking up mixing and cleaning up bag mix kind of sucks
@@stich1960 oh I can agree ... I just did the cost comparison and at around 200 posts it does make sense, but anything under that would not be worth it in my opinion...
@@FollowTheFood kind of depends what you value your time at too. Mixing eats up a lot of time if you don't have a great way to mix it. I am a single guy with min equipment so I see a min of two hours picking up and moving material and equipment savings and about half or less the time setting posts so my break even would probably be much lower than 200 posts personally
I've been building fence for about 5 years now started off not knowing anything My friend and I started our own company I've learned astronomical amounts of stuff from y'all and Mr fence help me get through some very hard fix building times
You got this! 💪🏻
Awesome work guys.. I own a fence company in New Orleans, so much appreciation for what you do. this is great content. I need to start working more on the visual site rather than using string line all the time. I strive for perfection on every job and I just want to be sure it’s all level and plum. Great work.
Awesome! Thank you!
Hello, is there a vinyl brand you recommend? I’m trying to install one myself
If someone doesn’t have questions about what you’re doing, maybe not fence related, they don’t understand the beauty and lunacy of your quality edutainment. Excellent video, as usual, great job guys.
Way more efficient. Wanting to install my own fence and really appreciate your video. Way more simple than any other video
Great to hear!
I use to be a fence installer for 25 years ,I have see lots other videos you. Guys are the best installers out there
I wonder, how the horizontal vinyl members are inserted, especially the bottom most ones, after the concrete sets up. Also how the horizontal spacing is measure and set.
Mixing “width” and “height” to end up saying “heighdth” is really a pet peeve of mine, and so common in construction, you’d think after hearing it all the time it’d stop bothering me...but no. Good work though and thank you for the informative video, I don’t have much experience with vinyl but I just contracted two installs lol so you’re a lifesaver!
Thanks and hi from New Zealand have to put up plastic fence this week never done one this was really helpful
Glad it helped!
You guys are doing a great job I like the performance of what you are doing keep it up
Great information on dry setting post. Here in Southeast Texas the water table can be anywhere from 3’ below grade to 6” above grade. Please keep doing what you are doing. Love it. Thanks to all you guys involved.
I assume you “dry pack” in those conditions?
Just get a hand mixer and rapid set cement with a bucket and another with water thats all you need take the same time just a little more effort but way cheaper
Love your videos. I'm starting a fencing company in the spring between you and Joe Everest I've learned so many pro tips and methods. Thank you for the time and effort you put into your videos
That is awesome! Love hearing that! 💪🏻💪🏻
Just get a hand mixer and rapid set cement with a bucket and another with water thats all you need take the same time just a little more effort but way cheaper
Great video. Lots of questions that I've been wondering about were answered. I'm a noob and will be building my Mom a fence in the coming weeks. Subscribed and will def check out your other videos as well!
Good luck! You got this!
GIVE THIS MAN A RASIE !! SO DETAILED AND INFORMATION. 👌
Aw shucks!
I’m definitely picking up what you’re laying down beautiful way of saying everything and giving everybody perfect insight on how to build fence like real fence man
Thanks!
Finally someone that says bracing is a waste of time and resources, I 100% agree
Thank you! 👍🏻
Great video! One thing I’ve done that customers seems to appreciate is I always set the house post a few inches away from the window. I’m in Florida and folks around here like to board up windows in a storm so I leave them a few inches to be able to do that. Otherwise it’s a pain when the post is right next to it.
No hurricanes here...lots of wind though.
Just get a hand mixer and rapid set cement with a bucket and another with water thats all you need take the same time just a little more effort but way cheaper
Not for nothing but in Florida like the person said the insurance company won't cover the fence because it's not attached to your home FEMA doesn't think your fence is property or anyting of a physical nature as well
Brilliant!
Great work, you guys install the same as we do in San Diego. Nice to see a video on proper pro installation.
Right on!
You make it look so easy. Thanks for the info
Love your videos man, I’m a firefighter and just launched a part-time fence business and I love watching your content, thanks for all the tips.
That is awesome! Best of luck!
I was a fireman for 12 years and just gave it up to move. Loved every minute of it.
Oh wow, I didn’t realize that, that’s awesome!
I just finished up about 165ft of 6 ft wood privacy. We used 2 sakrete bags per post, mixed them in the holes while someone held the post. In your experience, does using a concrete mixer and wheel barrow make setting post much faster and more quality? A lot of things I’m learning and figuring out.
Great video! Had an old timer show me how to back sight years ago and I’ve done it ever since. I’m surprised how many fencers don’t do it or we’re never taught how to.
I couldn’t dream of doing it any other way. However, we do use a string for the no dig vinyl system now.
First time on you station. Nice way you show how it’s done.
Very enjoyable and full of great info. Hello from Dingle, Ireland
Sláinte from Wyoming, USA! Glad you enjoyed it!
I like the idea, and maybe I missed it, but how do you align the posts vertically? If you just eyeball the distance of the lower hole from the ground, you could be off by an inch or 2 every other post?
Oh shit! A video on RUclips that is really good and explains things!!! Holy shit!!!! Thank you!!!
Great video and great narrator, thank you for that, this is the way I will set up my fence soon, no braces just the string - just in case ;)
There is NO shame in using string or having it on hand to double-check your work. 👍🏻 Eye sighting can take some practice to pick up.
@@SWiFence
You are 100% right, I thing there is a shame if someone is not asking😊 question - what the minimum size (width) hole should be for a 5x5 PVC 9 feet post?
12" wide and depth depends on how solid your soil is and frost depth (good solid ground 36" would do fine).
I've been installing fence for over 20 years and ALWAYS use string lines for grade and alignment if it's more then a few posts. If it's windy then just use more stakes through out the line. A 1/4" to 1/2" variation in the alignment of and/or flow of grade is very noticeable to me and I like perfection so I take the extra few minutes to run lines and lay them out instead of standing back and eyeballing because that's not perfection to me. Only a laser or string line is capable of this to a level that satisfies my conscience but string lines are truer than even a trained eyeball IMO. I subcontracted for a guy who only used the eyeball sighting method on the jobs he installed and his work looked bad to me and many customers who complained. I would have to go back and fix it for him. Whatever works for ya. This is not one of my preferred methods but everyone is different. I'm gonna check out some more of these videos and see if any more of these methods spark my interest in adapting to my installations in the future.
Not everyone does it to the same standard, that's for sure. 👍🏻
I agree.
..a strong or dry line for sure.
It only takes a moment more to do the job right.
A dry line also helps with squaring up the posts.
Just because its hard to see the discrepancy with the naked eye doesn't mean it's right.
I will continue to use squares levels and string.
Absolutely--do what works best for you. 💪🏻 But don't assume we aren't getting it right. 😀 Eye-sighting is a time-honored fencing tradition.
@@SWiFence Like you said, "DO WHAT'S RIGHT FOR YOU" but you left out "AND THE CUSTOMER". If I ran string lines on your residential or aesthetically critical commercial jobs after you were done, I'd be willing to bet that there would be several posts out of alignment and grade flow, even if it was only like an 1/8" or 1/4" and most likely more. The naked human eye is not exact in precision compared to simple instruments designed for achieving closeness to 100% perfection as possible. It's your business and your techniques. Best wishes to you as a fellow installer but a word of advice to those who set by the eye. I wouldn't be announcing too much info on shortcuts to just anyone with the possibility of future customers watching these videos and seeing that you don't run lines of precision and prefer to do it all by eye to save time and assumingly increase profits. Some may be intrigued but many may be seemingly skeptical and critical. It's comparable to a home builders arrogant admission of not using appropriate measuring and/or leveling tools and other necessary devices. If I were you, I would at least run the lines to make it look like you're trying to be 100%. JMO. Good luck to you sir. I still may incorporate other techniques of yours as I deem appropriate. I like your videos either way.👍👍
George, we're genuinely glad to have you around. 👍🏻 We're gonna have to agree to disagree on this one. This isn't a "hack" or "shortcut" for us--it's truly the best method we have at our disposal. It's faster than string, we believe just as accurate (maybe even more so), and quite a bit more reliable. If you've got brush, weeds, trees, hills, etc--eye sighting will get you to a true & straight product with less hassle and less time. We take pride in our work (maybe too much 😋), and we take pride in our methods. We see eye sighting as kind of the "black belt" skill in fence building.
That doesn't mean we know everything (I bet you could teach us a thing or two we didn't know), but we truly believe eye sighting is a lost art in fencing. People have gravitated to string because it's easier (and sometimes a more reliable choice for the DIYer without experience), and over time everyone has started assuming that string is the "more accurate" method.
Nice explanations and categorized per topic...
Just pulled out an old chain link fence that was dry packed in my buddy's yard. It was super solid in the ground, pulled them out with a mini excavator, but the concrete balls broke up nicely with a sledge hammer so we could reclaim the scrap.
Yes it gets hard but not like wet set or you couldn't do that.
Hi I enjoy your work i recently started a fence business and have learned so much from you. I am not at your level not even close but I hope to be someday. I have a few questions for you. Question 1: Do you manufacture your vinyl fences? Can I buy them from you? Question 2: Do you set your posts 6ft apart or 8ft apart? Question 3: How long are you rails 8ft or 10? That way if your 3 inches off on your post set having longer material really comes in handy to solve that issue on the perfect rail cut. Hope to hear from you I love that you are in Florida now because I am in Tampa Florida
I like the way you guys do fences
Just did my first DIY vinyl fence. I had 29 posts and 292 linear feet surrounding my house. Let me say... I wish I DIDN'T follow your "Without a String" suggestion. I had a easy flat ground work space. My older, wiser, father brought his string on cement day to ensure we'd be straight...well, I told him..."I'm going to try a no string method of line of sight." WOW, do I regret that afterwards. The extra time to set up a string would have been MUCH MUCH better than what I ended up with. 80% of my posts turned out fine... but the other 20 % look low or too high, I had a couple that I didn't get to check as I had helpers on the project and I told them just line of sight... well they were hesitant and my wife scolded me afterwards for telling everyone "NO STRING today" just line up. SO, I got several that were a bit twisted, and some that stuck out too far and some not enough... just off. A String doesn't lie and it could of helped all us amateurs in ensuring that the fence was going to be straight. A NO STRING install...If you look at it closely... its off. If you don't look at fence other than the one time glance it looks great. BUT, deep down... you know it's off and a STRING could have made sure or at least gotten it closer. So,"CONCRETE WITHOUT A STING"... is cost effective for only the owner of a business cutting corners on time... And time is money, but for me... it bugs me now, knowing that my fence isn't as straight as I'd like. And yes, I did dig up several post holes and reposition them. IT also cost time and money.
That's rough. We would be frustrated too if 20% of our posts were off. Sorry it didn't go well for you, but it's not fair to blame the method. Especially if you've got a bunch of people helping you that didn't really internalize what they were doing like you did. Everyone not feeling confident is a good sign they don't understand what they're doing.
Very very great you guys are doing a great friends work
Where do you guys locate
Thank you so much! We're in Wyoming. 👍🏻
7:14 I can't wait until i'm retired and the most interesting party of my day is watching a fence getting built. Lol. That old dude was admiring the handywork.
🤣🤣 I literally never noticed him before!
Thanks for video.
I said ain't no way!
I did not realize this was how Vinyl posts work. I thought the structure was of wood and then the vinyl goes over it.
Great content. Professional-Install, short-cut techniques...
Much appreciated!
Thanks so much for showing us all the professional method! I built my house in 2002 and am replacing a 14 panel fence on one side with 6'x8' vinyl just like this. Would you be willing to share your thoughts of weather pouring (wheelbarrow from cement truck) and setting 15 posts (a straight run) all by myself is a disaster in the making or actually doable? The soil here in Massachusetts is very rocky and fairly moist, not very dry like your Wyoming soil. Thanks again for the great video work and sharing the knowledge.
I think its doable for sure. If you are worried order your concrete with some delay set in it (kills it for x amount of time) but once it wears off it sets fast.
@@SWiFence Well I can say after the fact now it is easily doable! I had a chance to get it done a couple of days ago and went for it, I used a metered concrete truck and he set the mixture very loose, basically pea soup. Filled all 15 holes and off he went. The first post I put in just hit cement and stopped! Turns out I had to pound it in (up and down) to get it all way down, the rest of the posts went in easier as that first hole was very narrow but they all needed to be worked up and down to get them in. They never went more than 2" down in one motion. I guess there must be a difference in the size of the aggregate between here and Wyoming? Even with the extra time spent I got them all set and they look good, just one is a smidge low. It would have been a breeze if the posts just went with one push. Thanks again for the Info! I would have never got it done that quickly using other methods.
Love this! Rock on! 💪🏻
how are you fellows and good job with the fence. I have a question on fence spacing. do you always do it like that and if so you always do 94'' inches on center and not exceed 96''?
Great Job Nick! (Don't let him push you around ;)
Haha! Thanks Chuck! --Nick
Would you please give me a quote for an 80 foot vinyl fence with no dig and dig method of installation?One end will butt against block wall, the other a chain link fence. Thanks , you guys make it look so fun and easy.
Hey Analee! We would love to give you a quote, but we can't offer a quote here. You can access our online quote tool here to get started: bit.ly/swiquote
Love Your video wish I could do that however I wanted to ask you if you pour four bags of concrete and pour water in it without mixing it do you think that would work? Because the bags say mixed with concrete and water so might work what do you think?
Yes - any method will work, but they won't all be the same strength. We haven't tested the method you're mentioning, but we have tested dry pack vs wet set. ruclips.net/video/iBgWx2y9pj8/видео.html
@@SWiFence thank you so much for answering me so quickly you guys are really awesome! I'll be watching the rest of your videos for sure thank you so much for doing this so everyone can see, not everyone is as handy
Nice job dude 👏, thanks for those tips and tricks 👍 😀
I just subscribed to your channel, keep up the good work 👏
Thanks!
Glad you like it!
How do you fit in the rails and panels in once the posts are set/rigid? Do the rails bend enough to get them inserted into each post?
Slide the rail all the way back into one post, then forward into the other post. The rails are notched to prevent them from coming out.
Why I've never! I might try this tomorrow. Got about 20 post to set. What consistency are you getting on your Crete? Never mind listening to you explain now.
Now you have a good basis of info to give it a try.
Great video…Thank you!
Looks great question, can this type of fence be put at a angle of the corner? Maybe 60 degrees off corner .
Yes, sure can. The closer you get to the 45 degree mark it's going to get a lot tighter and you're going to have to start angle-cutting your rails--but you can definitely do this.
OK, I’m wanting to put in a vinyl fence, I watched your video on installing posts and concrete that you had brought in, like I said, I don’t do this for a living, but if you said all your posts first, how do you get your rails and pickets in on the last part of the run
Not sure I understand the question but perhaps this video will help. ruclips.net/video/VuZJkf9JzG4/видео.html
When installing chain-link fence, what do you do different when it goes over a hill
I gotta ask what you use for gate post inserts
. I'm fixin to make my first attempt on a 300"er in rock hard dirt. Thanx for the video. Last time I built a fence. It was barbed wire. Did you drill the holes?
You can do it! Yep--drilled with an auger on a skidsteer.
Great info.
What do you mean by rabbit post? I think you are referring to the end post from which to reference the middle posts for alignment. Is that correct?
Yes, correct! We call it the rabbit post as that's the post we are "chasing."
does the stab method create drainage problems? the instruction for my 6ft vinyl privacy fence with 5x5 posts (7' corner to corner) say to put the post in the ground and THEN add concrete. it goes on to say that concrete should not go inside the post. Im in zone 7b if climate is an issue.
Love your video bro I have two questions. What’s your opinion upon the vinyl plank that runs horizontal? Is it weaker than the one that runs vertical and doesn’t matter 6‘ x 6 or 6 x 8 what’s your advice on both very much appreciate it bro
I've never worked with horizontal vinyl, so I can't give you an informed answer on that. If it has a tongue-and-groove system it should still be just as strong.
Great video. Is a pvc gate supposed to be level? I have a gate with two sde panels connected to my neighbors gate which also has two sde panels. I noticed the panels on my neighbors side veer inward and not align with my gate. I just want to know if this is going to be a problem down the road
Hmmm, it's kind of hard to picture what you're talking about. In general, yes, everything about a fence should be straight and level.
Would like to see the view of the sighted grade on the finished project from a distance so the possible imperfections would be more noticeable. Can't see this up close at angle. I'm just very curious not critical. 👍👍
Noted. 🙂👍🏻 These videos are hard to shoot sometimes and get everything that should be in there.
Me and two other people could build 2500ft of 5 string barbwire pounding post at an 8ft spacing. Becuase we did not use a string line. When you can trust your eye you will move faster with less walking
Yes! This. 👆🏻
@@SWiFence but we pound everything ruclips.net/video/vbt1nbvWu8w/видео.html
We prefer pounding when we can as well. 💪🏻
Love the Sloop hat. Recognize them from. SRF stuff.
Sloop is a good egg. We seem to end up on the same channels for some reason. 😂😂
I want to have a dark brown vinyl fence but the contractor prefers to install white vinyl . Why?
Because he doesn't have dark brown on hand and doesn't want to bother sourcing it perhaps. Try a different contractor.
I work in fencing here in San Diego and we set with no string lines! We also wet set our posts and never dry pack. However we don’t not sett using the stab method we prefer to keep the post hollow in ground. I am curious to know if having the post filled with concrete in ground is better than having it hollow. Do you have any input on that?
You can do it either way, my opinion is I think it holds better and has a stronger bond.
FYI when a 2' level is off plumb like you said by a little that's off that much in 2' not 6' it will be about double that
It will actually be triple that in a 6’ post. 2+2+2
I’m curious, I’ve never built a vinyl fence but when you are planting your posts in concrete, how do you spread them enough to get the rails in when you get to a corner post?
If the rail length is correct you slide the rail all the way into one post, which gives you room to then slide back the other direction into the other post. You notch your rails to keep them from sliding out again.
@@SWiFenceso what would that distance be for standard 6x8 panels? I’m getting ready to do my fence and want to do it the way you did in the video where I place all the posts in first and then put the panels in. Any advice is appreciated.
How do you know that you're not digging into a utility line when you dig the initial holes? Do you call the utility company and have them mark it?
You bet we do. Your county should have a free locator service. 👍🏻
@@SWiFence thanks so much!
Did you drill the holes with a hand auger
We don't.
If your hole in the ground is too large can you use a cardboard pier liner to limit the volume of concrete needed?
Yes you can use a sono tube to reduce the hole diameter, you will want to fill up half way around the sono tube on the out side with concrete. This will help with structural integrity.
@@SWiFence Thanks. My hole is sort of cone shaped due to root extraction with a pry bar...so most of the volume is near the surface.
What kind of concrete do you use? when I try using the method of pouring concrete in hole then pushing a metal post in it doesnt go in easy it hangs up, I use concrete that has gravel in it which maybe what restricts the pole going in.
Ours has gravel too, sounds like it just needs to be a wetter consistency.
What do you guys use to get a 12” hole on residential? Bobcat MT100?
I will buy a bags of concrete. What kind of cement to buy?
Thanks.
You said that the vinyl fencing from the big box stores is poor quality. Can you recommend a high-quality brand?
great video...
Alignment...check. Slope....check. How did you get the spacing of the posts exact for the panels? I didn't see you do any of that measuring. Did one of your guys come around after and measure distance between posts for the panels?
Nope we measured when we did lay out and we have an couple inches to play with so it's not super critical. If it were close to max spacing we would double check as we set.
@@SWiFence Actually, I saw how the vinyl fence is put together vs. pre-assembled panels like at your local LOWES/Home Depot. Looks very forgiving. When I did my fence 20 years ago, I had to make sure the posts were EXACTLY spaced due to how they secured with clips mounted on the side of the posts. Glad to see a newer easier design for my next project.
@@SWiFence do you set the post less than 96 on center to ensure spacing is correct for a rip cut and not more?
Thanks!
How do you get the top rail to flow (or know that it will when the sections built) without having a rail in to see how it’s going to look?
Get a stool and sight across the top of your posts, or put a mark on the side of each post and use that to sight (usually requires an assistant to point out marks with their finger).
@@SWiFence this is going to sound like a REALLY dumb question haha, but what do you guys use to Mark the side of the posts (vinyl posts)
Usually just a small tic with a sharpie.
Can you use expanding foam instead of cement?
ruclips.net/video/iBgWx2y9pj8/видео.html
@@SWiFence legend! Thanks
Is there a vinyl brand you recommend? I’m trying to install a fence myself
Depends where you are in the country. We love National Vinyl Products out of Nephi, UT. We also happen to distribute what we love. 😉 307-578-8040
@@SWiFence I’m over in PA. Any recommendations over here?
Sorry--no. You'll want to look at things like wall thickness & UV protection baked into the vinyl so it doesn't deteriorate after installation.
@@SWiFence thanks for everything. Appreciate ya
How did you get the rails in there, with the concrete hard?
ruclips.net/video/edyGGWGyXxw/видео.html
Always do a A1 job
Thanks!
How do you attach or reinforce the post next to the house for a gate ?
(Without digging )
We've actually got a video coming up (eventually) about this! We use a steel reinforcement sleeve inside for the gate post. 👍🏻
How far apart do you set the post
We're typically doing every 6'.
Can you use sand and dirty instead of concrete for the post
No. You *can* tamp a post (which is a different method) using only the dirt you brought out of the hole, but you can't add sand and dirt and water back in to the hole the same way you would with concrete.
You can also drive a post straight into the ground without digging at all--again, different method.
I'm doing vinyl fence tho that's why was asking
Gotcha. Our favorite method for vinyl is to drive steel posts and then sleeve over them with the vinyl (ruclips.net/video/23SacHpNIdc/видео.html), but you need the right equipment for it. Our other go-to is pour-and-stab like you saw in this video. 👍🏻
Hey did you all use 4×4 treated posts as well or no posts at all
No posts at all.
how do you use this of fence if the ground is not even
can you add a slight slope
Absolutely. You want to roll with the terrain, but more smoothly than what the terrain is doing.
How do you fight the depth of the hole for the post ?
Not sure what you mean by fight the depth of the hole. When the concrete is the right consistency the post doesn't sink down any further than you place it.
For 8 ft. Panels, how far apart should the holes be dug (center to center ) oops you just answered I think.
Did you figure it out? I don’t think I caught it but i’m also curious on the distance.
@@JorgeDiaz-id1jo ahh from when I did my yard, I’m pretty sure the magic number 97” apart. I dug holes 12” in diameter with 97” being center to center from one whole to the next hole with 5”x5” posts. 12” inch holes allowed for some play . Should have been 15” holes around . 3 xs post diameter but…
@@joejones56 thanks for the reply, was 12” enough or overkill? I see on the instructions for the 5x5 posts that it calls for 10” holes so I’m curious to see if 10 is enough or if I should go bigger. Thanks again!
@@JorgeDiaz-id1jo that 3x’s the post diameter rule from what I heard comes from ASTM. The intention is for post strength and durability overtime, depth is also important depending on how deep your frost line is. You could probably get away with 8-10” hole but I would just do 12-15 for piece of mind esp if it’s your property.
I don't see how u got the right spacing unless the ground is marked somehow. It's gotta be pretty precise or your gonna end up cutting pickets
We always rip pickets. Equal spacing is a priority for us, we don't want full sections and then a short section at the end.
Why not a 4foot level, and string line is always good practice..
Longer levels make sense if you have material with variations, like wood. Quality man-made materials like vinyl or steel don't need a long level.
How strong are these plastic fence
Depends on the kind of strength you're asking about. They'll flex in high winds and then spring right back into shape, but if your mower throws a rock it can go through.
how was you able to get away by putting the fencing right up to the sidewalk, code in my area is 5 ft. from the sidewalk. other than that you have an eagle eye.
Thanks! Codes are different everywhere you go.
Can this product be exported???
Hmmm, haven't the foggiest...
I set vinyl post, no concrete and they are very strong....you gotta learn the advantages of using a line properly.....its more about reading the grade, no guess work....and my line is set 8-9 off ground and give my height too....
Interesting.
I do miles of chainlink we sight everything in no string lines nothing
Love it!
Miles of commercial chain link doesn't really matter for perfect alignment or proper grade flow because it's for security and not cosmetic but you can't do shitty half ass work in a residential or business setting where quality of aesthetics is crucial. Perfection technique requires instrumentation meaning string lines for alignment and flow of grade in this scenario. In your case of a commercial situation then sighting in is generally acceptable. Chain link posts can always be hacked off to preferred height with a portable band saw or pipe cutter if blending heights for grade flow.
i near chocked when i see you guys fumbling around with a 2 foot level, get a torpedo level and slip it in your pocket, plumb is plumb.what works good for square posts is a post leavel with a small bungie to hold it on the post, that way you see plumb both ways as you stab the post.try it.you can always go back and check final plumb with your 2 footer ,not necessary though.
You have an end post In the middle of the line... Takes 5 minutes to set a string and 100x better looking job
No, there's no end post in the middle of the line. Yes, folks who haven't had the experience may have a much easier time of it if they run a string. But if you do this on the regular and don't want to worry about wind and shrubbery and longer distances--this is the way to go.
No line?
Nope
@@SWiFence if you dug out your holes with no line how the heck do you get a basis while digging with a machine?
👍
Thanks Boss Man
The only way you can actually push the post down through the cement or concrete is if you have a lot of extra water in it but when you have a lot of water in it supposedly the concrete is much weaker and will crack much easier and when I tried to push a post through the concrete when the post wasn't already in the hole ahead of time it literally wouldn't go down at all unlike how you're doing it where it seems to go down extremely easy because I think you guys are putting too much water mixed with the concrete which makes it weaker but whatever works for you.
We like to have it coming off the truck at a 4 or 5 slump. Which is not anywhere close to too much water.
To be sure if you're running it a lot thicker it's going to be significantly harder to use this method.
look at that 2' level its blue and 2' lol
Why yes it is. You know I’m not a fan of the torpedo. Old habits die hard.
No dig. But you digged and used cement for the gate
This entire fence is dig and cement. It doesn't say no dig.
wouldn't hire these guys even if they did it for free what a hack company
Well someone seems a little set in his ways... 🙄
Its bull.....visually it might be ok...but none of the posts are square.....its a lazy installation.
No thanks ..ill do it myself.
Build fence every day, do you? 🙄
Honestly if you're used to a string you might be better off sticking to a string for a one-time installation. It's definitely a skill.
This is the most inefficient way to install a fence. Good night.
1. Dry setters always win.
2. Set line keys. Hang string tight and clear string w machete and recip. Installers mark, auger, clean, set em dry, set em tight.
3. Set gate keys. Concrete to 2” below grade.
Set them 1-2” high. Never raise a post unless you absolutely messed up. This guy is wasting major labor $ with this method. He even ordered a concrete truck! Huge money leaks going on here.
I love how everyone is an expert. My favorite part about this whole comment is "He even ordered a concrete truck!"
@@SWiFence I am an expert. I own a fence company. I live and breathe fence.