Thanks so much for the feedback and the sub Justin! I sure hope you enjoy your Polaris as much as I'm enjoying mine. Please let me know if there are additional questions you come across as you go through setup and your first prints. I'll do my best to answer them and I'm sure that will be helpful for others with the same question. You da man!
@@ARFTT I'm currently in contact with the manufactures about my issue, but I was wondering if you're having the same thing. The test print worked great, but since then every single print has failed to stick to the build plate. I've removed the plate, cleaned it, drained the vat and replaced the fep to no avail. Any tips from your time with the printer?
Hey Justin! I did have that happen to me as well on two occasions. The first time, re-levelling the build plate fixed it ( That's the process in the video where you remove the resin vat, loosen the set screws, put a piece of paper down, home the machine, press down firmly while re-tightening set screws). Getting it perfectly level seemed to fix almost all of my issues. The only other time it happened it was a file that didn't have enough supports and the model was too heavy, so even though that first layer started to adhere the weight of the model and the suction at the bottom of the resin vat once cured would pull it off. I fixed that one by manually adding additional supports and increasing the raft size (a large base that the part sits on. It gives it a bigger foot print and more surface area to adhere to the plate). I also increased the exposure time for the first layer. Having the resin cure a little bit longer to the plate should help the following layers. From what I've seen, that first layer is everything and it's especially important that the plate is ridiculously level against the bottom. If the level is eve slightly off, then it creates a gap and the resin just cures to the bottom of the tray instead of the plate. Try re-leveling first, then I would try printing a small simple shape as a test print and play with those first layer settings. Try increasing the exposure time for the first layer as well and see if that helps. Let me know if that helps!
My wife just bought this set up for me and I got it today. I appreciate the fact you posted this video, and gave very in depth details on the machine. The usb I got did not have the nozzle saved to it, only the toy deer figurine. Thank you for posting this video. BTW about your nozzle with the brown burn marks. I work with resin on a daily basis, IE fiberglass, metal set, carbon fiber, etc. Yes, you did leave the UV light on too long. The longer a UV light, or some other type of heat is on resin, it burns and can end up becoming very brittle. Not fun having to repeat a repair because of the first becoming to brittle that it peels away. Lol.
Thanks for the feedback Aaron! That's tremendously helpful. I still have a lot to learn about working with resin. I appreciate the info. As for the nozzle file, another RUclipsr also posted that theirs didn't have that file on it either. Very odd. Regardless, I uploaded the .stl file to Thingiverse. You can find it here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4684907/files
@@ARFTT i saw you replied this site to someone and was 1 step ahead of ya. Lol. Working with resin is easy, however this is my first time using a 3D printer with it. Again, I appreciate the video and the feedback.🙏
I have to say, this is one of the best reviews I've seen on anything. Super in-depth and kept my interest the whole time. Some points were repeated a bit too much, but well done overall. It just seems like something you want to put in a well-ventilated workspace. That's apparently the biggest drawback for me on this. Do you find it's very loud or quiet?
Wow, @Honest E, thanks for the awesome feedback! I know I repeated myself in a few areas, but I'm still getting the hang of this making-videos thing, so your honest feedback is appreciated. I'm sure I'll get the hang of it eventually 😁 And this is definitely something you want to have in a well-ventilated area. In my experience, the orange cover does a great job of locking in the smells/fumes for the most part, but there is definitely a strong odor to the resin, so you absolutely want to make sure it's ventilated. As for the volume, mine is really quiet. The only noise comes from the stepper motor moving the platform up and down and it's not bad at all. Thanks again for the feedback!
I got this printer for Christmas from my husband. Thank you so much for the detail in the video. I am using it to make cutters for cookies clay etc. I had no idea where to start. We’ll see how it goes.
Thanks so much for taking the time to provide feedback, @lilaah! That's a great use for this machine. You could probably print some decent size cookie cutters if you tilt them sideways on the bed and use supports (like I did with the nozzle file in the video). I'm sure you'll do great!
I've just purchased this printer. I already have many 3d printers but got this one at a good price. Just came to watch this video to check it out. Your reviews are great and you seem like a honest and genuine person. I saw you haven't uploaded in 5 months though. I hope you haven't given up making RUclips reviews. Cheers for the vid!
Hey @jake360flip! I apologize for the delayed reply on this. Man, I really appreciate the comment and the compliment. Life has been crazy busy lately but as long as you guys keep leaving encouraging comments like this, I'm definitely going to keep making videos! You rock!
What an awesome video! So detailed. I really appreciate all the time and effort you put into the video to make this intimidating process seem so simple. Thank you! One word of caution, handling un cured printed pieces with bare hands can be hazardous too from what i've heard. I'd use gloves for that part as well.
I appreciate the amount of precision and care that you put into this video. Just recently got this printer for my girlfriend for Christmas and i wanted to get a good idea of how it works that way i can set it up for her and print something. Thanks !
I'm loving this video. I just cleaned out my garage and now that the weather is warm (located up in Maine), I am about to setup the Proxima and Anycubic Cure/Wash station up. I'm really curious about the FEP sheet clean up, filtering old resin, etc I wouldnt have this in the house...too toxic to be inside, especially with pets
Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback @Where Nerdy is Cool!. I'm glad you're finally getting a chance to do some resin printing. I definitely agree with you that I wouldn't want to have it in the house. Some models have filtering systems on them for the fumes, but even still, it can get pretty smelly. Definitely better to have it in a garage or detached shop if you can. For my cleanup process, I purchased this kit from Amazon that includes a curing light, silicone funnel and a metal strainer: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088ZTMDRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I use the printed "nozzle" that I discuss in the video to pour the unused resin from the tray into the funnel and filter to put it back into the bottle. The filter grabs any chunks that may be loose in there. As for cleaning the FEP sheet, I just fill it up with some denatured alcohol and let it soak for a few minutes and then wipe/rinse it out until it's clear again. Make sure to wear gloves while you're doing that. Hope that helps! Thanks again for the feedback!
Nice video! I just bought a Polaris from Amazon today, thanks for the tips. do you know how long time do 3 models take to print? do you recommend to combine multiple models? (I'm assuming the time only depends on the height of the model?
Thanks Soso Song! You're very welcome. I hope it was helpful. In regards to your question about the time it takes something to print, that's going to vary a lot based on machine settings and the resin you're using. For instance, some resins need each layer to be exposed for a slightly longer/shorter time in order to get a good cure, so that can greatly impact the total print time if each layer is taking longer. And yes, you're right, it takes the same amount of time to print a bed full of models as it does to print one individual model so every time I print something I try to fill the bed (unless I don't want to waste resin). That's one of the coolest things about resin printing to me. Hope that helps!
Very possible that that nozzle model isn't manifold, or watertight. There are polygons missing in the mesh, making the slicer lose it. Open the file in Meshmixer (free) , and click on analysis tool whenever dealing with foreign models. It also has a mesh repair feature.
I'm probably going to buy this to try and make some dnd minis. I'm very new to 3D modeling and 3D printing. Is it really as easy as slicing a 3D modle and printing it? And what other videos would you recommend I watch to help me get started?
Hey @newns9649! Thanks for reaching out! As with any new hobby there is a bit of a learning curve but overall, yes, it really is as easy as slice and print. You'll probably have to do a little tinkering with certain prints to get them to print properly but my first test print with the Polaris looked great. Just make sure you take your time setting it up and it'll make your life easier down the road. Resin printing is definitely way easier and more detailed than filament printing but they both have pros and cons. I don't think you'll be disappointed. Definitely check out 3D Printing Nerds channel ruclips.net/user/3DPrintingNerd As well as Uncle Jessy ruclips.net/user/UncleJessy There are tons of great channels out there but those are the two main ones I watch for Resin printing. Hope that helps and keep us posted how it goes if you decide to get one!
As of now the manufacturer ran out of mother boards and now use a older mother board that only reads sv..something files. This means u can not use chitubox without reaching into the program files and editing the code
Haha! I almost did the same thing! That's why I wanted to make sure I included it in the video. I'm so glad it helped save at least one film from getting thrown out.
very helpful video, hoping more videos of this machine come up on youtube - Question: I cant seem to find out how to export files from Chitubox to a readable print file for this machine, with Voxelprint it works fine though as it always makes the .fdg, what are all the file types that this machine can print? is it only the .fdg files?
Thanks Christian! I'm really not sure what other file formats the Polaris accepts. I'll have to play around with that. Did you load the profile for the Polaris into Chitubox before you started? You shouldn't need to "export" the file. Once you have the model set up the way you want it, hit "slice" and it'll show you the slider with the preview. If that looks good you hit the "save" button and it'll ask you where you want to save it. Save it to the usb drive and select ".fdg" as the extension in the dropdown. (You can see this at the 36:00 minute mark of the video). Hope that helps!
my voxelab polaris has a 1620 x 2560 lcd !!!! I had problems getting it to print. It gave a message that 2560x1440 was the wrong resolution inspite of the specs that claim it is 1440. On the settings on the printer It shows a 1620 x 2560 installed on the machine !! .. GREAT !! So I changed the resolution in setting of Chitbox and it works great ! BUT !!... now what LCD screen do I get to replace it ?.. the Voxelab screen on their site might not be the right one !.. when I take it out hopefully I can tell what it really is and get the same thing. The only 1620's I can find are monochrome so maybe it is really monochrome --GREAT AGAIN !!! Stay tuned !
Thanks so much for the comment Debra! This is really helpful info for myself and other Polaris owners. I haven't experienced any of these resolution issues myself, but I have gotten several comments from other Polaris owners saying something similar. I would assume that the screen you have in your machine is the 1620x2560 if that's what the machine is telling you and changing that setting in Chitubox fixed the issue. But that's just a guess. You're right though, I went to Voxelab's website to look at their replacement parts and they don't give any details on the actual screen, they just ask you what machine it's for, Polaris or Proxima (www.voxelab3dp.com/product/9). I would have guessed that the larger screen was in the Proxima but maybe they changed something? Hard to say for sure. I'm just glad to hear you're back up and running! Thanks again for sharing this info! Keep us posted!
Good thinkin. Just for reference, I added chapters timestamps to this video in the comments that breaks up the slider at the bottom of the video player screen and shows the different chapter titles.
I have this exact 3d printer and it will print the supports but will not print the object i am attempting to print. I have a subscription to raging heroes and every time i print all i get is the supports do you have any suggestions i could try to help me with this issue. thank you for you time
hey I just got this printer. have been messing with it for a week and nothing i will print. I don’t even get artifacts in the bin of resin after a print attempt. any help? or settings that may help?
@@ARFTT Ok I got the printer omfg does it make a noise when the build plate goes down with the bed on taking the bed off and it stops but I must say it prints dam well-pleased with it apart from the noise
Thanks for the feedback David. I haven't read anything about not touching the FEP sheet with your fingers but it's generally a moot point because I'm usually wearing gloves. I recorded this video when I first got the machine and I've learned a lot since then. Care to share your source for the info about not touching the FEP film? I didn't see anything to that extent in the manual so I would definitely be curious to learn more. Thanks again!
This video is really helpful, sadly I'm having issues with my leveling where home stays 2mm above where I tell it to. Do you have any ideas of how to fix this?
Good question @Littlecaz4ever. Though I'm not a pro and I haven't experienced that issue myself, I do have one idea: Did you make sure to loosen up the two set screws that hold the bed in it's position all the way before you hit the "home" button during the calibration? It's possible that if they weren't loosened up all the way, then the machine didn't go all the way down to its lowest point when it recorded the home position. You might try carefully going through the calibration steps again and see if that helps? If that doesn't fix it, I would reach out to Voxelab's customer/technical support. I've found them to be very responsive and helpful. I'm sure they'll make it right if it is a defect.
I watched your video on this polaris I now own one ..the problem i am having is I was deleting some files I had on the USB THE POLARIS ALL PROFILE I LOST IT ...can you post a download on it please..I appreciate it thank you for your time!!!
Got a Proxima recently and after tuning the settings to suit my resin, I got the MAKE: ROOK test sculpt to print beautifully. I then tried to print the nozzle and while the supports came out looking fab, the actual sculpt ended up as a thin layer on my FEP. I'm thinking my support connections weren't strong enough, any chance I could get your .fdg file for the nozzle to see what the supports should look like?
So sorry for the delayed response on this @Kieron Walker. Did you get this figured out? If not, I'll have to dig around and see if I can find that .fdg file for you, or create a new one. Let me know!
This helped me a lot! Just wondering, can you print .cbddlp files? There's the option to save it as that after the model is sliced in Chitubox, and Photon File Validator saves in that format after fixing model errors too.
Oh wow, that's a good question Angela. I'm really not sure on that one. I don't have any experience with that file format. I did see that option in Chitubox but I wasn't sure about what it was used for. Sorry I can't be more help on that one.
What settings use and have you tried water washable resin ? im looking to do tabletop making tanks and figures so looking for make detail and make them strong to thanks
Water washable and standard resin is brittle for small miniatures. I use Sunlu ABS like resin it's flexible, and dropped miniatures don't break easily. Plus it's $24 for 1 liter vs $40+ for other tough resins. I tried water washable first and quickly realized that the brittle nature of this resin would make it not worth the effort to paint the brittle models. Last thing I want to do is spend hours painting a model only to have a arm snap off because it was knocked off the table or something.
Great video man, I am considering get one of this. I do have one question though, is it necessary to pull the rest of resin back to bottle every time I finished printing? Would it possible to just leave it at dark place for next print?
Thanks @fangzhou yin! Great question. I guess in theory you could do that but I think it would cause some problems: 1) some resins seem to separate a bit. You're supposed to shake the bottle before you pour it out. After some long prints with the gray resin I noticed swirls in the resin where it looks like it had started to separate a bit. I'm no resin expert so I don't know if it would actually interfere with a print but it could be an issue. 2) there could be random tiny spots/imperfections/debris at the bottom of the tray where a floating support or something cured to the bottom of the tray instead of coming out with the rest of the print. You wouldn't know it was there until you empty out the tray and see it stuck there and it could definitely interfere with the next print. 3) The lid of the machine isn't completely air tight so you still get some fumes leaking out and the standard resin is pretty smelly. Probably better to empty it out. Again, I'm no expert so maybe some other users can weigh in on this in more detail, but those are the prominent issues I see.
So I have an issue with builds not sticking to the build ate I've made sure leveling is correct and that I've sliced the software properly but still not sticking I changed my bottom exposure time to hope that would increase the probability of it sticking but all I've e gotten is a disk stuck to the resin reservoir any ideas would be appreciated.
I also bought this printer because your review. I was wondering what are your printing settings. I’m using anycubic resin and I have noticed quite a bit of fails. I have worked on the supports based on the fails and sometimes (example of my colossos torso print) the shoulder got a cut, I worked again on the supports and now the arm got a cut. So if you could please share your chitubox settings and if you do have done any testing with anycubic resin. Thank you so much.
Hey @Andre Gotz. Sorry for the delay. Did you get anywhere with your print settings? My settings vary for everything I print. I start with the standard default settings from the Polaris profile and manually adjust them based on what type of resin I'm using and what type of print it is. There's some variation involved so it's hard to just have one "standard" setting that works for everything. It'll get easier the more you do it. Hope that helps! Let me know if you make progress.
@@ARFTT no need to apologize for late reply, I really appreciate your help and all your videos. I had some bad experience with the printer they send me one used as there was so many scratches on the FEP and on the building plate. So I returned that one and got another one, same issues. So now I have purchased an anycubic photon mono, its arriving tomorrow, I’m using the plant base resin now and using lychee to slice my models. Lets see how it will work when I get the printer. But if you do have any settings I should use or know about please let me know. Thanks you so much,
Hey @Marcel Gring! My apologies for the delayed reply. I'm not entirely sure what the difference is. If I had to guess, it sounds like the screen resolution is higher on the one you mentioned. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the feedback @Jeremy Justice. Glad it was helpful. Always great to meet another Short Circuit fan. There are a couple of different models on Thingiverse, but this one's my favorite: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3800333. Happy printing!
Just curious if you ever had issues getting the resin to cure on the raising platform. So far mine cures to the film on the bottom of the vat I have no idea what to do.
Yes I have actually. There were a few occasions that I had issues. Here are a few things to check: 1) Make sure that you carefully follow the leveling procedure at the beginning. Make sure you loosen the two set screws on the plate sufficiently, use the piece of paper, and then make sure it goes home. Then make sure you hold the plate securely against the bottom so that it doesn't move at all when you tighten the set screws back up. Ensuring that plate is perfectly level and sitting flush with the screen at the bottom is tremendously important. 2) Make sure you load the correct profiles for the resin you're using. Some resin's have different cure settings. You want to make sure that first layer is curing properly to the plate. The first layer's exposure time should be longer than the following layers. 3) Make sure you use adequate supports. I've had a print get halfway finished and then release into the resin. The supports continued to print but the actual print just formed a chunk at the bottom. Turns out I didn't have sufficient supports to hold it to the plate. Once it got too far along, the weight of the print was too great for the few supports to hold it so it broke off and just sat in the resin. I increased the number and thickness of my supports and it printed fine after that. Hope that helps!
My bf just bought one. And it starts to print and then stops. Like the deer it printed the base and the counter continued printing but nothing was physically printed. Any advice?
Sorry for the late reply @Rebecca Billington. Did your bf have any success with figuring out the issue? If not, I have some follow-up questions that I'd be curious to know, but it definitely sounds like a manufacturing issue of some sort. Let me know!
Hey @NERY2099- CORP. Thanks for the feedback! I uploaded the Polaris profile to my drive. See if this link works: drive.google.com/file/d/11CxiNRhS3jkrL6lLlOLsJVP03QSiLEC-/view?usp=sharing If it doesn't, I'll try something else.
Did you figure out the problem yet @ItsAGrimskull? I haven't had this issue myself but I have seen similar comments from other users. Check out the comment from @Debra Womack. She changed the resolution setting in Chitubox and it fixed the issue. My guess is that Voxelab put a different resolution screen in some of the Polaris machines and that's what's causing the issue. If you match the resolution in your Slicer to the one that's on your machine, that should (hopefully) fix the error. Keep us posted!
I have a question possibly someone could help. I use cura for my 3D printer. I’m using voxeprint for my new resin printer. Could someone help my understand how to use the cut feature. I’m printing Godzilla for my grandson. The tail is too long to fit so I want to cut the tail and print it then glue tail back on. How do you keep the tail you cut so it matches exactly to the rest of the figure?
Hey @Davenohio29! (O-H-...!!) I would highly recommend you get to know Meshmixer. It's an Autodesk program that lets you do all kinds of things to edit mesh files. It takes a bit to learn but there are tons of tutorials online. It's a super handy program and it's what I use to cut/repair/edit mesh files before printing. Definitely worth the effort to learn. Here's a great instructional video by the 3D Printing Nerd about how to use Meshmixer to cut files for printing: ruclips.net/video/KyvBo6tkywc/видео.html And here's the link to Meshmixer: www.meshmixer.com/ Give that a shot and I think you'll find it does everything you need it to and more. Hope that helps!
I still have a lot to learn myself, but I had that happen on a couple of mine. I found a couple of potential causes you might try: 1) the bed wasn't leveled properly. If the bed isn't perfectly leveled it won't press flat against the bottom of the resin tray. If that first layer doesn't stick, then everything after it is just going to continue flashing the cured layer at the bottom of the resin tray. 2) You need more supports. I had a print make it about half way and then fall off because I didn't have enough supports attached to it (or they weren't strong enough). It ended up falling off, but the supports continued to print. You can manually add supports if you need to. 3) It's possible your first layer exposure time isn't long enough? The default times should be sufficient, I would think but again, there's a lot riding on that first layer adhering to the plate properly. Hope that helps!
Great question @Skies No Limit. Unfortunately I don't have a Mac or I would be happy to test this for you. Were you able to install the programs on your Mac?
That's odd @Chris bromley-west. I haven't seen that before. Check out the Chitubox forum and see if you can find an answer there. I'm sure someone else has had the same problem. Here's the link to the section of the forum that discusses bugs: forum.chitubox.com/?forum-3.htm Let us know if you figure out what's causing it.
@@ARFTT i couldn't find a solution, but there was a direct download on there for the most revent version, so i just wound up uninstalling it and reinstalling it through their website. also you weren't kidding when you said the resin had some stank to it the second i took of the lid it hit me ahahaha, mind you there's something nostalgic about that smell, i can't put my finger on it... either way i've just finished my first print, a tester for the nozzel, game out perfectly, and now.. my first DnD miniature, can't wait to see how it comes out, (i started small, just a brood of dragon eggs for now)
Are you using Latex gloves or Nitrile gloves? Google tells me Latex will allow resin to seep through the glove onto your hand. Double check, I want everyone to be safe :)
Did you try reaching out to Voxelab's customer service or tech support @Qwaurk? I've found them to be really helpful and I know they would have made it right if there was something wrong with your unit. Every piece of tech has bugs on occasion. Next time, reach out to the manufacturer or to me and maybe we can help you work out whatever issues you're experiencing. I have no bias and not much experience, but so far, it really has been a good printer for me. Sorry to hear that wasn't the case for you. Good luck with your next brand.
hey man! so whats the story with the plastic membrane cover for the resin tray?? does it have to be used?? or is it optional? I didn't see one attached underneath my resin tray to begin with so I dont even really know what to do with the thing! lol any suggestions?
So are you saying when you remove the resin tray, it's just a square metal "cookie cutter" with no clear plastic membrane across the bottom? You can see how it's supposed to look in my video. You DEFINITELY need it! If not you're going to have quite a mess on your hands and you'll probably ruin the machine. If yours came without one installed, I would contact Voxelab's customer support and let them know. Yours should look exactly like mine did in the video. The resin tray should come with one installed and the spare one is just a bonus.
@@ARFTT thanks man!! I actually do see now that it came with one but I peeled it off... I put it back on the best I could.. When you say installed.. it’s just a matter of sticking the plastic membrane to the bottom of the resin tray, correct? Or is there a more detailed method of doing this??
The one that comes stuck to the inside of the resin tray is just a spare. You don't need it if the tray already has the one it came with from the factory. And what I mean by "installed" is you'll notice that the spare film has a bunch of holes around the outside edge. Turn the resin tray over and notice there are screws on the bottom that hold the membrane in place. When it comes time to replace the membrane one day, those holes in the spare membrane will line up with the screws. You'll only need to replace the factory film if it gets damaged or wears out. To do that you'll need to take those screws out, remove the gasket, put the new film in place and re-secure the gasket so the membrane tightens up like a drum. As soon as I get to that point on mine, I'll make a video of the process. In the meantime, the factory-installed one should last you a while if you clean it real good and you keep sharp things away from it.
It's incredibly detailed! If you go to my review on Amazon, I include a few close up pictures of the detail on a small Johnny 5 figurine I did (the one where I'm holding his hand with tweezers), as well as the "lace" deer figurine that it comes with. It's pretty impressive. You can find the review and photos here: www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R5YC8T1I8KMXP?ref=pf_ov_at_pdctrvw_srp
There are a lot of places to make them. I personally use Fusion 360 (an Autodesk product) but it has a lot of features and a steep learning curve if you've never done any sort of 3D modeling before. If you're a complete newbie, check out Tinkercad. It's another Autodesk product but it's a lot more beginner-friendly. Here's a link to Tinkercad's website: www.tinkercad.com/
@@ARFTT I figured it out .. Check the settings on the Polaris you have. What is the resolution of the LCD? Mine is 1620 x 2560 !! Iy is NOT a 1440 LCD... it is 1620 .. probably monochrome !! I HOPE. I set chitubox resolution to 1620 and it works great ! Since I figured this out a few other people told me the same thing.
Yes, you definitely need to rinse the part and the resin tray off when you're done. If you're using water-soluble resin then you can rinse everything off in the sink but if you're using standard resin, you're going to need to use isopropyl alcohol or something similar to rinse it off. Just make sure you wear gloves! Hope that helps.
Also sorry to be negative cos I came here for the review about the machine.. but where are your protective gloves and mask when filling the resin tank?? Resin is nasty and dangerous stuff.
I always wear gloves and I would definitely recommend everyone else do the same. I wasn't wearing them for portions of the video because the ones that came with the machine were cheap and broke while I was filming. I've since purchased a higher quality pair. No need to apologize, the feedback and concern is appreciated!
3 thing, one this video cost you notting, if some part is not perfect, you can remake its.... a small part or hole...but that a very good draff. segond is the myth about alcohol and ultrasonic, that falsehood teacher use ultrasonic bath since 1956 for jeweler use...whit alcohol and other combustible liquid, there a bit more than 2 millions of jeweler that fellow academic formation before my retirement,... not once using alcohol whit ultrasonic,,, even big industrial one, much more powerful than your desk bath... and alcohol was never a problem, not one jeweler report a problem on any associations around the world report this... is a 3d printing myth... no Mather how many people repeat this joke,,,sorry but that the true fact. and the last a big thank for the video....its much appreciate.
Thanks for the detailed feedback @Jean Morin! I've seen first hand demonstrations in chemistry class with aerosolized alcohol, so I know it's possible, even if it may be unlikely. I'm sure there are variables that need to align just right to cause a problem, but if there's even the slightest chance it could cause a fire, why take a chance if there are other non-combustible options out there? Thanks for the comment! I'm so glad the video was helpful.
I have them and I definitely use them (and I recommend every one else do as well). The pair of gloves that came with the printer was really cheap and broke while I was filming the video, but you're right: always wear gloves.
Voxelabs are scum. I bough the Polaris, it is utter crap. loads of issues, now discovered that the LCD has pixels 'brunt in', and they wont replace it "The Lcd screen is a wearing part with a one-month warranty, so you need to buy a new one yourself" UTTERLY DISGUSTING. Also glitches in firmware, about 1cm up the build the layers get shifted, and ruins prints, they won't give you support and just waste your time. AVOID VOXELABS
I bought this printer because of your review. I subscribed because of your attention to detail. Great work my good sir.
Thanks so much for the feedback and the sub Justin! I sure hope you enjoy your Polaris as much as I'm enjoying mine.
Please let me know if there are additional questions you come across as you go through setup and your first prints. I'll do my best to answer them and I'm sure that will be helpful for others with the same question.
You da man!
@@ARFTT I'm currently in contact with the manufactures about my issue, but I was wondering if you're having the same thing.
The test print worked great, but since then every single print has failed to stick to the build plate. I've removed the plate, cleaned it, drained the vat and replaced the fep to no avail. Any tips from your time with the printer?
Hey Justin! I did have that happen to me as well on two occasions. The first time, re-levelling the build plate fixed it ( That's the process in the video where you remove the resin vat, loosen the set screws, put a piece of paper down, home the machine, press down firmly while re-tightening set screws). Getting it perfectly level seemed to fix almost all of my issues.
The only other time it happened it was a file that didn't have enough supports and the model was too heavy, so even though that first layer started to adhere the weight of the model and the suction at the bottom of the resin vat once cured would pull it off. I fixed that one by manually adding additional supports and increasing the raft size (a large base that the part sits on. It gives it a bigger foot print and more surface area to adhere to the plate). I also increased the exposure time for the first layer. Having the resin cure a little bit longer to the plate should help the following layers.
From what I've seen, that first layer is everything and it's especially important that the plate is ridiculously level against the bottom. If the level is eve slightly off, then it creates a gap and the resin just cures to the bottom of the tray instead of the plate. Try re-leveling first, then I would try printing a small simple shape as a test print and play with those first layer settings. Try increasing the exposure time for the first layer as well and see if that helps.
Let me know if that helps!
My wife just bought this set up for me and I got it today. I appreciate the fact you posted this video, and gave very in depth details on the machine. The usb I got did not have the nozzle saved to it, only the toy deer figurine. Thank you for posting this video.
BTW about your nozzle with the brown burn marks. I work with resin on a daily basis, IE fiberglass, metal set, carbon fiber, etc. Yes, you did leave the UV light on too long. The longer a UV light, or some other type of heat is on resin, it burns and can end up becoming very brittle. Not fun having to repeat a repair because of the first becoming to brittle that it peels away. Lol.
Thanks for the feedback Aaron! That's tremendously helpful. I still have a lot to learn about working with resin. I appreciate the info.
As for the nozzle file, another RUclipsr also posted that theirs didn't have that file on it either. Very odd. Regardless, I uploaded the .stl file to Thingiverse. You can find it here:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4684907/files
@@ARFTT i saw you replied this site to someone and was 1 step ahead of ya. Lol. Working with resin is easy, however this is my first time using a 3D printer with it. Again, I appreciate the video and the feedback.🙏
Great video...thank you! You helped my son and I get started after watching multiple other videos. Thank you!
I'm so glad to hear that it was helpful @thg78574! Thanks for the taking the time to provide feedback. Hope you guys have a lot of successful prints!
I have to say, this is one of the best reviews I've seen on anything. Super in-depth and kept my interest the whole time. Some points were repeated a bit too much, but well done overall. It just seems like something you want to put in a well-ventilated workspace. That's apparently the biggest drawback for me on this. Do you find it's very loud or quiet?
Wow, @Honest E, thanks for the awesome feedback! I know I repeated myself in a few areas, but I'm still getting the hang of this making-videos thing, so your honest feedback is appreciated. I'm sure I'll get the hang of it eventually 😁
And this is definitely something you want to have in a well-ventilated area. In my experience, the orange cover does a great job of locking in the smells/fumes for the most part, but there is definitely a strong odor to the resin, so you absolutely want to make sure it's ventilated.
As for the volume, mine is really quiet. The only noise comes from the stepper motor moving the platform up and down and it's not bad at all.
Thanks again for the feedback!
I got this printer for Christmas from my husband. Thank you so much for the detail in the video.
I am using it to make cutters for cookies clay etc. I had no idea where to start. We’ll see how it goes.
Thanks so much for taking the time to provide feedback, @lilaah! That's a great use for this machine. You could probably print some decent size cookie cutters if you tilt them sideways on the bed and use supports (like I did with the nozzle file in the video). I'm sure you'll do great!
I've just purchased this printer. I already have many 3d printers but got this one at a good price.
Just came to watch this video to check it out. Your reviews are great and you seem like a honest and genuine person. I saw you haven't uploaded in 5 months though. I hope you haven't given up making RUclips reviews.
Cheers for the vid!
Hey @jake360flip! I apologize for the delayed reply on this.
Man, I really appreciate the comment and the compliment. Life has been crazy busy lately but as long as you guys keep leaving encouraging comments like this, I'm definitely going to keep making videos! You rock!
What an awesome video! So detailed. I really appreciate all the time and effort you put into the video to make this intimidating process seem so simple. Thank you!
One word of caution, handling un cured printed pieces with bare hands can be hazardous too from what i've heard. I'd use gloves for that part as well.
I appreciate the amount of precision and care that you put into this video. Just recently got this printer for my girlfriend for Christmas and i wanted to get a good idea of how it works that way i can set it up for her and print something. Thanks !
Thanks so much Christian. The feedback means a lot.
I'm sure your girlfriend is going to love it. Happy printing!
Has your girlfriend had a chance to print anything?
if so, how did it go?
RUclips needs less youtubers and more guys like you.
What an awesome compliment 😁 Thanks @Bruno Willian Andrade!
I'm loving this video. I just cleaned out my garage and now that the weather is warm (located up in Maine), I am about to setup the Proxima and Anycubic Cure/Wash station up. I'm really curious about the FEP sheet clean up, filtering old resin, etc I wouldnt have this in the house...too toxic to be inside, especially with pets
Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback @Where Nerdy is Cool!. I'm glad you're finally getting a chance to do some resin printing. I definitely agree with you that I wouldn't want to have it in the house. Some models have filtering systems on them for the fumes, but even still, it can get pretty smelly. Definitely better to have it in a garage or detached shop if you can.
For my cleanup process, I purchased this kit from Amazon that includes a curing light, silicone funnel and a metal strainer:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088ZTMDRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use the printed "nozzle" that I discuss in the video to pour the unused resin from the tray into the funnel and filter to put it back into the bottle. The filter grabs any chunks that may be loose in there. As for cleaning the FEP sheet, I just fill it up with some denatured alcohol and let it soak for a few minutes and then wipe/rinse it out until it's clear again. Make sure to wear gloves while you're doing that.
Hope that helps! Thanks again for the feedback!
Thank you so much. I have learned a lot today. 👌
Nice video! I just bought a Polaris from Amazon today, thanks for the tips.
do you know how long time do 3 models take to print? do you recommend to combine multiple models? (I'm assuming the time only depends on the height of the model?
Thanks Soso Song! You're very welcome. I hope it was helpful.
In regards to your question about the time it takes something to print, that's going to vary a lot based on machine settings and the resin you're using. For instance, some resins need each layer to be exposed for a slightly longer/shorter time in order to get a good cure, so that can greatly impact the total print time if each layer is taking longer.
And yes, you're right, it takes the same amount of time to print a bed full of models as it does to print one individual model so every time I print something I try to fill the bed (unless I don't want to waste resin). That's one of the coolest things about resin printing to me.
Hope that helps!
Great video!! Very informative!! You just earned a subscriber.
Very possible that that nozzle model isn't manifold, or watertight. There are polygons missing in the mesh, making the slicer lose it. Open the file in Meshmixer (free) , and click on analysis tool whenever dealing with foreign models. It also has a mesh repair feature.
I'm probably going to buy this to try and make some dnd minis. I'm very new to 3D modeling and 3D printing. Is it really as easy as slicing a 3D modle and printing it? And what other videos would you recommend I watch to help me get started?
Hey @newns9649! Thanks for reaching out!
As with any new hobby there is a bit of a learning curve but overall, yes, it really is as easy as slice and print. You'll probably have to do a little tinkering with certain prints to get them to print properly but my first test print with the Polaris looked great. Just make sure you take your time setting it up and it'll make your life easier down the road. Resin printing is definitely way easier and more detailed than filament printing but they both have pros and cons. I don't think you'll be disappointed.
Definitely check out 3D Printing Nerds channel ruclips.net/user/3DPrintingNerd
As well as Uncle Jessy
ruclips.net/user/UncleJessy
There are tons of great channels out there but those are the two main ones I watch for Resin printing.
Hope that helps and keep us posted how it goes if you decide to get one!
Thank you very much for this! It was very helpful
I'm so glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback. Happy printing!
Great in depth tutorial. Thanks for doing this!
Thanks for the feedback @H.D. Timmons! I hope it was helpful!
Great video !!
Thanks so much!
As of now the manufacturer ran out of mother boards and now use a older mother board that only reads sv..something files. This means u can not use chitubox without reaching into the program files and editing the code
I got to the bit about the spare film. Had to run to the bin lol
Haha! I almost did the same thing! That's why I wanted to make sure I included it in the video. I'm so glad it helped save at least one film from getting thrown out.
very helpful video, hoping more videos of this machine come up on youtube - Question: I cant seem to find out how to export files from Chitubox to a readable print file for this machine, with Voxelprint it works fine though as it always makes the .fdg, what are all the file types that this machine can print? is it only the .fdg files?
Thanks Christian!
I'm really not sure what other file formats the Polaris accepts. I'll have to play around with that.
Did you load the profile for the Polaris into Chitubox before you started? You shouldn't need to "export" the file. Once you have the model set up the way you want it, hit "slice" and it'll show you the slider with the preview. If that looks good you hit the "save" button and it'll ask you where you want to save it. Save it to the usb drive and select ".fdg" as the extension in the dropdown. (You can see this at the 36:00 minute mark of the video).
Hope that helps!
my voxelab polaris has a 1620 x 2560 lcd !!!! I had problems getting it to print. It gave a message that 2560x1440 was the wrong resolution inspite of the specs that claim it is 1440. On the settings on the printer It shows a 1620 x 2560 installed on the machine !! .. GREAT !! So I changed the resolution in setting of Chitbox and it works great ! BUT !!... now what LCD screen do I get to replace it ?.. the Voxelab screen on their site might not be the right one !.. when I take it out hopefully I can tell what it really is and get the same thing. The only 1620's I can find are monochrome so maybe it is really monochrome --GREAT AGAIN !!! Stay tuned !
Thanks so much for the comment Debra! This is really helpful info for myself and other Polaris owners.
I haven't experienced any of these resolution issues myself, but I have gotten several comments from other Polaris owners saying something similar. I would assume that the screen you have in your machine is the 1620x2560 if that's what the machine is telling you and changing that setting in Chitubox fixed the issue. But that's just a guess. You're right though, I went to Voxelab's website to look at their replacement parts and they don't give any details on the actual screen, they just ask you what machine it's for, Polaris or Proxima (www.voxelab3dp.com/product/9). I would have guessed that the larger screen was in the Proxima but maybe they changed something? Hard to say for sure. I'm just glad to hear you're back up and running!
Thanks again for sharing this info! Keep us posted!
just timestamping where I might need to go back to later: 44:29
Good thinkin. Just for reference, I added chapters timestamps to this video in the comments that breaks up the slider at the bottom of the video player screen and shows the different chapter titles.
I have this exact 3d printer and it will print the supports but will not print the object i am attempting to print. I have a subscription to raging heroes and every time i print all i get is the supports do you have any suggestions i could try to help me with this issue. thank you for you time
hey I just got this printer. have been messing with it for a week and nothing i will print. I don’t even get artifacts in the bin of resin after a print attempt. any help? or settings that may help?
They're still $175 so going by your review I got one
Awesome @Object 108. Let me know what you think! Mine is still going strong and I've been really happy with it.
@@ARFTT Ok I got the printer omfg does it make a noise when the build plate goes down with the bed on taking the bed off and it stops but I must say it prints dam well-pleased with it apart from the noise
Thanks for the great tutorial!
You're so very welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment 😁
thanks man this helps a crazy amount !
So glad it was helpful, Nick! Thanks for the feedback.
I like this ur vedio and more usefull to me . But i want printer for gold jewellery purpose so plz help me which company printer is best for that ..??
Your not supposed to touch the FEP sheet with your fingers... and Im also suprised that the spare FEP sheet isnt wrapped up in some protective sleeve
Thanks for the feedback David.
I haven't read anything about not touching the FEP sheet with your fingers but it's generally a moot point because I'm usually wearing gloves. I recorded this video when I first got the machine and I've learned a lot since then. Care to share your source for the info about not touching the FEP film? I didn't see anything to that extent in the manual so I would definitely be curious to learn more.
Thanks again!
This video is really helpful, sadly I'm having issues with my leveling where home stays 2mm above where I tell it to. Do you have any ideas of how to fix this?
Good question @Littlecaz4ever. Though I'm not a pro and I haven't experienced that issue myself, I do have one idea:
Did you make sure to loosen up the two set screws that hold the bed in it's position all the way before you hit the "home" button during the calibration? It's possible that if they weren't loosened up all the way, then the machine didn't go all the way down to its lowest point when it recorded the home position. You might try carefully going through the calibration steps again and see if that helps?
If that doesn't fix it, I would reach out to Voxelab's customer/technical support. I've found them to be very responsive and helpful. I'm sure they'll make it right if it is a defect.
Great video, very useful info Thanks
So glad it was helpful. Thanks for the feedback @celso lopez!
Can I use a laptop with this printer if so what would be the best make and model For this printer
I watched your video on this polaris I now own one ..the problem i am having is I was deleting some files I had on the USB THE POLARIS ALL PROFILE I LOST IT ...can you post a download on it please..I appreciate it thank you for your time!!!
Hey @Allen Peterson! No problem at all. Here you go:
drive.google.com/file/d/11CxiNRhS3jkrL6lLlOLsJVP03QSiLEC-/view?usp=sharing
Hope that helps!
Great in-depth vid!
Thanks so much for the feedback! I hope it was helpful
I'm looking for uv resin Godart 8118, can you help me please?
Got a Proxima recently and after tuning the settings to suit my resin, I got the MAKE: ROOK test sculpt to print beautifully. I then tried to print the nozzle and while the supports came out looking fab, the actual sculpt ended up as a thin layer on my FEP. I'm thinking my support connections weren't strong enough, any chance I could get your .fdg file for the nozzle to see what the supports should look like?
So sorry for the delayed response on this @Kieron Walker. Did you get this figured out? If not, I'll have to dig around and see if I can find that .fdg file for you, or create a new one. Let me know!
This helped me a lot! Just wondering, can you print .cbddlp files? There's the option to save it as that after the model is sliced in Chitubox, and Photon File Validator saves in that format after fixing model errors too.
Oh wow, that's a good question Angela. I'm really not sure on that one. I don't have any experience with that file format. I did see that option in Chitubox but I wasn't sure about what it was used for. Sorry I can't be more help on that one.
What settings use and have you tried water washable resin ? im looking to do tabletop making tanks and figures so looking for make detail and make them strong to thanks
Water washable and standard resin is brittle for small miniatures. I use Sunlu ABS like resin it's flexible, and dropped miniatures don't break easily. Plus it's $24 for 1 liter vs $40+ for other tough resins. I tried water washable first and quickly realized that the brittle nature of this resin would make it not worth the effort to paint the brittle models. Last thing I want to do is spend hours painting a model only to have a arm snap off because it was knocked off the table or something.
Great video man, I am considering get one of this. I do have one question though, is it necessary to pull the rest of resin back to bottle every time I finished printing? Would it possible to just leave it at dark place for next print?
Thanks @fangzhou yin! Great question. I guess in theory you could do that but I think it would cause some problems:
1) some resins seem to separate a bit. You're supposed to shake the bottle before you pour it out. After some long prints with the gray resin I noticed swirls in the resin where it looks like it had started to separate a bit. I'm no resin expert so I don't know if it would actually interfere with a print but it could be an issue.
2) there could be random tiny spots/imperfections/debris at the bottom of the tray where a floating support or something cured to the bottom of the tray instead of coming out with the rest of the print. You wouldn't know it was there until you empty out the tray and see it stuck there and it could definitely interfere with the next print.
3) The lid of the machine isn't completely air tight so you still get some fumes leaking out and the standard resin is pretty smelly. Probably better to empty it out.
Again, I'm no expert so maybe some other users can weigh in on this in more detail, but those are the prominent issues I see.
So I have an issue with builds not sticking to the build ate I've made sure leveling is correct and that I've sliced the software properly but still not sticking I changed my bottom exposure time to hope that would increase the probability of it sticking but all I've e gotten is a disk stuck to the resin reservoir any ideas would be appreciated.
Sorry for the late reply @Ken Pooch. Were you able to figure anything out with this?
I also bought this printer because your review. I was wondering what are your printing settings. I’m using anycubic resin and I have noticed quite a bit of fails. I have worked on the supports based on the fails and sometimes (example of my colossos torso print) the shoulder got a cut, I worked again on the supports and now the arm got a cut. So if you could please share your chitubox settings and if you do have done any testing with anycubic resin. Thank you so much.
Hey @Andre Gotz. Sorry for the delay. Did you get anywhere with your print settings? My settings vary for everything I print. I start with the standard default settings from the Polaris profile and manually adjust them based on what type of resin I'm using and what type of print it is. There's some variation involved so it's hard to just have one "standard" setting that works for everything. It'll get easier the more you do it.
Hope that helps! Let me know if you make progress.
@@ARFTT no need to apologize for late reply, I really appreciate your help and all your videos. I had some bad experience with the printer they send me one used as there was so many scratches on the FEP and on the building plate. So I returned that one and got another one, same issues. So now I have purchased an anycubic photon mono, its arriving tomorrow, I’m using the plant base resin now and using lychee to slice my models. Lets see how it will work when I get the printer. But if you do have any settings I should use or know about please let me know.
Thanks you so much,
Great video. Whats the difference between this one and the Polaris 2K Color LCD Resin 3D Printer
Hey @Marcel Gring! My apologies for the delayed reply. I'm not entirely sure what the difference is. If I had to guess, it sounds like the screen resolution is higher on the one you mentioned. Hope that helps!
Great video . Got me up and going. I really want to make that Johnny five tho.. is there a link to the file?
Thanks for the feedback @Jeremy Justice. Glad it was helpful.
Always great to meet another Short Circuit fan. There are a couple of different models on Thingiverse, but this one's my favorite: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3800333.
Happy printing!
Just curious if you ever had issues getting the resin to cure on the raising platform. So far mine cures to the film on the bottom of the vat I have no idea what to do.
Yes I have actually. There were a few occasions that I had issues. Here are a few things to check:
1) Make sure that you carefully follow the leveling procedure at the beginning. Make sure you loosen the two set screws on the plate sufficiently, use the piece of paper, and then make sure it goes home. Then make sure you hold the plate securely against the bottom so that it doesn't move at all when you tighten the set screws back up. Ensuring that plate is perfectly level and sitting flush with the screen at the bottom is tremendously important.
2) Make sure you load the correct profiles for the resin you're using. Some resin's have different cure settings. You want to make sure that first layer is curing properly to the plate. The first layer's exposure time should be longer than the following layers.
3) Make sure you use adequate supports. I've had a print get halfway finished and then release into the resin. The supports continued to print but the actual print just formed a chunk at the bottom. Turns out I didn't have sufficient supports to hold it to the plate. Once it got too far along, the weight of the print was too great for the few supports to hold it so it broke off and just sat in the resin. I increased the number and thickness of my supports and it printed fine after that.
Hope that helps!
My bf just bought one. And it starts to print and then stops. Like the deer it printed the base and the counter continued printing but nothing was physically printed. Any advice?
Sorry for the late reply @Rebecca Billington. Did your bf have any success with figuring out the issue? If not, I have some follow-up questions that I'd be curious to know, but it definitely sounds like a manufacturing issue of some sort.
Let me know!
Nice video man , I have my polaris bit I don't have any profile on my USB can you help me with that and thanks 👍🏻
Hey @NERY2099- CORP. Thanks for the feedback!
I uploaded the Polaris profile to my drive. See if this link works:
drive.google.com/file/d/11CxiNRhS3jkrL6lLlOLsJVP03QSiLEC-/view?usp=sharing
If it doesn't, I'll try something else.
bro mine keep given me a different resolution than projector 1440! error and wont print
Did you figure out the problem yet @ItsAGrimskull?
I haven't had this issue myself but I have seen similar comments from other users. Check out the comment from @Debra Womack. She changed the resolution setting in Chitubox and it fixed the issue. My guess is that Voxelab put a different resolution screen in some of the Polaris machines and that's what's causing the issue. If you match the resolution in your Slicer to the one that's on your machine, that should (hopefully) fix the error.
Keep us posted!
@@ARFTT yeah my galaxy brain didn't download the driver option that comes in the flash drive when your setting up the model to slice.
I have a question possibly someone could help. I use cura for my 3D printer. I’m using voxeprint for my new resin printer. Could someone help my understand how to use the cut feature. I’m printing Godzilla for my grandson. The tail is too long to fit so I want to cut the tail and print it then glue tail back on. How do you keep the tail you cut so it matches exactly to the rest of the figure?
Hey @Davenohio29! (O-H-...!!)
I would highly recommend you get to know Meshmixer. It's an Autodesk program that lets you do all kinds of things to edit mesh files. It takes a bit to learn but there are tons of tutorials online. It's a super handy program and it's what I use to cut/repair/edit mesh files before printing. Definitely worth the effort to learn.
Here's a great instructional video by the 3D Printing Nerd about how to use Meshmixer to cut files for printing:
ruclips.net/video/KyvBo6tkywc/видео.html
And here's the link to Meshmixer:
www.meshmixer.com/
Give that a shot and I think you'll find it does everything you need it to and more. Hope that helps!
@@ARFTT (I-O) I’ll definitely give that a shot. Thanks
do you have a link to download the nozzle i did not get 1 with my printer
I sure do! I uploaded it to Thingiverse for those of you that didn't get it.
Here it is:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4684907/files
Enjoy!
My prints are not sticking they stay down in the pan. Any ideas?
I still have a lot to learn myself, but I had that happen on a couple of mine. I found a couple of potential causes you might try:
1) the bed wasn't leveled properly. If the bed isn't perfectly leveled it won't press flat against the bottom of the resin tray. If that first layer doesn't stick, then everything after it is just going to continue flashing the cured layer at the bottom of the resin tray.
2) You need more supports. I had a print make it about half way and then fall off because I didn't have enough supports attached to it (or they weren't strong enough). It ended up falling off, but the supports continued to print. You can manually add supports if you need to.
3) It's possible your first layer exposure time isn't long enough? The default times should be sufficient, I would think but again, there's a lot riding on that first layer adhering to the plate properly.
Hope that helps!
Does anyone knows how to save these files for Mac computers for both software programs?
Great question @Skies No Limit. Unfortunately I don't have a Mac or I would be happy to test this for you. Were you able to install the programs on your Mac?
can you post a link to the nozzle? my usb stick only came with the dear STL.
Heck yeah man. I uploaded it to Thingiverse just in case anybody else has the same issue. Here's the link:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4684907/files
@@ARFTT Thank you so much! I appreciate it!
I have a small problem, I tell chitubox to update and it doesn't update no matter how many times I click yes
That's odd @Chris bromley-west. I haven't seen that before. Check out the Chitubox forum and see if you can find an answer there. I'm sure someone else has had the same problem.
Here's the link to the section of the forum that discusses bugs:
forum.chitubox.com/?forum-3.htm
Let us know if you figure out what's causing it.
@@ARFTT NGL wouldnt be surprised if it was somehow windows 8s fault hahaha I'm having a look on the forumn though see if they have a clue
Hah! That's a very plausible conclusion! Let us know
@@ARFTT i couldn't find a solution, but there was a direct download on there for the most revent version, so i just wound up uninstalling it and reinstalling it through their website.
also you weren't kidding when you said the resin had some stank to it the second i took of the lid it hit me ahahaha, mind you there's something nostalgic about that smell, i can't put my finger on it...
either way i've just finished my first print, a tester for the nozzel, game out perfectly, and now.. my first DnD miniature, can't wait to see how it comes out, (i started small, just a brood of dragon eggs for now)
Are you using Latex gloves or Nitrile gloves? Google tells me Latex will allow resin to seep through the glove onto your hand. Double check, I want everyone to be safe :)
I have a pair of industrial Nitrile gloves, but that's very good to know! Good lookin out! Thanks, @Daniel Rea.
Sadly, I can't recommend this printer. Nothing would print right and after a just a week I'm returning it. Maybe try another brand down the line.
Did you try reaching out to Voxelab's customer service or tech support @Qwaurk? I've found them to be really helpful and I know they would have made it right if there was something wrong with your unit. Every piece of tech has bugs on occasion. Next time, reach out to the manufacturer or to me and maybe we can help you work out whatever issues you're experiencing. I have no bias and not much experience, but so far, it really has been a good printer for me. Sorry to hear that wasn't the case for you. Good luck with your next brand.
hey man! so whats the story with the plastic membrane cover for the resin tray?? does it have to be used?? or is it optional? I didn't see one attached underneath my resin tray to begin with so I dont even really know what to do with the thing! lol any suggestions?
i should also ask... where can i get replacement resin tray covers if its something ill regularly need?
So are you saying when you remove the resin tray, it's just a square metal "cookie cutter" with no clear plastic membrane across the bottom? You can see how it's supposed to look in my video. You DEFINITELY need it! If not you're going to have quite a mess on your hands and you'll probably ruin the machine.
If yours came without one installed, I would contact Voxelab's customer support and let them know. Yours should look exactly like mine did in the video. The resin tray should come with one installed and the spare one is just a bonus.
I know you can get a 10 pack of them from Voxelab's website here:
www.voxelab3dp.com/product/8
@@ARFTT thanks man!! I actually do see now that it came with one but I peeled it off... I put it back on the best I could.. When you say installed.. it’s just a matter of sticking the plastic membrane to the bottom of the resin tray, correct? Or is there a more detailed method of doing this??
The one that comes stuck to the inside of the resin tray is just a spare. You don't need it if the tray already has the one it came with from the factory.
And what I mean by "installed" is you'll notice that the spare film has a bunch of holes around the outside edge. Turn the resin tray over and notice there are screws on the bottom that hold the membrane in place. When it comes time to replace the membrane one day, those holes in the spare membrane will line up with the screws.
You'll only need to replace the factory film if it gets damaged or wears out. To do that you'll need to take those screws out, remove the gasket, put the new film in place and re-secure the gasket so the membrane tightens up like a drum. As soon as I get to that point on mine, I'll make a video of the process. In the meantime, the factory-installed one should last you a while if you clean it real good and you keep sharp things away from it.
how is in on d&d minis
It's incredibly detailed! If you go to my review on Amazon, I include a few close up pictures of the detail on a small Johnny 5 figurine I did (the one where I'm holding his hand with tweezers), as well as the "lace" deer figurine that it comes with. It's pretty impressive.
You can find the review and photos here:
www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R5YC8T1I8KMXP?ref=pf_ov_at_pdctrvw_srp
Where do I create 3d models?
There are a lot of places to make them. I personally use Fusion 360 (an Autodesk product) but it has a lot of features and a steep learning curve if you've never done any sort of 3D modeling before. If you're a complete newbie, check out Tinkercad. It's another Autodesk product but it's a lot more beginner-friendly.
Here's a link to Tinkercad's website:
www.tinkercad.com/
@@ARFTT Thanks!
This damn thing keeps giving me an error message "different resolution with projector 1440 " !!!! WTF ?
Oh wow, @G K. That's a new one to me. Have you tried contacting Voxelab?
@@ARFTT I figured it out .. Check the settings on the Polaris you have. What is the resolution of the LCD? Mine is 1620 x 2560 !! Iy is NOT a 1440 LCD... it is 1620 .. probably monochrome !! I HOPE. I set chitubox resolution to 1620 and it works great ! Since I figured this out a few other people told me the same thing.
Do you need to Rinse it or no
Yes, you definitely need to rinse the part and the resin tray off when you're done. If you're using water-soluble resin then you can rinse everything off in the sink but if you're using standard resin, you're going to need to use isopropyl alcohol or something similar to rinse it off. Just make sure you wear gloves!
Hope that helps.
Thank you
Thank you for the help I got mine as a Christmas gift
Also sorry to be negative cos I came here for the review about the machine.. but where are your protective gloves and mask when filling the resin tank?? Resin is nasty and dangerous stuff.
I always wear gloves and I would definitely recommend everyone else do the same. I wasn't wearing them for portions of the video because the ones that came with the machine were cheap and broke while I was filming. I've since purchased a higher quality pair.
No need to apologize, the feedback and concern is appreciated!
3 thing, one this video cost you notting, if some part is not perfect, you can remake its....
a small part or hole...but that a very good draff.
segond is the myth about alcohol and ultrasonic, that falsehood teacher use ultrasonic bath
since 1956 for jeweler use...whit alcohol and other combustible liquid, there a bit more than
2 millions of jeweler that fellow academic formation before my retirement,... not once
using alcohol whit ultrasonic,,, even big industrial one, much more powerful than your desk
bath... and alcohol was never a problem, not one jeweler report a problem on any associations
around the world report this... is a 3d printing myth...
no Mather how many people repeat this joke,,,sorry but that the true fact.
and the last a big thank for the video....its much appreciate.
Thanks for the detailed feedback @Jean Morin! I've seen first hand demonstrations in chemistry class with aerosolized alcohol, so I know it's possible, even if it may be unlikely. I'm sure there are variables that need to align just right to cause a problem, but if there's even the slightest chance it could cause a fire, why take a chance if there are other non-combustible options out there?
Thanks for the comment! I'm so glad the video was helpful.
You need nitrile gloves,
I have them and I definitely use them (and I recommend every one else do as well). The pair of gloves that came with the printer was really cheap and broke while I was filming the video, but you're right: always wear gloves.
Voxelabs are scum. I bough the Polaris, it is utter crap. loads of issues, now discovered that the LCD has pixels 'brunt in', and they wont replace it "The Lcd screen is a wearing part with a one-month warranty, so you need to buy a new one yourself" UTTERLY DISGUSTING. Also glitches in firmware, about 1cm up the build the layers get shifted, and ruins prints, they won't give you support and just waste your time. AVOID VOXELABS