Thanks for making this video, i have 4 or 5 power torque Tycos handed down from my dad, ive been dying to get them working again and i think your video will help me repair them
I call that clockwork gearing and that tiny gear needs a little teach of loctite when you put it back on.. and if you look at the back of the big gear I like that pattern the old grease leaves on it......
Good video. I enjoy tinkering with old trains as well. I like to clean mine in jewelry cleaner. I will even put the solution in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and let if run a bit. I also got some rubber feeling discs for my Dremel, the do great for cleaning/polishing armatures, and much less mess than with polishing compound. Got mine in a kit from Harbor Freight.
A pencil eraser works great for polishing the commutator. Have you found a good replacement for the brushes and or brush springs? The brushes are usually pretty good, just dirty, but the springs can get cooked and other be deformed or broken. I haven't found a good replacement source.
I torched the brush cover cause I missed this great tutorial. On the back side is the letter A. Where can I get a replacement? Thank you for a fine lesson in this vid. I’m hooked. Ben
I wonder why Dan's BN sharknose has blombergs (And for the lights, try to pry out the light with a flathead screwdriver. I do it all the time when fixing a PT, and I usually never break the light.)
Hi Dan I have a question. I have a rock island 4301 alco and I run it sometimes. I got it at an antique store for my birthday so I had it for about half a year. Then one day I set it on the track to run on my layout and smoke started to come from the motor and I tried moving it around but it only went half an inch by itself so I turned of the power. I cracked open the motor and to my surprise the whole thing was covered in melted led from the led rollers. But to note I also did service it when I got it. But Dan do you know why that happened why the rollers melted. I would love to hear a response
Hi Dan it's been awhile since you responded and I just want to known if theirs any way I can send you pictures of the motor and the melted brushes sorry. I was thinking of the word brushes but used the word rollers I was thinking of lionel postwar locomotives
Ok it will be about 2 weeks till I send you them I have it at my step dad's farm that's were I have most of my layout I put it on my work bench I'm at my dad's not my step dad's I go to my step dad's farm a lot but every other week I see my dad not my step dad
You need to tin brush plates also before soldering wire to them much better connection, also a much thinner blade screwdriver that will flex without breaking & a simple round toothpick for picking up the delicate parts
This will be hard for me to explain but when you are removing the weight you should look at them tabs there is like a little lip keeping the shell from coming off... If you take the point of a nighf carefully shave that little lip off it will come right out you can use a magnifying glass to see I mean...
I use ( CLR ) On my Wheels and connection's clean deep , Last L O N G E R ! ! !, Little go's long way's , Don't get Crazy with it !! , And I use Lucas Gun Oil with the needle applicator ,The Lucas Gun Oil is moisture proof and heat resistant it's great to use on all your training wheels, And Motor part's ! , Especially brass!! . 😉 And I use white grease for my gering in my axles it's highly conductive for Electrical pick up's , it won't dry out like most grease and oil will !, Contains ( 0% ) Water ! , Most lubricants do!!, People don't realize that ( WD-40 ! ) Mostly Water and can cause Rust !, That is why they tell you not to use WD-40 on a gun, it can cause your gun to jam up,
You do a great job describing and instructing how to work on tyco trains. Keep up the great work.
great idea how to reassemble the motor never seen that way before great job keep those videos coming
That’s a really good way of getting the brushes and springs back on the block. Much easier than I’ve been doing! Nice tips as always!
That is certainly an elaborate mechanism for an inexpensive loco. Doing one later today. Thanks
Hey, man. Really enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.
I use modeling sanding sticks to clean up the brass wheels. Great video Dan! Thanks very much!
Where can order more brushes for my Tyco locomotive. Thank you so much. Rick
Thanks for making this video, i have 4 or 5 power torque Tycos handed down from my dad, ive been dying to get them working again and i think your video will help me repair them
One Tyco power torque you missed The tender drive steam engines like the Chattanooga Thanks
That's 1 thing I like about tyco They're not the hardest thing to take apart or put back together
Awesome video very informative thank you
I call that clockwork gearing and that tiny gear needs a little teach of loctite when you put it back on.. and if you look at the back of the big gear I like that pattern the old grease leaves on it......
Good video. I enjoy tinkering with old trains as well. I like to clean mine in jewelry cleaner. I will even put the solution in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and let if run a bit. I also got some rubber feeling discs for my Dremel, the do great for cleaning/polishing armatures, and much less mess than with polishing compound. Got mine in a kit from Harbor Freight.
Helpful video, Thanks. Do you have a good suggestion for replacement brushes?
This helped a lot! Trying to do a custom MTA Metro North F-UNIT and couldn’t figure the best way to pop that weight off. Thanks.
Great vid DD learned a lot thanks
Great video. Thanks.
Have you tried guitar picks for prying?
No, but I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
What did you use to replace the traction tires? Did you say "gum bands"? What are gum bands and do you use a specific brand?
Orthodontic elastic bands. Amazon. eBay. Department Stores. And, Pharmacies.
If i was rebuilding that tyco locomotive ill just gut out that drive and replace it with a Hobbytown power drive.
A pencil eraser works great for polishing the commutator.
Have you found a good replacement for the brushes and or brush springs? The brushes are usually pretty good, just dirty, but the springs can get cooked and other be deformed or broken. I haven't found a good replacement source.
I torched the brush cover cause I missed this great tutorial. On the back side is the letter A. Where can I get a replacement? Thank you for a fine lesson in this vid. I’m hooked. Ben
Is there any fix if you break the post on the biggest gear, which I just did as you were saying 1 in a 1000 lol. Thanks
I wonder why Dan's BN sharknose has blombergs (And for the lights, try to pry out the light with a flathead screwdriver. I do it all the time when fixing a PT, and I usually never break the light.)
Hi Dan I have a question. I have a rock island 4301 alco and I run it sometimes. I got it at an antique store for my birthday so I had it for about half a year. Then one day I set it on the track to run on my layout and smoke started to come from the motor and I tried moving it around but it only went half an inch by itself so I turned of the power. I cracked open the motor and to my surprise the whole thing was covered in melted led from the led rollers. But to note I also did service it when I got it. But Dan do you know why that happened why the rollers melted. I would love to hear a response
I’m not exactly sure what your referring to as “rollers” could you please clarify ?
Sorry I just remembered the brushes melted
Hi Dan it's been awhile since you responded and I just want to known if theirs any way I can send you pictures of the motor and the melted brushes sorry. I was thinking of the word brushes but used the word rollers I was thinking of lionel postwar locomotives
@@bnsfwoodvalleysubdivision9157 sure. The best way to contact me would be through email at danielhauck67vlogs@gmail.com
Ok it will be about 2 weeks till I send you them I have it at my step dad's farm that's were I have most of my layout I put it on my work bench I'm at my dad's not my step dad's I go to my step dad's farm a lot but every other week I see my dad not my step dad
You need to tin brush plates also before soldering wire to them much better connection, also a much thinner blade screwdriver that will flex without breaking & a simple round toothpick for picking up the delicate parts
Where fixingit episode (idk) we need a new one also epic locomotrave
Where fixingit episode (idk) we need a new one and epic locomotrave
Where fixingit episode (idk) we need a
new one also epic locomotrave
Thanks for loctite tip 😉
18:26 use a torch lighter to heat that copper up, will make soldering it easier!
How confusing can it get?
Step one: drill out motor block for CD drive
Thanks for watching
Step two: **P E R I S H**
This will be hard for me to explain but when you are removing the weight you should look at them tabs there is like a little lip keeping the shell from coming off... If you take the point of a nighf carefully shave that little lip off it will come right out you can use a magnifying glass to see I mean...
And you can use ( CLR ) on your train track is well ! , I have been for years and years!,
I use ( CLR ) On my Wheels and connection's clean deep , Last L O N G E R ! ! !, Little go's long way's , Don't get Crazy with it !! , And I use Lucas Gun Oil with the needle applicator ,The Lucas Gun Oil is moisture proof and heat resistant it's great to use on all your training wheels, And Motor part's ! , Especially brass!! . 😉
And I use white grease for my gering in my axles it's highly conductive for Electrical pick up's , it won't dry out like most grease and oil will !, Contains ( 0% ) Water ! , Most lubricants do!!, People don't realize that ( WD-40 ! ) Mostly Water and can cause Rust !, That is why they tell you not to use WD-40 on a gun, it can cause your gun to jam up,
Where is the windows 95 intro music ?
Great video however you should never use Vaseline. Vaseline is petroleum-based, and petroleum-based products can eat the plastic