Well, that didn’t go as planned. My 310D doesn’t have grease fittings on the end of the rod, so after 25+ years my pin is seized up pretty good into the end of the rod. I tried heat, I beat on the pin for an hour and tried my air hammer. Finally a welded a nut on the end of the pin, and with a breaker bar, and 5 foot of pipe I still couldn’t shake her loose. Needless to say my 1” gun couldn’t spin the pin in the rod either. I then grabbed my 10 pound sledge, and beat on the 1-3/8” nut i welded on to the pin until it looked like an old school rivet. Im close to cutting the pin on both sides of the rod, but Im going to try attacking it from the other side of the cylinder. Im hoping I can flip the cylinder over and pull it apart still attached to the bottom of the stabilizer leg. We’ll see, I’ll keep everyone posted.
I just did my JD610B today very close to yours except in the start drive the end into the cylinder about a inch, THEN the clip comes out easily thanks for your video, gave me the fortitude to try
Well done! I appreciate your narration and showing the detailed steps. My main bucket cylinder on my excavator is leaking and I think just needs a basic rebuild like this. I've never done before but trying to learn it up to see if I can take it on. Thanks again!
Hey, thanks a million. Mine is just a 310 C, but I imagine it is much the same all the way through. That is my next project. I just finished beefing up the frame as it had stress cracks. That was a job.
Thank you! That was a great video. Very informative. Clever trick using the PVC pipe as an organizer. I think I'll hire a professional to do mine, but I now have a great understanding of what is necessary. Maybe when I get some more tools and confidence, I can give it a shot. Thanks again.
I agree about the manual labor thing. That's why my new recliner has push button power recline. My Case backhoe has a leaking boom cylinder (the biggest cylinder on it), I don't know whether to tackle It myself or take it to a cylinder guy.
Top Video, very helpful! I have had a horrible time trying to fit the new gland seal into the internal groove, beginning to wonder if I have been given the correct seal, it is a blue seal (the old one is the normal black material). I have plastered it in grease, get in place 90%
Deere has an online parts catalog...I looked up the John Deere numbers as best I could and then bought aftermarket parts where ever they were the least expensive. I spent as lot of time measuring and comparing as it is a little hit and miss and I don't know if you can ever be absolutely sure you have the correct parts until you actually attempt the rebuild. There are 2 kits required to rebuild a cylinder, a rod kit and a cylinder kit.
This is a great video. I would like permission to use it in my Hydraulics class. One small error in tear down. The Orange O-ring behind the nut is installed in the the snap ring grove to aid in piston removal. Just be sure to remove it before assembly. first rate field repair.
wyowrenchthanks ...sure help yourself....thanks for the input....also , if you use a hammer and pin to move the gland into the cylinder the snap ring comes out a lot easier. Also, the last cylinder I rebuilt, I was unable to turn the gland retaining nut off the end of the shaft and ended up heating the nut and then by using an impact socket and a 4 foot pipe wrench on the socket and hammering the pipe wrench with a 5 pound sledge I was able to break the nut loose. The video shows a large bolt holding the gland on but in the last cylinder I did (the bucket cylinder) it was held on with a large nut. Thanks again
Can't get the freakin' pin out. 310A, identical cylinder & pins. Bolt came out easy but pin is seized. Lubed, beat it to death. Ground pin edge, torched foot, iced pin. Won't budge. Could be bent. Ideas? Upper pin won't even come out. Drill lower pin?
When When I rebuilt the starboard side I could not get the pin out either. Ended up cutting it with a cutoff wheel on on either side and then made a replacement pin with a grease zerk.
+hairylarry I'm am not sure if I understand you. If you are talking about the internal snap ring (which is actually round and holds the gland from coming out of the cylinder) get a piece of 1/4" round stock (preferrably something soft like aluminum or brass) and drive the gland into the cylinder a little bit which will make it easier to remove the snap ring. (I am assuming that you have already removed the round threaded nut.)
+bigsetter1 Actually I was referring to the threaded spanner nut. It was just spinning the gland, but I used an air hammer which did the trick. Now, I am stuck on the snap ring just as you have described. However, I am having issues getting something under one of the snap ring edges to wedge it out. I'll try knocking the gland in a bit as you suggest, but my biggest problem is finding the right tool to actually wedge out the snapring out of the groove. There is not even a 1/2" gap between the snapring ends to get a screwdriver or some other tool in. When I get a small flathead in there and the snapring actually starts to wedge up, then it spins inside the groove and I loose my leverage. I'll fight it again tomorrow. Thanks for the advice!
If you don't know what your doing be best to let someone who does, there are measurements that need to be taken to make sure parts are not damaged beyond repair Could also be something very simple like a stuck relief valve
+danietkissenle You can try an impact socket on the bolt....a pipe wrench on the socket....and maybe a little hammer activity on the pipe wrench ....maybe a little heat might help also.
Авто/Мото
Thanks, you took my fear of tackling this same job on my 310 away. I guess there is nothing left to do but to do it.
Well, that didn’t go as planned. My 310D doesn’t have grease fittings on the end of the rod, so after 25+ years my pin is seized up pretty good into the end of the rod. I tried heat, I beat on the pin for an hour and tried my air hammer. Finally a welded a nut on the end of the pin, and with a breaker bar, and 5 foot of pipe I still couldn’t shake her loose. Needless to say my 1” gun couldn’t spin the pin in the rod either. I then grabbed my 10 pound sledge, and beat on the 1-3/8” nut i welded on to the pin until it looked like an old school rivet. Im close to cutting the pin on both sides of the rod, but Im going to try attacking it from the other side of the cylinder. Im hoping I can flip the cylinder over and pull it apart still attached to the bottom of the stabilizer leg. We’ll see, I’ll keep everyone posted.
I just did my JD610B today very close to yours except in the start drive the end into the cylinder about a inch, THEN the clip comes out easily thanks for your video, gave me the fortitude to try
Well done! I appreciate your narration and showing the detailed steps. My main bucket cylinder on my excavator is leaking and I think just needs a basic rebuild like this. I've never done before but trying to learn it up to see if I can take it on. Thanks again!
Loved the disclaimer at the beginning and very informative video. Well done sir.
Thank you, your video will prove invaluable when I rebuild the stabilizer on my JD 310 C!
I liked the PVC pipe trick with keeping the seals in the right direction and order.
Hey, thanks a million. Mine is just a 310 C, but I imagine it is much the same all the way through. That is my next project. I just finished beefing up the frame as it had stress cracks. That was a job.
Thank you for sharing. I have a stabilizer cylinder to fix on my Case 580 and this lets me know what to expect. Nice job.!
Thank you! That was a great video. Very informative. Clever trick using the PVC pipe as an organizer. I think I'll hire a professional to do mine, but I now have a great understanding of what is necessary. Maybe when I get some more tools and confidence, I can give it a shot. Thanks again.
Excellent thanks I now feel confident enough to tackle my John Deere 710C!
Thanks for posting this video. I learned so much from it. I really enjoyed it.
nicely done with good tips for someone about to take on such a task.
Really enjoyed the intro! Well said.
Thank you, for sharing your knowledge.
Cool! Mama out there helping Pops, git'n er done!!!!!! Loved ur vid!
Great job on the video! Thank you!
I agree about the manual labor thing. That's why my new recliner has push button power recline. My Case backhoe has a leaking boom cylinder (the biggest cylinder on it), I don't know whether to tackle It myself or take it to a cylinder guy.
A 1983 John Deere 510 B backhoe hydraulic pump rebuild would be really be awesome for a video
Thank you!! It helped me out
Top Video, very helpful! I have had a horrible time trying to fit the new gland seal into the internal groove, beginning to wonder if I have been given the correct seal, it is a blue seal (the old one is the normal black material). I have plastered it in grease, get in place 90%
Thanks for posting this video
Wow you made that look like a walk in the park :-))
Hope it behaved itself, thank you for the smashing video :-))
awesome video learned something new good job
Great video and instructions😊
Great info. Thank you.
thanks for the video it answered my question. I have a 310 C
good vid ,,similar to suspension rebuild in the 80ies
Soooooooo much can go wrong doing this the first time yourself, even if you're a handy fella. Very intimidating job.
the bit about manual labor at the beginning was funny
It cracked me up too, it was a well written dig at today's cotton wool world.
Enjoyed it very much
great video
good video help me a lot thank you
Veey.good.job.sr..magnifico.trabajo
Nice vid. Thank you
Good work :)
thank you very much
Deere has an online parts catalog...I looked up the John Deere numbers as best I could and then bought aftermarket parts where ever they were the least expensive. I spent as lot of time measuring and comparing as it is a little hit and miss and I don't know if you can ever be absolutely sure you have the correct parts until you actually attempt the rebuild. There are 2 kits required to rebuild a cylinder, a rod kit and a cylinder kit.
This is a great video. I would like permission to use it in my Hydraulics class. One small error in tear down. The Orange O-ring behind the nut is installed in the the snap ring grove to aid in piston removal. Just be sure to remove it before assembly. first rate field repair.
wyowrenchthanks ...sure help yourself....thanks for the input....also , if you use a hammer and pin to move the gland into the cylinder the snap ring comes out a lot easier. Also, the last cylinder I rebuilt, I was unable to turn the gland retaining nut off the end of the shaft and ended up heating the nut and then by using an impact socket and a 4 foot pipe wrench on the socket and hammering the pipe wrench with a 5 pound sledge I was able to break the nut loose. The video shows a large bolt holding the gland on but in the last cylinder I did (the bucket cylinder) it was held on with a large nut. Thanks again
are you supposed to relieve pressure first ? or is that more for like pump, valve, line etc repairs?
Hello, great video ! Where did you say you got your parts?Thanks, Bob
Loved it
VERY GOOD VIDEO/JOB
Good job buddy, and kudos to the wife
Good video! trying to find the seal kit I need for the stabilizer cylinders on a 96' 310D.
On a 310g on the cylinder besides the key pain on the outside is there another key on the inside
where did you get the parts??
Hi, my question is what tool you use to pull the lock ring?
Id like to know is where did you get that T setup for the socket so you can use a bar on both sides to break the bolt loose
Hello I have a JD 450B with a backhoe with leaky cylinders where did you say to find replacement parts?
Hi I just picked up a 510c backhoe, can you tell me where can I check and fill the hydraulic oil? Thank You
Where did you get the seal kits
Can't get the freakin' pin out. 310A, identical cylinder & pins. Bolt came out easy but pin is seized. Lubed, beat it to death. Ground pin edge, torched foot, iced pin. Won't budge. Could be bent. Ideas? Upper pin won't even come out. Drill lower pin?
When
When I rebuilt the starboard side I could not get the pin out either. Ended up cutting it with a cutoff wheel on on either side and then made a replacement pin with a grease zerk.
Does the system "air" it self from air in the hydralic system ?
+lime311 I am no expert but it appears that ...yes it is self purging.
Any idea how to get the spanner off if it just keep spinning with the internal piece?
+hairylarry I'm am not sure if I understand you.
If you are talking about the internal snap ring (which is actually round and holds the gland from coming out of the cylinder) get a piece of 1/4" round stock (preferrably something soft like aluminum or brass) and drive the gland into the cylinder a little bit which will make it easier to remove the snap ring. (I am assuming that you have already removed the round threaded nut.)
+bigsetter1
Actually I was referring to the threaded spanner nut. It was just spinning the gland, but I used an air hammer which did the trick. Now, I am stuck on the snap ring just as you have described. However, I am having issues getting something under one of the snap ring edges to wedge it out. I'll try knocking the gland in a bit as you suggest, but my biggest problem is finding the right tool to actually wedge out the snapring out of the groove. There is not even a 1/2" gap between the snapring ends to get a screwdriver or some other tool in. When I get a small flathead in there and the snapring actually starts to wedge up, then it spins inside the groove and I loose my leverage. I'll fight it again tomorrow. Thanks for the advice!
Have you stopped doing videos?
Nice video' I should have watched this video first before tearing up the cylinder now I don't know what directions the seals go.
need to know if any one can tell me how to rebuild a hydraulic pump for a 1983 john deer backhoe
If you don't know what your doing be best to let someone who does, there are measurements that need to be taken to make sure parts are not damaged beyond repair
Could also be something very simple like a stuck relief valve
use camera - take close ups of what u r working on
don't use oil ----only hydraulic fluid
Poor guy, needs a workbench!
i tried to do this last week but when i was trying to loosen that bolt a 6foot cheater and almost snapped my breaker bar
+danietkissenle
You can try an impact socket on the bolt....a pipe wrench on the socket....and maybe a little hammer activity on the pipe wrench ....maybe a little heat might help also.
can you help me/
You're working too hard!!
Good video but why all that crap at the beginning? You could've just said this requires common sense so heads up..