Helpful tip. You need to install the 35mm film onto the solid end of the adapter first. Then flip the hinged end down onto the film. It will fit right into place . That way you will not have to bend the plastic adapter and maybe break it.
Brilliant :-) There's a hack so you don't waste film. It involves celotaping some cut down 120 backing paper to the leader of the 35mm film and then rolling it back into the canister...... then loading the film as usual.
How long of a piece ? I want to try this with my Mamiyaflex C2 and it cranks a lot of paper to the take-up roll before the first frame of film. I will add (tape) some old film leader to the end but I don't know how long of a piece is needed. I will probably need to wind some back into the canister too so that the first picture will start on the unexposed film (maybe a little exposed, I like those first partial frames sometimes). Counting the holes makes it easy to share the info (metric vs imperial). Would love to see the film after development and before cutting to measure (count the holes) how much is wasted. Any home developers try this themselves? Great Video and Pictures!
@@michaeldimmitt2188 I'm not too sure now.....It's been a while. But I suppose when you develop your next 120 film, don't remove the tape from the backing paper but remove the film from the tape.... That way you have something to measure.
If I understand correctly, there’s tiny indicators along the vertical lines of frame lines for 120mm showing the frame lines for panorama format in the view finder. It’s very subtle so it’s easy to miss.
I remember making an adapter like that for the Bronica GS1, you can avoid wasting film by adding some paper taped to the film, I don’t remember the exact size but I wasted an old 120 film to mesure the length of the backing paper, and then reported it. Great images by the way did you use Ektar 100 film ?
Thanks, I actually used Ultramax 400 film. And I don’t really shoot panos in my mamiya a lot so tapping the paper to the film for 1-2 shots isn’t really worth it to me at the moment.
She's so unfamiliar with the adapter that she nearly broke the cartridge holder by trying to force the cartridge into the holder when putting it in the wrong way (note the video skip). Note that there is no flattening support for the film in the exposure gate, so film which tends to curl will be out of focus along the edges. This Mamiya 7 allows you to rewind the 35mm back into the cartridge; no others do this, however you can usually install a take-up (empty) 35mm cartridge with generic adapters which allow you to unload without a dark bag. When you consider all of the extra horsing around using these adapters, it's usually going to leave you shooting the scene on 120 film and just masking down the top and bottom of the image to get the same result. This is really just a novelty, and after one use, you'll probably put the adapter pieces back in the box and never use it again. (That was my experience. ) The other Mamiya difference is that this 35mm kit costs a lot more than the $50 the generic adapters cost.
It’s an alternative to spending 10k on an xpan by using a camera I already own. You also can’t shoot with the sprocket holes on the xpan so your able to get creative with it.
xPan actually gives you a 35mm two frame negative, this looks to be a frame and a half maybe..could be wrong though. Boy if used xpan’s are going for 10k good thing i bought mine back in 2001.
Helpful tip. You need to install the 35mm film onto the solid end of the adapter first. Then flip the hinged end down onto the film. It will fit right into place . That way you will not have to bend the plastic adapter and maybe break it.
Thank you for posting what you shot.
Great compositions and colors!
Thanks!
Brilliant :-) There's a hack so you don't waste film. It involves celotaping some cut down 120 backing paper to the leader of the 35mm film and then rolling it back into the canister...... then loading the film as usual.
How long of a piece ? I want to try this with my Mamiyaflex C2 and it cranks a lot of paper to the take-up roll before the first frame of film. I will add (tape) some old film leader to the end but I don't know how long of a piece is needed. I will probably need to wind some back into the canister too so that the first picture will start on the unexposed film (maybe a little exposed, I like those first partial frames sometimes). Counting the holes makes it easy to share the info (metric vs imperial).
Would love to see the film after development and before cutting to measure (count the holes) how much is wasted. Any home developers try this themselves?
Great Video and Pictures!
@@michaeldimmitt2188 I'm not too sure now.....It's been a while. But I suppose when you develop your next 120 film, don't remove the tape from the backing paper but remove the film from the tape.... That way you have something to measure.
If I understand correctly, there’s tiny indicators along the vertical lines of frame lines for 120mm showing the frame lines for panorama format in the view finder. It’s very subtle so it’s easy to miss.
Yeah they are there and I did missed them on the first roll I shot, but having them there helps so much
wow Im going to do this right now!
Cool video, glad I saw it before I bought an xpan.
I remember making an adapter like that for the Bronica GS1, you can avoid wasting film by adding some paper taped to the film, I don’t remember the exact size but I wasted an old 120 film to mesure the length of the backing paper, and then reported it.
Great images by the way did you use Ektar 100 film ?
Thanks, I actually used Ultramax 400 film. And I don’t really shoot panos in my mamiya a lot so tapping the paper to the film for 1-2 shots isn’t really worth it to me at the moment.
Really digging the colors and panoramic look
Thanks
Para las panorámicas giras la camara? No entiendo cómo quedan horizontales
Great explanation, thanks.
Great video 🎉
Does this work for any 120 camera?
What a great video - those shots turned out so nicely. How did you scan the negs?
I have a negative supply set up that is customizable so I can scan all types of 35mm sizes so that’s how I’m able to do panos
Which Kodak 400 filmstock did you use? Those reds are crazy.
It’s just Ultra Max 400
....warum sind alle Farben verwaschen???🤔
I usually stick the leader piece of backing paper to the start of the 135 film, that way I don’t waste any film.
Yeah that’s smart but, you can’t really do it quickly which is the annoying part
@@justinewillard8481 well sort of, as I use a Mamiya RZ67 and have at least two film backs ready, so I can just switch between them.
That’s cool. Can this be done with a Rolleiflex?
Yeah it can be done with any medium format camera. All you need is the 3D printed adapter to attach to a roll of 35mm to fit into the camera
put the base in first, then flip the top on.
around how many frames do you get with this? thanks.
Depending on how much you feed it when starting the roll you can get anywhere from 13-16 frames
@@justinewillard8481 Thanks!
She's so unfamiliar with the adapter that she nearly broke the cartridge holder by trying to force the cartridge into the holder when putting it in the wrong way (note the video skip). Note that there is no flattening support for the film in the exposure gate, so film which tends to curl will be out of focus along the edges. This Mamiya 7 allows you to rewind the 35mm back into the cartridge; no others do this, however you can usually install a take-up (empty) 35mm cartridge with generic adapters which allow you to unload without a dark bag. When you consider all of the extra horsing around using these adapters, it's usually going to leave you shooting the scene on 120 film and just masking down the top and bottom of the image to get the same result. This is really just a novelty, and after one use, you'll probably put the adapter pieces back in the box and never use it again. (That was my experience. ) The other Mamiya difference is that this 35mm kit costs a lot more than the $50 the generic adapters cost.
Why would you want to do this, seems silly to me. Or, you can use a Hasselblad xPan and solve this problem logically.
It’s an alternative to spending 10k on an xpan by using a camera I already own. You also can’t shoot with the sprocket holes on the xpan so your able to get creative with it.
Really? Have you seen the price of these cameras these days?
xPan actually gives you a 35mm two frame negative, this looks to be a frame and a half maybe..could be wrong though. Boy if used xpan’s are going for 10k good thing i bought mine back in 2001.
@@tarteauxframboisesYes, pretty ridiculous. I still own/use my Nikon F3 and xPan bought back in the day.