Maho'ing the €10000 camera stand - Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Making a Foba syle studio camera stand. Machining the parts with the Do-All band saw, MAHO MH4000E CNC mill and CNC conversion Mini lathe. Tool grinding on the Clarkson.
Crashed the MAHO!
Cast some lead to a counterweight.
Inspired by:
• 3d Printing a $10,000 ...
and
• Video
Can I make a suggestion? To avoid the crash like at the end of the video and any in the future. Although I have never run that type of machine. I will bet there is a display that says distance to go. What that display tells you is the distance the machine intends to travel to the next move in the program. So what I always do when running a tool for the first time in a program is this. After the tool change I slow the rapid down (My machines move a 1600 Ipm at full rapid. Way to fast to catch anything). Than as you approach the part push feed hold when you get close (say about a inch). Now gather your wits about you and look at the distance to go display. If is says more than that distance between the tool and the part stop everything and find the problem. Either your offsets (Tool of fixture) are incorrect or your program has a error. I can't tell you how many times this has saved me. In fact I don't even start the spindle until I get one inch before the top of the part. I also don't turn the coolant on until after starting the spindle (Watch my videos on the horizontal mill. You will see this). This does two things If you put the control into single block as the tool approaches the part than push feed hold as explained before a little sooner. Than look at the distance to go. If it will make the move and not hit anything. Push the start and let it finish the move. Because you haven't started the spindle or coolant. With everything stopped in single block you can open the doors and look without getting wet with flying coolant and you don't have to stop the spindle either. Than you could take something that's one inch tall and hold it up next to the tool and compare it to the part. With this you could even detect smallish errors in the tool length offset. This take more time to describe than to do but believe me when I tell you. It will save you time, material and tooling.
Thank you very much. That advice is gold! That is the sort of procedure which we need an experienced guy like you to tell, as I would never have come up with that.
I can switch to DTG just be touching the DRO section of the screen, but have never used it. Also have feed override. I have the rapids at only 3m/min, but that is still too fast for this.
I think I understand what I did wrong.
My PP put an M2 at the end of block ( I am still working on getting the PP optimised for LinuxCNC), so the machine shut down after the pocketing with T02 - the 8mm tw flute. That was fine, as I also realised that I'd forgotten to program the side machining of the ends of stock.
In CAM I made a new setup (same origin) and generated the tool path for the side milling. Cut paste that code into my program, replacing the pocketing which was already done. I dont think I added the T02 M6 G43 back in, as T02 was still in the spindle.
I think the thing I missed was the end of the pocketing program had already reset the control to T00
When I reloaded the program, the CAM had added a G55 for the new set up, so I had to manual edit that out. I jogged down with T02 in the spindle, but probably T00 in the control, had to touch off new (which should have warned me). Never checked the controls loaded tool number.
Ran the program. T02 worked fine, as I'd touched off, since there was no T02 M6 G43 in the code, but when I changed to the T03 spot drill, the offset went T00->T03 instead of T02->T03. Crunch.
@@RotarySMP Also I didn’t mention this in the first comment. But there should also a command screen. This screen should show all the active current commands in the control. It will look like a list of cod’s that the control is using right now. It will show what tool and fixture offsets are active also what M and G cod’s are active. If you run into a problem when you push feed hold and the distance to go is to far. Look at the current command screen. See if you have the proper tool offset for the tool and G43 is active. The fixture offset and so on. Hope that helps.
Good explanation I was looking for this comment. I'd also say when your running first offs and you have it set up in single block, reduced rapid and are looking at your distance to go. keep one thumb covering feed hold button and the other over the cycle button. You can easily just tap between them and can creep up on your part slowly like that.
@@SirFlibbertyJibbit Did you see Peters new video on this.
ruclips.net/video/WMsO24IqRKU/видео.html
Excellent!
Just want to add another tidbit that i use during this process: assuming that you are doing manual tool touchoffs, i always make my approach move significantly higher than what i'm using to touch off. that way, if i forget, or reverse, the change to the offset to account for my touch off apparatus, it is impossible for that error alone to cause a crash. As an example, i usually a 1-2-3" block, and my last approach move will stop at 2". an inch in difference is very easy to see.
Another technique i will use, is that i will make my initial approach stop at 5". that way, i can approach in single block mode, hit the 5" stop, then have space to put a 6" scale against the tool and see exactly where my tool tip is, in relation to 5" above the part. with a decent scale, you can even catch .010" errors.
ouch that ending hurt! an totally stealing your table mounted camera idea though.
I just finished watching your last video, the rabbit joke was so funny :)
Yeah, it sucked!
You really need the camera on the knee of these console type mills, otherwise peck drilling looks terrible.
Thanks for the call out Tony :)
Oh that ending was tough. But the previous 22 minutes had some nice machining!
Yeah. I also found it pretty unsatisfying :/
That's how most of my CNC attempts begin
@@cda32 I happens to me moer often than it should.
damn, that hurts!!!
that being said, loved the machining especially the radius tool-making part
Thanks for the feedback.
My God, seeing projects like this come together really does blow my mind. Going from blank materials to something that looks great and functions is so damn cool!
Thanks. It is pretty nice to use. Way better than the tripod.
Just started watching some "back issues" for the first time. It's going to be one hell of a camera stand when done. But that crash, eeewwwwhhhhh!!! I felt for you, I can tell you.
Hi Bill, Yeah, that sucked. That camera stand has been a real game changer. I use it constantly, and it is so muhc faster than tripods.
Funnily enough I got this suggested after watching "This old Tony"'s MAHO -> CNC conversion video. Nice stand you got planned. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, and thanks for watching.
What a great episode, until the very sad end. I even laughed with you when you drilled into the side of the broken tap. That’s something I would do. But that ending was brutal to watch. Please let us know what the g-code investigation uncovers. DIY CNC is definitely an thrilling venture.
Thanks for the feedback. I need to go and investigate, but for now just turned off the machine and closed the door.
👍👍😜👍👍. I completely understand. I might have slammed that door closed. 😃 We are all here pulling for you. It will be ok. Years from now you’ll laugh every time you see that beauty mark embedded in the table as it reminds you of how far you’ve come.
@@joell439 Grimace is more like it :)
holy smokes the maho is strong. it can double up as a hydraulic press if you need it. looking forwards to part 3 !
I think it reach the point it thought was the destination. If it hd continued anoter inch down, it would have been steel tool punching cast iron table. I am pretty sure something really nasty would have happened.
I hope the ordered aluminium arrives soon.
With all due respect sir, You inspire those of us who have limited capabilities to continue to realize that we are ALL capable of improvement. You could have easily edited the ending out and deprived us of the experience. I have operated and programmed cnc lathes and mills for 44 years. I was once told that the only person that can't learn is the one who thinks he knows it all. Thank you for your valuable education. I truly mean that.
Thank you for the very encouraging feedback. I will try to learn the lessons from this and hopefully implement methods to prevent a repetition.
Oh man. The sheer disgust at the Maho you were experiencing at the very end... I felt it. I don’t know if I’ll be able to sleep tonight.
More disgust at myself. Sometimes I feel careless, but that time I thought I had done everything correctly, systematically checking all offsets etcs.
@@RotarySMP at least you can always take those saved thousands to the finance minister and explain the situation with an expectation of adequate empathy.
Just finished watching your videos after randomly having your videos suggested. Really love the details that you put into your videos! Im a welder and seeing this really is inspiring me to look into learning machining and building a lathe!
Glad you are enjoying them. Welcome.
Bonus drill bit repair, you'll be making diamond lapped gauge blocks next :)
:) Thanks.
Tough ending 😭. Happy new machining year to you. Looking forward plenty projects. I like the Cary Le Locle gauge blocks 🇨🇭🇨🇭
Thanks. You as well. They are an ebay set. Pretty worn, some dont wring, but still the most precise thing I own.
Love the sharpening fixture especially 👍🏼
Thanks. The Clarkson is a pretty fun toy.
Your junk pile is better stocked than my actual material pile!
My material pile is so badly organised it has earned the description junk pile :)
Another option is to do a dry run, block by block at a reduced speed. (with your finger over the stop button!). Also you can take say 50mm or so off all the tool offset lengths to do the dry run.
That was a pretty long tool path a couple of tool changes. It would have taken ages to dry run it, especially at reduced speed. The issue was in the way I had my PP set, which deleted the G43 tool offset.
Another great video! Keep it up and you'll get there! 3d printing is great for rapid prototyping, but depending on filament brands can get very fragile with age, something i see a lot nowdays in my oldest prints, so i think you are doing the exactly right thing machining it from aluminium!
Good point. I dont really like to use plastic for structural parts. Actually, I dont even like aluminium for structureal parts. Luck it didn't end up cast iron :)
I am already excited to see the end result. After crashing several end mills at the beginning of a cnc program I added a 10% feed&rapid override button which I now press before each cycle start and then hovering my finger over the feed hold button until I see the first cutting move looking exactly like in the simulation. Since I do this the vise hasn't gotten any new holes.
That is an excellent idea. Did you implement that in LinuxCNC?
I did it for Mach 4. One button for 10% and another for 100%. I hope to do my next cnc with Linux CNC too as there a a couple of limitations in mach and if I have a problem I can't even debug it because I have no source code.
@@ChristophPech LinuxCNC has an excellent community. They are expecially grateful of users who can also code.
@@RotarySMP do you know if parallel port is still usable for linuxcnc if you have a machine with one? I mean, does it limit your speeds if using like 4000 pulses per rev on a stepper and can it handle a tool changer and switching on a coolant pump?
@@MF175mp LinuxCNC can drive through the parallel port. That port is limited to about 35-50kHz depending on the hardware (more modern is not necessarily better). The LPT port only has about 17 I/O pins, so it can be challenging to set up a multi axis machine/encder/ tool change/ coolant etc. You could add a second PCI --> LPT card to get more pins, but I would recommend Mesa cards. They are awesome.
A clever ruse to make the series longer!
Arrgh! I'd rather one less divet in the Maho table than a longer series. Actually by then it was already clear it was going to be a trilogy. Thanks for watching.
@@RotarySMP 😉
You really ought to list your music playlist. You’ve got some real head bangers there. Oh, and nice machining too ;-)
Thanks. This is all license free music available through the RUclips studio.
Very nice work. I enjoyed seeing how you used the drill sharpener. Not many four facet grinds seen on youtube. Keep at the project, is coming along nicely! Thank you, Phil
Thanks. Shame I dropped that drill between the Clarkson and the camera, and only noticed in editing that it had landed on the tip.
Nice project. I like where you are going with this and it looks way better than I thought it would. Ouch at the end.
Thanks. Nothing like added complexity to "improve" the design.
Fantastic work... Großartig. Can't wait to see it coming all together
Thanks for your feedback. I hope the aluminium plate I ordered turns up soon.
Geez man you've even got Edge Precision helping out! Must doing something right with your video content. Thanks for making part 2.
That was really cool of Peter to offer his advice. I now need to practice that process till it becomes habit.
I like how you used the drill to chamfer the hole it just drilled. Brillant.
I learned that from smallcnclathe.
“Oooh, an new video! Nice!”
Really enjoy your channel.
You have made me even more convinced to not ever attempt DIY casting as well as how much I need to get my Maho going again. 😁👍
Definitly priority 1, get the MAHO going. Which model do you have?
@@RotarySMP MH500C with a 4th axis rotating table. Only 432/9 on it right now, but own some 432/10 as well. Needs new EPROMs though (lower SW version) to be able to work with the rest of the older machines limitations and hardware.
1: Get it up and running again as is.
2: Resist to touch anything that works an just be happy.
3: Sell a kidney and get the proper EPROMs.
4: Block your LinuxCNC conversion videos that makes it look way to simple. 😬😅
@@andli461 YOu know it really is not that complicated. PM me on Practical machininst forum, and I will send you the notes I made on "How to" convert the Maho. For reference only :)
@@RotarySMP Be honest - you just want him to fail his conversion to be able to get a fresh table and the 4th axis for your Maho ;)
@@nikboeh1 Shhh! Trade secrets.
Man, you sure made the right choice buying that machine. Wel done :)
Thanks. I am not so sure the Maho feels the same way about my treatment :/
Enjoying the video series, look forward to seeing the camera arm in action 👍
You and me both. I hope the aluminium plate I ordered comes resonably early in the week.
glad to see the mini cnc lathe getting it's fair share of screen time too .
It was handle for this one.
Bouncy TV intro. Gotta love it. Great series too. I look forwqard to the finished stand.
Thanks a lot. I m looking forward to that as well.
very good video...thanks for your time
Thanks for watching again.
Did you really use the twist drill for deburring on the CNC?! You are a genius! (Just gotta remember to put the drill bit in kinda horizontally)
I picked up that tip from smallCNClathe:
ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=smallcnclathe
Yeah, I missed the horizontal part :/
Not sure I should admit to this but I've used a twist drill as a boring bar before 😁
@@ferrumignis Did you regrind it before? Did it survive?
@@ferrumignis Just don't call them twist drills, call them pre ground HSS tool blanks.
@@RotarySMP Yes totally survived but I was only using it on brass so not much of a challenge! Didn't regrind it, was straight out of the drill box. Just had to optimise the rotation in the tool holder to get it to cut nicely.
Awesome build! Look on the bright side. The barbecue is going to taste extra sweet now!
Ouch! Good call. I already removed the lead I spilled.
@@RotarySMP You might was to hose it down too.
@@bobweiram6321 That is the reserve BBQ which is only used for gatherings where the Weber is too small. No chance of any of them in the near future :-/
I always check the setup sheet that fusion (or whatever cam you use) generates to make sure the offset is at the right place and hit feed hold ~20mm above the part after each tool change to check if the height makes sense. Hope your spindle is allright.
Thanks for that. That is also the advice Edge Precision has given me. I guess this is standard best practice for machinists. Unfortunately I am only now learning this. :)
I think most of us that have used CNC have had that happen more then once.
Looking good so far!
Yeah. I hope I dont get used to it.
Really enjoying watching the process
Thanks for the feedback.
Oh no! So sorry for you dinging the table! Setbacks like this suck, respect for keeping up the video cheer!
Thanks for the encouragement.
and suddenly 10k for a camera mount sounds like an amazing deal. JK keep up the good work
Good point. Let Foba crash their own Maho.
And looks like the mini lathe works after all! Remember, don't ask what your lathe can do for you, and rather, what you can do for your lathe.
Good call. :)
you could try and crumble off a bit of the coating on the tip of the electrode so you can strike an arc faster - I'd imagine that's effectively the same thing you do when you scratch it on the workpiece.
I'm not a welding specialist though; you might not be supposed to do that when you do critical welds (like structural welds, pipelines or pressure vessels - nothing you do in the shop) since a short bit of the weld wouldn't fully be covered by flux and you might get inclusions etc., but I think it's the same as with your grinding of the welds - it'll be just fine for the application.
When stick welding, that makes striking harder. The electrode will tend to stick. This is an inverter welder, so it strikes very easily. Because I was not earthing directly to the part, but to the table, sometimes the grime and slag dust on the table, made for poor contact, and made striking the arc a little more difficult.
well accidents happens, sorry bout that, but good project and nice video, you got yourself a new subscriber here. looking forward to the next video, even hit the bell and all
Welcome. I hope to continue to provide interesting content, or improve.
Ouuuh. Fortunately I have never messed with the tables on my Maho's. But that one did some unpleasant sounds. I hope your spindle bearings are alright! (But I guess, it could at least get rid of some energy by deforming the 10mm plate)
Great build btw!
Thanks. I hit the stop just as the port drill got into the table. The machine didn't E-Stop for following error, so the tool holder didn't go on block it seems.
Oh ya Bas**rd !!
Last part, lots of work done to it and the killer is - no more material in stock. The more I think about it the more I feel your frustration.
Nice to see the mini lathe earning it's keep :-)
Thanks for the solidarity. It was a frustrating end.
Films with a happy start and middle, but sad ending. Bad luck, hope it's bettor on the remake.
A happy end is preferable. I just Tolkien also gave the middle of the trilogy a bad ending.
Hello,
An enjoyable video as always... I must admit I had not thought of using the Unimat SL for tapping, a good idea...
Take care
Paul,,
That little Unimat was part of a box of junk I got along with the Boley Collet indexer. I repurposed it's motor for my half arsed cylindrical grinding work on the Clarkson, and the rest is only ever used for little taps.
If you'd need a set of Cary gage blocks and a radius grinding attachment for hss tooling, using cheap carbide tools might seem like a viable option
Can't usually find either cheaper than a grand used
@@MF175mp You dont "need" a radius grinding attachment or gage blocks to grind a radius on the of an HSS tool. But if you have them, they make a nice job :)
@@RotarySMP you need only a 2mm grooving insert with full radius tip and you can make any radius larger than that with the cnc lathe 😅
After watching most of the lathe series I can't wait to see this series! Actually need to make one myself. Thanks for making some great content. Also does Nico have a RUclips channel ?
Thanks... I am hoping to keep this series to a triology.
Not really...
ruclips.net/user/ReplicaHGP
Well too bad it went into the part and the table like that at the end. Maybe you should do a simulation on the machining process before doing the real thing.
Get a paintbrush to clean the chips off the clamp.
Really cool you got the machine running and now its spitting out parts. :)
If i have enough money, i would want to get a Tormach or a Haas, but now thats way beyond my budget. A conversion just wont cut it i think, and a dedicated machine is the way to go.
Greetings,
Jeff
I need a new brush, the one I have for chips is so short the bristles are about 2cm long.
I thought I had simulated it.
Was that a coincidence? This was a perfect weekend! Saturday a new Blondihacks and Clough42 video, and today a new Dragonfly Engineering and ToT video, as well as yours! Are you aware of your cameo in the ToT video?
Yes, Tony and I discussed it. Another great video from him.
That crash hurt ;) Please consider using a potentiometer to turn down the feedrate on the first run with a new tool.
I have feedrate override, but was convinced I'd got everything sorted. Dumb!
i just bought a drill grinder for 50 bucks , works like a charm.
One of those Drill docters?
@@RotarySMP a knockoff but works great. look for dbs800 on youtube.
@@chriskwakernaat2328 Looks pretty good.
ohh man that's awful I have gotten close to that by breaking a tool zeroing my z work offset to set tool offset for the new tool and then forgetting to reset the z work offset again (at this point the machine will try to use all of its z travel to get to the work
) which if left unchecked can break expensive stuff. Using sharp sv 2412 Fanuc control keep up the good work! don't let mistakes like that bother you everyone makes them.
Thanks for the encouragement.
How did the V-wheels hold up against the T-slot profiles over time (as opposed to V-slot profiles)?
They are wearing in. Shame I could#nt find the V-Slot profile at the time.
Oh bugger! I feel your pain mate!
Thanks.
Great videos though. I watched the cnc conversion videos and really enjoyed them.
@@opticalmechanic Thanks for the feedback. Glad you are enjoying them.
as a future project you could cnc the tool grinder
Or make a surface grinder .That would be cool.
Hmmm. Does that qualify as a business expense? And if you'd get a new machine, what would it be? A lathe? A mill?
Yeah, try and sell hobby junk to the financial minister as "business expense" :)
I would kind of like to replace the Boley and Mini lathe with a Schaublin 125 CNC. Then again, I would love to get a Weiler Matador. I really like lathes.
Have you considered mounting an air nozzle opposite the coolant nozzle to keep the swarf clear?
It is on my list, priority one, on page six :-/
Ouch. That was nutty. So what happened? Tool offset did not get loaded? Or wrong tool loaded?
Check out the comment at the top from Edge Precision (I pinned it), I wrote what I think happened.
If you're making a thin part like the first plates, facing it with a smaller endmill can also help with chatter.
Too bad about that last part, shit happens.
Good point. I did the other side with a smaller mill, but figured the visible side would look best with a larger cutter. This is a beast of an index mill, with a huge wiper width square inserts. I should probably grind up a special insert on the Clarkson, to make one with a nice radius instead.
Yeah. The Maho was always going to pay the price of moving in with a home shop amatuer.
That was an anticlimactic end for a beautiful piece. I bet you already found what went wrong in the code and next time it will be perfect :-)
I appreciate your misplaced confidence :)
@@RotarySMP LOL!
Can only imagine how pissed off you felt, wrecking a workpiece that already had a bunch of time put in and getting a bonus ding in the table. I get nervous about this kind of stuff on my toy router, let alone a full size mill.
Yeah. Suboptimal! Normally this sort of thing comes due tired/careless etc. I really thought I had done the right things on that one. Frustrating.
Thanks for watching.
@@RotarySMP From my list of "things learned the hard way": don't operate or set up high power machines when tired, distracted, unable to concentrate for any reason. That includes cars.
Note: I often break my own rule. With consequences. :(
@@besenyeim The poor Maho is suffering through my learning process.
And why are you using that long holder for the center drill? That looks like it was made for prehistoric 5-axis machining!
Also, I didn't even notice the "I'm a potato" yesterday.
I picked it up at some stage, and since it takes a 6mm tool, and I always need a spot drill, it lived (until it's premature demise on sunday) in that holder.
I clipped that from Potato jet. Hope he doesn't mind too much.
@@RotarySMP Wait, is it broken now? On video, it looked like it was just a scratch ;)
@@vincentguttmann2231 The Maho table got a drill start, the holder got polished, but the spot drill went over the Jordan.
@@RotarySMP Ah, I thought the premature demise referred to the tool holder. Now it makes a lot more sense.
Did you Flex your drill grinder at me bro. Now i really Gotta get my shit Togther and make a video on My New drill grinder haha ha 😂
Hi Nikolai, I was afraid you might feel like that :)
I appreciated your offer, but that 7mm drill was essential to this project, and it took my whole box of blunt drills as practice before I got it right, so now I have no blunt drills again.
I am really looking forward to your drill grinder video.
I winced when I saw that crash.
You and me both!
This is coming along nicely but maybe consider adding an "R" rating to your video title. You know, R for RECKED part.... at the end. 😀
Good call. I wasn't too happy how that turned out.
Hey! Can you reverse your grinding wheel to get the cutting forces against the holdingfinger or put the grindingfinger on the other side?
When you watch your video you can even see how the wheel slightly spins your drill :D
Grüße Jens
You cant reverse rotation. I normally hold the drill against the finger. The Clarkson is a cool machine, but can be clunky to set up.
Do you have a spindle encoder on the Maho? I am wondering why you use the Tapmatic rather than rigid tapping?
Hi Andy,
This generation of MAHO has no spindle feedback. It has the dumb 3Ph motor and 18 speed gearbox. One of the guys on the forum dug into the gearbox to add an encoder, but it was a lot of work, and would only make send if I went to a VFD controlled motor. The Tpmatic is a pretty cool device. Very forgiving. Not of bottoming an little M6 tap, but on a bigger tap the clutch would have slipped and nothing would have happened.
i lived near peterhead, scotland
Thanks for watching.
21:56 22:01 that's what a Haas would do, alarm out before you broke anything (bearings)
I never broke a single tool in class but in the turning center once fed too much and part moved askew (light jaw clamp pressure).
we had an autistic guy who was brilliant with the designs but would break a tool every class which really pissed off instructor as he'd never ask anyone for help (or talk period), with tight shop budget.
As Peter said, Feed Hold the saving grace, I always had finger on it and slowed as much as possible: I'm sure a commercial shop would not tolerate that and make me speed up til I started breaking stuff, then slightly back off that since time is money and shoestring budgets...
I appreciate your feedback. This is the problem with autodiadactic learning like I am doing. Seems all the professionals know the standard method to avoid this. I hope I have now learned it :(
Have you ever thought about heat treating the aluminum before machining?
You mean the casting? I did dump in cold water straight from the sand. Not very precise, but if you get lucky you still get some solution hardening. Those plates machined nicely. As cast can also be very gummy.
I have the intention to build a heat treatment oven. Watch for future video.
@@RotarySMP Yes, I cast some blanks, and some of it was pretty gummy on the lathe. Put it in the oven at 200C for a couple hours and it was much better for machining.
The double camera splitscreen shots are hard to follow, it's not possible to watch both at the same time and I end up not really focusing on any.
I am an idiot though so could just be me.
Thanks for the feedback. I am probably overdoing the split screen, because I was so happy to learn a new trick :) Sorry about that.
@@RotarySMP No need to be sorry, it's fun to watch same thing filmed from different angles and if you can't follow, just watch the video or specific part again, that's what J and L are for.
@@RotarySMP I liked it.
🤯 part three 😂😂😂😂
Yep, it will now have to be a trilogy,
@@RotarySMP can't wait 🤯😎🤸🤸♂️
Ouch!
You felt it too :)
So what went wrong near the end? Wrong work offset or wrong tool offset?
I don't know. I had forgotten to add the side machining, so I added that. Feature CAM added a G55, but I caught that. I had gone through each of the five tools and checked there offsets before I started, as I had to set up the three drills I was planning to use.
@@RotarySMP that moment reminded me of the cnc at university, typing g-code manually and starting off with a quick-move. Just to find out that someone changed from tool offset as zero to tool holder as zero 😅
Красота👍👍👍
Thanks.
So it's not just the mixer you borrow from your wife's kitchen, but also the baking tin?
:) I guess that one is mine now.
You breathe heavy at times. Please take care of yourself. I like your videos a lot. Thanks!
True. Need to do more exercise. Covid lock down doesn't help.
€10000 > $12000 .. this camera stand is getting much more expensive every month. Nice investment, i think.
Inflation plus that cost of tooling damage, plus the unexpectedly high scrap rate :)
Marriage as interpreted by the maho.....
Good call :)
Ouch ouch, sad face. :-(
I'm getting too emotionally involved..
I appreciate that.
Vielleicht hast du in deinem Programm am Ende ja nur den Startpunkt in Z falsch gesetzt, ist mir auch schon mal passiert 😅
After the pocketing, I had an unneccessary M2 program stop. But that was handy, As I had forgotten to add the milling to clean up the sides. So I created that code in FeatureCam, and replace the pockets with it. FC did add an unwanted G55, but I caught that. I reset the Z height of the stock, when I reran the modified code.
20:55 - which cam sim tool? 🤓🤔
Ancient version of FeatureCam.
..saw it all. SW must have an z-offset bug 🐛 🤭 But this is always what's happens when I cnc - 4 hours into part then fast downhill 😁
@@TheStuartstardust I am pretty sure a good workman always blames the tools right?
@@RotarySMP ..one can always try that at first 😁 ..but seriously it is the mishaps than learn us the most - great video's - keep it up! 💪
@@TheStuartstardust Thanks for the feedback.
Is it too late to request some fake fingernails to run down the blackboard paint?
;)
Part 2 of all trilogies end in disappointment.
I learnt that from Tolkien as well :)
I would sell everything I own to have a good tool bit grinder...but then, selling everything I own wouldn't buy me a used Deckel. sigh
I got lucky. The clarkson belonged to a good friend, who bought a huge TOS tool grinder which can do anything.So he sold me the Clarkson.
Hmm 3D printed or machines aluminium and steel. Wonder which one will last longer and take more skill to build?? Bit disappointed with the number 1 fan though he always seems to be complaining about something lol :D
I would hope this will last longer, at least till I crash it :)
Forwarded to Nico to stop complaining :)
RotarySMP I have a lovely 3D printer but would give anything to have a shop like yours and the machinery to machine stuff like this. The trick is not to crash it. Please tell Nico I have micro analysed the video and found the brush handle writing at full tightness was actually about 10 microns out of alignment. Sloppy!!
@@AndyJenkins999 That will set off his OCD :)
@@RotarySMP oops!!
@21:55 Sad times. :(
Yeah. Suboptimal that! Thanks for watching.
@@RotarySMP Np. This stuff is great! Almost good as ToT. You thought that you got him with that rabbit thing did you?
I would say this is my favorite small youtube channel, but I already give that title to Cà Lem. But since Cà Lem has 118t subs wich makes his channel larger I say this is my fav tiny channel. :)
MAYR Sicherheitsrutschkupplung active in three... two... one... 21:56 *krgrgrgrgrgr
Yeah, that is about it.
please for the love of god, learn how to sharpen a drill by hand.
That was painful to watch.
I can sharpen a drill by hand. Four facet grind is god when you get it right. I dropped that one on the floor just before I filmed it :(