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Installing new Bike Tires. Am I doing it all wrong?
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2024
- It was an exciting day when I received my brand new Schwinn-brand road-bike-tires. Finally I had tires that were recommended for the old style rims on my bike. In this video you’ll see how I installed them and how the first test ride went. Are those tires going to hold up well?
Here is an affiliate link to the tires you see in this video:
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Those tubes are excellent:
amzn.to/3L3icFU
Music: Theatre Days by Slenderbeats
blowing up the tube first as you did is a must, but I've found too little air it can still get pinch between the rim and bead. too much and it makes getting the tire on, harder. it's finding that happy spot. then I've been riding as an adult for 35 years and tried every chain lube known to man in that span. finally, finally, broke down and tried chain waxing AKA dipping it. best thing I ever did in all these years.
Thanks for bringing that up. I've been curious about this wax too. My problem is how fast those cheap freewheels wear out, not just the chain. As for the tires, I have more on the way 😆
A little tip to prevent the tube from getting lodged between the rim and the tire is to press the valve stem in, not all the way but enough for the tube to seat properly,, pay extra attention to the valve area as this is usually where the tube gets pinched, and massaging the tire all the way around as you inflate, this becomes more important the narrower the tire is.
Good tips. I'm giving the tires another shot. Thanks.
@@the1andonly And this also helps the bead to seat properly as well, some tires are stubborn.
yes
Hello. I noticed a few things. Number one, get rid of those old steel rims and replace them with some alloy "hooked" style rims. Plenty of those around in 27 in.; maybe just get a whole new wheelset from a used bike locally. That fine old Bianchi deserves them. You will notice a better ride quality , and the bike will feel lighter and more responsive to your pedal inputs. Also, when putting on the tires onto your wheels, try to use only your hands to slip them on that final bit. Yes, you will need to use some force with your thumbs, but it usually can be done that way. Be sure to squeeze the tire to get it to sit into the center channel of the rim on the opposite side of where you are thumbing over the tire, and pull hard on the tire to give yourself that extra fraction of an inch clearance. If you absolutely have to use a tire iron or two, be very careful to avoid pinching that tube between the tool and the rim. . Also, it appears that one of the wheels lacks a rim strip...or maybe it is a clear packaging tape one. Make sure you have an intact rim strip, otherwise you will get more flats on the inside of the tube
Thanks for your detailed suggestions. Both my wheels have quality rim tapes (nylon). I'm holding on to those steel rims because I enjoy the way they ride. If you have never tried this, I'd encourage you to give it a shot. I'm not racing this bike, but like the way those steel rims build up momentum and make it easy to maintain hight speed, even up the hill for a short distance. Happy trails!
Hi Jorg: I can relate.I had more than the fair share of blow-outs and I even damaged my hearing with one.
I developed a protocol for mounting tires. It's not completely preventing things from happening but it is an improvement. On the tire just a few millimeters away from the beeds are thin ridges all around the tire. When the tire is mounted these ridges should show and be of consistent distance from the rim. To achieve this I hold the wheel off the ground and pump in about 20 psi. Now I go around and check for this thin ridge all the way around and on both sides. With the pressure this low I ususall can finagle the tire into the seat correctly. Only then I pump it up to higher pressure. With hook rims you may hear a pop when the tire gets pushed into its seat. With flat shoulder rims I increase the pressure in steps and keep checking for the ridges. If the ridge is hidden by the rim you can assume that the tire will blow out somewhere about 180 degrees from the spot.
You mentioned the trick with the soapy water. But there is also a tool that is made using channel lock pliers with concave steel plates welded to the business ends. I don't know the official name. I would call it tire seating pliers. They are very helpful in real tough cases.
BTW: I think your rear tire isn't 100% seated either. And no: you are not too picky about proper seating the tires. It's actually a safety thing. Don't forget the tire pressure rises when temps go up.
Keep going Jorg!
My problems didn't end there. I have another video coming up about it.
Hi Jorge. You are a very lucky man. I don't think you installed the tube wrong, you've done too many. Imagine that tube blowing out while on the test run, real excitement then. Then imaging you putting the new tube in and using the old one for a spare, then far away from anyplace you have a flat. So, smug in the fact you had brought a back up, you reinstalled the old one. Now your twenty minutes from walking. One thing though, on the spokes, I too turned the three spokes tighter on the inside of the bend and two on the opposite. But I always loosened the two before tightening the others. Just saying, I never heard one way or the other.
I think it makes a lot of sense the way you doo it, because you're not working against the extra tension. I'll try to change my method of truing. The only reason I start with tightening is because it seems to show the effect immediately. As for the tires, there were more problems...
With the combination of folding tires and non-clincher rims, a blowout was inevitable.
That's kind of what I thought right off the bat. But I was hopeful. At least for a bit.
good point, a tire with a true wire bead, un-able to fold
@@jakebrakebill I'm still on the fence on that. Willing to try it again paying more attention to precise seating.
@@jakebrakebill Wire-bead ones can be "folded" too, into an 8-or-10-inch circle; there was a time when I often carried a spare that way.
@@TomFrostJr got cha
I couldn't help but wonder if your putting 27" tires on 700c rims. Otherwise your bike is pretty decent, it might be worth considering rebuilding the wheels with a set of nice strong alloy rims but if you are using 27" rims and go to 700c rims, brake reach has to be considered. Usually long reach calipers may be required.
Been through those considerations long ago and made up my mind in favour of the 27" steel rims. Call me crazy, but I love them.
@@the1andonly You do understand that a decent alloy rim will be stronger, lighter, will true up easier and will brake better in the wet? Maybe something vintage with double wall construction. Good luck.
70 is way to much😂
It's at the upper end of the spec for those tires. Makes for a firm and fast ride.