Excellent! You have it nailed with regard to equipment and configuration. One thing I noted, the bulky tow straps should be polyethylene(Dyneema or a variant), much stronger, lighter and less bulky, UV resistant - from the boating world. The Ineos looks well suited to this and the sun roofs with the 3/4 rack looks great and is so functional, the interior rack also. Well done!
Thank you for watching and thanks for the feedback. We would normally use a dyneema rope for an extension. It did not come in the kit we could source in South Africa (recovery kits are challenging to fly with LOL)
Quick editing suggestion meant to be a positive. Love the detail in your presentations. That sound/music stream you have running parallel in the background of your video is right at that frequency and length of dwell time that it’s actually distracting. It’s simply the amount of time each of the transitions hang on a single note. It’s funny how in isolation those sort of long tones are serene and relaxing. But when not seeking relaxation but rather mild anticipation of receiving productive information, those long tones actually work the opposite. Might want to try water or nature sounds at the same low volume. Creates a matching complexity which generates positive imagery that reinforces what you’re describing. I’ve always found it interesting how that works. Keep the Grenadier videos coming! Can’t wait to get mine and go on some adventures!! 👍🏻😎👍🏻
Great walk through Scott, my Grenadier arrives in a few weeks. (same colour 👌) I’ve been planning my setup for a while now, so great to see your thoughts and ideas from real world use 👍
Excellent! Loved your Brüder Exp4 review. Awesome for with the Grenadier! Grenadier is amazing! Getting one from my birth town, in France. Incredible machine. Have you seen the documentary? Incredible trip... No way! You pulled out my TRX 😂 so glad to see an off-roader use it. As it has been created by the military to train anywhere. Awesome adventure guys. It encourages to do the same!
Looks like a wonderful vehicle for this purpose. Would be perfect for a solo traveler like myself. The M&M products are beautiful! Will definitely consider that table.
Really like your setup, nice and simple, not going for a huge fridge and too much equipment. Appreciate the load bay with boxes and without an over complicated draw system, I have done similar in my old defender. Great stuff.
Thank you for the kind words. The drawers have their benefits too, but I like the light weight and ability to reconfigure or move weight around as needed.
In short to make a new vehicle successful: 1- You give the suburban customers something that is reliable, economical, pretty and responsive(a petrol, electric, or a hybrid). These would appreciate pretty exteriors, pretty interiors and consoles, configurable interiors(for partying with friends) and variable suspensions(for occasionally venturing into the outdoors). This is what the vast majority of people buy vehicles for, so this is where you make your money to turn profitable. 2- You give the touring and expedition clientele something that is capable, economical, modular and configurable (which they can modify to suit their needs), but not very responsive or high-performing(a common-rail diesel with or without twin or variable turbochargers. This is where you create a loyal base to generate myths and legends to memorialize the product as it turns into a fabric of their lifestyle. This is where your product will endure,when fads fade out. 3- You give the military and other government agencies something that is capable, high-performing, and reliable, but not very economical(they want something that can best do the job, regardless of economy). This is where you innovate technology and perform research which you can eventually incorporate into your primary line of vehicles. It also helps with marketing to know you’re trusted by the military and relief agencies. 4- You send teams to participate in rallies and championships or to explore the Arctic or the Antarctic or to conquer the deserts in Africa, the Middle East, Mongolia and China; conquer the Tundra in Siberia or the Himalayas and Greenland; or conquer the forests and rivers in the Amazon. This is how you further mythicize and build a legion. All of this helps more than plain advertisements. You can choose military or expedition vehicles for these. This also helps the vehicle earn a place in history.
Enjoyed your vid! Nice walk around 👍 Interesting seeing how it's packed out 2 extinguishers is definitely the way to go. I've seen aspw recently has a pressurised water sprayer which 8s supposed to be better ins one circumstances for. Oolong down the area that is on fire . . . . I thought that was interesting because it's always handy for a quick wash as well
@36:00 I love my drom bags. I call my 10l my "baby seal". You can hang them for hand washing/shower and you can strap them to the roof to heat up the water for either of those. They are tough as hell and take up no room when empty. I like to leave mine on the outside of the vehicle when I go hiking in the event that someone needs water, they have access to it. I've come back to it drained at least once.
Great video, thanks. You have answered my question about how much room to sleep in. I’m just about to place an order for one for myself in NZ. Planning to have some more storage on the left-hand side and have the bed on the right hand side that is removable so I can put other gear in there we’re not in sleep mode. Also, looking at purchasing the two seater version and not the four seater version .
Hi, interesting project. I would also pack some BMW Coolant for the high and low pressure tanks. My Grenadier leaks from somewhere and uses coolant., hopefully you won't experience any hose issues.
Amazing rig! Big fan of the design and usability of the machine. Also, just wanted to know what sunglass are you wearing. Really enjoying the podcast as well. Keep it up!
Great run through Scott! Some nice ideas there from Melvill & Moon. Have a little FOMO over that tool bag. Looks like something one would hold onto for years to come. Safe travels 🤙
Looked at a Grenadier Fieldmaster today in Cape Town....tempting! Great review and walk through. One question. I have a UK plated car down here in SA (on a temp import license thats been rolled over several times thanks to a sympathetic customs dept). How do you deal with border crossings as I thought these were restricted for overseas vehicles? Cheers
In general: 1- The loyal Grenadier/Land Rover customer base would either be in the touring vehicle (Defender, Land Cruiser, 4 Runner, etc.), motor-home vehicle(campers or those that can tow campers) or specialty vehicles segments( like the Unimog Or PInz Gauer), where very few can compete with you, so this is the clientele that you need to invest in to generate a brand-following. Touring and expedition vehicles have to be diesel, and their suspensions need to be permanently raised or lowered, so they don’t break. These could also benefit from the Central Tire Inflation System. 2- Expedition vehicles could turn your brand mythical and legendary to attract both touring and suburban clients with tales of your legends. These could have a long-chassis and a third-axle to retain their break-over angles and very large ground clearances and arrival and departure angles. These could also serve as specialty vehicles(much like Unimog or Pinz Gauer) for use in the military or other agencies. These would also lend themselves to remodeling as campers, albeit, 3rd-axle campers wouldn’t be very economical, so you might, again, have to offer a twin-axle variant that doesn’t have a very bad fuel economy. 3- Suburban clients would generally be novices experimenting with different vehicles and easily impressed with gimmicks, consoles and looks, so you can provide these with a variable suspension and other superficial and useless gimmicks. These would be perpetually comparing your vehicle with others and experimenting and frequently swapping vehicles, so wouldn’t really be loyal customers, but these would still account for the sales of the largest numbers of vehicles, so would still be very important. You can provide hybrid-electric models only for the suburban clientele. Touring and expedition clients would neither be stopping adequately to benefit from regenerative-braking nor having access to infrastructure to charge or having the ability to carry their own solar panels or wind turbines for charging. Nothing in life is free. This means that there isn’t only an extra cost if you really want a vehicle to perform well on any particular feature, but there are also unintended consequences in terms of frequent serviceability and even breakages (unless you’re willing to spend a fortune on engineering and don’t mind accumulating a massive eventual weight), so you choose what is really crucial to you and have the vehicle or another product deliver on that, decide what other factors are important, but not crucial and have the vehicle perform reasonably well on those, and finally the features that you believe would be nice to have but aren’t really essential, and offer these as options. I would want a low-center of gravity and portal axles on models that are frequently used on the highway and less frequently used off-road, but I wouldn’t mind raising the center of gravity for expedition vehicles if I couldn’t improve on the ground clearance without doing so. I might not even choose portal axles if these would be liable to require replacement more frequently and had availability or repairing know-how issues. I would have a central tire inflation system on expedition models, but not on those that are likely to mostly ply on highways. I would also have a heavier suspension on expedition vehicles and rely on the extra-load to help dampen the oscillations. I would have a pneumatic suspension on vehicles likely to ply mostly on highways and occasionally venture off-road, but a permanently raised suspension on expedition vehicles to avoid breakages. I would want a good fuel economy(smaller petrol engines or diesel-electric hybrid) and a zippier engine response on vehicles designed to primarily operate on highways, but a high torque-engine(longer stroke, so sluggish response) on expedition vehicles even if it were less responsive(common-rail diesel with or without twin or variable turbochargers). I would even want larger wheels on an expedition vehicles and, perhaps, even a 3rd-axle for the same break-over angle for a longer chassis. For smaller vehicles if you place the front and rear axles at the extremities of the vehicles and raise the suspension, you get the best arrival and departure angles and unless the wheel-base is very long, you also don’t lose out much on the break-over angles. You can never have things both ways. As for designing vehicles for environmental emergencies---volcanoes, asteroids, acid rains, floods, etc: I have an 18,000 BTU Panasonic reversible DC-inverter air condition in my room. The filtration is so perfect that it even filters out 20 Nano Meter viral particles, but then, as you would imagine, it tends to frequently clog up with sediment. I have a 7-stage reverse osmosis water filtration system that, again, filters out even .0001 micron or 10 NM particles to effectively filter out all sediment, protozoa, amoeba, bacteria and viruses, but it also filters out essential minerals and would deny my body essential minerals for osmosis and chemical reactions, unless I was getting those through other parts of my diet. A positive cabin pressure to keep everything out would also stress the heart and lungs, just like at what happens to deep-sea divers. I believe if chemicals suspended in the air can be filtered with different electrodes, then nothing like it. Those in the water, again, with electrodes, it would also be better.
Quite a wishlist. Could look at replicating Austin Champ wading depth capabilities and extend the positive cabin pressurusation to include chemical scrubbing applicable to warding off volcanic eruptions. Need to consider also expanded reliability with dual alternators and dual batteries. The sky is the limit.
I would recommend the expensive Fyre strike for fire extinguisher 1. It s significantly lighter and smaller 2. It does not expire 3.not pressurised 4. It will not damage your car as much, especially electronics 5. No maintenance or expiry date
there is a stripped down "utility wagon" version that is available in certain countries. go on the configurator online and i think you'll find it for any european country. it's completely bare in the rear if you opt for the 2 seat version, kind of like a panel van. it fits 1 Euro Pallet inside. it also comes in a 5 seat version. and just to clarify i'm talking about a version that is completely different from the base "Grenadier" trim or the Fieldmaster and Trialmaster trims.
The biggest pro to the shape I can see if that you can put a sleeping tray with usable cargo space and still have sitting headroom inside. This is the main reason I won't add one to my 80 series because if I do the roof is too close for comfort. Wish we got high roofs here.
@@ExpeditionPortal curious to know if there will be any problems with sourcing petrol on the more northern areas (I do prefer the Petrol version myself I feel)
"End deflector" - tried to find it, no luck. What is it 2 hoses and a pressure gage? Compressor ???? A link to ut would be nice. Not even one wrench / nuts???
Wow! The Grenadier truly is a very useful vehicle and what a great link! I just followed the Ineos Grenadier to discover that this is a full-fledged expedition channel. I have a few general queries regarding Camping/Expedition-ing that don’t pertain to the Ineos Grenadier. 1- Would it help to have a commercial or military truck with a large wheel-diameter and a larger ground-clearance for better approach and departure clearances to climb obstacles or descend from them when exploring the Arctic, South America, Africa and Asia, etc.? 2- Would a third axle help with break-over angles, or are the angles such that a third axle would never really be required? 3- I don’t like bikes, so are there options for small three-wheel or four-wheel vehicles that can be carried along? Would these be permitted to operate on the motorways because they might not meet the criteria set for typical vehicles and wouldn’t even have registration tags on them? 4- If large trucks wouldn’t make much of a difference, then, I would like to have a vehicle like the Grenadier tow a Bruder or another expedition trailer, dump it somewhere, and then explore the country in the same towing vehicle. Would these trailers still take on steep gradients or would these tend to even impair the ability of the towing vehicle on steep gradients, in tight turns, and on heavily broken ground? Does one really need the larger expedition trucks in lieu of the towed trailers? 5- Would it make sense to tow a small trailer for locked safety from intruders and then augment the areas or the living space by deploying tents? It also helps to have a vehicle, like the Grenadier, to join the seats to turn them into a bed for emergencies. 6- Would it be a problem to get one of the expedition trucks or the smaller vehicles(with a towed camper) onto a ferry when crossing geographies? 7- Would the spares and service availability be the best for vehicles that are widely used globally, like the Toyota 4Runner? Would Ineos or the others have service or spares issues? 8- Can you park on unused land in countries that don’t have proper parks for expedition vehicles? Where do you park? 9- Nights are pleasant even in the hottest of countries; so if you’re traveling in an air-conditioned vehicle all- day, then you’d just need good sleeping bags for the cold countries. I mean, all it takes, is a tiny lantern to heat up a small tent on some of the highest snow-clad mountains. Would a 600-watt air-conditioner suffice for the bedroom in the largest camper? 10- is carrying a firearm prohibited in most countries? Can you take a handgun, a hunting rifle, an air-gun, or crossbow? What do you do with the firearm if its prohibited in some of the countries that you are traveling through? Deposit and recollect it or have them seal it and then open it, again, at the border? 11- Is it easy to obtain a license to hunt or fish in most countries? 12- From where do you obtain water? Are there public sources? What if you can’t find inhabitants to get the water from? Do you harvest rainwater or find streams, rivers lakes, etc.? Are the streams perennial and marked on the maps? Can you use humidifiers to get water from the atmosphere in countries with a high degree of moisture? How deep would the water-table be in flat, hot and dry countries in the worse case-scenario? Would maps provide such information? 13- How good are the water-filtration systems that you can carry inside your vehicle or that come with the camper? I think, the smallest virus around 20 nano-meters, but sediment should be much larger, so if the filters are good enough to even filter all the sediment, minerals, and chemicals, then perhaps one could boil the water to eradicate the germs? Can you even refill from filthy sources? Can you refill saline sea-water? Do any of these distill? 14- How do you communicate? Is cellular coverage available even in remote and sparsely populated areas? I know Iridium provides Pole-to-Pole coverage, but is quite expensive. Would Inmarsat be good even over land in most regions? What about Musk’s network? What about HF radios and HF-internet? Most of the satellite providers also provide beacons that can track you in an emergency.
South Africa is one of the world's leading mining countries, I think quality tools should be available South Africa also manufacture incredible 4x4 products, trailers, caravans, etc, it's a very advanced industry in the country!
I imagine this will be difficult as you have to carry a lot of fuel or go places where there is a lot of fuel stations as it isn’t very good on fuel late teens I’ve seen
This is the process I’d follow to design a vehicle. 1- I’d first take a look at the number of people for the typical version to carry. i- I’d then decide If I need to seat two, three or more people in a single row to decide on the number of rows. ii- I’d then decide on the comfortable spacing between the people in the same row(so they can move around and don’t feel too cramped at the shoulders and the hips) to arrive at the width of the cabin. iii- If I can’t comfortably seat the required number of people in the same row without making the vehicle too broad, then I’d move them on to a different row to increase the length of the vehicle. Broad vehicles are more comfortable and stable, provided they don’t encounter issues on narrow roads or in traffic. iv-I’ll decide on the spacing between the rows for optimal leg-room to decide on the length of the cabin. v- I’d decide on whether the rear passengers need to be seated in normal rows or in facing rows(like those on the trains(for added leg-room and better social interaction and with perhaps even a table between them). I’d make arrangements for normal rows and then see if the facing rows can also be incorporated into almost the same dimensions and eventually, perhaps, sell the basic model with the normal rows. I’ll make these modifications to the cabin dimensions. vi- I’ll decide on how the seats will fold to swap people for cargo and vice-versa. I'd see if the seats need to be joined together to sleep people in overnight emergencies? If the people needed place holders for refreshments and snacks or laptops and phone? I would also make allowances for wiring, tables, and place holders inside the car. I’d see if the seats needed to move on rails to increase or decrease leg-room or if they needed to swivel to the sides. I’d account for these dimensions, as well. I’d look at different typical seats---their depth, length, width and height. I’ll factor these into the length, width and height dimensions of the cabin. vi- I’ll decide on the accessories or the luxuries that people need to carry on themselves to see if any changes need to be made the width or the length. vii- I’ll decide on the luggage that vehicle needs to carry-the quantity and the individual size of the packages. I’ll make these changes to the cabin dimensions. viii- I’d decide if the shape needed to be boxy to optimize space, if it needed to be curvaceous or angular to improve aerodynamic efficiency or rainfall- or snow-clearing efficiency or to pander to a particular stylistic palate, or if it needed contours for strength or the aesthetics. I’d use these to modify the dimensions of the cabin. ix- I’ll also factor the head room, the shoulder room, the equipment room on the console and anything else that might need to be taken into account. Here, I would also take into account the angles through which the driver and other passengers would look out the windows or interact with each other. I would make all of these angles comfortable.. This would give me the length, width, and height of the vehicle’s cabin. 2- I’d then look for an engine to carry this weight and decide on the axles, wheels and gear-boxes to move it. 3- Having arrived at the height, length, width and weight of the cabin, I’d look at how the under-the-belly machinery, the machinery in the engine compartment, and any potential equipment at the back and on top will interact with the passenger compartment to make additional and final changes to the cabin dimensions. 4- I’d then look at the typical role of the vehicle to decide on the ground-clearance, the spacing of the axles(for arrival and departure and angles) and the spacing between the axles for the break-over angle to see if additional changes need to be made to the dimensions of the cabin. 5- I’d then look at the typical wheel-sizes and turning radii to make additional changes. I’ll also leave room to make modifications to the vehicles in terms of wheel sizes and winches. I’ll see if any these need to be reflected in the cabin dimensions. 6- At this stage, I’ll also take a look at the typical speed of the vehicle, the trailer towed, and the terrain to decide on the thickness of steel or other metal girders for the ladder or other frame and also the thickness of the steel for the beams and the plates for the cabin shell, the floor, the roof, the front, the sides, and rear to absorb the shocks from impact with pot-holes, uneven ground, rocks, and scraping with the terrain or other vehicles and also those from impact during serious accidents with the terrain or other vehicles and the falling of the vehicle from great height. You would want the steel to be hard enough to be unscathed with minor impact and to collapse to absorb the shock from major impacts, but you’d want the passenger compartment to neither get crushed with a fall of the vehicle from great heights or from impact with other cars, so you’ll want the inner beams to be strong, but the outer beams and plates to collapse and absorb the shock of the impact. The thickness of the different types of steel or other metal will provide you with the weight of the shell of the vehicle. 7- I’ll then look at the optimal suspension and gearing options. At this stage, I’ll arrive at all under-belly machinery. 8- I’ll leave room for people to modify the suspension to their personal likes---raise or lower it---to add additional fuel tanks, or footrests, or other points. 9- I’ll then go back to the vehicle’s cabin to decide on the final placement of seats, doors, consoles. I’ll also leave room for people to add radios or other things to the console. These would provide me with the final tweaked dimensions for the vehicle’s cabin. 10- I’d then look for the optimal engine(power, torque, turbo or non-turbo, fuel-consumption, and parts and serviceability), gear box(the right gearing for steep ascents and descents, for pulling the trailer, for easily cornering and controlling the vehicle on tough terrain, for overtaking other vehicles on country road and motorways, and for cruising at the optimal economic speed on the highways), transfer case(geared, not chained), differentials(those that don’t break and are easy to replace or repair) , axles(ported or typical(whichever ones are robust, less likely to fail, more infrequently to get replaced, and easily to get replaced), wheel-drums, brakes/discs, fluid lines, etc. 11- I’ll then look at the front and rear bumpers and things I’d want to add to them. Also the side fenders, the room that I need for each individual wheel to have for easy replacement and repairs. 12- I’d see if I need to provide racks/roof on the roof for additional luggage or room for a sunroof, a radio or satellite antenna on the bumper or attached to a fender. 13- I’ll, now, decide on the proper engine horse power, torque and engine response(short, medium or long-stroke engine --keeping the power and efficiency in mind), the gear box with the proper gear ratios(keeping the typical terrain in mind) and the brakes (keeping the typical braking distance, terrain, and temperature in mind and the towed weight in mind). 14- I’d see if I need to leave room for anything to be added to the front bumper---winches or antennas---or the rear-towing contraption and electrical points or other control mechanism for the modulation of the trailer. 15- I’d decide on the range of the vehicle, the typical fuel tank to attain that range and the ability to add additional fuel tanks to enhance the range. I’d also decide on the fuel filtration system and perhaps incorporate a separate, but easily replacement coarse filter next to the tank for foul fuel in poor countries. 16- I’ll see if I need to leave any room for the eventual electrification---an all-electric, a hybrid-electric(primary internal combustion), or a hybrid-internal combustion(primary electric with a backup generator for areas that don’t have charging points). I’ll draw an entirely separate design for a future electric vehicle without losing the primary characteristics of this vehicle. 17- I’ll finally choose the placement of the internal console, the pedals, the seats and the doors, etc., and lend the vehicle out to people who are likely to thoroughly abuse it(enthusiasts) and those who are likely to be its typical customers to incorporate their changes in the final model to reflect the tastes of the typical uses, but make room for the enthusiasts to modify it to make it a mythical being.
As long as they don't produce it, in general, it looks like paid ads. I don't believe in this brand at all. A BMW engine and reliability... what nonsense!
@@ExpeditionPortal Inviously far from easy, but the ole bait and switch is never a good look. While I can afford to pay for one, I refuse to support bad faith.
The world has turned far more affluent over the years-the wages have risen, whereas the costs of production have dropped-so, you wouldn’t want to give people a vehicle as basic as the Land Cruiser or the Toyota J40 or J70. The vast majority would scoff at the elemental functionality. I suppose you’d want to give them something a tad premium, like the Mercedes E Class or the BMW 3 and 5 series or, at the very least, the Land Rover Discovery. There no longer is even a market for short wheel-base vehicles because of the rising affluence, so don't offer anything too small or cramped. If you want to sell your vehicle as a premium and desirable product, then by making it cheap and selling it to the most basic of buyers, you might destroy its brand image as a quality or a desirable product. I think reliable products are very easy to manufacture. If you keep products simple and functional, you decrease the number of components that can malfunction or fail. Now, if you reduce the number of components, you greatly reduce the costs. This means that the few components that have to go in can be very high quality and reliable. There is nothing that can’t be engineered to perfection, the only limitation is the cost and the weight. We buy a Toyota not because it is the fastest, the most comfortable, or the most economical vehicle because we know it wouldn’t break or fail. Looks are the easiest thing to get right. Fuel economy or speed, whichever you desire, also isn’t difficult to get right. Accident safety isn’t hard either. Comfort is also easy. It’s the reliability that most manufacturers can’t get right, when it should be quite easy. During the late 1970s and early 1980s, I travelled across deserts(through 50 degrees Celsius or 120 degrees Fahrenheit of scorched earth) and snow-clad mountains(below freezing temperatures at over 13,000ft)-at times with no person in sight and at times through some of the roughest neighborhoods in the world in a Toyota J40 or a J70--certain that the vehicle would never let me down, and it never did. That was the only reason why I bought Toyota, knowing that I could go through the harshest terrain, at any time of the night or the day, without any support services, assured that the vehicle would never breakdown. The vehicle wasn’t powerful, comfortable, fast, or economical, but so reliable that I don’t recall having ever taken it for repairs. One had a 3.2L non-turbo, low-RPM engine when turbo-engines at the time were plagued with oil leaks, so nothing really could go wrong with it. The gearing was such that even though the engine wasn’t very responsive, you still always had sufficient, though never excessive, power. The stroke was long, so you had tremendous torque . The other had a 4.2L non-turbo petrol engine, so it was very responsive and powerful. None were very high-RPM and the petrol engine wasn’t even very high compression, so the wear was minimal. The front brakes were disc, but the rear were drum, so if one set of brakes got wet or got damaged with impact, the other performed. If you look at the early Land Rover: it had a very short wheel-base, with axles placed at the extremities and a very good ground clearance, so naturally very good arrival, departure and break-over angles. With very few components to break or malfunction, it was naturally also very reliable. These days the preferences have shifted and there are numerous options to choose from, so a car that is very basic might not sell to customers that can get better options for the same or a slightly higher price. But, one could still pitch different models to different markets and provide them with the option to choose engine and other features from the entire range of options available. Earlier Japanese cars were cheap, but they offered bare and reliably functionality. People preferred them because they were reliable and because they didn’t fall apart to lose their value, so you could get a very good resale price. German cars were not cheap, but very high-performance, comfortable, though not luxurious, yet very reliable. People preferred them for the blend of reliability and performance and were willing to pay a premium for them. Rolls Royce was luxury, high-performance, and comfortable, so those who had the money didn’t compromise on anything. Other cars were very large, luxurious, spacious and comfortable, but quite affordable and cheap, so neither economical nor reliable. People didn’t like them because they were plagued with problems and couldn’t get a decent resale value. Since these also weren’t economical, the prices plummeted every time there was an oil-shock. Now, with the rising affluence, you don’t want to create a product as basic and rudimentary as the Land Rover or the Toyota J40/J70. You might want makers like Suzuki and Jeep fill that niche, and, yourself, offer a more capable, quality, and differentiated product. You shouldn’t offer bare functionality, like the Land Rover or the J40/J70, but whatever you provide on the vehicle should be so well thought-of, designed, and engineered that it should be close to impossible for it to break.
@@ExpeditionPortal I would never even go for a ride in something so cramped and basic as the Jimny. I'd take the Mercedes AMG 6X6 Brabus or the G63 Brabus
I appreciate all the efforts made for this video, but this is a new brand with an unknown future. Unfortunately, modern society is being driven by consumerism, and marketing dominates over engineering. I don't want to talk about an automatic gearbox on a 'supposedly' serious off-road vehicle (which is nonsensical to me) or about the 'reliability' of a BMW engine under its bonnet... Let time judge us. So far, the Toyota LC 70 series with a 4.5 diesel and manual gearbox is my choice. I will be back to consider the Grenadier in 5 years if it survives as a brand at all.
All fair points, but an automatic will always have a performance advantage in technical terrain due to the torque converter. It is the reason any competitive rock crawler uses an automatic. Now personally, I love a manual transmission because of the simplicity, the ability to "bump" start, and just the pure joy or rowing my own gears. For the Land Cruiser 78s we drove around the world, they had a manual.
@@ExpeditionPortal You are right in terms of the performance of the automatic gearbox, but on the other hand, simplicity, reliability, and the fact that I can find spare parts for it at the closest farm or human settlement leave no choice for the Grenadier. I cannot imagine when Grenadier will achieve the same level of reliability, affordable spare parts, customization, and simplicity that Toyota achieved decades ago. This is crucial for me because it is necessary for surviving in the harsh Australian environment
It does seem to bother some people. I never noticed it and quickly adapted to the slightly taller dead pedal. (I am 6'1") But it is understandable if some people are more affected by it.
Excellent! You have it nailed with regard to equipment and configuration. One thing I noted, the bulky tow straps should be polyethylene(Dyneema or a variant), much stronger, lighter and less bulky, UV resistant - from the boating world. The Ineos looks well suited to this and the sun roofs with the 3/4 rack looks great and is so functional, the interior rack also. Well done!
Thank you for watching and thanks for the feedback.
We would normally use a dyneema rope for an extension. It did not come in the kit we could source in South Africa (recovery kits are challenging to fly with LOL)
Wow, after all those years of overlanding I learned a few new things here. Like the pressure balancing kit. Makes sense.
Thanks for watching.
Quick editing suggestion meant to be a positive. Love the detail in your presentations. That sound/music stream you have running parallel in the background of your video is right at that frequency and length of dwell time that it’s actually distracting. It’s simply the amount of time each of the transitions hang on a single note. It’s funny how in isolation those sort of long tones are serene and relaxing. But when not seeking relaxation but rather mild anticipation of receiving productive information, those long tones actually work the opposite. Might want to try water or nature sounds at the same low volume. Creates a matching complexity which generates positive imagery that reinforces what you’re describing. I’ve always found it interesting how that works. Keep the Grenadier videos coming! Can’t wait to get mine and go on some adventures!! 👍🏻😎👍🏻
Thank you for the feedback. We will pass this on.
Great walk through Scott, my Grenadier arrives in a few weeks. (same colour 👌) I’ve been planning my setup for a while now, so great to see your thoughts and ideas from real world use 👍
Keep us up to date on your vehicle and travels. So good to see more Grenadiers out and about.
So am I hearing this correctly, those Melville and Moon seat covers are the ones they offer from the factory?
No. The Melville and Moon seat covers are NOT the same as those supplied by Ineos@@leftcoastoverland8750
Excellent! Loved your Brüder Exp4 review. Awesome for with the Grenadier! Grenadier is amazing! Getting one from my birth town, in France. Incredible machine. Have you seen the documentary? Incredible trip... No way! You pulled out my TRX 😂 so glad to see an off-roader use it. As it has been created by the military to train anywhere. Awesome adventure guys. It encourages to do the same!
South African, Melvill and Moon is just beautiful stuff!
Looks like a wonderful vehicle for this purpose. Would be perfect for a solo traveler like myself.
The M&M products are beautiful! Will definitely consider that table.
Really like your setup, nice and simple, not going for a huge fridge and too much equipment. Appreciate the load bay with boxes and without an over complicated draw system, I have done similar in my old defender. Great stuff.
Thank you for putting my beloved country
Mozambique ❤
You have such a wonderful country. Loved it there
Great video, I'm tempted to get rid of my drawer system and go with your box system. Beautifully presented video. Have a great trip!
Thank you for the kind words. The drawers have their benefits too, but I like the light weight and ability to reconfigure or move weight around as needed.
Nice. Great idea to not over modify to start.
Thanks for sharing your setup and kit! Looks like a great trip!
Great video. I’m going with the full rack as I have a small auto home roof tent plus I’m adding the water tanks plus the storage box.
In short to make a new vehicle successful:
1- You give the suburban customers something that is reliable, economical, pretty and responsive(a petrol, electric, or a hybrid). These would appreciate pretty exteriors, pretty interiors and consoles, configurable interiors(for partying with friends) and variable suspensions(for occasionally venturing into the outdoors). This is what the vast majority of people buy vehicles for, so this is where you make your money to turn profitable.
2- You give the touring and expedition clientele something that is capable, economical, modular and configurable (which they can modify to suit their needs), but not very responsive or high-performing(a common-rail diesel with or without twin or variable turbochargers. This is where you create a loyal base to generate myths and legends to memorialize the product as it turns into a fabric of their lifestyle. This is where your product will endure,when fads fade out.
3- You give the military and other government agencies something that is capable, high-performing, and reliable, but not very economical(they want something that can best do the job, regardless of economy). This is where you innovate technology and perform research which you can eventually incorporate into your primary line of vehicles. It also helps with marketing to know you’re trusted by the military and relief agencies.
4- You send teams to participate in rallies and championships or to explore the Arctic or the Antarctic or to conquer the deserts in Africa, the Middle East, Mongolia and China; conquer the Tundra in Siberia or the Himalayas and Greenland; or conquer the forests and rivers in the Amazon. This is how you further mythicize and build a legion. All of this helps more than plain advertisements. You can choose military or expedition vehicles for these. This also helps the vehicle earn a place in history.
Enjoyed your vid! Nice walk around 👍
Interesting seeing how it's packed out
2 extinguishers is definitely the way to go. I've seen aspw recently has a pressurised water sprayer which 8s supposed to be better ins one circumstances for. Oolong down the area that is on fire . . . . I thought that was interesting because it's always handy for a quick wash as well
@36:00 I love my drom bags. I call my 10l my "baby seal". You can hang them for hand washing/shower and you can strap them to the roof to heat up the water for either of those. They are tough as hell and take up no room when empty. I like to leave mine on the outside of the vehicle when I go hiking in the event that someone needs water, they have access to it. I've come back to it drained at least once.
Great video, thanks.
You have answered my question about how much room to sleep in.
I’m just about to place an order for one for myself in NZ.
Planning to have some more storage on the left-hand side and have the bed on the right hand side that is removable so I can put other gear in there we’re not in sleep mode.
Also, looking at purchasing the two seater version and not the four seater version .
Hi, great video. Will there be a follow video of the actual trip?
We have started publishing the trip videos. It will be a multi-part series.
Very informative. Eloquently executed. Thank you sincerely!
Thank you for watching
Hi, interesting project. I would also pack some BMW Coolant for the high and low pressure tanks. My Grenadier leaks from somewhere and uses coolant., hopefully you won't experience any hose issues.
So far we have been lucky. No coolant loss
Watched multiple times, so much it is insightful. Could you release a pdf for recovery and repair tools and gear ⚙️?
Thank you for watching Samantha. We are working on a comprehensive equipment list.
Amazing rig! Big fan of the design and usability of the machine. Also, just wanted to know what sunglass are you wearing. Really enjoying the podcast as well. Keep it up!
The sunglasses are from Aether Apparel
Nice video.
FYI You can order from Ineos a 3/4 roof rack. Handy if you have the safari windows.
Safe travels.
Agree. The 3/4 Ineos rack was not available when I left for the trip. Nice to have choices for sure.
Thank you for this Scott. You really have got me thinking…..
Thank you for sharing
You are welcome. Would be amazing to see how you would build one.
@@ExpeditionPortal I would love to. Maybe one day.
Safe travels mate. I’m slightly jealous 😂
Thanks for this video, I hope you continue to have a great journey. How is the leg/ foot room for the driver? I’ve heard it can be a bit small.
I can see how it can be cramped for some, but I tend to like that foot elevated a bit.
Great run through Scott! Some nice ideas there from Melvill & Moon. Have a little FOMO over that tool bag. Looks like something one would hold onto for years to come. Safe travels 🤙
So true. That is a lifetime tool bag. Their stuff is so overlandy I just can't help myself LOL.
-Scott
Looked at a Grenadier Fieldmaster today in Cape Town....tempting! Great review and walk through. One question. I have a UK plated car down here in SA (on a temp import license thats been rolled over several times thanks to a sympathetic customs dept). How do you deal with border crossings as I thought these were restricted for overseas vehicles? Cheers
I am using a Carnet de Passage, which makes border crossings a breeze 🙏🏻
Does your vehicle have the center locker? And have you used it yet?
It does have the rear, center, front lockers
what is the brand for the camer and how hard was it routing the power cable? thanks
So looks like you have the Ineos seat covers correct?
Did you get some for the rear seats?
We put them on the front and rear seats
In general:
1- The loyal Grenadier/Land Rover customer base would either be in the touring vehicle (Defender, Land Cruiser, 4 Runner, etc.), motor-home vehicle(campers or those that can tow campers) or specialty vehicles segments( like the Unimog Or PInz Gauer), where very few can compete with you, so this is the clientele that you need to invest in to generate a brand-following. Touring and expedition vehicles have to be diesel, and their suspensions need to be permanently raised or lowered, so they don’t break. These could also benefit from the Central Tire Inflation System.
2- Expedition vehicles could turn your brand mythical and legendary to attract both touring and suburban clients with tales of your legends. These could have a long-chassis and a third-axle to retain their break-over angles and very large ground clearances and arrival and departure angles. These could also serve as specialty vehicles(much like Unimog or Pinz Gauer) for use in the military or other agencies. These would also lend themselves to remodeling as campers, albeit, 3rd-axle campers wouldn’t be very economical, so you might, again, have to offer a twin-axle variant that doesn’t have a very bad fuel economy.
3- Suburban clients would generally be novices experimenting with different vehicles and easily impressed with gimmicks, consoles and looks, so you can provide these with a variable suspension and other superficial and useless gimmicks. These would be perpetually comparing your vehicle with others and experimenting and frequently swapping vehicles, so wouldn’t really be loyal customers, but these would still account for the sales of the largest numbers of vehicles, so would still be very important.
You can provide hybrid-electric models only for the suburban clientele. Touring and expedition clients would neither be stopping adequately to benefit from regenerative-braking nor having access to infrastructure to charge or having the ability to carry their own solar panels or wind turbines for charging.
Nothing in life is free. This means that there isn’t only an extra cost if you really want a vehicle to perform well on any particular feature, but there are also unintended consequences in terms of frequent serviceability and even breakages (unless you’re willing to spend a fortune on engineering and don’t mind accumulating a massive eventual weight), so you choose what is really crucial to you and have the vehicle or another product deliver on that, decide what other factors are important, but not crucial and have the vehicle perform reasonably well on those, and finally the features that you believe would be nice to have but aren’t really essential, and offer these as options.
I would want a low-center of gravity and portal axles on models that are frequently used on the highway and less frequently used off-road, but I wouldn’t mind raising the center of gravity for expedition vehicles if I couldn’t improve on the ground clearance without doing so. I might not even choose portal axles if these would be liable to require replacement more frequently and had availability or repairing know-how issues. I would have a central tire inflation system on expedition models, but not on those that are likely to mostly ply on highways. I would also have a heavier suspension on expedition vehicles and rely on the extra-load to help dampen the oscillations. I would have a pneumatic suspension on vehicles likely to ply mostly on highways and occasionally venture off-road, but a permanently raised suspension on expedition vehicles to avoid breakages. I would want a good fuel economy(smaller petrol engines or diesel-electric hybrid) and a zippier engine response on vehicles designed to primarily operate on highways, but a high torque-engine(longer stroke, so sluggish response) on expedition vehicles even if it were less responsive(common-rail diesel with or without twin or variable turbochargers). I would even want larger wheels on an expedition vehicles and, perhaps, even a 3rd-axle for the same break-over angle for a longer chassis. For smaller vehicles if you place the front and rear axles at the extremities of the vehicles and raise the suspension, you get the best arrival and departure angles and unless the wheel-base is very long, you also don’t lose out much on the break-over angles.
You can never have things both ways.
As for designing vehicles for environmental emergencies---volcanoes, asteroids, acid rains, floods, etc:
I have an 18,000 BTU Panasonic reversible DC-inverter air condition in my room. The filtration is so perfect that it even filters out 20 Nano Meter viral particles, but then, as you would imagine, it tends to frequently clog up with sediment.
I have a 7-stage reverse osmosis water filtration system that, again, filters out even .0001 micron or 10 NM particles to effectively filter out all sediment, protozoa, amoeba, bacteria and viruses, but it also filters out essential minerals and would deny my body essential minerals for osmosis and chemical reactions, unless I was getting those through other parts of my diet.
A positive cabin pressure to keep everything out would also stress the heart and lungs, just like at what happens to deep-sea divers.
I believe if chemicals suspended in the air can be filtered with different electrodes, then nothing like it. Those in the water, again, with electrodes, it would also be better.
Quite a wishlist. Could look at replicating Austin Champ wading depth capabilities and extend the positive cabin pressurusation to include chemical scrubbing applicable to warding off volcanic eruptions. Need to consider also expanded reliability with dual alternators and dual batteries. The sky is the limit.
I would recommend the expensive Fyre strike for fire extinguisher
1. It s significantly lighter and smaller
2. It does not expire
3.not pressurised
4. It will not damage your car as much, especially electronics
5. No maintenance or expiry date
I do like those. Thanks for the reminder
A very basic, base model grenadier would be cool, now you can cut the roof for that alu-cab roof tent.
there is a stripped down "utility wagon" version that is available in certain countries. go on the configurator online and i think you'll find it for any european country. it's completely bare in the rear if you opt for the 2 seat version, kind of like a panel van. it fits 1 Euro Pallet inside. it also comes in a 5 seat version. and just to clarify i'm talking about a version that is completely different from the base "Grenadier" trim or the Fieldmaster and Trialmaster trims.
Wow! This was INCREDIBLE! 😎
The biggest pro to the shape I can see if that you can put a sleeping tray with usable cargo space and still have sitting headroom inside. This is the main reason I won't add one to my 80 series because if I do the roof is too close for comfort. Wish we got high roofs here.
Where is your spare wheel cover from? I need that for my Trailmaster 😍
It is from Melvill and Moon
Was the Grenadier with a Petrol or a Deisel Engine equipped?
It is petrol
@@ExpeditionPortal curious to know if there will be any problems with sourcing petrol on the more northern areas (I do prefer the Petrol version myself I feel)
"End deflector" - tried to find it, no luck. What is it 2 hoses and a pressure gage? Compressor ???? A link to ut would be nice.
Not even one wrench / nuts???
It is called an InDeflate that is used to make airing down and back up more efficient (and easier on the back LOL)
My dream car
great review...I can't wait to get mine
Wow! The Grenadier truly is a very useful vehicle and what a great link! I just followed the Ineos Grenadier to discover that this is a full-fledged expedition channel.
I have a few general queries regarding Camping/Expedition-ing that don’t pertain to the Ineos Grenadier.
1- Would it help to have a commercial or military truck with a large wheel-diameter and a larger ground-clearance for better approach and departure clearances to climb obstacles or descend from them when exploring the Arctic, South America, Africa and Asia, etc.?
2- Would a third axle help with break-over angles, or are the angles such that a third axle would never really be required?
3- I don’t like bikes, so are there options for small three-wheel or four-wheel vehicles that can be carried along? Would these be permitted to operate on the motorways because they might not meet the criteria set for typical vehicles and wouldn’t even have registration tags on them?
4- If large trucks wouldn’t make much of a difference, then, I would like to have a vehicle like the Grenadier tow a Bruder or another expedition trailer, dump it somewhere, and then explore the country in the same towing vehicle. Would these trailers still take on steep gradients or would these tend to even impair the ability of the towing vehicle on steep gradients, in tight turns, and on heavily broken ground? Does one really need the larger expedition trucks in lieu of the towed trailers?
5- Would it make sense to tow a small trailer for locked safety from intruders and then augment the areas or the living space by deploying tents? It also helps to have a vehicle, like the Grenadier, to join the seats to turn them into a bed for emergencies.
6- Would it be a problem to get one of the expedition trucks or the smaller vehicles(with a towed camper) onto a ferry when crossing geographies?
7- Would the spares and service availability be the best for vehicles that are widely used globally, like the Toyota 4Runner? Would Ineos or the others have service or spares issues?
8- Can you park on unused land in countries that don’t have proper parks for expedition vehicles? Where do you park?
9- Nights are pleasant even in the hottest of countries; so if you’re traveling in an air-conditioned vehicle all- day, then you’d just need good sleeping bags for the cold countries. I mean, all it takes, is a tiny lantern to heat up a small tent on some of the highest snow-clad mountains. Would a 600-watt air-conditioner suffice for the bedroom in the largest camper?
10- is carrying a firearm prohibited in most countries? Can you take a handgun, a hunting rifle, an air-gun, or crossbow? What do you do with the firearm if its prohibited in some of the countries that you are traveling through? Deposit and recollect it or have them seal it and then open it, again, at the border?
11- Is it easy to obtain a license to hunt or fish in most countries?
12- From where do you obtain water? Are there public sources? What if you can’t find inhabitants to get the water from? Do you harvest rainwater or find streams, rivers lakes, etc.? Are the streams perennial and marked on the maps? Can you use humidifiers to get water from the atmosphere in countries with a high degree of moisture? How deep would the water-table be in flat, hot and dry countries in the worse case-scenario? Would maps provide such information?
13- How good are the water-filtration systems that you can carry inside your vehicle or that come with the camper? I think, the smallest virus around 20 nano-meters, but sediment should be much larger, so if the filters are good enough to even filter all the sediment, minerals, and chemicals, then perhaps one could boil the water to eradicate the germs? Can you even refill from filthy sources? Can you refill saline sea-water? Do any of these distill?
14- How do you communicate? Is cellular coverage available even in remote and sparsely populated areas? I know Iridium provides Pole-to-Pole coverage, but is quite expensive. Would Inmarsat be good even over land in most regions? What about Musk’s network? What about HF radios and HF-internet? Most of the satellite providers also provide beacons that can track you in an emergency.
Bruh
WTF really ! You just asked all of that.
South Africa is one of the world's leading mining countries, I think quality tools should be available
South Africa also manufacture incredible 4x4 products, trailers, caravans, etc, it's a very advanced industry in the country!
We bought Teng tools in Cape Town. They are good quality
You bring creatine overlanding? That is bold 😂 no wonder you keep the TP and spade under the seat.
Bwahaha, you get used to it 😇
I imagine this will be difficult as you have to carry a lot of fuel or go places where there is a lot of fuel stations as it isn’t very good on fuel late teens I’ve seen
On our configurations (NZ) we have the option of a 3/4 length roof rack
Thanks for the comment. It was made available after we took delivery
Did I miss the First Aid kit?
We do have two. A blow out kit by the driver and a more comprehensive kit in the rear storage bin. Travel meds in the duffel
The Ineos video are hilarious. My Border Collie wouldn't get in on to go in town for a ride.
This is the process I’d follow to design a vehicle.
1- I’d first take a look at the number of people for the typical version to carry.
i- I’d then decide If I need to seat two, three or more people in a single row to decide on the number of rows.
ii- I’d then decide on the comfortable spacing between the people in the same row(so they can move around and don’t feel too cramped at the shoulders and the hips) to arrive at the width of the cabin.
iii- If I can’t comfortably seat the required number of people in the same row without making the vehicle too broad, then I’d move them on to a different row to increase the length of the vehicle. Broad vehicles are more comfortable and stable, provided they don’t encounter issues on narrow roads or in traffic.
iv-I’ll decide on the spacing between the rows for optimal leg-room to decide on the length of the cabin.
v- I’d decide on whether the rear passengers need to be seated in normal rows or in facing rows(like those on the trains(for added leg-room and better social interaction and with perhaps even a table between them). I’d make arrangements for normal rows and then see if the facing rows can also be incorporated into almost the same dimensions and eventually, perhaps, sell the basic model with the normal rows. I’ll make these modifications to the cabin dimensions.
vi- I’ll decide on how the seats will fold to swap people for cargo and vice-versa. I'd see if the seats need to be joined together to sleep people in overnight emergencies? If the people needed place holders for refreshments and snacks or laptops and phone? I would also make allowances for wiring, tables, and place holders inside the car. I’d see if the seats needed to move on rails to increase or decrease leg-room or if they needed to swivel to the sides. I’d account for these dimensions, as well. I’d look at different typical seats---their depth, length, width and height. I’ll factor these into the length, width and height dimensions of the cabin.
vi- I’ll decide on the accessories or the luxuries that people need to carry on themselves to see if any changes need to be made the width or the length.
vii- I’ll decide on the luggage that vehicle needs to carry-the quantity and the individual size of the packages. I’ll make these changes to the cabin dimensions.
viii- I’d decide if the shape needed to be boxy to optimize space, if it needed to be curvaceous or angular to improve aerodynamic efficiency or rainfall- or snow-clearing efficiency or to pander to a particular stylistic palate, or if it needed contours for strength or the aesthetics. I’d use these to modify the dimensions of the cabin.
ix- I’ll also factor the head room, the shoulder room, the equipment room on the console and anything else that might need to be taken into account. Here, I would also take into account the angles through which the driver and other passengers would look out the windows or interact with each other. I would make all of these angles comfortable.. This would give me the length, width, and height of the vehicle’s cabin.
2- I’d then look for an engine to carry this weight and decide on the axles, wheels and gear-boxes to move it.
3- Having arrived at the height, length, width and weight of the cabin, I’d look at how the under-the-belly machinery, the machinery in the engine compartment, and any potential equipment at the back and on top will interact with the passenger compartment to make additional and final changes to the cabin dimensions.
4- I’d then look at the typical role of the vehicle to decide on the ground-clearance, the spacing of the axles(for arrival and departure and angles) and the spacing between the axles for the break-over angle to see if additional changes need to be made to the dimensions of the cabin.
5- I’d then look at the typical wheel-sizes and turning radii to make additional changes. I’ll also leave room to make modifications to the vehicles in terms of wheel sizes and winches. I’ll see if any these need to be reflected in the cabin dimensions.
6- At this stage, I’ll also take a look at the typical speed of the vehicle, the trailer towed, and the terrain to decide on the thickness of steel or other metal girders for the ladder or other frame and also the thickness of the steel for the beams and the plates for the cabin shell, the floor, the roof, the front, the sides, and rear to absorb the shocks from impact with pot-holes, uneven ground, rocks, and scraping with the terrain or other vehicles and also those from impact during serious accidents with the terrain or other vehicles and the falling of the vehicle from great height. You would want the steel to be hard enough to be unscathed with minor impact and to collapse to absorb the shock from major impacts, but you’d want the passenger compartment to neither get crushed with a fall of the vehicle from great heights or from impact with other cars, so you’ll want the inner beams to be strong, but the outer beams and plates to collapse and absorb the shock of the impact. The thickness of the different types of steel or other metal will provide you with the weight of the shell of the vehicle.
7- I’ll then look at the optimal suspension and gearing options. At this stage, I’ll arrive at all under-belly machinery.
8- I’ll leave room for people to modify the suspension to their personal likes---raise or lower it---to add additional fuel tanks, or footrests, or other points.
9- I’ll then go back to the vehicle’s cabin to decide on the final placement of seats, doors, consoles. I’ll also leave room for people to add radios or other things to the console. These would provide me with the final tweaked dimensions for the vehicle’s cabin.
10- I’d then look for the optimal engine(power, torque, turbo or non-turbo, fuel-consumption, and parts and serviceability), gear box(the right gearing for steep ascents and descents, for pulling the trailer, for easily cornering and controlling the vehicle on tough terrain, for overtaking other vehicles on country road and motorways, and for cruising at the optimal economic speed on the highways), transfer case(geared, not chained), differentials(those that don’t break and are easy to replace or repair) , axles(ported or typical(whichever ones are robust, less likely to fail, more infrequently to get replaced, and easily to get replaced), wheel-drums, brakes/discs, fluid lines, etc.
11- I’ll then look at the front and rear bumpers and things I’d want to add to them. Also the side fenders, the room that I need for each individual wheel to have for easy replacement and repairs.
12- I’d see if I need to provide racks/roof on the roof for additional luggage or room for a sunroof, a radio or satellite antenna on the bumper or attached to a fender.
13- I’ll, now, decide on the proper engine horse power, torque and engine response(short, medium or long-stroke engine --keeping the power and efficiency in mind), the gear box with the proper gear ratios(keeping the typical terrain in mind) and the brakes (keeping the typical braking distance, terrain, and temperature in mind and the towed weight in mind).
14- I’d see if I need to leave room for anything to be added to the front bumper---winches or antennas---or the rear-towing contraption and electrical points or other control mechanism for the modulation of the trailer.
15- I’d decide on the range of the vehicle, the typical fuel tank to attain that range and the ability to add additional fuel tanks to enhance the range. I’d also decide on the fuel filtration system and perhaps incorporate a separate, but easily replacement coarse filter next to the tank for foul fuel in poor countries.
16- I’ll see if I need to leave any room for the eventual electrification---an all-electric, a hybrid-electric(primary internal combustion), or a hybrid-internal combustion(primary electric with a backup generator for areas that don’t have charging points). I’ll draw an entirely separate design for a future electric vehicle without losing the primary characteristics of this vehicle.
17- I’ll finally choose the placement of the internal console, the pedals, the seats and the doors, etc., and lend the vehicle out to people who are likely to thoroughly abuse it(enthusiasts) and those who are likely to be its typical customers to incorporate their changes in the final model to reflect the tastes of the typical uses, but make room for the enthusiasts to modify it to make it a mythical being.
Sure you don’t need a Hi-Lift?
As long as they don't produce it, in general, it looks like paid ads. I don't believe in this brand at all. A BMW engine and reliability... what nonsense!
Documents and basic safety gear should be in grab bag in reach of hand from driver position. In case of accident, burning car etc.
Agree, and they are
Still annoyed Ineos jacked the price on these with almost no dealer support to boot
I am sure starting a brand new car company is hard. We are lucky it exists at all.
@@ExpeditionPortal Inviously far from easy, but the ole bait and switch is never a good look. While I can afford to pay for one, I refuse to support bad faith.
The world has turned far more affluent over the years-the wages have risen, whereas the costs of production have dropped-so, you wouldn’t want to give people a vehicle as basic as the Land Cruiser or the Toyota J40 or J70. The vast majority would scoff at the elemental functionality. I suppose you’d want to give them something a tad premium, like the Mercedes E Class or the BMW 3 and 5 series or, at the very least, the Land Rover Discovery.
There no longer is even a market for short wheel-base vehicles because of the rising affluence, so don't offer anything too small or cramped.
If you want to sell your vehicle as a premium and desirable product, then by making it cheap and selling it to the most basic of buyers, you might destroy its brand image as a quality or a desirable product.
I think reliable products are very easy to manufacture. If you keep products simple and functional, you decrease the number of components that can malfunction or fail. Now, if you reduce the number of components, you greatly reduce the costs. This means that the few components that have to go in can be very high quality and reliable.
There is nothing that can’t be engineered to perfection, the only limitation is the cost and the weight.
We buy a Toyota not because it is the fastest, the most comfortable, or the most economical vehicle because we know it wouldn’t break or fail.
Looks are the easiest thing to get right. Fuel economy or speed, whichever you desire, also isn’t difficult to get right. Accident safety isn’t hard either. Comfort is also easy. It’s the reliability that most manufacturers can’t get right, when it should be quite easy.
During the late 1970s and early 1980s, I travelled across deserts(through 50 degrees Celsius or 120 degrees Fahrenheit of scorched earth) and snow-clad mountains(below freezing temperatures at over 13,000ft)-at times with no person in sight and at times through some of the roughest neighborhoods in the world in a Toyota J40 or a J70--certain that the vehicle would never let me down, and it never did. That was the only reason why I bought Toyota, knowing that I could go through the harshest terrain, at any time of the night or the day, without any support services, assured that the vehicle would never breakdown. The vehicle wasn’t powerful, comfortable, fast, or economical, but so reliable that I don’t recall having ever taken it for repairs.
One had a 3.2L non-turbo, low-RPM engine when turbo-engines at the time were plagued with oil leaks, so nothing really could go wrong with it. The gearing was such that even though the engine wasn’t very responsive, you still always had sufficient, though never excessive, power. The stroke was long, so you had tremendous torque . The other had a 4.2L non-turbo petrol engine, so it was very responsive and powerful. None were very high-RPM and the petrol engine wasn’t even very high compression, so the wear was minimal.
The front brakes were disc, but the rear were drum, so if one set of brakes got wet or got damaged with impact, the other performed.
If you look at the early Land Rover: it had a very short wheel-base, with axles placed at the extremities and a very good ground clearance, so naturally very good arrival, departure and break-over angles. With very few components to break or malfunction, it was naturally also very reliable.
These days the preferences have shifted and there are numerous options to choose from, so a car that is very basic might not sell to customers that can get better options for the same or a slightly higher price. But, one could still pitch different models to different markets and provide them with the option to choose engine and other features from the entire range of options available.
Earlier Japanese cars were cheap, but they offered bare and reliably functionality. People preferred them because they were reliable and because they didn’t fall apart to lose their value, so you could get a very good resale price.
German cars were not cheap, but very high-performance, comfortable, though not luxurious, yet very reliable. People preferred them for the blend of reliability and performance and were willing to pay a premium for them.
Rolls Royce was luxury, high-performance, and comfortable, so those who had the money didn’t compromise on anything.
Other cars were very large, luxurious, spacious and comfortable, but quite affordable and cheap, so neither economical nor reliable. People didn’t like them because they were plagued with problems and couldn’t get a decent resale value. Since these also weren’t economical, the prices plummeted every time there was an oil-shock.
Now, with the rising affluence, you don’t want to create a product as basic and rudimentary as the Land Rover or the Toyota J40/J70. You might want makers like Suzuki and Jeep fill that niche, and, yourself, offer a more capable, quality, and differentiated product. You shouldn’t offer bare functionality, like the Land Rover or the J40/J70, but whatever you provide on the vehicle should be so well thought-of, designed, and engineered that it should be close to impossible for it to break.
Fantastic comment with many detailed insights, thank you. Fortunately the new Jimny helps fill your needs above. I personally love the Jimny.
@@ExpeditionPortal I would never even go for a ride in something so cramped and basic as the Jimny. I'd take the Mercedes AMG 6X6 Brabus or the G63 Brabus
✌️🇲🇿
I appreciate all the efforts made for this video, but this is a new brand with an unknown future. Unfortunately, modern society is being driven by consumerism, and marketing dominates over engineering. I don't want to talk about an automatic gearbox on a 'supposedly' serious off-road vehicle (which is nonsensical to me) or about the 'reliability' of a BMW engine under its bonnet... Let time judge us. So far, the Toyota LC 70 series with a 4.5 diesel and manual gearbox is my choice. I will be back to consider the Grenadier in 5 years if it survives as a brand at all.
All fair points, but an automatic will always have a performance advantage in technical terrain due to the torque converter. It is the reason any competitive rock crawler uses an automatic.
Now personally, I love a manual transmission because of the simplicity, the ability to "bump" start, and just the pure joy or rowing my own gears. For the Land Cruiser 78s we drove around the world, they had a manual.
@@ExpeditionPortal You are right in terms of the performance of the automatic gearbox, but on the other hand, simplicity, reliability, and the fact that I can find spare parts for it at the closest farm or human settlement leave no choice for the Grenadier. I cannot imagine when Grenadier will achieve the same level of reliability, affordable spare parts, customization, and simplicity that Toyota achieved decades ago. This is crucial for me because it is necessary for surviving in the harsh Australian environment
This is rich.. get leather seats, then realize it’s too hot, “upgrade” them to cloth, via seat covers😂😂
Or, it was only available with leather seats when we got the vehicle.
This is not affordable suv,
It is all perspective. . .
Big design fault is that big ugly lump on the floor where your left foot is on the right hand drive model lots of sales lost because of this
It does seem to bother some people. I never noticed it and quickly adapted to the slightly taller dead pedal. (I am 6'1") But it is understandable if some people are more affected by it.
Should have gone with a different engine
No, petrol is more available
Exactly. No ULSD in Ethiopia or Djibouti (as well as big swaths of West Africa)
Sorry, I'm not interested.