Yes, this type of SPD dissipates spikes and surge to ground. DC devices designed to mitigate intermittent voltage spikes in a pv system is different than a typical AC surge protection device. Here is an excerpt from LSP: SPDs are applied to electrical systems to provide a discharge path to earth to save those systems’ components from being exposed to the high-voltage transients caused by the direct or indirect effects of lightning or power system anomalies. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Does off-grid solar confuse you? Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com Join our DIY solar community! #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link): amzn.to/2Aj4dX4 If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Solar. Low prices and great warranty, and they can take your entire house offgrid with their new Powerwalls: ts.la/william57509 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My solar equipment recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first): 12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar and Coupon Codes: -Current Connected: SOK, Victron and High Quality Components. Best prices and warranty around: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp -Signature Solar: Cheap Server Rack Batteries and Large Solar Panels: www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Ecoflow Delta Official Site: My favorite plug-n-play solar generator: us.ecoflow.com/?aff=7 -AmpereTime: Cheapest 12V batteries around: amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Rich Solar: Mega site and cheaper prices than renogy! Check them out: richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Shop Solar Kits: Huge site with every solar kit you can imagine! Check it out: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=will-p -Battery Hookup: Cheap cell deals bit.ly/2mIxSqt 10% off code: diysolar -Watts 24/7: Best deals on all-in-one solar power systems, with customer support and distribution here in the USA: watts247.com/?wpam_id=3 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Contact Information: I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers: Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :) DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
That's Beautiful Will thank you for showing us this I buy items from good brands based on your recommendations using your affiliate links. Keep up the good work! You're a real friend. 🙂
Can this type of SPD be used with panels on inverters that specify that only "ungrounded panels" should be connected to it? (Not sure exactly what they are referring to) Could you do a video explaining this? I thought it was always a good practice to have everything grounded. Keep up the good work 👍🏼
@@MattiasNordenmark of course you have to connect your ungrounded panel ground to the ground ;-) underground panels mean neither the positive or negative connection of the panel are connect to the ground of the panel. but you still have to connect the panel ground to your ground
Surge protection devices do indeed work automatically but the still need to be inspected regularly. They degrade with use and if there have been spikes they give you that lovely automatic and transparent protection right up until the point when they don't and the next spike does something expensive to your upstream equipment! When the green flashes show red it's time to replace them.
As an electrician I would just like to add that this kind of hook up makes troubleshooting much more pleasant and efficient. No you don’t have to use this you can just splice together anywhere you want as long as it stays together, but when you have to troubleshoot a problem you will appreciate this splice box. Oh, don’t forget to label your wires, and be logical.
george, i am about to hook up 8 twelve volt batteries to a 24 volt panel system.8 24 volt panels. Do you think it would be ok to run them into the all in one lv2424 as sets of two batteries being supplied by two 24 volt panels instead of a set of 8 batteries connected in series and parallel as one big set of amperage from the full set to the full set of batteries. I was thinking my simpler method of sets of two 12 volt batteries and 2 panels may help isolate problems and make the battery system wiring user friendly for beginners (ME)
VOLTAGE = CURRENT X RESISTANCE This is the golden rule of electricity! It always applies. You can always solve for one unknown. There are specific reasons for hooking things up SERIES/PARALLEL. Wil Prouse Is extremely knowledgeable about PV systems, and you should buy his book if you don’t already have it. You will be limited by the equipment you have as to how to hook it up. The advantage I see on using the splice box is that you can isolate the circuit (whether it goes to the panel or the battery) by opening or closing a circuit breaker or fuse. This is not just convenient when you’re troubleshooting, but it’s a real safety benefit , when you’re doing routine maintenance. Whether you have 2 strings or 4 strings, you can isolate all the strings except the one you are testing. By doing this regularly and recording results, you will be able to detect problems early. If you have a bad connection or a Bad panel or battery, they will show up: REDUCED OUTPUT. If you can’t easily isolate the strings, you will have to manually break and make connections and test your results. I have worked in DATA CENTERS, which are extremely complicated. Try to keep your system SIMPLE. Over time, all systems degrade. If all your batteries and all your panels are the same brand/model and purchased at the same time, you should see similar degradation. Statistically the more batteries and panels you have, The higher the probability of problems or failure.
@@georgekane1985 I appreciate your knowledgeable expertise. Would you recommend a combiner box for 4 x 100 watt 12v panels to a 30 amp mppt charge controller charging 2 100ah 12 batteries? I realize it is pretty small system.
Thanks for the informative advice. @2:00 I just opened my small PV combiner box the same as in the vid and low and behold loose wires. Now thanks to you Will Not so loose wires😀
Sorry, Will, I got a little bit caught up in my first comment that I forgot to thank you for this and all of your other great videos. I am happy that you are back to making more of them more often.
Thanks so much for making this video. I’m currently building an all in one system with the LV6548 and I literally just bought the 4/2 combiner box yesterday. Very helpful. Thanks again.
Informative as always. When I first started out building my system on my channel I learned a lot from you. I continue to watch and subscribe. Thank you!
Just picked up a 6-1 combiner from watts 24x7- this thing feels rock solid- $238 shipped during Black Friday pricing. Glad I spent the extra $100 on this over plastic Amazon offerings- this thing is very confidence inspiring and will leave room to grow- currently getting pets together for my first 2,100 watt system.
I bought a WATTS 24/7 Combiner Box after seeing it on this video. GREAT product. Easy to install, professionally constructed and great support. Thanks for the recommendation - it sure made my life easier
Good job Will The Watts247 panel combiner box looks excellent and I'm guessing is based on a European circuit panel design. The weatherproof housing electrical enclosure is a great idea.
This is the sort of project that I just have to jump in a do it. Hands on learner. Like when I built my first computer, my brain couldn't manage it until I had the components in hand... lol
Thank you Will for the review, I just ordered the 4 × 1 Box from your affiliate link, I actually bought that Eco Worthy unit from Amazon, Have not used it yet but have had it too long to return it, I'm afraid to use it for fear of burning the house down now after seeing that review on it. Another waste of a $165
It's just a different style than before pwm is what it used to be called or pulse wave modulation and mppt . One is supposedly better but two mppt controllers outback brand have stopped working in the last 10 years but the old pwm charge controllers are still going 30 years later on a shed out back.
What are you talking about? Obviously you don't know. Nothing has morphed into anything and if you would take the time to do some research about the different types of chargers, you might not make such uninformed statements making you look stupid and giving me the pleasure of setting you straight before you embarace yourself doing it again.
@@fisherus Perhaps he MIGHT come across not as informed as you wud want him to be, but YOU definitely are condescending and come across as an Ashole with major anger issues. There was no need to bash. You should look within and ask yourself why you can not communicate logically without all those negative emotions. I wonder how many ppl. you owe an apology to just this week alone!
Actually I just prefer doing it myself Midnite combiner box Midnite charge controller in the battery Bank period before I started with solar I watch Will's videos for about 4 months. Then I built my whole house system.
Will - The Eco-Worthy PV Combiner on Amazon is GREAT Unit and a great price. Please REVIEW it before calling it “bad”. I got the 4 String unit for my Boat and at $109. it’s just as good as what your showing there. With an extra 5 min work and and checking ALL their pre made connections it’s the PERFECT solution at a great price
Yeah they work very well I used bigger fuses than it came with and switched to slightly larger silicone wires inside just to be safe I didn't go over it's amp rating but better safe than burnt.
@@masklessninja I emailed them and asked if they would ship the unit with 15A fuses. They didn't say if they could do that, but they did write that if they were replaced it would void the warranty. Not a good sign imo, especially considering how overpriced the boxes are.
Did the unit you received have a gasket around all four sides of the door? In one review I saw the unit that was being looked at only had a gasket around three of the sides and so wasn't properly water proof!
@@pedalpusher2008 yes 100% water resistant on all 4 sides had the stripping ALSO the customer support from Eco-Worthy is phenomenal,,,, these guys reply fast and answer dumb questions and even offer discounts on repeated purchases
Hey how are you my man. I haven’t watched a video from you in a while. Trust you have been doing well. I run a charity in the U.K. I’m glad in eventually understand KWH and That has changed everything 😃😃😂😂😂 Yes for you it all makes sense but for us it’s not Thats easy. 😀
Hi, good video. Can you make a video on an off-grid system (battery + generator) that uses microinverters on solar PV? What are the advantages and disadvantages?
Hi Will, Your videos are terrific. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experiences. Really liked your "I'm Burned Out" video. You should do more like that. Want to hear more about your hobbies and stuff. Why not give us a tour of Vegas? Where do you hang out? Mount the camera to your bike and go for a ride. Let's meet your friends. Take a break from the technical and let us see what Will does for fun.
So the one question I never see answered on any videos or articles I've found on PV combiner boxes is whether or not inputs can come from solar arrays with different wattages. For instance an array of 100W panels and 200W panels. Cleary you do not want these tied together in series or parallel due to the power loss from the different wattages and people always talk about how you "never want to do this." Yet none of those same people mention a PV Combiner as a solution. What am I missing, as in my opinion I dont see any reason why a PV combiner box can't be used to join the outputs of different wattage panels yet nowhere have I found anyone talking about this as being a solution for just that.
Will would be upset visiting where i work, its cut and paste engineering paired with unskilled labor and ran by fresh out of college prep interships as leadership. Its a real mess in motion but they are a 20 billion dollar company, its hard to digest but they design and make these fancy electrical componets and highly priced electrical systems that will shows here for mere pennies.
Been using the cheap ones from Amazon the exact one that you showed lol no issues with them at all had a friend who builds very large systems and he thought that they were good for the price. The friend has a 10kw system on his own house all self installed and does large and small systems for people.
Will you know the 280ah cells - they have new ones 320ah now - just built a pack for my RV with a blue tooth 120amp BMS - then this morning I find they manufacturing a 420ah cell that's just 7mm thicker - think they are the way forward for RV's and power walls - love your channel
For the most part, I rarely understand anything that you say, but you are obviously quite knowledgeable about Solar Power. I have done some research, and decided that a Bifacial Solar Panel was my best option. 400 watt , It’s going on top of a 1996 Chevy Astro Van. As I am Retired, I need to work with what I have. Yes, I will be living in the Van full time, and traveling as much as I can afford. I can not afford half a dozen $1,000 batteries. So what would you suggest ? Also I will be needing an Inverter, and a couple of other things I have heard you mention. I would much rather have too much, and not need it, Than to need it, And not have it. Thank you in advance for your advice, Respectfully, Tom Vickers
if you have paralells, mostlikely DC coupling. and all component must be at DC rated respective of the V will run on the system (but go higher V won't hurt) Anyway good ones.
I assume you would want homogenous strings (made of identical panels) to correctly optimize with the MPPT inverter best or you won't have per string optimized operation. Maybe that is fundamentally already understood when you begin talking about "parallel string" operations, but just wanted to highlight this if folks thought they could just randomly combine different count/brand panel strings. I think individualized MPPT converters per string make much more sense there in those non-homogenous setups?
I’m shocked at what’s in there. You make it look easy though. I have an all in one box at the moment, but I will build another system. Maybe using wind, as I am in Wales U.K.
off grid cabin with a 48v system. I'm going to buy a 4 string combiner box. My question is can each string consist of different panels. Example: first string has 4 -200w panels in series(total 800w) and the 2nd string has 2-300w panels is series ( total 600w)
Blocking diodes. I'll have to research this more. Most late model panels already have them built in, yes? Isnt that standard/mandatory these days? So the diodes in the combiner boxes are an extra protection should the panel ones fail? Which would make sense. Is there a scenario where, if the panel diodes are in tact, theres still a chance of backflow, and the combiner box diodes prevent it? Again..I'll do more research, as I'm close to upgrading to 4 or 6 panels from just my single one right now.
Oh you are thinking of bypass diodes. Those exist in the junction boxes of the panel. Blocking diodes are different. They are in series configuration with the cells. Not parallel like bypass diodes. Bypass is for shading. Blocking is to prevent discharge of battery through panels. Most charge controllers have a feature that reduce the need for blocking diodes. I like them for using multiple arrays that are angled differently. That way one array won't bring down the other arrays if it is not angled the same. Great for step roofs with panels mounted on opposite sides.
It looks nice, the only thing missing is the brains: I'd like it to report to me on health, performance of each string, and alert me to any anomalies on any string, especially if a risk of fire, electrocution, etc. exists is sensed any where in the systems. Even better would be integration with a home automation system like Home Assistant, which can collect metrics and provide dashboard widgets, sms text or email alerts, etc. and do all of it locally with no requirements for cloud storage costs or security risks.
I'm lost on the talk of Parallel connections. Most videos show multiple "Series Strings" being run to a combiner box. One series sting per connection, that is why a 15 AMP fuse will work here. Are the "Parallel" connection where all the hot wires come together on the BUS Bar? Thanks, Joe
If you were putting panels on a better positioned outbuilding, and running the power back to a house, where is the combiner best positioned relative to the DC to AC transformer? If you had multiple arrays, how do combiners interact? This is why I'm not allowed to operate anything more complicated than a toaster.
It is actually annoying that they are now making all of these combiner boxes with fuses for both the positive and the negative lines when the fuses are overcurrent devices and only electrically need to be on one side of the circuit. Either positive or negative but not both. The fuse holders also should not be used to break the circuit under load because they don't quench the arc so if the breaker has to be flipped first it really makes no sense to have positive and negative fuse holders. It adds more failure points and a greater potential for a problem down the road. Also, if you get any combiner box make sure you have backups for every component in them because all it takes is one lightning strike nearby even a quarter-mile away and you might have to replace surge suppressors and fuses.
15 A fuses on a 1 kW string means 67 V, no? So do you bump up the fuse for 48 V systems, lower the power or increase the volts? Or am I just missing something?
Is there something like a combiner box that works in reverse, one PV voltage source in and multiple parallel sources out? Thought process here, i'm using all in one standalone solutions with their expandable batteries. So I have several areas that I could use PV to decrease grid reliance. If I could have the array go into a combiner and one cable carry that to a distribution system for the PV voltage that would make design easier.
Sorry newbie question. Do the outputs of the panels of each individual string need to be the same? For example one string with 200w panels and the other string with 300w or volts and amps.
Is there a type of "combiner box" available that can primarily utilize power from solar panels (when sunlight is available) and supplement its output with grid power (as a secondary source) only when the solar current is insufficient to meet the required output?
In fact a MC4 multiplier with a MC4 fuse and a MC4 diode makes the same for a really lower price and 0 place taken. Only disavantage : when there is a problem it needs to go on the roof (but it happens 1 time every 10 or 20 years). No box for me.
I have 4 inverters, 4 PV array strings. Should I feed 4 solar string separately to 4 inverters or I have to combine them first with a PV combiner box then split them out to 4 and feed to inverters?
You do not need to fuse the negative side of the PV arrays, only the positive sides. Not sure why your box has fuses on the negative sides. The negative sides can be used for ammeters and shunts.
I use 3 x 230W panels in parallel because in series the voltage is too high. Each panel is about 6A. Do I need any current protection? So far I used MCA splitters and that’s it.
Hi Will, thanks for your videos, they are very helpful. I have (20) 400 watt 48v solar panels that will feed into two eg4 6000xp all in one's. I plan on having two feeds, one to each AIOs. So, 10 panels per AIO unit. I was planning on having four series strings of five panels. Two series strings will be connected in parallel for each AIO unit. My question is: should I use a combiner box to combine the two series strings in parallel? This way each AIO will have 250 volts and 4000 watts. Any other suggestions?
Will, I'm in the UK, I have the standard 12 panels on my almost South facing roof, which are connected in two sets via 4 cables to my Growatt inverter's two inputs, I live in Scotland and in the evening I get maybe an hour or so of sunlight directly onto the west face of my house but not onto the roof panels, could I use a Combiner box to add some panels to the West face combining it with one of the pairs that currently goes straight into the inverter? I would probably only be able to fit a max of 3 panels on the front of the house.
I got a 4x200w (sold as 24v by rich solar) panel array and I got a Ecoworthy 6 string PV combiner box to possibly add more panels. Got a PIP2024 all in one unit. Can I just connect all in parallel on that box to make my 24v system? Do I need to change the cables coming into the bus or regular solar cables will handle?
So, do you mean to joint the parallel connection through this box, rather than connecting the panels in parallel together before plugging into this box. For example, 1 panel is rated for 8.87A So, if I joint 5 panels together, that would add up to 44.35A. And you mentioned that each fuse is only 15A. Which is not enough for the parallel string.
do they make these for battery banks? or can this be used for a battery bank like say you have 16 12 v batteries connecting them in parallel and series to make 4 48v batteries?
Yes, this type of SPD dissipates spikes and surge to ground. DC devices designed to mitigate intermittent voltage spikes in a pv system is different than a typical AC surge protection device.
Here is an excerpt from LSP:
SPDs are applied to electrical systems to provide a discharge path to earth to save those systems’ components from being exposed to the high-voltage transients caused by the direct or indirect effects of lightning or power system anomalies.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Does off-grid solar confuse you? Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com
Join our DIY solar community! #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com
Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link):
amzn.to/2Aj4dX4
If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Solar. Low prices and great warranty, and they can take your entire house offgrid with their new Powerwalls: ts.la/william57509
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My solar equipment recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first):
12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html
Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html
Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html
Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html
DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html
Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar and Coupon Codes:
-Current Connected: SOK, Victron and High Quality Components. Best prices and warranty around: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp
-Signature Solar: Cheap Server Rack Batteries and Large Solar Panels:
www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Ecoflow Delta Official Site: My favorite plug-n-play solar generator:
us.ecoflow.com/?aff=7
-AmpereTime: Cheapest 12V batteries around:
amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Rich Solar: Mega site and cheaper prices than renogy! Check them out:
richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Shop Solar Kits: Huge site with every solar kit you can imagine! Check it out:
shopsolarkits.com/?ref=will-p
-Battery Hookup: Cheap cell deals
bit.ly/2mIxSqt
10% off code: diysolar
-Watts 24/7: Best deals on all-in-one solar power systems, with customer support and distribution here in the USA:
watts247.com/?wpam_id=3
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Contact Information:
I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com
Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar
FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:
Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :)
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program,
An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
That's Beautiful Will
thank you for showing us this
I buy items from good brands
based on your recommendations
using your affiliate links.
Keep up the good work!
You're a real friend. 🙂
Can this type of SPD be used with panels on inverters that specify that only "ungrounded panels" should be connected to it? (Not sure exactly what they are referring to)
Could you do a video explaining this? I thought it was always a good practice to have everything grounded.
Keep up the good work 👍🏼
@@MattiasNordenmark of course you have to connect your ungrounded panel ground to the ground ;-) underground panels mean neither the positive or negative connection of the panel are connect to the ground of the panel. but you still have to connect the panel ground to your ground
Can I get away with using just 1 of those for 2 separate system's a 12 volt and a 48 volt system?
Surge protection devices do indeed work automatically but the still need to be inspected regularly.
They degrade with use and if there have been spikes they give you that lovely automatic and transparent protection right up until the point when they don't and the next spike does something expensive to your upstream equipment!
When the green flashes show red it's time to replace them.
As an electrician I would just like to add that this kind of hook up makes troubleshooting much more pleasant and efficient. No you don’t have to use this you can just splice together anywhere you want as long as it stays together, but when you have to troubleshoot a problem you will appreciate this splice box. Oh, don’t forget to label your wires, and be logical.
george, i am about to hook up 8 twelve volt batteries to a 24 volt panel system.8 24 volt panels. Do you think it would be ok to run them into the all in one lv2424 as sets of two batteries being supplied by two 24 volt panels instead of a set of 8 batteries connected in series and parallel as one big set of amperage from the full set to the full set of batteries. I was thinking my simpler method of sets of two 12 volt batteries and 2 panels may help isolate problems and make the battery system wiring user friendly for beginners (ME)
VOLTAGE = CURRENT X RESISTANCE
This is the golden rule of electricity! It always applies. You can always solve for one unknown. There are specific reasons for hooking things up SERIES/PARALLEL. Wil Prouse Is extremely knowledgeable about PV systems, and you should buy his book if you don’t already have it. You will be limited by the equipment you have as to how to hook it up. The advantage I see on using the splice box is that you can isolate the circuit (whether it goes to the panel or the battery) by opening or closing a circuit breaker or fuse. This is not just convenient when you’re troubleshooting, but it’s a real safety benefit , when you’re doing routine maintenance. Whether you have 2 strings or 4 strings, you can isolate all the strings except the one you are testing. By doing this regularly and recording results, you will be able to detect problems early. If you have a bad connection or a Bad panel or battery, they will show up: REDUCED OUTPUT. If you can’t easily isolate the strings, you will have to manually break and make connections and test your results. I have worked in DATA CENTERS, which are extremely complicated. Try to keep your system SIMPLE. Over time, all systems degrade. If all your batteries and all your panels are the same brand/model and purchased at the same time, you should see similar degradation. Statistically the more batteries and panels you have, The higher the probability of problems or failure.
@@georgekane1985 I appreciate your knowledgeable expertise. Would you recommend a combiner box for 4 x 100 watt 12v panels to a 30 amp mppt charge controller charging 2 100ah 12 batteries? I realize it is pretty small system.
@@mangeload I would recommend it. The additional cost is quite modest.
TY George Kane
Thanks for the informative advice. @2:00 I just opened my small PV combiner box the same as in the vid and low and behold loose wires. Now thanks to you Will Not so loose wires😀
Sorry, Will, I got a little bit caught up in my first comment that I forgot to thank you for this and all of your other great videos. I am happy that you are back to making more of them more often.
Free knowledge from a pro. Doesn't get better than that.
Thanks so much for making this video. I’m currently building an all in one system with the LV6548 and I literally just bought the 4/2 combiner box yesterday. Very helpful. Thanks again.
you are a lucky man!
You're encouraging me to go DIY and build a complete system myself. All your "how to" guides are priceless, Will 👍
Thanks again Will for demystifying all of this stuff for us. You're awesome!
I'm designing my first solar panel array for a course and this video is amazing :D
Thanks again, Will. I'm a little late getting to this stage in our PV system. I just ordered that 6 lead combiner box from Watts 24/7. It'll be great.
Thats simple ... thanks for the quick and easy explanation!
Informative as always. When I first started out building my system on my channel I learned a lot from you. I continue to watch and subscribe. Thank you!
Just picked up a 6-1 combiner from watts 24x7- this thing feels rock solid- $238 shipped during Black Friday pricing. Glad I spent the extra $100 on this over plastic Amazon offerings- this thing is very confidence inspiring and will leave room to grow- currently getting pets together for my first 2,100 watt system.
I bought a WATTS 24/7 Combiner Box after seeing it on this video. GREAT product. Easy to install, professionally constructed and great support. Thanks for the recommendation - it sure made my life easier
You produce the best solar content out of anyone. I wish I could have you over and help me diagnose my set up. 😂
As Will is smart in many areas. I get it
Good job Will
The Watts247 panel combiner box looks excellent and I'm guessing is based on a European circuit panel design.
The weatherproof housing electrical enclosure is a great idea.
Cool video =)
I just started solar, and you read my mind, and broke it down. Thanks.
This is the sort of project that I just have to jump in a do it. Hands on learner. Like when I built my first computer, my brain couldn't manage it until I had the components in hand... lol
Thank you Will for the review, I just ordered the 4 × 1 Box from your affiliate link, I actually bought that Eco Worthy unit from Amazon, Have not used it yet but have had it too long to return it, I'm afraid to use it for fear of burning the house down now after seeing that review on it. Another waste of a $165
Never looked into PV combiner boxes before, really cool!
This video is exactly what i needed! Thank you!
Such a wonderful video. Thanks for all the information across all your videos, it's a real service.
I find it interesting that a solar charge controller name has morphed to MPPT (maximum power point tracking). Great vid as always.
It's just a different style than before pwm is what it used to be called or pulse wave modulation and mppt . One is supposedly better but two mppt controllers outback brand have stopped working in the last 10 years but the old pwm charge controllers are still going 30 years later on a shed out back.
What are you talking about? Obviously you don't know. Nothing has morphed into anything and if you would take the time to do some research about the different types of chargers, you might not make such uninformed statements making you look stupid and giving me the pleasure of setting you straight before you embarace yourself doing it again.
@@fisherus Perhaps he MIGHT come across not as informed as you wud want him to be, but YOU definitely are condescending and come across as an Ashole with major anger issues. There was no need to bash. You should look within and ask yourself why you can not communicate logically without all those negative emotions. I wonder how many ppl. you owe an apology to just this week alone!
This is a really useful video. It's something I had not yet considered for my solar power installation. Thanks Will.
Actually I just prefer doing it myself Midnite combiner box Midnite charge controller in the battery Bank period before I started with solar I watch Will's videos for about 4 months. Then I built my whole house system.
Midnite stuff holding up well?
@@rosskstar works great no problems
Will - The Eco-Worthy PV Combiner on Amazon is GREAT Unit and a great price.
Please REVIEW it before calling it “bad”. I got the 4 String unit for my Boat and at $109. it’s just as good as what your showing there. With an extra 5 min work and and checking ALL their pre made connections it’s the PERFECT solution at a great price
Oh wow that's great to hear. I saw the soldered connections on hightec labs video and avoided it like the plague. Glad to hear yours works well!!
Yeah they work very well I used bigger fuses than it came with and switched to slightly larger silicone wires inside just to be safe I didn't go over it's amp rating but better safe than burnt.
@@masklessninja I emailed them and asked if they would ship the unit with 15A fuses. They didn't say if they could do that, but they did write that if they were replaced it would void the warranty. Not a good sign imo, especially considering how overpriced the boxes are.
Did the unit you received have a gasket around all four sides of the door? In one review I saw the unit that was being looked at only had a gasket around three of the sides and so wasn't properly water proof!
@@pedalpusher2008 yes 100% water resistant on all 4 sides had the stripping
ALSO the customer support from Eco-Worthy is phenomenal,,,, these guys reply fast and answer dumb questions and even offer discounts on repeated purchases
Approaching 500K Subs!
Hey how are you my man. I haven’t watched a video from you in a while. Trust you have been doing well. I run a charity in the U.K. I’m glad in eventually understand KWH and That has changed everything 😃😃😂😂😂
Yes for you it all makes sense but for us it’s not Thats easy. 😀
Hi, good video. Can you make a video on an off-grid system (battery + generator) that uses microinverters on solar PV? What are the advantages and disadvantages?
Very nice combination PV box.
I fully understand the apprehension some have for all things electrical. But as a professional panel builder that looks elementary at most. 😊
I had forgotten all about these jewels... A thread on the forums just reminded me just when I was about to look into combiner boxes. A premonition?
They are really nice pieces of hardware. Makes array wiring a breeze
Could you attach Solar on one side, then a Wind Turbine on the other?
Wow, you made a good vid at the right time.. i just search for this thingy box for my first solar project.. tq !
Hi Will, Your videos are terrific. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experiences. Really liked your "I'm Burned Out" video. You should do more like that. Want to hear more about your hobbies and stuff. Why not give us a tour of Vegas? Where do you hang out? Mount the camera to your bike and go for a ride. Let's meet your friends. Take a break from the technical and let us see what Will does for fun.
Video has been up for 36 minutes and has 5 dislikes. Those carbon people took Wills comments to heart. 😂😂
Make you think it’s automatically done by someone
answered my question.. i have one array of 1600 watts 24 volt system, I dont need one unless I add another array.
Excellent information, thank you very much.
So the one question I never see answered on any videos or articles I've found on PV combiner boxes is whether or not inputs can come from solar arrays with different wattages. For instance an array of 100W panels and 200W panels. Cleary you do not want these tied together in series or parallel due to the power loss from the different wattages and people always talk about how you "never want to do this." Yet none of those same people mention a PV Combiner as a solution. What am I missing, as in my opinion I dont see any reason why a PV combiner box can't be used to join the outputs of different wattage panels yet nowhere have I found anyone talking about this as being a solution for just that.
I know a contractor who told me that the combiner box does solve that issue and you can be used for that purpose
@@shonduarkeem1247 Thanks for your response, I really appreciate it.
Will would be upset visiting where i work, its cut and paste engineering paired with unskilled labor and ran by fresh out of college prep interships as leadership. Its a real mess in motion but they are a 20 billion dollar company, its hard to digest but they design and make these fancy electrical componets and highly priced electrical systems that will shows here for mere pennies.
Great product and review mate
HOWdy DIYPwW-P, ...
Thanks for the instruction / review on COMBINER BOXES
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Nice video 🖖 cool boxes, managing the cable stuff much better and cleaner 😊
You should mention the surge protector device specifications and reliable brands in the market
Been using the cheap ones from Amazon the exact one that you showed lol no issues with them at all had a friend who builds very large systems and he thought that they were good for the price. The friend has a 10kw system on his own house all self installed and does large and small systems for people.
Will you know the 280ah cells - they have new ones 320ah now - just built a pack for my RV with a blue tooth 120amp BMS - then this morning I find they manufacturing a 420ah cell that's just 7mm thicker - think they are the way forward for RV's and power walls - love your channel
Thanks for the video. How are the string input terminal blocks electrically connected to the output breaker blocks?
For the most part, I rarely understand anything that you say, but you are obviously quite knowledgeable about Solar Power. I have done some research, and decided that a Bifacial Solar Panel was my best option. 400 watt , It’s going on top of a 1996 Chevy Astro Van. As I am Retired, I need to work with what I have. Yes, I will be living in the Van full time, and traveling as much as I can afford. I can not afford half a dozen $1,000 batteries. So what would you suggest ? Also I will be needing an Inverter, and a couple of other things I have heard you mention. I would much rather have too much, and not need it, Than to need it, And not have it. Thank you in advance for your advice, Respectfully, Tom Vickers
1:01. Very GOOD. SPEAK.
if you have paralells, mostlikely DC coupling.
and all component must be at DC rated respective of the V will run on the system (but go higher V won't hurt)
Anyway good ones.
I assume you would want homogenous strings (made of identical panels) to correctly optimize with the MPPT inverter best or you won't have per string optimized operation. Maybe that is fundamentally already understood when you begin talking about "parallel string" operations, but just wanted to highlight this if folks thought they could just randomly combine different count/brand panel strings. I think individualized MPPT converters per string make much more sense there in those non-homogenous setups?
I’m shocked at what’s in there. You make it look easy though. I have an all in one box at the moment, but I will build another system. Maybe using wind, as I am in Wales U.K.
Make sure everything is UL listed to pass inspection. Many of those DIN rail units are NOT UL listed.
off grid cabin with a 48v system. I'm going to buy a 4 string combiner box. My question is can each string consist of different panels. Example: first string has 4 -200w panels in series(total 800w) and the 2nd string has 2-300w panels is series ( total 600w)
Blocking diodes. I'll have to research this more. Most late model panels already have them built in, yes? Isnt that standard/mandatory these days? So the diodes in the combiner boxes are an extra protection should the panel ones fail? Which would make sense. Is there a scenario where, if the panel diodes are in tact, theres still a chance of backflow, and the combiner box diodes prevent it? Again..I'll do more research, as I'm close to upgrading to 4 or 6 panels from just my single one right now.
Oh you are thinking of bypass diodes. Those exist in the junction boxes of the panel. Blocking diodes are different. They are in series configuration with the cells. Not parallel like bypass diodes. Bypass is for shading. Blocking is to prevent discharge of battery through panels. Most charge controllers have a feature that reduce the need for blocking diodes. I like them for using multiple arrays that are angled differently. That way one array won't bring down the other arrays if it is not angled the same. Great for step roofs with panels mounted on opposite sides.
@@WillProwse ok! Gotcha. Thanks Will. That helps.
@@WillProwse
Nice
Excellent i will be ordering one of them.
Nice job!
Dude! Awesome thank you.
It looks nice, the only thing missing is the brains: I'd like it to report to me on health, performance of each string, and alert me to any anomalies on any string, especially if a risk of fire, electrocution, etc. exists is sensed any where in the systems. Even better would be integration with a home automation system like Home Assistant, which can collect metrics and provide dashboard widgets, sms text or email alerts, etc. and do all of it locally with no requirements for cloud storage costs or security risks.
Then develop it and sell it.
I'm lost on the talk of Parallel connections. Most videos show multiple "Series Strings" being run to a combiner box. One series sting per connection, that is why a 15 AMP fuse will work here.
Are the "Parallel" connection where all the hot wires come together on the BUS Bar?
Thanks,
Joe
If you were putting panels on a better positioned outbuilding, and running the power back to a house, where is the combiner best positioned relative to the DC to AC transformer? If you had multiple arrays, how do combiners interact? This is why I'm not allowed to operate anything more complicated than a toaster.
Usually at the panels tbh
As for the second I'd assume you'd try and get it near one of the panel arrays
Great video! Very informative and new, for me. Thanks!
It is actually annoying that they are now making all of these combiner boxes with fuses for both the positive and the negative lines when the fuses are overcurrent devices and only electrically need to be on one side of the circuit. Either positive or negative but not both. The fuse holders also should not be used to break the circuit under load because they don't quench the arc so if the breaker has to be flipped first it really makes no sense to have positive and negative fuse holders. It adds more failure points and a greater potential for a problem down the road. Also, if you get any combiner box make sure you have backups for every component in them because all it takes is one lightning strike nearby even a quarter-mile away and you might have to replace surge suppressors and fuses.
15 A fuses on a 1 kW string means 67 V, no? So do you bump up the fuse for 48 V systems, lower the power or increase the volts? Or am I just missing something?
Will do you have a video showing how to use or wire twin or stacked inverters
Great video thanks... Can you hook up 6 solar panels into the small combiner box?
Hello Will? It's God. I'm building my first solar system and have some questions--do you have a few minutes?
Another great video. On another subject, have you tested any small grid tied micro inverters. I was interested in something between 200 watts to 1 kw.
useful information do you have the schematic diagram thank you
Is there something like a combiner box that works in reverse, one PV voltage source in and multiple parallel sources out? Thought process here, i'm using all in one standalone solutions with their expandable batteries. So I have several areas that I could use PV to decrease grid reliance. If I could have the array go into a combiner and one cable carry that to a distribution system for the PV voltage that would make design easier.
Why use disposable breakers ? Moreover surge protection is connected as last element, so diodes are not protected for a surge
Sorry newbie question. Do the outputs of the panels of each individual string need to be the same? For example one string with 200w panels and the other string with 300w or volts and amps.
They should pre-install mc4 inputs
Yes agreed. Good point
nice job!
Thank you sir, it available in the Philippines?
What are the key differences between standard combiner boxes and combiner boxes for a microinverter system?
Is there a type of "combiner box" available that can primarily utilize power from solar panels (when sunlight is available) and supplement its output with grid power (as a secondary source) only when the solar current is insufficient to meet the required output?
In fact a MC4 multiplier with a MC4 fuse and a MC4 diode makes the same for a really lower price and 0 place taken. Only disavantage : when there is a problem it needs to go on the roof (but it happens 1 time every 10 or 20 years). No box for me.
I have 4 inverters, 4 PV array strings. Should I feed 4 solar string separately to 4 inverters or I have to combine them first with a PV combiner box then split them out to 4 and feed to inverters?
Has anyone ever told you, you look like Matt Noveskey from the alternative rock band Blue October? 🎸 🎶
A Diode just allows energy to flow in a single direction. You can burn out a Solar panel if the power back feeds high voltages to the panel.
It's backfeed at night from battery. The fuses are for individual string over current. Not the diode.
Wait high voltage from another string right? Not sure what you mean exactly
You do not need to fuse the negative side of the PV arrays, only the positive sides.
Not sure why your box has fuses on the negative sides.
The negative sides can be used for ammeters and shunts.
How are those diode for protection connected to the curcuit? And what is the diode spec?
I use 3 x 230W panels in parallel because in series the voltage is too high.
Each panel is about 6A.
Do I need any current protection?
So far I used MCA splitters and that’s it.
Very nice.
Can you do a review of the Bluetti AC30?
Thanks man
hey great videos can you make a video or help me to connect an enphase 3 controller 8 k watts solar system connected to the grid.
Do I have to setup the battery bank, 12v, 24, or 48v, according to the panels connection, series/ parallel in the combiner box?
Hi Will, thanks for your videos, they are very helpful. I have (20) 400 watt 48v solar panels that will feed into two eg4 6000xp all in one's. I plan on having two feeds, one to each AIOs. So, 10 panels per AIO unit. I was planning on having four series strings of five panels. Two series strings will be connected in parallel for each AIO unit. My question is: should I use a combiner box to combine the two series strings in parallel? This way each AIO will have 250 volts and 4000 watts. Any other suggestions?
Parallel modules: diodes or fuses? Do both get hot? (E.g. 15A fuse at 12A continues load)
Will, I'm in the UK, I have the standard 12 panels on my almost South facing roof, which are connected in two sets via 4 cables to my Growatt inverter's two inputs, I live in Scotland and in the evening I get maybe an hour or so of sunlight directly onto the west face of my house but not onto the roof panels, could I use a Combiner box to add some panels to the West face combining it with one of the pairs that currently goes straight into the inverter? I would probably only be able to fit a max of 3 panels on the front of the house.
So the wood box on amazon with glued in breaks aren’t that great . Lol
I have three panels at 330. I bought a 12 size wire, 50' of gray, for the combiner to the charge controller. You think I should get something thicker?
Not gonna lie, was scared as hell to get one of these before seeing your video lol
I got a 4x200w (sold as 24v by rich solar) panel array and I got a Ecoworthy 6 string PV combiner box to possibly add more panels. Got a PIP2024 all in one unit. Can I just connect all in parallel on that box to make my 24v system? Do I need to change the cables coming into the bus or regular solar cables will handle?
So, do you mean to joint the parallel connection through this box, rather than connecting the panels in parallel together before plugging into this box.
For example, 1 panel is rated for 8.87A
So, if I joint 5 panels together, that would add up to 44.35A.
And you mentioned that each fuse is only 15A. Which is not enough for the parallel string.
I have 4 100W array. Can it go from the final panel direct to the charge controller or should I order one of these? I dont plan to expand the system
do they make these for battery banks? or can this be used for a battery bank like say you have 16 12 v batteries connecting them in parallel and series to make 4 48v batteries?