I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
What great videos/tutorials these are! It feels like Dwayne is a friend that I go to for help, lol. I was troubleshooting a Troy Bilt mower so the wiring colors and the harness layouts were different, but using these steps and the multi meter lead me right to the problem. Thank you!
The mower I was working on had a 30 amp fuse where a 40 amp should go!! The only way to know what size fuse is to check the electrical diagram, this step was crucial for me and fixed everything
I just had the same problem with the engine will run for about 15 seconds and then the fuse will blow. I looked for hours and the wiring was fine. I finally removed the flywheel and found that old grass was around the electrical coils I used the air compressor and blew out the flywheel and lightly sanded the magnets. This was causing the short in the electrical system. It runs fine now with no problems.
Great vid. It helped me trouble shoot my problem down to the ignition switch. It had some debris in there shorting out the pins. I blew off the debris between the pins and it solved the problem.
After watching this I went and checked the fuse holder with multi meter. It showed power or energy there. I then started looking at red wire going to fuse holder and there are white plastic connectors down in there that look oily and greasy. Not sure if that is a problem but I need to know if there is something I can spray on them to clean them up or how to get in those plastic connectors to clean it all up. It looks like the red wire going up to ignition switch is fine, nothing broke or messed up in any way.
Great video, I've replaced damn near every electrical component on my Cub Cadet SLT1554. Still blowing fuses after a couple minutes of running, I can start it 5-10 times and pop goes the fuse, while it's sitting still in the garage. Without engaging PTO. Thank you for this simple step by step tutorial, I feel pretty certain after watching this my ignition switch is the culprit. Once i do get her running, with a new stator, regulator, solenoid, starter, plugs and battery, she should run forever!
Found it .. old Grass buildup and dirt was shorting across my key switch blowing the seat fuse. When he said he could be the key switch I pull it and cleaned it.
Thanks for letting us know what you found. Finding the cause of a blown fuse can sometimes be difficult. We're glad to hear that you got the mower fixed.
A great trick is to use a headlight bulb. It gives you a visual cue while wiggling wires. A shorted to ground wire will turn light on. This is an old automotive repair tool from a 70 yr old car tech turned mower repairman. That saves you blowing a lot of fuses while finding the short.
I've got a toro 460, uber reliable after 16 years, but blew a fuse the other day, 1st time! New fuse, starts, runs 30 -60 seconds and blows again. going through the harnesses, any thoughts?
I'm troubleshooting a Craftsman riding mower where the 20 amp fuse at the solenoid blows as soon as I turn the key. The ignition switch has off/lights/run/start, so if it blows when I first turn to the headlights, would the short have to be in that area? I've tested the ignition switch and solenoid.
The short could be in the ignition switch or the circuit for the headlights. Check the wiring diagram for your mower to help you find the short in that circuit. If you can unplug the wiring harness for the headlight circuit, then try unplugging that harness and see if the fuse still blows. If it does, then a short in the ignition switch or wiring around the ignition switch is likely blowing the fuse.
The ignition switch could have a short that's causing the fuse to blow when you move the key to the start position. A short in the wiring going through the interlock switches, or a shorted interlock switch could also cause the fuse to blow when you turn the key to the start position.
My Father is having an issue with this so I wanted to type up what was said in the video so that he could print it off. If I messed anything up, I apologize but just in case it could help someone else. I take no credit for any of this. Measure voltage through the fuse holder Turn off ignition and set multimeter to DC voltage Place the probes in the fuse holder If it shows no voltage when turning the key (Skip to the section when turning the key)
If it shows voltage the short is in the red wire or the ignition switch itself
Unplug the ignition switch and check the voltage again If it shows no voltage with the ignition switch removed, it is in the switch
If it shows voltage: The short is in the red wire between the fuse hold and the ignition switch plug
If it doesn't show voltage with the key turned off, plug in a new fuse, turn the key to the run position Turn the key off and pull out the fuse to see if it blew Current is going B terminal to the A1 If the fuse blew while in the run position it is in the ignition switch or blue wire, or wire harness connected to the blue wire
Didn't blow: Intermittent short and harder to find Wiggle each wire harness and if the fuse blows that is the harness with the short
Pull the ignition switch out: Turn to the run position Set to measure resistance Touch B and A1 and should show infinite resistance (0 Ohms of resistance) Keeping one probe in B test all the other spades with the other probe (On the video it shows 0.L) If it measures anything from B to any other contact besides A1 it is the switch
If ok: Check the dash wiring harness first Unplug the Engine and chassis wire harness from the dash wiring harness. Plug in a new fuse into the fuse holder Turn to key to the run position, turn the key off and check the fuse. If it blows the short is in the blue wire of the dash wiring harness
If it didn't blow, connect the engine wiring harness Turn the key If the fuse blows it is in the engine wiring harness
If the fuse doesn't blow with the engine wiring harness connected the short is in the chassis wire harness
It only blows the fuse when I turn the key to start. Kohler engine sv330s, Spec # PS-sv730-0011. It's in a Cub Cadet SLT 1550 Any help would be appreciated. P.S. Would it be the voltage regulator.
The red wire is part of the dash wire harness on most riding mowers. Almost all riding mowers include detailed drawings of the wire harnesses on their parts list diagram. Look up the parts for your riding mower using the full model number, then order the wire harness that includes the fuse holder. Here’s a link to look up parts for your model: www.searspartsdirect.com/. Replace the entire wire harness or just use the portion of the wire harness needed to fix the red wire. Here’s a video that shows how to repair wires: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/how-to-repair-broken-or-damaged-wires-video.html. Or, you may be able to repair the red wire using the tips in that video without ordering the harness. Use repair wire with the same electrical ratings as the original wire if you replace wire without ordering the harness.
@@searspartsdirect or just run a new red wire from point to point, supported and isolated and with good solid connections on both ends. If one wire is bad replace it, why go through the expense of a whole new harness? He gives advice to sell parts for Sears.
I continue to blow fuse on a craftsman mower with cv22s kohler engine. I have had trouble with intermittent starting in past, and now not at all, fuse is blown. I over the course of isolating the short I replaced wiring harness, switch, ammeter, solenoid, and regulator /rectifier as well as plastic connector to the regulator (not the wires). It continues to blow the fuse. I can get the tractor to start by disconnecting the regulator/rectifier, and despite the reg/rectifier being new, it blows the fuse If I try to start it with it connected. I assume the engine wiring harness is good since the tractor runs when regulator rectifier is disconnected, (as were everything else I replaced most likely) ? Any idea of what could be causing the short, I assume one of the wires leading to the reg/rectifier? I appreciate any help you can offer.
The engine wire harness which includes the wires leading to the regulator/rectifier could be causing the short. We recommend that you check all wires in the engine wire harness for damage.
Sears PartsDirect thank you for your prompt response. I will look at these wires closer. Do you know where I can find a wiring diagram for the engine wiring harness and the wires leading to the regulator /rectifier. I have only been able to find details for the tractor. I am wondering where the 2 white wires off the regulator /rectifier go to. Thanks again.
We may be able to find the wiring diagram for your Craftsman mower. We’ll need the full model number of the mower. You can usually find the model number under the seat.
@@fernandobayardo9054 Check the wire that charges the battery from the rectifier it should be the middle one. Connect the outside wires and leave that one disconnected. do all three one at a time if that did not work. If it did, replace the entire length including the connectors for that wire.
Why is the 30amp fuse blowing everytime I put a new one in without key being in swtch on My GT3000 25Hp Kohler Pro V-twin?Thanx friend for your Time.William.
A bad ignition switch could be blowing that fuse. Disconnect the red wire from the ignition switch and position the end of that red wire so it doesn’t contact any metal. Replace the fuse and see if the fuse still blows. If the fuse doesn’t blow with the ignition switch disconnected, then you’ll likely need to replace the ignition switch. If the fuse still blows, a wiring insulation break in the red wire between the fuse holder and the ignition switch could be causing current to flow to the metal tractor frame, which would blow the fuse. If you have an ammeter installed, a shorted ammeter could be blowing the fuse. We based this advice on Craftsman GT3000 tractor model 917.276360. If you have a different model, then other components or wiring could cause the fuse to blow. Let us know the model number of your Craftsman lawn tractor if the above troubleshooting doesn’t help.
I bough a new ignition switch and a new Rectifier-Regulator and installed and put new 30 amp fuse in holder Tractor ran 4 second and died with fuse Blown again! I don't see any bad wires on red wires from switch to fuse Holder or Battery. should both side of fuse holder have power when touching to negative on Battery?
Because the fuse didn’t blow with the ignition switch in the off position, replacing the ignition switch fixed one cause of the blown fuse. A short in a circuit connected to the ignition switch blew the fuse after you replaced the ignition switch. You’ll need to use the tractor’s wiring diagram to trace and check the wiring and components connected to the ignition switch to find the second short circuit. If you’re not able to find the short on your own, we recommend that you have a service technician examine and repair the tractor. You can schedule service here: www.searshomeservices.com/.
Do you read 12V directly off the battery? I would insert a new fuse with the ignition switch in the off position and then remove the fuse. if the fuse isn't blown, I would go to step 2 in the video. If it is blown, I would follow Wayne's instruction as if you read a full 12 volts.
Yes, I do have 12v directly at battery. At fuse holder, shows .03v without fuse, key “off”. Installed new ignition switch, same result. My situation is not a blown fuse when key on (does not blow just by turning key on). The fuse blows when cranking engine while holding key in start position. Engine does not make even a 1/4 revolution (I don’t hold key in start position more than about 3 seconds). Try again 3 more times, same result. About 5th try, fuse blows.
@@mmcnew1 Could be the fuse holder itself is no good and arcing underload, could be a bad rectifier or a bad terminal connector causing an arc in the connector under load.
I have a craftsman with a Kohler motor. I have replaced the ignition and I have disconnected the wiring harness and put a new fuse in. It will try to start that way but wont turn over. Once I connect the wiring harness back together it blows the fuse again. I dont see any wire showing and have taken the top of the engine off just to see if it was something loose, but nothing I can see. I'm stumped!!!
Did you follow the steps outlined in the video? Did you usd the properly rated fuse for your mower? I assume that you disconnected the dash wire harness leaving on both the engine and chassis wire harnesses. From your description, I assume that you left the key in run position when reconnecting the dash wire harness with a live battery still connected. This is a very bad practice. You could have arc both connections in which case you did not allow for the proper ground. If my assumptions are correct, you either have a bad red wire running between the fuse holder and the new ignition switch or the new ignition switch is bad. Did you check the ignition switch? Like husbands, new switches can go bad. The reason why your mower didn't start initially was that the dash wiring harness was disconnected at the beginning when no power was available to the solenoid.
I have a cub cadet with kholer motor. I have no resistance when i test the brand new ignition switch, starter, and selenoid. It ran before i parked it to work on the turning arms. Now turn the key and it does nothing but blow the 30 amp fuse behind the seat. Unplugged the harness from the motor turned the key and didint blow fuse. What else should i do please help.
You seem to indicate that you unplugged the wire harness that goes to Kohler engine. If so, then the engine wire harness may have a short. A bad component in engine's charging or ignition system could also be shorting out and causing the fuse to blow. Examine the engine wire harness for melted or damaged wire insulation. Replace the engine wire harness if you find insulation damage. If this tip doesn’t help, let us know the model number of your Cub Cadet riding mower so we can look at its wiring diagram and provide some additional troubleshooting tips.
My Cub Cadet did the same thing I cut the fuse holder out and installed a 30 breaker that solved my issue. When I inspected the fuse holder it showed signs of arcing that will do it every time.
Check all wiring connected to the fuse for insulation damage that could allow a wire to short out to the mower frame or other wires. Repair any damaged wires. If wiring is okay, then a component connected to the fuse’s circuit could be shorted out. According to the wiring schematic for that model, we see three 10-amp fuses. The mower also has two 20-amp fuses and a couple of smaller fuses. If you need more advice on finding the cause of the blown fuse, let us know which 10-amp fuse is blowing.
The headlight harness was melted to the exhaust....👍👍👍🤠☘️🍾 who needs headlights on a mower? Not me! I put in a power point with the wires so I can charge my phone!
Your information you give is false. You cannot test for voltage at a fuse holder by inserting both leads into it. The holder is a hot wire coming from the voltage source the other side of the holder is the side going to the device it's powering, also a power carrying conductor.. If there is no short the meter will not read voltage, but if there is that means the sending wire might be shorted but that again is not accurate. Since things in the DC circuit require a hot and a ground it might show power because the device is connected to ground for the device to work. The best way is to isolate both ends of the hot wire, put the meter in ohms or continuity with a beep, test one end of the wire with one lead and the other to ground if no beep the wire is good, if it beeps the wire is shorted to ground and needs to be replaced. Most things can be tested with a continuity tester for shorted to ground, faulty or good. For example take a short piece of wire and strip both ends that represents any wire you need to check. Put the meter in continuity and place one lead on one end the other lead on the other end, it will make a connection giving an audible beep. Now if that wire is cut there is no connection between both ends so it will not beep, it can't. You have a broken connection also known as no continuity. Now use another wire and place it overhanging on a piece of metal on both ends, put one lead on the wire and the other to the metal no continuity if the insulating integrity of the wire is good. Now strip out a section in the middle of that wire to expose the bare copper to make contact with the metal test the same way again and you will get a beep as you have a completed path to both ends of the circuit. That represents what happens when a wire gets pinched or chafed exposing the wire to the metal witch in your mowers case is ground, that is a direct short in that wire, this will blow a fuse. Remember all electrical devices are shorts to work but.... they are controlled shorts which is why it won't blow a fuse unless the device is bad and needs to be replaced. I have been an Electrician for 42 years and there is no short cuts, just a simple understanding as to how it's works, what to use and how to use it to get what you need. Sometime it turns out to be easy and quick, other times it might take alot and be frustrating but he had a good point, a wiring diagram of your equipment is the key to trace efficiently. Get one, get a continuity meter and your half way there. Remember checking things hot can cause more harm than good and waste a lot of fuses. If a wire is pinched it may only give a short in a certain position like hitting a bump, or slanted on an incline, check the entire length of the wire suspected. i hope this helps some of you.
Excellent video. Thanks to this video I was able to find a fault in the ignition switch which kept blowing fuses.
I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
Excellent tutorial, clear and delivered at a great pace. Thank you for posting this.
Another absolutely excellent video. Not just How-To but why. Greatly appreciate the quality of your videos.
I've got a Husqvarna, but the principals are the same. This definitely helped me narrow down my short. Thanks.
Thank you, Wayne. This video helped me find the location of my short (a bad ignition switch). I have a new switch and I'm mowing again. Great video!
Thanks for letting us know what you found. We're glad to hear that our video helped.
This video is a life-saver. Thank you. May Sears live forever.
What great videos/tutorials these are! It feels like Dwayne is a friend that I go to for help, lol. I was troubleshooting a Troy Bilt mower so the wiring colors and the harness layouts were different, but using these steps and the multi meter lead me right to the problem. Thank you!
Thank you mister Sears mower guy
.
The mower I was working on had a 30 amp fuse where a 40 amp should go!! The only way to know what size fuse is to check the electrical diagram, this step was crucial for me and fixed everything
I just had the same problem with the engine will run for about 15 seconds and then the fuse will blow. I looked for hours and the wiring was fine. I finally removed the flywheel and found that old grass was around the electrical coils I used the air compressor and blew out the flywheel and lightly sanded the magnets. This was causing the short in the electrical system. It runs fine now with no problems.
I love a good success story. Thanks for sharing what you learned.
I like how this guy delivers. Thanks 👍🏿
Thanks to this, I found my blue write chafing on the black wire in the harness by the do stick
Great vid. It helped me trouble shoot my problem down to the ignition switch. It had some debris in there shorting out the pins. I blew off the debris between the pins and it solved the problem.
After watching this I went and checked the fuse holder with multi meter. It showed power or energy there. I then started looking at red wire going to fuse holder and there are white plastic connectors down in there that look oily and greasy. Not sure if that is a problem but I need to know if there is something I can spray on them to clean them up or how to get in those plastic connectors to clean it all up. It looks like the red wire going up to ignition switch is fine, nothing broke or messed up in any way.
What will a bad fuse cause on a mower? Just wondering bc we just put a new starter on our craftsman riding mower
Great video, I've replaced damn near every electrical component on my Cub Cadet SLT1554. Still blowing fuses after a couple minutes of running, I can start it 5-10 times and pop goes the fuse, while it's sitting still in the garage. Without engaging PTO.
Thank you for this simple step by step tutorial, I feel pretty certain after watching this my ignition switch is the culprit. Once i do get her running, with a new stator, regulator, solenoid, starter, plugs and battery, she should run forever!
Found it .. old Grass buildup and dirt was shorting across my key switch blowing the seat fuse. When he said he could be the key switch I pull it and cleaned it.
Thanks for letting us know what you found. Finding the cause of a blown fuse can sometimes be difficult. We're glad to hear that you got the mower fixed.
A great trick is to use a headlight bulb. It gives you a visual cue while wiggling wires. A shorted to ground wire will turn light on.
This is an old automotive repair tool from a 70 yr old car tech turned mower repairman. That saves you blowing a lot of fuses while finding the short.
Thanks not a mechanical type here but this is straight forward.
I've got a toro 460, uber reliable after 16 years, but blew a fuse the other day, 1st time! New fuse, starts, runs 30 -60 seconds and blows again. going through the harnesses, any thoughts?
You ever get it fixed?.
thank you
Very clear & professional
I'm troubleshooting a Craftsman riding mower where the 20 amp fuse at the solenoid blows as soon as I turn the key. The ignition switch has off/lights/run/start, so if it blows when I first turn to the headlights, would the short have to be in that area? I've tested the ignition switch and solenoid.
The short could be in the ignition switch or the circuit for the headlights. Check the wiring diagram for your mower to help you find the short in that circuit. If you can unplug the wiring harness for the headlight circuit, then try unplugging that harness and see if the fuse still blows. If it does, then a short in the ignition switch or wiring around the ignition switch is likely blowing the fuse.
Thank you! I will try that and hopefully zone in on the short.
I got a new ignition switch and my slow blow fuse is fine in the run position but when I try to engage the starter it blows. Any clues?
The ignition switch could have a short that's causing the fuse to blow when you move the key to the start position. A short in the wiring going through the interlock switches, or a shorted interlock switch could also cause the fuse to blow when you turn the key to the start position.
@@searspartsdirect God bless you for replying and in a timely fashion. I don't deserve it.
fantastic video, solved the problem immediately due to his tutorial!!! A++
My Father is having an issue with this so I wanted to type up what was said in the video so that he could print it off. If I messed anything up, I apologize but just in case it could help someone else. I take no credit for any of this.
Measure voltage through the fuse holder
Turn off ignition and set multimeter to DC voltage
Place the probes in the fuse holder
If it shows no voltage when turning the key (Skip to the section when turning the key)
If it shows voltage the short is in the red wire or the ignition switch itself
==============================================================================
Unplugged ignition Switch:
Unplug the ignition switch and check the voltage again
If it shows no voltage with the ignition switch removed, it is in the switch
If it shows voltage:
The short is in the red wire between the fuse hold and the ignition switch plug
If it doesn't show voltage with the key turned off, plug in a new fuse, turn the key to the run position
Turn the key off and pull out the fuse to see if it blew
Current is going B terminal to the A1
If the fuse blew while in the run position it is in the ignition switch or blue wire, or wire harness connected to the blue wire
Didn't blow:
Intermittent short and harder to find
Wiggle each wire harness and if the fuse blows that is the harness with the short
===============================================================================
Pull the ignition switch out: Turn to the run position
Set to measure resistance
Touch B and A1 and should show infinite resistance (0 Ohms of resistance)
Keeping one probe in B test all the other spades with the other probe (On the video it shows 0.L)
If it measures anything from B to any other contact besides A1 it is the switch
================================================================================
If ok:
Check the dash wiring harness first
Unplug the Engine and chassis wire harness from the dash wiring harness.
Plug in a new fuse into the fuse holder
Turn to key to the run position, turn the key off and check the fuse.
If it blows the short is in the blue wire of the dash wiring harness
If it didn't blow, connect the engine wiring harness
Turn the key
If the fuse blows it is in the engine wiring harness
If the fuse doesn't blow with the engine wiring harness connected the short is in the chassis wire harness
FYI if you click the three dots under the video and hit show transcript, it will show the text for the entire video.
Thank you. I am printing it out to follow it.
Great Video, Helped me get on the right track fixing my 30 year old cub cadet! Turns out a shorted stator was blowing the fuse.
These videos are awesome. Thanks
It only blows the fuse when I turn the key to start. Kohler engine sv330s, Spec # PS-sv730-0011. It's in a Cub Cadet SLT 1550 Any help would be appreciated. P.S. Would it be the voltage regulator.
This guy is a fucking legend
I have isolated the short in the red wire coming from the fuse holder to the ignition switch. Question is, how do you replace the red wire?
The red wire is part of the dash wire harness on most riding mowers. Almost all riding mowers include detailed drawings of the wire harnesses on their parts list diagram. Look up the parts for your riding mower using the full model number, then order the wire harness that includes the fuse holder. Here’s a link to look up parts for your model: www.searspartsdirect.com/.
Replace the entire wire harness or just use the portion of the wire harness needed to fix the red wire. Here’s a video that shows how to repair wires: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/how-to-repair-broken-or-damaged-wires-video.html.
Or, you may be able to repair the red wire using the tips in that video without ordering the harness. Use repair wire with the same electrical ratings as the original wire if you replace wire without ordering the harness.
@@searspartsdirect or just run a new red wire from point to point, supported and isolated and with good solid connections on both ends. If one wire is bad replace it, why go through the expense of a whole new harness? He gives advice to sell parts for Sears.
I continue to blow fuse on a craftsman mower with cv22s kohler engine. I have had trouble with intermittent starting in past, and now not at all, fuse is blown. I over the course of isolating the short I replaced wiring harness, switch, ammeter, solenoid, and regulator /rectifier as well as plastic connector to the regulator (not the wires). It continues to blow the fuse. I can get the tractor to start by disconnecting the regulator/rectifier, and despite the reg/rectifier being new, it blows the fuse If I try to start it with it connected. I assume the engine wiring harness is good since the tractor runs when regulator rectifier is disconnected, (as were everything else I replaced most likely) ? Any idea of what could be causing the short, I assume one of the wires leading to the reg/rectifier? I appreciate any help you can offer.
The engine wire harness which includes the wires leading to the regulator/rectifier could be causing the short. We recommend that you check all wires in the engine wire harness for damage.
Sears PartsDirect thank you for your prompt response. I will look at these wires closer. Do you know where I can find a wiring diagram for the engine wiring harness and the wires leading to the regulator /rectifier. I have only been able to find details for the tractor.
I am wondering where the 2 white wires off the regulator /rectifier go to.
Thanks again.
We may be able to find the wiring diagram for your Craftsman mower. We’ll need the full model number of the mower. You can usually find the model number under the seat.
Sears PartsDirect , the model number is 917273090. Thank you
@@fernandobayardo9054 Check the wire that charges the battery from the rectifier it should be the middle one. Connect the outside wires and leave that one disconnected. do all three one at a time if that did not work. If it did, replace the entire length including the connectors for that wire.
Thank you kindly sir
Why is the 30amp fuse blowing everytime I put a new one in without key being in swtch on My GT3000 25Hp Kohler Pro V-twin?Thanx friend for your Time.William.
A bad ignition switch could be blowing that fuse. Disconnect the red wire from the ignition switch and position the end of that red wire so it doesn’t contact any metal. Replace the fuse and see if the fuse still blows.
If the fuse doesn’t blow with the ignition switch disconnected, then you’ll likely need to replace the ignition switch.
If the fuse still blows, a wiring insulation break in the red wire between the fuse holder and the ignition switch could be causing current to flow to the metal tractor frame, which would blow the fuse. If you have an ammeter installed, a shorted ammeter could be blowing the fuse.
We based this advice on Craftsman GT3000 tractor model 917.276360. If you have a different model, then other components or wiring could cause the fuse to blow. Let us know the model number of your Craftsman lawn tractor if the above troubleshooting doesn’t help.
I've Order a Switch it should be coming today.Thank Kind Friend for your Time and have a Blessed Holidays.
I bough a new ignition switch and a new Rectifier-Regulator and installed and put new 30 amp fuse in holder Tractor ran 4 second and died with fuse Blown again! I don't see any bad wires on red wires from switch to fuse Holder or Battery. should both side of fuse holder have power when touching to negative on Battery?
Also Installed new ammeter still blowing fuses.
Because the fuse didn’t blow with the ignition switch in the off position, replacing the ignition switch fixed one cause of the blown fuse. A short in a circuit connected to the ignition switch blew the fuse after you replaced the ignition switch. You’ll need to use the tractor’s wiring diagram to trace and check the wiring and components connected to the ignition switch to find the second short circuit. If you’re not able to find the short on your own, we recommend that you have a service technician examine and repair the tractor. You can schedule service here: www.searshomeservices.com/.
What does it mean if on the very first test (ignition switch off, test for voltage at fuse holder) the meter reads .03 volts?
Do you read 12V directly off the battery? I would insert a new fuse with the ignition switch in the off position and then remove the fuse. if the fuse isn't blown, I would go to step 2 in the video. If it is blown, I would follow Wayne's instruction as if you read a full 12 volts.
Yes, I do have 12v directly at battery. At fuse holder, shows .03v without fuse, key “off”. Installed new ignition switch, same result. My situation is not a blown fuse when key on (does not blow just by turning key on). The fuse blows when cranking engine while holding key in start position. Engine does not make even a 1/4 revolution (I don’t hold key in start position more than about 3 seconds). Try again 3 more times, same result. About 5th try, fuse blows.
@@mmcnew1 Could be the fuse holder itself is no good and arcing underload, could be a bad rectifier or a bad terminal connector causing an arc in the connector under load.
I have a craftsman with a Kohler motor. I have replaced the ignition and I have disconnected the wiring harness and put a new fuse in. It will try to start that way but wont turn over. Once I connect the wiring harness back together it blows the fuse again. I dont see any wire showing and have taken the top of the engine off just to see if it was something loose, but nothing I can see. I'm stumped!!!
Did you follow the steps outlined in the video? Did you usd the properly rated fuse for your mower? I assume that you disconnected the dash wire harness leaving on both the engine and chassis wire harnesses. From your description, I assume that you left the key in run position when reconnecting the dash wire harness with a live battery still connected. This is a very bad practice. You could have arc both connections in which case you did not allow for the proper ground. If my assumptions are correct, you either have a bad red wire running between the fuse holder and the new ignition switch or the new ignition switch is bad. Did you check the ignition switch? Like husbands, new switches can go bad. The reason why your mower didn't start initially was that the dash wiring harness was disconnected at the beginning when no power was available to the solenoid.
I have a bad boy and it blows the 15 amp fuse every time I lift it all the way up or all the way down works fine in between
It didn't blow when installed a new battery could the short have been there?
Yes. An internal failure in the battery could have caused the battery to discharge high current and blow the fuse.
I have a cub cadet with kholer motor. I have no resistance when i test the brand new ignition switch, starter, and selenoid. It ran before i parked it to work on the turning arms. Now turn the key and it does nothing but blow the 30 amp fuse behind the seat. Unplugged the harness from the motor turned the key and didint blow fuse. What else should i do please help.
You seem to indicate that you unplugged the wire harness that goes to Kohler engine. If so, then the engine wire harness may have a short. A bad component in engine's charging or ignition system could also be shorting out and causing the fuse to blow. Examine the engine wire harness for melted or damaged wire insulation. Replace the engine wire harness if you find insulation damage. If this tip doesn’t help, let us know the model number of your Cub Cadet riding mower so we can look at its wiring diagram and provide some additional troubleshooting tips.
Sears PartsDirect ,
Thank you very much, I will look into that and see what I can find.
My Cub Cadet did the same thing I cut the fuse holder out and installed a 30 breaker that solved my issue. When I inspected the fuse holder it showed signs of arcing that will do it every time.
I have a gravely pro turn 260 with a kohler ZT740 engine it continues to blow the 10amp run fuse what could be causing this?
and I replace the fuel shut off solenoid because it was pulling to many amps, I still continue to blow 10amp run fuses.
Check all wiring connected to the fuse for insulation damage that could allow a wire to short out to the mower frame or other wires. Repair any damaged wires. If wiring is okay, then a component connected to the fuse’s circuit could be shorted out. According to the wiring schematic for that model, we see three 10-amp fuses. The mower also has two 20-amp fuses and a couple of smaller fuses. If you need more advice on finding the cause of the blown fuse, let us know which 10-amp fuse is blowing.
Im just going bypass the fuse problem solved
Very Good!... #73 ✝ {5-16-2022}
The headlight harness was melted to the exhaust....👍👍👍🤠☘️🍾 who needs headlights on a mower? Not me! I put in a power point with the wires so I can charge my phone!
So you're not into mowing by moonlight, eh?
@@searspartsdirect no, but I am looking forward to listening to some tunes and not worrying about the battery on my phone Going dead! 👍
Do you know the difference among a short, open and grounded circuit when troubleshooting a electrical problem? You call all the problems a short. 🤔
Your information you give is false. You cannot test for voltage at a fuse holder by inserting both leads into it. The holder is a hot wire coming from the voltage source the other side of the holder is the side going to the device it's powering, also a power carrying conductor.. If there is no short the meter will not read voltage, but if there is that means the sending wire might be shorted but that again is not accurate. Since things in the DC circuit require a hot and a ground it might show power because the device is connected to ground for the device to work. The best way is to isolate both ends of the hot wire, put the meter in ohms or continuity with a beep, test one end of the wire with one lead and the other to ground if no beep the wire is good, if it beeps the wire is shorted to ground and needs to be replaced. Most things can be tested with a continuity tester for shorted to ground, faulty or good. For example take a short piece of wire and strip both ends that represents any wire you need to check. Put the meter in continuity and place one lead on one end the other lead on the other end, it will make a connection giving an audible beep. Now if that wire is cut there is no connection between both ends so it will not beep, it can't. You have a broken connection also known as no continuity. Now use another wire and place it overhanging on a piece of metal on both ends, put one lead on the wire and the other to the metal no continuity if the insulating integrity of the wire is good. Now strip out a section in the middle of that wire to expose the bare copper to make contact with the metal test the same way again and you will get a beep as you have a completed path to both ends of the circuit. That represents what happens when a wire gets pinched or chafed exposing the wire to the metal witch in your mowers case is ground, that is a direct short in that wire, this will blow a fuse. Remember all electrical devices are shorts to work but.... they are controlled shorts which is why it won't blow a fuse unless the device is bad and needs to be replaced. I have been an Electrician for 42 years and there is no short cuts, just a simple understanding as to how it's works, what to use and how to use it to get what you need. Sometime it turns out to be easy and quick, other times it might take alot and be frustrating but he had a good point, a wiring diagram of your equipment is the key to trace efficiently. Get one, get a continuity meter and your half way there. Remember checking things hot can cause more harm than good and waste a lot of fuses. If a wire is pinched it may only give a short in a certain position like hitting a bump, or slanted on an incline, check the entire length of the wire suspected. i hope this helps some of you.
Sears robot
lawnmowerman prison for scottish insolence if it should offend frodo in his lord of the riongs ...