They are low watts, so a 25 watt unit would less than running a standard 60 watt house light 24/7. You would have to do the math per your area on how much they charge per watt per hour.
+goodall1bay in using 100s of these units, our experience was that these would break only when we over tightened them, instead of using telfon tape and hand tighting.
+Edward Smith thanks Edward. That's just a screw on end cap to align the bulb. It can be removed to get into the unit better. Nothing to mess with for replacing the bulb
The Vecton instruction manual says: WATER DISPLACEMENT GASKET A soft black circular rubber gasket is fitted to the right hand side of the white plastic body and is fitted to protect the lamp holder assembly from any accidental water spillage or splashing
I'm kind of confused about these UV's. Your webpage says the 200 8Watt model is good for tanks up 100 gallons, but the manufacturers site says up to 60 gallons. Which is it?
This is why we have this note on the webpage with a further link to more information, also in the details section of this video: QUOTE: "See these Flow Calculations for how we arrive at our flow and aquarium size calculations Flow rates are based on actual flow rates after Head Pressure is factored in." Some UVs are rated at more, some less based on the mathematical flow calculations. Please read the UV Sterilization article in the details or follow the link on the TMC web page for a much more in depth explanation. www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#flowtable www.americanaquariumproducts.com/TMCUVSterilizer.html
American Aquarium I saw that, but it's confusing to me. I would think I could go by the canister filter rating I have and pick a UV from that. I understand what you're saying, but there is so much conflicting info, and actually too much info to wade through for the novice. I have a 75 gallon tank with 235GPH canister filter.
We'll have to agree to disagree, as there is NOTHING that is conflicting. Recommendations are based on my 35 years of research in UV Sterilization. To recommend flow rates and sizes just to agree with manufacturer recommendations would be what is conflicting. The links have very good scientific explanations, including a link to an article about head pressure. please read these articles in full. also note that there is nothing wrong with using the larger 15 watt Vecton, especially if the tank has a higher bio load
I meant conflicting info on the web. $160 plus shipping for the 15 watt is too high for me on my disabled vet pension. I appreciate the info though. Great site with lots of info. I'll definitely give it a read when I have more time. Thanks
From the Details section of this video, we have an excellent and very in depth article I recommend giving a read when you have the time. Here is an excerpt from this article: "Bulb: Check your UV Bulb/Lamp every month if possible. More importantly; CHANGE your bulb every 6 months for aquariums, and also every 6 months for ponds in warm climates where there is no winter freeze.In cool climates a pond UV bulb can be changed every season (usually late spring/ early summer), however as your pond UV Sterilizer approaches a year, your UV-C Lamp is only emitting about 25% of the correct UVC energy, so changing a pond UV bulb once per year say in Sept. will not be of much benefit since it will be very inefficient when you need it most (the warm/hot months of summer)." www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#uvmaintenance
Thanks for the quick and easy video!
Hi
Very informative video, But I have a question,Due to the fact these should be running 24/7 are they expensive to run,
Thanks
They are low watts, so a 25 watt unit would less than running a standard 60 watt house light 24/7. You would have to do the math per your area on how much they charge per watt per hour.
In my experience, the first part of the uv steriliser to break is the plastic hose barb section.
+goodall1bay in using 100s of these units, our experience was that these would break only when we over tightened them, instead of using telfon tape and hand tighting.
Can someone tell me: is it obligatory to disconnect the Vecton from the pipes and drain the water from it to replace the bulb?
Great video, thank you. Although the video doesn't address the very large flange that's in the picture (see 2:27 minutes into the video).
+Edward Smith thanks Edward. That's just a screw on end cap to align the bulb. It can be removed to get into the unit better. Nothing to mess with for replacing the bulb
The Vecton instruction manual says:
WATER DISPLACEMENT GASKET
A soft black circular rubber gasket is fitted to the right hand side of the white plastic body and is fitted to protect the lamp holder assembly from any accidental water spillage or splashing
I'm kind of confused about these UV's. Your webpage says the 200 8Watt model is good for tanks up 100 gallons, but the manufacturers site says up to 60 gallons. Which is it?
This is why we have this note on the webpage with a further link to more information, also in the details section of this video:
QUOTE: "See these Flow Calculations for how we arrive at our flow and aquarium size calculations
Flow rates are based on actual flow rates after Head Pressure is factored in."
Some UVs are rated at more, some less based on the mathematical flow calculations. Please read the UV Sterilization article in the details or follow the link on the TMC web page for a much more in depth explanation.
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#flowtable
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/TMCUVSterilizer.html
American Aquarium I saw that, but it's confusing to me. I would think I could go by the canister filter rating I have and pick a UV from that. I understand what you're saying, but there is so much conflicting info, and actually too much info to wade through for the novice. I have a 75 gallon tank with 235GPH canister filter.
We'll have to agree to disagree, as there is NOTHING that is conflicting. Recommendations are based on my 35 years of research in UV Sterilization. To recommend flow rates and sizes just to agree with manufacturer recommendations would be what is conflicting.
The links have very good scientific explanations, including a link to an article about head pressure. please read these articles in full. also note that there is nothing wrong with using the larger 15 watt Vecton, especially if the tank has a higher bio load
I meant conflicting info on the web. $160 plus shipping for the 15 watt is too high for me on my disabled vet pension. I appreciate the info though. Great site with lots of info. I'll definitely give it a read when I have more time. Thanks
How often do you have to change the bulb?
From the Details section of this video, we have an excellent and very in depth article I recommend giving a read when you have the time. Here is an excerpt from this article:
"Bulb: Check your UV Bulb/Lamp every month if possible.
More importantly; CHANGE your bulb every 6 months for aquariums, and also every 6 months for ponds in warm climates where there is no winter freeze.In cool climates a pond UV bulb can be changed every season (usually late spring/ early summer), however as your pond UV Sterilizer approaches a year, your UV-C Lamp is only emitting about 25% of the correct UVC energy, so changing a pond UV bulb once per year say in Sept. will not be of much benefit since it will be very inefficient when you need it most (the warm/hot months of summer)."
www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html#uvmaintenance
It will also vary from UV to UV, with the cheaper models using a less durable plastic and poor UVC shielding
@@AmericanAquariumInformation I write the date on the cover when I change the bulb.
Elbow leaks throway blue cover
We recommend using a little teflon tape