That is a beautifully designed wooden clamp thingy, love it. For the drum sanders you could also fabricate a lower support, bearing or just a centre, like and end stock on a lathe. This would reduce radial load on the quill. I know it’s fairly light duty, not exactly milling steel with it, but more stable and longer drill press life. Thanks for inspiration.
I am going to go with your idea of some type of lower support. I can see that the quill is taking too much lateral pressure (thet it was never designed for). Thanks for the tip.
Lee valley sells something like that www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=20202&cat=1,42500. There are dimples in the bottom of the spindles and a base with a "live center" . You could probably make you own...
That was really really great. I watched it all the way without even pausing. Thank you for detailing not only your motivation, that you only had it for a month, but also how to make all the cool accessories -- particularly the mitered clamp. Very instructional! Thank you again!
Well that's definitely worth a subscription, some very clever ideas there all of which are well thought out and practical, liked the clamp alot. Thanks for sharing.
Totally agree with the LED. Mostly for the lack of heat produced which wears out the socket but also vibration resistance. In a cheap drill press or bench grinder those will shake an incandescent filament to death real quick. Thanks for sharing!
Some great ideas. I will be making the wedge clamp as it looks useful for planing small parts too. One suggestion is to use bolts with the top cut off for the drum sanders as the smooth part of a bolt will not damage your chuck jaws.
Very nicely done George, I'm hoping to get a benchtop drill press soon. I will definitely keep these in mind when I do because my shop will be small. No lathe, but I think I could just buy some different size dowells. Good tip on drilling a hole at the end of the saw cut, I've seen that in other videos. Thanks for sharing your talent and videos, Rodney
Thank you for your kind remarks. Good luck on that benchtop drill press, take your time and look for quality. If you plan to use drum sanders on it, someone suggested using a theaded rod instead of a bolt. You can then grind a point on the end, this point can be seated inside a slightly larger hole you make in a piece of metal attached to the base. This will have prevent lateral movement of the shaft and protect your bearings. Have a great day!
My dad bought a cheap drill press from Home Depot the table was sloped 4 degrees front to back. He struggled with making things for years. I bought a tram tool from Edge technologies and I was some proud of it I bought it with me the next time I went home for the holidays. I was showing him my new tool (toy) and we put it in the drill chuck and was traming in his table and no matter how hard I tried I couldn’t flatten his table. He just laughed and said “ oh son you got took by a snake oil salesmen that fancy tool of yours is junk. I was so out raged by I put the tool way. I thought the tool was broken. We visited my uncle and my dad was telling uncle how I got snookered by buying the fancy tool. My uncle went to his shop and got a little machinist square and asked to see the tool. I got it and put the square on it and then walk to his shop walking all the wail, put it in a machine a told me to set it up, I did and he checked it. He bump his adjustments around and got out his old tools and checked it and said not your tool it’s the cheap drill press is out. We drive back to my dads and rechecked the drill press. We fixed it.
Thanks for sharing. LED lights strobe so trust your ears, not your eyes. A straight edge clamp will do as a fence when drilling holes at constant distance but you have rounded your table top so use plan B - pivot the fence from one side. I fitted all my bits to a holder opposite the drill table for quick selection
Wow, I've just bought myself a pretty nice drill press - no light though! - and your tips and tricks have got me so excited, I can't wait to start using it! Thank you very much!
I'm looking to get a drill press to replace the old Black and Decker one I have that utilises an old drill. Loving your accessories and if you don't mind me saying, so obvious, so simple but absolutely essential and costing pennies. Thankyou so much and I can see myself "borrowing" some if not all of these.
I love your ideas. I will definitely use you vacuum hose idea. I can't figure out how to use the Irwin clamps on my drill press table. It has walls for support and is tapered on the bottom. You will love the sanding disks. I made some 3 weeks ago. Love them. I will make the handle for the vise for sure. Great video, great work for the camera.
Thanks for your reply...I hope you try a few of these ideas. Recently I saw a RUclips suggesting removal of 2 of the 3 handles. I took mine off and only left the one in the vertical position. It works for me!
Σας ευχαριστώ για αυτήν την απάντηση. Λυπάμαι που μου πήρε 5 χρόνια για να απαντήσω. Τώρα μαθαίνω την ελληνική γλώσσα. Ποιος ξέρει, κάποια μέρα μπορεί να δημοσιεύσω μια ελληνική έκδοση των βίντεό μου!
My understanding is LEDs on AC flicker at twice the incoming voltage frequency, but do not flicker on DC. This would mean a flicker of 120 times a second in the U.S.A.
Yes, it is a pretty tight squeeze but I have a lot of tools in a small space. I can easily drag it forward when I need to, thanks for looking out for me.
I used to make sanding drums like that, but I'd use threaded rod and nuts instead of a bolt. The reason for this was that I didn't like putting much lateral load on the drills spindle bearings. I had a wooden plate bolted to the drills table with a hole in it for a sealed bearing that I pressed into it. An extra 1/2" of threaded rod sticking out below the drum's bottom nut would locate in the bearing and support it enough that it took most of the twisting load off the spindle bearings.
Dear Sir, you are quite right to be concerned about putting lateral stress on a drill press. Unlike a milling machine which has a shaft held top and bottom to which your cutting heads are mounted, a drill press only has a chuck inserted to the drilling column via a taper connection. It is not secured at the top. Too much lateral force will start your chuck and its taper insert to start dropping out of the holder and drive you nuts. At least putting some fixateur like a bearing at the bottom of the sanding drum assembly would help to overcome this. Good thinking.
Exactly the comment I was going to make :-) - The bottom bearing gets it done - I'll do this. Nice idea about the drum sander - even better with the bottom bearing - thanks all.
Awesome, thank you! My grandparents came from Koroni Mesenia (forgive the spelling) to the USA around 1910. By the way, where in Greece are you viewing my video? I would like to add a pin to my map for all my video replies. Thank you!
Great tips George, thanks! Being the talented man that you are, I bet you know this already. But when you put a bolt into wood, you can drill and tap the wood just as if it was metal and you would be surprised how strong the threads are. I see people using all kinds of metal inserts to get threads into wood and it is a waste to me. I have been tapping wood for years and have never had any problems of stripping or pulling threads. I have had wooden threads wear with use over a long period of time, but it is a simple fix to either go up one thread size and retap or make another part (handle or whatever) and rethread it. I enjoyed your video, liked how you present your talent so I subscribed!
Thank you for the complements. I was seduced into buying wood taping bits so I could make beer tap handles on my lathe. (You can see this on another of my videos.) What I discovered is I should not try to tap into end grain as it cuts the fibers of wood making a poor thread. I could get away with end grain taps on very hard exotic woods. I ended up gluing cross grain wood onto the end grain and taping into it for my handles. Thanks for the tips. RUclips is wonderful because it allows me to become a life-time learner.
@@gfotinakes316 I have never used wood tapping bits. I have always used metal tapping bits. I wonder if there is a difference. I do understand what you are saying about the difference in wood grains. But I never encountered any problems either way. One thing I have done is to use a slightly smaller drill bit in wood than I do in metal and also lube the wood when taping just like in metal. I also love YT because of all the great people (and a few so so) people that I have met. And I have always described myself as an information sponge. I want to learn everything there is to know on earth!!!!! lol, I know I might fall short on that accomplishment, but I'm giving it my best shot!!!!!
@@dannywilsher4165 I am a retired Middle School teacher. I was telling my wife recently that RUclips allows me to continue teaching right from my home and maybe, God willing, even when someday when I am homebound and even if I am in a wheelchair. Take care Danny.
Bonjour m georges vous etes un genie de la construction j ai la meme perceuse colonne et je voulais me faire une table en bois pour la fixer dessus et vous m avez donne une bonne idee et pour le reste chapeau tout est tres bien penses je m abonne a vous sans probleme continue a nous faires de bonnes videos constructive merci
Sorry George, I taught Industrial Engineering, Naval Architecture, and Engineering Drawing, before computers became popular, those were the days when you had to do things with your hands and pencils, I miss those days...I'm still an ole teacher...(84 yrs. old) JB
I was a teacher for 40 years, now 70, I still enjoy going into elementary classrooms and teaching life science. I too yearn for the old days. It is so hard to keep up with change these days. Thank you for your many years of teaching.
je suis désolé de ne pas savoir parler français. Comment allez-vous pendant la pandémie de Covid 19? J'utilise Google translate pour cette note, alors pardonnez la mauvaise traduction.
@@gfotinakes316 j'espère que vous allez bien , en ce moment la vie n'est pas très marrante , mais ça va c'est le principale ! Merci de votre réponse , portez vous bien ! Au plaisir de revoir une vidéo , c'est bon !
You missed a trick with those sanders, lift the wooden base with the hole on it up off the metal table by the length of the drum then you can raise or lower the drum to get full or even wear. For different diameter drums have a thinner ply cover with matching holes to place on top.
@@gfotinakes316 Better than an engineer, a boatbuilder for 40 years which means everything from sailmaker, rigger, carpenter, welder, plumber, engine mechanic, glassfibre laminator, ferro cement tier and plasterer, even naval architect! My yacht insurers refused to quote me unless I got a surveyors report on the 33ft steel gaff cutter I'd built.... I know more than my local surveyor but he's got a piece of paper! I made a sander similar to this years ago with one further refinement, a foot pedal, length of braided cord and a spring so you can work it up and down in the hole by foot while sanding using two hands.
Great idea's, thanks. My suggestion would be that you turn the sanding drums with a sharp chisel while they are mounted in the lathe so that they are running true before putting the sandpaper on.
Your vise clamp is nice. The quickest solution I have found is, surprisingly, a bicycle seat quick release lever. One single move of the clamp arm secures the vise in about one half second! The nut holding the clamp to the top side of the vise base is only about 1/2 inch tall, not at all in the way of anything. Yeah, I was astonished too at how secure and east it is to use. I added a few washers to the under side, topped off with a fender washer, and added a fender washer to the top. 2 bicycle quick release clamps = $10 on Amazon.
Thank you! I can't picture how to use the bike seat clamp in a vise. Do you know of a RUclips site where I can see it, or can you describe it in more detail. I would like to make one, but I don't understand it yet.
@@gfotinakes316 - Take a look at the photo of the product I used. Envision flipping it 180 degrees, so the lever will be on the underside of the table, and the nut side inserted up through the table slot. You will want to unscrew the the plastic tightening nut and slide washers onto the bolt if needed, but certainly sliding an appropriately sized fender washer that will rest between the plastic "thick ring" and the underside surface of your table. Insert the bolt up through the table so the bolt end is showing, then place another fender washer onto the top end of the bolt and replace the plastic tightening nut. You might ask yourself "how the hell is this going to work"? Trust it...it will. Tighten the tightening nut until you can not even begin to close and lock the lever. Slowly, incrementally back off the tightening nut while trying to close the lever. Keep going until the lever begins to close. Tighten the bolt in VERY SMALL increments until the lever locks (snaps shut) into place. The setting of the tightening nut will remain where you have set it. Test for movement of the vise. It should be tight and not slide around. When you want to move the vise, flip the lever open, move your vise, then flip the lever closed again. I have used these quick release clamps on my bicycle seats for years. I make them close to as tight "as I dare", and they are surprisingly tough. I did NOT replace any of the plastic on these, I only added washers. I am using only ONE of these clamps on my 4 inch vise and it is adequate. Good luck! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DLPNDK3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
spfttt Reale Now I got it! I thought you were talking about applying it to that wooden vice that I made, and I couldn’t make sense of it. Now that I know you’re talking about the metal drill press vice it all makes sense. I am going to make that purchase it looks like fun to tinker with. I think I might get a couple more because I can see some other possibilities for their use. Thank you for taking the time to give me another explanation.God bless!
I actually had an old bicycle seat cam and fitted it to my drill press vice. It works like a charm. Would it be okay with you if I posted a short video of this cam clamp for others to see on my station? I could credit you at spfttt Reale in my description section. If you would rather not have me do this, just give me a thumbs down and I will understand. Thanks again for the idea.
I have a question about drill press use that is really making my life difficult. How do you drill further than the spindle travel on the drill press? My drill press has a travel on 2'' max. But I often need to bore through a 2x4 for a dowel. I even have some 4x4 stock that I need to bore straight through for some carriage bolts. Because of the travel it never goes through all of the way. Not even close. I have tried to get creative and drill as deep as I can, then raise the table and start the press with the bit already sunken and try to go that way but the bits just snap off. I even tried using the hand drill and drilling a small pilot all the way through and then just using those marks on the press but even with my being as still as possible it still wasn't straight. UGH I am at a loss here.
I have tried your method of moving the table up while the bit was fully down. It worked but it does not seem too safe. If you are doing a lot of that kind of drilling with the same size bit, you might just buy a longer bit. I have a 1/4 " x 10" bit. With that length you could finish it off with a hand drill if need be. Maybe someone with a larger skill set than mine can help you out. Good luck.
@@gfotinakes316 You can get a little extra length by stopping the drill when you're partway through the hole, lowering the bit in the chuck, then finishing the hole.
Try drilling part way through the work. Then raise the drill press spindle and slide a block under the work. With the block under the work the drill will be able to drill through completely.
Yes! All four of my grandparents were Greek. They came to the U.S. around 1910. Both my parents were born in the U.S. Does Thanasis mean John in Greek? Kallo Cristoulina!
@@gfotinakes316 I noticed ur second name is greek! I my name thanasis is a typical greek name and means i think arthur in the us mu second name is very popular among europe !Kala Christougena
That is a beautifully designed wooden clamp thingy, love it. For the drum sanders you could also fabricate a lower support, bearing or just a centre, like and end stock on a lathe. This would reduce radial load on the quill. I know it’s fairly light duty, not exactly milling steel with it, but more stable and longer drill press life. Thanks for inspiration.
I am going to go with your idea of some type of lower support. I can see that the quill is taking too much lateral pressure (thet it was never designed for). Thanks for the tip.
Lee valley sells something like that
www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=20202&cat=1,42500. There are dimples in the bottom of the spindles and a base with a "live center" . You could probably make you own...
I love the sliding wedge clamp, great idea.
Thank you, I hope you build it.
That was really really great. I watched it all the way without even pausing. Thank you for detailing not only your motivation, that you only had it for a month, but also how to make all the cool accessories -- particularly the mitered clamp. Very instructional! Thank you again!
You are very welcome Ehud, I hope you can use one of the ideas.
That clamp was cool
Well that's definitely worth a subscription, some very clever ideas there all of which are well thought out and practical, liked the clamp alot. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for your kind thoughts. People rarely take the time to make a comment. Stay safe...
The sliding clamp is brilliant, thanks for sharing your methods.
I find I use this clamp all the time. It helps to have a small wood mallet to tap the tail end tight and tap the handle again to loosen.
Totally agree with the LED. Mostly for the lack of heat produced which wears out the socket but also vibration resistance. In a cheap drill press or bench grinder those will shake an incandescent filament to death real quick. Thanks for sharing!
I never even considered the vibration on incandescents, thanks for sharing.
All these are good ideas, simple and logical. Thanks
You are welcome, I hope you can try one.
Very cool things to expand the workshop. Thanks for sharing.
You bet, I used mine today!
awesome hacks!!!thanks for showing us all!! especially someone like me whose new to DIY and using tools ~
Great video and process. Very practical and efficient. Thanks for sharing.
Some great tips there mate, thankyou.
I always wondered what would happen if Mr Rogers got into woodworking....... . . . .. nice tips, George, thanks !
That's funny. When I was a Middle School teacher my students would sometimes make that comparison in a kind hearted way.
Some great ideas. I will be making the wedge clamp as it looks useful for planing small parts too. One suggestion is to use bolts with the top cut off for the drum sanders as the smooth part of a bolt will not damage your chuck jaws.
That's a great idea about the bolts. I can easily switch mine out and not damage my chuck. Good luck on the wedge clamp, Thanks!
Very nicely done George, I'm hoping to get a benchtop drill press soon. I will definitely keep these in mind when I do because my shop will be small. No lathe, but I think I could just buy some different size dowells. Good tip on drilling a hole at the end of the saw cut, I've seen that in other videos. Thanks for sharing your talent and videos, Rodney
Thank you for your kind remarks. Good luck on that benchtop drill press, take your time and look for quality. If you plan to use drum sanders on it, someone suggested using a theaded rod instead of a bolt. You can then grind a point on the end, this point can be seated inside a slightly larger hole you make in a piece of metal attached to the base. This will have prevent lateral movement of the shaft and protect your bearings. Have a great day!
Some good ideas and executions there, nice!
Glad you like them! By the way, in what state are you viewing my video? I would like to add a pin to my map for all my video replies. Thank you!
@@gfotinakes316 I'm in Western Australia :)
My dad bought a cheap drill press from Home Depot the table was sloped 4 degrees front to back. He struggled with making things for years. I bought a tram tool from Edge technologies and I was some proud of it I bought it with me the next time I went home for the holidays. I was showing him my new tool (toy) and we put it in the drill chuck and was traming in his table and no matter how hard I tried I couldn’t flatten his table. He just laughed and said “ oh son you got took by a snake oil salesmen that fancy tool of yours is junk. I was so out raged by I put the tool way. I thought the tool was broken. We visited my uncle and my dad was telling uncle how I got snookered by buying the fancy tool. My uncle went to his shop and got a little machinist square and asked to see the tool. I got it and put the square on it and then walk to his shop walking all the wail, put it in a machine a told me to set it up, I did and he checked it. He bump his adjustments around and got out his old tools and checked it and said not your tool it’s the cheap drill press is out. We drive back to my dads and rechecked the drill press. We fixed it.
Great story...helping you Dad!
gracias
denada
Good ideas. Thanks.
Good ideas
Glad you like them!
Great video, great ideas, thank you.
You are so welcome!
Thanks for sharing. LED lights strobe so trust your ears, not your eyes.
A straight edge clamp will do as a fence when drilling holes at constant distance but you have rounded your table top so use plan B - pivot the fence from one side.
I fitted all my bits to a holder opposite the drill table for quick selection
Those are awesome ideas. Thanks so much for sharing!
I hope you try one!
Looks nice. If I get a drill press I'll steal, ehh, I mean borrow some of these ideas. :)
If you have room and the money, get a drill press. I never knew how many jobs it made easier and better. Take care.
Wow, I've just bought myself a pretty nice drill press - no light though! - and your tips and tricks have got me so excited, I can't wait to start using it! Thank you very much!
Have a great time...you will wonder why you never had a drill press sooner.
I'm looking to get a drill press to replace the old Black and Decker one I have that utilises an old drill. Loving your accessories and if you don't mind me saying, so obvious, so simple but absolutely essential and costing pennies. Thankyou so much and I can see myself "borrowing" some if not all of these.
Thank you for your kind remarks. Good luck in your search for a new machine.
I love your ideas. I will definitely use you vacuum hose idea. I can't figure out how to use the Irwin clamps on my drill press table. It has walls for support and is tapered on the bottom. You will love the sanding disks. I made some 3 weeks ago. Love them. I will make the handle for the vise for sure. Great video, great work for the camera.
well done , i think ill make at least 3 , the clamp fastener is a cracking idea. regards from england.mel stenway
Thank you Mel. Sorry it has taken so long to reply. Sorry also for our recent Presidential visit.
buenas ideas para mi taladro de mesa
Muchas gracias Salvador, ve con Dios
Plus if you haven't got a lathe use a hole saw to cut ply discs which you slot onto the bolt.
Good idea!
See amazing drill press table at DIY Montreal.
Thanks for your video.
Good stuff. Thanks.
You are welcome.
Very good, thanks
On my to do list... thanks
Great ideas! Thanks
You are welcome, I hope you can try one of the ideas.
Really great tips. Thank u
Thanks for your comment. I hope you try just one tip this weekend.
I enjoyed your video. It was very interesting. Thank you!
Thank you for the complement.
what a nice guy
Great ideas thankyou
Great ideas. My drill press has a table similar to yours.
Thanks for your reply...I hope you try a few of these ideas. Recently I saw a RUclips suggesting removal of 2 of the 3 handles. I took mine off and only left the one in the vertical position. It works for me!
Yea I only use one of mine. I got it second handed and one knob was broken so I just changed it for one that was ok.
Brilliant!😄
Thank you!
lovely，after i watched i subscribe，not before.
Thankyou
Thankyou
You look like a science teacher i had in jr. High. I cant remember his name but he was a cool guy
I taught science in Huntington Beach California, Mr. Fotinakes...who are you?
@@gfotinakes316 i thought it was you. Marine view! Sean Lindsay.
Thanks for getting back to me Sean. Have a great life!
Πολυ καλη η παρουσιαση του βιντεο Γιωργο...θα το προτιμουσα στα ελληνικα ..δεν πειραζει ομως ..μια εικονα χιλιες λεξεις !!
Σας ευχαριστώ για αυτήν την απάντηση. Λυπάμαι που μου πήρε 5 χρόνια για να απαντήσω. Τώρα μαθαίνω την ελληνική γλώσσα. Ποιος ξέρει, κάποια μέρα μπορεί να δημοσιεύσω μια ελληνική έκδοση των βίντεό μου!
Drill a hole in the slot, find the right sized dowel to park in there, when you want the paper off, just drive the dowel out, to remove the paper,
Good idea!
Sanders too
Watch out for led lights on revolving tools, it flashes at 50 cycles per second, look stationary going at 3000rpm
That is great to know, thanks for the information.
My understanding is LEDs on AC flicker at twice the incoming voltage frequency, but do not flicker on DC. This would mean a flicker of 120 times a second in the U.S.A.
George, that's 30, 60 degree triangle cut, not 45 degree...
I knew I should have paid attention in Mr. Whitfield's geometry class!
Γεια σου ρε Γιωργάρα
Φροντίστε τον εαυτό σας και την πατρίδα μου. Καλό Πάσχα!
03:20 "taking the label off" - oh.. oh.. capital crime. *Andy Warhol* surely dislikes that out of his grave.
You got me! The chicken noodles were still pretty good.
@@gfotinakes316 ha.. ha..
Your drill press looks too close to the wall on the right
Yes, it is a pretty tight squeeze but I have a lot of tools in a small space. I can easily drag it forward when I need to, thanks for looking out for me.
great tips . music matches George well
I used to make sanding drums like that, but I'd use threaded rod and nuts instead of a bolt. The reason for this was that I didn't like putting much lateral load on the drills spindle bearings. I had a wooden plate bolted to the drills table with a hole in it for a sealed bearing that I pressed into it. An extra 1/2" of threaded rod sticking out below the drum's bottom nut would locate in the bearing and support it enough that it took most of the twisting load off the spindle bearings.
Dear Sir, you are quite right to be concerned about putting lateral stress on a drill press. Unlike a milling machine which has a shaft held top and bottom to which your cutting heads are mounted, a drill press only has a chuck inserted to the drilling column via a taper connection. It is not secured at the top. Too much lateral force will start your chuck and its taper insert to start dropping out of the holder and drive you nuts. At least putting some fixateur like a bearing at the bottom of the sanding drum assembly would help to overcome this. Good thinking.
That is a great idea. Thanks for the info, I will add it to the description
Exactly the comment I was going to make :-) - The bottom bearing gets it done - I'll do this. Nice idea about the drum sander - even better with the bottom bearing - thanks all.
Just found your channel and subscribed immediately , great video thanks for sharing .
Awesome, thank you! My grandparents came from Koroni Mesenia (forgive the spelling) to the USA around 1910. By the way, where in Greece are you viewing my video? I would like to add a pin to my map for all my video replies. Thank you!
@@gfotinakes316 i am living in Patras in Peloponnese , the same region of were you came from . Koroni is one of the most beautiful places in Greece .
nice work. good mods. and consideration of the camera too. I'll have to try some of these out.
Very nice, thank you !
I appreciate your comment. I hope you try one of these ideas. Have a great summer!
Great tips George, thanks! Being the talented man that you are, I bet you know this already. But when you put a bolt into wood, you can drill and tap the wood just as if it was metal and you would be surprised how strong the threads are. I see people using all kinds of metal inserts to get threads into wood and it is a waste to me. I have been tapping wood for years and have never had any problems of stripping or pulling threads. I have had wooden threads wear with use over a long period of time, but it is a simple fix to either go up one thread size and retap or make another part (handle or whatever) and rethread it. I enjoyed your video, liked how you present your talent so I subscribed!
Thank you for the complements. I was seduced into buying wood taping bits so I could make beer tap handles on my lathe. (You can see this on another of my videos.) What I discovered is I should not try to tap into end grain as it cuts the fibers of wood making a poor thread. I could get away with end grain taps on very hard exotic woods. I ended up gluing cross grain wood onto the end grain and taping into it for my handles. Thanks for the tips. RUclips is wonderful because it allows me to become a life-time learner.
@@gfotinakes316 I have never used wood tapping bits. I have always used metal tapping bits. I wonder if there is a difference. I do understand what you are saying about the difference in wood grains. But I never encountered any problems either way. One thing I have done is to use a slightly smaller drill bit in wood than I do in metal and also lube the wood when taping just like in metal. I also love YT because of all the great people (and a few so so) people that I have met. And I have always described myself as an information sponge. I want to learn everything there is to know on earth!!!!! lol, I know I might fall short on that accomplishment, but I'm giving it my best shot!!!!!
@@dannywilsher4165 I am a retired Middle School teacher. I was telling my wife recently that RUclips allows me to continue teaching right from my home and maybe, God willing, even when someday when I am homebound and even if I am in a wheelchair. Take care Danny.
I would add a bearing into the bottom of the drilling platform,to accommodate the drum sander spindle
Good idea!
Bonjour m georges vous etes un genie de la construction j ai la meme perceuse colonne et je voulais me faire une table en bois pour la fixer dessus et vous m avez donne une bonne idee et pour le reste chapeau tout est tres bien penses je m abonne a vous sans probleme continue a nous faires de bonnes videos constructive merci
Vous êtes les bienvenus Quand es-tu dans le monde, en France ou au Québec?
J'ai utilisé Google translate pour ce français.
Sorry George, I taught Industrial Engineering, Naval Architecture, and Engineering Drawing, before computers became popular, those were the days when you had to do things with your hands and pencils, I miss those days...I'm still an ole teacher...(84 yrs. old) JB
I was a teacher for 40 years, now 70, I still enjoy going into elementary classrooms and teaching life science. I too yearn for the old days. It is so hard to keep up with change these days. Thank you for your many years of teaching.
J'aurais aimé en Français !
je suis désolé de ne pas savoir parler français. Comment allez-vous pendant la pandémie de Covid 19? J'utilise Google translate pour cette note, alors pardonnez la mauvaise traduction.
@@gfotinakes316 j'espère que vous allez bien , en ce moment la vie n'est pas très marrante , mais ça va c'est le principale ! Merci de votre réponse , portez vous bien ! Au plaisir de revoir une vidéo , c'est bon !
Should you just put a bearing on the bottom to address side thrust on sandpaper drum. Also a long shim might make it easier to get back out
The bearing idea sounds good.
The clamp is genius. I will save that for a day I have some scrap and some time.
I wish it was my idea originally. I used this kind of a clamp in my middle school woodshop and it works like a charm.
You missed a trick with those sanders, lift the wooden base with the hole on it up off the metal table by the length of the drum then you can raise or lower the drum to get full or even wear.
For different diameter drums have a thinner ply cover with matching holes to place on top.
You sound like an engineer. Great ideas. Shoot me a picture if you decide to build one yourself.
@@gfotinakes316 Better than an engineer, a boatbuilder for 40 years which means everything from sailmaker, rigger, carpenter, welder, plumber, engine mechanic, glassfibre laminator, ferro cement tier and plasterer, even naval architect! My yacht insurers refused to quote me unless I got a surveyors report on the 33ft steel gaff cutter I'd built.... I know more than my local surveyor but he's got a piece of paper! I made a sander similar to this years ago with one further refinement, a foot pedal, length of braided cord and a spring so you can work it up and down in the hole by foot while sanding using two hands.
Great idea's, thanks. My suggestion would be that you turn the sanding drums with a sharp chisel while they are mounted in the lathe so that they are running true before putting the sandpaper on.
Oh, I did that. I think the little wobble comes from the hole drilled in the center and the bolt tightened within it. But thanks for the comment.
Your vise clamp is nice. The quickest solution I have found is, surprisingly, a bicycle seat quick release lever. One single move of the clamp arm secures the vise in about one half second! The nut holding the clamp to the top side of the vise base is only about 1/2 inch tall, not at all in the way of anything. Yeah, I was astonished too at how secure and east it is to use. I added a few washers to the under side, topped off with a fender washer, and added a fender washer to the top. 2 bicycle quick release clamps = $10 on Amazon.
Thank you! I can't picture how to use the bike seat clamp in a vise. Do you know of a RUclips site where I can see it, or can you describe it in more detail. I would like to make one, but I don't understand it yet.
@@gfotinakes316 - Take a look at the photo of the product I used. Envision flipping it 180 degrees, so the lever will be on the underside of the table, and the nut side inserted up through the table slot. You will want to unscrew the the plastic tightening nut and slide washers onto the bolt if needed, but certainly sliding an appropriately sized fender washer that will rest between the plastic "thick ring" and the underside surface of your table. Insert the bolt up through the table so the bolt end is showing, then place another fender washer onto the top end of the bolt and replace the plastic tightening nut. You might ask yourself "how the hell is this going to work"? Trust it...it will. Tighten the tightening nut until you can not even begin to close and lock the lever. Slowly, incrementally back off the tightening nut while trying to close the lever. Keep going until the lever begins to close. Tighten the bolt in VERY SMALL increments until the lever locks (snaps shut) into place. The setting of the tightening nut will remain where you have set it. Test for movement of the vise. It should be tight and not slide around. When you want to move the vise, flip the lever open, move your vise, then flip the lever closed again. I have used these quick release clamps on my bicycle seats for years. I make them close to as tight "as I dare", and they are surprisingly tough. I did NOT replace any of the plastic on these, I only added washers. I am using only ONE of these clamps on my 4 inch vise and it is adequate. Good luck!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DLPNDK3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
spfttt Reale Now I got it! I thought you were talking about applying it to that wooden vice that I made, and I couldn’t make sense of it. Now that I know you’re talking about the metal drill press vice it all makes sense. I am going to make that purchase it looks like fun to tinker with. I think I might get a couple more because I can see some other possibilities for their use. Thank you for taking the time to give me another explanation.God bless!
I actually had an old bicycle seat cam and fitted it to my drill press vice. It works like a charm. Would it be okay with you if I posted a short video of this cam clamp for others to see on my station? I could credit you at spfttt Reale in my description section. If you would rather not have me do this, just give me a thumbs down and I will understand. Thanks again for the idea.
@@gfotinakes316 - Are you addressing ME, George? If so... of course. :-)
Excellent George! Thanks very much for sharing your ideas 👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks for watching and your comments
I am always cautious for anyone asking me to subscribe in the begining
I am not in this for $, I am a retired teacher and I love showing people things.
Excellent ideas my good man. I will be using several of these in my shop. Much thanks for the great tips.
Thank you for the inspiration!
Nice and tight Oh well tight enough anyway lol.
Great tips - thanks!
Grt tips...thanx for sharing
Really good projects on here. Nice work.
Thank you
I have a question about drill press use that is really making my life difficult. How do you drill further than the spindle travel on the drill press? My drill press has a travel on 2'' max. But I often need to bore through a 2x4 for a dowel. I even have some 4x4 stock that I need to bore straight through for some carriage bolts. Because of the travel it never goes through all of the way. Not even close. I have tried to get creative and drill as deep as I can, then raise the table and start the press with the bit already sunken and try to go that way but the bits just snap off. I even tried using the hand drill and drilling a small pilot all the way through and then just using those marks on the press but even with my being as still as possible it still wasn't straight. UGH I am at a loss here.
I have tried your method of moving the table up while the bit was fully down. It worked but it does not seem too safe. If you are doing a lot of that kind of drilling with the same size bit, you might just buy a longer bit. I have a 1/4 " x 10" bit. With that length you could finish it off with a hand drill if need be. Maybe someone with a larger skill set than mine can help you out. Good luck.
Set a stop block drill as far as you can then flip the workpiece over and should be in the same place to finish drilling.
@@gfotinakes316 You can get a little extra length by stopping the drill when you're partway through the hole, lowering the bit in the chuck, then finishing the hole.
Try drilling part way through the work. Then raise the drill press spindle and slide a block under the work. With the block under the work the drill will be able to drill through completely.
GREAT STUF THANKS
Great, and it looks likes fun
Thanks, I hope you try one of the ideas.
Great tips!
Thanks, I hope you try one.
Thanks for these great tips !
are you greek?
Yes! All four of my grandparents were Greek. They came to the U.S. around 1910. Both my parents were born in the U.S. Does Thanasis mean John in Greek? Kallo Cristoulina!
@@gfotinakes316 I noticed ur second name is greek! I my name thanasis is a typical greek name and means i think arthur in the us mu second name is very popular among europe !Kala Christougena
FYI you won't see any drilling in this video