Great video. Started researching the Vorteks a couple of weeks ago, and found your channel. Your unboxing and review video really helped me make the decision. Picked up the Vorteks a few days ago and absolutely love it! Thanks again!!
I'm glad we could help. We found out that stock, straight out of the box, the Vorteks flies better than many others and is really tough. However, I would refrain from landing it on asphalt or concrete, nothing holds up to that for long. Thanks for the comment. AJ
Thanks for the video. I just purchased my Vorteks and will be making these upgrades as soon as my parts show up. Really appreciate the attention to detail in how to switch the parts out.
Hi there, I changed the spur gear on my Vorteks as soon as it arrived, I was told and watched videos that stated we should add an extra slipper clutch pad because the metal spur gear (well the Arrma metal spur gear) is slightly slimmer than the stock plastic one. I have done this and it works superbly. Love your vids and definitely a fan 5*👍👍
Another good option to seal out the debris from under the slipper gear, is to get the 'fuzzy' side of adhesive velcro and tape a properly sized piece to the chassis itself under the gap, then you can take out the assembly, replace slipper, do whatever maint you need, then put back in, and the velcro will still be there, the 'fuz' being thick enough to stop the vast majority of debris from getting in there, but doesn't stop the gear from spinning freely, nor from air circulating thru.
Thanks for your suggestion on the RPM Granite A-arms. One of the rear A-arms on my Vorteks broke and so I replaced both front and rear arms on my Vorteks with the RPM's. And just as shown on your video, they fit perfectly with no modifications needed and they appear to be beefier than the stock arms. Don't know why RPM doesn't say they also fit the Vorteks. Thanks again!
New sub. Great channel. Really interesting to watch. Not done the steel spur yet but have done the other elements of the video plus changed the motor mount to a stronger one, as considered that essential for jumping. When I was installing the RPMs I chose the Typhon arms instead. When you also swap the turnbuckles/rod ends for Typhon ones, you usefully widen the car, making it more stable in the air. Widening the car also means you can use different, bigger wheels which would otherwise rub the body on tight turns where the suspension is also compressing. Wish I’d thought of inexpensive Big Bore senton shocks, before going down the Arrma 6S route.
This is a very really very nice video ,,Wel done , easy explained everything without annoying music and very wel and clear videotaped ,,,thank you very much ,,I saved the video for when I'm doing this Mod's,, I have the ARRMA Vendetta and it's almost the same as this one at the Base .thums up for this one . I'm from the Netherlands so sorry for my bad English .
I have 2 vorteks, 1 the servo went out after 4 good runs. Other a snapped a shock in half on the front shock. Local hobby shop sold me senton rear shocks instead of the right ones lol. I made em work just sits up higher now better for rough terrain. I'm ordering these shocks all around for both tho now
Everything else is a great upgrade, but I'm not a fan of the metal spur upgrade. I've stripped a spur before, and nothing else happened. If that spur can't strip out, it'll just put more force into other components that may be more expensive, difficult, or annoying to replace. Like the differentials. Plus it can get pretty noisy. It's certainly a durability upgrade, but I'm just not a fan of it since it can introduce other problems. I have 3 extra spurs for the price of 1 metal spur, and I have only stripped the stock one once with at least 15 packs through it. And I have spares! I'd rather be replacing that than the differentials, driveshafts, or anything else in the drivetrain.
After spending years working in a machine shop, I've learned sealed bearings are not waterproof. In fact the seals are only designed to keep out debris. That being said, spraying lube, especially the kind that is thin and foams, does work its way inside the bearings. I'm not trying to sound like a smart @*$, but this much I "do" know, and from first hand experience. So, if you let your RC sit in a puddle for just a short time, the bearings, sealed or not, will take on water. And then, as you spin the bearings you can actually hear the lube smoothing out the bearing's function. It's a common misconception since they call them sealed, but they are not 100% sealed. And one other thing about these devices, the seals actually cause a slight bit of drag on the internals while the vehicle is under power. The contact with the race, even though it's just the seal, does have a bit of resistance. Now, it's not a substantial amount, but the drag is there. I hope this helps, and...thanks for the comment. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios I appreciate the info however I'm a professional mechanic with over 30 years of experience so I'm fairly familiar with bearings. Yes I do know that things can get into the bearings from the outside. How much depends greatly on the quality of the bearings. High quality sealed bearings are pretty well sealed and that seal gets worse as the bearing quality goes down usually. That being said I've never experienced being able to spray something on the outside of a bearing and have it make an appreciable difference to the lubricity of the inside of the bearing. But all of our experiences are different so what works for you works :-)
I just replaced my spur gear with the factory replacement and ARRMA gives you a plastic spur gear replacement where the factory one that came with the 3s is metal.
I'm unsure of the exact size. Our local hobby shop has the stuff on rolls and I simply sized the line to fit and bought that. Wish I had a better answer for you.
Great video AJ,,,big fan…I purchased an arrma senton brushed edition and I upgraded it to brushless, also upgraded spur gear to metal, works great I’m confused on what pinion gear I should be using,,, would appreciate any help, thanks
I'm not sure which size I have in mine, but you should be able to check your temps and tell that way. If you're running cool, you can add teeth to your pinion. If you're running hot, drop a tooth or two. Sorry I couldn't be more precise. I hope this helps. AJ
I love the step by step on the shocks and the rest of the parts. Since the Typhon and the Vorteks are built on the same chassis, can the big bore shocks be used on the Typhon? Man I am still on the fence between the Typhon and the Vorteks.
They sell different shocks for each RC. the Vorteks has different length shocks than the Typhon. Search your RC type on eBay and punch in big bore shocks. This will take you right to them.
I’ve watched quite a few videos and run my own Vorteks and I can’t say I’ve seen that back end bounce and upend itself like a saw during jump lands in this video. Am I just ignorant? What am I missing? Set me straight if so, but seemed weird and not what I’d want my RC doing after a suspension upgrade…
It comes down to shock fluid. We set our rig up with light fluid to get a bit more rough terrain traction and control which unfortunately lacks some control when jumping. You are not wrong, our Vorteks does bounce upon landing, but it handles way better during standard bashing when jumps are not a thing. It really does come down to your choice of bashing locations, what you plan to do with your car, the weight of your car, and your choice of shock fluid. Thanks for commenting. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios I see. That makes sense actually. I don’t jump my RCs too much and when I do it’s NEVER too high. Bashing is my favorite thing to do with my ground RCs, just not destroying them while jumping lol. Thank you for responding BTW, I appreciate it and I enjoy your channel.
I understand. We here like both, on ground and flying the cars. The upside for us is, we love the rebuild process and so breaking a thing or two is all part of what we love about the hobby. Like I've said before, if I bring all the cars back unbroken...I haven't been pushing them hard enough. It's silly I know, but casual footage can be very boring to watch. I'm glad you like the content and look forward to hearing from you in the future. AJ
None we've come across. Ours is still rockin' with no issues. Tough little bugger. However, driving style may play a roll in durability. Best of luck. 😎👍
Those this have 3 slipper clutch pads? Because I order 3 Hot Racing ATF15H Aluminum Cross-Drilled Slipper Clutch Pad (1) Arrma 1/10 4x4 from Amazon? I can put this too?
Personally I prefer the stock ones. The aluminum ones have issues with heat and friction. The aluminum has a tendency to scar and fail when the clutch slips a lot. If you set it tight it may work but if you loosen it up for better control the clutch heats up and the aluminum plate falls apart. That’s my experience with them. If you find it works out well for you, let us know. Thanks for asking 😎👍
Salute appreciate your Content I'm subcribe 2 your channel can u give me advice on where 2 get tha silicone 4 tha shocks tower ? Or order # 4 them I have a vortek also ?
I’m sorry I’m meaning the blaster spray I see on the can of ur video u were spraying the metal barring I’m wondering where to get the from an the full name of it if possible appreciate you Salute
I'm glad you know what Stego tape is designed for. As for the shock oils we use, we use Associated's oils and Traxxas oils. Both work well and we've had no issues with either. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
I love your video instruction. Thank you for your sharing. I have 2 questions. Is it a good idea to put pinion 13 instead of 15 in Vorteks in order to get better run time. Secund question, are there any after market shocked tailor just for Vorteks without doing the adjustment in the video?
The pinion change should improve the run time, but I think the improvement would be negligible. And, not that I am aware of on the shock question. I’m sure someone builds a shock kit for it, but I haven’t seen one yet. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
The control arms and shocks are definitely the first hop ups for the Vorteks. You can see it slightly in the video this is gonna force your hub alignment way off. So the next upgrade are the aftermarket tie rods. They aren't great but with an extra lock nut they won't run the nut off. Also a little loctite super glue helps. Also the tires/wheels that come stock with the Vorteks are complete garbage. If you want the truck to grab and rip you'll need something better...
So far we haven't had to upgrade our Typhon. Our Senton 3s has several mods that are platform wide for the 3s cars from Arrma. Perhaps you should check that video out and see what we did to it? Be warned, the 3s cars do have issues with gravel getting stuck in the steering, but that's a minor thing. Dirt, good to go. Pavement, although handling suffers a bit with the slipper setup and no center diff, they still are impressive none the less.
I have a VORTEX with 5 runs on it. The esc failed last summer . I have replaced the stock esc, checked all settings, and I get nothing. I've fucked with the wiring and it will run forward, but no brakes and no steering. I'm at a loss of what to do. AYN HELP WOULD BE JUST WHAT I NEED. Please someone pointed in the right direction.
When you re - bound your receiver, did you have all of your settings centered? When installing a new ESC, a bind is necessary to get your settings all in line. I hope this helps. 😎👍
Aj, I’ve just followed this vid on upgrading the slipper gear to a metal on on the vorteks , but now I put it back together the centre shaft doesn’t turn when I roll it. It works with a battery but doesn’t free roll and turn the shaft what have I done wrong ?
It's hard to say because I did not see you build it. However, the metal gear is the same as the stock plastic one in size, so there should be no binding issues. I would back track and see if you accidentally installed something in the wrong location.
@@AJJAMStudios thanks AJ i did add an extra slipper pad on the side with 1, as others suggest with the arrma metal you need 2. would you know any different. i know you used HR. maybe this is the issue?
You can pull the center driveline and spin the front tires. But you’ll have to pull the motor mount to check the back. It is easy enough, once you’ve done it a time or two. Check my mods video for how that’s done. If things spin freely you might have a weak battery. It is a process of elimination.
These shocks are too long for the Vorteks. Since the Vorteks has shorter shock towers using these shocks will raise the center of gravity higher than any other 3s/4s model and make it handle worse than any other. The Arrma forum has a thread that lists shorter shocks that fit a Vorteks.
I was aware the shocks were long, but for my application they work just fine, plus you can shim them to the length you want by adding an inner spacer to take up the difference and yet, the car still can bottom out at full compression; it's a lot of work to do, but it is still possible. The thing is, I "want" it to have more reach with the arms. We hit the ramps with this one quite a bit and I think it helps, plus it controls just fine for us here. However, I will definitely look into the others. Thanks for the tip. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios Once you put on longer shocks, the Vorteks loses all the advantages that make it a Vorteks. Low LCG, great on the ground handling, etc. Now you have a Granite, except it rolls more easily and doesn’t have the wheel mass to stunt like a Granite. Better to just get a Granite. You paid a premium for the Vorteks, then changed it from the best handling 3s Arrma to the worst handling. Now it doesn’t do anything as well as other 3s models can.
Not true. Our Granite handles way worse than the Vorteks, It doesn't jump nearly as well. It isn't as fast or controllable, and it tumbles a lot more. The Vorteks, set up our way, jumps better, longer, and better than most of our 10th scale RC's. We've proven this. It's fine if you don't like the idea of modifying the suspension in such a way but this works for us. Thanks for commenting.
@@tyrellcorp2118ou are wrong. You want the longest shocks on the Vorteks that will fit because the trucks stance out of the box is too low. It makes the truck sluggish and prone to drift. The factory shocks aren't even shocks they are just dampers.
New shocks are too long...then he initially went to the inside hole on the a-arm? Making it raise the center of gravity even more and further frrom stock.. it's a stadium truck not a monster truck.... don't follow these directions, kids.
So, only one way to set up an RC? Does it matter that AJs way handles awesome for him? We always say, if it works for you you’re not wrong. And by the way, most of our viewers and not kids. Studio team.
Old video i know, but i love this channel as it has helped me a ton since i got back into rc 4years ago.
Glad to help!
Great video. Started researching the Vorteks a couple of weeks ago, and found your channel. Your unboxing and review video really helped me make the decision. Picked up the Vorteks a few days ago and absolutely love it! Thanks again!!
I'm glad we could help. We found out that stock, straight out of the box, the Vorteks flies better than many others and is really tough. However, I would refrain from landing it on asphalt or concrete, nothing holds up to that for long. Thanks for the comment. AJ
Thanks for the video. I’m new to the hobby and this helped me tremendously
Glad I could help 😎👍
Thanks for the video. I just purchased my Vorteks and will be making these upgrades as soon as my parts show up. Really appreciate the attention to detail in how to switch the parts out.
Glad I could help
I really enjoy your build videos. quite timely as my daughters vortex has blown a shock too.
Hi there, I changed the spur gear on my Vorteks as soon as it arrived, I was told and watched videos that stated we should add an extra slipper clutch pad because the metal spur gear (well the Arrma metal spur gear) is slightly slimmer than the stock plastic one. I have done this and it works superbly.
Love your vids and definitely a fan 5*👍👍
Thank you. I'm glad your switch is working well. AJ
what wide do you add it to ?
My spur gear stripped on the second run! Definitely going to upgrade to the metal one
Very nice video. Easy to follow. Love it, please keep em coming.
New to the hobby. Never subscribed to any channel, but Ive subscribed to your channel as this video is awesome. Thanks from the UK
Thanks for the sub!
Thank you for these videos! I’m new to the hobby and I really find your videos informative.
I’m glad we can help 😎👍
Love the video and how you show the part numbers and how to fix it new to this hobby it helps thank zachary blanco
Another good option to seal out the debris from under the slipper gear, is to get the 'fuzzy' side of adhesive velcro and tape a properly sized piece to the chassis itself under the gap, then you can take out the assembly, replace slipper, do whatever maint you need, then put back in, and the velcro will still be there, the 'fuz' being thick enough to stop the vast majority of debris from getting in there, but doesn't stop the gear from spinning freely, nor from air circulating thru.
Thanks for your suggestion on the RPM Granite A-arms. One of the rear A-arms on my Vorteks broke and so I replaced both front and rear arms on my Vorteks with the RPM's. And just as shown on your video, they fit perfectly with no modifications needed and they appear to be beefier than the stock arms. Don't know why RPM doesn't say they also fit the Vorteks. Thanks again!
New sub. Great channel. Really interesting to watch. Not done the steel spur yet but have done the other elements of the video plus changed the motor mount to a stronger one, as considered that essential for jumping. When I was installing the RPMs I chose the Typhon arms instead. When you also swap the turnbuckles/rod ends for Typhon ones, you usefully widen the car, making it more stable in the air. Widening the car also means you can use different, bigger wheels which would otherwise rub the body on tight turns where the suspension is also compressing.
Wish I’d thought of inexpensive Big Bore senton shocks, before going down the Arrma 6S route.
Sounds like you’re on top of things. Right on. 😎👍
Great video and very detailed! Thank you!
This is a very really very nice video ,,Wel done , easy explained everything without annoying music and very wel and clear videotaped ,,,thank you very much ,,I saved the video for when I'm doing this Mod's,, I have the ARRMA Vendetta and it's almost the same as this one at the Base .thums up for this one . I'm from the Netherlands so sorry for my bad English .
Thank you. We are glad to help. 😎👍
Keep it up man i love a good build video like this i can throw up in the background while im working on my own cars
New sub. Very helpful for a novice like. Keep them tutorials coming. 👏
Will do. Thanks 😎👍
I have 2 vorteks, 1 the servo went out after 4 good runs. Other a snapped a shock in half on the front shock. Local hobby shop sold me senton rear shocks instead of the right ones lol. I made em work just sits up higher now better for rough terrain. I'm ordering these shocks all around for both tho now
Good to know. Thanks. 😎👍
Great video thanks for sharing.
love this gonna do this for my own vortek
Excellent video bro I love my vorteks
Awesome 😎👍
I’m brand brand new to the hobby this is my first pickup . Great info bud . You will def be helping me for sure as I grow in the hobby . SUB !
Welcome aboard!
I have just purchased my first car too so I'm new too
I came for the vorteks... cool chanel but what happened to the vorteks?
Thanks 🙏 for sharing this know I can fix my Big Rock 😊
Got that spooky ass Unsolved Mysteries music goin on
Thank you for the video mate
GOD BLESS YOU. I LOVE YOUR DEDICATION THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING THE WAY YOU ARE. I SPEAK TO YOU FROM THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.
Everything else is a great upgrade, but I'm not a fan of the metal spur upgrade. I've stripped a spur before, and nothing else happened. If that spur can't strip out, it'll just put more force into other components that may be more expensive, difficult, or annoying to replace. Like the differentials. Plus it can get pretty noisy. It's certainly a durability upgrade, but I'm just not a fan of it since it can introduce other problems. I have 3 extra spurs for the price of 1 metal spur, and I have only stripped the stock one once with at least 15 packs through it. And I have spares! I'd rather be replacing that than the differentials, driveshafts, or anything else in the drivetrain.
Part numbers in the video description would be nice.
Good video with one caveat. Those bearings are sealed and spraying stuff on the outside doesn't really do much of anything.
After spending years working in a machine shop, I've learned sealed bearings are not waterproof. In fact the seals are only designed to keep out debris. That being said, spraying lube, especially the kind that is thin and foams, does work its way inside the bearings. I'm not trying to sound like a smart @*$, but this much I "do" know, and from first hand experience. So, if you let your RC sit in a puddle for just a short time, the bearings, sealed or not, will take on water. And then, as you spin the bearings you can actually hear the lube smoothing out the bearing's function. It's a common misconception since they call them sealed, but they are not 100% sealed. And one other thing about these devices, the seals actually cause a slight bit of drag on the internals while the vehicle is under power. The contact with the race, even though it's just the seal, does have a bit of resistance. Now, it's not a substantial amount, but the drag is there. I hope this helps, and...thanks for the comment. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios I appreciate the info however I'm a professional mechanic with over 30 years of experience so I'm fairly familiar with bearings. Yes I do know that things can get into the bearings from the outside. How much depends greatly on the quality of the bearings. High quality sealed bearings are pretty well sealed and that seal gets worse as the bearing quality goes down usually. That being said I've never experienced being able to spray something on the outside of a bearing and have it make an appreciable difference to the lubricity of the inside of the bearing. But all of our experiences are different so what works for you works :-)
I just replaced my spur gear with the factory replacement and ARRMA gives you a plastic spur gear replacement where the factory one that came with the 3s is metal.
Thank you for taking the time to put such a great video together. What diameter fuel line are you using for the shock mount?
I'm unsure of the exact size. Our local hobby shop has the stuff on rolls and I simply sized the line to fit and bought that. Wish I had a better answer for you.
@@AJJAMStudios no problem at all. Thanks for replying.
Great instructional video!!
Thank you! 😎👍
How many of those bottles to do the 4 shocks? I ordered same shocks for my vorteks! Thanks for all your vids and help always!
I pick up a couple bottles. Then you have a bit extra in case of repairs.
Great video AJ,,,big fan…I purchased an arrma senton brushed edition and I upgraded it to brushless, also upgraded spur gear to metal, works great I’m confused on what pinion gear I should be using,,, would appreciate any help, thanks
I'm not sure which size I have in mine, but you should be able to check your temps and tell that way. If you're running cool, you can add teeth to your pinion. If you're running hot, drop a tooth or two. Sorry I couldn't be more precise. I hope this helps. AJ
Nice video, thanks.
Glad you liked it!
I love the step by step on the shocks and the rest of the parts. Since the Typhon and the Vorteks are built on the same chassis, can the big bore shocks be used on the Typhon? Man I am still on the fence between the Typhon and the Vorteks.
They sell different shocks for each RC. the Vorteks has different length shocks than the Typhon. Search your RC type on eBay and punch in big bore shocks. This will take you right to them.
Where did you get the silicone pads for the shocks?
It is fuel tubing for the nitro RC rigs, available at your local hobby shop. Thanks for asking. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios good info
I'm going to use the typhon 3s rpm arms for a wider stance hopefully less body roll.
I’ve watched quite a few videos and run my own Vorteks and I can’t say I’ve seen that back end bounce and upend itself like a saw during jump lands in this video. Am I just ignorant? What am I missing? Set me straight if so, but seemed weird and not what I’d want my RC doing after a suspension upgrade…
It comes down to shock fluid. We set our rig up with light fluid to get a bit more rough terrain traction and control which unfortunately lacks some control when jumping. You are not wrong, our Vorteks does bounce upon landing, but it handles way better during standard bashing when jumps are not a thing. It really does come down to your choice of bashing locations, what you plan to do with your car, the weight of your car, and your choice of shock fluid. Thanks for commenting. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios I see. That makes sense actually. I don’t jump my RCs too much and when I do it’s NEVER too high. Bashing is my favorite thing to do with my ground RCs, just not destroying them while jumping lol. Thank you for responding BTW, I appreciate it and I enjoy your channel.
I understand. We here like both, on ground and flying the cars. The upside for us is, we love the rebuild process and so breaking a thing or two is all part of what we love about the hobby. Like I've said before, if I bring all the cars back unbroken...I haven't been pushing them hard enough. It's silly I know, but casual footage can be very boring to watch. I'm glad you like the content and look forward to hearing from you in the future. AJ
great video!! I'm picking this Arrma up soon myself.. so, there are no issues with the plastic drivetrain?? axles, driveshaft
None we've come across. Ours is still rockin' with no issues. Tough little bugger. However, driving style may play a roll in durability. Best of luck. 😎👍
Had my 2 for month now and they are pretty tough, broke a shock at skatepark and servo just hard running so far.
@@Hoosierdaddyjones812 the servo is a very poor one actually on these, however it can be easily upgraded to a 10kg one and that should do
@@bukshyrecording2448 they are crap otb both mine took shits in like 6 to 7 runs with em. Since I've replaced em been great trucks tho
Those this have 3 slipper clutch pads? Because I order 3 Hot Racing ATF15H Aluminum Cross-Drilled Slipper Clutch Pad (1) Arrma 1/10 4x4 from Amazon? I can put this too?
Personally I prefer the stock ones. The aluminum ones have issues with heat and friction. The aluminum has a tendency to scar and fail when the clutch slips a lot. If you set it tight it may work but if you loosen it up for better control the clutch heats up and the aluminum plate falls apart. That’s my experience with them. If you find it works out well for you, let us know. Thanks for asking 😎👍
One more question 4 you where 2 get tha silicone 4 the upper part of shocks u where using ?
My local hobby shop carries it. It’s just RC fuel line. 😎👍
What's tha correct name of it an can I get it from EBay or amazon?
Silicone fuel line. RC planes or cars.
Appreciate you Salute Peace and blessings
Right back at ya. Bash on. AJ
Did you stick with the 35w oil front and back on these?
Yes. 😎👍
Hi AJ, i believe stock is 40w why did you decide to go lighter? Typically watching vids on shocks people normally go heavier?
Great vid..thanx👌
Thank you 😎👍
Salute appreciate your Content I'm subcribe 2 your channel can u give me advice on where 2 get tha silicone 4 tha shocks tower ? Or order # 4 them I have a vortek also ?
It is silicone fuel tubing for my 1/10th scale nitro trucks. It is available at your local hobby shop.
One more thing what spray lubricant spray is that ur using on ball barrings?
Blaster silicone lube. But most silicone lubes should work.
I’m sorry I’m meaning the blaster spray I see on the can of ur video u were spraying the metal barring I’m wondering where to get the from an the full name of it if possible appreciate you Salute
AutoZone (where I get it). Blaster silicone spray (what it is). Good luck. 👍
Have you had any issues with the drive shafts to the tires breaking?
Nope
All the time. I got the cvd drive shafts and pumped 10 batteries thru it and no issues since.
What bits are those you are using in the impact?
I love this video….during the part where he’s working on the truck, does anyone else find the underlying music creepy as hell?!
That's funny. We never noticed that. Thanks for sharing. 😎👍
What parts did you use and why did you use them?
That is discussed in the video. Thanks.
@@AJJAMStudios Could have been nice to add that to the description?
Castle Creations Mamba Monster X 8S 33.6V ESC with 1717-1260Kv Sensored Motor Combo? which one is the best for my buck? thank you
Nice! What shocks are those? :)
Search big bore shocks for Arrma Vorteks, on eBay. You’ll find them 😎👍
Great!
The stego tape is concrete vaper barrier tape made by stego industries. What is the silicone you use for the shocks?
I'm glad you know what Stego tape is designed for. As for the shock oils we use, we use Associated's oils and Traxxas oils. Both work well and we've had no issues with either. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
I love your video instruction. Thank you for your sharing. I have 2 questions. Is it a good idea to put pinion 13 instead of 15 in Vorteks in order to get better run time. Secund question, are there any after market shocked tailor just for Vorteks without doing the adjustment in the video?
The pinion change should improve the run time, but I think the improvement would be negligible. And, not that I am aware of on the shock question. I’m sure someone builds a shock kit for it, but I haven’t seen one yet. Thanks for asking. 😎👍
The control arms and shocks are definitely the first hop ups for the Vorteks. You can see it slightly in the video this is gonna force your hub alignment way off. So the next upgrade are the aftermarket tie rods. They aren't great but with an extra lock nut they won't run the nut off. Also a little loctite super glue helps. Also the tires/wheels that come stock with the Vorteks are complete garbage. If you want the truck to grab and rip you'll need something better...
Good info. Thank you😎👍
Newbie Here....would you consider these mods to the Big Rock and Typhon 3s as well??
So far we haven't had to upgrade our Typhon. Our Senton 3s has several mods that are platform wide for the 3s cars from Arrma. Perhaps you should check that video out and see what we did to it? Be warned, the 3s cars do have issues with gravel getting stuck in the steering, but that's a minor thing. Dirt, good to go. Pavement, although handling suffers a bit with the slipper setup and no center diff, they still are impressive none the less.
Can you put tape on the bottom of chassiy I try that and can you use etectrical tape I did 3 layers ?
hi ran my vortecks on the armma metal spur i found it wore my pinion is that normal
Yes. Metal on metal will always wear. But the metal spur gear is stronger and doesn’t strip out, providing your gap is set correctly. 😎👍
I have a VORTEX with 5 runs on it. The esc failed last summer . I have replaced the stock esc, checked all settings, and I get nothing. I've fucked with the wiring and it will run forward, but no brakes and no steering. I'm at a loss of what to do. AYN HELP WOULD BE JUST WHAT I NEED. Please someone pointed in the right direction.
When you re - bound your receiver, did you have all of your settings centered? When installing a new ESC, a bind is necessary to get your settings all in line. I hope this helps. 😎👍
Do the new shocks keep it from bottoming on jumps?
No. The chassis slaps when it hits the ground. Thanks for asking. AJ
Does the tape trick trap any heat
No.
Aj, I’ve just followed this vid on upgrading the slipper gear to a metal on on the vorteks , but now I put it back together the centre shaft doesn’t turn when I roll it. It works with a battery but doesn’t free roll and turn the shaft what have I done wrong ?
It's hard to say because I did not see you build it. However, the metal gear is the same as the stock plastic one in size, so there should be no binding issues. I would back track and see if you accidentally installed something in the wrong location.
@@AJJAMStudios thanks AJ i did add an extra slipper pad on the side with 1, as others suggest with the arrma metal you need 2. would you know any different. i know you used HR. maybe this is the issue?
Perhaps 👍
What battery do you run in the vorteks? I'm running spektrum 3s 5000 mah but I get less than 15 min run time.
I'm running a 3s Ovonic 5000mha battery that runs at 50c. Tell me, is your car binding at all?
@@AJJAMStudios binding?
Resistance when the wheels rotate. Loosen the motor and spin the wheels. If they don’t spin freely your car is binding up.
@@AJJAMStudios how do I loosen motor to try that?
You can pull the center driveline and spin the front tires. But you’ll have to pull the motor mount to check the back. It is easy enough, once you’ve done it a time or two. Check my mods video for how that’s done. If things spin freely you might have a weak battery. It is a process of elimination.
In my country vorteks cost 400$, the upgrade part is expensive total money over
600$, i give up
These shocks are too long for the Vorteks. Since the Vorteks has shorter shock towers using these shocks will raise the center of gravity higher than any other 3s/4s model and make it handle worse than any other. The Arrma forum has a thread that lists shorter shocks that fit a Vorteks.
I was aware the shocks were long, but for my application they work just fine, plus you can shim them to the length you want by adding an inner spacer to take up the difference and yet, the car still can bottom out at full compression; it's a lot of work to do, but it is still possible. The thing is, I "want" it to have more reach with the arms. We hit the ramps with this one quite a bit and I think it helps, plus it controls just fine for us here. However, I will definitely look into the others. Thanks for the tip. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios Once you put on longer shocks, the Vorteks loses all the advantages that make it a Vorteks. Low LCG, great on the ground handling, etc. Now you have a Granite, except it rolls more easily and doesn’t have the wheel mass to stunt like a Granite. Better to just get a Granite. You paid a premium for the Vorteks, then changed it from the best handling 3s Arrma to the worst handling. Now it doesn’t do anything as well as other 3s models can.
Not true. Our Granite handles way worse than the Vorteks, It doesn't jump nearly as well. It isn't as fast or controllable, and it tumbles a lot more. The Vorteks, set up our way, jumps better, longer, and better than most of our 10th scale RC's. We've proven this. It's fine if you don't like the idea of modifying the suspension in such a way but this works for us. Thanks for commenting.
@@tyrellcorp2118ou are wrong. You want the longest shocks on the Vorteks that will fit because the trucks stance out of the box is too low. It makes the truck sluggish and prone to drift. The factory shocks aren't even shocks they are just dampers.
I ordered HR 90mm ones....because I saw comments like yours✊👍thanks!
I feel like I'm watching Southpark m'kay.
Lol. I didn’t realize I was doing that. I got a good laugh off of that. Thanks for the comment. 😎👍
New shocks are too long...then he initially went to the inside hole on the a-arm? Making it raise the center of gravity even more and further frrom stock.. it's a stadium truck not a monster truck.... don't follow these directions, kids.
So, only one way to set up an RC? Does it matter that AJs way handles awesome for him? We always say, if it works for you you’re not wrong. And by the way, most of our viewers and not kids. Studio team.