The spare extruder is how I managed my SV-06. One with the .4 and one with a .2. I may look into the .6 nozzle to replace the .4. Leve;ing with the back of the PEI sheet! Genius!
@@3Skulls If you're asking about the standard 06, it's great for fine detail and didn't require a slowing of the print speed. I only tested 2 prints on the 06 Plus. While the detail was a bit sharper, I had to slow the print speed down to around 60mm/sec. Since I use the Plus for functional parts rather than decorative parts or minis, I just moved both the 06 Plus and 07 Plus to the .6 nozzle permanently.
Alternate print head .. what a good idea! (using SV07+ here) BTW your content is excellent, truly :) Of course you are going to anticipate my next question would be whether CV's fantastic mods to Klipper would include alternate print heads.
I know it's an old video but I thought I'd comment anyway. I have a Sovol SV06 Plus and these videos have been really useful to me, thank you Mr. Gergo! I switched from the 0.4 stock brass nozzle to a 0.6 nickel-plated copper nozzle, and am getting a lot of overextrusion and stringing. It seems the copper nozzle is more effective in heating the filament, even if it's just a regular nozzle, not a CHT. So I guess I have some tuning to do now...
Everything in this video still stands :) Yes, switching to a nozzle of a different size and different material will mean a lot of adjustments. I recommend using Orca Slicer's handy calibration tools to fine tune your temps, flow rates, new max volumetric speeds, retraction length and speed. I am planning to make a detailed video on these tests soon.
@@gerGoPrint3Di switched to a .6 nozzle and am getting lots of overextrusion. when i did the flow rate calibration in orca, i ended up with a flow rate of around 0.8, which seems very low. is this normal?
@@gerGoPrint3Dthis is an older video, but I just wanted to say that even though I like your channel quite a bit, I think changing a nozzle is a bit more complicated than this. If the hotend is not an all metal *no metal throat with a bowden tube going all the way to the nozzle), you extually screw in the new nozzle leaving about a 1mm gap from the heater block, push the bowden tube til it meets the nozzle, mark the tube where the retention clip would be, remover and scuff the tube with a blade or rough sandpiper at your mark, reinsert the tube all the way and put the clip back on, then torque the nozzle as far as it will go against the tube (all while heated as you mentioned) (this is why new printers always have a gap)... if it's an all metal, you do the same space and torque method with the throat against the tube, then repeat with the nozzle against the throat... lastly, after it cools, you can see if it can be safely tightened a bit more.... isbis what has caused all of those leaks we see pictures of on the internet, tightening against the block with the space between the tube. Also slack 3D thermal paste improves results.
@@spyrit35 Thank you for the detailed explanation. I did not know all of these needed to be done with all metal hotend too (there is no teflon inlining in this case). Since my video Sovol made a nozzle removal short video too, where they simply unscrewed the old nozzle and screwed the new one in its place. If anything, I at least heated the nozzle to 240 (I now recommend 270-280°C) while Sovol only heated to 200°C, which is clearly not enough. The nozzle I installed in this video almost a year ago has been in service ever since, and works perfectly without any leakage or issue. I might have been lucky, but as far as I understand all-metal hotends can be swapped simply like this. My SV07 Plus uses the same type of extruder, and I have replace nozzles in that printer several times using exactly the same procedure, no issues here either. I know the process you described because my 5 year old Wanhao printer had this type of teflon lined MK4 type nozzle, it was a hassle to replace and you had to watch out for all these things you mention. But fortunately these Sovol printers are beyond this nozzle / hotend system. In the new T300 and SV08 Sovol switched to using an integrated nozzle/heatblcok combo similar to the one use Bambu Lab printers use. Here the nozzle replacement is even easier, no preheating is neccessary as I understand (though I did not need to replace these yet). Thank you again for your thorough comment, I am sure it will be helpful to owners of older printers.
I did as you did in the video. Works great. Now i got a 3rd extruder with .8mm steel nozzle attached. Just need to find the proper settings for Cura with the .8 nozzle. Maybe you can make a video of your Cura settings.
I guess you could just do the same I did for the 0.6mm except go even higher (line width to 0.8-1.6mm, layer height between 0.4-0.6mm. I would raise nozzle temp by 10-15°C, cooling to max and will probably need to slow down a bit to make sure layers cool enough). I haven't tested my 0.8 nozzle yet.
Gergo, good video, and thanks for the cooling duct design. Please go ~290C or 300C i.e. very close to the hotend max temperature when changing nozzles.
It's crazy how your z offset was so low. Mine has never been below -1.16 and as whole as -1.33. Still not sure why mine is changing as I checked everything. I have a case in with Sovol.
It simply depends on how the ABL probe is mounted on the extruder. Each extruder will have a different value, and it also slightly changes with the nozzle you insert
@@gerGoPrint3D absolutely nothing they are just surprised how 2 built items can be 10mm off but does not understand variance limits of acceptability in production lol
Hi, I have a problem with this piece, my filament got stuck in the entire hot end and I can't remove it because it's stuck between the nozzle and the cylindrical part that binds it, how can I do it? should I buy a new one?
Well, it is a good idea to have a spare extruder for any parts to be replaced. I talk about this in this very video. The link to the spare extruder is in the description of the video. But it can take weeks for it to get to you. You have a chance of salvaging if you heat the area with a heat gun or hair dryer (carefully), PLA softens around 60°C (PETG around 70°C) and you might be able to carefully peel it off. Be careful not to damage the thermistor / heater wires. Even if you do, it might only cost you an extra hotend. Try this before ordering, and if the hotend cannot be salvaged, order a spare extruder and also a replacement hotend. Ordering them together will avoid shipping costs. May the force be with you 🤓
Hi, thank you very much for your reply! I solved the problem by disassembling the hotend and rolling the PLA wire cold. I helped myself with a nail of the same diameter, gently hitting us with a hammer. It was quite simple and I didn’t cause any damage. Now, in case the problem happens again, I already know how to proceed! 😇🫶
I went with the sovol branded set, I felt $23 for 6 hardened steel nozzles is not a bad deal (shipping included), and I am planning to try the 0.8 and 1.0 nozzles in the pack as well. The fan duct could be raised for a regular volcano, but this way I did not have to trim the silicone sock
Yes, you will need to adjust the nozzle in the extruder section of your machine settings in Cura, then adjust the line width under "Quality". You should also adjust your layer height as the recommended range also changes with the nozzle size (the optimal ratio between nozzle diameter and layer height is typically between 25% and 80% of the nozzle diameter)
@@gerGoPrint3D right but the copy and paste g code, where would one find that? I see the one in your description but if I were going to a bigger nozzle what would the g code change to or where could I find it? Or is it the one in your description? Thank you for the slicer setting recommendation that really helps
Ive got the same Full Size SD adapter on my Sovol SV06+ ... When you remove the SD and add a new file and plug it back in does your Sovol recognize the new files? I have to reach down and eject the micro SD end and reinsert it to get the files to update. That normal or did I get the wrong adapter?
Yes, that's how it works with stock firmware. We have to power cycle the machine to refresh the card :( I am hoping Sovol adds a "refresh" button in the next update of the software (or it could just re-read the card every time we enter the print menu). My process now is that I write the card first on my PC, put it in the card reader, then turn the printer on.
Hi i'm still kinda new to 3D printing the PID Autotune I'm not familiar with how to add that to my machine I really would like to auto tune the machine being that I've already upgraded the fan and I just recently received Stainless steel nozzles from Sovol , I seen that it was opened up in notepad but I don't know how to format the script you provided into G code could you please help.
On windows? 1. Copy the lines from ;PID → ;END in the description 2. Paste it in an empty text file 3. Save as... 4. set "Save as type" to "All (*.*)" (encoding can stay UTF-8) 5. name file "NozzlePID.gcode" 6. on the printer just select to print NozzlePID
Exactly. You can find the GCODE in the description of this video. Just create a text file on a card, copy this, and rename the file PID.GCODE or similar. Then select the file as if you were printing it (nothing will print, but the printer might ask for filament to be loaded in the filament run-out sensor) Don't load filament in the extruder though!
You have the SV06 not the SV06+. The SV06+ and all newer Sovol printers use the more modern high-flow nozzles, the SV06 is the last Sovol model using the old style, MK8 nozzle, which limits printing speeds when using Klipper. For Marlin and PLA it is OK. For TPU or even PETG the high flow nozzle is recommended. The good news is that you can upgrade the SV06 toolhead with the SV06+ extruder! They are pinout compatible. Please see the link in the description to the SV06+ extruder. It is $55 (incl shipping). The high flow nozzel is capable of 25-30mm³/s volumetric flow, while the SV06 MK8 nozzles are limited to 10-15mm³/s. If you upgrade to the SV06+ extruder, your old SV06 extruder can still be used as spare parts for consumables like the extruder and part fans, stepper motors, planetary gears, breakout board and even possibly the thermistor. If you upgraded to Klipper, or planning to, I highly recommend this upgrade as well. See my video about Klipperizing SV06 in less than 20 minutes → ruclips.net/video/xoGxAHcYCVc/видео.html
For the bracket, which is way up from the heated bed, so I used PLA similar to Sovol colors. The fan duct itself if PETG. So far, I haven't encountered any issues, but I keep an eye on it. I primarily print with PLA and PETG, so the bed isn't heated above 70°C. However, when I print TPE, where the bed temperature can reach 90°C, I'll need to be cautious about not leaving the extruder too close to the bed for an extended period of time... I would print a fan duct using a more heat-resistant material, but currently, I don't have any.
@@gerGoPrint3D thank you so much for the quick reply I will have to look into getting some PETG for I am new to 3D printing and only have some PLA but again thank you.
@@zeuzerman Don't be afraid of PETG, in my experience it is even easier to print PETG than PLA on the Sovol SV06 Plus, as it sticks to the PEI bed even better.
@@gerGoPrint3D For cases the bed reaches temps about nearly 100°C i have printed my fanduct out of "Extrudr GreenTec pro" - works wonderful with high temperatures.
I am yet to learn more about their 4D printer 😅 But on the serious side: Have you tried contacting them on facebook? Join the SV06/SV06 Plus facebook group! I only had good experience. On facebook they respond within a few hours and go out of their ways to solve any issues. The community is also very helpful there, maybe the problem you are having has a simple solution.
The spare extruder is how I managed my SV-06. One with the .4 and one with a .2. I may look into the .6 nozzle to replace the .4.
Leve;ing with the back of the PEI sheet! Genius!
@brucoder How is the 0.2mm nozzle for fine detail on this printer?
@@3Skulls If you're asking about the standard 06, it's great for fine detail and didn't require a slowing of the print speed. I only tested 2 prints on the 06 Plus. While the detail was a bit sharper, I had to slow the print speed down to around 60mm/sec. Since I use the Plus for functional parts rather than decorative parts or minis, I just moved both the 06 Plus and 07 Plus to the .6 nozzle permanently.
@@RocktCityTim Oh, interesting. But isn't full speed on the regular SV06 something like 80mms, too? Or have you tweaked it to go faster?
@@3Skulls Klipper lets me hit 150 mm/sec easily.
@@RocktCityTim Oh wow, you're printing detailed minis with a 0.2mm nozzle at those speeds on the SV06? Amazing!
Alternate print head .. what a good idea! (using SV07+ here) BTW your content is excellent, truly :) Of course you are going to anticipate my next question would be whether CV's fantastic mods to Klipper would include alternate print heads.
I know it's an old video but I thought I'd comment anyway. I have a Sovol SV06 Plus and these videos have been really useful to me, thank you Mr. Gergo!
I switched from the 0.4 stock brass nozzle to a 0.6 nickel-plated copper nozzle, and am getting a lot of overextrusion and stringing. It seems the copper nozzle is more effective in heating the filament, even if it's just a regular nozzle, not a CHT. So I guess I have some tuning to do now...
Everything in this video still stands :) Yes, switching to a nozzle of a different size and different material will mean a lot of adjustments. I recommend using Orca Slicer's handy calibration tools to fine tune your temps, flow rates, new max volumetric speeds, retraction length and speed. I am planning to make a detailed video on these tests soon.
@@gerGoPrint3Di switched to a .6 nozzle and am getting lots of overextrusion. when i did the flow rate calibration in orca, i ended up with a flow rate of around 0.8, which seems very low. is this normal?
@@gerGoPrint3Dthis is an older video, but I just wanted to say that even though I like your channel quite a bit, I think changing a nozzle is a bit more complicated than this.
If the hotend is not an all metal *no metal throat with a bowden tube going all the way to the nozzle), you extually screw in the new nozzle leaving about a 1mm gap from the heater block, push the bowden tube til it meets the nozzle, mark the tube where the retention clip would be, remover and scuff the tube with a blade or rough sandpiper at your mark, reinsert the tube all the way and put the clip back on, then torque the nozzle as far as it will go against the tube (all while heated as you mentioned) (this is why new printers always have a gap)... if it's an all metal, you do the same space and torque method with the throat against the tube, then repeat with the nozzle against the throat... lastly, after it cools, you can see if it can be safely tightened a bit more.... isbis what has caused all of those leaks we see pictures of on the internet, tightening against the block with the space between the tube. Also slack 3D thermal paste improves results.
I think that the thermal paste that is used to put heat sinks on CPU's works just as well but I don't know about any viscosity differences.
@@spyrit35 Thank you for the detailed explanation. I did not know all of these needed to be done with all metal hotend too (there is no teflon inlining in this case). Since my video Sovol made a nozzle removal short video too, where they simply unscrewed the old nozzle and screwed the new one in its place. If anything, I at least heated the nozzle to 240 (I now recommend 270-280°C) while Sovol only heated to 200°C, which is clearly not enough.
The nozzle I installed in this video almost a year ago has been in service ever since, and works perfectly without any leakage or issue. I might have been lucky, but as far as I understand all-metal hotends can be swapped simply like this.
My SV07 Plus uses the same type of extruder, and I have replace nozzles in that printer several times using exactly the same procedure, no issues here either.
I know the process you described because my 5 year old Wanhao printer had this type of teflon lined MK4 type nozzle, it was a hassle to replace and you had to watch out for all these things you mention. But fortunately these Sovol printers are beyond this nozzle / hotend system.
In the new T300 and SV08 Sovol switched to using an integrated nozzle/heatblcok combo similar to the one use Bambu Lab printers use. Here the nozzle replacement is even easier, no preheating is neccessary as I understand (though I did not need to replace these yet).
Thank you again for your thorough comment, I am sure it will be helpful to owners of older printers.
Very helpful, thanks!
I did as you did in the video. Works great. Now i got a 3rd extruder with .8mm steel nozzle attached. Just need to find the proper settings for Cura with the .8 nozzle. Maybe you can make a video of your Cura settings.
I guess you could just do the same I did for the 0.6mm except go even higher (line width to 0.8-1.6mm, layer height between 0.4-0.6mm. I would raise nozzle temp by 10-15°C, cooling to max and will probably need to slow down a bit to make sure layers cool enough). I haven't tested my 0.8 nozzle yet.
Ill give it a try this weekend. Thanks for the input
worked fine in prusaslicer, i didn't need to write down any note or this or that, just changed extrusion width
Gergo, good video, and thanks for the cooling duct design. Please go ~290C or 300C i.e. very close to the hotend max temperature when changing nozzles.
Good tip, thank you!
Great guide, I want to put an e3d nozzle on mine but I heard I'll have to 3d print a new duct and trim the silicone sock. Subbed
The duct you see in this video can be raised by a few millimeters to create space for a shorter nozzle tip.
Good video. Thanks mate
Could you change the Sv06 extruder with the nextruder from the prusa mk4?
if you were only replacing the nozzle to 0.6 would you also need to run the calibration script?
No, unless the new nozzle is different material. But nozzle PID tuning only takes a few minutes...
It's crazy how your z offset was so low. Mine has never been below -1.16 and as whole as -1.33. Still not sure why mine is changing as I checked everything. I have a case in with Sovol.
It simply depends on how the ABL probe is mounted on the extruder. Each extruder will have a different value, and it also slightly changes with the nozzle you insert
Mine is currently at -1.55 I should figure out how to adjust it.
@@kylezakk What's the advantage of a smaller offset?
@@gerGoPrint3D absolutely nothing they are just surprised how 2 built items can be 10mm off but does not understand variance limits of acceptability in production lol
Hi, I have a problem with this piece, my filament got stuck in the entire hot end and I can't remove it because it's stuck between the nozzle and the cylindrical part that binds it, how can I do it? should I buy a new one?
Well, it is a good idea to have a spare extruder for any parts to be replaced. I talk about this in this very video. The link to the spare extruder is in the description of the video. But it can take weeks for it to get to you. You have a chance of salvaging if you heat the area with a heat gun or hair dryer (carefully), PLA softens around 60°C (PETG around 70°C) and you might be able to carefully peel it off. Be careful not to damage the thermistor / heater wires. Even if you do, it might only cost you an extra hotend. Try this before ordering, and if the hotend cannot be salvaged, order a spare extruder and also a replacement hotend. Ordering them together will avoid shipping costs. May the force be with you 🤓
@@gerGoPrint3D thank you so much your the number 1 😂🫶🏻
Hi, thank you very much for your reply! I solved the problem by disassembling the hotend and rolling the PLA wire cold. I helped myself with a nail of the same diameter, gently hitting us with a hammer. It was quite simple and I didn’t cause any damage. Now, in case the problem happens again, I already know how to proceed! 😇🫶
i swaped mine out to the microswiss valcano
I went with the sovol branded set, I felt $23 for 6 hardened steel nozzles is not a bad deal (shipping included), and I am planning to try the 0.8 and 1.0 nozzles in the pack as well. The fan duct could be raised for a regular volcano, but this way I did not have to trim the silicone sock
So depending on what nozzle you want to go to, like in this video you went to 0.6, would the g code change if you were to do a 0.8 nozzle?
Yes, you will need to adjust the nozzle in the extruder section of your machine settings in Cura, then adjust the line width under "Quality". You should also adjust your layer height as the recommended range also changes with the nozzle size (the optimal ratio between nozzle diameter and layer height is typically between 25% and 80% of the nozzle diameter)
@@gerGoPrint3D right but the copy and paste g code, where would one find that? I see the one in your description but if I were going to a bigger nozzle what would the g code change to or where could I find it? Or is it the one in your description? Thank you for the slicer setting recommendation that really helps
So, apart from changing z offset, e-steps, and pid values when you swap extruders, do you also have to perform auto bed level every time you switch?
I could possibly get away without it, but I do a z-align and bed leveling too.
Thanks for all the great videos.
Ive got the same Full Size SD adapter on my Sovol SV06+ ... When you remove the SD and add a new file and plug it back in does your Sovol recognize the new files? I have to reach down and eject the micro SD end and reinsert it to get the files to update. That normal or did I get the wrong adapter?
Yes, that's how it works with stock firmware. We have to power cycle the machine to refresh the card :( I am hoping Sovol adds a "refresh" button in the next update of the software (or it could just re-read the card every time we enter the print menu). My process now is that I write the card first on my PC, put it in the card reader, then turn the printer on.
Hi i'm still kinda new to 3D printing the PID Autotune I'm not familiar with how to add that to my machine I really would like to auto tune the machine being that I've already upgraded the fan and I just recently received Stainless steel nozzles from Sovol , I seen that it was opened up in notepad but I don't know how to format the script you provided into G code could you please help.
On windows?
1. Copy the lines from ;PID → ;END in the description
2. Paste it in an empty text file
3. Save as...
4. set "Save as type" to "All (*.*)" (encoding can stay UTF-8)
5. name file "NozzlePID.gcode"
6. on the printer just select to print NozzlePID
@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you
How do ya enjoy the 6 plus so far
i dont understand how used pid file, simple make a note put that g-code in and put in sd card and start to print?
Exactly. You can find the GCODE in the description of this video. Just create a text file on a card, copy this, and rename the file PID.GCODE or similar. Then select the file as if you were printing it (nothing will print, but the printer might ask for filament to be loaded in the filament run-out sensor) Don't load filament in the extruder though!
@@gerGoPrint3D i did this after i mount the 0.6 steel nozzle right?
@@PescatoreFocoso Yes. We have to teach the printer how the new nozzle responds to heating. That is what PID tuning is about :)
How’s the interface
my nozzles are a lot shorter
You have the SV06 not the SV06+. The SV06+ and all newer Sovol printers use the more modern high-flow nozzles, the SV06 is the last Sovol model using the old style, MK8 nozzle, which limits printing speeds when using Klipper. For Marlin and PLA it is OK. For TPU or even PETG the high flow nozzle is recommended.
The good news is that you can upgrade the SV06 toolhead with the SV06+ extruder! They are pinout compatible. Please see the link in the description to the SV06+ extruder. It is $55 (incl shipping). The high flow nozzel is capable of 25-30mm³/s volumetric flow, while the SV06 MK8 nozzles are limited to 10-15mm³/s.
If you upgrade to the SV06+ extruder, your old SV06 extruder can still be used as spare parts for consumables like the extruder and part fans, stepper motors, planetary gears, breakout board and even possibly the thermistor. If you upgraded to Klipper, or planning to, I highly recommend this upgrade as well. See my video about Klipperizing SV06 in less than 20 minutes → ruclips.net/video/xoGxAHcYCVc/видео.html
What did you print the new fan duct attachment out of?
For the bracket, which is way up from the heated bed, so I used PLA similar to Sovol colors. The fan duct itself if PETG. So far, I haven't encountered any issues, but I keep an eye on it. I primarily print with PLA and PETG, so the bed isn't heated above 70°C. However, when I print TPE, where the bed temperature can reach 90°C, I'll need to be cautious about not leaving the extruder too close to the bed for an extended period of time... I would print a fan duct using a more heat-resistant material, but currently, I don't have any.
@@gerGoPrint3D thank you so much for the quick reply I will have to look into getting some PETG for I am new to 3D printing and only have some PLA but again thank you.
@@zeuzerman Don't be afraid of PETG, in my experience it is even easier to print PETG than PLA on the Sovol SV06 Plus, as it sticks to the PEI bed even better.
@@gerGoPrint3D For cases the bed reaches temps about nearly 100°C i have printed my fanduct out of "Extrudr GreenTec pro" - works wonderful with high temperatures.
suprised you didnt undo the ribon cable its easy enough
What do you mean? The extruder ribbon cable? I kept it attached to heat up the nozzle
Some people don't use their brain before commenting.
terrible customers service one months waiting and for mind sovol 4d printer quality control sux my extruder not working and waiting for sovol reply
I am yet to learn more about their 4D printer 😅 But on the serious side: Have you tried contacting them on facebook? Join the SV06/SV06 Plus facebook group! I only had good experience. On facebook they respond within a few hours and go out of their ways to solve any issues. The community is also very helpful there, maybe the problem you are having has a simple solution.
@@gerGoPrint3D will try that
@@gerGoPrint3D still waiting for your sovol friend
U still use the 6 plus