Honestly Pete, you could have used a mini gun like the SRI or W100 series Iwata and have it do well. My airbrush has a rocker trigger button that you can control the amount of spray on the fly. Excellent presentation and final job Pete your a winner!
Hi mate, yeah, I know most of the stuff doesn't need an airbrush, but I find these so easy and quick to clean, change colour etc they are a joy to use so reach for them more and more these days, cheers buddy, appreciate it as always 👍
Thanks for delving into the airbrush world as I'm really into that side of painting now , I've done all the big stuff and loving this intricate side of paintwork 😊😊😊😊
Hi Dean, I hope you are well, mate. I agree. It's something people can do and get immense pleasure from without having to worry too much about the mess, smell, and associated problems of spraying at home. I am still getting into the airbrush world, I have a fair few and am using them more and more. I have absolutely no artistic temperament at all, so my uses are purely the sort of thing you see in this video. I've recently got an Eclipse HP G5, well, 6 months ago. This is a really fine atomisation airbrush in a gun form. It's amazing how fine it puts spray out, cheers, buddy 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 I've got quite a few double action brushes ie the creos range and there pistol 290 model I've got an old pachhe single action and I've just ordered the new h+s ultra 2024 and the brushing side is vastly different from painting big stuff it all boils down to trigger control but enjoying it imensely stick at the brushing side pete as you nailed big guns theres no more to learn cheers mate 😊😊
Hi Pete, first off a huge congrats for passing the 4k subs mate as it's well deserved and I hope the next 4k soon comes👏👏🤓👏👌 Those airbrushes are quite small in fact I think they are the smallest (shortest), I knew you can get single action ones but I thought they would be the same size as the normal ones, have to say those stencils look amazing Pete you did a great job designing them and your cutter/plotter seems to do a good job on them, as you mentioned the stencils did look difficult to remove but I think you said you had some low tack paper which should help🤞 It would be nice to see those parts being clear coated as I bet they will look really nice👌 thanks for sharing Pete🙏👍
Hi John, and thanks mate, yes, went over 4k subs and 1 million views about the same time, more than I could have hoped for, really. Yeah, I love using my plotter. It's great fun and really useful on the bike side of things. The stencil material pulls away quite easily. The problem I get is that the transfer paper/vinyl is too tacky, not a problem on this one but a real pain with intricate stuff, particularly small letters, as it tries to pull the stencil away when you peel it back, a low tack one should do it I hope. Cheers John, hope the new acquisitions are going OK 👍
Yeah your channel is doing really well mate lets hope you soon reach the 8K mark👌I think you said in the video that you are upgrading your plotter to a newer model but I might be wrong🤔 I hope the new low tack transfer paper works better for you. I've just uploaded another video mate and the next 2 wings will be the 2 brand new ones I bought then I have 2 second hand wings to try and fix for paint🤞I also hope to start on the new (to me anyway) fuel tanks but the chrome paint work will probably have to wait until after Xmas as I still need to get more paint and candy🧐cheers Pete👍
@JohnWD40TC02 Hi John, nearly right 😂, I'm not getting a new plotter, but I did mention the manufacturer has just bought out a new model. They all use the same software, so it's easy to switch, but I'm really happy with mine, so I won't change until something goes wrong. Cheers, mate
Hi David, I use my standard Kapci basecoat scheme, which is normally 1 to 1 reduced at 1 to 2, which seems to work fine. I use the same for metallic paint as well, I think the only time you would get into trouble is with a very course metallic and a 0.3 nozzle, certainly 0.4 and definitely 0.5 you can put most things through without worrying as I have mini sprayguns in those sizes and haven't had problems of any kind, cheers mate, hope alls well 👍
@movaughn20 Hi mate, I use the Upol 2003 on plastics, which seems fine. I've been using it for years. I use Cromax 805R Flex additive on parts that are more flexible, that's added to the primer, paint, and clear, but any flex additive should be ok
Hi Pete, Good video and interesting. I've recently bought a cheapy Ebay special for £16 to see how I get on, and so far it's been good. Obviously the quality and flow aren't brilliant, but a good place to have a try. Not sure yet how much I'll use it, but will probably upgrade to an Iwata in the future. Suggestion - a video on using your vinyl cutter and making masks with it would be good? Good stuff, Jono
Hi Jono, I think the main difference between the cheaper airbrushs and the more expensive is the atomisation, control, and of course the longevity. It is certainly a good place to start and is often all people need. I have thought about doing a video on the cutting process, going into the way I use the software, etc, as there is virtually nothing on the Silhouette machines being used for vehicle decals. I've downloaded a program on my PC to allow me to follow the steps, so hopefully, I can sort something out. I delayed getting a plotter for ages as I didn't think I would have the time to learn to use the software, but it was quite straightforward, so I wish I had done it years ago. Cheers mate 👍
Yes Pete please. I'd happily invest in a vinyl cutter if I thought I could get to grips with it. I like the idea of making my own stickers and or masks etc'. Just a quick thought;- would a little heat from your hot air gun soften the glue slightly and make removing the stencil a little easier? Cheers Jono
@jonnow1234 Yeah, I will get round to it. Hopefully, soon as a few people have asked. The stencil is actually easy to remove, I just took it slowly as the wording at the base is very thin lined and didn't want to undo all the work. The problem is with the application paper, not a worry on this particular job but very annoying on intricate stuff. The transfer tape pulls the stencil material off the work when you are removing it so it take ages to get the transfer tape off, so I've ordered a low tack version which should make life much easier, the stuff I use at the moment is all medium tack which works fine for all the normal vinyl
Hi Pete. Could. You recommend an airbrush not gun with a high flow rate and larger paint cup. I have seen one before but can't remember its make and model. It could spay 2 patterns I remember. Cheers
HI David, normally the high flow air brushes are 0.5mm , the only airbrush I have that has two different nozzles in the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR I mentioned in the video which has 0.15 an 0.4 so probably won't be enough and I wouldn't recommend it anyway. The one Rob and Dean recommend looks like it could fit the bill as it 0.5 and has 2 end nozzles, it a trigger type, like the Iwata TR1/TR2 which I like using as it feels more intuitive if you are used to spray guns, I'm not familiar with PS 290 but Rob knows his stuff so it's going to be a good recommendation I would think. The Iwata HP-CR is also good, especially for the money. It doesn't have 2 different end caps, but it is a 0.5mm, so it's flowing
Hi Pete! just to be sure, did you clear and sand all these parts to seal your yellow base before doing the airbrush work? I think you mentioned it at 17:17 but my english isn't good enough to be sure I understood what you said 😅 Thanks!
Yes, mate, in this particular case, I did, but not always. If it's a more complicated set of decals, it's a good insurance policy to clear the base colour first. That way, you can simply clean all or some of stencil work off.
Ive been using iwata airbrushes for years i have an eclipse with .35 .5 and the iwata hi-line .3 and .23 great airbrushes favorite brand just bought the kwami 4 1.3 on your recommendations was going to order a wider 4 1.4 the prices have been going up fast its 170 as of today wich would be better for base and wich for clear kwami for base wider for clear thanks
Hi Cody, I would go Kiwami4 for base and Wider4 for clear, they will obviously both do both but that's the way I would go, the Wider4 seems a bit quicker, because of its smaller wetter pattern so be prepared for that and you'll be fine. I am thinking of getting a Hi-Line. I don't need one, but I want one 😂🤣
Do it it's worth it great airbrush Mac valve tales some getting used to but it's like the micron for half the price I love mine I'd recomend the hp-ch has the bigger cup it comes in handy
Pete I often spray air cooled 2T engine cylinders. Currently using a Satajet 3000, and 2K epoxy hi temp paint. I wonder if I might be better off using a full size gravity feed gun, able to put on more material? Takes a very long time with the 3000, and the paint needs to thinned quite a bit, to go through the Sata. I have an old suction feed GTI, but the epoxy paint I use is very costly, so gravity would be better. Wonder if you can suggest anything please?
Hi Pete, just a question,I'm always trying to perfect my spraying and final finish on my jobs, alot of the time after I've painted something with alot of metallic flake in it, when I come to lay the clear ontop, some of the metallic protrudes through and looks gritty, so a heavy second coat covers most of it up, i use 190micron filters for all my paint do you think if I switched to something finer I won't have that problem? Cheers
Hi mate, a 190 filter should be fine. It's all I use for most paint except Candy colours, where it's a 125 micron. it sounds like the paint is going on too dry, normally you will do 2 or 3 wet coats, so the metallic lays down followed buy a quick drop coat to help the metallic stand up slightly if it needs it, however that is normally easily covered by the clear coat, depending on the clear and application method in the TDS, it should cover it more or less on the first coat. I presume we are talking about normal factory colours and not custom paints, some of these custom paints with big flakes will sit proud anyway but then you wouldn't use a filter at all as the particles are big needing a 1.9 upwards spray gun
Hi buddy, for something like I was doing here, then the LPH50 would have been fine. You have to be careful because as the gun gets bigger, the more air it flows, which can mean more extensive masking needed to protect the other paintwork. I've literally just got the RG-3L. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but I am looking forward to trying it and making a video of the differences between that and the LPH50, and hopefully, the Iwata HP G3 0.3
@ritchieworrell8595 Got ya, There's no handle, the are just a short little air brush, very easy to use and keep clean, not as much control as a double action air brush but I don't find that a problem, they are much more usable and far more intuitive if you used to spray guns
Honestly Pete, you could have used a mini gun like the SRI or W100 series Iwata and have it do well. My airbrush has a rocker trigger button that you can control the amount of spray on the fly. Excellent presentation and final job Pete your a winner!
Hi mate, yeah, I know most of the stuff doesn't need an airbrush, but I find these so easy and quick to clean, change colour etc they are a joy to use so reach for them more and more these days, cheers buddy, appreciate it as always 👍
Thanks for delving into the airbrush world as I'm really into that side of painting now , I've done all the big stuff and loving this intricate side of paintwork 😊😊😊😊
Hi Dean, I hope you are well, mate. I agree. It's something people can do and get immense pleasure from without having to worry too much about the mess, smell, and associated problems of spraying at home.
I am still getting into the airbrush world, I have a fair few and am using them more and more.
I have absolutely no artistic temperament at all, so my uses are purely the sort of thing you see in this video.
I've recently got an Eclipse HP G5, well, 6 months ago. This is a really fine atomisation airbrush in a gun form. It's amazing how fine it puts spray out, cheers, buddy 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 I've got quite a few double action brushes ie the creos range and there pistol 290 model I've got an old pachhe single action and I've just ordered the new h+s ultra 2024 and the brushing side is vastly different from painting big stuff it all boils down to trigger control but enjoying it imensely stick at the brushing side pete as you nailed big guns theres no more to learn cheers mate 😊😊
Great, now I have to buy a new airbrush... Thanks! Ha ha
Now that sounds costly 🤣😂, but you know you want one 😉
Hi Pete, first off a huge congrats for passing the 4k subs mate as it's well deserved and I hope the next 4k soon comes👏👏🤓👏👌
Those airbrushes are quite small in fact I think they are the smallest (shortest), I knew you can get single action ones but I thought they would be the same size as the normal ones, have to say those stencils look amazing Pete you did a great job designing them and your cutter/plotter seems to do a good job on them, as you mentioned the stencils did look difficult to remove but I think you said you had some low tack paper which should help🤞
It would be nice to see those parts being clear coated as I bet they will look really nice👌 thanks for sharing Pete🙏👍
Hi John, and thanks mate, yes, went over 4k subs and 1 million views about the same time, more than I could have hoped for, really.
Yeah, I love using my plotter. It's great fun and really useful on the bike side of things.
The stencil material pulls away quite easily. The problem I get is that the transfer paper/vinyl is too tacky, not a problem on this one but a real pain with intricate stuff, particularly small letters, as it tries to pull the stencil away when you peel it back, a low tack one should do it I hope.
Cheers John, hope the new acquisitions are going OK 👍
Yeah your channel is doing really well mate lets hope you soon reach the 8K mark👌I think you said in the video that you are upgrading your plotter to a newer model but I might be wrong🤔 I hope the new low tack transfer paper works better for you.
I've just uploaded another video mate and the next 2 wings will be the 2 brand new ones I bought then I have 2 second hand wings to try and fix for paint🤞I also hope to start on the new (to me anyway) fuel tanks but the chrome paint work will probably have to wait until after Xmas as I still need to get more paint and candy🧐cheers Pete👍
@JohnWD40TC02 Hi John, nearly right 😂, I'm not getting a new plotter, but I did mention the manufacturer has just bought out a new model.
They all use the same software, so it's easy to switch, but I'm really happy with mine, so I won't change until something goes wrong. Cheers, mate
Great video, Pete.
I do wonder what mix ratio you use with such a small needle. Thanks
Hi David, I use my standard Kapci basecoat scheme, which is normally 1 to 1 reduced at 1 to 2, which seems to work fine.
I use the same for metallic paint as well, I think the only time you would get into trouble is with a very course metallic and a 0.3 nozzle, certainly 0.4 and definitely 0.5 you can put most things through without worrying as I have mini sprayguns in those sizes and haven't had problems of any kind, cheers mate, hope alls well 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 Curious what kinda adhesion promoter you use on the plastic fender? Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
@movaughn20 Hi mate, I use the Upol 2003 on plastics, which seems fine. I've been using it for years.
I use Cromax 805R Flex additive on parts that are more flexible, that's added to the primer, paint, and clear, but any flex additive should be ok
@@peteshobbies5383 Thank you so much!
@movaughn20 You're welcome, buddy 👍
Nice, I look forward to seeing it all cleared up! Stencils.... great when it goes well! :P
Hi buddy, yes, always a bit of hesitation when uncovering it all, just in case something has gone wrong 🫣, cheers mate, appreciate it 👍
Hi Pete,
Good video and interesting. I've recently bought a cheapy Ebay special for £16 to see how I get on, and so far it's been good. Obviously the quality and flow aren't brilliant, but a good place to have a try.
Not sure yet how much I'll use it, but will probably upgrade to an Iwata in the future.
Suggestion - a video on using your vinyl cutter and making masks with it would be good?
Good stuff, Jono
Hi Jono, I think the main difference between the cheaper airbrushs and the more expensive is the atomisation, control, and of course the longevity.
It is certainly a good place to start and is often all people need.
I have thought about doing a video on the cutting process, going into the way I use the software, etc, as there is virtually nothing on the Silhouette machines being used for vehicle decals.
I've downloaded a program on my PC to allow me to follow the steps, so hopefully, I can sort something out.
I delayed getting a plotter for ages as I didn't think I would have the time to learn to use the software, but it was quite straightforward, so I wish I had done it years ago. Cheers mate 👍
Yes Pete please. I'd happily invest in a vinyl cutter if I thought I could get to grips with it. I like the idea of making my own stickers and or masks etc'.
Just a quick thought;- would a little heat from your hot air gun soften the glue slightly and make removing the stencil a little easier? Cheers Jono
@jonnow1234 Yeah, I will get round to it. Hopefully, soon as a few people have asked.
The stencil is actually easy to remove, I just took it slowly as the wording at the base is very thin lined and didn't want to undo all the work.
The problem is with the application paper, not a worry on this particular job but very annoying on intricate stuff.
The transfer tape pulls the stencil material off the work when you are removing it so it take ages to get the transfer tape off, so I've ordered a low tack version which should make life much easier, the stuff I use at the moment is all medium tack which works fine for all the normal vinyl
That'll be great Pete. Very much enjoying your videos and learning loads. Thank you J
Hello mate . I use a V Fan air brush down here.....its vert good for smart repairs....Cheers from Kiwi
Hi mate, I hope alls well with you over there, is that the one they sell that runs via a can of air, suction feed?
Hi Pete. Could. You recommend an airbrush not gun with a high flow rate and larger paint cup. I have seen one before but can't remember its make and model. It could spay 2 patterns I remember.
Cheers
Have a look at the ps 290 by creos it has a fan cap and spot cap
@@dredfxcustompaintHi rob good advice I've got one lovely thing it is 😊😊
HI David, normally the high flow air brushes are 0.5mm , the only airbrush I have that has two different nozzles in the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR I mentioned in the video which has 0.15 an 0.4 so probably won't be enough and I wouldn't recommend it anyway.
The one Rob and Dean recommend looks like it could fit the bill as it 0.5 and has 2 end nozzles, it a trigger type, like the Iwata TR1/TR2 which I like using as it feels more intuitive if you are used to spray guns, I'm not familiar with PS 290 but Rob knows his stuff so it's going to be a good recommendation I would think.
The Iwata HP-CR is also good, especially for the money. It doesn't have 2 different end caps, but it is a 0.5mm, so it's flowing
@dredfxcustompaint Thanks Rob, looks like a good value airbrush 👍
Yes hi Rob, thats the one, I thought I had seen it on Petes channel. Must have been yous Rob. Thanks both I will purchase it soon.
Hi Pete! just to be sure, did you clear and sand all these parts to seal your yellow base before doing the airbrush work? I think you mentioned it at 17:17 but my english isn't good enough to be sure I understood what you said 😅
Thanks!
Yes, mate, in this particular case, I did, but not always. If it's a more complicated set of decals, it's a good insurance policy to clear the base colour first. That way, you can simply clean all or some of stencil work off.
Ive been using iwata airbrushes for years i have an eclipse with .35 .5 and the iwata hi-line .3 and .23 great airbrushes favorite brand just bought the kwami 4 1.3 on your recommendations was going to order a wider 4 1.4 the prices have been going up fast its 170 as of today wich would be better for base and wich for clear kwami for base wider for clear thanks
Hi Cody, I would go Kiwami4 for base and Wider4 for clear, they will obviously both do both but that's the way I would go, the Wider4 seems a bit quicker, because of its smaller wetter pattern so be prepared for that and you'll be fine.
I am thinking of getting a Hi-Line. I don't need one, but I want one 😂🤣
Do it it's worth it great airbrush Mac valve tales some getting used to but it's like the micron for half the price I love mine I'd recomend the hp-ch has the bigger cup it comes in handy
@codyreynolds6333 Oh dear, I feel a purchase coming on 😂🤣👍
Pete I often spray air cooled 2T engine cylinders. Currently using a Satajet 3000, and 2K epoxy hi temp paint. I wonder if I might be better off using a full size gravity feed gun, able to put on more material? Takes a very long time with the 3000, and the paint needs to thinned quite a bit, to go through the Sata. I have an old suction feed GTI, but the epoxy paint I use is very costly, so gravity would be better. Wonder if you can suggest anything please?
I spray a lot of epoxy and have good luck with 2.0 tips. It's nasty stuff and sprays nicely at 1 to 1. My 2 cents...
Hi mate, what size tip do you normally use, or what is the tip size recommended on the material TDS? , let me know, and I'll try and suggest something
Hi Pete, just a question,I'm always trying to perfect my spraying and final finish on my jobs, alot of the time after I've painted something with alot of metallic flake in it, when I come to lay the clear ontop, some of the metallic protrudes through and looks gritty, so a heavy second coat covers most of it up, i use 190micron filters for all my paint do you think if I switched to something finer I won't have that problem? Cheers
Hi mate, a 190 filter should be fine. It's all I use for most paint except Candy colours, where it's a 125 micron.
it sounds like the paint is going on too dry, normally you will do 2 or 3 wet coats, so the metallic lays down followed buy a quick drop coat to help the metallic stand up slightly if it needs it, however that is normally easily covered by the clear coat, depending on the clear and application method in the TDS, it should cover it more or less on the first coat.
I presume we are talking about normal factory colours and not custom paints, some of these custom paints with big flakes will sit proud anyway but then you wouldn't use a filter at all as the particles are big needing a 1.9 upwards spray gun
Is the round patterns on something like the LPH-50 useful for stencils? That question make me wornder about the RG3L?
Hi buddy, for something like I was doing here, then the LPH50 would have been fine. You have to be careful because as the gun gets bigger, the more air it flows, which can mean more extensive masking needed to protect the other paintwork.
I've literally just got the RG-3L. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but I am looking forward to trying it and making a video of the differences between that and the LPH50, and hopefully, the Iwata HP G3 0.3
Yes but i use my small compressor.....sprays 1/8 of a inch to 3 inch wide fan....Not cheap to buy...Cheers
That's quite a range for an airbrush. You're giving me ideas now 😂, cheers, buddy, take care 👍
Like the PH 80 mini gun, but better
Why no handle?
Hi Mate, Handle? I'm not sure what you mean
@@peteshobbies5383
I’m thinking if buying one. However, there looks like there is a place to attach a handle to the back end but none attached.
@ritchieworrell8595 Got ya, There's no handle, the are just a short little air brush, very easy to use and keep clean, not as much control as a double action air brush but I don't find that a problem, they are much more usable and far more intuitive if you used to spray guns
@@peteshobbies5383
Thanks for the info. Stay safe😎
@ritchieworrell8595 You're welcome, buddy 👍