Restoring my blacksmiths anvil

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In this episode, I bring back to working condition, my antique, wrought iron, 189Lb John Brooks blacksmiths anvil.

[@jimmysblacksmithing3265]

Hey good day, good video.That is a beautiful anvil you have. Looks to be an old one. possibly mid 19th century. Give or take. Thanks for sharing that with us all. Stay well keep up the good work and have a beautiful day. Jim

[@forging]

Cheers👍

[@taja9696]

Intended perverse? :):):):)
Good job, useful commentary!

[@forging]

👍😁🤪

[@KeithBair]

I'm only 20 minutes in to your video and I had to pause it to make a quick comment related to this time frame in your video. I just wanted to say that you're talking about not using the heel as much, so you are going to grind down the face closer to the horn to bring the face to square. In my opinion, you'd be better off grinding the face over the heel end to bring the face back flat. This way you are removing hardened steel in the area you aren't using as much, and leaving the hardened face steel over the area that sees the most use full thickness. Just a quick note I wanted to make. Loving your video so far, especially being a blacksmith myself and your straightforward, knowledgeable take on this project and making the anvil become the tool you need. Now back to finish the video

[@KeithBair]

Finished your video, very good! I love how you made the point at the end about how you haven't ruined the tool, you made it better by adding the features of the radii on the face edges. I got my hands on a 145 pound cast steel West anvil in like new condition, and several years of forging led to very chipped edges. Granted I was in my learning curve, but it shows how much stress those sharp corners take. I ground mine to about 1/4 inch radius by the chisel plate tapering to square a few inches before the hardy, just before the end of the "sweet spot" so I can still do heavy forging over a 90 degree edge. I like the tapered radius as it gives so many options for radius size.
I'm currently working on rebuilding a 171 pound mouse hole anvil and am debating on starting with radiused corners, or square corners and modify as I see the need. The face plat is cracked and delaminating, im currently filling the missing face plate areas with mild steel mig wire and have Stoody hard facing rods to do a solid underlayment and cap weld once I have the face back to square. Picked her up for about $1 a pound. When I'm done, none of the original face will be exposed unfortunately.

[@forging]

Thanks for watching👍

[@forging]

Keep hammering👍

[@thomasbeckett1245]

The approach is ok... but a file would do that easier

[@forging]

Thanks for the comment... and a happy new year👍

[@derikeferreira7706]

1954?

[@forging]

Thanks for watching