Blacksmithing anvils and anvil substitutes
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Anvils are the base on which all other tools are forged. They are n indispensable item in the blacksmith shop. If you can't locate or afford a conventional anvil there are some anvil substitutes and anvil like objects that can be put to good use. Lets take a look at the anvils that I have available in my shop and then we will surf the internet to look at new anvils.
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The following list provides just a few resources to help you find supplies and equipment for blacksmithing.
www.piehtoolco....
www.centaurforg...
www.blacksmith...
www.blacksmithb...
www.oldworldan...
www.nimbaanvils...
fontaninianvila...
www.abana.org/
www.mcmaster.com
kensironstore....
Blacksmithing and related activities can be hazardous. These videos are not a substitute for competent professional instruction. Your safety is your sole responsibility. Always use appropriate safety equipment including eye and ear protection when working in the shop. Follow manufactures safety guidelines for the use of all equipment. In the event something shown in one of these videos seems unsafe, it is up to you to make the appropriate changes to protect yourself.
I work for a railroad contractor, we have tons of scrap rail that we give away to people for this very purpose or for a drag behind their tractor if it's 8ft long
That is good to know. Is there a specific way for people to get in touch with the right people in their area?
Railworks, is a US and Canadian railroad contractor with offices all over. I suspect you would want crane rail or "big" rail. Just look them up and call and ask
Thank you.
Hey any chance you could get me a few pieces for rail I live in ontario canada
In Fort Worth area I believe it's Burlington northern... What department would I ask for?
You say at one time you thought to teach classes but that didn't work out. Well . . . these videos have been the best teacher my 15 yr old son and I could have asked for. Thanks for passing down your experience and knowledge.
Thanks. Know I can reach so many more people by video is one reason I never really got serious about teaching classes.
I can confirm, ask the maintenance crew for old track! Throw in a case of beer and they might even slice a piece off to your liking! The RR are always throwing out old track anyway.
My first anvil was a 12" piece of rail track but i welded it directly over one leg of my metal table , it worked very well being welded to the table helped alot
I'd been pondering what would be my first anvil...A buddy if mine is likely this state's #1 train enthusiast and told me to kinda drop his name at a RR museum but I hesitated for some reason. I bought a cheap cast iron anvilette at a discount tool place and set it on a lighter by the fire bit. Pretty poor but the guys each got to strike hot metal. I'll leave that one out there for them to hack on. This morning I helped an 80 year old buddy move some very heavy petrified wood to new house and I asked if he had an anvil laying around, but guy said he did and he did!
I picked up a KL cast steel made in England 70kg for 77c/lb.
Cleaned it up with flapper in angle grinder and it's factory faced with a plate. It's already an heirloom and has such a beautiful ring to it. Thanks again for posting these exceptional videos!!
I saw the photo you sent, Nice anvil find
Man its a shame you never did teach. You do a great job. Love the channel.. love the vid. Great info
Thank you. I wouldn't rule it out in the future, but it would need to be someplace set up for it.
@@BlackBearForge If you haven't checked into it yet, check with your local junior college if there is one. They might consider starting a blacksmithing course if they had a qualified person like you to teach the hands on part and could find someone to teach the theory section in a classroom (if you weren't so inclined) [or they needed someone with paper credentials, if you don't have them].
I admire your familiarity and intimacy with the anvil. And your exposition is packed with solid information. Great stuff. Thanks for sharing.
You mentioned that classes didn't work out earlier in the video. Yet, you now have a class of students very different than you imagined. And, you are a great teacher. Very natural and knowledgeable. Well done! Great video! Very helpful! And by the way, have you considered developing a class that helps others get started? A place to start blacksmithing? In today's world, you would find your experience and style of teaching to be highly effective. Consider it a possibility...
I couldn't agree with you more. Simple, clear and straightforward, without the _silliness_ we have to suffer from so MANY Y-T content creators ! Well said !
As a full time welder I had the skill and the tools to take some RR track (which I came up on when a warehouse nearby was having their old tracks replaced) and weld it to the top of a stand I fashioned out of some sch40 steam pipe and an old plough disk. I cut and ground a nice horn on the front, though it's still flat on top and not very useful, and I drilled a 3/4" hole in the heel for punching (also made a small hot cut hardy to fit in.) I welded some 1/2" to the web of the track to add some beefiness to the ASO and spent a couple hours grinding down the top of the track to make a nice flat face (the very old rail was rounded off heavily on one side.)
I have made a lot of leaves, corkscrews, bottle openers and even some bench legs on that little "anvil" of mine. Yet I feel that I become more serious as a blacksmith, I need to get more serious in the tools that I use. Right now i'm looking at buying a "mid-grade" anvil from either Emerson, TFS or JHM in the 120-200lb range to upgrade my shop. They range in price from about $700-1200
I had multiple anvils when I was younger, including a 130 lb Peter wright, but since retiring and moving I now only have a 55 lb trip hammer die I use that belonged to my grandfather. He was a blacksmith pre and post WWI in Ohio. He concaved 1 end of it to form wagon tires and act as a horn.
I just wanted to take,a,moment and,thank you,for all the vidio and information you are passing on to us newbies! Sincerely heath at Shepardsforge
You are most welcome
Why so many commas
the random guy why do you care? Find a hoby or be a book editor.
I'm a machinist, 30 years now I've always wanted a anvil. I still haven't been able to get one. I learned a lot from your video. Thanks for your informative video.
I am no blacksmith, but as a woodworker it is nice to be able to just be able to do some basic forging, I got a nice piece of railroad track on a train museum, they always have more track than they can put on their yard
Im working a lot of overtime to buy a propper anvil! Cant wait to have it and start
Great advice and knowledge. Thanks for sharing
As I am not a rich man, I use an old Lug nut from an freightliner as an anvil substitute.
Wish I could send you a picture but I use it for making arrowheads ,blades .
I am relatively new to metal works but it's portable and can be mounted into a tree stump , so I can cold hammer on the fly, or in conjunction with a forge.
It heated up a bit , so i leave the bolt out for air flow.
Awesome video. Glad I went back and looked up some oldies.
My first anvil was a 1"x4" block of steel, then a rail track anvil, upgraded to a 100 Columbia, sold it for a 100lb Emerson. Now I'm using a 50kg Church Window Anvil from Old World. I am looking at the delivery of a TFS 200lb smithy special for my larger work. Everything was bought with money generated from my blacksmithing and bladesmithing work. However, despite the anvils I have purchased I find myself using the massive 110lb 4140 block (I made it to look like a sawyers anvil) a lot of the time.
Sounds like you have plenty of options. Thats a big hunk of 4140.
The main reason for rebound in your anvil is for longevity of work, it takes away the effort of raising your hammer all day long, so basically if you're a hobbyist blacksmith ANYTHING will work, but if you're planning on forging all day. You need an anvil to not destroy your body
You are interpreting rebound differently than I tried to explain it. It isn't about so much helping lift the hammer back up as it is reflecting energy back into the work. If your work piece absorbs all of the energy from the hammer blow rebound doesn't do anything. But it is very unlikely that the work will absorb all of that energy. If the energy is absorbed by the anvil it is lost, but if the anvil reflects that energy back into the piece you are working on there is more effect on the work being done and you can get more work done with the same amount of effort. You can certainly get by with very little, but you just have to put more into it.
I'm not necessarily disagreeing with You at all, just tossing out different perspective more for people to understand that they in no means as a hobbyist blacksmith have to buy an anvil
I love your videos and learn a ton from You, I appreciate it tremendously!
Thanks. While I agree that a hobbyist doesn't need a classical anvil, I would also suggest that the closer to that ideal size and form you can achieve, the easier it will make your experience, bit in learning and physically. Even a few hundred years ago those smiths that were stretching the boundaries of the known world made due with very small blocky stake anvils. But the smiths in permanent shops had anvils very similar to what we know today.
Agreed
I live in Alaska, my Anvil is built out of a train bumper from the Alaska Railroad. it's about a foot and a half thick, needed two tanks of oxygen to push through on the torch.
Recently bought an 18" length of, what appears to be, medium-sized railroad track for $20.
Even being later in life, I'd like to give metal shaping a go. If nothing else it will be a better surface than I have had in the past to smack metal for projects.
One of my sons is interested in this too. He has problems getting hired so this might be an option.
Lots of people start out with a section of rail. Mounting it as solid and immovable as possible will help a great deal.
If I were to recommend an anvil brand to someone it would have to be Refflinghaus. They are cast steel, made in Germany and sold in the US. They seem to be the highest quality, though the price also reflects that.
You are correct and I had meant to include the Refflinghaus anvils in my discussion.
This is the anvil brand that I want I might even get the hornless anvil I already have a Hays Budden 150lb anvil but not in the best of shape
i got myself a nice 50lb one to start. it's new and i have to surface it properly with a flap disk before i can use it.
addendum: i picked it up at princess auto (canada's harbor freight BUT with *less* chinesium) it's a good anvil, solid cast steel.
New come to the trade. So personal Opinion might not mean much, but sure appreciate your time and knowledge. your are an excellent trainer. many thanks.
Welcome aboard!
Wow, some of these prices holy cow. That simple railroad rail sounds more and more enticing to get.
Since this video was done there have been some new budget friendly anvils showing upon the market. Such as this 66 pound anvil from Vevor s.vevor.com/bfQxZJ Should be much better than a chunk of rail.
@@BlackBearForge Ah, very nice! Now that's a price I can afford and seems like the perfect Anvil for starting Blacksmithing. Thanks!
I have a couple railroad anvils(no horns),A 1930's anvil vice(vice is long gone)Steel and pretty heavy for its size.I also have a 1912 vice anvil(i mainly bought it since it was a nice piece to have around)i use it to true up stuff since its flat compaird to the railroad anvils but i think its cast iron and no ring to it what so ever i also have the solid cylinder hunk of metal about 9 inches long and probably 4 inches in radius and it worked well for a while though i had to put it in a vise to hold it.
But i must say all of the stuff now is far better than the 2x2 inch of steel i started out with lol.
Thanks for sharing,your knowledge is a blessing.
Sounds like a fairly good collection of anvil like things to work on. That chunk of 4" round set in a stand of some form would be pretty solid.
ill get my dream anvil some day!Its a hobby for me but i would like to grow with it a lot more though.I have almost everything else that i need.When i do get a traditional anvil ill probably use the others when i have a friend over to let them learn some blacksmithing.
Always wanted the one with the shelf after i seen it.
I have seen videos about forging kuhkri knives on sledge heads set in concrete. I don't have a link, but a search for "forging a kuhkri" should get you there. I forget the Asian country where the video was made. It was very impressive
Wow i missed out on maybe meeting you on person, i lived in colorado 2 years ago and was looking for people to learn more about blacksmithing. Never made it any further south than the spings though. So glad i found your video!
To my h to see a real black Smith and to share some of knowledge massive
I have a 200+lb Peter wright and a 170lb Mouse Hole both in great shape. My favorite anvil is a 200lb 5x14x12 block of mild steel I got from a steel supply for like pennies on the pound. It was a torch cutoff, but I don't care because that's just better grip on the stump i have it mounted on. I use it almost daily and haven't put any significant dents or chips in it, and if I do, it's 10 minutes with a flap wheel to take care of it.
Just found your channel, I am glad I did. You have some good info
Welcome aboard!
Thank you for sharing.
Great video, thanks!
I'm still looking for that affordable Little Giant power hammer. Funny, I don't think there is such a thing.
Whoah..
where'd you come from at the beginning there made me jump, :D
Big Blu Hammer also sales there own Germany style two horn anvil.
I would think they would be of high quality. There hammers are.
Great video👍 How about making a video on how to resurface an anvil. Also would love to have you do a video tour of your shop; tools machinery etc. Keep up the great work👍👍
ruclips.net/video/imjflnYEbg4/видео.html
I like anvil❤❤
Thank you soooo much. Great video!!!!!
You're welcome
Sure, for forge welding you can use a sledgehammer anvil. You won't be striking that hard, and the chance to miss is minimal. However I wouldn't advice to use a sledgehammer, or any hammer that could be hardened as an anvil, since if you strike a hardened hammer on another hardened hammer, chips may fly off that can cause severely injuries. It's like someone is shooting bullets through your shop. At all times avoid hammer on hammer contact when striking hard.
You had another video about blacksmithing rules, I only have 1 rule for blacksmithing I don't stray from : safety first.
Love you man from dublin ireland
Thanks
Luck to have you
Thanks
Would like to see how a floor come mandrel is made.
A newer company that makes and sells anvils made from 4150/4140 cast steel is Atlas Knife and Tool they also have an anvil style that has never been tried before with a built in swage on the base the 67 lb is 300 and the 117 Graham is 450
My anvil like object is a piece of steel they anchored machinery to the floors with. 4inches wide, about an inch and a half thick and 4ft long with two round bolt holes in it I use for hardy tools. It is about 80lbs or so, I welded some angle iron to it and bolted it to a stack of 6x6 posts. Works great.
Sounds like a workable solution
So, I got a “value” anvil. It was a bit of a gamble but for 110lb anvil I was willing to take the risk. 360$ It’s 50hrc, 110 lbs and I’m actually impressed. Hasn’t taken a single ding and I miss…. A lot. I cant really afford to get a 1000$+ anvil but if it goes bad maybe by then I’ll have some more extra dough! Something to think about. And better than nothing!
It is forged steel. I’m sure it’s got something funky going on. Considering the price. But still.
I'm so lucky to live in Germany😅 I actually got two anvils. A 300# for around 70$ and a 160# for about 50$ but those where bargains here too😅👍
I have come to believe that there are many more good old tools in your part of the world than there are in mine.
In Australia???? I'm thinking a railroad track? I can't afford anything? I'm saving up for a blacksmith course at 750AUD. And a knife sharpening course so I can start a small business!
Hello! Im from the Netherlands and im a big fan of your vids! Learned a lot. I Build a gas forge not long ago and with your video explaining about gas forges and the size of the propane tank, that fixt a problem that i coudnt fixed. (To small propane tank, limited time proper forging) Im realy looking forward on your video about dressing your anvil / or welding? Because my double Horn anvil ( about 150kilo) needs fixing on the edges and in the middle of the face its dimpled.
Sorry for the bad english ! Keep on forging.
Greetings Luuk
never be concerned about the English, we know what you are saying....good to hear from you in the Netherlands :-)
I am glad the video helped and your English is just fine.
Thank you so much. While it sounds a simple and logical still many would never even thought about it ( quality based on bouncing the ball). Actually, I always presumed that all the anvils are 100% cast iron. Regarding the railroad track. Would a welded block of steel at top of it be kind of solution?
Not poking fun but Mr. John I had to slow down the speed of your video to catch some of the information at the end and you sir have the perfect "drunk" voice!
Educational, thanks John, (Fruit Cake)
I wish I could have a Fontanini anvil. Maybe Steve can donate one to me seeing as how we must be related somewhere way back. Shipping to Australia might cost a few bucks.
What the heck... is that big one forged? What tools are used to forge such a big thing?
Yes, at one time forging was the only way to make an anvil. But not in your typical shop. Big fires with lots of people and likely a big water driven power hammer, although for the age of my big anvil, steam hammers may have been available.
You'd be amazed at how much you can get by walking into a flea market or an antique shop and telling them that you're a blacksmith. I have gotten railroad spikes by the handfuls just handed to me. No tracks though.
That could be a blessing or a curse
@@BlackBearForge Well, it's free and they're given to me. I'm not going to complain.
Any reason to NOT weld a 1 or 2 in thick plate of hardened or _hardenABLE_ steel onto the top of a less expensive Cast Iron Anvil ?
It is difficult to weld to cast iron in the first place and achieving a good solid weld between the cast iron and the steel plate is unlikely.
What size is your smithing shop
From the looks of it, your cast steel anvil is a Refflinghaus No.8 @ 110kg, right? The glacis on the Austrian-type anvils is called "Brust" (chest) and is usually a ground or machined surface at a defined angle to the anvil face. I am not sure of the actual use, but these types of anvils are popular with people working sheet metal, like knight armour for renaissance re-enactments and the like. Mine is a 450lb (or so) "north German style, one horn, with upsetting block" of unknown manufacture. As much as I like the European style anvils, I do see a big advantage in having this step from the face to the horn in the US-type anvils. The European 325 one you showed on the hoffmans page looks like a "dutch" style. Much like the North German, but they are more narrow. As for used ones - you find some on ebay, but prices are pretty much outrageous. I got mine "through my friend's grandmother's dog's cousin" as we say here from a pile of junk from an old factory. It had been in water for a while, and the guy thought it a shame to just load it on the train car off to the smelter.
The double horn is from Old World anvils. I don't think it is a Refflinghaus, or they would use the name in their marketing.
I have access to the counterweight of a small forklift. It probably weighs way over 100lbs. Would that make a good substitute for an anvil?
I would think it should work as long as it isn't something easily cracked, like cast iron and that seems unlikely.
@@BlackBearForge Ok thanks. I will go and get it from the scrapyard today and let you know if it works well or not.
Have you looked at I believe to be the Big Blu anvils the aren’t cheap but I believe they are one piece cast iron
I didn't know they made any. After looking at their site they say they are cast steel and hardened. They should be a good anvil.
Black Bear Forge I must have miss read it
Yes I did been awhile since I looked at it sorry about that
Dating! I didn't know railroad crews killed the trespasser!
What would be a good weight of anvil to start off with?
A good 100 - 150 pound anvil would be all you ever need. I like the larger anvils, but they aren't required. Under 100 pounds would be too light for a lot of work.
Hello from SLC, Utah. I know this is an older video but I have a question to ask you. I know you just changed anvils to a Fontanini and I was wondering how your old world anvil is compared to your fontanini and your anvil you traded for it? Is it noticably softer, less rebound? Noticably lower quality? I wouldn't mind love a refflinghous or rigid/peddinghous, fontanini, or nimba but they prices on old world are more manageable in my situation. Thanks for the content, keep it up.
The only real issue with the Old World anvils is a bit of a rough casting, but the face is easy enough to clean up and its a good anvil
A dumb question? I have seen offcuts of big steel RSJ ( I beam) at around 300 mm long. Extremely hard steel that when drilling? Lube on a 3.5 mm drill bit and drill slow otherwise you burn out the drill bit on one hole! Is that any good?
It would work. Anything better than a big rock is a place to start. Then keep your eyes open for something better
How can I forge my own anvil ?
Black Bear Forge - where are you located in Colorado?
What can you do with the square horn? I see everyone saying they are super useful but nobody says anything you can do with them
The round horn is great for bending curves, the square horn is great for angles and offsets. Sounds like a good topic for a video.
Black Bear Forge thanks
I would love to have a real anvil but they are around $14 to $20 lb used for a good one. I am trying to save up for a new one. I have a 55 lb cheap one right now
Ouch, that is even worse than it is in the US
There isn't that many used anvils around here most were sold for scrape a few years ago.
I got given one, 5th gen I think! Lucky me
Yeah my mother gave me a "pocket anvil" for my birthday. It's made of cast iron and i'm trying to figures out a way to make something better it's like 12 pounds so i'm probably going to break it when i maker her a knife on it. (i told her the first thing i would make is a knife for her)
can you have steel plate welded to the top of a cast iron anvil
Welding to cast iron is very difficult. If it can be done I am not the one that knows how.
Braze weld maybe, arc weld, not a chance with cast iron
I know this is an old video, and there are a ton of comments, so I'm not gonna read them all to see if my suggestion is in there already.
But, I just thought about this. One of the scrap yards I go to, has their front yard where they put out a lot of good useable steel that you can pick through. They always have forklift forks out there. Anywhere from regular warehouse type, up to big forks from something like an 18ton or bigger forklift, that are between 2-3" thick.
At $.30/pound (price in OKC), you could make a very useable makeshift anvil with that for cheap. Plus, they're good heat treated steel
Here is a link for a power hammer that you may find interesting to make. Can't buy it. It is really for small stuff, but would work well for the small stuff.
Mr. N is a terrible welder, so you'll just have to overlook that part.
Go all the way to the end to watch it work. He makes a small and large one - large one is at the end
ruclips.net/video/enxIDbHDIGM/видео.html
Would you happen to know what the horizontal hardy type hole in the base of peter wright anvils is for?
Those are left from the manufacturing process. They were for a special type of tings suspended from a crane so the anvil could be safely handled during forging.
Do not ask any railroad employees to jepordise their job or chosen career by trying to mooch a section of rail. They will be fired and never get another RR job.
I bought a 300 lb anvil from a farmer for $310
I hope you feel at least a little gulity
THE ANVIL ... IS WEIRD.
See FRICTION STIR WELDING.
Sure need to clean up that shop its a mess.
Oh please....get a new hat
Very well done! I really appreciate the approach you took to anvil alternatives.
My own intro into blackmithing was delayed considerably because the advice (being told) by those in the profession and on forums, that you can't forge on anything but a real anvil.
It took me about a year before I ran into people who showed me the alternatives. At the 2 year mark I was able to purchase my 1st anvil, a brand new cast steel one. Finding a good used anvil, reasonably priced was like pulling hens teeth. The antiquers have Ruined the anvil market in my area.
Since then, anytime I meet someone interested in Blacksmithing, I make suggestions to them on anvil alternatives like what you presented. A real anvil will come later.
Thanks for the awesome video...
I am afraid anvil prices will continue to go up. Blacksmithing is becoming more popular all of the time. The good news is that means that people are making new forges, anvils, vises and other tools again
The single most important step with anything is to get started. Not get started right, or smart, just starting.
Great Video. Thanks
Was Nick Offerman studying this guy for his role as Ron Swanson?
Offerman just copied several of the old guard, the guys that have been doing this kind of stuff forever. The old guard have a wealth of information, we're lucky that Black Bear Forge and some of the others are making videos for generations to come to learn from.
TFS is Texas Ferrier Supply. They are local to me and I have one of thier 2 horn 100 lbs. anvils, and I'm definitely happy with the purchase.
Thanks for the very informative video. Your effort is genuinely appreciated.
I was able to buy some decommissioned fork lift tines for about 30 each.. this was prob 3yrs ago. As far as I know they are some form of tool steel. I cut it at the thickest part and right under the bend. The 90 bend kinda makes a horn to use. Sitting upside down its about 20 inches long and about 5 inches wide. Ground and polished to a shine. The thing weighs at least 75lbs. Makes a great anvil backed by some 4x4s on end tied together.
The link is amazing, I've looked around already for anvil cost, and these prices are really good for the quality (and new) anvil.
That peddinghaus no 12 is my dream anvil
I have one that I bought before prices began to rise. They are fully forged, and the top half is then forged welded to the lower half. The face is hardened using electricity. It came direct from Germany. If you get, even a used one, it is worth it. Reffinghaus is also good.
wow , you covered all there is to know , and then some .. holy cow ..
Started out with a piece of train track and it works, more or less. I found a lot of energy seems to be lost in flex if you're working on the edge. Then a good buddy had to close up shop, at least temporarily. I now have his 175 pound steel anvil. I've worked on it before so I knew what he was loaning me. Friends don't get much better than that.
There are good reasons our predecessors improved the anvil design into what we see today. 175 is a good size.
Good deal hope he doesn't ever want it back...
Somehow missed this one John, until tonight! Refreshing to find interesting viewing amongst all the election trash!
I might have to settle for one of those cheap ones to get my foot in the door. Why are all my hobbies so expensive?
Great info. my anvil is a Charles Zolty 1902 Trenton 100 lb I found for about 5.50 a pound. Thank you
This is a great informative video. Thank you for the basic mini lesson.
I have fabricated a large 135lb 3ft long anvil out of a bulldozer tooth railroad track welded to a ibeam. Why do I still feel jealous about other people’s anvils
Thank you top info just bought one !
Very much enjoyed your video. If there was one thing to add, people wanting to go the $200ish route might search eBay for specific steels. Just make a list of 10 or so tool steels and search those. You will often find short drops of billet in the $3 a pound range. Add to the price 10 hours of wearing out rocks on an angle grinder and having 1" hardy hole cut through with a torch and you may have something you won't ever get rid of.
Between Ebay and the local salvage yard there is lots available that is big and solid for not much money (compared to a conventional anvil). Although I don't know if I would mess with cutting in a hardy hole or just weld on a big section of square tube to use as a hardy hole.
Nice watching on you sir
Great Video and I've been looking for an anvil cheaper than a car. I've seen some old anvils in very bad shape going for $300-$500 but I mean rough. I had a old 60lb. Anvil I lent to a guy along with my portable forge and even a few tools and hammers. Never saw him again after a few months. It was my Grandfathers anvil so that hurt. I work in furniture so this anvil was perfect for making hardware, rat tail hinges and the like. So the search continues but here in Lancaster County Pa. There are lots of auctions and many farm auctions. Just about every farm had an anvil I remember as a kid. So you gave some very good info greatly appreciated. My mentor in furniture making worked in a carriage shop, black smithing end for 6 cents an hour. He was born in 1889 and died in 1981. But in watching and listening I learned enough to get by. I always wanted to build a forge. I have learned much over my 69 years in watching and asking a few question. And I have learned watching you so Thank You kindly for sharing your skills in the mastery of blacksmithing. I often say that everyone is an artist in some respect. And there are those as yourself who love and respect the skill of the art, which it truly is. With many many antiques in this area and restoring and making period furniture, I have run across so many beautiful iron works of the highest quality. As you well know, ones spirit can be seen and felt in a finely crafted work of art. More than just practical but artistically crafted. Peace! DaveyJO in Pa.
Great video !
Thanks !
Good video! Thank you,!