Repairing the Defender steering drop arm with kit RBG000010 (Real time)
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
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If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line!
Maybe I can help!?
britrest@britrest.com
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Britannica Restorations Ltd
9 Ch. Rawson
Sherbrooke
Quebec
J1M2A3
Canada
When Mike says it's going to be a bugger to fit you know it's going to be nigh on impossible for us mere mortals 😀
If doing it in vehicle, I use a caulking gun to compress the spring.
Good idea!
Thanks I made the extraction tool and used it on the vehicle. A G clamp carefully positioned presses the whole thing together and as you say the circlip thing for the rubber boot is a *****
Hello Mike, Great video as always thanks. One thing I have found that improves the longevity of this joint is drilling and tapping the end cap so as to fit a grease nipple. You can then assemble with less grease in the joint and pump some in afterwards also the nipple acts as a centre for what ever tube or socket you use to press the cap on against the spring whilst fitting the circlip.
Beat me to it John… did this to my 90 years ago and never had any wear. A little tip I used was to use a g-clamp to compress the joint spring before greasing.
It’s great seeing you do the process and the various takes so we can get away doing it once 🤣🤣
Thanks!
Dear Mike, the amazingness of power steering fluid. I took your advice and tasted my fluids. I’ve discovered my 96 Defender is leaking it. I’ve filled her up and now she steers like a dream xx still leaks but I can keep an eye on the levels xxxx thank you for sharing your wisdom xxxx
Great to hear!
That looked like a satisfying project.
It was!
Handy kit for travelling.
Sort of reminds me of King pins on my MGB.
I did this almost every 2 years. The solution is very simple. Drop arm from Discovery. Cheers King Mike🥃
Ps with tool and other means and tools. 🙃
U and getir fits from ball joint. 😉
What about the steering damper?
@@BritannicaRestorations Made a bracket with two U attached to the track rod 🙂
Or you can buy kit to do this. 😉
I reckon that you put the spring in the right way round Mike, big end towards the socket and the small end towards the retaining cap, or at least that's the way I have always done it. Some great pointers in the video, keep em coming Mike . Best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.
Thanks Rob!
Hi Mike, “Boltonbits” on eBay do just the dust cover, had to fit one to my 110, you are right the clips are a nightmare when it’s on the vehicle!
Cheers
Thanks for the info
Hi Mike 👋 just saying thanks again 👍 great video as always 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🚌🚌🚌
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks Mike. Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
That was a good video Mike, I need one of those with the lip
Yes the early ones with the parallel side seem to pop off when the rubber gets old and drier
Hi. I use a rear brake caliper from D2/p38. Drill hole in the bottom, weld on a nuts and a bolt in it, and this caliper fits perfect witout damage the gaiter. With this tool its easy to compress the spring.
Great tip!
i use a silicon gun and a socket to assemble it on the car it works well
Thanks for the video and the measurements.
Now I can improve the set I hurriedly made years ago.
Glad I could help!
Did my last one of those one day in the winter, outside, on the car, having decided to ‘economise’ by not spending £16 for that fitting tool. Big mistake! Mucho sweating and swearing, and that litttle spring in the bottom of the joint is SO hard to compress! Lots of lost skin that day. 😢
Yeap - pull the arm off and do it in a press!
Now please do that on your back in the rain lol
Oh and put the clip on the gater without putting a hole in it. 😂
Been there done that - tee shirt etc!
Yep, with a G clamp and the world's biggest steering guard in the way!
Don't get me started on steering guards!
Mike. What about 'Krown' rust proofing ? "Drink-up" he says after sand blasting the LHD drop arm clean and mounting it ! V.
Actually Krown is excellent for preserving sandblasted parts - I blasted the flywheel of the 2.25 and not a spec of rust after 3 months
@@BritannicaRestorations Mike. "It's tight at the best of times, said the actress to the bishop when she was pegging his seat in place" ! Early RRC's had grease nipple on the underside ? V.
I bought the kit to do mine, then I discovered the lip that holds the boot in place had corroded to nothing. So I ended up buying a new arm complete with ball joint.
Make sure to buy a proper Adwest parts kit. I had an ’OEM’ kit the seat of which was more than 1mm larger in diameter. Beware before using excessive force. I almost destroyed the drop arm and had to temporary reuse the original one. The parts of the Adwest kit fit perfectly.
Never had a problem with the cheaper kits
Tomorrow’s job!
The gaiter is an annual event on my Landy. I buy the kit every year. Loads of them in the drawer. Cant get that clip on!
On the vehicle they are very tricky - but when fitting the kit, it is easy to fit the cover/clip prior to fitting the shaft of the ball joint
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks, Mike.
Now do it again... on the motor 🤣
Not sure why my first comment was deleted but ... You can buy seperate polyurethane boots from Gwyn Lewis 4x4, he also does the A arm joint boot , some of the LR parts places sell them as well. To fit the spiral clip just loop a small cable tie onto one end and pull it around the spiral. I've tried to post a link showing how it's done but it's taken down everytime!
I never delete comments apart from links to porn sites!
It will be YT who censors comments
I saw the track rod end boots but not the drag link boot - are they the same?
I rarely change them as usually if the boot is split then the joint is usually knackered too!
(and the complete kit is less than a Fiver!)
@@BritannicaRestorations I know Mike, I think it was YT again sensoring, probably because I included a link to the Gwyn Lewis site. I've got one to do on a mates Td5 this week, totally rusted out.
Pretty sure the normal track rod end boots are the same, Gwyn Lewis also sells a drop arm conversion that gets rid of the built in ball joint and puts a normal ball joint on the drag link instead, same as a Disco 1??. Keep up the great vids 👍
I have not done this as we have hardly any D1 left here - what about the steering damper?
@@BritannicaRestorations He sells the whole kit, the damper bracket clamps to the drag link, removes the cast cross link bracket. I've no connection to them but have bought H/D props and rear trailing arms, nice guy, very helpful and most of their parts are made on site, he makes some nice stainless H/D steering bars. Check out his web site Mike, I'd post a link but it will only be removed, Gwyn Lewis 4x4.
Hi you can buy the Gaiter from eBay if you search for it I found I could buy them from somewhere even Bulgaria
Thanks for the info
Do you ever use paddockspares for parts?
I now use LR Direct
Gwyn lewis sells polyurethane boots as a separate item
Thanks for the info
😂 just swapped my drop arm...now steering wheel is off😂 WTF...
Been ok for 18 years😂
There are some dodgy after market drop arms out there - could be the issue