You may need a sledgehammer to knock the rotors off. Throw away those wheel nuts with the stainless covers and replace them with one piece plated nuts. If you don’t you won’t get a tire off when you have a flat. The original 19mm nuts are a snug fit on a socket and the socket won’t go all the way on. You’ll wind up spinning the socket on the nut and rounding the stainless cover. Then you have to hammer the socket on to remove the nut. If the cover breaks off you have a smaller size nut and need a smaller socket. It’s worth the $2 a nut to replace them
You can retract the calliper piston by turning it clockwise with slip joint pliers. Once they stop turning you can push the piston back the rest of the way.
Awesome- great to have the feedback! Just keep an eye on twisting in the caliper as well as bleeding the brake lines if you need to. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Excited to get working on my Escape this summer! Quick question: does it matter how you compress the caliper piston? I've been reading comments saying it's important to compress it a certain way so the brake pads wear evenly. Is this true? Also do you have any video regarding your suggestion about the bleeder valve? I'm totally new at car maintenance so not quite sure what the suggestion means. Thanks for the help!
Hey @G_Squad, glad to hear you're going to dig in! It technically only matters on the rear wheels as that is where the parking brake is located. You are supposed to "screw" the piston in so that it activates a reset mechanism for when it comes back out to set the pads. You can get away with using a C-clamp on the front pistons, but if you're going to buy or rent the tool for the rear pistons, you may as well use it for both sets of wheels. It's easier than a wobbly clamp AND it guarantees an axially aligned piston vs getting bent. As for the bleeder valve, check out the video, here's one we did on bleeding the brakes: ruclips.net/video/gso1hKpT_Dw/видео.html The bleeder valve is essentially a bolt with a barbed top and a hole drilled through it. When you loosen the "bolt", the brake fluid is allowed to seep through the hole and out of the barbed fitting (hopefully into a hose and then a container). Please let me know if you have any questions- props for taking the plunge to do your own work. The learning curve is always worth it! Thanks for checking out the channel and Subscribe if you'd like- I try to do a video per month :)
Thanks for the reply - I just subscribed. On the rear piston does resetting the mechanism mean screwing until it won't turn any more? This is the one part I'm worried about messing up! My Escape is the first car I've ever owned so I am excited to maintain it and put some elbow grease into it.
Word to the wise, do not use the silly Square piston tool that you can buy in the auto parts store. None of those six sides fits the Escape rear piston. Don't ask me how I found out the hard way. I was in a pinch and a buying, so I ended up taking the Dremel and the ground the closest fitting one until it fit. Not the best thing in the world to do. I would advise getting the proper tool.
Great video! But I have a question, how would you locate it's the front or rear rotor issue when braking vibration happens? I already replaced the rear ones bc they were so badly worn but the thing did not turn good, still have vibration then braking.
Sorry for the late reply- if it's in the front wheels you'll usually feel it in the steering wheel as the vibration will go through the steering column. If it's the rear wheels you'll usually feel a vibration in the whole car but not very much in your steering wheel. Hope this helps, but I'm assuming you already got it resolved as your comment date was 5 months ago. Hope you got it resolved!
I'll take a look- on first inspection, there is a screw at the end of the strip on the inside of the door jam. Perhaps start there? Wouldn't be surprised if you had to take some trim off...
Hey @thesteaktc, you're right- It's been a while since making this video but I think I had it in the video thinking I'd need it for the rear bolts but never did. Should have remembered to edit it out. Apologies on the confusion!
Is the handbrake part of the caliper assembly? So applying the handbrake apples pressure to the same pads? And why does that piston have to be screwed back rather than just pushing it back in? Presumably when you brake it comes out straight so why can't it be pushed back in straight?
Hey and thanks for your questions- I should clarify in another video perhaps- The parking brake is only acting on the rear wheels. You could technically get away with compressing the front calipers straight in, but you could risk misalignment and seal breaking if you're not careful. Regardless of the lack of parking brake on the front, the twisting just ensures concentricity and a smooth compression. Also, if you have the tool to do the rears, why not use it on the front? For the rears, the corkscrew twisting motion helps to reset your datum (or starting point) for your rear brake pistons. It's similar to adjusting drum brakes- check out the post by @Centex here (3rd post down): www.fordescape.org/forum/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/94250-parking-brake-design.html Hope this is helpful! Please let me know if I answered your questions or not?
,,, Nissan had to screw in Pistons back in 1986,,,, Mitsubishi had them in 1990,,,. You can't work on these new brakes like you do 15 year old American cars,,. !!! Open your bleeders,,,. If you push that old brake fluid with contaminants behind the Pistons up the brake lines to the ABS unit and master cylinder you'll ruin them,,,. Dot 4 brake fluid should be drained and flushed Every four years or sooner,,,.
Truly though... it is time, but it's not THAT much time... especially if they know what they're doing. They are probably charging a premium for all motorcraft spec'd parts and all as well. Thanks for the comment and for checking out the channel!
Is it safe to assume that the process will be the same on a 2017 Escape? I'm looking for videos on how to do this for two reasons. 1) for future reference, and 2) so I can paint my brake calipers.
,,, 2013 new production year through 2018 should be the same,,,. Dump and flush and get rid of your brake fluid and replace it with new before 5 years,,,. Do the exact same thing to your antifreeze,,, and a new thermostat,,,. !!!
I found it weird that you provided so much valuable information in this video and the description but did not find it important to say whether these were the rear brakes or the front. Other videos I have seen use a 7 mm Allen Head socket but you claim it needs a T45 Torx for the slider pins. Confusing. I tend to believe it’s a 7 mm Allen head because that is part of a brake caliper kit.
You know... you're right! Sorry for the delay in response- note for FRONT brakes has been added at the top of the description below the video. At the time of this video being recorded, I had just done another brake job with a Torx driver on the same type of pins so I had assumed it was Torx- so your 7mm worked? Thanks for the comments and tips- every bit helps make these videos better. I appreciate it.
As in it won't unscrew? Or it is stuck between the piston and the caliper? If the piston is still holding it in place, you can relieve pressure by opening the bleeder valve.
If you do open the bleeder valve, only do so long enough to get your tool out, then tighten back up. Just like in our brake bleed video, if you have a hose and empty water bottle, you can contain some of the mess
Hi Patrick! Yep- you're right- please see the notes underneath the video / in the description. The proper torques are provided there. Please let me know if this answers your question or not! Thanks for watching :)
,,, you can run the auto parts store rotors,,, by putting the wheel on and tightening the lug nuts,,, their junk the warp tightening the lug nuts,,,,. Chinese and India junk,,. !!! You'll be replacing everything again within 2 years,,,. ???
It is recommended but not required. You can introduce air bubbles which can compromise your compression of the brake slave cylinder. This is when they feel "squishy". Also, when they're this soft, your ABS is less responsive as well. I can only say it will help, but strongly recommend it!
How To Escape: DIY, Tips, and Reviews Now is this something you should only do with the Escape or just all cars? Because I've never heard of doing it. Ford Escapes seem like a pain in the ass lol
This is something that applies to all cars. Most if not all modern brake lines are hydraulic. Many recent vehicles (~2005 and up) have calipers that are sensitive to their cylinders being compressed, so you need to relieve the pressure in the lines by draining the fluid. If you don't, you risk rupturing seals. When you drain the fluid, or compress the cylinders, you can introduce the air bubbles that make the squish factor when you press on the pedal and have poor stopping effects. It can be a bit messy, but it's worth it to have robust brakes. Also, you don't have to do all this stuff yourself if you don't feel like it. An auto shop would probably be able to cruise through the procedure as it's normal maintenance. Whatever you'd like to do!
SlickSpencer8live not required to bleed the brakes if you have a right amount of fluid in the master cylinder. as you compress the piston back thatt extra fluid pushes up and accumulates some fluid back to the master cylinder. provided your system is okay this should not introduce any air into the system at all. so no, don't do it if your brakes feel fine currently.
SlickSpencer8live ,,, yes you want to open the bleeders and push that nasty contaminated fluid out,,, do not push it up the brake lines,,,. Dot 4 and Dot 5 brake fluid absorbs moisture like crazy,,, It should be completely drained flushed and new fluid at the time of new brakes,,,,. And anti seize everything,,. !!! Or next time it'll be a $2,000 brake job,,. ???
Sure! They actually help the caliper open again after you press the brakes. Its pre-loaded resistance. If you dont have them they dont open as easily and your pedal goes soft
The tool in the video actually didn't need an adaptor for this job. When sizing it, it seems to be a #5. The holes lined up pretty well with the caliper piston face. (As stated in the video, opening the bleeder valve and bleeding the system is best to be done after compressing a piston)
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews actually it’s best to open the bleeder valve before you compress the piston, so that the dirty brake fluid is ejected out of the bleeder valve and not pushed up into your system. If you don’t open the bleeder screw at least open up the brake master cylinder before compressing the piston.
Just did my father's 2015 escape...when I did the rear I hit tu rotor once with a dead blown mallet and the rotor completely came apart...the disk completely broke off of the center hub leaving the rotor in 2 pieces....this was only at 50,000 and pads were at 50%... I hear we're original rotors...don't go cheap like Ford did...repace the rotors no matter how good they look...faulty part
,,, do not push that dirty contaminated brake fluid back up the brake lines,,, it will damage your ABS unit and your master cylinder,,,. Open the bleeders and push it out,,,. . DOT,, brake fluid type 4 and 5,,, absorbs moisture like crazy,,, should be completely flushed out and complete new fluid,,, it will Rust your brake lines out from the inside out,,, it will ruin your ABS unit,,, and your master cylinder,,, rust up your caliper Pistons,,,
,,,, do not push that old brake fluid and contaminants backup the brake lines,,,. You'll ruin your ABS unit and master cylinder,,,,. Do not use C-clamp,,,. Open the bleeders push the fronts in with your thumbs,,,. Turn the rear end with the tool or needle nose pliers,,,,. Dot 4 brake fluid should be drained and flushed every four years or sooner,,,. !!!
,,, this is another guy that don't know how to do brakes,, 1986 Nissan 300ZX had these type brakes,,,, 1990 Mitsubishi had them too,,,,. Brake mechanics with over 20 years experience don't know how to do brake jobs right,,,,. !!! I haven't seen one video even by professional mechanics that was done right,,,. On 2013 and up. And even most 2000 up,,. They still do them like the 1980s and 1990s,,,. And they won't hold up to years,,,
Rick, thanks for your input. It's clear you have a lot of experience, so thanks for contributing your advice. In some of your other comments, you list a few suggestions... do's and don'ts..- perhaps to your point on there not being a solid video out there to what you believe to be the right process, would you mind making a video of your own? Or at least bullet out a step by step for what you know to be the right way? We're all a community here, and that was the goal of this channel. So, I'm happy to learn from you, as others most likely are as well. Also, I don't claim to be an expert mechanic, I'm not even certified, but I do my best in showing step by step videos for ways that I've learned and have worked so far. I give that fair and square in my intro video to the channel. Also, It's been over a year since I did this video, and my calipers haven't frozen, my pads are wearing evenly, and my brakes are fully functional.
How To Escape: DIY, Tips, and Reviews sorry for any disrespect,,,, I am in the Rust Belt,,, where over the top and special procedures are needed,,. !!! Rock salt sand and beet juice,,. The slide pins on the early Nissan's had five Gru's to carry Greece and keep them from freezing up,,, Mitsubishi did not,,,, I even take a grinder and cut a flat spot and file them so they'll carry and handle more anti-seize,,,. Anti seize on the bleeders so you can get them out five years later,,,. Anti seize on the main big bolts,,,. Dot for Dot 5 brake fluid absorb the moisture like crazy,,,,. Rust your brake lines out from the inside out rust the Pistons up in the calipers and under the O-ring seals,,,. In our area you must take all this apart and anti seize it even before the brake pads are worn out,,,. Or you will not get them apart and have to buy new calipers,,, 5 years Max on new cars,, ???
,,, he skipped all the most important parts,,, one of which,, cleaning an anti seizing,,, the self-centering slide pins,,,, they will freeze up you'll burn up the back brake pad on the rotor and eat the rotor up overheat the caliper and blow the seals out of it,,,. And you'll need a new caliper and rotor and brakes within 2 years or sooner,,. ??? You can't tighten up the main bolts with a 3/8 drive ratchet,,,, and the other bolts are not Torx there Allen head,,. !!!
Literally took me an hour and a half because of your video, thanks a ton
Awesome! Thank you very much for the feedback and let us know if you have any questions on a specific video
You may need a sledgehammer to knock the rotors off. Throw away those wheel nuts with the stainless covers and replace them with one piece plated nuts. If you don’t you won’t get a tire off when you have a flat. The original 19mm nuts are a snug fit on a socket and the socket won’t go all the way on. You’ll wind up spinning the socket on the nut and rounding the stainless cover. Then you have to hammer the socket on to remove the nut. If the cover breaks off you have a smaller size nut and need a smaller socket. It’s worth the $2 a nut to replace them
You can retract the calliper piston by turning it clockwise with slip joint pliers. Once they stop turning you can push the piston back the rest of the way.
ALWAYS USE PROPER TOOLS.
@@Cman57 for those that can't manage other tools for the job.
Great video! Thanks for sharing. Need new pads and rotors in the Spring and this is just the video I needed!
Awesome- great to have the feedback! Just keep an eye on twisting in the caliper as well as bleeding the brake lines if you need to. Good luck and thanks for watching!
I have ford escape 2015 and i live in Germany i couldn't found the parts for my car , i find only ford kuga , is it work for escape ? Help plz
Best Vid I've seen on this! Thx
Thanks @Jason, happy that it was helpful for you! Thanks for checking out the channel!
Excited to get working on my Escape this summer! Quick question: does it matter how you compress the caliper piston? I've been reading comments saying it's important to compress it a certain way so the brake pads wear evenly. Is this true? Also do you have any video regarding your suggestion about the bleeder valve? I'm totally new at car maintenance so not quite sure what the suggestion means. Thanks for the help!
Hey @G_Squad, glad to hear you're going to dig in! It technically only matters on the rear wheels as that is where the parking brake is located. You are supposed to "screw" the piston in so that it activates a reset mechanism for when it comes back out to set the pads. You can get away with using a C-clamp on the front pistons, but if you're going to buy or rent the tool for the rear pistons, you may as well use it for both sets of wheels. It's easier than a wobbly clamp AND it guarantees an axially aligned piston vs getting bent.
As for the bleeder valve, check out the video, here's one we did on bleeding the brakes: ruclips.net/video/gso1hKpT_Dw/видео.html
The bleeder valve is essentially a bolt with a barbed top and a hole drilled through it. When you loosen the "bolt", the brake fluid is allowed to seep through the hole and out of the barbed fitting (hopefully into a hose and then a container).
Please let me know if you have any questions- props for taking the plunge to do your own work. The learning curve is always worth it!
Thanks for checking out the channel and Subscribe if you'd like- I try to do a video per month :)
Thanks for the reply - I just subscribed. On the rear piston does resetting the mechanism mean screwing until it won't turn any more? This is the one part I'm worried about messing up!
My Escape is the first car I've ever owned so I am excited to maintain it and put some elbow grease into it.
Word to the wise, do not use the silly Square piston tool that you can buy in the auto parts store. None of those six sides fits the Escape rear piston. Don't ask me how I found out the hard way. I was in a pinch and a buying, so I ended up taking the Dremel and the ground the closest fitting one until it fit. Not the best thing in the world to do. I would advise getting the proper tool.
one of my rear brake pads has a lot of wiggle room how can i fix it… it’s causing a tapping sound as i drive
Hi Edward- Is your spring wire in place? Are the slider pins fully secured? Are your brakes firm or soft?
Great video! But I have a question, how would you locate it's the front or rear rotor issue when braking vibration happens? I already replaced the rear ones bc they were so badly worn but the thing did not turn good, still have vibration then braking.
Sorry for the late reply- if it's in the front wheels you'll usually feel it in the steering wheel as the vibration will go through the steering column. If it's the rear wheels you'll usually feel a vibration in the whole car but not very much in your steering wheel. Hope this helps, but I'm assuming you already got it resolved as your comment date was 5 months ago. Hope you got it resolved!
Thanks, Just one thing : Torque for the caliper slide pins is 21 lb-ft not 27
Really? Alright- I'll look into that- thanks for the heads up and for checking out the channel!
If you smack the front of the rotor 2-3 times with the real hammer, it would loosen up quickly and easily.
how do you take the chrome strip off the front driver and passenger door/winder trim....and go lol
I'll take a look- on first inspection, there is a screw at the end of the strip on the inside of the door jam. Perhaps start there? Wouldn't be surprised if you had to take some trim off...
you were half right. remove the one screw and slide it out......:)
What was the 7/8" open wrench used for? I can't see when you used it.
Hey @thesteaktc, you're right- It's been a while since making this video but I think I had it in the video thinking I'd need it for the rear bolts but never did. Should have remembered to edit it out. Apologies on the confusion!
,,, bolts are metric and Allen head,,,,
Is the handbrake part of the caliper assembly? So applying the handbrake apples pressure to the same pads?
And why does that piston have to be screwed back rather than just pushing it back in? Presumably when you brake it comes out straight so why can't it be pushed back in straight?
Hey and thanks for your questions- I should clarify in another video perhaps-
The parking brake is only acting on the rear wheels. You could technically get away with compressing the front calipers straight in, but you could risk misalignment and seal breaking if you're not careful. Regardless of the lack of parking brake on the front, the twisting just ensures concentricity and a smooth compression. Also, if you have the tool to do the rears, why not use it on the front?
For the rears, the corkscrew twisting motion helps to reset your datum (or starting point) for your rear brake pistons. It's similar to adjusting drum brakes- check out the post by @Centex here (3rd post down):
www.fordescape.org/forum/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/94250-parking-brake-design.html
Hope this is helpful! Please let me know if I answered your questions or not?
How To Escape: DIY, Tips, and Reviews awesome, thanks!
,,, Nissan had to screw in Pistons back in 1986,,,, Mitsubishi had them in 1990,,,. You can't work on these new brakes like you do 15 year old American cars,,. !!! Open your bleeders,,,. If you push that old brake fluid with contaminants behind the Pistons up the brake lines to the ABS unit and master cylinder you'll ruin them,,,. Dot 4 brake fluid should be drained and flushed Every four years or sooner,,,.
Thanks, Rick!
After watching your video (BTY Thank you) Makes me wonder how the Ford Dealership can justify charging $1400 to do a break job.
Truly though... it is time, but it's not THAT much time... especially if they know what they're doing. They are probably charging a premium for all motorcraft spec'd parts and all as well. Thanks for the comment and for checking out the channel!
Is it safe to assume that the process will be the same on a 2017 Escape? I'm looking for videos on how to do this for two reasons. 1) for future reference, and 2) so I can paint my brake calipers.
Can't vouch for the '17, Matthew- sorry, man. Only have the '13 at my disposal right now, but I wouldn't think they'd be too different!
,,, 2013 new production year through 2018 should be the same,,,. Dump and flush and get rid of your brake fluid and replace it with new before 5 years,,,. Do the exact same thing to your antifreeze,,, and a new thermostat,,,. !!!
It is the same virtually on all 2012-2017 escapes
I found it weird that you provided so much valuable information in this video and the description but did not find it important to say whether these were the rear brakes or the front.
Other videos I have seen use a 7 mm Allen Head socket but you claim it needs a T45 Torx for the slider pins. Confusing. I tend to believe it’s a 7 mm Allen head because that is part of a brake caliper kit.
You know... you're right! Sorry for the delay in response- note for FRONT brakes has been added at the top of the description below the video.
At the time of this video being recorded, I had just done another brake job with a Torx driver on the same type of pins so I had assumed it was Torx- so your 7mm worked?
Thanks for the comments and tips- every bit helps make these videos better. I appreciate it.
So the caliper compression tool is jammed stuck and i cant get it out. Any advice ?
As in it won't unscrew? Or it is stuck between the piston and the caliper? If the piston is still holding it in place, you can relieve pressure by opening the bleeder valve.
If you do open the bleeder valve, only do so long enough to get your tool out, then tighten back up. Just like in our brake bleed video, if you have a hose and empty water bottle, you can contain some of the mess
would it be recommended to torque down all the bolts to proper spec?
Hi Patrick! Yep- you're right- please see the notes underneath the video / in the description. The proper torques are provided there. Please let me know if this answers your question or not! Thanks for watching :)
,,, you can run the auto parts store rotors,,, by putting the wheel on and tightening the lug nuts,,, their junk the warp tightening the lug nuts,,,,. Chinese and India junk,,. !!! You'll be replacing everything again within 2 years,,,. ???
What year is this Escape? It doesn't look like the front end of my 2009 at all.
fabio40 sorry for the confusion- this channel is for '13-'16 escapes! THIS escape is a '13.
fabio40 not the same year but same process.
Would it be bad to NOT bleed the brakes? I really don't want to get myself into that xD
It is recommended but not required. You can introduce air bubbles which can compromise your compression of the brake slave cylinder. This is when they feel "squishy". Also, when they're this soft, your ABS is less responsive as well. I can only say it will help, but strongly recommend it!
How To Escape: DIY, Tips, and Reviews
Now is this something you should only do with the Escape or just all cars? Because I've never heard of doing it. Ford Escapes seem like a pain in the ass lol
This is something that applies to all cars. Most if not all modern brake lines are hydraulic. Many recent vehicles (~2005 and up) have calipers that are sensitive to their cylinders being compressed, so you need to relieve the pressure in the lines by draining the fluid. If you don't, you risk rupturing seals. When you drain the fluid, or compress the cylinders, you can introduce the air bubbles that make the squish factor when you press on the pedal and have poor stopping effects.
It can be a bit messy, but it's worth it to have robust brakes. Also, you don't have to do all this stuff yourself if you don't feel like it. An auto shop would probably be able to cruise through the procedure as it's normal maintenance. Whatever you'd like to do!
SlickSpencer8live not required to bleed the brakes if you have a right amount of fluid in the master cylinder. as you compress the piston back thatt extra fluid pushes up and accumulates some fluid back to the master cylinder. provided your system is okay this should not introduce any air into the system at all. so no, don't do it if your brakes feel fine currently.
SlickSpencer8live ,,, yes you want to open the bleeders and push that nasty contaminated fluid out,,, do not push it up the brake lines,,,. Dot 4 and Dot 5 brake fluid absorbs moisture like crazy,,, It should be completely drained flushed and new fluid at the time of new brakes,,,,. And anti seize everything,,. !!! Or next time it'll be a $2,000 brake job,,. ???
👍
Always wonder,what function do the wire springs do?
Sure! They actually help the caliper open again after you press the brakes. Its pre-loaded resistance. If you dont have them they dont open as easily and your pedal goes soft
They hold the pad securely against the calliper bracket.
What adapter number are you using on the caliper tool?
The tool in the video actually didn't need an adaptor for this job. When sizing it, it seems to be a #5. The holes lined up pretty well with the caliper piston face. (As stated in the video, opening the bleeder valve and bleeding the system is best to be done after compressing a piston)
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews actually it’s best to open the bleeder valve before you compress the piston, so that the dirty brake fluid is ejected out of the bleeder valve and not pushed up into your system. If you don’t open the bleeder screw at least open up the brake master cylinder before compressing the piston.
Good video, thanks
Where is the bleeder valve?
Hi, is it same procedure on 2017 escape? I know that I should put e-brake on maintenance mode.
Just did my father's 2015 escape...when I did the rear I hit tu rotor once with a dead blown mallet and the rotor completely came apart...the disk completely broke off of the center hub leaving the rotor in 2 pieces....this was only at 50,000 and pads were at 50%... I hear we're original rotors...don't go cheap like Ford did...repace the rotors no matter how good they look...faulty part
What Ford Escape year is that
It's a 2013- let me know if you have any other questions- thanks for checking out the video!
How To Escape: DIY, Tips, and Reviews thanks no ?
,,, do not push that dirty contaminated brake fluid back up the brake lines,,, it will damage your ABS unit and your master cylinder,,,. Open the bleeders and push it out,,,. . DOT,, brake fluid type 4 and 5,,, absorbs moisture like crazy,,, should be completely flushed out and complete new fluid,,, it will Rust your brake lines out from the inside out,,, it will ruin your ABS unit,,, and your master cylinder,,, rust up your caliper Pistons,,,
,,,, do not push that old brake fluid and contaminants backup the brake lines,,,. You'll ruin your ABS unit and master cylinder,,,,. Do not use C-clamp,,,. Open the bleeders push the fronts in with your thumbs,,,. Turn the rear end with the tool or needle nose pliers,,,,. Dot 4 brake fluid should be drained and flushed every four years or sooner,,,. !!!
,,, this is another guy that don't know how to do brakes,, 1986 Nissan 300ZX had these type brakes,,,, 1990 Mitsubishi had them too,,,,. Brake mechanics with over 20 years experience don't know how to do brake jobs right,,,,. !!! I haven't seen one video even by professional mechanics that was done right,,,. On 2013 and up. And even most 2000 up,,. They still do them like the 1980s and 1990s,,,. And they won't hold up to years,,,
Rick, thanks for your input. It's clear you have a lot of experience, so thanks for contributing your advice. In some of your other comments, you list a few suggestions... do's and don'ts..- perhaps to your point on there not being a solid video out there to what you believe to be the right process, would you mind making a video of your own? Or at least bullet out a step by step for what you know to be the right way? We're all a community here, and that was the goal of this channel. So, I'm happy to learn from you, as others most likely are as well.
Also, I don't claim to be an expert mechanic, I'm not even certified, but I do my best in showing step by step videos for ways that I've learned and have worked so far. I give that fair and square in my intro video to the channel. Also, It's been over a year since I did this video, and my calipers haven't frozen, my pads are wearing evenly, and my brakes are fully functional.
How To Escape: DIY, Tips, and Reviews sorry for any disrespect,,,, I am in the Rust Belt,,, where over the top and special procedures are needed,,. !!! Rock salt sand and beet juice,,. The slide pins on the early Nissan's had five Gru's to carry Greece and keep them from freezing up,,, Mitsubishi did not,,,, I even take a grinder and cut a flat spot and file them so they'll carry and handle more anti-seize,,,. Anti seize on the bleeders so you can get them out five years later,,,. Anti seize on the main big bolts,,,. Dot for Dot 5 brake fluid absorb the moisture like crazy,,,,. Rust your brake lines out from the inside out rust the Pistons up in the calipers and under the O-ring seals,,,. In our area you must take all this apart and anti seize it even before the brake pads are worn out,,,. Or you will not get them apart and have to buy new calipers,,, 5 years Max on new cars,, ???
,,, he skipped all the most important parts,,, one of which,, cleaning an anti seizing,,, the self-centering slide pins,,,, they will freeze up you'll burn up the back brake pad on the rotor and eat the rotor up overheat the caliper and blow the seals out of it,,,. And you'll need a new caliper and rotor and brakes within 2 years or sooner,,. ??? You can't tighten up the main bolts with a 3/8 drive ratchet,,,, and the other bolts are not Torx there Allen head,,. !!!
seem like a lot of hate man, make a video then
7mm ALLEN WRENCH, NOT T45 TORX