Thank you for watching! 🔥OBD2 Scanner: amzn.to/3PHRplS Check out AllDatadiy repair manuals: www.gopjn.com/t/SENKTklLS01DSE1NS0lOQ0dKRk9LTw Use code AD10VA for 15% off one-year subscriptions for any US Order Check out my merch: easyautofix.creator-spring.com/ Have car-related questions? Check out JustAnswer! They have verified auto mechanics that are available as live help 24/7: justanswer.9pctbx.net/qnj74y Buy a new ignition coil here: advanceautoparts.rt8x.net/P0DoOQ Here are some of my favorite items that you might like: Tools: amzn.to/3xNDb8g Car Vacuum: amzn.to/3EjhPSJ Cleaning Tools: amzn.to/3El7dCG Water Repellency Wiper Blade: amzn.to/3utvK50 Cleaning Gel For Cars: amzn.to/36NIiMr Portable Air Pump for Car Tires: amzn.to/3uBuPzA Headlight Restoration Kit: amzn.to/3qDpOVH Amp Jump Starter: amzn.to/3pMd0vx
I feel like it should have been obvious but you are the only person to mention the gas smell because of bad ignition coil. I was racking my brain trying to figure out if it was a clogged fuel injector or the coil but that last comment seals the deal hopefully replacing the coil fixes the problem thanks!!
Really loved how direct and easy he put this information I had a hunch on it being my coils what led me here but the way he put the info just about validated what i'm experiencing thanks bro!
OMG thank you for being so "to the point" last thing I wanna hear is a bunch of no-need BS. this was beautiful and helped me know my coils were bad. God bless
You can tell he really enjoys this stuff. I know nothing about cars so I'm glad you are here..lol My car started with the Trac Off light then the Check Engine light came on. I had two readings of cylinder misfire. Yep its hard to accelerate now. This is definitely my problem.
You're the best bro, for many reasons, here's a prime example I've watched other videos today pertaining to bad ignition coils and how to troubleshoot them properly and not once has anybody said to simply watch for the rough idle and simply change out each coil pack until the rough idle stops lol, everybody was using multimeters and 20 minute videos blah blah blah you're the best man thank you
You are a very humble man , god bless you now and always. You are very respectful and very descriptive. Thank you so much. Big fan and a new subscriber to your channel
Had this happened to me while on the freeway, going 100 km/h. Sudden loss of power and excessive shaking. Decided to keep driving to the garage (~10km) where they concluded it was indeed the ignition coil (as i suspected). They had to order the part, but once they had it, it was fixed in 20 minutes. Including parts and work, it cost me 165 euro's. It sucks, but compared to other car trouble, this was nothing :).
@@stevenmack9948 and the time for diagnosis is for free? The part itself I'd assume they take 50-60€ for. Installation is really done within 10-15 min, but idk how easy diagnosis is to find the right, if it's just giving an error code for the one to change.
@@l3138 I work as mobile breakdown in UK & could diagnose that in 5 mins & show the member how to fix themselves, you usually only need a 10mm socket, not really a garage job
Thank you for this. When you said the smell of gas i realized this is what is probably causing my engine to misfire. I’ve been smelling gas for the past week and didn’t think much of it. I got my resonators removed today and the problem started happening. Hopefully it’s just coincidence and the ignition coil is what I need to replace.
One problem that is not often mentioned in the many videos I've watched on Ford / Mercury ignition problems. If you replace plugs and coils and other parts, and find your engine light still comes on after a while, or shortly after replacing parts, the real problem is that the main computer needs to be reprogrammed. I spent about 800 dollars replacing plugs and coils twice, mechanics replacing parts, etc. all which did not solve the problem. You may also notice the car jerks when you accelerate, as though you have a transmission problem. The real problem is not the transmission. The main computer has to be reprogrammed. Another symptom is the air conditioner compressor will shut down; you will not have air conditioning. That is to protect the AC compressor. Once you have the main computer reprogrammed, the AC compressor will work. I went to 6 different Ford dealers in Miami / Ft. Lauderdale, and none of the six mentioned a thing about reprogramming the main computer. I was told by several dealers, not knowing about the main computer at that time, that "there's nothing you can do." One Ford dealer had the car a full day, and said I might have to replace the main computer, and that they cant do that , because Ford no longer carries them. I finally found a Ford dealership (Pines Ford) who said they could reprogram the main computer. Regular scanners can't reprogram your computer. It requires a bi-directional scanner, a Ford subscription for the scanner, and someone who knows the procedure required to reprogram. For that reason, IMO, it's best to take it to a Ford dealer who can reprogram the computer, and they can also check to make sure your plugs and coils are all functioning correctly. They can also check for vacuum leaks, vacuum hoses that may need replacing, bad coil connectors, etc. Not cheap, but better than paying a mechanic to replace parts that won't fix the problem.
Disconnect your battery and let the negative and positive terminal lock together for about 20 minutes then connect back to battery. That will reprogram your car.
@@BlackWhite-ru8gm Not saying that will work. What vehicle have you tried that on ? Here's what we know for sure about scanners. The typical low priced scanners, or any NON bidirectional scanner can't be used to reprogram your computer. At best these scanners can tell you if a particular cylinder is misfiring. The most these scanners can do is shut off the engine light, TEMPORARILY. The light will come on again eventually, as soon as the main computer senses that the car is misfiring. None of these scanners can sense a bad wire, or if they do, it may be a bad connection or connector on a particular cylinder. The scanner doesn't say "Faulty connector, Faulty wire," etc. The few truly qualified Ford dealers that will reprogram a computer, Like Pines Ford in Hollywood, FL, have the factory authorized scanners, codes, generally parts and wire connectors, to fully assess ignition problems. Expensive yes, but far less than having a general mechanic replace lots of stuff, and still not be able to reprogram you main computer. If you go to any Ford dealer that tells you your main computer can't be reprogrammed, or that the main computer needs to be replaced, then you may want to find another dealer. Unless someone has damaged the main computer in some way, they generally should be reprogram-able.
Awesome video. This is the EXACT problem with my vehicle. The smell of gas and a rough idle. Purchased 6 new spark plugs, a coil, and gasket. Putting them on bright and early tomorrow.
was on my way home from work and barely made it, luckily my mechanic makes midnight repair trips for me. second time in a month this issue occurred. don't smell gas, but a foul gross stench. acceleration is difficult- can't maintain over 40 pushing the max, very rough idle. thanks for the video! went and got all new spark plugs and coil packs today!
Dang! You have a Mechanic that gives midnight repairs?! You are special and you know it! Lol. That's awesome! You definitely need to send him a gift card showing appreciation.
One problem that is not often mentioned in the many videos I've watched on Ford / Mercury ignition problems. If you replace plugs and coils and other parts, and find your engine light still comes on after a while, or shortly after replacing parts, the real problem is that the main computer needs to be reprogrammed. I spent about 800 dollars replacing plugs and coils twice, mechanics replacing parts, etc. all which did not solve the problem. You may also notice the car jerks when you accelerate, as though you have a transmission problem. The real problem is not the transmission. The main computer has to be reprogrammed. Another symptom is the air conditioner compressor will shut down; you will not have air conditioning. That is to protect the AC compressor. Once you have the main computer reprogrammed, the AC compressor will work. I went to 6 different Ford dealers in Miami / Ft. Lauderdale, and none of the six mentioned a thing about reprogramming the main computer. I was told by several dealers, not knowing about the main computer at that time, that "there's nothing you can do." One Ford dealer had the car a full day, and said I might have to replace the main computer, and that they cant do that , because Ford no longer carries them. I finally found a Ford dealership (Pines Ford) who said they could reprogram the main computer. Regular scanners can't reprogram your computer. It requires a bi-directional scanner, a Ford subscription for the scanner, and someone who knows the procedure required to reprogram. For that reason, IMO, it's best to take it to a Ford dealer who can reprogram the computer, and they can also check to make sure your plugs and coils are all functioning correctly. They can also check for vacuum leaks, vacuum hoses that may need replacing, bad coil connectors, etc. Not cheap, but better than paying a mechanic to replace parts that won't fix the problem.
This was what was wrong with my car, but this video talks about the symptoms as if they’ll happen at least a few days before your car breaks down. My car only had low fuel economy before the drive in which it broke down, and only began occasional vibrations about 10 minutes before it broke down(I thought it was a wheel problem). Stopped at a red light and could barely accelerate and car began shaking badly so I pulled over. It’s weird because usually I’m hypersensitive to anything wrong with my car and it’s noises/movements.
straight forward explanation. I recently had this issue but instead of fixing the ignition coil, i changed my spark plugs (which is almost due by the way). not long after the spark plugs replacement, my car was still jerking on low RPM (1,000 - 1,500). after inspection at a proper workshop, they discovered that 2 out of 4 ignition coils were not working properly. Now waiting for the parts to be delivered and hopefuly this will solve the jerking issues.
@@easyautofix yeah, will revert once the replacement is done. On another note, is it worth it to purchase your own OBD device to scan error codes? Just wondering.
@@ernestjion8006 Personally yes for two reasons. 1. Could be an easy fix and if you got time to work on your car, it could save you tons of money. 2. If you want to have an idea of what’s wrong with your car before you go into a mechanic it’s good for that reason as well. It’s an investment in knowledge + application= power.
@@easyautofix much thanks for the reply. WIll definitely look into the pros and cons of it. Anyways keep up the good work mate. Channel like yours is a huge help for idiot like me. Subscribed!
Hello! Thank you for the video. We changed both the spark plugs and the coils yet it doesn’t seem to have fixed the problems. I am experiencing all said symptoms as well as bad gas mileage. Where can I look at next?
Will small break on the top plastic part ring around the epoxy is fatal and need a new one eventhough it still work? Mine have a break/crack on top when I tried to remove it by a tool. The motor runs fine so should I have to waste money to buy a new coil?
What causes spark to jump out of the coil hole. Only #2 does it and the other three don’t. Cylinder 2 is misfiring . When you pull out the plug wire, spark jumps out of the coil hole. Help. Installed new coil and still have the same problem. Help
I did not know this. I have a 2014 Town and country van that when I step on the gas it shakes, when I start going up hill it shakes. So I take my foot of the gas and slowly apply gas again. Works, but stutters when you apply force. Do you think this might be caused by the coils?
@@perezknowles9506 I found it in the sensors for the bumper. It was a modual, disonect both side of the sensors and it should go back to mormal. Let me know what happens, maybe you don't have that kind of bumper.
Hey, quick question so corrosion on the battery terminal can cause my ignition coil to not work properly I do have a lot of corrosion on there. Do you think if I just clean it off it would fix my misfire issue or do I have to change the coil because it’s already damaged
I got a used 2011 ford f150 ecoboost and i had replaced spark plugs and a 02 sensor & it would stutter when i tried to pass someone or floored it. And no check engine light would stay on but would blink then go away. I really didn’t want to spend on a new fuel pump so i further investigated, what i did noticed was residue on the tail pipe like carbon build up at the tip. Meaning running to lean or to rich. Boom changed the Coil packs and it worked like a dream. Got me some msd coil packs fpr $365. My opinion is spend $25 more for the msd than the duralast brands and the motorcraft are even more expensive might i add they the same as denso. I also have a oil catch can to protect the intake manifold and turbos from blow by oil. 😎😎😎😎😎
Need Help Please. 2000 Acura RL. Replaced ignition coils with TRQ brand. still getting the P1306,1305,1304,1303,1302,1301,P0300 codes, had TRQ send me replacements to make sure they were not bad and still getting the codes. Thoughts?
Another symptom is the burning of gas, Since the coil is not firing properly excess gas is being used to balance out the test of the engines gas and oil flow. My BMW usually gets 0ver 500 miles per full gas tank. With the bad ignition coil I was getting 396. Rough idle, loss of power, and Engine shaking.
Check engine light is on 3.3 f150 2019, oreily's said number six injector is bad ,rough idle at a red light sluggish taking off. Mainly in the evenings leaving work.
Does this affect oil pressure too? I changed my oil pressure sensor and when I was reassembling everything I broke and ignition coil connector terminal. I started the jeep just to move it out of my cousins garage while I wait for a connector pigtail to arrive, it obviously hesitated to start and once it some dash lights came one. Check engine, the red lightning bolt light and the oil lamp light.
Question, I see a little rubber around the sparkplug, i is preventing the sparkplug tool from wrapping around it to get it out. Is there a way to get it out and remove this circular rubber that seems out of place? The rest of the spark plugs and coils don't have this rubber and there is easy access.
The rubber is probably from the spark plug socket that slipped off when the spark plug was replaced previously since it is only on one spark plug. Use a small pick to remove/lift out or remove your spark plug socket rubber insert and see if your socket fits over the spark plug.
Is it possible no code will come up? My 12 Sentra runs rough only on drive when idling other than that it runs smooth. Changed motor mounts, belt pulley, and a complete tune up. Coils are all original 130K miles no code yet.
Well my 15 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 L is stalling a lil. Tried the switching the cylinder 1 plug to cylinder 2 and vice versa. Still have code P0301 the cylinder 1 misfiring. So it’s not the plugs. Going do the coils next. Do the same switch them around. If no change the same thing code P0301 then it’s the injector. Right ? Any input be appreciated
@EasyAutoFix i have a '91 Chevy Caprice Station Wagon = no gas smell, but same symptoms = why when my mechanic replaced the ignition module, it improved slightly imo. QUESTION: would bad ignition coil lend to low (15psi) pressure in engine? Another nearby mechanic shop says he believes it's the floating valves & wants to rebuild/replace engine🙃 The issue came out of the clear blue: car ran fine, came out of a store & was barely able to drive to mechanic - determined to get it running = great car & sentimental😳🙏
No acceleration ? Check your throttle body Ticking noise ? HOPEFULLY NOT engine knock... Which could be the end of the motor at some point , once the knock starts it doesn’t go away
Do bad ignition coils cause the car to drop into neutral from drive when cold idling? No issues once the car is warm. I've already changed the air filter and cleaned the EGR valve
Please check your transmission fluid and make sure 1) you have enough fluid on the dipstick 2) that the fluid doesn’t look contaminated. The ignition coils,air filter, or EGR doesn’t have much to do with your problem but it is still a good thing you have those out of the way now ! Good luck please let me know if this helps!
Wow wow wow... Just wow! Dude... I gotta commend you on your excellent diagnosis and the way you explain it Barney style so that anyone can understand it and there's no music blasting or dogs barking in the background so that I can't even hear wth you're saying! You don't have 18 frigg'n minutes of you taking the shit apart. You're just to the point and ya even threw a little comedy in there with the 2nd symptom lol!! Outstanding video! Subscribed 🤘
So when I start the car, it idle low and sometimes dies, fine when you’re driving and have gas. At idle or when going into reverse with no gas, it sometimes dies. What you think? Spark? Also mpg is way down, like 9
i got cylinder 4 misfire. i just changed the sparks plugs as it's going onto 20,000 miles which is probably the base range for generic parts on a 2017 Hyundai elantra. the engine light went off for a few days. now it's on again. i don't think it;s the ignition coil as it's not even 20,000 miles yet. maybe if i check the wires connecting? i need an oil change very badly. i but i don't see how that can cause misfiring.
So my 97 civic is randomly dropping power while driving but then (within a few seconds) it pops back on and continues driving. The couple times it didn't come back on I pulled over and restarted the car. Usually starts within 1-2 attempts. Does this sound like ignition coil? I also idle super low at stop lights and it dies on me sometimes. I even adjusted the timing of the distributor all the way up and it still barely idles right above 0 RPM.
Great channel! So I have a question for you. My 2018 Chevy Silverado from time to time check engine light will come on and my traction control light as well. My truck runs rough and has a hard time shifting. Then eventually the light starts to blink. I check the code 0301 and 0600 ish codes come up but by the time I get it to the dealer the light goes out truck returns to normal and the codes disappear. It literally shows no codes! It’s done this 5 time now since I’ve owned the truck. And ideas what this could be? Thank you 🙏
In regards to the P0301 meaning cylinder 1 is misfiring. One of the most common causes for that could be a bad ignition coil,spark plug or fuel injector for cylinder 1. As far as the P0600 code meaning the Engine control module having communication errors could be due to low battery voltage, a bad ECM, or a lose connection/wires on the ecm or maybe in need of an update. P0600 code can also be the reason why you have a p0301 code as the ecm could not be working correctly. Hope this helps. Best of luck!
Hi Bro whats up? I am from Dhaka, Bangladesh. Hope you are doing well. My problem is after started the car engine, race just increased and it is fluctuated. Once i pulled my ignitions coil from any of, the engine race came down and smoother. But once i put the ignition coil in the engine race goes high. Pls advise.
Hi, i have a vw jetta 2005 and suddenly the engine start shaking and a check engine appeared. It has misfire on all 5 cilinders. Is it possible that all 5 ingition coils are bad at the same time???
My dodge is doing this it will shut off not lose power but shuts off engine wise when I am slowing down and jerks and lower rpm when I’m driving at a steady speed did you figure out what’s causing it no check engine light either
Thank you for watching!
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Use code AD10VA for 15% off one-year subscriptions for any US Order
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I feel like it should have been obvious but you are the only person to mention the gas smell because of bad ignition coil. I was racking my brain trying to figure out if it was a clogged fuel injector or the coil but that last comment seals the deal hopefully replacing the coil fixes the problem thanks!!
Really loved how direct and easy he put this information I had a hunch on it being my coils what led me here but the way he put the info just about validated what i'm experiencing thanks bro!
Sounds like Chris fix it voice slowed down. 🤔
He ain’t Chris fix but it’ll do for now
The voice is definitely Chris fix
You mean an average white guy’s voice 😅🤣
@@illegal_amigo haha white people joke funny.
replace white with black a-oh shit im cancelled now
Walter jr
OMG thank you for being so "to the point" last thing I wanna hear is a bunch of no-need BS. this was beautiful and helped me know my coils were bad. God bless
Accurate, right down to the smell of gas. Thanks for confirming my suspicions!
i started to smell gas coming from my exhaust
You can tell he really enjoys this stuff. I know nothing about cars so I'm glad you are here..lol My car started with the Trac Off light then the Check Engine light came on. I had two readings of cylinder misfire. Yep its hard to accelerate now. This is definitely my problem.
watch in 1.5x trust me
lol alrrady had it before seeing your comment. youre so right
lol it makes him talk normal not like a slow stoner
1.25 is perfect
1.25
Thx
Brief and to the point - perfect! Subscribed for that one thousand horsepower!
Haha your awesome!
You're the best bro, for many reasons, here's a prime example I've watched other videos today pertaining to bad ignition coils and how to troubleshoot them properly and not once has anybody said to simply watch for the rough idle and simply change out each coil pack until the rough idle stops lol, everybody was using multimeters and 20 minute videos blah blah blah you're the best man thank you
You are a very humble man , god bless you now and always. You are very respectful and very descriptive. Thank you so much. Big fan and a new subscriber to your channel
I appreciate this,Thank you so much!
I subscribed also followed you 🤭
@@bahissafg ditto👍👍
I honestly think that was the best comment ever. Good stuff
Capitalize the G in God
Had this happened to me while on the freeway, going 100 km/h. Sudden loss of power and excessive shaking. Decided to keep driving to the garage (~10km) where they concluded it was indeed the ignition coil (as i suspected). They had to order the part, but once they had it, it was fixed in 20 minutes. Including parts and work, it cost me 165 euro's. It sucks, but compared to other car trouble, this was nothing :).
I'm afraid they ripped you off as it's a very simple fix, should have been about 70 euros
@@stevenmack9948 and the time for diagnosis is for free? The part itself I'd assume they take 50-60€ for. Installation is really done within 10-15 min, but idk how easy diagnosis is to find the right, if it's just giving an error code for the one to change.
@@l3138 I work as mobile breakdown in UK & could diagnose that in 5 mins & show the member how to fix themselves, you usually only need a 10mm socket, not really a garage job
So it's not convertor
Not always parts can cause problems check ground wires may be broken don’t have to spend money on parts unless it needs to be replaced so
I liked and subscribed and my 02 camry turned into a rolls royce phantom !!!!! Thanx easy auto fix🤟🤟
I subscribed, but my 2003 Acura TL only saw a 950hp increase. 😂Thanks for the simple yet informative video.
Thank you for this. When you said the smell of gas i realized this is what is probably causing my engine to misfire. I’ve been smelling gas for the past week and didn’t think much of it. I got my resonators removed today and the problem started happening. Hopefully it’s just coincidence and the ignition coil is what I need to replace.
Comment what it is
@@MuscleCarMike piece comes in tomorrow, will keep you posted
Was it your Coils?
@@talamantezfamily3123 yes it was. Car runs great now
Thanks Bro appreciate it 🙏
One problem that is not often mentioned in the many videos I've watched on Ford / Mercury ignition problems. If you replace plugs and coils and other parts, and find your engine light still comes on after a while, or shortly after replacing parts, the real problem is that the main computer needs to be reprogrammed. I spent about 800 dollars replacing plugs and coils twice, mechanics replacing parts, etc. all which did not solve the problem. You may also notice the car jerks when you accelerate, as though you have a transmission problem. The real problem is not the transmission. The main computer has to be reprogrammed. Another symptom is the air conditioner compressor will shut down; you will not have air conditioning. That is to protect the AC compressor. Once you have the main computer reprogrammed, the AC compressor will work. I went to 6 different Ford dealers in Miami / Ft. Lauderdale, and none of the six mentioned a thing about reprogramming the main computer. I was told by several dealers, not knowing about the main computer at that time, that "there's nothing you can do."
One Ford dealer had the car a full day, and said I might have to replace the main computer, and that they cant do that , because Ford no longer carries them.
I finally found a Ford dealership (Pines Ford) who said they could reprogram the main computer. Regular scanners can't reprogram your computer. It requires a bi-directional scanner, a Ford subscription for the scanner, and someone who knows the procedure required to reprogram. For that reason, IMO, it's best to take it to a Ford dealer who can reprogram the computer, and they can also check to make sure your plugs and coils are all functioning correctly. They can also check for vacuum leaks, vacuum hoses that may need replacing, bad coil connectors, etc. Not cheap, but better than paying a mechanic to replace parts that won't fix the problem.
Disconnect your battery and let the negative and positive terminal lock together for about 20 minutes then connect back to battery. That will reprogram your car.
@@BlackWhite-ru8gm Not saying that will work. What vehicle have you tried that on ? Here's what we know for sure about scanners. The typical low priced scanners, or any NON bidirectional scanner can't be used to reprogram your computer. At best these scanners can tell you if a particular cylinder is misfiring. The most these scanners can do is shut off the engine light, TEMPORARILY. The light will come on again eventually, as soon as the main computer senses that the car is misfiring.
None of these scanners can sense a bad wire, or if they do, it may be a bad connection or connector on a particular cylinder. The scanner doesn't say "Faulty connector, Faulty wire," etc.
The few truly qualified Ford dealers that will reprogram a computer, Like Pines Ford in Hollywood, FL,
have the factory authorized scanners, codes, generally parts and wire connectors, to fully assess ignition problems. Expensive yes, but far less than having a general mechanic replace lots of stuff, and still not be able to reprogram you main computer. If you go to any Ford dealer that tells you your main computer can't be reprogrammed, or that the main computer needs to be replaced, then you may want to find another dealer. Unless someone has damaged the main computer in some way, they generally should be reprogram-able.
@@BlackWhite-ru8gm what do you mean by lock together??
@@willardferguson7818 connect together i think (like shorting the circuit without the battery idk)
@@Vinni-2K thank you
Awesome video. This is the EXACT problem with my vehicle. The smell of gas and a rough idle. Purchased 6 new spark plugs, a coil, and gasket. Putting them on bright and early tomorrow.
Did it work?
Helpful and right to the point with no bs filler talk. (the like and subscribe bit was earned and justified)
was on my way home from work and barely made it, luckily my mechanic makes midnight repair trips for me. second time in a month this issue occurred. don't smell gas, but a foul gross stench. acceleration is difficult- can't maintain over 40 pushing the max, very rough idle. thanks for the video! went and got all new spark plugs and coil packs today!
Dang! You have a Mechanic that gives midnight repairs?! You are special and you know it! Lol. That's awesome! You definitely need to send him a gift card showing appreciation.
And how’s it running now
@@gabegarcia7779 running way better. still running rough but it needs more work done.
One problem that is not often mentioned in the many videos I've watched on Ford / Mercury ignition problems. If you replace plugs and coils and other parts, and find your engine light still comes on after a while, or shortly after replacing parts, the real problem is that the main computer needs to be reprogrammed. I spent about 800 dollars replacing plugs and coils twice, mechanics replacing parts, etc. all which did not solve the problem. You may also notice the car jerks when you accelerate, as though you have a transmission problem. The real problem is not the transmission. The main computer has to be reprogrammed. Another symptom is the air conditioner compressor will shut down; you will not have air conditioning. That is to protect the AC compressor. Once you have the main computer reprogrammed, the AC compressor will work. I went to 6 different Ford dealers in Miami / Ft. Lauderdale, and none of the six mentioned a thing about reprogramming the main computer. I was told by several dealers, not knowing about the main computer at that time, that "there's nothing you can do."
One Ford dealer had the car a full day, and said I might have to replace the main computer, and that they cant do that , because Ford no longer carries them.
I finally found a Ford dealership (Pines Ford) who said they could reprogram the main computer. Regular scanners can't reprogram your computer. It requires a bi-directional scanner, a Ford subscription for the scanner, and someone who knows the procedure required to reprogram. For that reason, IMO, it's best to take it to a Ford dealer who can reprogram the computer, and they can also check to make sure your plugs and coils are all functioning correctly. They can also check for vacuum leaks, vacuum hoses that may need replacing, bad coil connectors, etc. Not cheap, but better than paying a mechanic to replace parts that won't fix the problem.
Midnight repairs trips huh? You might repay him in some time of way..
This was what was wrong with my car, but this video talks about the symptoms as if they’ll happen at least a few days before your car breaks down. My car only had low fuel economy before the drive in which it broke down, and only began occasional vibrations about 10 minutes before it broke down(I thought it was a wheel problem). Stopped at a red light and could barely accelerate and car began shaking badly so I pulled over. It’s weird because usually I’m hypersensitive to anything wrong with my car and it’s noises/movements.
My cars got the exact same problem. Can I ask what car you have?
that's just how your car behaves his diagnosis is spot on sir
Can it be catalytic converter to
Same problem also
Bad ignition plus pressure loss maybe. How since you’ve changed any gaskets
straight forward explanation. I recently had this issue but instead of fixing the ignition coil, i changed my spark plugs (which is almost due by the way). not long after the spark plugs replacement, my car was still jerking on low RPM (1,000 - 1,500). after inspection at a proper workshop, they discovered that 2 out of 4 ignition coils were not working properly. Now waiting for the parts to be delivered and hopefuly this will solve the jerking issues.
Thank you. 2 out of 4 ignition coils is a definite cause to the engine not working properly! It should solve the issue. Best of luck!
@@easyautofix yeah, will revert once the replacement is done. On another note, is it worth it to purchase your own OBD device to scan error codes? Just wondering.
@@ernestjion8006 Personally yes for two reasons. 1. Could be an easy fix and if you got time to work on your car, it could save you tons of money.
2. If you want to have an idea of what’s wrong with your car before you go into a mechanic it’s good for that reason as well.
It’s an investment in knowledge + application= power.
@@easyautofix much thanks for the reply. WIll definitely look into the pros and cons of it. Anyways keep up the good work mate. Channel like yours is a huge help for idiot like me. Subscribed!
@@ernestjion8006 Not an idiot, just haven’t been exposed to it that’s all. Thank you, I appreciate you 🙏🏼
Thank you. I know nothing about auto repair but now at least I know what is wrong with my daughter's Ford F-150. Very well explained.
Thank you! Be mindful that other engine components can cause similar symptoms so make sure to do research and test carefully. Best of luck!
I fixed the biggest problem but couldn't handle the extra horsepower it unlocked and I totaled my car.. totally worth it!
I have a misfire but without any code or warning lights on dash? Tsi 1.4
Hello! Thank you for the video. We changed both the spark plugs and the coils yet it doesn’t seem to have fixed the problems. I am experiencing all said symptoms as well as bad gas mileage. Where can I look at next?
0:56
lol savior of lives
Love how detailed this video is!!! Thank you ❤️
Very nice, thank you!
Will small break on the top plastic part ring around the epoxy is fatal and need a new one eventhough it still work? Mine have a break/crack on top when I tried to remove it by a tool. The motor runs fine so should I have to waste money to buy a new coil?
Hi. How about some WHITE SMOKE coming out the rear exhaust? Is this a symptom as well? Thank you.
I got my ngks spark plugs in. In the morning I'll be doin this looks easy and I'm glad I did my research💯🤝🏾
Would you recommend dielectric grease on the coil connectors? Thanks, good and informative.
I appreciate the help my boy, you really helping me narrow down my engine issue 💚💯
and i appreciate you!
Thank you for simple advice
If I replace the plugs and ignition coils in my car, should I also replace the wiring harness that clips onto the ignition coils?
You dont have to necessarily unless there fried
Thank you for being brief & systematic in your description.
Soo you need a good battery for your coils to run good right? Or what does a battery do in a car like what’s it’s purpose?
Need another one, these are outstanding.
Goodman! Very nice! Coming soon.
I never realized the performance issues with my cars were caused by not being subscribe to this channel. 😮
He ain’t lying I liked and subscribed and can leave a dodge demon in the dust !
This was really well explained and written!!!!!!!!!!!!
is standard blue streak ok to use on pontiac grand prix. they have o.e.m. ones.
This was Rt on time! Gratitude 🙏🏾
Great video bro. Precise/Straight to the point 💯
I appreciate you
What causes spark to jump out of the coil hole. Only #2 does it and the other three don’t. Cylinder 2 is misfiring . When you pull out the plug wire, spark jumps out of the coil hole. Help. Installed new coil and still have the same problem. Help
I did not know this. I have a 2014 Town and country van that when I step on the gas it shakes, when I start going up hill it shakes. So I take my foot of the gas and slowly apply gas again. Works, but stutters when you apply force. Do you think this might be caused by the coils?
Did you find out the problem ? I have this exact problem with my car ?
@@perezknowles9506 I found it in the sensors for the bumper. It was a modual, disonect both side of the sensors and it should go back to mormal. Let me know what happens, maybe you don't have that kind of bumper.
Hey, quick question so corrosion on the battery terminal can cause my ignition coil to not work properly I do have a lot of corrosion on there. Do you think if I just clean it off it would fix my misfire issue or do I have to change the coil because it’s already damaged
I got a used 2011 ford f150 ecoboost and i had replaced spark plugs and a 02 sensor & it would stutter when i tried to pass someone or floored it. And no check engine light would stay on but would blink then go away. I really didn’t want to spend on a new fuel pump so i further investigated, what i did noticed was residue on the tail pipe like carbon build up at the tip. Meaning running to lean or to rich. Boom changed the Coil packs and it worked like a dream. Got me some msd coil packs fpr $365. My opinion is spend $25 more for the msd than the duralast brands and the motorcraft are even more expensive might i add they the same as denso. I also have a oil catch can to protect the intake manifold and turbos from blow by oil. 😎😎😎😎😎
Thanks perfect that’s the straight up to the point.
Very, very, very helpful. Thank you!
What if I have those symptoms but the smell of gas? Would it still be the ignition coil?
Change your smoke detector battery
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂FRRRR
Shieeet
Need Help Please. 2000 Acura RL. Replaced ignition coils with TRQ brand. still getting the P1306,1305,1304,1303,1302,1301,P0300 codes, had TRQ send me replacements to make sure they were not bad and still getting the codes. Thoughts?
Another symptom is the burning of gas, Since the coil is not firing properly excess gas is being used to balance out the test of the engines gas and oil flow. My BMW usually gets 0ver 500 miles per full gas tank. With the bad ignition coil I was getting 396. Rough idle, loss of power, and Engine shaking.
Check engine light is on 3.3 f150 2019, oreily's said number six injector is bad ,rough idle at a red light sluggish taking off. Mainly in the evenings leaving work.
Does this affect oil pressure too? I changed my oil pressure sensor and when I was reassembling everything I broke and ignition coil connector terminal. I started the jeep just to move it out of my cousins garage while I wait for a connector pigtail to arrive, it obviously hesitated to start and once it some dash lights came one. Check engine, the red lightning bolt light and the oil lamp light.
Can you describe how to troubleshoot a coil on a farm tractor ? Thanks
The channel is great,.directly to the point and indicate the lifespan that is so good. Thanks for share the videos. Of course, I subscribed.
I liked and subscribed n just saying. I an still here on the side of the road w/o my car starting. But thank you for the detailed slow video
Thank you so much when I heard you say you can smell gas I was like oh that’s what’s going on this is a great help thanks
My Jeep started to Crackle a shit ton when I step on it and idk what it could be ima change the spark plugs first
Awesome video! I'm currently in the process of replacing my ignition coils and spark plugs.
Sorry to be random but does your car actually move?
Mine doesn’t move at all so I’d presume I need more than just one ignition coil 🥲
Question, I see a little rubber around the sparkplug, i is preventing the sparkplug tool from wrapping around it to get it out. Is there a way to get it out and remove this circular rubber that seems out of place? The rest of the spark plugs and coils don't have this rubber and there is easy access.
The rubber is probably from the spark plug socket that slipped off when the spark plug was replaced previously since it is only on one spark plug. Use a small pick to remove/lift out or remove your spark plug socket rubber insert and see if your socket fits over the spark plug.
Wow I did suscribe and I just got almost 1,000 hp thanks easyautofix
When changing my spark plugs do you think it’ll be a good idea to change the ignition coil?
I have rough idling on my Lexus gs300 no warning light on the dash…? Any ideas?
Spark plugs are new clean throttle airflow sensor etc.
No bro, you're the greatest. Thanks!
Great video I like how you slid that (like) comment into the fix salutation 👍
Very nice, thank you!
Wow tnx straight to the point no bs for 1 hrs
My truck does the rough idling. Thank you. No check engine light though.
Is it possible no code will come up? My 12 Sentra runs rough only on drive when idling other than that it runs smooth. Changed motor mounts, belt pulley, and a complete tune up. Coils are all original 130K miles no code yet.
my 15’ dodge dart is slow to pick up speed fast enough. Do you think I have a ignition coil issue?
that's mean If ignition coil is bad, will the light on in the engine warning light definitely?thank you
my car (when its warmed up) makes a jerk when pressing gas pedal on low gears/low rpm. Does that have anythjng to do with ignition coil? pls help
How do you know which ignition coil to get?
It is universal?
Well my 15 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 L is stalling a lil. Tried the switching the cylinder 1 plug to cylinder 2 and vice versa. Still have code P0301 the cylinder 1 misfiring. So it’s not the plugs. Going do the coils next. Do the same switch them around. If no change the same thing code P0301 then it’s the injector. Right ? Any input be appreciated
Called a shop said it was the fuel injector but I had the code for the spark plugs and it fixed the problem. SMH almost lost a lot of money!
Awesome thanks! Funny too, I only subscribed because of the pitch
My car jerks going at 35 miles or 45 miles rpm is going up and down any idea why ??
Results?
Sounds good my bro ...thanks
@EasyAutoFix i have a '91 Chevy Caprice Station Wagon = no gas smell, but same symptoms = why when my mechanic replaced the ignition module, it improved slightly imo. QUESTION: would bad ignition coil lend to low (15psi) pressure in engine? Another nearby mechanic shop says he believes it's the floating valves & wants to rebuild/replace engine🙃 The issue came out of the clear blue: car ran fine, came out of a store & was barely able to drive to mechanic - determined to get it running = great car & sentimental😳🙏
My 07 Lincoln Navigator has lost acceleration but has no check engine light, also making a ticking noise, could this be the prob?
No acceleration ? Check your throttle body
Ticking noise ? HOPEFULLY NOT engine knock... Which could be the end of the motor at some point , once the knock starts it doesn’t go away
Do bad ignition coils cause the car to drop into neutral from drive when cold idling? No issues once the car is warm. I've already changed the air filter and cleaned the EGR valve
Please check your transmission fluid and make sure 1) you have enough fluid on the dipstick 2) that the fluid doesn’t look contaminated. The ignition coils,air filter, or EGR doesn’t have much to do with your problem but it is still a good thing you have those out of the way now ! Good luck please let me know if this helps!
Wow wow wow... Just wow! Dude... I gotta commend you on your excellent diagnosis and the way you explain it Barney style so that anyone can understand it and there's no music blasting or dogs barking in the background so that I can't even hear wth you're saying! You don't have 18 frigg'n minutes of you taking the shit apart. You're just to the point and ya even threw a little comedy in there with the 2nd symptom lol!! Outstanding video! Subscribed 🤘
Sounds good I just ordered a new set. I'll check it out as soon as they come in. Thanks 💯🏁🏁🏁
Will it affect the battery as well ?
Nice video .Subscribed .Ps I had an lpg car years ago and it cooked coil packs .Misfiring and caused the engine temp to go up but always limped home.😅
So when I start the car, it idle low and sometimes dies, fine when you’re driving and have gas. At idle or when going into reverse with no gas, it sometimes dies. What you think? Spark? Also mpg is way down, like 9
i got cylinder 4 misfire. i just changed the sparks plugs as it's going onto 20,000 miles which is probably the base range for generic parts on a 2017 Hyundai elantra. the engine light went off for a few days. now it's on again. i don't think it;s the ignition coil as it's not even 20,000 miles yet. maybe if i check the wires connecting? i need an oil change very badly. i but i don't see how that can cause misfiring.
So my 97 civic is randomly dropping power while driving but then (within a few seconds) it pops back on and continues driving. The couple times it didn't come back on I pulled over and restarted the car. Usually starts within 1-2 attempts. Does this sound like ignition coil? I also idle super low at stop lights and it dies on me sometimes. I even adjusted the timing of the distributor all the way up and it still barely idles right above 0 RPM.
Great channel! So I have a question for you. My 2018 Chevy Silverado from time to time check engine light will come on and my traction control light as well. My truck runs rough and has a hard time shifting. Then eventually the light starts to blink. I check the code 0301 and 0600 ish codes come up but by the time I get it to the dealer the light goes out truck returns to normal and the codes disappear. It literally shows no codes!
It’s done this 5 time now since I’ve owned the truck. And ideas what this could be? Thank you 🙏
In regards to the P0301 meaning cylinder 1 is misfiring. One of the most common causes for that could be a bad ignition coil,spark plug or fuel injector for cylinder 1. As far as the P0600 code meaning the Engine control module having communication errors could be due to low battery voltage, a bad ECM, or a lose connection/wires on the ecm or maybe in need of an update. P0600 code can also be the reason why you have a p0301 code as the ecm could not be working correctly. Hope this helps. Best of luck!
@@easyautofix I understand thank you
Thank you. Simple and to the point!
Hi Bro whats up? I am from Dhaka, Bangladesh. Hope you are doing well. My problem is after started the car engine, race just increased and it is fluctuated. Once i pulled my ignitions coil from any of, the engine race came down and smoother. But once i put the ignition coil in the engine race goes high. Pls advise.
Hi, i have a vw jetta 2005 and suddenly the engine start shaking and a check engine appeared. It has misfire on all 5 cilinders. Is it possible that all 5 ingition coils are bad at the same time???
Can you have this with no check engine light?
Bro I got stranded yesterday, and this came in handy
Thanks for the video appreciate your help.
Merry christmas
Another good one! Thanks.
Great video one question will this keep my car from starting? I can’t get it to start
Fuel pump can or filter could be sensor to ob2 could tell ya
My dodge is doing this it will shut off not lose power but shuts off engine wise when I am slowing down and jerks and lower rpm when I’m driving at a steady speed did you figure out what’s causing it no check engine light either