I understand the allure of using “everything” on an Utube video engine rebuild...but changing a valve or two and replacing old valve springs would not kill the sprit of the work/video.
I will admit, the 1/2 impact is not the way to go for thread chasing haha. Not sure why I was using it for this, probably something related to laziness. I would much more careful to make sure the threads were clean beforehand and that I didn't snap a chaser on aluminum parts or someone else's stuff.
I like the build, I really do. I understand the idea of doing it on a micro budget. What I don't get is being hard headed and not spending the $30ish for a new valve. An entire SET of 8 Gen IV intakes are only $70 from Summit. I like budget builds but I HATE even the idea of having to yank a head because I was so cheap I wouldn't spend money where it's smart. I once decided to reuse a set of valve springs of unknown age in a motor I wasn't exactly being cheap with. A .030 over 302 Ford sporting KB Hyper pistons, SBC 1.94/1.60 valve. Comp cams billet roller rockers... you get the idea. I ended up bending an intake valve for one weak spring.... 350 miles from home. Bus fare + time and fuel to return with a trailer + new valve and guide + gaskets + having to listen to my best friend for a week say "I told you so." + a new set of springs I should have purchased anyway.
@@ChuckThree that's our point he has more than enough cash to do a better rebuild of this engine. A ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure.
@@rgbigdog Ounces add up. Plus the whole reason he’s doing the build is to test wether or not you need to abide by the “proper” process for rebuilding a mild engine. Worst case scenario he’s out $200, because RUclips has already paid for his labor time.
@@ChuckThree i think the worst case scenario is that valve breaks off or the whole valve drops in to the cylinder, punches a hole through the piston, bending a rod along the way. then damaging everything that has a bearing. possibly pushing that rod out the side of the block. THAT is why everyone is suggesting caution. not that he might have to later replace a valve. the step in the valve is going to prevent it from seating correctly holding it open.
I always love the statement "this isn't something I have had a problem with" usually on this channel that is followed later in the video or another one with problems
I've been in his shoes before, not with car projects but just with other things in life. It's not about if someone would fault you for it, it's about "I said I wasn't gonna buy new ones and damnit I'm not gonna buy new ones." I've been there before😂 can't say for sure, but I don't think there is going to be any changing his mind.
I guess sometimes it’s the challenge of it all. Plus, anyone would probably just go buy new stuff. I would. But would that keep someone viewing? “Tune in next week to see if it really works!”
@@wdblackman I was in this situation I ended up with little valve head margin after machining on a lathe, instead of risking burning thin faced valves in a new engine I replace them with new ones cheap insurance and saves trouble just in case
Just like I did in the 60's, I had little money to work with, but learned a lot, lapping the valves makes a big difference, GREAT Job, GREAT VIDEO thanks
I'll be doing the valves on my '71 Maverick, 200 inline six. This is by far the most detailed video I've seen on the cleaning process! Lots of work to do, but I know it will greatly improve the performance of the engine--thank you!
So I started watching this video and am loving every bit of it. I turn on CC to make sure I get all the details, but end up never paying any attention to them. You all need to turn on CC for this video and read them. THEY ARE HILARIOUS.
When I reconditioned a junkyard Vtec head for my Accord I lapped the valves pretty much just like this. I used old faithful (ancient Milwaukee corded drill), a small length of old windshield washer hose, and a bit of broken screwdriver shaft to get things done. Worked perfectly I used the lapping compound a bit differently using techniques that I learned from my teacher years ago.
Coming from someone who loves keeping things as "original" as I can, please replace that valve while you still can. It will take 10 minutes now and give you peace of mind, vs 6 hours later / constant headaches trying to figure out if your problem is from that valve.
to me , the valve seats are ruined, lapping is good to make a light cleaning or a final fitment on a freshly machined valve and seat to confirm the contact and usually not more pronounced than 1 minute for each valve.
If he ground that step down,it would flow much better but might be a bit sketchy..realistically a new valve wouldve been far more smart while its apart
I'll be interested to hear the firing order... My guess is something like 1-miss-miss-miss-miss-2-miss-miss Also, I suggest totally avoiding any form of compression test or leakdown test
I’ve done this whole job before. It definitely needed to be done. Wish I would have had this video. But I put my heads in a blast cabinet. Then lapped the valves. They were practically brand new when I was done.
At the end of the day it’s all about working with what you have. Yes I would have replaced the valve as that had gone way beyond what I’d work with on someone else’s car. But as a project - a task that you want to carry out ‘in house’ without any machine shop input - you do what you can with what you have. I have done this many times to keep things simple and ‘in house’ - and if you are sensible on what you think is achievable you can do great things and be proud of it - and it will work!
I like your hose idea on the valves. I was doing research and found that most pros dont recommend doing this with a drill from that end because you can cause wear on the valve guides and to only do this by hand. I do this with a drill on the valve side by taking a matching socket adapter to fit the suction cup and thats how i do it with a drill from the front. Never thought of the tube tho. Good stuff
A new valve, which could be purchased individually is under 40 bucks. But you got some real savings putting that turd back in. 22 bucks from Summit Racing as I priced it, but that old valve is just dandy.
You actually released this fast enough that I hadn't caught up with the other one in my watch-later list. Love to see the pace picking up. Here's some supportive words to help keep up your motivation :)
if i had insisted on reusing those valves i would probably have ground the step away from lapping them. and maybe even better rough ground the valves before hand and then lapped them to fit.
Well done 👍👍I'm in the process of rebuilding a 3.4 tacoma engine myself. Yes, it takes a lot of time and effort, but it is also very rewarding doing it myself. Cheers 👍
I’ve been using a 15L ultrasonic cleaner this week to clean a much smaller engine head. I’d definitely recommend it as it dissolves carbon and surface rust on all the surfaces including channels you can’t normally get Into
Love the channel, but, I wouldn't be able to sleep at night knowing that "that" valve was reused. This comes from a person very used to "falling down the rabbit hole" using used parts.
Absolutely nothing wrong with that valve lol it's a engine rebuild not a performance engine people wtf lol the lack of knowledge from you so-called mechanics is amazing to me
@@edim108 valve was a little pitted up at the top when he was done and I guarantee you that valve would seal just as good as the rest of them lol it's a rebuild not a performance build
@@jonathanlawson4667 "a little pitted" is an understatement and a half. And he said himself that this 454 is getting a blower... If the plan was to just rebuild it on a budget and leave it NA, probably nothing bad would ever happen after reusing that valve. But when you add forced induction to the mix, you run the risk of that valve not being able to hold up to extra stress.
Excellent video on cleaning the heads. I like your idea of the rubber hose and drill. Some videos clamp the drill right onto the valve stem but I never liked that. Thanks for the video.
When I was putting headers on my truck only 1 of the 12 manifold bolts came out without breaking. Said fuck it and decided to pull the heads and I got a good set of used heads
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 Well sometimes you get lucky, on my old jeep I was gonna do exhaust manifold gaskets. Snapped the first bolt then said "You know what? It's not that bad of an exhaust leak" and walked away cause I don't have any extractors lol
Great Job Mr. Finger. you are doing all that can be done to have a successful result. I believe this engine will run quite well for quite a while. Since it will be Supercharged the low compression ratio of the original engine should suit the extra air nicely. I am quite looking forward to see that all of your efforts pay dividends.
I am all for cheap this is a great video I have a damaged engine in a vehicle in a bad area some of these tips are very helpful! The cylinder 3 intake valve..... looks better but the $13 might have been a better option she is getting really thin.
you really clean the cylinder head in the garden? engine oil, engine cleaner and detergent. this is very good for drinking water and for nature. you are an idol!
So much progress... so many videos to watch for the 78... makes me worried there's not much being done with the 91! Excited for the next video on the 91 lol
Many of the commments are "condeming/skeptical" of your work. I understand that there are optimal ways of rebuilding engines. But when you buy an engine for 200dollars and want a cheap solution you want to fix as much as possible with the parts you have. This is often where I found my self either way. I may have an engine and some machines to "fix stuf" but no money for parts... I like how u try to fix it instead of buying all new parts. Hope it will turn out good. Love the videos as always. Keep it up amigo!!!
funny,i just did this last fall on a set of sbc vortec heads(made my own lapping compound from grinding wheel dust and grease,lol)the valves and seats came out really nice and the heads work great.silliest thing i did was after swapping in a new hot cam and buttoning everything up,I realized i didn't torque down the timing chain sprocket.DARN IT...off came the water pump,off came the timing chain cover after loosening off the oil pan AGAIN....All this was done with the ENGINE IN THE CAR!!!
Guys are running good power with them still...for average street use a good head still...check out Mark at vortech pro running 10's with peanut ports... remember it's about velocity as long as you don't plan on twisting high rpm
I'd replace that valve from Nr 3, the wider seat for the valve will cause excessive heat transfer to the valve and if it overheats the hardening of the valve will get compromized and the valve will melt, atleast thats what i was tought lol. Also some valves have a hardened coating that is very thin and excessive grinding can remove that layer, might not be a problem since its more common on modern engines but you never know.
I think the head gasket should flow as freely as necessary to take up all the irregularities. It is not going to get out of alignment while it’s sitting on the dowels. The smoother the surface the easier it can seal.
I have a bad feeling about that valve. I'm no expert on engine internals but I sure hope that valve doesn't come back to haunt you when you supercharge it
2 things - the main purpose of lapping isn't sealing, it is making good contact so that the valve heat gets conducted into the head. Valves adjusted too tight will run pretty well without eve touching the seat but they will burn from lack of cooling. Also, if you don't have a good straightedge you can check with the other head and block. Spin them around and pair them up backwards. In theory two mating surfaces could warp the same way and still fit if both faces are matching curves, but the only shape where face A and B, A and C, and B&C all fit together is a flat plane. That's how you make a flat plane without any flat reference. Take three pieces of stable cast iron and lap them together A to B, B to C, C to A and flip them end to end every now and then.
I suspect you’ll have issues with compression once fully assembled. Having a valve sitting “deeper” into the seat, will not fit within tolerance between the camshaft and keep the valve open.
That intake valve, really needed to be replaced. It should be ok but it isn’t going to seal as good as it could, especially since you plan on supercharging it.
If it turns out to be a problem he'll put more money into doing it right. If he's proven anything over the past years of doing this it's that he is not against pulling out an engine and fixing it
Those seats and valve heads cleaned up pretty well. My only trepidation really is the difference in installed height of the valve tips especially in regards to that one you really had to grind down. I would have expected it to have been overcome by shimming the rest of the springs to match the height of the tallest valve but then you get into differing seat pressures, etc. You could also overcome it with different length pushrods but that would seem to be far more difficult, logistically. Do you expect that the resulting change in effective lift won't have significant effect on the engine over all? As this stuff was recorded over a year ago I would be interested to know, if you're that far ahead, what the impact was. if any. Because science! :) Very much enjoying the series.
yeah, but what's the definition of failure? it could granade completely, it could have a repairable failure, it could run on 7 cylinders, or it could just be low on power.
@@jakewade7388 unless it breaks or some failure is cause by the misfit valve, i have no doubt it will run a long time. it's hard to kill these things but like you said, performance might be limited to 7 or less cylinders.
I think you might get in trouble with this extensive valve lapping. The meeting/sealing surface of the valve and the seat seems to be way too big. That usually causes issues by having the closing force of the valve spring distributed on a too large sealing surface. That might not seal properly.
I can't quite picture why the wider distribution of valve spring force would be of concern, could you explain further? For what it's worth, that intake seat is still narrower than the exhaust seats. Because the valve is larger the overall area is still larger though, of course.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects the valve seat angle and poppet valve angle are supposed to be cut at different angles so that when they are lapped in you see a thin shinny ring. This ring is called a 'knife edged seat'. The pressure of the spring will be concentrated on a small surface area and seal better. Good luck. I like your videos.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects As Zane Grey said, the force of the spring is putting pressure on the sealing surface. The larger the surface gets, the lower the pressure will be, so the less sealing you have. It‘s just the simle physics equation of force, surface and pressure. The exhaust valves are much smaller in diameter, so the surface is smaller as well and therefore, that sealing edge can be a bit wider, that the heat is transfered to the seat better while the short time they are closed.
It's extremely rare to find engine builds on RUclips that does not replace parts with new ones The comments are all so angry that they should recognized -i wouldn't cut costs that much -just buy a new valve -just buy new springs The anger is too much on these builds
Anger? We are trying to prevent some poor soul that doesn't know any better watching this from thinking this is how it is suppose to be done. A lot of what he is doing is perfectly fine. Reuse of that valve is a hack job.
@@jakewade7388 Do you know how many engine build videos even exist? Thousands of them and I've seen so many of them. Reusing all the parts? It's extremely rare and this is more of a refurbished 454 build just to get it to work. It's a lethargic 454 build thats the purpose. He is doing everything that annoys RUclips comments instead of following the same trends
![Save Money And Lap Your Own Valves! [Measured Results]](/img/1.gif)
There’s a lot of hoping and praying in this series
I hope you're praying for it to work
And lots of hard work too.
@@xxvanishedxx7142 agreed
@@xxvanishedxx7142 harder than it should be
İt will be fine
I understand the allure of using “everything” on an Utube video engine rebuild...but changing a valve or two and replacing old valve springs would not kill the sprit of the work/video.
I agree. No use in ruining the engine.
Then you end up with the problem with springs that are stiffer than the rest
I'm glad he's doing a budget build without buying stuff
I can agree too, budget is great but it will be more of a budget if the rest of the engine doesn't work from one valve dropping or breaking.
@@benjamintaft3680 You understand that the engine is a 454 and not an LS9
@@gvi341984 Would it not still cause damage?
#1, I love your videos. Look forward to them. #2, As a Machinist, your “thread chasing” technique gives me unbelievable anxiety.
You do you my friend!
Exactly. He should be using an air impact for any threading work.
Jokes
I will admit, the 1/2 impact is not the way to go for thread chasing haha. Not sure why I was using it for this, probably something related to laziness. I would much more careful to make sure the threads were clean beforehand and that I didn't snap a chaser on aluminum parts or someone else's stuff.
@@FuzzyDiceProjectsHey if it’s good enough for Sloppymechanics, it’s good enough for me.
Hahah mild anxiety yes
@@FuzzyDiceProjects post another video please I'm dying.....not physically tho lol
I like the build, I really do. I understand the idea of doing it on a micro budget. What I don't get is being hard headed and not spending the $30ish for a new valve. An entire SET of 8 Gen IV intakes are only $70 from Summit. I like budget builds but I HATE even the idea of having to yank a head because I was so cheap I wouldn't spend money where it's smart.
I once decided to reuse a set of valve springs of unknown age in a motor I wasn't exactly being cheap with. A .030 over 302 Ford sporting KB Hyper pistons, SBC 1.94/1.60 valve. Comp cams billet roller rockers... you get the idea.
I ended up bending an intake valve for one weak spring.... 350 miles from home. Bus fare + time and fuel to return with a trailer + new valve and guide + gaskets + having to listen to my best friend for a week say "I told you so." + a new set of springs I should have purchased anyway.
You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink.
You realize he’s making a couple thousand dollars in ad revenue for each of these videos, right?
@@ChuckThree that's our point he has more than enough cash to do a better rebuild of this engine. A ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure.
@@rgbigdog Ounces add up. Plus the whole reason he’s doing the build is to test wether or not you need to abide by the “proper” process for rebuilding a mild engine. Worst case scenario he’s out $200, because RUclips has already paid for his labor time.
@@ChuckThree i think the worst case scenario is that valve breaks off or the whole valve drops in to the cylinder, punches a hole through the piston, bending a rod along the way. then damaging everything that has a bearing. possibly pushing that rod out the side of the block. THAT is why everyone is suggesting caution. not that he might have to later replace a valve. the step in the valve is going to prevent it from seating correctly holding it open.
I always love the statement "this isn't something I have had a problem with" usually on this channel that is followed later in the video or another one with problems
Maybe I should add "haven't had a problem with YET" lol
Dude I don’t think anyone would’ve faulted you for buying one brand new valve.
ONE??? Is that some sort of euphemism for 16?
I've been in his shoes before, not with car projects but just with other things in life. It's not about if someone would fault you for it, it's about "I said I wasn't gonna buy new ones and damnit I'm not gonna buy new ones."
I've been there before😂 can't say for sure, but I don't think there is going to be any changing his mind.
I guess sometimes it’s the challenge of it all. Plus, anyone would probably just go buy new stuff. I would. But would that keep someone viewing? “Tune in next week to see if it really works!”
@@trevorvanbremen4718 went to a shop once and said I need a rebuild? They said how far you want to go?😯
@@wdblackman I was in this situation I ended up with little valve head margin after machining on a lathe, instead of risking burning thin faced valves in a new engine I replace them with new ones cheap insurance and saves trouble just in case
Just like I did in the 60's, I had little money to work with, but learned a lot, lapping the valves makes a big difference, GREAT Job, GREAT VIDEO thanks
👍👍👍👍👍 indonesia
👍👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌☝✋ indonesia
I'll be doing the valves on my '71 Maverick, 200 inline six. This is by far the most detailed video I've seen on the cleaning process! Lots of work to do, but I know it will greatly improve the performance of the engine--thank you!
So I started watching this video and am loving every bit of it. I turn on CC to make sure I get all the details, but end up never paying any attention to them. You all need to turn on CC for this video and read them. THEY ARE HILARIOUS.
P.S, nice touch pitchshifting the sound of the taps at 17:02, that's very SteveMRE1989 of you :D
When I reconditioned a junkyard Vtec head for my Accord I lapped the valves pretty much just like this. I used old faithful (ancient Milwaukee corded drill), a small length of old windshield washer hose, and a bit of broken screwdriver shaft to get things done. Worked perfectly I used the lapping compound a bit differently using techniques that I learned from my teacher years ago.
Seriously? It’s like $10 or $15 to replace that single valve.
True
What's your point?
There are some cars it's very difficult to to find even a rocker arm especially if it's an old car
The quality of the slow motion is amazing.
👍👍👍👍👌
Coming from someone who loves keeping things as "original" as I can, please replace that valve while you still can. It will take 10 minutes now and give you peace of mind, vs 6 hours later / constant headaches trying to figure out if your problem is from that valve.
Everyone’s really tripping over that cylinder... I’m sure he knows man... can we just appreciate this mans skills and the content he’s pushing out.
Woah. Wasn't expecting part two so quickly!
I'm no mechanic, But that extra-lap'd valve seems like its going to be a problem.
to me , the valve seats are ruined, lapping is good to make a light cleaning or a final fitment on a freshly machined valve and seat to confirm the contact and usually not more pronounced than 1 minute for each valve.
Normaly hand milling the seat and throw the valve in the trash and lap and new one.
If he ground that step down,it would flow much better but might be a bit sketchy..realistically a new valve wouldve been far more smart while its apart
You're definitely not a mechanic because it will be perfectly fine lol
@@jonathanlawson4667 if everyone in these comments was a light bulb in a porch, you’d be burned out 😂
This ain’t gonna be a 1000 horse bbc but I’m damn curious to see what kind of power it does make
@Mike Studmuffin lmao
@Mike Studmuffin I'm dead 💀
I'll be interested to hear the firing order... My guess is something like 1-miss-miss-miss-miss-2-miss-miss
Also, I suggest totally avoiding any form of compression test or leakdown test
Anything over 300hp would be a miracle
@@newcomerjason7791 wrong
I had to wait sooo long on the machine shop that this time i just bought all new valves-lightly lapped them-good to go😁👍 took 2 hrs😃
The crazy thing about projects like these is I bet he spends as much time filming and editing as he does working on the actual engine!
I'd bet it's more like 10:1 in favor of time spend editing.
👍👍👍👍👌✋✋
I’ve done this whole job before. It definitely needed to be done. Wish I would have had this video. But I put my heads in a blast cabinet. Then lapped the valves. They were practically brand new when I was done.
The cleaned cyl heads look great!
I have to confess I was not expecting them to be that good.
At the end of the day it’s all about working with what you have. Yes I would have replaced the valve as that had gone way beyond what I’d work with on someone else’s car. But as a project - a task that you want to carry out ‘in house’ without any machine shop input - you do what you can with what you have. I have done this many times to keep things simple and ‘in house’ - and if you are sensible on what you think is achievable you can do great things and be proud of it - and it will work!
17:00 very subtle, I like it.
I would be nervous about that one valve good luck great video
For the budget build mechanic, nothing beats this. You are a master of balancing thrift with reliability
Great to see some more videos. I always look forward to your carefully narrated procedures. Very relaxing and educational. Keep up the good work!
Nothing like waking up to this! Great content and work man.
I like your hose idea on the valves. I was doing research and found that most pros dont recommend doing this with a drill from that end because you can cause wear on the valve guides and to only do this by hand. I do this with a drill on the valve side by taking a matching socket adapter to fit the suction cup and thats how i do it with a drill from the front. Never thought of the tube tho. Good stuff
I think I get it. It's like a Cuban rebuild, work with what you've got type deal.
I mean, those cars do drive. If it's stupid but it's working...
Very nicely done and good to see people using and refurbishing exactly what they got props to you
A new valve, which could be purchased individually is under 40 bucks. But you got some real savings putting that turd back in. 22 bucks from Summit Racing as I priced it, but that old valve is just dandy.
You actually released this fast enough that I hadn't caught up with the other one in my watch-later list.
Love to see the pace picking up. Here's some supportive words to help keep up your motivation :)
👍👍👍👍👍👌
idk why i watch these i know nothing about cars but its so nice to watch
if i had insisted on reusing those valves i would probably have ground the step away from lapping them. and maybe even better rough ground the valves before hand and then lapped them to fit.
Well done 👍👍I'm in the process of rebuilding a 3.4 tacoma engine myself. Yes, it takes a lot of time and effort, but it is also very rewarding doing it myself. Cheers 👍
I’ve been using a 15L ultrasonic cleaner this week to clean a much smaller engine head. I’d definitely recommend it as it dissolves carbon and surface rust on all the surfaces including channels you can’t normally get Into
thanks for the hard work recording these videos on top of the work youre already doing on these cars.
Ahhh yes this is the video i was waiting for in this series. I really didnt think those valves would get smooth enough.
I've been hear when you first bought the vehicle and watched till now and honestly I've enjoyed every second
Love the channel, but, I wouldn't be able to sleep at night knowing that "that" valve was reused. This comes from a person very used to "falling down the rabbit hole" using used parts.
I'm pretty sure my professor would get a heart attack seeing that valve reused...
Absolutely nothing wrong with that valve lol it's a engine rebuild not a performance engine people wtf lol the lack of knowledge from you so-called mechanics is amazing to me
@@jonathanlawson4667 "Absolutely nothing wrong"
Dude. That valve pitting would put craters on Mars to shame...
@@edim108 valve was a little pitted up at the top when he was done and I guarantee you that valve would seal just as good as the rest of them lol it's a rebuild not a performance build
@@jonathanlawson4667 "a little pitted" is an understatement and a half.
And he said himself that this 454 is getting a blower...
If the plan was to just rebuild it on a budget and leave it NA, probably nothing bad would ever happen after reusing that valve.
But when you add forced induction to the mix, you run the risk of that valve not being able to hold up to extra stress.
Great video, just what I needed to see, specially the pressure washing and cleaning. THANK YOU.
Excellent video on cleaning the heads. I like your idea of the rubber hose and drill. Some videos clamp the drill right onto the valve stem but I never liked that. Thanks for the video.
Do a leak check on your valves with gasoline or alcohol to verify sealing fill chamber get brite light and look into ports for fluid.
When I was putting headers on my truck only 1 of the 12 manifold bolts came out without breaking. Said fuck it and decided to pull the heads and I got a good set of used heads
When it's that many broken? Totally understandable
i got them all out and i really wasnt that careful,thats on a 36 year old engine and that was in car
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 Well sometimes you get lucky, on my old jeep I was gonna do exhaust manifold gaskets. Snapped the first bolt then said "You know what? It's not that bad of an exhaust leak" and walked away cause I don't have any extractors lol
Fantastic work man, really! I can’t wait to see this thing run!
Top tip: a little dab of grease on the valve keepers will make them stick to the valve.
When I'm rushing through I often forget little stuff like that, it's a great tip!
"Rebuilt 454 heads $500 no lowballers,I know what I have"
There is so much more care in this than any craigslist post.
I can't wait to see this engine grenade itself
keep up the good work
Great Job Mr. Finger. you are doing all that can be done to have a successful result. I believe this engine will run quite well for quite a while. Since it will be Supercharged the low compression ratio of the original engine should suit the extra air nicely. I am quite looking forward to see that all of your efforts pay dividends.
Holy crap part 2 was fast!!! AWESOME!!!
Excellent job on cleaning the head's!
The thread cleaner on the impact was particularly neat.
love this series, keep up the good work!
you can also set the valve locks by swatting each valve a few times with a rubber mallet.
I am all for cheap this is a great video I have a damaged engine in a vehicle in a bad area some of these tips are very helpful! The cylinder 3 intake valve..... looks better but the $13 might have been a better option she is getting really thin.
you really clean the cylinder head in the garden? engine oil, engine cleaner and detergent. this is very good for drinking water and for nature. you are an idol!
Loving this series so far! Can’t wait for the next upload!
If there's any play in that overlapped valve's guide it's going to get hung up on that ledge. I'd definitely replace that one.
So much progress... so many videos to watch for the 78... makes me worried there's not much being done with the 91! Excited for the next video on the 91 lol
I’ve been watching this series since you literally GOT this car back a few years ago this has been so long 😂
I would definitely consider getting a new valve and gasket matching and smoothing out the ports.
Many of the commments are "condeming/skeptical" of your work. I understand that there are optimal ways of rebuilding engines. But when you buy an engine for 200dollars and want a cheap solution you want to fix as much as possible with the parts you have. This is often where I found my self either way. I may have an engine and some machines to "fix stuf" but no money for parts... I like how u try to fix it instead of buying all new parts. Hope it will turn out good. Love the videos as always. Keep it up amigo!!!
I love those series keep them coming
Im impressed that you can actually make engine building as boring as a documentary on wood chips.
Your doing a good job, I've seen shops do worse and even get payed.
This is fantastic. Im doing the same on some old Ford windsor engines but a shop crane rebuild is in progress lol
When a bolt is broken off below flush, you can use a little bit of copper to protect the external threads while you build up weld to put a nut on.
Leftover cylinders heads... Just like Mom used to make. Yum!
Loving this biuld!!!! Makes me think I could actually do this.
Thanks for great video. It helps a lot. Especially spining with hose
👍👍👍👍👍.from indonesia
funny,i just did this last fall on a set of sbc vortec heads(made my own lapping compound from grinding wheel dust and grease,lol)the valves and seats came out really nice and the heads work great.silliest thing i did was after swapping in a new hot cam and buttoning everything up,I realized i didn't torque down the timing chain sprocket.DARN IT...off came the water pump,off came the timing chain cover after loosening off the oil pan AGAIN....All this was done with the ENGINE IN THE CAR!!!
Very cool! What amazing production values! Well done, with great humor. 👍🔧
Never in my life have I seen someone waste this much time on Peanut port cylinder heads! 🤣😂🤣😂
Guys are running good power with them still...for average street use a good head still...check out Mark at vortech pro running 10's with peanut ports... remember it's about velocity as long as you don't plan on twisting high rpm
I JUST WANT TO SEE THIS PROJECT FINISHED AND ON THE ROAD!!!!!
Awesome work. I’m so pleased to be supporting you. Cheers🤙🤙🤙
Nice way to recycle heads. I hope that one over lapped valve and seat are going to work fine.
I'd replace that valve from Nr 3, the wider seat for the valve will cause excessive heat transfer to the valve and if it overheats the hardening of the valve will get compromized and the valve will melt, atleast thats what i was tought lol. Also some valves have a hardened coating that is very thin and excessive grinding can remove that layer, might not be a problem since its more common on modern engines but you never know.
👍👍👍👍👍👌☝
I think the head gasket should flow as freely as necessary to take up all the irregularities. It is not going to get out of alignment while it’s sitting on the dowels. The smoother the surface the easier it can seal.
Your videos are always satisfying to watch
I have a bad feeling about that valve. I'm no expert on engine internals but I sure hope that valve doesn't come back to haunt you when you supercharge it
he is going to supercharge this engine? OMG
Laps new geometry into a valve and mentions possibly port matching like a boss... 🤣
Surprised at how clean you were able to get the heads by hand
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2 things - the main purpose of lapping isn't sealing, it is making good contact so that the valve heat gets conducted into the head. Valves adjusted too tight will run pretty well without eve touching the seat but they will burn from lack of cooling.
Also, if you don't have a good straightedge you can check with the other head and block. Spin them around and pair them up backwards. In theory two mating surfaces could warp the same way and still fit if both faces are matching curves, but the only shape where face A and B, A and C, and B&C all fit together is a flat plane. That's how you make a flat plane without any flat reference. Take three pieces of stable cast iron and lap them together A to B, B to C, C to A and flip them end to end every now and then.
I suspect you’ll have issues with compression once fully assembled. Having a valve sitting “deeper” into the seat, will not fit within tolerance between the camshaft and keep the valve open.
It's called valve lash
That intake valve, really needed to be replaced. It should be ok but it isn’t going to seal as good as it could, especially since you plan on supercharging it.
If it turns out to be a problem he'll put more money into doing it right. If he's proven anything over the past years of doing this it's that he is not against pulling out an engine and fixing it
Nice editing and filming angles :)
I don't understand why you want to save that one valve. It's toast. It's still toast after all that work.
I love the cc captioning.
Those seats and valve heads cleaned up pretty well. My only trepidation really is the difference in installed height of the valve tips especially in regards to that one you really had to grind down. I would have expected it to have been overcome by shimming the rest of the springs to match the height of the tallest valve but then you get into differing seat pressures, etc. You could also overcome it with different length pushrods but that would seem to be far more difficult, logistically. Do you expect that the resulting change in effective lift won't have significant effect on the engine over all? As this stuff was recorded over a year ago I would be interested to know, if you're that far ahead, what the impact was. if any. Because science! :) Very much enjoying the series.
Yum. Pickled engine parts. My favorite snack. XD
I feel like their should be a pool on this motors longevity. Everyone gets a square with mileage or hours run before it gives up the ghost.
yeah, but what's the definition of failure? it could granade completely, it could have a repairable failure, it could run on 7 cylinders, or it could just be low on power.
It may or may not run a long time. Performance will take a hit for sure.
@@jakewade7388 unless it breaks or some failure is cause by the misfit valve, i have no doubt it will run a long time. it's hard to kill these things but like you said, performance might be limited to 7 or less cylinders.
Always a good time, great work man.
Thank you for uploading q new videos 2 days after the previous video.
Great job my friend! Congrats! 😄👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
The xylophone noises were a nice touch
I really love your channel. Can’t wait to see the next video.
Very enjoyable video! Thankyou for sharing!
I think you might get in trouble with this extensive valve lapping. The meeting/sealing surface of the valve and the seat seems to be way too big. That usually causes issues by having the closing force of the valve spring distributed on a too large sealing surface. That might not seal properly.
I can't quite picture why the wider distribution of valve spring force would be of concern, could you explain further?
For what it's worth, that intake seat is still narrower than the exhaust seats. Because the valve is larger the overall area is still larger though, of course.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects the valve seat angle and poppet valve angle are supposed to be cut at different angles so that when they are lapped in you see a thin shinny ring. This ring is called a 'knife edged seat'. The pressure of the spring will be concentrated on a small surface area and seal better. Good luck. I like your videos.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects As Zane Grey said, the force of the spring is putting pressure on the sealing surface. The larger the surface gets, the lower the pressure will be, so the less sealing you have. It‘s just the simle physics equation of force, surface and pressure.
The exhaust valves are much smaller in diameter, so the surface is smaller as well and therefore, that sealing edge can be a bit wider, that the heat is transfered to the seat better while the short time they are closed.
It's extremely rare to find engine builds on RUclips that does not replace parts with new ones
The comments are all so angry that they should recognized
-i wouldn't cut costs that much
-just buy a new valve
-just buy new springs
The anger is too much on these builds
Anger? We are trying to prevent some poor soul that doesn't know any better watching this from thinking this is how it is suppose to be done. A lot of what he is doing is perfectly fine. Reuse of that valve is a hack job.
@@jakewade7388 Do you know how many engine build videos even exist? Thousands of them and I've seen so many of them. Reusing all the parts? It's extremely rare and this is more of a refurbished 454 build just to get it to work.
It's a lethargic 454 build thats the purpose. He is doing everything that annoys RUclips comments instead of following the same trends
I appreciate the confidence. Really like the content. Best of luck with this build.