How to (easily!) Model a Perko Boat Switch! Fusion Friday #22
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- How to use Fusion 360 to import a photo of a broken part and use the loft command to re-create the part then machine it out! Fusion 360 calls this "insert attached canvas" - I call it import a photo :)
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Great tutorial! Haas machines have pesky door interlocks that won't let you run with the doors open. I took a photo of the door latch, imported it, calibrated it, modeled it and 3d printed it. The whole process took less than an hour and now we're running dangerous with doors wide open! Thanks John.
Seriously who does the thumbs down. Love you videos I've always been a manual machinist your videos have taught me so much about cnc thanks
Agreed rotation of the canvas is a pain. There should be a calibrate function to make horizontal or set angle.
I discovered how to use the draft feature on tuesday, which would eliminate the need to add a construction plane and second sketch.
Thanks for showing how to model the fixture. Very helpful!
Thanks so much, John! I always learn something on Friday!
I just started using Fusion 360 since I saw Your videos and wow...It is very intuitive y easy to use.
There's actually a command called '3 point circle'... I'd suggest creating the three points explicitly (before or after you draw the circle), then you can fiddle with them afterwards. Fix the ones you aren't currently adjusting.
When you set the two circles horizontal, that will have just moved one of them vertically and won't have preserved the distance between them. (You got away with it because the angle is small.) To preserve the distance you need to draw a line between them, then set that horizontal. Another way would be to complete the skewed sketch including the line you want to become horizontal, then use the 'align' tool to align it with an axis and the origin. You can probably move the imported image at the same time that way, and avoid using move's shitty rotate feature.
Love this series
Seems like you could lock those circles in faster if you drew them using the 3-point circle tool, selecting points on the intact arc. Assuming the edges were really circular in the first place, that should construct the circles exactly right and not require any adjustment.
Another way to get an accurate tracing without any perspective distortion is to put the part down on a flatbed scanner and just scan it. If you also include a ruler in the scan, you can easily calibrate the resulting image.
I found using a scanner (like the ones on the scanner/printer/copier) will get rid of the perspective problem. it works great on parts the fit on the scanner, but the larger ones.
Adam
99793. Nearly at 100K there mate. Nicely done.
Once you have the bottom profile drawn-up you could have probably done a "pull" with a draft angle. Put in 5° (or whatever), make sure it's going the correct direction (so it's tapered in instead of flared out) and you're basically done. The top and bottom of the solid will be parallel at that point so lop it off with an angled rectangle going around the top. Then you could fillet it and cut the cavities just like you did in the vid.
I think the way you did it, with the loft, was fine, and really didn't take much longer. But if you were cutting the relief of this part (as if you were making a mold) it seems like it might be slightly beneficial to know the exact draft angle. It would, of course, be more crucial if you were trying to get the smallest angle possible instead of this cosmetic angle.
I thin Fusion actually calls it something other than draft on the check box--maybe taper?
very well done teaching is defiantly your thing john :)
Is that thunder in the background starting around 12:20? Impressive!
I thought the simplest approach to creating the fixture would be a boolean subtraction from a block (representing the stock) - assuming Fusion allows boolean operations (I use other Autodesk/3D software, so I'm not sure).
Didn't see it posted but if you need a finer degree adjustment slider you can go to the bottom center of the screen, click on "Grid and Snaps" then on "Set Increments", you can then change "Rotation Increments" to 0.1 deg and it will adjust it by .1 deg instead of 5 deg.
great video
A much easier way would have been to do a press pull with bottom sketch (skip top sketch) then do a draft (under modify tab) on the top surface to desired angle then do a seperate draft on sides, add the radius and boom your done. Also if you have a printer that can scan you could scan the bottom of the part for your canvas. I own an extremely cheap ass printer/scanner and have had good luck scaling within a thou or maybe even less, done mostly flat parts tho not sure if it would give a good scan with taller parts.Hope this helps.
Great videos, fun to watch.
NYC CNC Its 2 simple drafts which take 2 mouse clicks and a numerical entry each. There is no way it's harder and it is definitely quicker.The order you do them is important at times tho (top first then sides) It takes about 30 seconds give it a try. To each his own I guess, just tryin to help.
You can limit perspective distortion by setting the camera far from the part, and zooming in. The father you go the less distortion you get. Megazoon cameras FTW.
Great Video.
I don't know if anyone mentioned it but you can temporarily disable snap to by just holding down the CTL key.
cool video
Great video - it's nice to see the process somebody uses for something like this.
I noticed that you have a new mouse. Do you like it? I've had trouble finding corded mice that I like. My current one is functional, but not great. It has side scroll on the wheel, which drives me nuts sometimes. That one looks promising, but it's a little pricey. If it works well though, it might be worthwhile!
Great technique! I'm wondering if a flatbed scanner could be used to digitize the part directly. At a scan rate of 300 dpi you should get measurements that are precise to around .003” (theoretically at least). The nature of scanning would also prevent distortion. Of course this only works for a flat profile, but still it’s a start on those pesky parts
Don't suppose you know if there is a book on Fusion 360. Whilst I think the videos are excellent in that they make Fusion 360 look easy, there is always an element of presumption where the presenter assumes that the viewer has a degree of prior knowledge. It's like asking a computer whizz how to do something and hearing him (or her) say: "It's easy, you just yada yada yada...."
I can tell you how a doppler radar or a 3 phase generator works because I know all the stuff you need to know to understand how 'E' and 'H' waves propagate etc etc etc but I wish there was a simple easy to understand book called Fusion 360 for Dummies. God it would make designing stuff easier.
Very good info, thanks John. When you made the fixture though don't you have to make the protruding part slightly smaller? Whenever I try these things I always forget to add some tolerance to get the type of fit I need. And I find this very difficult to get right. If a try to press a 6mm rod in a 6mm hole it wont fit if you understand what I'm meaning.
John
Well instructed ,I feel that I have just scratched the surface with F360
You covered the fixing well , it's always a chalanging part of any machining manual or CNC , how the blue blazers to I hold this thing and which order do I machine it
Stuart
I think it would have looked better if you used 'draft' to make the taper instead of 'loft', like you would for an extruded plastic component. It makes it really easy to make all angles of the taper equal. Don't know though if Fusion360 supports that.
I have used a flat bed scanner.
Hey John, hopefully this gets to you. I recently recreated the top half of this part so that I could run a 3d contour for the first time. I did great considering the machine I used. I needed to use the 3d parallel path to clean up the top face, but I couldn't get the toolpath to only touch the top face like you did in the video (14:07). When I tried to do it, no matter what I did it wanted to include the sides of the part. It didn't seem like I could set the bottom based on the top because of the 5 degree angle. What am I missing? Thanks!
NYC CNC Gotcha, ya please do some more videos showing the CAM side of things as that's what makes fusion 360 so powerful. I'm trying to learn as much about fusion 360 as I can so that I can bring it to a "makerspace" type lab that is opening in my town. Thanks for your response!
Really love your videos :) Thanks for sharing :D
I have a question. How does one go about measuring angles for e.g. loft angles, taper angles of a 3d object in real life ? I do a lot of designing now a days for prototyping in 3d printing and final machining (self taught CAD designer). Sometimes I need to measure chamfers and fillets to use and some angle of curvature on certain objects like smart phones etc. I usually scan them using a scanner then do the canvas technique :p . But there are some objects that I cant scan, how do you pros measure the angles/dimensions/radius or whatever it is called ?
Thank you !
+NYC CNC The gauge is what I was looking for. Thank you !
For the second part, LOL I dont own a TORMACH :D
Any other gauges for measuring tapers ?
Awesome videos, I have been subscribedand watching for a while now.. I use fusion360 all the time for misc stuff... I need a part made, its a pretty simple part as far as programming, and I used fusion360. It is a copper adapter and needs to be threaded on both ends (female to male)... it is approx 2" at its widest (cylinder shape) and approx 2" long. can I send you the file for a quote and turnaround time?
NYC CNC sweet... email/file sent!
another great video
Im seeing a weird flickering at 1080P60 settings thou. 720P works fine ( as do the lower settings) just thought id let you know.. Never had a problem with any of your other videos
Just reporting back
Cheers
+NYC CNC Hi, Ive tried all manner of things and its still there but not any where near as bad this morning ( Singapore time) it started at 1:26 only lasts for a couple of secs.
It could be at my end of course but Google chrome/ RUclips auto seleceted 1080P60 so clearly it thought the stream was good enough.
Anyways not to worry and thanks for the prompt reply.
Cheers
Hi mate. Sorry, but you did not look at your outline that you drew properly. I'm pretty sure that the lines between the small circle and the big one has a slight bow inwards in them. I think that it is to give the knob a bit of a waist, and make it less bulky.
+Marcel Timmers - For each side you could set a large circle (maybe 6 inches) constrained tangent to the two original circles. That would give a "waist" to the part.
I was sort of thinking the same thing, but I would not know how to do it. The computer program is far too complicated for a simple soul like me. Besides that , it bores me rigid.