Nissan Juke-DIY Diagnosis of Hard Start, Rich Condition That Shops Say Nothing is Wrong!
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- 2011 Nissan Juke with 1.6L 4cylinder Turbo that has a hard start problem in the mornings and runs rich. No check engine light on and owner has tried 3 times to get the car repaired but no one can find anything wrong!
I hate it for the owner of the car, but it's always fun to discover the cause of an issue. Nice detective work.
hey Wyatt!
Agree 100%- the best is when you find it's a simple fix. Then everyone is happy!!
@@TheDisgruntledMechanicI beat you for once!
I just watched your trailer from 8 years ago. You’re a friggin legend my man. I’ve heard of you fromSouth Main Auto and a few of my colleagues, but good god I had no idea. Thank you, you have inspired us, and you have saved our ass more than a few times. Straight Rockstar!!
oh wow man thanks!! that’s an honor!!
Lovely comment 😊
THANKS FOR UN AWESOME COMMENT.
You forgot to check the GROUNDS.
Oh my god hahahaha I totally meant to reference that as promised in my last video hahaha!!!! I even thought of it before filming and made mental note to reference that meme, but honestly when I found I literally had nothing to go on I got as bit distracted as I was trying to think how I am going to even fix the car much less make the video watchable lol.
Dang man, its such a great Meme!
tertiary! i had to go to the Funk & Wagnell for that! someone was reading readers digest enrich you word power!
Hahahahah I do that totally out of habit- its actually a science term in protein structure that I use a lot. Primary, secondary, tertiary and quanternary lol.
Tip: To get grams for the Maf sensor, open the drop down menu then press the scale icon.
Good to know!!!
Any time you look at fuel trims.. It's a good idea to throw the MAF data on there also. Because if your MAF is havening a wonky reading at idle-- it could be feeding the wrong fuel and then the 02 sensors are just accounting for that- through the fuel trims. Obviously in this case it's the oil-- as you showed; but it's just good practice to always have that MAF beside the fuel trims. (and the 02 sensors for that matter).
Hahaha you would think I would do that ever since that one Ford F250 video lol!!!
I actually do always include that but didn’t in this video only because the indication of an oil leak was so prevalent.
the Chevy Trax has lots of problems with the turbos and the clogged oil line. just incase you get 1 of those in. great diagnoses as usual and explanation for the customer!
Thanks Mike- I assume that has the "infamous" 1.4L Turbo that fails all the time? I think the Cruze has it too.
@@SchrodingersBox yep!
Nice diagnosis Matt. Sometimes you have to dig to find the problem. Time for a turbo & system cleaning but the customer will stop their hard start & oil consumption issue before they hurt the engine unless of course they decide to get rid of it.
You can change lbs/sec to grams per second by clicking the scale icon to far right once you select it.
oh hell I didn’t know that hahahah. thanks!!!
a man of science as always.
when i finally get enough money for tools and a garage, I wanna fix stuff the way you fix stuff
diagnostics first
You can do it!!! The idea is to build as you go. I swear to god- I honestly started with a small tool kit from Home Depot. That’s it. Everything else got added on as I built up income through the business.
Good job Matt
We need more information about turbo chargers
Because most car makers are now replacing V6 to turbocharged 4
We will do that my friend!!!
Matt I'm not a hater I swear but there are a few issues with the troubleshooting;
Oil from pcv system gets piped back into the turbo inlet to get re burned so it's common to see oil inside inlet pipes and also the pressure side piping and inside intercoolers.
The crack is definitely a problem, but the piece you're looking at doesn't have oil going through it. The shaft that compressor wheel rides on is in another section of the turbo called the center cartridge. The center cartridge contains the bearings and oil. The aluminum piece with the crack just sits over the wheel and will only have air going through it.
It would have also been good to check the turbo for shaft play which could indicate a bad oil seal which is a source the oil could be coming from.
Hard starting after sitting for a while can be injectors leaking, even though initially you didn't see any loss in pressure, it doesn't take a lot of gas leaking through to throw fuel trims far enough to make it not start. This would explain the rich condition at idle too. The oil gets gas diluted and will cause the car to run rich as the vapors from the crankcase get sucked and burned in the engine by the pcv system.
If i was the one working on this I'd pull the spark plugs immediately after running and inspect for any fuel running down with the boroscope, then look again after it sat the length of time required for the hard start to return. I'd also pinch or disconnect the pcv while watching fuel trims to observe if it's making any change.
People do not realize that their cheap little car now needs to be looked after as is its more of an exotic. Namely, more frequent oil changes, being very gentle on the engine until the oil warms up and do wait for a few mins before turning the engine off if it's been working hard. The scrapyards are full of these small turbo engined cars and I think it's mainly due to owner abuse.
Totally agree. Especially on that a turbo engine should be especially consistent in oil changes.
Thank you so much for making these videos! I started to become interested in diy/diagnostics after being sold a piece of poop. I've learned a lot in a few years of fixing and diagnosing myself but your videos have really helped in developing my process.
Not to mention the fact that it's satisfying to not have ppl be able to lie to me about these things anymore :D
The oil in the exhaust pipe is also a clue with a turbocharged engine that you have a turbocharger oil issue. Oil can pass from the turbocharger directly into the exhaust, bypassing the engine and combustion chamber altogether. The catalytic converter will not be able to burn all of this oil either since it is only functioning properly once at operating temperature.
Absolutely. But oil on the tailpipe also indicates any internal oil leak. A car I saw with leaking valve seals had so much oil all over the bumper it looked like an industrial age chimney.
Another issue you would want to take into consideration is possible replacing the intercooler. You don't know how much oil is sitting in there and could be an issue down the road.
Yes I did drain the intercooler of oil prior to validating the improved fuel trims.
This was very helpful! My Juke is doing the exact same thing. I'm diving in! I bet I have the same results you found. Thank you, Nissan had zero answers. They just tried to blame me for the oil consumption saying I didn't change my oil often enough. Not true. Changed every 4000 miles. Before finding you I had also researched, found, and replaced my oil feed line issue but unfortunately I think the damage has already been done. Will be interesting to see if mine is cracked too. I love your analytical mind! Thanks bud.
It's crazy to me to think a professional shop couldn't find that out. When i was working at Volvo, any time anyone came in with burning oil concerns we'd look for oil in the turbo plumbing
I have never pulled a turbo inlet or outlet pipe off without oil pouring out, I consider it normal after doing this dozens of times.
Also recommend to do oil change as well since it is possible to mix with fuel
Oh absolutely. the oil had a wicked appearance like Tar. definitely needs changed.
OMG...I can't imagine the amount of exhaust gases in your garage 😶🌫
Yeah I do get asked about that… I normally open the door whenever I run a car but in the winter I have a collapsible exhaust hose that I connect to the tailpipe for exhaust to exit the garage.
Good to know re: the Blue Devil sealer.
Yeah I absolutely those snake oil type treatments but there is no denying it worked on a confirmed cylinder compromise to the cooling system for 4 months and over 2000 miles. I think it’s everything to do with the specific type of cylinder head failure that allowed the product to work at all, but the fact is, it made a difference that was proven quantitatively.
The cat conundrum could be taken care of by leaving it unattended in town for a few days. File an insurance claim.😅😅😅😅
Another great inspection and diagnosis video , saved for future reference ! Thanks Matt
JB weld! 😂 I have the cousin a Nissan Cube, there is ZERO area to work on anything in these I swear
Absolutly love and enjoy your content Matt. Thank ya much
glad to hear it!! It’s a ton of fun. Very close to just doing this full time!!
awesome !!!@@SchrodingersBox
Super helpful ! You make learning fun !! Thanks again !
Glad to hear that. I do try to make it fun. It’s fun for me, that’s for sure. I just love solving the mystery and watch all the little data points all come together at the end.
You need your wrench logo on the back and Schrodinger's Bawks on the front.
I looked for those weird codes... Couldn't find squat. Come on Nissan!!!
I cant look at Scotty Kilmer the same anymore, i just crack up laughing thinking about the spiders. THANKS ALOT!!
Lol the really sad thing is it turns out he was kind of right about it- there was a TSB issued about it from a manufacturer years ago but the actual incidence of spider webs blocking evap was very minimal.
Nice analysis. It seems weird that the LTFT just stayed at zero and did not vary even a little. Also, I think the engine is made by Renault- which might help with those cryptic PID's.
That’s good to know- I will check some Renault literature and hopefully get answers to both. I was not aware of that!!
I have a 2009 Nissan Murano I recently had to clean my battery terminals and reconnected everything put my scan tool back on and my LTFT did the same thing for about a month until they came back.
Nissan: Goes into financial trouble as their quality drops down.
Engineers: We should improve our quality!
Management: Nah, let's cut the costs by merging with Renault!
I also appreciate the way they continue to pack the engine compartment tighter & tighter. Pretty soon it'll be just the Asian great great tiny grandmother's tiny hands that will fit in there. With me yelling at them to wrench faster!. I guess. lol. Nissan. what can you do?
" did you check the gas cap". 😂
Never first but I always show up
You were first today lol!!
Matt, awesome approach/thought process to find the problem thanks for sharing as always brother.
Thanks for watching, always appreciate you!!
@SchrodingersBox and lappreciate ur time and dedication for this chanell.
Good Job! Matt, I have to have one of those bore scopes! Please inform!
Vicki got it for me last year as a Christmas present. it’s called Finder Borescope. she got it from Amazon is all I know.
Just a thought, Matt - is there any possibility of running your borescope through your laptop? You'd then have a bigger screen with the option of viewing it on the wall-mounted monitor. I'm guessing that your camera is probably just for iOS, otherwise you would have thought of that idea already. (I'm afraid that's as good as my advice seems to get these days.) 🙄
Yes its totally possible to do that! I havent set it up but you are correct it would present much better. Will do that next time!
Happy to help. 👍
Rhage73 here. Thanks for posting. Always enjoy your videos. Good joB again.
I haven't even seen the engine yet pretty early on in the video. But if it does it when it's cold, there is a few places I would start, MAF or coolant temp sensor and then I would expand my troubleshooting from there. Reason being there are not a lot of sensors the computer uses before it gets up to operating temperature 3:45
Lol, some people think having scan tool is answer. I have one but is useless for me I eventually use my head.
It needs lot of analysis
MBS moshitoa 🇿🇦
The trick is knowing that the scantool gives you direction- it doesn't give you an answer. It also helps to know you have to follow a sequence from general to specific. For example you might see a high fuel trim. So now you narrow to data that may indicate why that is and one of those data is fuel rail pressure which you see is low. You then curve the pressure against RPM and confirm there is a fuel delivery issue that gets worse under demand. You know know to manually chase a fuel delivery issue.
Without the scantool there would be dozens of possible things that werent ruled out- O2 sensor, MAP sensor, MAF sensor, injectors etc....
The scantool is absolutely valuable but it doesn't just spit out an answer.
Those CAC hoses will be getting soft and ready to burst.
Another great informative diagnostic video
Hey Matt, I can watch your GREAT videos using Samsung Internet. Thank you so much for what you do. Oh, the email didn't work but thats ok. May God bless you.
Thanks man. Did I mistype my email? Schrodingers_box@yahoo.com.
Grasias
The exhaust might just rust a little slower too!
hahahaha true that!! Change the cat every year but the rest of exhaust lasts like stainless steel!!
Actually an awesome engine but the turbo oil drain line is a hard pipe that gets super heated by the exhaust manifold and oil cokes up, it gets clogged and cannot drain. Turbo then fails. Replacing the stock oil line with a nylon braided one can prevent the issue from happening.
Interesting. we previously battled a pretty severe oil leak that turned out the be two leaks one from the oil cooler and the other from the PCV “box”. I didn’t see evidence of any oil return issues or anything but good to know.
I did notice the car has a coolant leak too as there was a puddle of coolant under the car in my garage.
This car had some woes.
Turbo? No leaves using oil hard starting rich man they could be several things depending on how bad the oil leak is turbo seal really severe that valve stem seals rich on cold start probably burning all the oil but that would be white smoke so I had to lean towards MAF sensor or coolant temp because a computer uses them even before it gets up to closed-loop so I can't say that in general that would be ignorant of me but some computers do love watching the process though I've learned a lot from you over the years man I appreciate you 6:21
Good diagnoses. IMO turbo is a joke
I much prefer superchargers. Turbos are surprisingly "back engineered" as they have tried to resolve issues over the years for lag, heat, low RPM response, etc.
Lots of those in the UK, people either love them or hate them. They are built and designed in the UK, I don't think there is very much input from Japan in the Juke.
Well I hate them. And if I lived in the UK I would hate them hahahahahaha.
Great video thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching, Howard!!
What model of Autel scantool is that Matt? I just noticed you're running an Autel
that’s a MS909. Autel gave it to me in exchange for making some training videos for their tools that endusers can access.
lol, I thought it looked familiar...great content as always bro!
I'll take a punt that those PIDs ending in rvu and rvl are range value limits. We only saw them at idle, but I did notice a couple of things.
PFRUx makes me think fuel pressure, figures on idle correlate.
MALPRVx could be fuel trim related. Again, figures on idle correlate.
As for TP, throttle position ... measured in ms though, didn't see correlation of course. No clue about US.
Yes good observation. I also figured the PRFU must be fuel because it’s like 700PSI!!
Maybe I missed some details, but cracked turbo leaks boost that could lead to rich condition but under load only not at start at all. Leaking oil could eventually contaminate upstream oxygen sensor resulting in under reporting oxygen level but then rich conditions would show it's false good level accordingly anyway. I don't know if leaking oil would contaminate downstream oxygen sensor, too.
Yeah I have been thinking about that. the crack seems to be on the intake side and not the compressor side so I don’t know that there is actually a boost leakage. I was unable to find any boost data or even MAP data on the scantool to check for that.
As for the downstream sensor, we know it absolutely would contaminate it because there was tons of wet oil at the tailpipe. it’s amazing to me the catalytic converter worked but we know it does because the downstream sensor did respond to lean condition when I let off the throttle. I should have shown that in the video but didn’t think of it. But it shows the rear O2 does respond to variables and isn’t pegged rich from contamination-- YET.
@@SchrodingersBox At cold start both oxygen sensors should not be at operating temperature so I would assume they should not affect AFR unless they are applied from stored data.
Correct. The O2 sensor and fuel trim data was shown after the car warmed up a bit. It actually took about 4 minutes in real life. The front sensor warmed up a minute or two before the rear sensor but I started the camera when front sensor started responding.
@@SchrodingersBox If intake leak happens in such case, unplugging MAF should show AFR difference but assuming that oxygen sensors are clean. In other words - headache.
We all must live with Asperger's syndrome 😉
Oil valve stem seals usually show as white or bluish smoke on start up if I'm correct.usually black smoke can be turbo or fuelling issue right?Cheers for the cool vids Matt always love your thought process also check oil return line from turbo for a blockage that can cause turbo seals to fail.
It can vary depending how much there is and engine temperature. I once had a car with a stuck open fuel injector that emitted a white cloud of smoke that looked exactly like a head gasket failure but it was raw fuel. I often see black smoke at startup on an internal engine oil leak but it’s blueish when engine runs but usually it just clear up. Actually I usually blue smoke from worn rings and it’s rhythmic with the engine firing sequence.
But why are the turbos cracking ? As a retired engineer I need to ask WHY 5 times to get to the root cause . I will have to see how the oil goes to the turbo...a separate oil line from engine fuel pump ? What causes the crack ? Bad casting , oil pressure , high temp, no allowance for expansion and contraction ? No need to answer. You got me curious.. thanks !
Yes I wonder the same thing. I have to think it just be some type of heat issue. Maybe a manufacturing flaw with the machining. I was always told that metal cracks develop where there are sharp corners or edges that repeated heating and cooling cycles exploit, and thus the reason performance engine builders always radius (smooth out) all corners and edges on racing engines.
Not really sure how that would happen but surely a design flaw of some type.
Was the turbo leaking from the turbine side to the compressor side? Because i thought the hot side was all exhaust.?
You are my role model!
Hahaha you can probably do better but I do appreciate it!! I’ll keep that in mind on any racy or controversial content lol.
Just started watching. With oil that bad I’d want to drop it and then add new oil.
I was thinking to check the intake for oil too and that it’s likely the turbo.
I’m sure these turbos are a cheaply cast piece that has poor material and quality control.
Strange issue!!!
Is this turbo serviceable?
pretty sure it isn’t. and as much trouble as it would be to replace it I’d put a new one in anyway.
I have a 2012 ram 1500 Hemi P0303 #3 skipping injector good, coil good, spark plugs good, compression good just started checking thats how far i have gotten
Good stuff- wish I could be there!!
Any possibility of the catalytic converter being damaged due to running over a year with that leak?
Every possibility. in fact it’s a probability.
Definitely
AWESOME VIDEO MATT.
thanks as always my friend!!!
@@SchrodingersBox YOU'RE WELCOME MY BROTHER .
Fantastic Diag , can you name the bore scope
It’s called Finder Borescope. Got it on Amazon.
Good video and information 👌
was just wondering this engine run are air fuel ratio on the upstream and does it run a regular O2 Post cat?. I was just observing the voltages.? good video,
also your AUTEL is that a mk 906 ?. i only have an 808. i need more raw data. (PIDS) most frustrating.
As far as I know, ALL cars with an A/F upstream still use traditional O2’s for post cat.
You should have same PIDs on your 808 as I do on my 909. The PIDs should be the same. Maybe you are running it in generic mode?
Turbo drain backed up?
oh that’s a good point. didn’t think to check if the return has flow.
Seen this with diesels before. Massive smoke. Hoses collapse within.
There is sadly not much you can do to further diagnose a vehicle when you have such a major oil consumption problem like this, cause the oil consumption can mask just about any other problems. You could theoretically even have restricted fuel injectors and there is enough oil to nullify the leanness of the fuel. Then, when you change the turbo, suddenly you have lean codes. Tough to justify to a customer for sure. Thankfully, your photographic evidence of the crack in the turbo housing can save you from misunderstandings and blame.
Hey guys I just bypassed my heater core ....temperature gauge is fine but now my 94 2.4 e Nissan truck only gets 8 miles per gallon😢😢😢Any ideas why!!!!
interesting that the oil did not damage the cat.
Agreed. I guess I don’t know how many miles this issue has been going on for.
Customers can be sure that they will get a free wallet flush with every fuel system flush! 😅
The grounds the grounds!😢
PS pull the intake tube and see if it's full of oil
I like the shirt
Awesome isn’t it!!! Gift from a viewer a few years ago.
but why the oil causes a rich condition? does the oil consume oxygen in the combustion process and the O2 detects a rich condition?
It’s because the fumes from the oil displace oxygen that the O2 sensor would otherwise detect.
Whatever happened to the 95 chevy you did a couple of weeks ago, did you ever do a repair video on that?
I believe the video showed the car started after the distributor replacement.
The car is running great and in fact it turns out the owner has a company with about 5 other vehicles with an array of issues he wants me to check out!
great@@SchrodingersBox
👍
Always good to see you George, thanks for the years of support!!
How is this car not smoking like an old tractor?
Why can't we clone people like you? Asking for a bunch a folks.
Hahaha is that bunch of folks cloned? In that case its one person lol!
@@SchrodingersBox 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
dirty oil ==> insufficient turbo oiling??
Isn't it profound that EACH vehicle deserves a bit of 'research' that is simplified [some] by internet.
It is profound indeed. It does seem a lot of vehicles have very specific common issues even for specific years. If you see these vehicles all the time I bet you get a pretty good idea immediately upon seeing it but if you are like me and you've never seen it before, you dont have that advantage. But also researching a vehicle is a bit tough- you will find every vehicle has every problem possible if you research enough!
@@SchrodingersBox I see Ivan does lots of research too to include smart networking fellows. There's got to be a separate estimate line item to RESEARCH.
Yeah I believe Ivan actually has a background in academia- I think he may have a doctorate in some kind of science or something.
SHREWD Schrodingers Box
👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 06:01am Good Morning 🙏 🌄 🌧 more 🌧
Those gdi engines are a joke ,
nissan JOKE
The Juke was the biggest piece of shit Nissan ever made. Total disposable car.
sure seems that way from what little I have seen. owners say this car has had an extensive repair record.
WOW, verbally saying on the internet that you don't normally check oil, you must live in an area where a lawsuit has a zero chance of happening in case of engine failure after being in your possession and a video of zero oil on the dipstick acceptable range, good fodder for the next court case against some innocent mechanic? Nothing against you personally brother, millions of mechanics also do not check the oil and do not annotate the work order of low oil before the job starts out in the parking lot. We are not always there when a car is dropped off to do an acceptance inspection to annotate this fact before the owner signs the RO/Contract. The oil is like tar since the owner does not believe that oil changes are needed since he is forced to add a new quart every 500 miles, does that not equal an oil change? OMG. 650 RPM (what is the spec) and rich and cleans up at higher loads, how is the air filter and MAF if equipped? You say time sitting can be more oil build up in the cylinder, only of the tar is not allowing the oil to drain down out of the head and holds the oil level above the valve guide level, once oil drains down below this level, the only extra oil to leak into the cylinder is what is already in the valve guide and what might be sitting in the valve guide seal and on top of the seal to seep into the guide. So the amount of seepage is always the same unless the head is flooded which would require pulling the valve cover to inspect for poor drainage. Oil burners test to clog up the exhaust a little at first, the tiny honeycomb of the CAT, contaminates the AFR/HO2S. We can see the scenario is not too bad yet with the ECM in fuel control and not yet needed LTFT to level the total trims. Piston Rign blowby with extra Turbo pressure can blow air back toward the air cleaner and contaminate the back side of the filter while to top looks fine on an inspection. Well, intake pipe totally dry, forget the last couple of comments as I follow along...... Nice BOROSCOPE and nice find, bad bearings and seals is a little common and as you can see, this is the outcome, I was not putting a crack near the top of my list of actual problems, thank you for the nice TURBO video. This would have to be more blue smoke than black smoke, maybe the owner does not know the difference. Cleaning all the oil out and getting clean fuel trims might only last for the first clean start, after that, oil will leak in quickly and back to a proven fact of life, needs a turbo, cheers.
I would be cleaning the AFR sensor and the CAT, of course, there is extra labor and some cleaning fluid involved, no need to coke up the CAT IMHO.
I don’t normally SHOW checking oil on the channel. of course I check oil and coolant on every vehicle as a standard procedure to make sure it doesn’t have any unrelated issues that will pop up when I return it.
BAD Turbo.
nissan junk
If they would have used another bottle of head gasket sealer, It would have worked for another couple months, in my experience
Maybe- but with this product you leave it in the coolant. So I don’t see a difference with adding a new bottle and leaving the product in the product is no reactive with the coolant so it should be no different.
I have used a number of these types of products over the years and some of them you are supposed to flush the cooling system after using it, others you leave in, some of them have a warmup and cooldown sequence. I have never seen any of them completely work on a confirmed head gasket issue but many of them seem to work on leaking intake manifold gaskets and other coolant leaks other than cylinder heads. I am convinced this is why so many people believe they work- they aren’t actually fixing head gasket issues.
Hey Matt, I signed up but having big time trouble. Clicked "CONTACT US" several times. CRICKETS...VIds are zoomed in to the max. Hope you see this.
I see it. If videos are zoomed in that would an issue with your video player settings.
You can email me at schrodingers_box@yahoo.com.