You're good people Wade! Glad to see you're gonna help frenchie out! I imagine he's glad too. I can tell by the way you provide this info and passion in these videos that you care. That's a huge win in my book 👍👍
A fluidampr or just a new harmonic balancer is a good way to make sure you aren’t adding to the problem of the 1-2 punch on the end of the crank from firing order.
Have a 2002 HD 2500 6.6 Duramax 896000 km no problems yet pull heavy hay trailers with it daily. Good maintenance regular fuel filter changes and two sets of injectors that's it no tuning runs like a champ have a lot of friends with them never heard of them breaking crankshafts unless they're running a Great Big tune in them. Didn't know it was a common problem guess you learn something new everyday.
Heya! I have got a 2002 lb7. And my crank pins have sheared! I think the shafts good still. But I don't know for sure. It won't start. Still cranked over. I'm being told there's 2 Pins I have to check. I got the harmonic balancer one found. But is there another one behind the front seal?
Have you ever heard of the empire pin kit and if so what do you think of it I have a Lml and like to keep it from Breaking and don’t want to tear the motor down to have a keyway machine
I put one on my truck. No problems. Good little kit. I also added fluidampr balancer, frictional washers before and after the balancer and a special true torq lock washer for the arp bolt.
Not a common problem, but it’s more common than it should be for sure. Don’t waste your money on alternate firing order camshafts, crankshafts have still been broken running alternate fire cams. Only way to fix the problem with certainty is to run a billet, narrowed rod journal crank. That is a surefire way to prevent crank failure at any power level - so far. Up until those hit the market, billet cranks with standard width journals were the aftermarket’s best option. Don’t waste your money on an alternate fire cam and no, LML cranks are not any stronger - they were the go-to for awhile since they were cheaper than 01-10 cranks. Save your money and try your luck with odds in your favor with another stock crank or bite the bullet for a Callies Ultra Billet narrow journal crank.
Agreed, but the $5k billet 1 isn't really needed if you're not running above 1k hp. They also have an upgraded forged 1 for 1/2 the money, that works very well.
P PUMPED 24 VALVE “isnt really needed if youre not running above 1k hp” ... you are watching a video of a Duramax that probably has a stock PCM calibration and a broken crank. Next.
No fluid cushion of a torque converter I thought the same thing. Most are converted from dual mass flywheels to standard, which also takes away the cushion
Hi I’m just wondering what usually needs to be replaced when the crank breaks? My shop is pushing for a replacement long block, but I would rather just replace the crank and bearings if that’s all it is. Any help is appreciated thanks!
All of the failures are different. The block, at bare minimum, needs to be completely checked. At that point, you will need to replace all bearings, rings, etc. When looking at the cost of doing so, and what warranties you receive, doing a long block may be cheaper.
I have a 2021 duramax not missing but engine at low idle or low ram has a slight shake you feel setting at a light or just parked. Note it is not all the time. GM SAID THEY PUT SCANNER ON IT AND ALL IS GOOD MY 19 DID NOT DO THIS ANY HELP
Might look at injector balance rates if it’s a higher mileage truck. Anything is possible with mileage but as we showed here, its easy to identify if you have access to the harmonic balancer.
I have a 2015 Sierra 3500hd w/ the 6.6L. I replaced the crankshaft seal behind the harmonic balancer, replaced the bolt, torqued it to 74ftlbs and then added 90 degrees. A few seconds after starting it up the bolt backs off. What am I doing wrong?
so you think just changing the crankshaft on a low miles LMM is not worth the risk i have one with 80k miles and broken crank thinking on just replace it
I've had 3 broken duramax crankshafts on the rear rod journal. all stock fueling. Its because of the counter bore hole drilled end ways into the rod journal from both sides - for less weight. They cheaped out here! The new aftermarket cranks don't have it like this. Japanese engineering at its best!
i have a 2007 van with the lmm the crank broke on it it only has 18k miles on it you could hear sometimes it would knock but then it would spin over and sound fine i never got it started fooled with it along time and found out it was the crank i aint got it out yet but will take some pics i am thinking the crank is broke in the front and rear
Hello happy Thanksgiving, i got a 2009 Sierra, the truck has about 140k, it start having i knock not really noticeable and power was limited, i took it for a spin and tried to push a bit, as soon as i hit the gas pedal kinda hard the knock became worst it became more then 1 cylinder and engine run like crap with a lot of noise then died, it does crank bot wont start, any ideas what that could be, thanks
Hello.. my name is carlos.. i have a lb7 motor wich broke down the other day.. i took off the valve cover and the pushrods was bend .. i order a set of pushrods xdt street , and did new headgasket and aro stud all that.. when i assembly the engine back and i put the rockers my engine won't turn and when i loose all the way the rockers it will. I make sure everything is seating good and everything i dont have idea what happening. I loose the adjustment of the valve and open all the way to see amd won't turn . You guys have any idea?
My crank shaft just broke and I’m no mechanic what’s the best way to go about fixing this with no money, should I buy a rebuilt engine or just buy a block or what can I do ? Thank you
I have an 08 lmm dmax just shy of 300k miles with a mild tow tune on and rarely sees 2700 rpm basically I don't beat on the motor at all I gues driving habits has alot to do with crankshaft breaking
@@paulwheatley9402 it's pretty rare. Main thing for yours is to keep your cp4 fuel pump happy. Dont run it low on fuel, get fuel from trusted place, keep fuel filters good...
You're good people Wade! Glad to see you're gonna help frenchie out! I imagine he's glad too. I can tell by the way you provide this info and passion in these videos that you care. That's a huge win in my book 👍👍
Thanks! We will get him right.
Never heard of a Cummins breaking a crank shaft!
Other than describing a broken crankshaft issue as running poorly, what other symptoms would that problem display?
do you feel a fluid dampener would help prevent this? also did you ever make the following videos?
A fluidampr or just a new harmonic balancer is a good way to make sure you aren’t adding to the problem of the 1-2 punch on the end of the crank from firing order.
Have a 2002 HD 2500 6.6 Duramax 896000 km no problems yet pull heavy hay trailers with it daily. Good maintenance regular fuel filter changes and two sets of injectors that's it no tuning runs like a champ have a lot of friends with them never heard of them breaking crankshafts unless they're running a Great Big tune in them. Didn't know it was a common problem guess you learn something new everyday.
2 that I fixed were stock lb7 and lly 250k mi. and 165k mi. Some people have had it happen at 50k mi.
Awesome,taking care of your own. I love it. Great video.
Heya! I have got a 2002 lb7. And my crank pins have sheared! I think the shafts good still. But I don't know for sure. It won't start. Still cranked over. I'm being told there's 2 Pins I have to check. I got the harmonic balancer one found. But is there another one behind the front seal?
There is only the one on the harmonic balancer that is of concern, and there is one on the camshaft that is of concern too.
Please video the build, I’d love to watch. I’m doing a head gasket job on my lb7 soon, thanks.
Have you ever heard of the empire pin kit and if so what do you think of it I have a Lml and like to keep it from Breaking and don’t want to tear the motor down to have a keyway machine
I put one on my truck. No problems. Good little kit. I also added fluidampr balancer, frictional washers before and after the balancer and a special true torq lock washer for the arp bolt.
Not a common problem, but it’s more common than it should be for sure. Don’t waste your money on alternate firing order camshafts, crankshafts have still been broken running alternate fire cams. Only way to fix the problem with certainty is to run a billet, narrowed rod journal crank. That is a surefire way to prevent crank failure at any power level - so far. Up until those hit the market, billet cranks with standard width journals were the aftermarket’s best option. Don’t waste your money on an alternate fire cam and no, LML cranks are not any stronger - they were the go-to for awhile since they were cheaper than 01-10 cranks. Save your money and try your luck with odds in your favor with another stock crank or bite the bullet for a Callies Ultra Billet narrow journal crank.
Agreed, but the $5k billet 1 isn't really needed if you're not running above 1k hp. They also have an upgraded forged 1 for 1/2 the money, that works very well.
P PUMPED 24 VALVE “isnt really needed if youre not running above 1k hp” ... you are watching a video of a Duramax that probably has a stock PCM calibration and a broken crank. Next.
I am looking to get a Dodge Ram 3500 with a 6.7. As I see you working on that engine. The question is. What pickups do you like. “Why”
Looking for some info on the cat filter oil and fuel good or bad
I find it interesting, most of the older duramax engines with broken cranks have a ZF6
No fluid cushion of a torque converter I thought the same thing. Most are converted from dual mass flywheels to standard, which also takes away the cushion
What years/gen is this most common with?
Seems to be a thing in all years except the L5P’s.
jB weld it good to go
Hi I’m just wondering what usually needs to be replaced when the crank breaks? My shop is pushing for a replacement long block, but I would rather just replace the crank and bearings if that’s all it is. Any help is appreciated thanks!
All of the failures are different. The block, at bare minimum, needs to be completely checked. At that point, you will need to replace all bearings, rings, etc. When looking at the cost of doing so, and what warranties you receive, doing a long block may be cheaper.
Not the first time I see this from Chevy
I have a 2021 duramax not missing but engine at low idle or low ram has a slight shake you feel setting at a light or just parked. Note it is not all the time. GM SAID THEY PUT SCANNER ON IT AND ALL IS GOOD MY 19 DID NOT DO THIS ANY HELP
Might look at injector balance rates if it’s a higher mileage truck. Anything is possible with mileage but as we showed here, its easy to identify if you have access to the harmonic balancer.
I have a 2015 Sierra 3500hd w/ the 6.6L. I replaced the crankshaft seal behind the harmonic balancer, replaced the bolt, torqued it to 74ftlbs and then added 90 degrees. A few seconds after starting it up the bolt backs off. What am I doing wrong?
Are the threads in the crank damaged? Is there a vibration in the crank that is taking out the seal? Is the harmonic balancer damaged?
so you think just changing the crankshaft on a low miles LMM is not worth the risk i have one with 80k miles and broken crank thinking on just replace it
Man that would be a tough pill to swallow. And a expensive one
I've had 3 broken duramax crankshafts on the rear rod journal. all stock fueling. Its because of the counter bore hole drilled end ways into the rod journal from both sides - for less weight. They cheaped out here! The new aftermarket cranks don't have it like this. Japanese engineering at its best!
@@repairvehicle I have seen it from 2000 all the way to 2016. They used basically the same crankshaft design all those years.
@@ppump24valve53how much is for that repair ? What u think about the new 3.0 Duramax?? Is good ?
i have a 2007 van with the lmm the crank broke on it it only has 18k miles on it you could hear sometimes it would knock but then it would spin over and sound fine i never got it started fooled with it along time and found out it was the crank i aint got it out yet but will take some pics i am thinking the crank is broke in the front and rear
Hello happy Thanksgiving, i got a 2009 Sierra, the truck has about 140k, it start having i knock not really noticeable and power was limited, i took it for a spin and tried to push a bit, as soon as i hit the gas pedal kinda hard the knock became worst it became more then 1 cylinder and engine run like crap with a lot of noise then died, it does crank bot wont start, any ideas what that could be, thanks
Hello.. my name is carlos.. i have a lb7 motor wich broke down the other day.. i took off the valve cover and the pushrods was bend .. i order a set of pushrods xdt street , and did new headgasket and aro stud all that.. when i assembly the engine back and i put the rockers my engine won't turn and when i loose all the way the rockers it will. I make sure everything is seating good and everything i dont have idea what happening. I loose the adjustment of the valve and open all the way to see amd won't turn . You guys have any idea?
My lml runs fine but throwing p0008f engine positions performance bank 1
I'm guessing y'all never videoed the rebuild process. Well I can't seem to find it anyhow. That's a bummer.
Did you just compare the 6.2 Detroit to an import diesel?
Yeah old GM diesels are completely unrelated, besides engine configuration.
You guys are good people!
Not started on the build yet
My crank shaft just broke and I’m no mechanic what’s the best way to go about fixing this with no money, should I buy a rebuilt engine or just buy a block or what can I do ? Thank you
What is your engine?
I have an 08 lmm dmax just shy of 300k miles with a mild tow tune on and rarely sees 2700 rpm basically I don't beat on the motor at all I gues driving habits has alot to do with crankshaft breaking
my truck died driving down the road at 60mph now makes a loud knocking noise won't start and p0336 code pops up...is it my crank?
So a dmax is a pos? Broken cranks. Cheap crank damper pin, head gaskets, injectors? Rods bending? Or is it just tuned trucks?
Need some help!
Mine just broke (lb7) 😢😢😢
I got a 2011 durmax 6.6 lml I need a crank kit ,who have them in stock
I think the salt-fire mod has been preoven to help none.
Does this happen on a 2016 duramax
Yes
All of em
Ok thanks this is my first Duramax
@@paulwheatley9402 it's pretty rare. Main thing for yours is to keep your cp4 fuel pump happy. Dont run it low on fuel, get fuel from trusted place, keep fuel filters good...
It will happen before 200,000 miles
My crank just broke had an injector knock that turned into carnage
Those small bumps they use is pathetic especially on a high torque diesel gasoline engines aren’t built that poorly
Had it happen on a stock 2011 at 135k miles. The dealer wanted 20k to put a long block in it.
Sorry to hear that, but there's a reason I don't own a duramax- Expensive to work on, and expensive when they break!
@@ppump24valve53 luckily I got the dealership to cover it under warranty.
hi get er fixed
That's riiiggghhhtttt!
Did he just meow?
Meow why would I do that?
Hmm blow 6.0 psd head gaskets or broke 6.6 Dbagmax crankshaft 🤣
Typical Isuzu
And Chevy lovers still swear by the Duramax piece of crap
That’s why you buy ford